Acetamide MEA - Water soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and

nonanionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants compatible only with

cationics, adds shine.
Alcohol - A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH hydro!yl"
group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble
sol#ents li$e isopropyl rubbing" alcohol, ethyl alcohol used by breweries, the only
drin$able alcohol" through moisturi%ing agents li$e glycerine or propylene glycol to
fatty alcohols li$e cetyl alcohol and sugars multi alcohols".
Algae E!tract - E!tracted from seaweed and pondscum, rich in minerals, algae
e!tract is claimed to pre#ent wrin$les, #ery moisturi%ing.
Algal &olysaccharides - E!tract from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian
coast $nown for its moisturi%ing potential and lubricity.
Allantoin - Water soluble crystal $nown for its ability to help heal wounds and s$in
ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.
AM& Aminoethyl &ropanol" - An organic pH ad'uster used to ma!imi%e the effects
of styling products.
Ammonium (auryl )ulfate - *he ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate deri#ed from the
natural coconut alcohols, it is a mild anionic surfactant widely used at acidic mild"
pH #alues.
Amphoteric )urfactants - *hose in which the acti#e molecule bears both positi#e
and negati#e charges. *heir properties depend upon th pH of the system and they
may beha#e li$e anionics or cationics. )ome of the finest amphoterics are used in
shampoo systems formulated for dry or chemically treated hair due to their
mildness and light conditioning properties.
Annatto E!tract - A food grade #egetable dye from a tropical tree, yellow to orange.
Annionic )urfactants - *hose in which the acti#e molecule bears a negati#e electric
charge. *hese surfactants are primarily used as cleansing agents in relati#ely mild
shampoos for oily or normal to oily hair
+eet E!tract - E!tract from the stem base of the beet used for its reddish color.
+en%ophenone - , and - - A sunscreen that bloc$s ./ - A rays.
+eta 0arotene - 1ound in all plant and many animal tissues, beta carotene is
e!tracted as red crystals or crystalline powder, used as coloring in cosmetics. Also
used in the manufacture of /itamin A. .sed also as antio!idant.
+iotin - A naturally occurring #itamin H. )ome studies show that it has a positi#e
effect on hair growth when ta$en internally.
+oric Acid - An inorganic acid and mild antiseptic, and preser#ati#e.
+utylene 2lycol - Organic humectant similar to propylene glycol.
0aramel - .sed as a coloring in cosmetics and a soothing agent in lotions. &roduced
by heating sugar or glucose and adding small amounts of al$ali or a trace mineral
acid during heating.
0arbomer 3-4 - An organic gelling agent.
0arrageenan - 5atural thic$ening agent.
0ationic )urfactants - *hose in which the acti#e molecule bears a positi#e charge.
*hese sufactants usually ha#e strong conditioning properties and are used in
conditioners, moisturi%ing treatments and pa$s. 0ationics often ha#e antimicrobial
properties germicides".
0eteareth - 6 - An emollient and emulsifier. )ee 0etyl Alcohol.
0etearyl Alcohol - A mi!ture of fatty alcohols deri#ed from coconut oil consisting
predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. .sed as emollients, thic$eners and
emulsion stabili%ers.
0eteth - 7 - A polyethylene glycol deri#ati#e of cetyl alcohol. Water soluble.
Emollient and conditioning agent and emulsifier.
0eteth - 74 - )ee ceteth - 7.
0etrimonium +romide - A cationic conditioning agent and antiseptic widely used in
the pharmaceutical industry. 8ue to its high cost, it is rarely used in cosmetics.
Adds shine.
0etrimonium 0hloride - 9uaternary conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium
bromide, but more suitable for water systems.
0etyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol deri#ed from coconut oil widely used as an
emollient and stabili%ing agent in conditioning and moisturi%ing treatments
emulsions".
0etyldimonium 0hloride - .sed often as a conditioning agent, compatible with
sufactants, often used in shampoos.
0hloro!ylenol - A crystalline, water soluble substance used as an antiseptic,
germicide and fungicide. &enetrates s$in. 5o $nown to!icity in humans when
diluted below 74:.
0itric Acid - A natural, edible organic acid used to ad'ust pH, one of the natural
hydro!y acids deri#ed from citrus fruits.
0itric Acid .)& - see 0itric Acid"
0ocamide 8EA - )hampoo thic$ener and foam stabili%er deri#ed from coconut fatty
acids. Also assists in remo#al of fatty soils.
0ocamide MEA see 0ocamide 8EA" - Mono - amide MEA" as opposed to diamide
8EA".
0ocamidopropyl +etaine - An amphoteric surfactant used as a cleanser. ;nown for
its mild conditioning properties. 8eri#ed from coconut fatty acids.
0oco +etaine - see 0ocamidopropyl +etaine"
0yclomethicone - A silicone deri#ati#e. Adds luster and sheen.
8EA Oleth - , &hosphate - An emulsifier that pre#ents separation of product. Adds
shine.
8EA Oleth - <4 &hosphate - An emulsifier deri#ed from oleic acid, an unsaturated
fatty acid.
8eioni%ed Water - Water purified by deioni%ation technique based on remo#al of
highly acti#e ions especially positi#ely charged cations li$e calcium 0a=="
magnesiumM2==" and iron 1e==" and 1e===".
8ia%olidinyl - A cosmetic preser#ati#e.
8icetyldimonium 0hloride - see 0etyldimonium 0hloride"
8imethicone - A silicone deri#ati#e. Adds luster and sheen.
8imethicone 0opolyol - )ame as abo#e and is water soluble.
8imethyl (auramine >sostearate - 0onditioning and emulsifying agent.
8imethyl )tearamine - 0onditioning and emulsifying agent.
E8*A Ethylene 8iamine *etra Acetic Acid" - A sequestering chelating" agent with
unique properties of ?neutrali%ing? trace metals li$e calcium, iron and magnesium
salts, etc." and other deposits on hair.
Ethyl Ester &/M@MA 0opolymer - Humidity resistant, non - tac$y polymer.
Etho!ydiglycol - /iscosity decreasing agent.
Essential Oils - .sed for fragrance, as an antiseptic, germicide and a natural
preser#ati#e. 8eri#ed from natural plant oil.
2lyceryl Monstearate - An emollient, emulsifier deri#ed from natural stearic acid
and glycerine.
2lyceryl )tearate - An emulsifier.
2lycolic Acid - 8eri#ed from sugar cane 'uice, used to ad'ust pH in products and as
an e!foliant and moisturi%er.
2lycol )tearate - )ee 2lyceryl Monostearate.
2rapes$in E!tract - *he e!tract of the pulp of /itis /inifera, used as a coloring.
2reen *ea E!tract - A natural e!tract of Aapanese green tea that has antio!idant
and antibacterial properties.
2uar Hydro!ypropyltrimonium 0hloride - 5aturally deri#ed from 2uar tree, cationic
conditioning agent used frequently in shampoos.
Hyaluronic Acid - >t is the most effecti#e moisturi%ing agent $nown to science
today. >t holds 644 times its own weight of water. *his spectacular humectant is
deri#ed by bacterial fermentation. >t is effecti#e in concentrations as low as 74 ppm
parts per million".
Hydroly%ed Human Hair ;eratin &rotein - &rotein deri#ed from human hair by
en%ymatic@acidic hydroly%ation.
Hydro!yethel 0ellulose - .sed as a thic$ener in creams and lotions.
Hydro!ypropyl Methylcellulose - 1ibrous substance deri#ed from the chief part of
the cell walls of plants. .sed as thic$ener and to gi#e products uniform consistency
and body.
>sobutane - 5aturally occurring gas.
>sopropanol - An organic sol#ent of alcohol family. .sed to solubili%e resins and
polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissol#e the o!idation dyes.
>sopropyl Alcohol >sopropanol" - An organic sol#ent of the alcohol family. .sed to
solubili%e resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissol#e the o!idation
dyes.
>sopropyl &almitate - An ester of palmitic acid from coconut oil used to impart
sil$iness to the s$in and hair.
Ao'oba Oil - &artially unsaturated Ao'oba Oil deri#ed directly from the 'o'oba bean.
.nbleached and chemically unchanged, it is used as a lubricant and sebum
emulsifier.
(actamide MEA - see Acetamide MEA"
(actic Acid - A natural, mild organic acid prepared by fermentation. 5ormally
present in blood, sour mil$, sauer$raut, pic$les, and other food products made by
bacterial fermentation. .sed in cosmetics to ad'ust acid@al$ali balance. (actic acid is
a primary component in the s$inBs natural buffer system.
(aureth - , - >t is the polyethylene glycol ether of (auryl Alcohol, principal alcohol
of coconut oil. >tBs modified to gi#e it a ?water lo#ing? character. .sed as an
emollient and emulsifier.
(ecithin - 1rom the 2ree$ meaning ?egg yol$?. 5atural antio!idant, emollient and
emulsifier used in a #ariety of cosmetics. Egg yol$ is C - 3: lecithin.
(ineolamido &ropyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate - Antistatic and hair conditioning
agent
Magnesium 0itrate - Magnesium salt of citric acid.
Methacryloyl Ethyl +etaine Methacrylates 0opolymer - &art of cationic system. A
fi!ati#e that is water soluble if washed within -C hours after application. .sed for
stiffness and high gloss in hairsprays.
Methylchloroisthia%olinone - A preser#ati#e used in shampoos to replace
formaldehyde.
Methylisothia%olinone - .sed with abo#e as a preser#ati#e in shampoos to replace
formaldehyde.
Methyl &araben - &reser#ati#e deri#ed from ben%oic acid. .sually used in emulsions
in con'unction with propyl paraben. >tBs non - to!ic and appro#ed for use in foods. >t
is effecti#e against a wide range of bacteria and fungi. 0ontrary to popular belief, it
is not a wa!. Decommended concentration in cosmetics 4.7 - 4.,:.
Myristal$onium 0hloride - 8eri#ed from fatty acids, it has anti - static and
moisturi%ing properties.
5iacinamide - Mild scalp stimulant with /itamin +. Also used as a synergi%ing agent.
5onionic )urfactants - *hose in which the acti#e molecule has no electric charge.
*heir properties #ary widely, from #ery harsh cleansers often found in commercial
shampoos and rug cleaners" to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams
and rinses.
5ono!ynol <7 - .sed as a non ionic surface acti#e agent and as a dispersing agent.
O - 0resol - White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.
Octylacrylamide Acrylate +utylaminoethyl Methacrylate 0opolymer - &art of cationic
system. A fi!ati#e that is water soluble if washed within -C hours after application.
.sed for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.
Octylacrylamide +utylaminoethyl Methacrylate 0opolymer - see Octylacrylamide
Acrylate +utylaminoethyl Methacrylate 0opolymer"
Octyl Metho!ycinnamate - A sunscreen that bloc$s ./ - + rays that is deri#ed from
cinnamic acid.
Oleth 74 - Organic perfume stabili%er, deri#ed from unsaturated fatty acids.
Orange &eel E!tract - E!tract from ?green? #ariety of oranges, #ery rich in natural
elements. .sed for color.
&alm ;ernelamide 8EA and MEA - A mi!ture of ethanolamides of the fatty acids
deri#ed from palm $ernel oil. .sed as a conditioning agent and thic$ener for
shampoos.
&anthenol - Member of the /itamin + comple! family used as a hair thic$ener and
conditioning agent. 8uring o!idation, it is con#erted to /itamin + - 6 pantheonic
acid".
&E2 - <44 )tearate - An emulsifier.
&entacrythritol *etra 0aprate@0aprylate - Emulsifier deri#ed from caprylic acid.
/egetable source.
&henyl *rimethicone - Water resistant silicone, adds shine and fle!ibility.
&olyquaternium << - A fi!ati#e with anti - bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen
in styling tools.
&olysorbate 74 - A #iscous, oily, water soluble liquid used to stabili%e perfumes in
water based preparations li$e shampoos, etc."
&olysorbate C4 - A #iscous liquid used to emulsify oils.
&otassium )orbate - A mild food grade preser#ati#e found in cheese, wine, etc.
&&2 7 >sodeceth <7 - An organic solubili!er of perfume oils and emulsifier.
&ristane - - A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils
&ropane - A natural propellant.
&ropyl &araben - A food grade preser#ati#e - see Methyl &araben. >t is often
confused with paraffin.
&ropylene 2lycol 8icocoate - A mi!ture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty
acids. Aids in remo#ing unwanted ?build - up? from hair.
&/M@MA 0opolymer - A water soluble fi!ati#e used in hairsprays and styling tools.
&/&@/A 0opolymer - A water soluble fi!ati#e used in hairsprays.
&yro!idine H0( - /itamin +E used as a te!turi%er.
9uaternium <6 - A water soluble anti microbial agent acti#e against bacteria.
)alicylic Acid - +road spectrum antibacterial and fungicidal agent. .sed e!ternally
as an antimicrobial@anti - acne agent and in anti - dandruff shampoos as the acti#e
agent. >t is found in nature in se#eral plants, notably in sweet birch bar$ and
wintergreen lea#es commercial sources are synthetic".
)8 -4 Alcohol - Often listed as )8A-4. >t belongs to the alcohol family and is the
only drin$able one specially denatured by adding bittering agents to ma$e it not
suitable for human consumption. >t is used primarily in hair spray as a resin
sol#ent.
)8 Alcohol -4+ - )ame as abo#e with different denaturants
)hea +utter - *he natural fat obtained from the fruit of the ;arite tree. .sed as a
replacement for lanolin.
)odium 0etyl )ulfate - A deri#ati#e of saturated fatty alcohol. Water soluble.
)odium Hydro!ymethylglycinate - An organic preser#ati#e deri#ed from the amino
acid glycine.
)odium (aureth )ulfate - A deri#ati#e of polyethylene glycol and lauryl alcohol. >t is
much milder than sodium lauryl sulfate. >t is also recommended for use in
con'unction with other surfactants.
)odium Myristoyl )arcosinate - /ery mild amphoteric surfactant. E!cellent, #ery
mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.
)odium &0A - A powerful humectant moisturi%ing agent". *his natural moisturi%er
is found in stratum corneum and is part of the natural Moisturi%ing 1actor of s$in.
)odium *hiosulfate - An inorganic salt, #ery reacti#e. .sed to neutrali%e chlorine
and other halogens.
)orbitol - Humectant, moisturi%ing agent and lubricant. >t has similar properties to
glycerin but is more compatible to hair.
)tearal$onium 0hloride - 0ationic surfactant that has e!cellent substanti#ity to
hairBs $eratin protein. Deduces static electricity by neutrali%ing electrical charges on
hair. 2ood conditioning agent.
)tearamidopropyl 8imethyamine - A water soluble deri#ati#e of stearic acid.
&ossesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles o#er a wide range of pH.
)teareth 7< - *he polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. *he number
indicates the degree of liquidity from - thin" to <44 solid". An emulsifier.
)tearic Acid - An organic fatty acid used as the basic ingredient to create O@W oil
in water" emulsions in con'unction with *EA. *hese emulsions are water soluble
with good penetrating properties.
)tearyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol, #ery similar to cetyl alcohol. see cetyl
alcohol" 8eri#ed from coconut oil.
)urfactant - )urface agents that ha#e many cosmetic uses. 1or e!ample, cleansers,
wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubi%ers, conditioning agents and foam stabili%ers.
*EA (aureth )ulfate - A triethanolamine salt of etho!ylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic
surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A #ery effecti#e, yet #ery mild, cleansing
agent.
*EA (auryl )ulfate - similar to *EA (aureth )ulfate"
*etrasodium E8*A - )ame as sodium E8*A or 5a - E8*A. >tBs a chelating agent
sequestrant" that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard
water and ?ma$es? them water soluble. Deduces build - up.
*riethanolamine *EA" - An al$anomine used as part of an emulsion system in
con'unction with organic acids li$e stearic acid. Also ser#es as a softener in hair
spray.
*riethyl 0itrate - 8eri#ed from citric acid. >t gi#es pliability to fi!ati#es.
*yrosine - A building bloc$ of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color
adheres to.
/inyl Acetate 0rotonic Acid 5eodecanate 0opolymer - Hairspray fi!ati#e
Fanthan 2um - A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thic$ener.
HED+A( 2(O))ADG
Alfalfa - High in #itamin ;, A, 8 and minerals. 2ood for conditioning and
strengthening the hair.
Althea Doot - Originally used to pro#ide marshmallow with its pillowy consistency.
Althea is an e!tract that softens and soothes.
Apricot - A s$in softener and toner, apricot acts as a brilliantine adding sheen
without an oily film.
+irch +ar$ - American >ndians used birch bar$ e!tensi#ely for many purposes, it
acts as a tonic, refreshes the s$in and has anti - inflammatory qualities.
+ladderwrac$ - +eneficial to scalp.
+orage - An emollient herb that has a cooling and soothing effect, allaying
irritation.
0hamomile - A daisy - li$e plant. E!tract from its white and yellow heads impart
luster. An essential source of #ital minerals for hair.
0innamon +ar$ - One of the spices that spurred world e!ploration, cinnamon bar$
is a natural astringent $nown to suspend e!cess oil on oily s$in or scalp.
0lo#e - An antiseptic, fla#oring and stimulant. >t is up to C6: eugenol - regarded
as an e!cellent water absorber.
0lo#er +lossom - +eneficial in the treatment of acne.
0oltsfoot - A healing herb with emollient properties that is soothing to the scalp.
0omfrey Doot - 0omfrey Doot e!tract is rich in allantoin, $nown for its ability to
heal wounds and stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.
Eucalyptus - Antiseptic, cooling and stimulating, eucalyptus oil has blood
stimulation properties, beneficial for the treatment of hair loss.
Horsetail - +eneficial for the treatment of acne, horsetail has a high silica content
pro#iding te!ture.
(a#ender - >ts name deri#ed from the (atin #erb ?to wash? la#ender is a rela!ing,
cleansing herb that is also a circulation stimulant.
(emongrass - .sed for sheen and cleansing. Also used as an elastici%er in
hairsprays.
(ichen E!tract - Highly concentrated e!tract of alpine linchen usnea barbata". >t is
a bactericide, fungicide and is also effecti#e against yeast. .sed in deodorants, foot
care products, mouth hygiene, and antimicrobial washes.
Matricaria - Also $nown as 0hamomile
5ettle - Dich in minerals and plant hormones, nettle e!tract is cleansing and
astringent. .sed in fol$ medicine to stimulate hair growth, it also acts as a
glossifier.
Oat - E!tract of oat has cleansing and soothing properties.
Orange 1lower - .sed for emmoliency and to impart luster.
&arsley - >nfusions of parsley are $nown to be cleansing and soothing also ha#ing
high #itamin and mineral content.
&eppermint - Emolient herb that is astringent, stimulating, cleansing, restorati#e
and healing.
Daspberry - )timulating and astringent.
Dose - Dose water has been used as early as the tenth century for its cleansing and
astringent benefits.
Dosemary - /ery rich in natural minerals, rosemary is soothing, cleansing,
stimulating and astringent. >t also brightens and adds high gloss to the hair.
)afflower - )afflower oil is an unsaturated #egetable oil deri#ed from safflower. >t is
used for its moisturi%ing and softening properties.
)age - 0alming, cleansing, soothing and astringent, sage was associated with
longe#ity in ancient times.
)lippery Elm - .sed for its emollient properties.
)weet Almond Oil - A natural ?non - oily? oil that adds sheen.
*hyme - A calming cleanser, thyme tones and refreshes while also ha#ing antiseptic
benefits.
Wheat 2erm Oil - An oily e!tract from wheat germ that is #ery rich in natural
#itamin E.
Witch Ha%el - .sed as an astringent, and an aid in setting hair.
Garrow - An e!tract for cleansing and astringency.