Amsterdam

Spring 2014
Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

inyourpocket.com
N12 - FREE COPY
Amsterdam
Day Trips
Zandvoort, Keukenhof
and other destinations
Noord
Explore the other side of
the River IJ
Spring 2014 3 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Foreword 4
A few words from the editor
Arrival & Getting Around 5
How to get to and from your hotel
Amsterdam Basics 8
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
Culture & Events 10
Concerts, festivals and events
Centrum 12
Canals, cafs & the Plantage
Nieuw-West 34
Lakes, parks and modern architecture
Noord 36
Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design
Oost 46
Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhood
West 48
Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek
Zuid 50
De Pijp and some of the citys best museums
Zuidoost 52
Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax
Gay Amsterdam 54
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
Cofeeshops 56
Where to smoke responsibly
Lifestyle Directory 60
Spas, doctors and other useful information
List of small features
Uitsmijter: a classic dish 18
Red Light streets 20
A farewell to pints 23
The 1st Kings Day 29
Birthplace of Ajax 39
Oldest gay bar 55
Higher education 57
Football matches 60
Amsterdam souvenirs 61
Dutch highlights & Day trips 63
Maps & Index
Centrum: old centre map 31
Centrum: city centre map 32
Noord map 44
Netherlands map 66
Venue index 67
Here are just a few things you can do on the other side of the river
in Amsterdam Noord. Take a small river cruise on a boat that oers
an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some cycling in the pristine
countryside, bring a towel and swim trunks and take a dip at one of
the areas swimming pools or visit a festival and see why Noord has
become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdams creative community.
Read more on p.36. Photo courtesy of Amsterdam Noord
If youre looking for a day trip from Amsterdam or perhaps a journey
farther aeld, we have a few suggestions. Hit the beach at Zand-
voort (p.64), look at windmills at Zaanse Schans, visit Hollands fa-
mous tulip elds at the Keukenhof, see how Delftware is made or
visit the charming towns of Haarlem and Volendam. More options
on p.63. Photo courtesy of the Zandvoort Tourist Information Centre
4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
The birds are chirping, the trees have taken on a bright
green hue and the Dutch are already lounging about on
terraces that seem to have sprung up from nowhere. It
must be spring in Amsterdam. Soon enough the city will
be inundated with tourists from around the globe search-
ing for souvenirs and picture perfect snapshots of this fa-
mous citys UNESCO protected canals. This, of course, is all
part and parcel of a trip to this unique metropolis, but we
hope that you nd the courage to venture o beyond the
Grachtengordel or ring of canals, because some of Amster-
dams best treasures can be found in areas that are men-
tioned in standard guide books. Discover the entire city
within these pages or take a day trip to some of the most
spectacular sights The Netherlands has to oer (see p.63). If
youre here at the end of April you should pack something
orange as the nations rst Kings Day will be celebrated
with gusto this year (see p.29). No matter what you choose
to do, we hope that youll nd this guide indispensable.
COVER STORY
Each year for one weekend eve-
ryones invited to take a look at
Amsterdams private gardens
that are usually closed to the
public or only available for a fee.
From June 20 - 22, Museum Van
Loon will organise Open Garden
Day, which allows you to view
what lies beyond the medieval
faades of the citys famous ca-
nal houses. This issues cover photo gives you a sneak
preview of some great gardens in the city centre.
Publisher
In Your Pocket Netherlands
Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands
ISSN 2211-2480
Company Oce & Accounts
Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com,
www.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Research Theo Leerintveld
Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy
of Amsterdam city governments, Amsterdam Marketing and
various concert organisers.
Cover Museum Van Loon
Sales & Circulation
Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com
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Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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ABOUT IYP
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Arriving & Getting Around
Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
BY PLANE
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than
10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest
airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers
each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly ecient.
Youll nd your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and
luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear
customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essen-
tially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre
and part food court. Although located under one roof, the
building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4.
Just walk straight to the main hall to nd most services that
you might need including transportation to the city. An of-
cial tourist information centre is available in terminal
2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are
available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers
cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins.
You can also leave your bags at the storage oce for the
same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small
bank of lockers is also available on the ground oor be-
tween terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems
getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to
the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and
youll nd a Travel Taxi oce. Buses and hotel shut-
tles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight
through the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside
with the names of the citys biggest hotels that operate
their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which
is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue
Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle
that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned
route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A
single ticket costs 15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half
price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible that it can be ar-
ranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in
the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of
other destinations in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter-
minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes
for only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to nd a list of
train departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you
can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines
with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on
the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single,
destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and
the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment,
insert your credit card, enter your PIN, conrm the price
and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the
Central Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train
tickets at the Train Tickets & Services oce but youll pay
an extra 0.50.
BY TRAIN
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achieve-
ment in its own right, it was later criticised by urban plan-
ners for having cut o the city of canals from its most es-
sential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many
of the citys historic cafs were aorded an impressive vista
of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. To-
day, the massive edice and its surroundings are a bit of
a mess as the station is being renovated and retrotted to
accommodate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk
downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands,
kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex
(www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 -
22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available
near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and
4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to plat-
form 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger
King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas
(1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information we recommend you exit
the building on the city centre side and walk across the
street to the ocial tourist information centre (see Tourist
information). Lockers for luggage storage are located
on the far east side of the station, but it might take a while
to nd an empty locker and even more time to gure out
how to use one. You can
only pay with a credit card.
Place your belongings in a
locker and close the door.
Find the nearest keypad
that corresponds with
the numbered section of
lockers you have chosen.
Conrm that the locker
number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then
swipe your credit card. Just
stick it in the slot and pull
it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be ed. When you want to remove your luggage
just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker
will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town
and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys
best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here,
but if youre staying in another section of town such as the
Museum District you can take one of the many trams out-
side. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate
the card for you, but you have to place it up against one
of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on
using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be
worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station and
walk across the street to the GVB oce (open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to the left of tourist information to
buy tickets. Free ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available
on the north side of the station on the River IJ.
Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driv-
ing within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the pre-
ferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the
only way to truly experience the city.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation
company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus
service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows
you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains
using just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard op-
tions and you can upload them with travel credits at spe-
cial machines located at stations and even in most super-
markets. You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96,
120, 144 and 168 hours, which aord you unlimited travel
on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an eco-
nomical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can
be purchased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors,
but a premium is charged for this ticket. It costs 2.70 for
one hour of unlimited travel on dierent buses and trains in
the city that begins once you board your selected mode of
transportation and check in by placing it next to the scan-
ners near the doors. You must also scan your card when
leaving the vehicle.
BICYCLE RENTAL
All told, Amsterdam commuters cycle more than
2,000,000km every day, but bear in mind that around
40,000 bikes are stolen annually. Amsterdam also has
plenty of places to park your bike for free, but be sure to
remember where you left it.
BLACK BIKES
A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has the
longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht
282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefetsenplan.
nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat
88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49;
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA
MAC BIKE
For more than two decades Mac Bike has been been
renting bikes to Amsterdams tourists and with four loca-
tions around town, its handy too. It also sells and repairs
bicycles and oers tours of the city. For 2 euros you can
also buy an art-based map. The goal of the map is to oer
a few hours of an enjoyable bike ride in an insightful and
appealing way.QH-5, Waterlooplein 199, tel. (+31) 204
28 70 05, www.macbike.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:45. Also at
F/G-3, Stationsplein 5; F-8, Weteringschans 2; D-8, Mar-
nixstraat 220.
RECYCLED RENTALS
This company claims to have the cheapest bike rental
in town and at only 5/day, it might be right.QA-2,
Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654 68 14 29, rentals@
recycledrentals.com, www.recycledrentals.com.
RENT A BIKE
Hire bikes with hand brakes or the old fashioned back-
pedal ones that dont include rental company signs so you
dont look like a silly tourist. Each bike has two locks, a nec-
essary luxury in a city of bike thieves.QA-2, Damstraat 20
- 22, tel. (+31) 206 25 50 29, info@bikes.nl, www.bikes.
nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Prices: from 3 hours for 6.50 to
a full day for 9.50. TJA
BOAT RENTAL
CANAL BIKE
Rents pedal boats for Amsterdam canals near the Rijks-
museum.QH-8, Weteringschans 26-1hg, tel. (+31) 90 03
33 44 42, info@canal.nl, www.canal.nl.
SLOEP DELEN
This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at
Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a
date and time online. All boats are powered by (environ-
mentally friendly) electricity and theyre easy to navigate
even without any prior experience.QC-6, Nassaukade
69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07, info@sloepdelen.nl, www.
sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 50/hour.
BUSES
City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as
a nal option once the trams have stopped running. Night
buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes con-
necting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.
CAR RENTAL
AVIS
Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories
and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank-
omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl.
Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A
EUROPCAR
Cars from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpas-
sage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com.
Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Also at E-9,
Overtoom 197. A
Spring day on the Brouwersgracht M.Zaprauskis
FERRIES
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central
Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord
on the other side of the River IJ.
AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL
Passenger Terminal Amsterdam hosts more than 250,000
people every year. The striking architectural monument
is within walking distance of the Central Station and only
25km from the North Sea. The cosy hallway oers a giant
chess game, some food venues, a functional kids corner
and a luggage room with instructions in six languages.
QO-1, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, www.
ptamsterdam.com. TJAL
METRO
The metro is fast and ecient. Its a combination of under-
ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only
some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the
Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro
lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their
nal destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Iso-
latorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future,
hence all of the construction around town.
PETROL STATIONS
TEXACO
QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatis-
traat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A
SCOOTER RENTAL
LEFT BANK SCOOTERS
Left Bank Scooters rents vintage-style Vespas and also
oers personal tours of the city and countryside on a
scooter. All you have to do is call or book online and theyll
deliver the scooter to your hotel or apartment. Discover
Amsterdam on your own from 45/day or take a 3-hour
tour of the city with a personal guide for 100. You must
have a valid driving licence.Qtel. (+31) 645 28 98 07,
www.leftbankscooters.com/amsterdam. A
Free ferry behind Central Station M.Zaprauskis
TAXIS
You dont have to search far if you want to travel by taxi in
Amsterdam. About 3500 taxis are active in the city. These
taxis can be hailed on the street or found at one of more
than 50 ocial taxi ranks. The ranks, identiable by blue
boards, can be found near tourist attractions such as the
Dam, Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein. In addition to hail-
ing taxis on the road, its also possible to order a taxi by
phone.
TCA TAXI
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Sta-
tion, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederik-
splein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them
and order a cab any time of the day or night. Drivers are
safe and reliable and all of TCAs cars have permits that
allow them to ride on tram tracks, which is essential dur-
ing rush hour.Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl.
Open 24hrs.
WATERTAXI
Water taxis can pick you up and drop you o at virtually
any waterside address throughout Amsterdam and its en-
virons including the smallest of Amsterdam canals.QF-5,
Stationsplein 8, tel. (+31) 205 35 63 63, www.water-taxi.
nl. Prices: 1.75 - 2.25/minute. Maximum 8 people.
TRAINS
Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available.
The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which
is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Bel-
gium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent
stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity oers fast
connections between Dutch cities. Most of the stations are
centrally located. You can easily nd all train departures as
well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow
timetables in the station show departure times and plat-
form numbers. The route is shown at the top of each board.
Tickets come in many forms. You have plenty of choices
varying from singles and day returns, a weekend return
or a day travel card. There are NS ticket machines at every
station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro PIN at the NS
Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the machines
at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central also accept
credit cards.
TRAMS
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run
from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than
10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot
youre better o purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
Amsterdam Basics
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
On public holidays shops and museums often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
city councils, post oces and banks are closed and
some shops and restaurants may also take the day o.
January 1 New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)
April 18, 2014 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
April 20, 2014 Easter Sunday (Pasen)
April 21, 2014 Easter Monday (Pasen)
April 26, 2014 Kings Day (Koningsdag)
May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
May 4 Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
May 9 Mothers Day (Moederdag)
May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren)
June 20 Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
June 26 Veterans Day (Veteranendag)
September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis)
December 31 New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
Read on and nd out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty
of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available
here.
ALCOHOL
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on oer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of
the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that spe-
cialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as
jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or
wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll
be carded, so always bring identication. This holds true
for supermarkets and o-licences, too. If youre a little too
tipsy youll probably be asked (rmly, yet kindly) to leave
the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up
spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank.
CYCLING
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi-
cally as at as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive
country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection
of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their
bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like
Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars,
trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all
serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your
eld of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be
just as dangerous. Although parents are condent enough
in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport
their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore
trac rules and basically ride wherever they like often caus-
ing mayhem on the streets.
LANGUAGE
Dutch is an Indo-European Germanic language that is
mostly spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname
(South America). It is closely connected to the Low German
dialects which by now have largely been ooded by ocial
German. These dialects managed to keep a number of pro-
to-Germanic characteristics and for this reason Dutch as a
language is a living fossil. It represents a group of important
dialects that were spoken by the founders of the Frankish
Empire and the Saxons. The latter group were the founders
of the English language as it is spoken today, hence An-
glo-Saxons. Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is de-
scended from the 17th-century version of modern Dutch.
To the dismay of language purists, many English words
have been integrated into Dutch. Moreover, many youth
are responsible for a shift in the language. This isnt some-
thing recent. in the rst half of the 19th century, students
already started thinking up their own words that have now
been adopted for decades and are listed in the Netherlands
most renowned dictionary, Dikke van Dale. Recently the
Dutch-language hip hop band De Jeugd van Tegenwoor-
dig (Todays Youth) provided a bombardment of words that
are hardly ever understood by anyone over the age of 30.
Watskeburt? (Dutch slang for whats happened?).
Most Dutch have a more than fairly healthy command of
the English language. Many will also be adept at other
European languages with German being the most com-
monly spoken. Mastering the Dutch language can be a
terrifying ordeal, but learning a few key phrases will make
things easier and might even win you a few friends and
admirers.
Remember where you left your bike! M.Zaprauskis
Amsterdam Basics
LOCAL TIME
From 28 March to 31 October, the Netherlands is in the
Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. During
the rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central
European Time Zone, or GMT+1.
MAIL & PHONES
All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all tel-
ephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) pre-
x, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
MONEY
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt-
ed the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is
no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There
are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of
1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following
values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collec-
tion of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you
feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never
accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and
withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty
in the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa
and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind
that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often
leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein.
At the train station you can nd a GWK Travelex shop
(Stationsplein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00
- 22:00). Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa
and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure
to carry some money with you as some bars only accept
cash and others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20
to use a card.
PROSTITUTION
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across
the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the
Dutch did what they always do when confronted with
a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind
eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red
Light district only rousted sex workers if they became
too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts
or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the
Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction,
but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to
make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo.
Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any pho-
tographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if
you want some photographic evidence of your visit to
Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information
see Nightlife.
ROADS
For a country as small as the Netherlands, there are a ri-
diculously high number of asphalt roads and motorways.
Every town, village or hamlet can be reached from the
black ribbon that never seems to be more than a few kilo-
meters away. Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads
and cars (its compulsory in the Netherlands to have your
car checked for faults at least once every two years) trac
quite frequently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. This
is to be expected when one considers that there are, on
average, two vehicles per household. And there are 7 mil-
lion households! The majority of Dutch drivers never break
the speed limit, and considering the severity of trac nes,
this seems wise enough. Driving through a red light? This
will cost you 160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be
prepared to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maxi-
mum speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and
be ned. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside
city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the road
signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the right side
of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on motorways!
You dont want to know how many tourists are plucked o
the road by police each year.
SMOKING
Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Nether-
lands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on
July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge cam-
paign to make people aware of the eects of smoking on
their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of ciga-
rette smoke. For some this is an enormous benet and oth-
ers (read: smokers) nd it a pain and banish themselves to
the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear
rules you may suddenly nd yourself in a smoke-lled pub.
This is usually in bars with just a single sta member: the
boss. Or you may nd yourself in a pub that outs the ban
on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you.
If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates
this, then the manager will receive a ne upon inspection.
The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of
marijuana (see Coeeshops).
Its always busy on the Damrak M.Zaprauskis
Culture & Events
MUSIC & EVENTS
April
Date Time Event Venue
12 20:00
Ennio Morricone. Film mu-
sic by the legend known
for the teme song to The
Good, the Bad & the Ugly.
35 - 85
ZDO
18
- 20
15:00
20:00
The Chinese National
Circus - Shanghai Nights.
47 - 60
RAI
9 - 18
Imagine Film Festival at
the EYE Film Museum.
The best, funniest and
weirdest from all genres.
More info at imagineflm-
festival.nl
EYE
23 20:15
Classical. Royal Concert-
gebouw Orchestra, Frank
Peter Zimmermann on
violin, Mariss Jansons
conductor. 30 - 90
CG
26
King's Day. The very frst
King's Day in Holland with
live music, markets, per-
fomances and everybody
dressed in orange
CC
28 20:00
Pop. Justin Timberlake. The
20/20 Experience World
Tour. 45 - 95
ZDO
May
2 20:00
Pop. Miley Cyrus - Bangerz
Tour. 42 - 55
ZDO
3
Amsterdam Tulip Days.
Visit tulpendagenam-
sterdam.nl for more info.
12.50
CC
Kings of Leon will perform at the Ziggo Dome on June 2
Amsterdam has no shortage of concerts, festivals and exhi-
bitions. For a complete list of whats on in the Dutch capital
visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BALLET & OPERA
AMSTERDAM MUSIC THEATRE (MUZIEKTHE-
ATER AMSTERDAM)
This is the home of both the Netherlands Opera and Na-
tional Ballet. Watch world-class performances here or take
a tour of the place on Saturdays at noon.QH-6, Water-
looplein 22, tel. (+31) 205 51 81 17, www.muziektheater.
nl. Guided tour admission (Sat 12:00): 6. AK
CINEMAS
PATHE ARENA
One of three places in the Netherlands that has a giant
IMAX screen. The digital sound is also a big bonus.QA-
renaboulevard 600, tel. (+31) 900 14 58, www.pathe.
nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. (5 - 13).
TAL
THE MOVIES
An institution in Amsterdam since 1912, The Movies is a bit
old fashioned, but thats also its biggest attraction. Take
in independent lms or hang out at its bar or restaurant.
QD-4, Haarlemmerdijk 161 - 163, tel. (+31) 206 38 60
16, www.themovies.nl.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
HET CONCERTGEBOUW
Since 1888 this beautifully designed architectural master-
piece has been the leading classical concert hall in town.
QF-9, Concertgebouwplein 10, tel. (+31) 206 71 83 45,
www.concertgebouw.nl.
CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC
MELKWEG
Since 1970 Melkweg has been one of the best known cul-
tural centres in the Netherlands. Five artistic disciplines
are available under one roof: music, dance/theatre, lm,
photography and media art. Concerts, dance events, the-
atrical and dance performances, lms, festivals and photo
exhibitions are staged in ve halls and several small rooms.
QE-8, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, tel. (+31) 205 31 81 81,
www.melkweg.nl.
PARADISO
Up-and-coming bands play in the small room while big
names perform in the main hall of this former church.
Kings of Leon, The White Stripes and even Lady Gaga have
all played here.QF-8, Weteringschans 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206
26 45 21, www.paradiso.nl.
SUGAR FACTORY
Sugar Factory calls itself a cutting-edge multi-disciplinary
night theatre, so nd out for yourself if theyre exaggerat-
ing. Good for live bands and hot international DJs.QF-7,
Lijnbaansgracht 238, www.sugarfactory.nl.
Culture & Events
4 20:30
Pop. Robbie Williams.
Swings Both Ways Tour.
69 - 89
ZDO
9 20:00
Singer-songwriter. Julio
Iglesias. 69 - 99
HMH
17 20:00
Rock. Clif Richard. Still
Reelin' and A-Rockin.
54 - 69
ZDO
17 12:30
Classical. Radio Philhar-
monical Orchestra, Groot
Omroep Choir & James
Gafgan perform Dvok.
48 - 55
CG
22 20:00
Rock. The Eagles. History
of the Eagles Tour. 74
- 95
ZDO
27 20:00 Rock. Nine Inch Nails. 47 HMH
30
Amsteram Live on Stage.
Live electro music with
the South African duo
Goldfsh! Located near the
Amsterdamse Bos. More
info at facebook.com/
amsterdamliveonstage
AB
June
1 19:30 Punk. The Travoltas. 12.50 PA
2 20:00
Rock. Kings of Leon.
44 - 49
ZDO
7 20:30
Singer-songwriter. Paul
Weller. 35
PA
9 19:30
Rock. Ed Kowalczyk per-
forms Throwing Copper.
32.50
MW
22 14:15
Classical. Bach Orchestra
of the Netherlands with
Olga Zinovieva & Systse
Buwalda. 50 - 55
CG
24 20:00
Boogie. ZZ Top with the
Ben Miller Band. 54
HMH
Miley Cyrus will perform at the Ziggo Dome on May 2
CONCERT HALLS
AMSTERDAM RAI
A large venue for conferences, trade shows and music con-
certs.QU-1, Europaboulevard 22, tel. (+31) 205 49 12 12,
www.raitheater.nl.
HEINEKEN MUSIC HALL
The Heineken Music Hall consists of two big stages, but
the larger one with 5,500 seats, nicknamed the Black Box,
is known throughout Europe for its great acoustic sound.
Its the only venue in the Netherlands thats designed es-
pecially for amplied pop music and more than 600,000
music lovers attend a broad range of concerts here every
year.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 590, tel. (+31) 900 68 74 24
2, www.heineken-music-hall.nl.
ZIGGO DOME
Amsterdams ultra-modern concert venue in Zuidoost has
already hosted such acts as Sting, Pearl Jam and Madonna.
QU-1, De Passage 100, www.ziggodome.nl.
THEATRES & MUSIC VENUES
AMSTERDAMSE BOS OPENLUCHTTHEATER
This outdoor theatre has hosted more than 40 shows each
summer since 1985. It can accommodate up to 1500 music
lovers and theatre-goers.QDe Duizendmeterweg 7, Am-
stelveen, tel. (+31) 206 43 32 86, www.bostheater.nl.
VONDELPARK OPENLUCHTTHEATER
Every big city has a famous park like Hyde Park in London
or Central Park in New York. For Amsterdams residents
its denitely the Vondelpark and every summer its open-
air stage hosts dozens of acts from dance and jazz to
stand up comedy and cabaret.QE-9, Vondelpark, www.
openluchttheater.nl.
TICKETS
Tickets for events such as musical concerts, sports, the
arts, theatre, family outings and festivals are best bought
at the venue itself or at TicketMaster (www.ticketmaster.nl)
outlets. You can buy tickets by phone or pick up reserved
tickets from selected VVV Outlets, TicketShops and Free
Record Shops.
VENUES
AB Amsterdamse Bos
CC City Centre
CG Het Concertgebouw
EYE EYE Film Institute
HMH Heineken Music Hall
MW De Melkweg
PA Paradiso
RAI Amsterdam RAI
ZDO Ziggo Dome
Centrum
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace
V Home delivery E Live music
B Outside seating X Smoking section
S Takeaway W Wi
Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's
visitors want to see and it's also the place where most
people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's
most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the
city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually
quite large, so you may want to use public transportation
to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all
of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infa-
mous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping
is only a short walk across the square from the station as are
the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world
famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also
just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the
Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan
neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars
and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to
some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo
and the Hortus Botanical Gardens.
ARRIVING IN CENTRUM
If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you
arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams
No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and
17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take
you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther aeld to the
Plantage area.
ACCOMMODATION
Centrum truly has it all from hostels and cheap 2-star ac-
commodation to award-winning design hotels, but room
rates can be obscenely high so book well in advance.
CREAM OF THE CROP
INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM
Already a hotel in 1867, the building gracefully combines
antique interior design elements with modern conve-
niences, so you can enjoy regal surroundings without
feeling like your trapped in a museum where youre not al-
lowed to touch anything or to raise your voice. QI-8, Pro-
fessor Tulpplein 1, tel. (+31) 206 22 60 60, amsterdam.
intercontinental.com. 79 rooms (executive from 473,
suites from 702). PTJHA6UFLGB
KDCwW hhhhh
RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL
This luxurious ve-star hotel, which is part of the Marriott
group, oers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms
in the city centre only a ve-minute walk from the Central
Station. The hotel was completely renovated in 2009 and
its accommodation includes all of the amenities one would
expect from a ve-star hotel including king size beds, wire-
less internet access, climate control, large at screen TVs and
a few extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. QA-1,
Kattengat 1, tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, www.marriott.com.
402 rooms (deluxe from 269, club level from 329).
PJHAUFLGKDW hhhhh
UPMARKET
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL AMSTERDAM
CENTRAAL STATION
This huge hotel oers over 500 spacious rooms in a mod-
ern glass and steel building on the water near the Central
Station. All accommodation includes tasteful dcor with
neutral colours, wall-to-wall carpeting, oor-to-ceiling
windows with excellent views, iMac computers with free
wi-, refrigerators and private bathrooms. The rooftop Sky
Lounge that aords patrons unparalleled vistas of Amster-
dam.QG-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00,
www.placesdoubletree.com. 553 rooms (doubles/twin
from 204, executive from 254, suites from 354).
PTJHA6ULGBKXW hhhh
HOTEL DIE PORT VAN CLEVE
Each of its 122 rooms includes some reminder of the
nations Delft Blue porcelain tradition, its brasserie is fa-
mous for its local cuisine, not to mention its steaks, and
the Blauwe Parade bar looks more like a museum than a
popular watering hole. Although the general ambience
puts one in a more antique frame of mind, the accommo-
dation includes all of the usual 21st-century amenities like
at screen TVs and free wi-. Dam Square is only a stones
throw from the hotel and the Central Station is only a short
walk or tram ride away.QNieuwezijds Voorburgwal 176
- 180, tel. (+31) 207 14 20 00, www.dieportvancleve.
com. 122 rooms (doubles/twin from 145, superior
from 165, executive from 185, suites from 215).
TJHAGKW hhhh
Spring day on Rembrandtplein M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS
CANAL HOUSE
If youve ever wondered what it would be like to spend
the night in one of Amsterdams fabulous canal houses,
then by all means book a room at this boutique hotel on
the posh Keizersgracht. But one shouldnt expect many
antiques apart from paintings as each of its 23 rooms has
been completely renovated with modern and luxurious
furnishings. QKeizersgracht 148, tel. (+31) 206 22 51
82, www.canalhouse.nl. 23 rooms (good rooms from
240, better rooms from 260, great rooms from 310,
exceptional rooms from 390, best rooms from 550).
PJAW hhhh
HOTEL NOTTING HILL AMSTERDAM
Located on the edge of the city centre only a short walk
from Amsterdam Souths bustling De Pijp district, this styl-
ish boutique hotel oers 67 comfortable rooms equipped
with LED TVs, climate control, wireless internet access,
Nespresso machines, tea sets, bathrobes and slippers,
safes and private bathrooms as well as designer interiors
in neutral beige and black colours. A terrace on the neigh-
bouring canal is also available.QWesteinde 26, tel. (+31)
205 23 10 30, www.hotelnottinghill.nl. 67 rooms (sin-
gles from 129, doubles from 149, triples from 199).
PAULGBKW hhhh
MID-RANGE
HOTEL SINT NICOLAAS
Although this unique circular, tower-like building was
once used as the Amsterdam harbour oce in the 18th
and 19th centuries, it now houses an excellent, yet af-
fordable design hotel a 3-minute walk from the Central
Station. The bar/reception area with its huge replace,
fresh owers and modern, but cosy furnishings includ-
ing laptop stations for busy or bored guests will no doubt
dazzle you and its rooms, each designed in a dierent
fashion, range in style from downright funky to sober
minimalism. The sta are ultra-friendly and can help you
with just about anything.QA-1, Spuistraat 1A, tel. (+31)
206 26 13 84, www.hotelnicolaas.nl. 27 rooms (singles
99 - 125, doubles 114 - 167, triples 164, quads 164).
PAIW hhh
NH CITY CENTRE AMSTERDAM
This large hotel is housed in an historic Art Deco building
in the heart of the city centre, hence its rather apt name.
All of its 209 rooms are decorated in a similar style, which
is characteristic of NH hotels. The interiors oer contem-
porary furnishings with an occasional ourish of colour like
a red duvet in otherwise neutral surroundings. Naturally,
at screen TVs, writing desks and wireless internet access
come standard as well as private bathrooms. Visit its dVij
Vlieghen restaurant across the street which oers upmar-
ket cuisine, a 17th-century interior and no less than four
original Rembrandt etchings.QA-3, Spuistraat 288 - 292,
tel. (+31) 204 20 45 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 209 rooms
(standard rooms from 129, superior from 159, triples
from 174). JHA6ULGKW hhh
BUDGET
A-TRAIN HOTEL
Not only is it located across the street from the Central Sta-
tion, but a rail theme also dominates every aspect of the
hotel including the breakfast area, where you dine in rail
car booths and the miniature train models and memorabilia
covering every surface of the building. Rooms are small but
oer private bathrooms with shower and hairdryer as well
as a TV, phone and safe. The friendly sta complete the ex-
perience.QA-1, Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206 24 19
42, www.atrainhotel.com. 34 rooms (singles from 119,
doubles from 129). JAKX hhh
BED & BREAKFAST
LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS
Conveniently located in an historic Amsterdam building
between the Central Station and Dam Square, La Vie en
Rose oers two beautifully decorated and aordably priced
apartments that include loads of modern amenities like at
screen TV, stylish furniture and dcor, kitchenette and free
wireless internet access. Thankfully, many of the original
design features of the interiors have also been preserved
so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Amsterdam has
some strange rules regarding its buildings, so a maximum
of only two people are allowed to stay in each apartment.
QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 90B, tel. (+31) 651 59
57 87, www.amsterdamapartmentlavieenrose.com. 2
rooms (2 apartments from 115). J6LNGW
HOSTELS
BOBS YOUTH HOSTEL
Only a short walk from the Central Station, this legendary
Amsterdam hostel is one of the few of its genre that special-
ises in walk-in business. Rooms are often located in a nearby
building with stairs so steep youd think the Hillary Step was
at the top. Rooms are basic with bunk beds, but each dorm
has its own washroom. Unfortunately, there was no hot wa-
ter when we stayed there. QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburg-
wal 92, tel. (+31) 206 23 00 63, www.bobsyouthhostel.nl.
144 beds (dorm beds 18 - 23). A
Spring attractions on Dam Square M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
RESTAURANTS
Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the
following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite res-
taurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www.
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BAGELS
TONYS NY CITY BAGELS
Not far from the Rembrandt House, this self-proclaimed
New York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with
even more toppings from traditional cream cheese to
guacamole. Order a cold sandwich or tuna melts and
BLT bagels or you can try brownies, cookies and de-
licious carrot cake. If youd rather eat at home take a
bunch with you for 0.90/bagel or 8.50 for 10. Natu-
rally, coffee, tea and juice are also available in this bright
yellow bistro with high ceilings and views of the street.
Order and pay at the counter.QH-5, Jodenbreestraat
15, tel. (+31) 204 21 59 30, www.tonysnycitybagels.
nl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:30
- 18:00. (2 - 5).
CAFETERIAS
DE BIJENKORF KITCHEN
Pass some of the worlds biggest brands like Vuitton and
Gucci on your way to the top oor of this posh depart-
ment store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen an upmarket
cafeteria that oers a stylish, modern interior and views of
Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the
seafood stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order piz-
zas and pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. A
much-coveted outdoor terrace with limited seating is con-
nected to the bar area. Needless to say, the Kitchen also of-
fers plenty of ice cream, cake and coee.QA-2, Dam 1, tel.
900 09 19 (toll call), www.debijenkorf.nl. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00.
(5 - 12). AB
CHINESE
NAM KEE
In our estimation the best Chinese places have crispy duck
and pork hanging in their shop front windows and this
popular place located opposite the FGS He Hua Temple
in Chinatown certainly ts the bill. Order exotic dishes
with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary
shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food
hanging in the window which is delicious and costs only
half of what you would spend on the seafood dishes. The
maitre d loves to sing to both the patrons and himself and
is often caught in the act of singing to no one in particular.
QB-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34 70, www.
namkee.net. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Also at Geldersekade
117, tel. (+31) 206 39 28 46. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
14:30 - 24:00; Marie Heinekenplein 4, tel. (+31) 206 70
23 36. (10 - 18).
COFFEE
STARBUCKS
Only a scant few years ago Starbucks came to the Neth-
erlands where it easily conquered the hearts of local
Java drinkers. Theyve nally also made it to Amsterdam
where the word coeeshop diers quite substantially
from its counterpart in Seattle. Perhaps this is the reason
theyve only recently entered the market. In any event,
its everything youd expect. Its big, comfortable and its
good coee combos keep a parade of jittery caeine ad-
dicts queued up at all times. This particular location in a
former bank vault is also a so-called Starbucks laboratory
where baristas experiment with drinks that arent available
anywhere else in Europe.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 9 (Rem-
brandtplein), tel. (+31), www.starbucks.nl. Open 07:00
- 22:00. Also at F-8, Leidsestraat 101, tel. (+31) 206 24
15 92. Open 07:00 - 00:30, Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 23:30;
and Central Station. TJASW
DINERS
STUDIO 2
This cosy little caf oers great views of the bustling Flow-
er Market outside, not to mention excellent traditional
Dutch dishes like green pea soup, omelettes, pancakes,
apple pie and, like most places, an English breakfast for
tourists. The food is incredibly cheap by city centre stan-
dards, but if youre not hungry its also a good place to take
a break from shopping and sightseeing with a coee or
a beer.QA-3, Singel 504, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 36. Open
09:30 - 17:30. (5 - 8). A
TEDDYS CORNER
This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from sal-
ads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the
feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast with
coee or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also
oers beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge
your batteries and to line your stomach before returning
to other Red Light bars and coeeshops on this infamous
street.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67.
(7 - 15). A
Restaurants on the Spui M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
DUTCH
T LIEVERDJE
This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous
statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up
classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot, haring and
apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice for aord-
able prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and
the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal
but bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit
in your lap if youre male. Apparently, it doesnt like women
or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large
brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier guar-
antee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek
eating times youll have to sit at the bar if you only want
a drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. On Fridays
happy hour begins at 20:00.QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31)
625 58 11 56, www.tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6
- 12). B
FAST FOOD
GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA
The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick
walls arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty
good, even at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the
sauce is truly spicy and the sta are constantly in motion
cutting meat and serving inebriated pub crawlers in the
middle of the night.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56,
tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00
- 04:00. (5 - 7). S
MANNEKEN PIS
Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinat-
ing rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has
become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-
fried potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50
and one of 16 sauces is included in the price from tra-
ditional mayonnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian pea-
nut satay condiment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel
and kroket can also be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.
mannekenpis.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
02:00. (3 - 5). S
FONDUE
HET KARBEEL
This place seems to be one of the few original restaurants
on a street lousy with Argentine steakhouses and Chinese
eateries. The atmosphere is rened, yet casual and its inte-
rior is a combination of brick and wood with high timber
ceilings and plenty of light, natural and otherwise. You can
order pastas, salmon and steaks, but its true speciality is
cheese fondue. Choose from a variety of dierent cheeses
from local Gouda to Belgian Trappist fromage in which to
dunk your bread and order one its ne wines to compli-
ment the meal.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 16, tel. (+31) 206
27 49 95, www.hetkarbeel.nl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (15
- 20). AK
FRENCH
ZUID ZEELAND
Courteous or brusque service could make or break your
dining experience. The professional sta at this tradi-
tional French restaurant still serve in an old-fashioned and
heart-warming way that adds to the relaxed ambiance of
this elegant establishment. But make sure you bring your
platinum card, because a meal in this monumental build-
ing wont come cheap. It is however the prefect place for a
romantic evening with your signicant other and you can
linger at your table for as long as you like without being
hustled out the door.QF-7, Herengracht 413, tel. (+31)
206 24 31 54, www.zuidzeeland.nl. Open 12:00 - 14:30,
18:00 - 23:00. (25 - 27). JAGKX
ICE CREAM
METROPOLITAN DELI
Although most venues on Warmoesstraat lure you inside
with large beer selections, erotic gadgets or a whi of pot
smoke, Metropolitan Deli tempts passers-by with a ow-
ing chocolate fountain and a huge display of freshly made
gelato in dozens of avours from pistachio and hazelnut
to cheesecake and even stroopwafel (caramel cookie). You
can also buy gourmet chocolates and chocolate avoured
beer! Recommended.QWarmoesstraat 135, tel. (+31)
203 30 19 55, www.metropolitandeli.nl. Open 09:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AS
INDIAN
GANDHI
Gandhi is a top-notch Indian restaurant with attentive sta
who serve tasty traditional Indian curry dishes in a room
with no windows and hardly any decorations. However,
the real surprise is its tacky location only a ve-minute
walk from Central Station. You could easily walk past this
hidden treasure, so look for a sauna next to the entrance.
Try the combination menus, which are good value for
money.QA-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22, www.
indianrestaurantgandhi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (13 - 17). PTJAGK
Fresh oysters at the Noordermarkt M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
INDONESIAN
KANTJIL & DE TIJGER
Stylish, yet casual, Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if youre
in the mood for tasty Indonesian cuisine from local favourites
like a variety of rijsttafels and nasi goring to delicious desserts
such as the green Javanese pancake with coconut and palm
sugar syrup. The exotic smells of the sauces and seasonings
are the rst thing one notices upon entering as meals are
prepared in an open-plan kitchen to the left. Although the
place does include some traditional design features like a ti-
ger, palm trees and bamboo, the interior is generally a more
modern aair. On a hot day its delicious organic juices or the
lemongrass ice tea really hit the spot.QA-3, Spuistraat 291
- 293, tel. (+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil.nl. Open 16:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 25). AB
INTERNATIONAL
CAF PROUST
Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish
caf is decorated with blackboard art (youll see what we
mean when you get there) and two long mirrors on op-
posite walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most
striking feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar
that looks like a revolver. You can order a good cocktail
or a tasty brew, but the menu is also worth a look and of-
fers such interesting dishes as lamb burgers with harissa
sauce. Caf Proust also has a small terrace but you might
want to reserve a spot ahead of time or get here early.
QE-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 45, www.
goodfoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 18). B
DANTE KITCHEN & BAR
This was a favourite hangout of Hollands greatest rock
star, the late Herman Brood. Now its one of the most styl-
ish places in Amsterdam. At Dantes youll nd the most
wonderful Italian and American dishes, which sounds like
an odd combination, but somehow it works. Order an
anti-pasta misto or a barbecued burger from the open
grill and if youre into unique alcoholic beverages try one
of 900 bottles stocked behind the bar!QA-3, Spuistraat
320, tel. (+31) 207 74 74 73, www.amsterdamdante.nl.
JGBKX
ITALIAN
IL TRAMEZZINO
If youre looking for something a bit more stylish than your
average caf, this trendy bistro serves up a bright white in-
terior punctuated by some classic Italian products that are
also for sale like Vergnano coee, prosecco and Di Saronno
amaretto cookies. It also serves small, but delicious sand-
wiches with the crusts cut o lled with fresh ingredients
like mozzarella, olive tapenade and mortadella. Naturally,
the coee is fantastic. If it looks full, just squeeze in. Theres
more room in the back.QE-4, Haarlemmerstraat 79a, tel.
(+31) 207 70 71 31, www.iltramezzino.nl. (5 - 7).
KOREAN
YOKIYO
Are you drawn to the bluish light outside Yokiyo like a
moth to a ame? Take the steps downstairs to the en-
trance of this authentic Korean restaurant and you wont
be disappointed. Serving dinner the Korean way, Yokiyo
teaches you to share and ll its DIY-wraps of lettuce with
the little snacks of your choice. This method of eating
might not be perfect for a date scenario (think of the hor-
rors of Korean kimchi between your teeth at the long and
less than private tables), but Yokiyo pleasantly surprises
with its simplicity. The arty metal lamps dont hurt either.
QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 67, tel. (+31) 203 31 45
62, www.yokiyo.nl. Open 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
PJAGKW
MALAYSIAN
NYONYA MALAYSIA EXPRESS
The old adage that good things come in small packages
is certainly true of this tiny Malaysian restaurant just o
the bustling Nieuwmarkt. From the outside the miniature
planes in the window might put one in mind of an Asian
travel agency, but in reality this is one of Amsterdams best
ethnic food experiences. Yes, its compact, but the food
is abundant and the owners are unnaturally kind. Try the
delicious Malaysian pancakes.QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal
38, tel. (+31) 204 22 24 47. Open 13:00 - 21:00. (11 - 18).
TJGKS
MEDITERRANEAN
LEMPICKA
Its impossible to miss the wide windows, the broad ter-
race and the sensational bar even from the outside.
Lempicka is a sight for sore eyes, especially for the theatre
goers whove been entertained/bored at the immensely
popular Carre Theatre around the corner. The Mediterra-
nean menu might lack a little inspiration, but the delicious
chocolate mousse is to die for! For the creative among you,
it organises cinema nights on Mondays and DJs on Fridays.
QI-8, Sarphatistraat 23, tel. (+31) 206 22 02 09, www.
barlempicka.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -
03:00. (14 - 19). TJNBKW
Sublime view of Amsterdam from Caf Deck 5 DigiDaan
Centrum
MEXICAN
LOS PILONES
Although quite colourful, and denitely not lacking in the
dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual
embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexi-
can wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one
of the sports icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft
shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the
salsa that comes with the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy.
QD-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206
20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 02:00 Also at F-8, Kerkstraat 63, tel. (+31) 203
20 46 5. (20 - 25). PTJAGBK
PANCAKES
THE PANCAKE BAKERY
Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tour-
ist trap, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and
omelettes and thats pretty much it. Each of its marble-
topped tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with
a wooden spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar,
the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the
low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the aroma of
pancakes on the griddle can be a little overwhelming by
the kitchen. QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25
13 33, www.pancake.nl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15).
PIZZA
LA PERLA
A couple of guys frantically stoke a wood-fuelled brick piz-
za oven to keep up with the large demand for thin-crust
pizzas that have locals queued up outside. But this isnt a
fancy, sit-down establishment, although it does oer two
counters and some stools, which are almost always oc-
cupied. On weekend nights, people order their gourmet
pizzas baked with real Mozzarella di Bufala di Campana
cheese and then sip a glass of wine or an Italian Dolimiti
micro brew outside until one of the master bakers runs
over with their order. Most people, already worked up into
a frenzy by the wonderful aromas, eat it right there on the
street.QD-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 14, tel. (+31) 206
24 88 28, www.pizzaperla.nl. Open 17:00 - 22:00. (10 -
12). AW
QUICK EATS
CAF DECK5
Although you shouldnt expect haute cuisine, this caf
is located on the rooftop terrace of one of Amsterdams
most unusual buildings - Science Center NEMO. You can
order sausage rolls, hot dogs, sandwiches with tuna, ham,
eggs or cheese or sample one of four day-glow coloured
slush puppy drinks, while admiring an amazing view of
the city centre. Beer and wine is also available as well as
ice cream, but bear in mind that youll have to climb up
some stairs to get there, unless you want to buy a ticket
to the museum.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32
33, www.e-nemo.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon.
(2 - 4). AB
SUSHI
TOKYO CAFE
As far as top sushi restaurants go, youd have a hard time
nding a better place than Tokyo Caf, which is located
close to the citys busiest shopping streets, yet basks in
the relative quiet of the Spui square. Sit down at one of the
small, intimate tables and eat as much sushi as you can stu
down your throat for no more than 22. Unfortunately, you
cant order separate pieces of sushi, but you can sample
plenty of ice cream, which seems to be a rarity at sushi joints.
QA-3, Spui 15, tel. (+31) 204 89 79 18, www.tokyocafe.nl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 26). PTJGB
THAI
BIRD
This Thai restaurant was one of the rst ethnic eateries to
open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims
to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the
stu youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure,
but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve
some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get
in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The
interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights
mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying
meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14
42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17).
PTJAGKS
ROYAL THAI
Between white tiled walls where large green statues of
Thai deities stand and mythical creatures dance and play
musical instruments, patrons of this earth sip jasmine tea
or Singha beer and eat a wide variety of Southeast Asian
cuisine from the land of smiles. Although not exactly
bowled over by the authenticity of the food, the red curry
chicken wasnt bad and even a bit spicy. If youre feeling
adventurous try one of its special cocktails made with Me-
khong, a Thai spirit that will put you in a Bangkok state
of mind in no time.QF-8, Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 94,
tel. (+31) 206 26 72 61, www.royal-thai.nl. Open 15:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (15 - 22). AVBW
Diners enjoy the sunshine on the Noordermarkt
Centrum
TIBETAN
TIBET RESTAURANT
Despite its uninspired name, the Tibet Restaurant oers a
truly diverse selection of Himalayan specialities. The menu
also provides plenty of inane comments about the food
that are meant to be funny, but unfortunately come up a
little short. Our sizzling pork, however, was truly delicious,
so well give them a pass. The interior contains murals of
Tibetan landscapes, a huge photo of the Potala Palace in
Lhasa, the obligatory portrait of the Dalai Lama and a dis-
turbing photo of a Tibetan child that will make you want to
cry.QB-1, Lange Niezel 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 37, www.
tibet-restaurant.nl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. (10 - 16). A
TURKISH
GLLOGLU
All the goodies that the Turkish culinary tradition has to
oer can be found at this popular Amsterdam institution.
Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to
create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anato-
lias most famous treat. The exquisite avour of these reci-
pes have become so beloved that Gllolu has the hon-
our of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world
with establishments in dozens of countries. You can also
enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed
with real Turkish coee. The restaurant, caf and shop is
tastefully decorated with a mixture of European and Otto-
man features.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 7, tel. (+31) 203
20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS
UPMARKET RESTAURANTS
&SAMHOUD PLACES
Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world
of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland, not far
from the Central Station. Although a three- or six-course
meal will cost you roughly the same as a one-night stay at a
fancy Amsterdam hotel, this chic hotspot is a must for true
foodies. If you appreciate good food, but not the price tag
then reserve a spot in the lounge, which has a much more
aordable menu. Given its location near the water, fantastic
views are also guaranteed. Did we mention that &Samhoud
Places has two Michelin stars?QG-4, Oosterdokskade 5,
tel. (+31) 202 60 20 94, www.samhoudplaces.com. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Tue 18:30 - 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. (three-course meal 130). AL
VERMEER
Spread out over three historic Amsterdam buildings in
the NH Barbizon Palace, Vermeer is one of the citys most
exclusive restaurants and with good reason. Each day the
chef creates a menu based on the freshest, locally grown
products he was able to procure from organic farms and a
three-course meal can usually be had for around 65. Ver-
meer is hoping to gain a coveted Michelin star in the near
future.QB-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59 - 72, tel. (+31) 205
56 48 85, www.nh-hotels.com. Open for lunch 12:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun; Open for dinner 18:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. AI
VIETNAMESE
VIETNAM RESTAURANT
This green and gold restaurant wont win any awards for
interior design, but it does have some Asian inuences here
and there like porcelain idols and bamboo over the bar.
Although it oers plenty of Chinese dishes too, like Peking
duck and egg foo yung, it also oers Vietnamese classics like
pho soup and bun thom thit nuong cha gio which really isnt
as complicated as it sounds. Its basically vermicelli with
roast pork, shrimp, spring rolls and lettuce served in a big
bowl with a vinegar chilli sauce on the side. Bear in mind
that some of the noodle dishes, like the one just mentioned,
are served cold.QB-1, Zeedijk 57, tel. (+31) 206 38 62 34,
www.restaurant-vietnam.nl. (8 - 18). A
UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH
If youre in a caf and cant
decide what to eat, just
do as the locals do and
order the uitsmijter (pro-
nounced outs-may-ter).
This is Hollands contribu-
tion to world comfort and breakfast food and is on the
menu of nearly every caf worth its salt in the Neth-
erlands. Although presentation varies from place to
place, its basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up
served on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese.
Some of the swankier establishments in town will also
oer gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast
beef or prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but
this classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced
egg sandwich. Although its usually a huge meal, its
often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which
is perhaps why its also so popular with frugal locals.
In case youre wondering, uitsmijter means bouncer or
someone who throws people out of clubs, because it
was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on
before crashing after a long night out.
Canalside bars by the Zeedijk M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
CAFS
Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in
an historic establishment thats over 100 years old or sip a
special coee poured by a professional barrista.
CAF DE ZWART
This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multico-
loured tile oor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can or-
der coee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian
draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwich-
es are also on oer as well as a large outdoor terrace with
great views of the hubbub on the square.QA-3, Spuist-
raat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B
CAF KOBALT
Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails,
this incredibly popular eating and drinking establish-
ment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn
oors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically
gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a
table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even
in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy aordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection
of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. QE-4,
Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www.cafekobalt.nl.
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 -
01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
CAF KOOSJE
Located on a busy corner near the Artis Zoo, this classic
Dutch caf oers a large central bar with plenty of places
to sit, wooden benches lined up against the walls, some
leather couches for lounging, big windows with views and
plenty of outside seating. Koosje is chock full of authentic
local ambience enhanced by pleasant background music
thats interesting, but not distracting. You can order break-
fast food, soups and sandwiches from morning until the
afternoon and more substantial meals in the evening, but
a selection of beer and wine can be had whenever you like.
QI-6, Plantage Middenlaan 37, tel. (+31) 203 20 08 17,
www.koosjeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. (7 - 15). ABW
CAF SCHELTEMA
This classic Dutch caf, brown bar and beerhall is so authentic
its a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and drinking cul-
ture. Its worn wooden tables, oors and wall panelling have
been around for ages, not to mention the antique memora-
bilia that seem to cover every available space. An old stove in
the centre of the room keeps patrons warm on cold days or
perhaps its the jenever and a good selection of Low Coun-
try beers that keeps the chill away. Sandwiches, soups and
local main courses are available but we recommend one of
its hearty country-style omelettes.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voor-
burgwal 242, tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18).
CAF VAN ZUYLEN
This quiet, yet popular caf oers a bright interior with
great views, wood tables and hardwood oors as well as
wood benches along the walls so you can get to know
your neighbours better. Although Van Zuylen serves sand-
wiches and toasties we recommend its brownies, cakes or,
better yet, one of its breakfasts. In the evening locals come
for wine, cocktails and draught beer until after midnight.
QA-2, Torensteeg 4 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 39 10 55, www.
cafevanzuylen.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
03:00. (5 - 12). A
GEORGE DELI U.S.A.
This impressive bistro not far from Rembrandtplein oers
a black and white interior that includes a huge counter
bar and tabletops made of marble. You can drop by any
time of the day and order great breakfasts like eggs Bene-
dict or Florentine, freshly made sandwiches from classic
Ruebens and BLTs to lox and bagels or spend a little more
money and splurge on oysters (in season) with a glass of
Champagne or shot of Grey Goose vodka. QH-6, Utrecht-
sestraat 17, tel. (+31) 203 30 01 71, www.cafegeorge.nl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. (5 - 10). A
DE KAT IN DE WIJNGAERT
This casual caf and bar is often full at the weekend when
many a local comes in for a big breakfast, a beer and the
days paper. Seating at one of half a dozen worn wooden
tables is limited so singles are encouraged to belly up
to the long, red granite counter for food and drink or
a cup of coee and some pleasant conversation. Try
one of its toasted sandwiches or a Dutch fry up.QD-4,
Lindengracht 160HS, tel. (+31) 206 22 45 54, www.
dekatindewijngaert.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. (7 - 12). B
KOEPEL CAF
This caf and bar is connected to the ve-star Marriott Re-
naissance, but although the service and food are top notch,
thankfully its comfortable old world atmosphere hasnt
been modernised by this large hotel chain, which is refresh-
ing. Koepel specialises in hamburgers made with Aberdeen
Angus beef, but also oers plenty of local food like uitsmijter,
pea soup and bitterballen.QA-1, Kattengat 1 (Marriott Re-
naissance Hotel). Open 10:00 - 23:00. (8 - 15). AB
Stop for a drink at one of the Singels numerous terraces
Centrum
NIGHTLIFE
Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife
reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a
full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as
videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
CASA ROSSO
This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action
for as long as you like. The programme varies over the
course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple
strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to
lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa
Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes
including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby
chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106
- 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50
including four drinks. A
THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB
Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for one
hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women
who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong
balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club,
which has a, shall we say, more dignied atmosphere
where guests pay 10 admission to sit by the pole where
beautiful women show their moves in various states of
undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezi-
jds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.
bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -
03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10.
BARS
BIBLOS
It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of
the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or
so licence plates from around the globe, currency both
young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles,
bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else
can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with
both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of
beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular.
QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX
CAF DE KOE
We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a
good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day
or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy
patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house
party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a gi-
ant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering
wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative
rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below
can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Mar-
nixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl.
Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A
CAF EMMELOT
This little pubs popularity is no doubt due to its good
location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some
of the best window shopping, although you could make
the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings em
in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isnt
enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap
late night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot
also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar sta they
might even put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for
the key to crapper at the bar, but the mens trough is open
to all.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22
16 26. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BX
CAF SOUND GARDEN
Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to
come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about.
Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden
was blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Au-
dioslave, but pretty damn close. If youd like to see what
an old squatters bar probably looked like before they sold
out (but with more Americans), then this is the place to go.
You can play pool or foosball inside or hit the private ca-
nalside terrace, which must infuriate the posh neighbours
next door in the evenings when things heat up. Inside
theres also a smoking room, not to mention a huge paint-
ing of Henry Rollins performing in naught but his undies.
QD-6, Marnixstraat 164 - 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53,
www.cafesoundgarden.nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 03:00. EBX
RED LIGHT STREETS
Dont be one of those tour-
ists fresh o the train that asks
the nearest local where the
Red Light District is located.
Its not hard to nd so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
straight ahead until you hit Ou-
dezijds Voorburgwal and, one
canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the
main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex thea-
tres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church)
is also chock full of working girls and you should de-
nitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg,
Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although
not as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of
red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on
Oude Nieuwstraat.
Centrum
LOUIS BAR (CAF DE DAM)
This place claims to be Amsterdams smallest bar and it
really is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the
walls and just as many football scarves dangle from the
ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty of
Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the dcor of this
iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate
the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if
a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isnt a city in China and if
you do decide to leave your bartender some coins hell put
them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar.QA-2, Dam-
straat 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 53 31. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BS
BEER BARS
BEER TEMPLE
The word temple isnt mere hyperbole. If youre into Amer-
ican craft brews you might just be tempted to drop to your
knees in awe and reverence at the sight of the huge black-
board that lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavy-
weights as Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brooklyn and
Flying Dog. Roughly 20 beers are available on draught,
including the house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles.
If youve had your ll of ales and IPAs, you can try some
rare and exotic libations like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Pen-
guin brew. Good pub grub like wings, burgers, hot dogs
and Trappist cheeses can also be had here.QA-2, Nieu-
wezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel. (+31) 206 27 14 27, www.
beertemple.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat
14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. ABW
CAF BELGIQUE
A couple of tables, a few stools at the bar, two benches
outside and thats about it for seating in this tiny brown
bar specialising in delicious Belgian brews too numerous
to mention by name. Rest assured, that if youre a beer
connoisseur the only complaint youll have here is that
the glasses are too small. Perhaps thats a blessing given
that most of the suds sold here weigh in somewhere just
below the 10% alcohol mark. Recommended.QA-2, Gra-
venstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 25 19 74, www.cafe-belgique.
nl. Open 14:00 - 01:00. EB
IN DE WILDEMAN
Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats
on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which
is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us
are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully
the friendly sta can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers
available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In
de Wildeman oers in bottles. If youre still not convinced,
the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste be-
fore you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual
wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled oor and
a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and
cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel.
(+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
BILLIARDS & POOL
THE POOL HOLE
Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas
where you can sit down and relax without the unmistak-
able clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one an-
other. That said, this partially sunken cellar oers half a
dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with
good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight.
QA-3, Voetboogstraat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.
thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
03:00. AB
BREW PUBS
BROUWERIJ T IJ
You really have to want to nd this place. Thankfully, we
did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the stu of
legends. Just look for the giant windmill about a 20-minute
walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk to
nd this microbrewery oering at least six unique beers in-
cluding something akin to a pilsner as well as the spicy (their
words) Columbus, which has an alcohol content of 9%. The
tasting room is functional and doesnt oer much decora-
tion or seating which is why most people choose to imbibe
at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkably cheap, but
only snacks are available so you might want to pace your-
self. Visit its website for information on brewery tours and
merchandise.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 17 86,
www.brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00 - 20:00 BS
PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL
Hidden in a narrow alley between two of the city centres
busiest pedestrian streets youll nd the tasting room of
the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys
beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively over-
whelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched
furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and
beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial,
old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the
actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub
grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the
soundtrack.QB-1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204
08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. A
Take a tour of one of Amsterdams brew pubs M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
BROWN BARS
CAF KARPERSHOEK
It could very well be that you have to be a person of the
male persuasion to appreciate this bar. Around since 1606
or 1629, depending on whom you talk to, it considers itself
to be Amsterdams oldest bar and after checking out the
shabby furniture and sand-worn oors it wont get any ar-
gument from us. Roughly 400 years ago sailors and other
rough characters could sit here and admire the view of the
ships on the IJ way before the train station cut o this port
city from the water. Today you can sip a local beer or jen-
ever here with middle-aged men who kiss one another on
the cheek in manly fashion.QA-1, Martelaarsgracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 78 86. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
CAF PAPENEILAND
This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 oers great
views of canals and church spires from its excellent posi-
tion at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht
and the Brouwersgracht. Inside youll nd an antique in-
terior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on the
walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier. Other
outstanding dcor features include copper bed warmers,
an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white Christmas
lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars of
its genre, Caf Papeneiland also oers seating above the
claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke.
Sip a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a
handful of beers on draught.QE-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. BX
CAF PIEPER
According to the plaque on the wall, and the bartender,
this ancient bar on the picturesque Prinsengracht has
been around since 1665 and having a look around the
place the only things that would make you think other-
wise are the modern music, current events posters and the
shiny coee machine. Everything else in this classic brown
bar, including its worn oorboards, low timber ceiling and
faded stained glass windows, looks its age. Order a tasty
local beer or maybe a La Choue by the gas re on a typi-
cal wet and rainy Amsterdam day or grab a seat outside for
a little sunshine and a smoke.QF-8, Prinsengracht 424,
tel. (+31) 206 26 47 75. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. B
CLUBS
BARKODE
This club which opened at the end of 2012 calls itself the
home base of techno, tech-house and deephouse and
thats actually no exaggeration. A visit to Barkode is going
back to basics on the three levels. You might expect the
club, which is the successor of what was once Club Home
near the Amstel to be bigger, but the atmosphere is in-
timate and clearly for lovers of international techno acts
with parties like Raven is Leven and Nachtcollege. If you
like your music to be bubbly and smooth, this is not the
place for you.QB-3, Wagenstraat 3-7, tel. (+31) 206 20
13 75, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl. Open 23:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
CLUB ESCAPE
Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amster-
dam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs,
unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Es-
cape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill
house music in Escape Club wont appeal to everyone,
but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe,
Studio, Ca and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because
youre caught between high school students and tourists?
QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www.
escape.nl. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00,
Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY
Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the profes-
sional international DJs from as far away as the States, who
know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual
so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G
gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the super-
cial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly
up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the
action.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00
08, www.sugarfactory.nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission:
5 - 12. AE
WINSTON KINGDOM
The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams
notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice
about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a
mistake. This dark grati-sprayed club actually oers de-
cent dance nights and smashing live performances from
tomorrows big indie and electro acts like Justice and The
Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with
a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals,
this is an excellent escape from the Warmoes, but theres
plenty of sleaze to nd here too, if youre really looking
for it.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80,
www.winston.nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 -
05:00. Admission: 5 - 10. E
Brown bars are local institutions not to be missed M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
A FAREWELL TO PINTS
Unless youre at an Irish pub or
sports bar where you can get
a proper pint or half liter mug,
beer glasses in the Netherlands
tend to come in dainty sizes
more suitable for children or la-
dies who lunch. This does take
some getting used to. A man
of 6ft and over holding a 0.25l
glass of beer does look (how
to put it diplomatically?) a little eeminate. Back home
in England, Ireland, America or wherever if your mates
spotted you drinking from such a puny glass, youd
probably feel like your sister just caught you trying on
one of her dresses, but in Amsterdam even longshore-
men and street tus swill their brews from these min-
iature tea set receptacles. Relax. Youre in Holland now.
COCKTAILS
DOOR 74
Talk about a hidden gem! Youll denitely walk past this
place a few times before realising theres a doorbell and a
mysterious big black door worth noticing. But its not just
a trendy concept or an attempt to be hip. Inside youll be
moved by excellent drinks, including vintage Champagnes
if you can aord them, attentive bar sta, free olives and
nuts and a fun speakeasy atmosphere. But dont forget to
make a reservation or youll have to queue up with all the
others ringing the doorbell.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat
74I, tel. (+31) 634 04 51 22, www.door-74.com. Open
20:00 - 02:00. JA
SKYLOUNGE
One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam
can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar
on the 11th oor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor
of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terric view of
the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the sta
are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elabo-
rate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking loca-
tion.QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08
00, doubletree.hilton.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. PJAULGBKXW
JENEVER BARS
IN DE OLOFSPOORT
The historic building that houses this charming bar was
built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate,
hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort oers over 200
dierent spirits including traditional and exotic local jen-
evers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade
cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disap-
pointed either as the Belgian Aigem Double on draught
is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this
one provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large
rooms, but make a note of its limited opening hours.QB-
1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www.
olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 -
01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A
LIVE MUSIC
ALTO JAZZ CAF
This legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train
car, but perhaps even narrower. Youll denitely have to
make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts
to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts per-
form every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters,
locals and foreigners in the know. Its dark the way a jazz
club should be and has something of a clandestine speak-
easy feel to it. Theres no cover charge, but even simple
drinks like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.QF-
8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49,
www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00
- 04:00. AE
SPORTS BARS
SATELLITE SPORTS CAF
The place is decorated with at screen TVs and not much
else, which means its clearly meant for gents with a han-
kering for football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feast
or Roman banquet. Order enormous English breakfasts
and burgers and steaks or test your stomachs mettle with
its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs for only 9.95. Shot spe-
cials and pitchers of Heineken are available on two oors
on busy Leidseplein.QF-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31) 204
27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. Open 08:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB
WHISKY BARS
WHISKYCAF L&B
Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on oer on
the blackboard, take a deep breath and nd your favourite
scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500 dierent
single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the
world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from
obscure Japanese distilleries.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.nl.
Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
WINE BARS
VYNE
Although wine is still considered a poor relative of beer in
Dutch bars, at the stylish and trendy Vyne, that most ancient
of alcoholic beverages takes centre stage and the warm inte-
rior is reason enough for a visit. One wall consists entirely of a
lounge sofa, while the other side of this long narrow room is a
large depository for thousands of bottles of wine. QE-7, Prin-
sengracht 411, tel. (+31) 203 44 64 08. Open 18:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA
Centrum
SIGHTSEEING
From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class
museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all.
BUILDINGS
BEURS VAN BERLAGE
Built over a period of years from 1898 - 1903, this massive
brick structure was the brainchild of visionary architect
H.P. Berlage. The monumental building would serve as in-
spiration for a whole new generation of architects whose
style became known as the Amsterdam School. The Stock
Exchange eventually moved and the Beurs van Berlage is
now home to events, conferences, lectures, concerts and
a good caf.QA-2, Damrak 277, tel. (+31) 206 20 47 01,
www.beursvanberlage.nl.
THE MINT TOWER (MUNTTOREN)
The Mint Tower is one of the citys most visible landmarks
and anyone who has visited the Flower Market or done
some shopping on the Kalverstraat has denitely noticed
this unique bell tower with a clock on each of its four sides.
Originally a gate called the Regulierspoort that was part of
Amsterdams fortied city wall, it was destroyed during a
re in 1618, but rebuilt two years later in Amsterdam Re-
naissance style by the eminent Dutch Golden Age archi-
tect Hendrick de Keyser.QB-3, Muntplein.
CANAL TOURS
AMSTERDAM CANAL CRUISES
This company has been giving tours of the Amster-
dam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from
the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..QG-8,
Stadhouderskade 550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www.
amsterdamcanalcruises.nl.
BLUE BOAT COMPANY
Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the high-
light of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys
best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15?
You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50)
and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your
signicant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise
(67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and lo-
cations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13
70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A
FLOATING DUTCHMAN
In roughly 90 minutes this bus tour covers some of the
city centres best sights, but unlike similar tours, the bus
drives into the water near the NEMO Science Center and
then continues the route as an amphibious vehicle. Youll
ride on the canals and the Amstel River and see lots more
sights before the vehicle eventually arrives on dry land
again. Tours begin at the Van Gogh Caf just opposite the
Central Station.QA-1, Prins Hendrikkade opp. 25, tel.
(+31) 205 30 10 90, www.foatingdutchman.nl. Tours:
CHURCHES
THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK)
Although no one knows for certain, its believed that
Amsterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was
erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of
the 14th century. The important edice wasnt only used
for religious purposes and often served as a safe for pre-
cious documents, a treasury and also a homeless shelter
as the citys indigent were allowed to spend the night here
until the Calvinists came to power in the 16th century. The
church was added onto over the centuries but eventually
ran out of space to grow and then it suered a huge blow
when protestant demonstrators looted churches across
the Netherlands in 1566 damaging priceless art works in
the process. The historic monument and its wooden ceil-
ing were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and
it was nally closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979
it was again opened to the public and is now one of the
citys most visited attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23,
tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.oudekerk.nl/infoeng.htm.
Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
5, children 12 and under free.
WESTERKERK
One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it
still tends to its Protestant ock to this day. Its Dutch Re-
naissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower em-
bellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian
soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished
painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is
quite sure exactly where, yet a plaque marks the approxi-
mate spot not far from his son Titus grave. Anyone famil-
iar with the story of Anne Frank also knows that she often
heard the bells from the church in her hidden annex only
a short distance away. The tower bell is the largest in the
Netherlands and weighs in at an impressive 7,500kg. Al-
though the church is also used as a concert hall, its closed
to visitors during the winter months. A statue of Anne
Frank and three triangular pink granite slabs dedicated to
persecuted gays are located putside.QE-5, Prinsengracht
281, www.westerkerk.nl. Open April - October 11:00 -
15:00. Tower admission: 6.
A canal boat tour is an absolute must!
Centrum
MUSEUMS
AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
Follow the development of this powerful port through
medieval artefacts and art from ancient shoes dating back
to the 14th century to period furniture and paintings col-
lected by wealthy Amsterdammers of the Golden Age. Fun
exhibits also highlight popular culture from lms about the
Ajax football club and a model of Hollands (and perhaps the
worlds) rst gay and lesbian bar, t Mandje, to interesting
facts about prostitution and the rst coeeshop. .QA-3,
Kalverstraat 92 / Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, tel. (+31)
205 23 18 22, www.amsterdammuseum.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00 Admission: adults 10, chil-
dren 6 - 18 years 5, children 5 and under free. BK
AMSTERDAM TULIP MUSEUM
Learn about the fascinating history of the tulip from its
humble origins along the Silk Road of Central Asia to its
current status as a somewhat common, mass-produced
ower that is still a cornerstone of the Dutch economy
and a symbol of national identity for the people of the
Netherlands. Discover how the word tulip was derived
from a simple misunderstanding and how the plant was
smuggled to Europe from the Turkish sultans royal court in
1555. The owner is passionate about the tulip and provides
a much-needed history of one of the nations most prof-
itable commodities.QE-5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31)
204 21 00 95, www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults 4, children free.
ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS)
There are very few people who arent acquainted with the
tragic story of Anne Frank a brave girl who dreamed of be-
coming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecution. The
diary of her time spent in the secret annex was published in
1947 and later translated in over 65 languages. The popularity
of her work is reected in the huge queues outside this mu-
seum that has been teaching Amsterdams visitors about the
Holocaust, the story of the Frank family and their desperate
struggle to survive and the evils of anti-Semitism and racism
since 1960.QE-5, Prinsengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56
71 05, www.annefrank.org. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00
- 22:00. Admission: adults 9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50,
children nine and under free. AKW
FOAM: PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
This classic Amsterdam canal house on the Keizersgracht
is home to the FOAM museum, which is actually more of
photography exhibition hall for both famous names and
newcomers. Although modernised and upgraded to serve
its purpose of displaying cutting edge photographs, many
of the buildings original elements, like the marble oors,
have been preserved for posterity. Exhibitions change
quite frequently so check its website for the latest infor-
mation. A great shop selling truly interesting photography
books is also available on the ground oor.QG-7, Keiz-
ersgracht 609, tel. (+31) 205 51 65 00, www.foam.org.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Admission:
adults 8.75, students 6, children under 12 free. W
Centrum
HET GRACHTENHUIS
Although the city oers other Golden Age museums that
display renovated or reconstructed 17th-century interiors,
Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development of the city
during its most prosperous era with a variety of modern
multimedia experiences and lms on the top oors of the
building, while still showing o its antique grandeur of
marble foyers, period furniture and paintings by illustrious
Dutch artists. Watch the Beatles taking a tour of the city on
a canal boat, peer into a dollhouse and watch a hologram
of typical city life or just admire the dcor of a protected
monument designed by one of the Netherlands best ar-
chitects.QF-7, Herengracht 386, www.hetgrachtenhuis.
nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults
12, children 6 - 18 years 6. A
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM)
The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to 1914
knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived onboard
for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of the land-
lubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum which
receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are curious to
see how people can use a boat as a permanent residence.
View pictures and scale models and discover interesting
facts about the waterways of the city such as the average
depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m). A childrens cor-
ner is available where the little tykes can draw boats and
you can also enjoy a cappuccino or a cup of tea in the living
room.QE-6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50,
www.houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: adults 3.75, children 3.
KATTEN KABINET
Lets face it. There are dog people and there are cat peo-
ple. The eccentric owner of this unusual museum is most
denitely the latter. Over the years a huge collection of
paintings, sculpture, 100-year-old advertising posters, por-
celain gurines and other objects related to cats has been
displayed on four oors in this historic canal house on the
Herengracht that boasts antique furniture, original parquet
oors and ceiling murals. Naturally, a real cat also lives in the
house and can often be seen napping or lounging in the
sunlight near the windows.QG-7, Herengracht 497, tel.
(+31) 206 26 53 78, www.kattenkabinet.nl. Open 10:00
- 16:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 6, chil-
dren 4 - 12 years 3, children 3 and under free. A
MUSEUM GEELVINCK
Enter the building and walk through the beautiful garden
to reach this hidden gem of a canal house. Original Golden
Age furniture, frescos, musical instruments and marble
oors are all available for your perusal in four rooms on the
ground oor while the cellar hosts exhibitions like the cur-
rent Treasure from Indonesia which will be open to the pub-
lic until October. Most of the exhibits are only available in
Dutch but you can read a brochure about the building to
get the gist of things.QG-7, Keizersgracht 633, tel. (+31)
207 15 59 00, www.museumgeelvinck.nl. Open 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: adult 8, children 6 - 18
years 4, children 5 and under free.
MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES
What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blos-
somed into the worlds largest collection of handbags
and purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years.
Located in a prestigious 17th-century home that once be-
longed to the then mayor of Amsterdam, the museum be-
gins on the top oor where you can view satchels, boxes
and letter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from
every material imaginable including ivory, tortoiseshell,
leather, lace, silk, straw and wood. 20th-century exhibits
include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made from
exotic animals like ostriches, crocodiles and, yes, even
armadillos. A large collection of famous designer bags is
also on display including labels like Louis Vuitton, Pierre
Cardin, Versace, Dior, Gucci, D&G and many others while
contemporary exhibitions are on view on the ground oor.
QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www.
museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK
MUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN
This beautiful 17th-century canal house and museum is
located only a short walk from Rembrandtplein. It was
donated to the city in 1895 by the last childless member
of the family, Mrs. Willet-Holthuysen, and has been a mu-
seum ever since. Although it was damaged in WWII, it was
renovated and re-opened in 1950. The top oor is more or
less an exhibit displaying many of the unique art objects
and antiquities collected by Abraham Willet on his exten-
sive 19th-century travels and the magnicent manicured
garden is also open to the public.QH-6, Herengracht 605,
tel. (+31) 205 23 18 22, www.willetholthuysen.nl. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 8,
children 6 - 18 years 4, children 5 and under free.
PIANOLA MUSEUM
Although its one of the worlds more recent instruments,
this music machine has its own museum located in the
cells of an old police station in the Jordaan. The museum
houses a collection of automatic pianos and related ob-
jects and the museum archive stores over 25,000 music
rolls. Nearly all of them can be played on dierent instru-
ments in the museum.QE-5, Westerstraat 106, tel. (+31)
206 27 96 24, www.pianola.nl. Open Sun 14:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 5, children 3. TL
Displays ar the Museum of Bags and Purses
Centrum
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK
PALEIS AMSTERDAM)
Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the
building was rst opened to the public as the Town Hall in
1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdi-
nand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth
wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal
residence in 1808 when he briey served as the King of
Holland, but it later became the possession of the House
of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors
youll nally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw
is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much pol-
ished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crystal
chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered in
frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and as-
tronomical charts in the oor. QA-2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206
20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 10, children under 18 free.
THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM
Apart from the pleasant eects that it can have on your
mood and state of mind, cannabis has a thousand uses
you probably never heard of. During Hollands Golden
Age, Dutch East India Company ships made their ropes
and sails from hemp, while today hemp bre is still one
of the most durable and easy to use materials available for
making clothing. The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum
displays the history of industrial hemp in its gallery, while
its main collection consists of items related to the history
of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and its medici-
nal benets. Ancient hash pipes, 17th-century paintings
of medieval Dutchmen getting high, cinema posters of
Cheech and Chong, a guitar made of hemp and hundreds
of other unusual items make this a fascinating place to
visit. A small shop selling gifts and cannabis seeds is also
attached to the museum.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburg-
wal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission: adults 9, children
under 13 free.
VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON)
This magnicent building owned by the Van Loon family
trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few re-
maining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes
in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt ap-
prentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to dierent owners over the centuries until
it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose
most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of
the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening
up their home to show o its splendour and this tradition
has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, pe-
riod furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular
wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spa-
cious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam.
QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.
museumvanloon.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission: 7.
PLACES OF INTEREST
BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT)
Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque ca-
nals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest
and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such
as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its exis-
tence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds
of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up
shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the
atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny
little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between
the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)
The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning
market in one. Although its often called the worlds only
oating ower market, most of the browsing takes place
on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on
the Singel and although its quite attractive when walking
past, its actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from the
other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds for
all kinds of plants and owers and we have to admit that
weve also picked up a Venus ytrap kit here, which was a
huge hit with kids at home. Locals also buy owers here so
the prices are actually quite reasonable. There are plenty
of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B-
3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A
STATUES & MONUMENTS
NATIONAL MONUMENT
Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square
thats often occupied by people of all ages and nation-
alities sunning themselves, reading books or just relax-
ing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P.
Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monument made of white
travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all
Dutch men and women who suered under the Nazi oc-
cupation of the Netherlands and to the nations liberation.
The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m.QA-2, Dam.
The picturesque Brouwersgracht M.Zaprauskis
Centrum
PLANTAGE SIGHTSEEING
The Plantage has an incredible concentration of muse-
ums, historical monuments, cutting-edge architecture and
beautiful parkland all in one neighbourhood.
ARTIS ROYAL ZOO
Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in
the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna
and 200 species of ora. The sprawling park not only oers
a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but
also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum.
Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live out-
doors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japa-
nese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants,
bualo and giraes in their enclosures or head over to the
top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises
and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the In-
sect House. QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31) 90
02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admis-
sion: adults 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Am-
sterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style
building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for
poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009, the build-
ing has hosted periodic themed exhibitions that display
some of the Hermitages most prized possessions from
stunningly preserved artefacts of the ancient world to
masterpieces of European art. The Hermitage is currently
hosting an exhibition entitled Expedition Silk Road that
will be on display until September 5, 2014.QH-6, Amstel
51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and
under free. AU
HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS (HORTUS BO-
TANICUS AMSTERDAM)
Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the
Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists,
botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it
one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only
a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000
species of plants from around the globe throughout its
gardens and greenhouses, nearly all of which are open to
the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest
of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship
centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856.
You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful
owers, carnivorous orae, a rare Australian pine thought
extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if al-
lowed to grow on its own, might just change the citys sky-
line in a few generations. You can also walk through the
tropical and desert greenhouses, but dont miss the but-
tery house. QH-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31)
206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50,
children 4 and under free. HEK
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
(NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM)
In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the
wealthiest and most important nations in the world
and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess.
No other country in the world had as many ships sailing
the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renova-
tions, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates
how the sea has dened Dutch culture. Stimulating, in-
teractive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to
life. The signicance of this industry in the modern age
is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Chil-
dren will also love the museum, especially the replica of
the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI-4,
Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31)
205 23 22 13, info@hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl, www.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis-
sion: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener-
ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65 billion-
year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel and
act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change
in the future with new and advanced technologies; and
lots of other interesting stu. You can also bring your own
lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the
top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A
good museum shop is also available where you can buy
science experiments and other fun souvenirs for kids.
Special activities are planned from April 27 - May 4.QH-
4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.
nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon
During dutch school holidays and in May, June, July
and August also open on Monday (10-17.30h). Closed
at December 25, January 1 and Dutch Kingsday. Dur-
ing the months June, July and August, our roof and the
caf are open from 10 till -19h. Admission: 15, children
under four free. Closed April 26 for Kings Day. AK
View of Science Center NEMO DigiDaan
Centrum
THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands
most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum
of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer was con-
tent to make 300 guilders in a year. An audio guide will
take you through the house, which is reconstructed to
look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of
his career. Sta also demonstrate how etchings were mass-
produced using copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat
4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 17
years 3, children 5 and under free. A
JEWISH AMSTERDAM
PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE
Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for Jews
to call home in medieval times, but no city was more toler-
ant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the 17th-cen-
tury. Work was completed on this synagogue in 1675 and
since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in Am-
sterdam. The synagogue was completely restored in 2011
and now its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial
objects are open to the public as well as Ets Haim, the old-
est functioning Jewish library in the world dating to 1616.
QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.
portugesesynagoge.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17
6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAU
THE 1ST KINGS DAY
Queens Day has traditionally
been celebrated on April 30
each year throughout the
entire Netherlands, but Am-
sterdam is the best place to
enjoy the incredible festivi-
ties. Its essentially a massive
outdoor street party where
youll see locals (many in-
ebriated) dressed in Dutch
orange lining the citys ca-
nals or manning boats on the waterways.
Although the Dutch have celebrated Queens Day since
the late 19th century, when it was called Princess Day,
it became Queens Day in 1948 when Queen Juliana
ascended the throne. This years celebrations will be
all the more festive, because Willem-Alexanders was
ocially crowned as King of the Netherlands one year
ago on April 30, 2013. Therfore the new holiday is now
known as Koningsdag or Kings Day and in the future
will be celebrated a few days earlier on April 27, the
kings birthday. However, this years celebration will
be held on April 26 just to confuse you a little more.
If youre in Amsterdam on this day then dont forget to
wear something orange and get ready to party!
Centrum
SHOPPING
You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalver-
straat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or nd something
exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt.
BEER & WINE SHOPS
DE BIERKONING
With roughly 1100 beers from Europe and the States available
on the premises, this brew shop is probably the best stocked
of its genre in Amsterdam. It also sells some cider and loads of
souvenir beer glasses.QA-2, Paleisstraat 125, tel. (+31) 206
25 23 36, www.bierkoning.nl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon
13:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
ANTIQUES & ART
KRAMER KUNST & ANTIEK
Old delftware tiles, vases and other antiques including
jewellery and glassware.QG-7, Prinsengracht 807, tel.
(+31) 206 26 11 16, www.antique-tileshop.nl. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
SILKWOOD ANTIQUES
Delft tiles, fabric, paintings, jewellery, prints and furniture.
QF-8, Spiegelgracht 30, tel. (+31) 653 86 22 70. Open
12:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
BOOKS
THE BOOK EXCHANGE
Secondhand English-language books from tcion and
history to current events for good prices. Book exchanges
also available. QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal 58, tel. (+31)
206 26 62 66, www.bookexchange.nl. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00.
WATERSTONES
An outstanding selection of English language literature
including books on travel, history and politics not to men-
tion contemporary ction, classic novels, magazines and
newspapers on four oors.QA-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel.
(+31) 206 38 38 21, www.waterstones.nl. Open 09:30 -
18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
CHEESE
AMSTERDAMS KAASHUIS
Although it looks like a tourist trap, where else can you
watch cheese being made in the centre of Amsterdam?
Cheese, chocolates and other souvenirs are sold here and
its also a good place to taste cheese for free.QA-1, Har-
ingpakkerssteeg 10, tel. (+31) 206 24 10 06. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. A
REYPENAER
Buy exclusive aged Dutch cheeses or come to one of its or-
ganised tastings for only 10.QE-5, Singel 182, tel. (+31)
203 20 63 33, www.reypenaer.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
DELFTWARE
RINASCIMENTO DELFTWARE
Across the canal from the Westerkerk, this ocial Delft-
ware factory dealer sells everything from plates, tiles and
vases to beautiful Christmas ornaments the perfect sou-
venir.QE-5, Prinsengracht 170, tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09,
www.delft-art-gallery.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. A
DEPARTMENT STORES
DE BIJENKORF
This posh department store on Dam Square oers two ca-
fes, a restaurant, men and womens fashion, homewares
and lots of other upmarket shopping on six oors. The
place to go for the expensive brands like Vuitton, Fendi
and Hermes.QA-2, Dam 1, www.debijenkorf.nl. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 -
21:00, Sat 09:30 - 19:00. AK
MARKETS
NOORDERMARKT (BOERENMARKT)
Every Saturday this market in the Jordaan district positively
teems with life. Located on a lovely square in the shadow
of the unusual octagonal Norderkerk (North Church), you
can browse through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing,
sausages, fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food
and fashion. If youre into seafood dont miss the oyster
stall where the friendly purveyor will prepare the tasty del-
icacies on the half shell to be consumed right on the spot.
QE-4, Noordermarkt, www.boerenmarktamsterdam.
nl. Open , Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
MUSIC SHOPS
CONCERTO
Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest col-
lection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread
out across ve buildings: one for classical, another for
world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated
to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs.
Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23
52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
Lots of bulbs at the Flower Market
Centrum Map
Centrum Map
Nieuw-West
In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate
need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden
suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the rst of ve new neigh-
bourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. To-
day, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld
and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A
spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of
these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peace-
ful waters of the Sloterplas lake.
ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST
Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan,
which has great connections with Central Station and
Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest
way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at
Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations
in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West in-
cluding No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer),
No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and
No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14
(Dam), depart from Central Station.
ACCOMMODATION
BEST WESTERN BLUE SQUARE HOTEL
Although Best Westerns have a reputation for oering
fairly standard, aordable accommodation, Blue Square
has separated itself from the pack by focusing on modern
ways to minimise its carbon footprint including the use of
solar panels and other green, energy saving measures. This
has earned them the right to call themselves a Green Key
hotel a prestigious title for environmentally sound ac-
commodation. 175 singles, doubles, triples and quads are
available with at screen TVs, free wireless internet access,
safe, coee/tea sets, air conditioning and private bath-
rooms. Some also have views of the Erasmus Canal. A res-
taurant serving lunch and French and Chinese cuisine for
dinner is also available and a tram stop is a short walk away.
QN-2, Slotermeerlaan 80, tel. (+31) 205 06 37 17, www.
bluesquarehotel.nl. 175 rooms (singles, doubles, triples
and quads from 109). PALGKW hhhh
DUTCH DESIGN HOTEL ARTEMIS
Other Amsterdam hotels may claim to be boutique or
design hotels, but this incredibly modern building has
been created from top to bottom solely by Dutch design-
ers and artists. Everything in this hotel incorporates some
aspect of inspiring new Dutch design from its 256 rooms
and 11 meeting rooms to the food and cocktails served at
its fantastic restaurant and bar, De Stijl. The accommoda-
tion is luxurious to say the least with modern, yet natural
furnishings, oor-to-ceiling windows and standard ameni-
ties such as wi- and large at screen TVs. Naturally, art is
displayed throughout the hotel and it also oers a great
summer terrace on the water.QN-4, John M.Keynesplein
2, tel. (+31) 207 14 10 00, www.artemisamsterdam.com.
256 rooms (superior from 89, business from 139).
PiTHAUFLGBKXW hhhh
FOOD & DRINK
Nieuw-West has a bit of everything from trendy hotel res-
taurants and simple takeaway joints to ethnic eating expe-
riences like popular Chinese and Turkish cuisine as well as
more exotic fare such as Libyan and Moroccan.
DE HALVE MAEN
Just opposite Nieuw-Wests biggest tourist attraction, the
Sloten windmill, youll nd yet another crowd pleaser: De
Halve Maen (The Half Moon). This historic pub wouldnt look
out of place in the English countryside with its cosy furnish-
ings, warm atmosphere and attentive and friendly sta who
make sure that virtually everyone leaves here in a good mood.
Although the surroundings and the building are typically
Dutch, the menu is varied and includes a bit of everything.
QM-4, Sloterweg 1345, tel. (+31) 206 15 38 21, www.
dehalvemaen.com. (5 - 20) TALGBKX
SKYY BAR
On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most
evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular
haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.
The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure
paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the
fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its a
good place to visit even if you just want to have a look at
the beautiful girls in sexy outts while sipping a cocktail or
some champagne. QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelsstraat 1, tel.
(+31) 208 10 08 00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AULGKW
SYRIANA
Just as Amsterdam is a melting pot of dierent cultures,
so is Syriana. Thousands of Arabs live in this city and its
near surroundings, so its a no-brainer that it should have a
proper restaurant serving Syrian, Lebanese, Egyptian and
Iraqi cuisine, but youll have to travel a ways to nd it. Well
give you a hint. Just look for a cheese factory and a wind-
mill. An eastern atmosphere prevails here and you can
enjoy an Arab-style high tea, water pipes and even belly
dancers at the weekend.QAkersluis 8, tel. (+31) 206 69
09 03, www.syriana.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (16 - 21).
PTAULGBKX
Unusual architecture at the Schutterstoren
Nieuw-West
SIGHTSEEING
Although Nieuw-West is a fairly new district of Amsterdam,
having only been created in the 1950s, it has more than its
fair share of sights and attractions. You can take your pick
of parks and gardens including the central Sloterpark and
its large lake or visit one of Amsterdams most impressive
windmills, which is open to the public every day. Nieuw-
West also has no shortage of modern architecture.
BREWERY TOURS
BROUWERIJ DE 7 DEUGDEN
Amsterdams latest addition to the beer brewing industry
is brouwerij De 7 Deugden (The 7 Virtues), which is tucked
away on the outskirts of New-West. Although all of the
machinery and equipment doesnt occupy more space
than a large garage, the beer is simply wonderful. Owner
Garmt is one of those guys who could no longer resist
the tempting call from his inner self and wed just like to
personally thank the beer gods for this fortuitous wake-up
call. His contribution to a happier life for Amsterdammers
is a selection of six beers, all of which have a unique taste.
The seventh brew, which makes the name of this brewery
sound more logical, is a seasonal beer. If youd like to take
a tour of the place you have to call ahead and arrive in a
group of at least four people. For 5/person you can taste
all six regular brews served with three types of cheeses.
QL-2, Osdorperweg 578 achter, tel. (+31) 651 64 81
15, www.de7deugden.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Mon, Fri
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ULNS
BUILDINGS
SLOTEN WINDMILL (MOLEN VAN SLOTEN)
Nearly 100 years ago, the Netherlands boasted over 10,000
windmills. This invention, which was originally Japanese, is
now internationally associated with Holland. Unfortunate-
ly, less than 1,000 are left, but several are still located on
the outskirts of Amsterdam and the surrounding region.
One of the most beautiful ones, Molen van Sloten, is lo-
cated at a picturesque spot on the edge of Nieuw-West.
This type of windmill, called a Stellingmolen, was used to
keep the water level low in the neighbouring areas. Its
also the only windmill in Amsterdam which is open every
day and even the disabled can take a tour of this beau-
tiful building from 1846 by taking the lift to the upper
oors. QM-4, Akersluis 10, tel. (+31) 206 69 04 12, www.
molenvansloten.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. T
THE 1800 RODS (DE 1800 ROEDEN)
The strategically located De 1800 Roeden (The 1800 Rods)
was actually built in 1900 as a part of the Stelling van
Amsterdam military defence line. These days the former
ammunition arsenal happens to function as a breeding
ground for creativity. Although its chief purpose was once
the citys defence, these remarkable buildings have now
been converted into modern oces and workshops.QL-
2, Joris van de Berghweg 101-111, www.1800roeden.nl.
CHURCHES
SLOTERKERK
The history of this neo-classicist Protestant church begins
in the late 12th century when a simple brick structure was
erected just north of the village square. This rst church
didnt survive the Eighty Years War, as it was burned
down by rebelling Geuzen in 1573. A new church was built
roughly a century later, but it fell into disrepair and had to
be rebuilt for a second time in 1861. Interestingly, Dutch
master Rembrandt van Rijn made three drawings of the
former church. Today the Sloterkerk is home to an active
Protestant congregation, but only opens its doors for ser-
vices. Guided tours can be arranged for groups if you make
an appointment in advance.QM-4, Osdorperweg 28, tel.
(+31) 206 19 71 01, www.sloterkerk.nl. L
PARKS & GARDENS
LAKE SLOTERPLAS (SLOTERPLAS)
The history of the Sloterplas goes back centuries. In 1644,
the Slootermeer, a shallow peat lake, was reclaimed with the
help of windmills. Over 300 years later the reclaimed land
was dug up and once again turned into a lake as part of the
1935 General Expansion Plan for the area. The excavation
was necessary to raise the surrounding area so new housing
estates like Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart and Osdorp
could be built. It also made it possible to create a large park
and recreation area in the middle of the new neighbour-
hoods. The fertile top soil of peat and clay was used to raise
the area around the lake. The Sloterplas is a popular body
of water, especially on the southeastern side, for sailing, ca-
noeing, shing and diving.QM-3, Sloterplas.
REMBRANDT PARK (REMBRANDTPARK)
One of Hollands most famous painters, Rembrandt van
Rijn, had a park named after him centuries after his death.
This spacious green space is located at the border be-
tween the old city and the estates of the 1950s and 1960s.
The park is cut in half by the Postjesweg and the many
lakes and open elds that surround it create a relaxed and
peaceful atmosphere. A great variety of sculpture, a zoo
and the best kids playground in Amsterdam are just some
of the attractions of this central urban oasis.QN-3, Ortel-
iuskade, www.rembrandtpark.org.
Hanging around at the Natuurspeeltuin in Nieuw-West
Noord
SYMBOL KEY
S Takeaway W Wi
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large
numbers of nancially challenged people exacerbating the
stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest
administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one
of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and
more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits
of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've
put together a small guide to this interesting urban and ru-
ral zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you
need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Cen-
tral Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore
Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a
boat that oers an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some
cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim
trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools
or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the siz-
zling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There
are three dierent ferries that will take you over the River IJ
in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord
completely free of charge. The departure landing is located
just behind the Central Station.
ACCOMMODATION
From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels,
the north side of the River IJ has plenty to oer.
UPMARKET
NH GALAXY AMSTERDAM
The recently renovated NH Galaxy Hotel is true to its name,
because the worlds at your feet in this four-star hotel. The
breakfast buet is well stocked and the spacious rooms not
only have cutting-edge interior design, but are also tted
with king-sized beds and luxurious bathrooms. The friendly
sta and its private parking also add extra value to this de-
sign hotel and thanks to the shuttle bus, which is free of
charge, the centre of Amsterdam is only a short ride away.
If you dont like the idea of going too far from the hotel at
night, theres actually plenty on oer in the way of recreation
and restaurants in the direct vicinity of the hotel.QM-2, Dis-
telkade 21, tel. (+31) 206 34 43 66, www.nh-hotels.com.
PTHAUFLGBKXwW hhhh
MID-RANGE
BASTION DELUXE HOTEL AMSTERDAM / CEN-
TRUM - NOORD
Located next to the Volewijkspark and the Vliegenbos nature
area of Amsterdam Noord, youre never far from ora and
fauna when you stay at the Bastion Hotel. Standard rooms
live up to their modest name and include TV, safe, private
bathrooms and coee/tea sets, while deluxe rooms oer a bit
more space and have the added advantage of a mini-bar. Al-
though wi- is available throughout the hotel for free, guests
also have access to a computer in the lobby. A restaurant, bar
and smoking lounge are also at your disposal.QM-3, Rode
Kruisstraat 28, tel. (+31) 206 32 31 31, www.bastionhotels.
nl. 68 rooms. ALGKXW hhh
HOTEL DE OUDE TAVEERNE
De Oude Taveerne exudes nostalgia. Most of the seventeen
rooms have been furnished stylishly, but only a few have the
picture perfect view of the IJsselmeer. All rooms have been
equipped with modern amenities, although the bathrooms
are quite small and the steep stairs leading to the rooms are
not easily accessible for everyone. The restaurant is rusti-
cally decorated and includes an eye-catching 100-year-old
beer tap and beautiful murals. In short, the past is brought
to life in this distinctive building dating from 1760.QN-5,
Durgerdammerdijk 73, tel. (+31) 204 90 42 59, www.
deoudetaveerne.nl. 17 rooms (16 doubles and 1 family
from 119). TAGBKXW
BOTELS
AMSTEL BOTEL
This ship is safely moored at the NDSM pier. In the past
this colossus was a riverboat and most guests spent their
time on deck. If you simply need somewhere to crash after
a night on the town, this is the place. Small cabins with
thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms come standard
at this botel. The lack of luxury and privacy may not be to
everyones liking, but if you need relatively cheap accom-
modation and you dont mind living on the water, book a
room at the back where you have a great view of the River
IJ. QM-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42 47, www.
amstelbotel.nl. 175 rooms (157 doubles 60 - 120, 18
triples 89 - 150). PTALGBKXW
The famous Admiral Windmill in Noord
Noord
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
NEW
BROOKLYN HOTEL
Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss
as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf
that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of
the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation
decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that
includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access,
mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to men-
tion incredible views. We particularly liked the room where
you can shower and look out the oor-to-ceiling glass win-
dow. If luxury and style are important then Brooklyn wont
disappoint.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06
66, www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard doubles
from 89, deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW
BED & BREAKFAST
B&B DE NOORDERLING
For short stays this cosy garden home located in a quiet
residential area is a good option, but we have to warn you
that the rooms are a little cramped. The beds are comfort-
able and it has its own dining area and a private terrace,
but the toilet and shower are shared. The fully equipped
kitchen is also at your disposal, but save some space for
the abundant breakfast in the morning as the owner is a
professional chef and he goes out of his way to please you
with his culinary know how.QM-3, Stoombootweg 100,
tel. (+31) 206 22 16 70, www.denoorderling.nl. (single
50, double 65). TLGBW
B&B DURGERDAM COUNTRYSIDE
Durgerdam is a picturesque village only a 30-minutes bike
ride from central Amsterdam and this friendly B&B is located
at the edge of the village facing the natural beauty of the
protected Wetlands. Lots of space will make you feel at home
and you can either stay in the large studio at the back of the
owners house or in a separate holiday home in the garden.
Both have a private garden next to a wide ditch, which is great
if youre travelling with kids. Breakfast is served each morning
but you can also cook your own meals.QN-5, Durgerdam-
mergouw 35, tel. (+31) 204 28 66 15, www.bbdurgerdam.
nl. 2 rooms (80 - 100). TLGBDXW
B&B KWINT
For 10 years now owner Lia has run this colourful B&B in an
historic doctors surgery that has been transformed into
accommodation with a wide variety of dierent artistic
styles. The specially designed rooms havent escaped this
charming womans passion for collecting either. The rural
atmosphere, the friendly host, the extensive breakfast
and the magnicent garden make a lasting impression on
every one of its guests. Kwint is a place youll remember
for a long time and will return to one day, if only in your
thoughts.QL-1, Kometensingel 187, tel. (+31) 206 31 49
30, www.bbkwint.nl. 3 rooms (violet room 50, blue
bridal room 90, studio 100). TLNGBX
CAFS
Noord is very popular with Amsterdam hipsters, so it will
come as no surprise that the area has loads of great cafs.
(B)BROOD NDSM
Strolling around Amsterdam theres a good chance that
youve spotted one of the outlets of this small chain of
bakeries. Our favourite of these happens to be the (B)Brood
at the ferry terminal of the NDSM-wharf. Three oors have
been decorated with a mix of graphic art, bright, splashy
colours and an abundance of fresh owers. The rooftop ter-
race oers great views of the IJ and the Russian submarine
thats moored right outside. Downstairs at the counter youll
encounter the addictive aroma of freshly baked buns, pas-
tries and bread.QN-2, Ms van Riemsdijkweg 30, tel. (+31)
206 33 10 89, www.bbrood.nl. Open 07:45 - 18:30, Sat,
Sun 09:45 - 18:00. TJA6LGBKXSW
CAFE T SLUISJE
This remarkable building is located in one of the most
scenic areas of Amsterdam-Noord. At a intersection of
age-old water routes that farmers once used to bring their
milk to the centre of town by boat, passers-by can now
enjoy a cup of coee or a glass of Nobeltje, a liqueur from
the island of Ameland. The menu is completely contem-
porary with chic dishes like warm goats cheese salad and
smoked salmon with capers. Make sure you get here early,
as the large garden and terrace on the dike ll up quickly.
QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel. (+31) 206 36 17 12,
www.hetsluisje.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB
JACQUES JOUR
The sunbathed terrace is reason enough to take a free
ferry across the River IJ, but if youre more interested in the
food then this trendy caf wont disappoint. A full three-
course meal is served every day at noon in a colourful and
relaxed setting decorated with a number of arty touches.
The chefs do a wonderful job of integrating regional in-
gredients like Dutch asparagus and other local delicacies
with international recipes that will have you coming back
for more.QN-2, Meidoornweg 2, tel. (+31) 204 94 06 84,
www.jacquesjour.nl. Open 12:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:30 -
18:00. (12 - 14). iAGBKX
Spend a relaxing day in Amsterdam Noord
Noord
BIRTPLACE OF AJAX
Over the years many districts in Amsterdam have been
home to Ajax, the Dutch capitals football giant. Most die-
hard fans believe that De Meer, which has now been de-
molished, was the best location. On the other hand, the
current stadium - the Amsterdam Arena - has become
a virtual Mecca for football enthusiasts. That said, few
people realise that Amsterdam-North is the true cradle
of this world famous club.
Footh-Ball Club Ajax - with its original spelling mistake
- was forced to leave its playing eld at the end of the
Overtoom Road in 1900, because the pitch was to be-
come a new neighbourhood of residential homes. The
club decided to change its name (dropping the spelling
mistake) into Football Club Ajax and rented a pitch on
the Middenweg - now called the Hagedoornweg - on
an empty polder in Buiksloterham in Amsterdam-North.
Amsterdam North became the home turf of Ajax, which
was still relatively unknown in the early 20th century.
Many supporters still regard the rst pitch in North, lo-
cated at what is currently called the Hagedoornweg, the
place where it all started. All home games were played
on this simple eld. Later Ajax moved to another pitch
in North. With this location came creature comforts like
changing rooms for the players in what could best be
described as a vacant shed. Unfortunately, the location
wasnt the best as the players had to walk at least 15
minutes from the ferry landing to the ground. (Photo:
Ajax archives)
In 1901 Ajax moved again, but this time to the Laanweg,
which was much closer to the ferry. Unfortunately it had
no changing shed, so the boys had to rough it again.
Many supporters loved the adventure of taking the ferry
to the home games, as North was considered to be out
in the sticks. But once again Ajax left for greener pitches
in 1907, due to the building of a new housing estate,
which marked the end of Ajaxs adolescence in North.
AFC Ajax later reached their full potential at De Meer and
the Amsterdam Arena.
RESTAURANTS
Noord has a little something for everyone from ultra hip
ne dining to a boat that serves pancakes.
ASIAN
MEI WAH
Like many Asian restaurants in the Netherlands, Mei Wah
oers a mixture of Chinese and Indonesian cuisine. Most
customers order takeaway, but the restaurant is also a
good place to enjoy a plate of nasi or a Cantonese egg foo
young. In fact, the elegantly decorated restaurant is pretty
much the exact opposite of the shopping centre in which
its housed. Vegetarians should be vigilant as weve heard
rumours that small pieces of pork or chicken have been
found in some of the supposedly meatless dishes.QM-3,
Buikslotermeerplein 102, tel. (+31) 206 37 07 85, www.
meiwah.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (15 -
20). VGKS
FAST FOOD
HARING NAATJE
If youre brave enough to try Dutch raw herring for the rst
time, theres no better place lose your virginity than at this
authentic local sh stall. Its traditional, not only due to its
Dutch ag decorations, but also because all of the sea-
food sold here is fresh and caught in the North Sea. If the
thought of raw herring stimulates your gag reex, order
the kibbeling (deep fried cod) or smoked mackerel.QN-
3, Purmerplein. Open Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 17:30, Sat
10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (2 - 3). T6S
PIETJE FRIETJE
In our opinion theres nothing wrong with evening out
your cholesterol level after a long day of walking and
sightseeing. Pietje Frietje, an old-fashioned snackbar con-
veniently located in a grass eld at the corner of Schaaf-
straat and the busy Meeuwenlaan, is a good place to start.
All of the usual fries, croquettes and other deep fried foods
can be enjoyed in the open air, which is precisely what lots
of cyclists do while cruising around Amsterdam Noord.
QN-3, Meeuwenlaan. (2 - 3). 6BS
Drop anchor at one of Noords waterside cafs
Noord
INDONESIAN
PUSPITA
Virtually every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stued
full of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pic-
tures of rice elds. Fortunately Puspita is one of the rare
exceptions. On the other hand, the interior puts one in
mind of a bourgeois Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs
and horrible lace curtains. As far as food goes, however,
this small restaurant gets top marks and the rice table is
brilliant and better than what passes for traditional Indo-
nesian cuisine in the centre of town. You do need to go
through a bit more eort to walk across the red carpet, but
the ever enthusiastic sta will see you o when you leave.
We recommend the bakso ikan sh soup.QN-3, Purmer-
plein 5, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 15. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (8
- 15). TLGKS
INTERNATIONAL
DE SOEPBOER
Given its unusual name, the Soup Farmer, it comes as no
surprise that this place specialises in liquid lunches also
known as soups. Only local, seasonal ingredients are
used, but youll nd a wide variety of international recipes
here from Russian borscht and Tuscan shepherds stew to
hearty Georgian harcho soup. You can also try a number
of fresh pastries and salads and all of the food it serves can
also be bought as takeaway.QN-2, Van der Pekstraat 93,
tel. (+31) 203 54 15 64, www.desoepboer.nl. Open 11:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. The restaurant is closed each
summer for one month. (4 - 8). TBS
EETCAF HET DIJKHUIS
More than a century ago the horses used by stage coaches
received a well-deserved rest here. As their owners also
fancied some food and a drink, the Dijkhuis was set up
as a tavern. The view of the canal and the elds from the
enormous terrace or the spacious conservatory is simply
fabulous and the disinterested sta serve an assortment
of international dishes.QL-3, Kanaaldijk 119, Watergang,
tel. (+31) 204 03 13 86, www.eetcafedijkhuis.nl. Open
17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
(18 - 22). TALGBKX
EYE BAR-RESTAURANT
This restaurant is located inside the impressive EYE lm in-
stitute. The terrace provides incredible views of the River IJ
and the wait sta are friendly and attentive, but the food
isnt as impressive as the building in which this establish-
ment is housed. Although the homemade croquettes are
really delicious. The EYE Bar-Restaurant is in fact more of a
restaurant than a bar, although wed feel more comfortable
recommending it as a good place to have a beer or a cock-
tail. In any case, even if youre not planning to eat or drink
here, the modern building in the shape of an eye is worth a
visit.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 02, www.
eyebarrestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 -
23:30. (10 - 15). PTJAULGBKXW
WILHELMINA-DOK
If youd like to admire one of the most beautiful views of
Amsterdam by night, you should reserve a table next to the
large windows of this restaurant that looks like someones
living room. That said, the wide terrace is also an ideal spot
to have a cocktail or a cool white beer (the Secret of the
Smit) with some snacks or small dishes like roasted pump-
kin and outstanding goats cheese. Sadly, the main courses
arent as good as the appetisers, but did we mention that
Wilhelmina-Dok has incredible views?QN-2, Noordwal 1,
tel. (+31) 206 32 37 01, www.wilhelmina-dok.nl. Open
11:00 - 24:00. (16 - 18). TAULBKW
JAPANESE
OSAKA
Osakas only possible drawback is its location. If this Japa-
nese restaurant were housed in a building in the centre of
Amsterdam it would be overwhelmed with truckloads of
tourists. The sushi is extraordinarily delicious and all of its in-
gredients are fresh and not prepared in advance. The food is
served by professional and unfailingly friendly sta and the
restaurant is decorated in a much more tasteful manner than
most comparable Asian establishments. The seating area at
the back is denitely our favorite.QM-3, Rode Kruisstraat
22A, tel. (+31) 206 32 23 80, www.osaka-amsterdam.
com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. TALGKXS
NEPALESE
MT. EVEREST
The Nepalese are among the most hospitable people in
Asia and this holds true for the sta of this genuine Nep-
alese restaurant. Anyone whos ever visited the Himalayas
will realise that only a handful of the spicy dishes on the are
suitable for the western palates. Try delicious thalis and cur-
ries or the kukhura ko masu (with chicken bones) and wash
it down with a refreshing Gurkha, the dark beer enjoyed
by some of the worlds best trained soldiers. The dcor of
Mt. Everest is typically Nepalese and the room is decorated
with hundreds of colourful prayer ags, pictures of the high-
est mountain in the world and loads of burning candles.
QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 3, tel. (+31) 206 32 60 55, www.
mteverest.nl. Open 15:00 - 22:30. TLGKS
The gorgeous terrace at the EYE Film Institute
Noord
NIGHTLIFE
Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if
youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists,
Noord might be the place for you.
CAFE BASCULE
Dutch insiders will notice the typical Amsterdam accent
spoken here, the unmistakable songs of folk singer Andr
Hazes played here and the slight dislike for everyone who
isnt born in Amsterdam oozing from the sta and patrons
at Cafe Bascule. Its an old-fashioned and cosy local pub,
with an emphasis on the word local. Its a good place to
see what authentic Dutch pubs are like and the drinks and
snacks are reasonably priced. However, given the overly
orange decoration wed err on the side of caution and
not wear a German football jersey here.QM-3, Buikslo-
termeerplein 10, tel. (+31) 206 34 04 47. Open 08:30 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. BX
CAFE KOFFIEHUIS BLOKKER
Despite the fact that its name means coee house, its
popularity has nothing to do with a good cup of Joe. This
pub is a meeting place for guys from the neighbourhood
who enjoy a game of cards, a spin at the slot machine and
a chat about the latest news from the area over a few pints.
Friendly folks and a pleasant atmosphere are the hallmarks
of this place, but you probably shouldnt disturb the card
players in the heat of a game. The terrace provides a view
of the Mosveld Square outside, which sounds more pictur-
esque than it actually is.QN-2, Mosveld 49, tel. (+31) 206
36 97 39. GBX
CAF LA ROSA
After work, the slightly older guys from the neighbourhood
gather at this friendly pub to discuss the highs and lows of
their day. Slot machines and a pool table are available in the
Texas-inspired interior, but the terrace is its main attraction,
during the summer anyway. The daily market at Buikslo-
termeerplein outside usually provides enough action and
diversity to make the terrace an excellent place to observe
the goings on of life in Noord. From time to time, local sing-
ers take to the stage at La Rosa and card evenings are also
organised on occasion.QM-3, Buikslotermeerplein 11, tel.
(+31) 630 60 04 15. Open 16:00 - 02:00. UGBX
CAFE T EITJE
If there were prize for the ugliest bar exterior, Cafe t Eitje
would be a strong contender. Thats also the reason why
youll be so astonished by the classic interior, which fea-
tures three dart boards and a pool table. In fact, a local
dart club plays its matches at this friendly establishment
and despite the unattractive location it can get quite busy
here. Cafe t Eitje literally translates as Cafe the Egg and
its located right next to Cafetaria de Kip, which means
Cafeteria the Chicken. For a moment we wondered which
of the two came rst, but we decided to leave this age-old
question alone.QN-3, Motorwal 280, tel. (+31) 206 34 17
38, www.cafeteitje.nl. G
PANCAKES
DE PANNEKOEKENBOOT
The Pancake Boat cant be compared in any way to the
traditional tour boats that roam the busy Amsterdam ca-
nals. This oating double-decker doesnt follow the usual
ring of canals, but takes you past all of the architectural
masterpieces of Amsterdam North. But most of the peo-
ple on board probably couldnt care less where the boats
headed as their focus is on the enormous servings of pan-
cakes on oer. The main draw of this oating food factory
is the all-you-can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage and bon
apptit!QM-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel. (+31) 206
36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Tours begin at
13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depend-
ing on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGBK
SEAFOOD
STORK
Even though Amsterdams largest seafood restaurant
opened as recently as 2011, Stork already enjoys quite a
large and loyal following. Classic dishes like oysters, sword-
sh, sea bass, lobster and all kinds of other delicacies from
the aquatic world are given a new dimension here and
the industrial furnishings add to its potential. The light-
ing from the large windows is beautiful and the massive
outdoor terrace is super trendy. Unfortunately, at times
the waiters seem to get lost in this enormous space, which
may mean that your delicious oven-baked dish might have
to be sent back to the open-plan kitchen for a re-heat.QN-
3, Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel. (+31) 206 34 40 00,
www.restaurantstork.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed
Mon. (19 - 23). TA6LGBXW
STEAKS
LOETJE AAN HET IJ
Located in the heart of a brand new yacht marina, this futur-
istic building has been transformed into an elegant eatery
by a popular chain of Dutch steakhouses. A giant terrace on
a wooden platform oers views of the river and an excellent
place to tuck into a juicy sirloin or t-bone.QM-1, Werfkade
14, loetjeaantij.loetje.com. PALBXW
Lunch and a view at Wilhelminadok
Noord
SIGHTSEEING
Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering around
a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam Noord has
only one ocial museum? Read on.
HET KRAANSPOOR
Its usually standard practice to construct buildings verti-
cally, but in Amsterdam-Noord the world of architecture
has been turned upside down. With Het Kraanspoor ar-
chitect Trude Hooykaas designed the largest, and pos-
sibly the most beautiful block of ats in the Netherlands.
The narrow track of land where shipbuilding cranes once
swayed back and forth has been transformed into a giant
transparent building. The 270m-long horizontal struc-
ture is an impressive mixture of the old NDSM shipyard
and a modern glass structure suspended above concrete
pillars that seem to be forgotten by time.QM-2, Kraan-
spoor.
TROMMELWONINGEN
Twiske West is part of a new development that consists
of 12 circular residential buildings. Each so-called drum
contains seven dwellings surrounding an open central
courtyard. All of the homes occupy three oors and have
a garden. Because each of the three storeys is comprised
of one seventh of a circle, each apartment has abundant
sunlight and a panoramic view of almost 160 degrees.QL-
2, Schelvisch Hoofd.
VAN DER PEKBUURT
The Van der Pek neighbourhood is probably the best
example of the genuine old school Amsterdam Noord,
which is now emerging as a popular place to live due to
recent renovations by yuppies. Although a stone house
with a garden in the middle of a city seems like a rather
standard situation today, a 100 years ago this denitely
wasnt the case. On the pretext of creating a green envi-
ronment for every worker in the rapidly expanding ship-
building industry, small garden villages were built by the
city government. The tiny one-storey homes with private
gardens are now once again in demand and the neigbour-
hood is a perfect place for cycling enthusiasts.QN-2, Van
der Pekstraat.
WOODEN HOUSES
Although most of the standard guidebooks are quick to
point out that Amsterdam has only two wooden houses
left, thats denitely not the case. Unfortunately, these so-
called travel writers never made it to the other side of the
River IJ, an indivisible part of the Dutch capital where more
than 160 classic wooden homes still remain. Bundled to-
gether in little photogenic streets alongside picturesque
dikes like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwouderdijk and the
beautiful Nieuwendammerdijk, all are easily accessible by
bike. Most of these forgotten testaments to an Amster-
dam nearly lost were built in the 17th and 19th centuries,
the two eras in which the dikes ourished.QM-3, Nieu-
wendammerdijk.
CHURCHES
BUIKSLOTERKERK
The Buiksloterkerk was built at a time when religion was
still part of nearly everyones daily life. Since 1710 this huge
building has been located in this pastoral setting, which is
a testament to the areas rural past. Another church exist-
ed on the same spot prior to the construction of this house
of worship, but today the church functions as a venue for
various cultural events.QM-2, Buiksloterkerkpad 10,
www.buiksloterkerk.nl.
KERK ZUNDERDORP
If someone ever organises a competition for the Most
Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-brown
building will be a strong contender if not for its architec-
tural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This
place is remarkably quiet, although the bleating sheep
and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmo-
sphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II victims
and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt al-
ways been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful
spot permanently, its possible to reserve a space under
the poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services
are held every Sunday morning at 10:00.QM-4, Achter-
laan 20, Zunderdorp, www.kerkzunderdorp.nl.
MUSEUMS
AMSTERDAM NORTH MUSEUM (MUSEUM DE
NOORD)
There are over 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres only
one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam North
stretches back much further than that of the settlement on
the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district
didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former
public baths of the Vogeldorp, one of the characteristic gar-
den cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story
of this part of the capital. The museum also oers plenty of
maps for guided or independent walking and cycling tours
that will help you explore the attractions of North and its
surrounding wetlands. An exhibition on a changing part of
the history of Amsterdam North is held every three months.
QN-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www.
museumamsterdamnoord.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 4. TLNG
The Trommelwoningen at Twiske West
Noord
PARKS & GARDENS
NOORDERPARK
For decades the heart of Amsterdam North was a messy
combination of two parks (the Florapark and Volewi-
jkspark), a canal and a busy road. . The two parks were
eventually merged to create a green oasis nearly the size
of the Vondelpark (45 hectares).The landscape of trees and
elds is perfect for picnics and plans for walking and bik-
ing routes are also in the works.QM-2/3, Wingerdweg,
www.noorderpark.amsterdam.nl/.
SCULPTURE GARDEN
One of our favorite hidden gems of Noord is the public
sculpture garden at this beautiful spot near the IJ. Gal-
lery owner and photographer Nico Koster has displayed
an intriguing series of statues here. This unique collection
of contemporary art also includes a colourful chicken by
CoBrA artist Corneille.QN-3, Nieuwendammerkade 26d.
PLACES OF INTEREST
DURGERDAM
Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer,
where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a
Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wet-
lands and polders. Another attraction is Durgerdams marina,
where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the people
entering the private sailing club. QN-5, Durgerdam.
EYE FILM INSTITUTE
EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects
and displays lm-related ephemera like photographs,
posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors archives.
Its collection spans the entire length of lm history from
silent lms to the newest digital productions. Every year
the collection expands as more lms, Dutch and foreign,
new and old, are added. Called the heart of lm, the huge
white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide numerous in-
teractive and educational lm projects, while four theatres
bring you the latest art-house lms and old classics. Many
people simply take the free ferry here for the gorgeous
view from its caf and outdoor terraces. QN-2, IJprom-
enade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www.eyeflm.nl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:15. AUBKW
MARITIME QUARTER
What do boats like the Pollux, a magnicent steel three-
masted schooner, the Amstel Botel, a former riverboat
cruise ship that was transformed into a 3-star hotel, and the
Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have in common? Noth-
ing, despite the fact that theyre all moored adjacent to the
NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a striking collection
of ships and buildings situated around a long jetty. Other
impressive vessels include the red Irish lightship Finley that
attracts cultural party-goers from around the city, the old
Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu M880 mine-
sweeper. Right next to the ferry is the platform for De Pan-
nenkoekenboot (Pancake Boat).QN-4, NDSM-Pier.
NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD)
For 60 years a massive shipping industry called the NDSM-
shipyard wharf home. Countless vessels left these legend-
ary wharves, a part of the Dutch seafaring tradition that
had lasted for centuries and made Amsterdam one of the
planets economic powerhouses. But nothing lasts forever.
In 1984, the shipyard nally closed its doors, but the misery
caused by unemployment and the loss of a proud liveli-
hood sowed the seeds of todays rebirth. The shipyard has
been converted into a cultural venue that has become one
of Amsterdams hottest entertainment centres. Concerts,
festivals and theatre are held amid a landscape of monu-
mental industrial buildings.QM-2, NDSM-werf.
WATERLAND RECREATION
Broek in Waterland is one of the most beautiful and well-
kept secrets in Holland lined with colourful waterways and
wooden houses from the 17th century. Silent electric boats
are an excellent way to travel through this protected area,
but a kayak or canoe is might be more suitable to the ad-
venturous traveller.QDrs. J. v. Disweg 4, Broek in Water-
land, tel. (+31) 204 03 32 09, www.fuisterbootvaren.nl.
Boat rental from 10.Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Take the Amsterdam CS free ferry to Amsterdam Noord
and follow signs for Broek in Waterland. TULB
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
WETLANDS SAFARI
Although many people visit Amsterdam for the city cen-
tres canals and architecture, an entirely dierent world
awaits you just on the other side of the River IJ behind the
Central Station. Wetlands Safari oers ve-hour canoe or
electric motorboat tours of Amsterdam Noords precious
wetlands, which includes occasional stops to learn about
unique ora and fauna found in the area from a profession-
al English-speaking guide. Along the way youll also pass
quaint former shing villages full of beautiful 17th-century
architecture. Your guide will meet you behind the Central
Station.Qtel. (+31) 653 55 26 69, info@wetlandssafari.
nl, www.wetlandssafari.nl. Five-hour tours: adults 43,
children (7 - 16) 27. No tours on Saturdays.
The beautiful village of Durgerdam
Noord
SHOPPING
ATTIC EMPIRE
The aptly named Attic Empire is a shop that specialises in
vintage clothing for men, women and children. A wide va-
riety of fashion and accessories from dresses, handbags and
belts to boots and other foot apparel are also available on its
extensive website. Youll nd brand names as well as unique
items in range of price categories.QN-2, Van der Pekstraat
61, tel. (+31) 207 89 24 71, www.atticempire.com. Open
13:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A
BEEKHOVEN BIKES
This huge bike shop has been selling all manner of bicycles
and accessories for over 25 years. It also specialises in rac-
ing and electric bikes.QM-2, Draaierweg 16, tel. (+31)
206 31 71 20, www.beekhovenbikes.nl. Open 09:00 -
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
KASTINO MOLENWIJK
Kastino oers a huge selection of cheeses including or-
ganic brands by local producers.QL-2, Molenwijk 29, tel.
(+31) 206 33 01 09, www.kastino.nl. Open 08:30 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER
If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at
work here or have a look at the gallery of nished prod-
ucts. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment.
QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39,
www.marjokedeheer.com. Open , Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A
LANDMARKT AMSTERDAM
Local organic farmers and horticulturists sell their pro-
duce to Landmarkt. This spacious indoor hall is heaven
on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh
food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat,
sh, vegetables and other daily necessities are hardly more
expensive than the stu youll get at a regular shop. QN-
4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.landmarkt.nl. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG
STIJLKAMER STEK
This fun curiosity shop is a treasure trove of unusual gifts.
Stijlkamer Stek also sells owers and you can even cre-
ate your own bouquet.QN-2, Van der Pekstraat 40, tel.
(+31) 207 37 04 84, www.stijlkamerstek.nl. Open 12:00
- 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Noord
USEFUL ADDRESSES
MSTERDAM MARINA
Although most people imagine water when thinking of
Amsterdam, the fact is that this vibrant Dutch city has
been without a proper yacht marina for years. Thank-
fully, this beautiful harbour with slips for 350 sailing ves-
sels opened in August 2013. As long as your home on
the water is between 7 and 30 metres long you can drop
anchor at this historic harbour where huge ships have
been built for centuries. Extras like free internet and a
good steakhouse on the premises are a couple more rea-
sons to choose msterdam Marina as your home away
from home.QM-1, Werfkade 4, tel. (+31) 206 31 07 67,
www.amsterdammarina.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
JALKW
AMSTERDAM RENT A BIKE
This multifunctional shop not only oers tourist informa-
tion, but also rents good bikes for half day (10) or a full
day (13).QM-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 215, tel. (+31)
613 99 86 75, info@amsterdamrentabike.com, www.
amsterdamrentabike.com.
NOORD FOR KIDS
PIRATES TOUR
Children can also be adventurous and search this wetlands
area for real treasure. Up to ve children and one adult can
take a rowboat and look for clues until they nd the pot
of gold. QKanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880 06
44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht.
Open 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon. (20/boat for 2 hours).
COMING SOON
THE FARALDA NDSM CRANE HOTEL
This unique hotel will be open by the time you read this.
The 300-tonne crane once lifted up to 40 tonnes of ma-
terials, but will now function as a hotel and TV studio.
The rst of its three high-end design suites will hover
at a height of 13 metres, but a Jacuzzi will oer incred-
ible views of Amsterdam from a height of 50m.QM-2,
NDSM-Plein 78, www.faralda.nl. ALGW
Oost
Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an
incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encom-
passes neighbourhoods that couldnt be more dierent
from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is
still under construction, is a largely residential area that is
home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburg-
laan lled with cafs and shops and a public beach only
minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as
Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district
are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing
number of auent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse
dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of
the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian
island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a
real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the East-
ern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working
harbour, but are now mostly home to auent Amsterdam-
mers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without
a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the
Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer
around Middenweg.
ARRIVING IN OOST
Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public
transport. To visit IJburg simply take tram No.26 from the
Central Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark
and Watergraafsmeer you can take trams No.7 or 14 from
Leidseplein. For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to
the last stop.
ACCOMMODATION
EDEN AMSTERDAM MANOR HOTEL
This massive brick building that was once a hospital where
legendary footballer Johan Cruij was born, was com-
pletely renovated and opened as a luxury hotel by the
Eden Group in the summer of 2010. Given its historical
signicance to Amsterdam, much of the hotel has been
decorated with the citys iconic triple X symbol, including
the carpets, the walls and even the duvets on the beds.
QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 89, tel. (+31) 207 00 84 00, www.
edenamsterdammanorhotel.com. 125 rooms (superior
rooms from 80, deluxe rooms from 100, junior suites
from 140). PHAULGBKW hhhh
STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG
This colossal brick building complete with clock tower
was once a technical school, but since 2007 has been one
of the largest and most modern hostels in Amsterdam. Its
500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and
six-bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior
with an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk
beds, a sink and a separate shower and toilet. A large caf
is also available as well as a bar that serves pitchers of beer
for roughly 10. QP-2, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31
90, www.stayokay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms
from 9, beds in four-bed dorms from 11, doubles from
32, quads from 42). HAUGBKW
FOOD & DRINK
With the trendy restaurants of the IJburg, Java and KNSM
islands, the laid back cafs of Linnaeusstraat and the au-
thentic ethnic eateries of Indische Buurt, youre never far
from a good meal in Amsterdam East.
BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN
This is one of the coolest bar/restaurants youll nd in East
Amsterdam. Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was
nally closed in 1980s when it apparently became more
common for locals to bathe in their own homes. Today
its hip design attracts fans of good style as well as good
food and drink and its patrons can enjoy lunch and din-
ner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers
like Texels and Jopen. The seats by the replace are highly
coveted in the winter, while the purple tables and chairs
sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the terrace
are always full on sunny days. The food ranges from sal-
ads and its signature Aberdeen Angus burger to rib-eye
steaks and rabbit stew. A kids menu is also available.QP-
2, Javaplein 21, tel. (+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-
javaplein.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.
(6 - 17). IBW
DE PONTENEUR
Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has
an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings con-
founding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to be
claustrophobic. The rened menu is creative and oers
such delicacies as lamb tournedos and homemade wild
boar pate with toast and cranberry chutney and we partic-
ularly enjoyed the shot of cauliower soup we were given
to whet our appetite. A large reading table is available as
well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music
is played every second Sunday of the month. Aordable
daily specials are listed on the blackboard above the open-
plan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available.
Naturally, in the summer all of this can be enjoyed on a
large terrace outside.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat
581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www.ponteneur.nl. Open
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
(12 - 15). ABW
Oost is full of fun cafs
Oost
ELSAS CAF
This boisterous pub and caf is steeped in history hav-
ing served as a tavern since the late 19th century and as
a meeting place for Ajax supporters before the venerated
stadium just down the road was torn down. The walls are
plastered with old photos, posters and memorabilia, the
tables are worn from years of use and the bar at the back
is always abuzz with the activity of both patrons and sta.
Considering its excellent selection of Dutch microbrews
like t IJ, Texels and Jopen, its no wonder its still a popu-
lar place to watch football matches. A large terrace with
views of the park across the street is a big bonus and a
full menu of hearty meals like t-bone steaks, spare ribs and
Wiener schnitzel will satisfy even the biggest of carnivores.
In short, if youre looking for great local atmosphere, this
is the place to go.QP-2, Middenweg 73, tel. (+31) 206
68 50 10, www.elsascafe.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. B
SHOPPING
From Bollywood lm stores and local sweets shops to trendy
interior design salons, Amsterdam Oost has it covered.
BANKETBAKKERIJ SCHEP
The skilled bakers at Schep have been creating delicious
chocolates, sweets and cakes since 1939 and they can
make a special cake for any occasion.QP-2, Middenweg
57, tel. (+31) 206 65 16 72, www.banketbakkerijschep.
nl. AS
DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT)
One of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt
oers hundreds of street stalls selling household goods,
cheap clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and
local specialities like smoked sh and traditional her-
ring, not to mention Vietnamese spring rolls.QP-2, Dap-
perstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:30.
Closed Sun.
DROOMFABRIEK
This is the place to go for vintage handbags as well as
antique broaches, necklaces, earrings and other costume
jewellery.QP-2, Transvaalkade 2, tel. (+31) 206 65 74
37, www.droomfabriekantiek.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon, Sun.
RO MUSIC & MOVIE PALACE
This place specialises in Bollywood lms and CD
soundtracks.QP-2, Javastraat 75, tel. (+31) 204 65 39 26,
www.romusicmoviepalace.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
SNOEK STRIPS EN GAMES
Buy boardgames, books, collectibles, action gures and
dolls, comics and even the dream toy that we never got
as children - a Star Wars X-wing ghter.QP-2, Linnae-
usstraat 205, tel. (+31) 204 68 81 09. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
SIGHTSEEING
Given its huge size, the district of Amsterdam Oost has a
diverse selection of sights from an authentic Dutch distill-
ery located in a beautiful park to the colossal Museum of
the Tropics.
MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS (TROPENMUSEUM)
Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the
Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for students
of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who ap-
preciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums
that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times
and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only of-
fers examples of antique art, but also household items and
objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cultures
throughout the tropical regions of the world from Indian
Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons. A cafete-
ria serving food and drink from the regions covered in the
museum including South East Asian beer like Singha and
Chang is also available as well as a museum shop selling
interesting gifts.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205
68 82 00, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5
and under free. AK
T NIEUWE DIEP DISTILLERY
This small distillery is partly owned by former archaeolo-
gist Kees Filius who has a passion for the Dutch tradition
of distilling spirits. He and his business partner decided to
create their own jenevers, bitters, eau de vie, liqueurs and
fruit jenevers according to long forgotten recipes that were
unearthed from old books and documents. After years of
trial and error the t Nieuwe Diep Distillery now produces
roughly 100 of its own spirits made in small batches at this
wonderful and historic location where even Rembrandt
once painted its sublime view. You can visit its tasting
room on weekdays and sample the goods for yourself or
buy a bottle to bring home as the perfect Amsterdam sou-
venir. QP-2, Flevopark 13, tel. (+31) 204 65 02 22, www.
nwediep.nl. Tasting room: open May - September 15:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon; October -
April 15:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
Distillery tour every Friday at 16:00. B
The tasting room at the t Nieuwe Diep Distillery M.Zaprauskis
West
Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial dis-
trict of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel
Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so
youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some
good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of
grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restau-
rants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine,
not to mention its numerous shops, many of which special-
ise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and of-
ces. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat
are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Wester-
gasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial
estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park
full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute must-
see in West!
ARRIVING IN WEST
Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you
dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the
Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not
everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just
take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and
Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Wester-
park and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station
to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest
of the way.
ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL VONDEL
This fantastic boutique hotel located in a quiet Museum
district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for anyone
who requires accommodation with cutting-edge design.
A unique blend of new and antique, European and Asian,
Hotel Vondel oers four-star rooms with every imaginable
amenity including at screen TVs, wireless internet, iPod
speakers and mini-bars as well as individually designed
interiors and private natural stone bathrooms with walk-
in rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is
also at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restau-
rant.QT-4, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12 01 20, www.
vondelhotels.com. 86 rooms (singles 85 - 120, doubles
90 - 130, triples 160 - 195, suites 380, executive
rooms 115 - 165). PHAGKW hhhh
FOOD & DRINK
With venues like the Westergasfabriek and streets like Over-
toom, youre never far from a pub or club in West!
DE KEU
There are dozens of pool tables and a great Bohemian
vibe here at one of Amsterdams oldest billiards halls. The
walls are covered in old movie posters and theres always
plenty of people hanging about with drinks in their hands.
Open until the wee hours of the morning, the Cue is much
more than just a place to play eight ball. Its also one of
Amsterdam Wests best late night hotspots.QT-4, Eerste
Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30 05 51, www.dekeu.
nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA
Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which
is undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to
the menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire con-
tinents culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa.
Order an Ethiopian St. George beer while you ponder the
choices in front of you before inevitably asking the friendly
wait sta to recommend something authentic and tasty.
We ended up getting the most bang for our euro by try-
ing the bebeayenetu, which is a combination of dierent
dishes served on a giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere
inside was vibrant, hot and humid, not unlike the stereo-
typical vision of sub-Saharan Africa. Only cash and bank
cards are accepted.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel.
(+31) 204 12 44 42, . Open 17:00 - 23:00. B
GOLDEN BROWN BAR
This is denitely not a brown bar, unless of course these
Amsterdam institutions have changed and now include
incredibly stylish interiors with high ceilings and serve deli-
cious cocktails and aordable Thai cuisine. Decorative walls
on two oors, giant windows for people watching and huge
glass balls as lamps will give you a small hint at what to ex-
pect. The sh cakes, green curries and pad thai also make it
worth a visit, but just in case you were really in the market
for a brown bar, this trendy hotspot does oer some great
brews on draught.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146, tel.
(+31) 206 12 40 76, www.goldenbrownbar.nl. Open 17:00
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (7 - 9). AB
GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL
This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in op-
eration, but the bartender did hint that its other former
locations would eventually re-open, so keep your ngers
crossed. In the meantime you can take a 10-minute tram
ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine
dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favourite Belgian
brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has it stocked in
one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch snacks can
also be had as well as some daily specials written on the
blackboard. QS-4, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12
94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB
Amsterdam School architecture in West M.Zaprauskis
West
RANARA
Its no mirage. The lonely brick building at the far end of
the Westergasfabriek is a cosy oasis from the otherwise
bland surroundings of empty space on one side and bor-
ing residential housing blocks across the street. Let the
aroma of North African spices emanating from the open-
plan kitchen lure you inside for a culinary experience you
wont soon forget. Although you can try traditional tagines
as main courses, you might get a broader introduction to
this exotic cuisine by ordering the chefs special mezze
menu that includes ve dierent dishes. In the summer
you can also sit outside on carpets and enjoy a mint tea
in the sun.QS-2, Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasfabriek),
tel. (+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai.nl. Open 12:00 -
23:00. Closed Mon. (20). B
SHOPPING
You wont nd many chain shops in West, which is what we
like about it. Overtoom, Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat
and Bilderdijkstraat are a good place to start.
HENDRIKSE PATISSERIE & CONFISERIE
This wonderful bakery sells all kinds of delicious cakes
and sweets from marzipan fruit and overowing shelves
of chocolate trues to cupcakes, cookies and sinfully rich
tarts and cakes. Recommended.QS-4, Overtoom 472, tel.
(+31) 206 18 04 72. S
FRIDAY NEXT
Its both an interior design shop and a caf all in one so
you can drink a peppermint tea while perusing hand bags,
couches, coee mugs and lamps.QT-4, Overtoom 31, tel.
(+31) 206 12 32 92, www.fridaynext.com. Open 09:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
AKW
HIP WONEN
The name Hip Living says it all. Youll nd truly fashionable
furniture and home accessories here.QS-4, Overtoom 412,
tel. (+31) 206 16 13 00, www.hipwonen.nl. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. A
RETRO IN- & OUTSTYLES
This vintage shop is crammed to the rafters with second-
hand overcoats, dresses, sweaters, scarves and even bridal
accessories.QS-4, 2e Constantijn Huijgensstraat 57, tel.
(+31) 206 83 41 80, www.retrostyles.nl. Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
BRITISH GENERAL STORES
If you have a hankering for a Crunchie, Curly Wurly or some
good old PG Tips tea, then pay a visit to British General
Stores. Owner Lin stocks a massive range of genuine Brit-
ish goodies including HP sauce, Heinz baked beans, Jelly
Babies and great English sausages.QS-4, Eerste Constan-
tijn Huygensstraat 94, tel. (+31) 206 83 61 91, www.
britishstore.nl. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
SIGHTSEEING
West isnt exactly overloaded with sights but it does have
beautiful parks and the Het Schip Museum is a must for
anyone who wants to learn more about Amsterdam School
architecture.
ERASMUSPARK
Named after the famous Dutch theologian, philosopher,
author and Catholic priest Desiderius Erasmus (1466 - 1536),
this peaceful park is perhaps best known for its impressive
ower garden and the fact that its completely surrounded
by a canal that is home to interesting water plants. Its a
good place for a picnic or a relaxing walk, but if youre a bit
more active a football pitch is also available.QR-3, Between
Jan van Galenstraat and Erasmusgracht.
HET SCHIP MUSEUM
One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School
architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as
proof that aordable working-class housing could not
only be functional, but stylish. The historic edice is still
inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the
museum, which begins at a former post oce decorated
with funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design
movement. You can also view an apartment that looks
as it did in the early 20th century and take in an exhibit
dedicated to Amsterdam School architecture and its most
renowned adherents.QS-2, Spaarndammerplantsoen
140, tel. (+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl. Open
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon Admission: adults 7.50. A
WESTERPARK
If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shop-
ping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein youll
eventually run into Westerpark, which is anked by a canal
on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the
other. On one end youll nd a water feature, a childrens
playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the
far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and
kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the
Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been
reclaimed by cafs, clubs and galleries.QT-2, Between
Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat.
Enjoy one of many terraces at the Westergasfabriek
Zuid
Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its
large concentration of superb museums, which is the rea-
son so many hotels are also located here. It will come as
no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C.
Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari,
Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star ac-
commodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum
Quarter youll nd the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian
cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Al-
bert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much
anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the
district.
ACCOMMODATION
PARK HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Modern design is already evident in the lobby also know
as the Living Room where you can relax with a drink by a
huge open replace or next to the library. Superior rooms
are decorated in subtle greys, whites and blacks and in-
clude a piece of art by a Dutch designer as well amenities
like Nespresso machines and iPod docking stations and
open-concept bathrooms with rainforest showerheads.
Even more luxurious executive, bridal and split-level suites
with kitchenettes are also available as well as a hip Asian
restaurant, a 24-hour tness centre and conference rooms.
QF-5, Stadhouderskade 25, tel. (+31) 206 71 12 22,
fax (+31) 206 64 94 55, www.parkhotel.nl. 189 rooms
(superior doubles 129 - 149, executive doubles 169 -
189, split level suites 289 - 309, executive suites 369
- 389). PHAUFGKW hhhh
MAXIME BOUTIQUE HOTEL
If youd like to stay in a trendy, yet surprisingly aordable
boutique hotel on Amsterdams swankiest shopping street
where the citys wealthy park their Ferraris and Porsches,
then look no further than Maxime. All of its rooms are deco-
rated in black, white and beige tones and include at screen
TVs, free internet access, minimalist design and private
bathrooms with marble vanities. Even if youre not planning
on staying here, you can drop by its purple ground oor
brasserie for coee and cake or a proper meal with some
of the Dutch capitals glitterati.QF-10, P.C Hooftstraat 63,
tel. (+31) 206 76 02 32, www.maximeamsterdam.nl. 12
rooms (attic room from 79, doubles from 89, deluxe
from 99). ARLGK hhh
FOOD & DRINK
BAZAR
Located in a huge space that was once a church in the
middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Ba-
zar oers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle
Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to men-
tion here. Suce it to say, that you can get anything from
kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of
cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. Dine under enormous
Moroccan-style lamps on the second oor balcony or be-
low multicoloured ashing Christmas lights on the ground
oor. The food is refreshingly aordable and the atmo-
sphere is friendly and casual. Despite the Islamic dcor,
plenty of beer, wine and spirits can be ordered at the cen-
tral bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat 182, tel. (+31) 206 75
05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
(6 - 12). A
DE TAART VAN MN TANTE (MY AUNTIES PIE)
The list of Dutch (and foreign) celebrities alone whove
tasted the sweet and incredible delicacies served in this
tiny, colourful place in Amsterdam South is more than im-
pressive. Time and again, its two owners manage to think
of something innovative and delicious from edible cloth-
ing to the kitschiest wedding cakes in the city. Its almost
a shame to destroy these beautiful creations by eating
them. Even the window display will get you salivating, but
note the opening hours, or thats all youll get to see.QG-
10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207 76 46 00, www.
detaart.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. TABKS
DESA
Dutch Indonesian restaurants almost never excel at choos-
ing original names and Desa, which means village, is no
exception. Then again it does reect the rustic environ-
ment of this casual establishment that serves authentic
dishes that are both tasty and aordable. The chefs are
skilled and the sta is friendly, so Desa might just be a
good place to discover this exotic cuisine.QH-9, Ceintuur-
baan 103, tel. (+31) 206 71 09 79, www.restaurantdesa.
com. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 14). AK
SMALL TALK COFFEE CORNER
If youre looking for a quick bite or a coee before or after
a visit to the Van Gogh Museum than this busy little place
on two oors isnt a bad option. You can order a variety
of small sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and breakfast
food, but its service can best be described as ecient since
you feel like youre part of a large caf conveyor belt. Take
the steep winding stairs to the second oor for lots more
seating or stay by the coee bar under miniature glass
chandeliers and murals of interesting women on the walls.
You can also try its restaurant next door for a full sit down
meal without the inkling that the sta want to hustle you
out the door as quick as possible.QF-9, Willemsparkweg
1, tel. (+31) 206 62 00 29, www.smalltalkamsterdam.nl.
Open 07:30 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (4 - 8). A
Cherry blossoms in full bloom at the Hotel Okura in Zuid
Zuid
SIGHTSEEING
ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT)
This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp
district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery,
fresh seafood like crab and lobster, owers, lingerie, souve-
nirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more
things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls.
QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular
beers is made and sample the nished product at its ul-
tramodern bar, then look no further than the Heineken Ex-
perience, which truly is an experience. Although this tasty
brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the
globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour
and learn about the companys evolution from its found-
ing in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a mul-
tinational brand. View exhibits that chronicle Heinekens
innovative leaps in both brewing technology and market-
ing that launched the famous red star logo on six conti-
nents. QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92
22, www.heineken.com/experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30
(last tour at 17:30). Admission: 17. AU
HOUSE OF BOLS COCKTAIL AND GENEVER
EXPERIENCE
Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one
the worlds oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of
the oldest rms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe
dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the
British roughly 25 years later where it was modied to
English tastes and produced locally as gin. Although the
venerable company moved away to a location near The
Hague in 1969 it opened this amazing tasting experience
and bartending school near the Van Gogh Museum in Am-
sterdam in 2007. The award-winning Genever Experience
showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries
around the world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers
it produces. Take a self-guided, interactive tour and learn
about the history of the House of Bols.QF-10, Paulus Pot-
terstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.
nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Ad-
mission: 11.50. A
RIJKSMUSEUM
This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block
and is nally open to the public again after years of reno-
vations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations
best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and
Steen. Some of the museums most famous paintings like
Rembrandts The Jewish Bride and The Night Watch are also
described in detail in laminated information cards, so you
can take your time and discover interesting facts about
each of these canvases. Queues can be long at peek times,
mostly due to security checks, so plan accordingly.QF-9,
Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70
47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis-
sion: adults 15, under 18 free.
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
The Netherlands most important museum for modern
and temporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight
years, but is now open to the public. The entrance has
moved from the street to the park side, which means that
the cultural living room of Amsterdam now has its own
chill-out and meeting area outside. Moreover, this square
will function as an outdoor exhibition space. The addition
of a new building has doubled the size of the museum and
the Stedelijk is now the proud owner of the largest exhibi-
tion space in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this
1100m2 area also suitable for displaying digital and video
art. The interior of the old and new buildings have been
completely integrated, so youll hardly notice where the
100-year-old edice ends and the modern one begins. If
you lose your bearings just remember that the old part
houses the permanent collections, while the new build-
ing exhibits temporary work.QF-10, Museumplein 10,
tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.nl. Open closed.
Admission: adults 10, below 18 years free entrance.
AK
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this
incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly
200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise
most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his
short 10-year career. Those familiar with only his later
works will no doubt be surprised to see the dark greys,
browns and blues used in Van Goghs earliest still lifes of
cabbages and clogs, not to mention some of the subject
matter such as a smoking skeleton. The vibrant paintings
for which he is now so renowned only appeared later dur-
ing his time in Paris when he discovered colour. Although
the museum is indeed a shrine to all things Van Gogh, it
also displays a varied collection of works by world-famous
artists from early mentors like Anton Mauve and Jules Du-
pr to such icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissa-
ro, Gauguin, Renoir, Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from
which he drew inspiration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat
7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults
15, children 17 and under free. AUKW
Lazy day at Museumplein M.Zaprauskis
Zuidoost
Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More
than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural
backgrounds are reected in its many festivals with foreign
roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across ve
weekends in July and August, and the Southeast Jazz Fes-
tival in August. And despite its many modern skyscrapers,
Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it, can often feel
like a small village. It boasts several parks and green spaces
including the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of them all. Its
also a fairly new area, its rst houses having been built as
recent as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs stadi-
um, the Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renaissance,
not to mention an economic boom. Amsterdams biggest
shopping centres and megastores are almost all located
here and the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Zig-
go Dome are both state of the art concert halls attracting
world renowned talent from around the globe. Take in a
concert, spend the day shopping or just walk around and
experience the diversity of this vibrant area that most tour-
ists never see.
ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST
Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The
easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride
from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Cen-
tral Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the
western part of the city and has the same destination. Red
line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and
then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas.
ACCOMMODATION
FLETCHER HOTEL AMSTERDAM
This huge hotel is so modern it looks like it belongs in a sci-
ence ction movie. To nd it just look for the shimmering
blue polka-dotted column rising up from the Schepen-
bergweg. But the futuristic theme doesnt end there as all
of the rooms also look like accommodation on the Starship
Enterprise, but much more luxurious. That said, the see-
through shower tube in the middle of the room might not
be to everyones likingQU-2, Schepenbergweg 50, tel.
(+31) 203 11 36 70, www.fetcherhotelamsterdam.nl.
120 rooms (doubles from 109). PHAFKW
FOOD & DRINK
Zuidoost is known for its multicultural neighbourhoods, so
it will come as no surprise that you can nd anything from
Turkish kebab shops to Indonesian restaurants here.
BAGELS
BAGELS & BEANS
This huge chain of Dutch bagel joints has taken the Neth-
erlands by storm and as much as wed like to poke fun at
this large food franchise we have to admit that, although
the bagels here wont top the warm New York bagels of
our youth, theyre probably the best weve had on this
continent. Naturally, a wide choice of coee, tea and juice
is also available as well as free wi-.QV-1, Bijlmerplein
561 B, tel. (+31) 203 65 33 81, www.bagelsbeans.nl.
Open 08:02 - 18:03, Sat 09:01 - 17:32, Sun 09:32 - 17:32.
(4 - 7). ASW
ICHI-E
Whatever section you choose, the ground oor with its ro-
tating bar, the rst oor with its attractive tables or the top
oor with the view and pleasant outdoor terrace, youre
guaranteed to have a great experience. The dcor is ultra
trendy and although the dishes are slightly overpriced and
the sta are still in nappies, the food is quite good. The
real Japanese chefs (no foreign substitutes here) turn ev-
ery sashimi and sushi dish into a small feast for the senses.
QU-1, Arena Boulevard 175, tel. (+31) 206 91 02 31,
www.ichi-e.nl. Open 11:30 - 21:00. (13 - 18). PZ
TAULGBKSW
DE SMELTKROES
Few bars and restaurants have been more aptly named
than De Smeltkroes (The Crucible). Young yuppies, single
pensioners and everyone in between enjoy the traditional
Surinamese snacks that this spacious place has on oer.
The walls are decorated with murals of rice elds, while the
speakers spew out sickly sweet pop music. If you havent got
the money for a holiday to a far-o destination, but could
nevertheless do with a short trip to an exotic place, you can
drop by De Smeltkroes to sample unique atmosphere for
only a few euros.QV-1, Bijlmerdreef 1289, tel. (+31) 204
95 20 76, www.smeltkroeszo.nl. Open 10:30 - 21:30, Sat
12:30 - 21:30. Closed Sun. ZTULNGKSW
MERAM RESTAURANT
The friendly stas genuine Amsterdam accent might give
you the wrong impression at rst, but its denitely a Turk-
ish lifestyle that prevails at Merams. Turkish soaps on TV
and a cup of super sweet Turkish tea are the next hints that
youve arrived at the Bosporus. Divided over two oors,
you can enjoy exotic Eurasian dishes in a stylish atmo-
sphere full of lounge chairs. If youre looking for something
cheaper, theres an authentic kebab takeaway restaurant
on the other side of the building.QV-1, Bijlmerdreef 1181,
tel. (+31) 204 16 10 90, www.restaurantmeram.nl. Also
at Pretoriusstraat 22 - 24. PTLGBKW
Cutting edge architecture in Zuidoost Rob Sieben
Zuidoost
SHOPPING
Other parts of the city may be famous for antiques and
small boutiques, but Zuidoost is the place to go in Amster-
dam for megastores that are nearly cities themselves.
PERRY ARENA
Genuine Ajax fans will start to salivate when they visit the
Perry mega store. In addition to the usual red and white
jerseys and other merchandise, you can shop till you drop
for sports equipment in this XXL shoppers paradise.QU-1,
ArenA Boulevard 51 - 53, tel. (+31) 204 09 42 27, www.
perrysport.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00: - 17:00.
TAUL
VILLA ARENA WOONMALL
With a whopping four oors, Villa Arena is the biggest
speciality shopping centre of its kind in the country, fea-
turing 60 shops selling everything you could possibly
need or want thats related to home decorations and inte-
rior design. This futuristic building opened in 2001 and its
75,000m2 are just begging to be explored. The selection
of restaurants is far better than the food court or fast food
venue at your average shopping mall.QU-1, De Entree 1,
tel. (+31) 800 84 55 22 7, www.villaarena.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 -
17:00. PTA6ULGBKSW
AMSTERDAMSE POORT
Over 230 shops are concentrated in this huge open-air
shopping centre. Partly covered, partly open you can
buy anything here from shoes and home furnishings to
childrens clothing or perhaps a new bike. A large num-
ber of food stores are also located at this massive mall
and over 9 million people visit Amsterdamse Poort each
year so they must be doing something right. Although it
can be easily reached by public transport, the area is sur-
rounded by huge parking garages with spaces for more
than 10,000 vehicles in case you have your own car. Dont
leave without visiting the Shopperhal, this covered market
resembles the multicultural society of this district the best.
QV-1, Bijlmerplein, www.amsterdamsepoort.nl. Open
09:30 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. UL
SIGHTSEEING
Zuidoost may not have the famous canals of the city cen-
tre, but it has cutting-edge, modern architecture and some
impressive parks.
BIJLMER PARK (BIJLMERPARK)
The renovated Bijlmer Park is home to the famous Kwakoe-
festival and its also an obvious choice for a relaxing stroll
on a sunny day in Zuidoost. Since over 8,500 trees were cut
down to make way for the completion of the new park in
2011, not everybody was amused with this project. But the
expansion of park has actually resulted in a wider diversity
of ora and fauna. Tree-huggers can at least enjoy 130 dif-
ferent trees in the garden, each representing a nationality of
the residents living in this part of town!QV-1, Flierbosdreef,
www.bijlmerparkmijnpark.nl. T6EB
GAASPER PARK (GAASPERPARK)
This spacious park occupies the northern shore of Lake
Gaasperplas, a man-made body of water that was created
when the land was excavated to provide sand and earth
for the new building projects in the area. The park came
into being in the late 1970s and early 1980s and hosted
the massive Dutch Floriade in 1982, an enormous ower
and gardening event that is held once every 10 years. A
large campground is also available in the park, but most
people come here to go swimming and windsurng or to
rent a kayak for a few hours of fun on the water.QV/W-1,
Between Loosdrechtdreef and Provincialeweg.
PATH ARENA
There are currently four IMAX cinemas in the Netherlands
including this one in Amsterdam. In case youve been in a
coma for the past 15 years, IMAX is a special movie format
designed to display lms on a much larger screen (22 x
16m) than at typical theatres. The chairs and the screen
have also been adjusted for digital lms so you basically
feel like youre taking part in all the action.QU-1, ArenA
boulevard 600, tel. 09 00 14 58, www.pathe.nl.
WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA)
If a ticket to an Ajax match is at the top of your wish list of
things to do in the Dutch capital, but the game you had
in mind is sold out then a visit to the Arena, the hallowed
home of the players in red and white, might be a good
alternative. Even if youre not a fan, its still a brilliant
feeling to set foot in the stadium, even when its empty.
At full capacity, 53,052 supporters sing, scream and yell
from their brightly coloured seats. About an hour later
youre back where you started, and the tour predictably
ends at the club shop where you can express your newly
acquired love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white
souvenirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13
36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Admis-
sion: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50. Take
metro line 54 from the Central Station to the Amster-
dam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs to Main
Entrance E.
Relax at an outdoor terrace in Zuidoost
Gay Amsterdam
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands be-
came the rst country in the world to ocially recognise
same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in
the city centre, rainbow ags on nearly every other street
and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the
place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what
can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are with-
in easy walking distance of one another. The prime area
is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime
hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants.
Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with
two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as
a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district
(with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the
Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
INFORMATION
GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC)
This place oers lots of information about everything
youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Am-
sterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and
publications. You can also buy stu at its Gays&Gadgets
shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
PINK POINT & HOMOMONUMENT
(GAY INFORMATION CENTRE)
Pink Point provides general information about gay and
lesbian Amsterdam. Its staed by volunteers who can
provide all kinds of information about gay organisations
and about gay life in general in the Dutch capital and they
also sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs in the country.
The nearby Monument to Homosexuals or Homomonu-
ment was designed in 1987 by artist Karin Daan to inspire
and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against dis-
crimination. It is also a memorial to gay men and women
who were oppressed and persecuted because of their
lifestyles and beliefs. The pink triangle was the symbol ho-
mosexuals were forced to wear by the Nazis. Sadly one of
the three granite triangles is located right next to a public
urinal. Talk about discrimination!QE-5, Westermarkt to 9,
tel. (+31) 20 428 10 70, www.pinkpoint.org. Open 10:00
- 18:00. J6NB
NIGHTLIFE
CAFE LELLEBEL
Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll
nd an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife,
which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and
meat markets. This self-proclaimed drag show bar is
a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a
cutting edge design bar so popular with the gay scene
these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and
gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and
it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat
parade each year and is the place to go for karaoke every
Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204
27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 04:00. A
CAF ROUGE
Red like a cheap brothel, this unpretentious late night spot
attracts a diverse crowd willing to party and score. A live
DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture of gay classics,
Eurovision and modern pop. The walls lled with photos
of Dutch and international royalty add to the campy at-
mosphere where anything can happen. Anything can
also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days like
Queens Day its a safe option for fun.QG-6, Amstel 60,
tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81, www.caferouge.nl. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. PJNG
CLUB CHURCH
This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two oors
of play and dance areas that oer changing theme par-
ties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the
venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available
for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint
Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry
and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it
as wild or rough as youd like it, but its probably not the
best place to have your rst gay experience and denitely
not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with
your straight business colleagues.QF-7, Kerkstraat 52,
www.clubchurch.nl. Open , Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu
22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:0004:00.
Closed Mon. PJNGX
MONTMARTRE
Always packed at the weekend, Montmartre can be a
bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodily
contact and irting with the hot young boys in their
teens and twenties that come here are in for a real treat.
Cheesy pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven
for all Dutch queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk,
croon with Sandra Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the
night away. You can also use its happy hour from 18:00
- 20:00 to get in the mood.QB-3, Halvemaansteeg 17,
tel. (+31) 20 620 76 22, www.cafemontmartre.nl. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PJNGX
UN (of Love) peacekeepers at the Pride Parade
Gay Amsterdam
OLDEST GAY BAR
Although Amsterdam
is now one of the most
gay-friendly cities in the
world, it wasnt always
such a pillar of tolerance.
But one woman had an
incredible inuence on
the Dutch capital and
its residents. Bet van
Beeren was born in 1902
and spent her childhood
in the Jordaan district of
Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar t Man-
dje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927.
Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a
gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or
otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved
themselves. In those days the police could revoke a
bars license for promoting what we today would call
a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons
making sure there werent any obvious displays of af-
fection between same-sex couples with perhaps the
exception of Queens Day (now Kings Day) a tradi-
tion that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty
much anything was possible and t Mandje gained a
reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch
holiday. That said, Bet usually took an interest in her
patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she
would penalise them by cutting o an article of cloth-
ing with a butchers knife, hence all of the ties nailed
to the ceiling.
As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attrac-
tions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her
appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman
who drank like a sh and smoked like chimney, she was
also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a
leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few
eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that
eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for
her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a
typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her
lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gain-
ing the respect of her patrons and neighbours who
often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she
passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard ta-
ble of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects
to her over the course of two days.
The bar nally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets niece,
Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her
husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje: B-1, Zeedijk 63,
tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl. Open
15:00 - 01:00, Tue 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
PRIK
Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal
place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother,
and have a drink to start the night o. Prosecco on tap,
sexy cocktails, tasty nger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probably make you linger around longer than
you might have planned. It was voted several times as
the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why.
Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02,
www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. PJNGB
REALITY
Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail
from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and
other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to the
other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, meren-
gue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with
the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to
see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys
are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31)
206 39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Open
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJNG
TABOO
This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music
videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and at-
tentive and a comfy smoking room on the rst oor
which seems to be a winning combination especially
on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two happy
hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00) has also
helped to build up a steady and happy clientile. Sundays
oer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!QB-3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www.
taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGBX
THE QUEENS HEAD
At the head of the Zeedijk the Queens Head is an old time
gay favourite with a loyal clientele. Friendly bar sta, chan-
deliers, drag nights and hilarious bingo nights on Thurs-
days are all major draws. Downstairs a cosy backroom with
a romantic canal view is also available and live DJs spin
music at the weekend. In short, its a lovely place to actu-
ally meet other people.QB-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20
24 75, www.queenshead.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGBX
VIVELAVIE
An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian
bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive
and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere
with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their
friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the
late hours in this Art Deco-style space. The menu oers
tapas, tosties and other nger food and the music varies
from lounge to gay classics. QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel.
(+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 12:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJNGBX
Coffeeshops
SYMBOL KEY
S Takeaway W Wi
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coeeshops in Am-
sterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you you'll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many dif-
ferent types of coeeshops, for dierent kinds of people.
Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan mon-
asteries (once you're stoned) and others like super-modern
cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating,
sometimes near the canal.
Coeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long
history (Mellow Yellow was the rst one in 1973), even
during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been
imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas,
proof enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal
gangs anyway).
Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug track-
ing in this city was an attractive option. Coeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today,
they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic op-
tion.
After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of
coeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided
here. They are selected from across the city, so that you're
never at any point far away from one of these exceptional
Dutch institutions.
COFFEESHOPS
Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe
haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative
politics and a national law have sent many a foreign
toker looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint.
The law states that only residents of Holland may buy
and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at cof-
feeshops. Although more strictly enforced in other
areas of the country, the wise and commerce driven
Amsterdammers have done what they usually do when
they dont like a law. For the most part, the city and
the police have turned a blind eye to the law fearing
a catastrophic loss of tourism euros. Obviously, when
in doubt just ask the staf at a cofeeshop and hope for
the best.
ABRAXAS
Down a side-street o one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll nd this surprisingly cosy
medium-size coeeshop spread over several narrow
oors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it
includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly
mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well
organised and ecient sta make this an attractive op-
tion for a relaxed (but brief ) break while touring the citys
many delights. Longer stays at this coeeshop will per-
mit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfort-
able smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14,
abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 -
01:00. J
AMNESIA
The rst thing to be said about this coeeshop is that its
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards and therefore should be on the map for any con-
noisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant
surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the ca-
nal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a
pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well
as equally pleasant and ecient sta. A choice of games
and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coeeshop is
well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this
a prime summer coeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel.
(+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
HIGHER EDUCATION
For everyone with an
interest in cannabis or
questions about can-
nabis, the Cannabis Col-
lege is a must-visit. Not
only can you learn about
the risks and benets of
cannabis, the sta at the information centre will gladly
advise you where to buy good weed and which cof-
feeshops you should avoid. Cannabis College is a non-
prot organisation aimed at educating the public about
cannabis in an unbiased, scientically backed, manner.
Their library is a gold mine of information about can-
nabis, particularly if youd like to learn about the plants
medical potential. Cannabis College also provides
training for sta members of several coeeshops and,
believe it or not, they have even trained Dutch police
ocers! All the information is free,
as well as a visit to the small, labo-
ratory-like garden downstairs. The
worlds only college of cannabis
education is located in the heart
of the Red Light district at B-2, Ou-
dezijds Achterburgwal 124, www.
cannabiscollege.com.
BARNEYS
This coeeshop review is more about the three establish-
ments which are part of Barneys coeeshop empire and
all located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking dis-
tance of each other. One venue is a coeeshop, the other
is a bar/restaurant and the nal one is a souvenir shop/bar
and smoke-room, meaning that in between these three
places, you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts con-
tent in an attractive environment with a pleasant dcor.
Popular particularly with tourists, it provides its customers
with arguably one of the best choices in life; get high and
eat, get high and drink, or get high and have a coee. And
to get high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonder-
ful choices to be made here, but once your desires have
been met, it is always good to remember that the souvenir
shop will provide you with numerous ways to annoy your
boss/ mother-in-law/ lecturer/ law enforcement agency
(delete where appropriate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat
105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69, www.barneys.biz. Open
07:30 - 01:00. P
BULLDOG NO. 90
Arguably the rst ever coeeshop in Amsterdam, this es-
tablishment combines cannabis history and getting high
with an excellent central location. With seating overlook-
ing the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the
canal outside, this coeeshop is an ideal place any time of
year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper
articles and the orange (youll understand once you get
here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which
gives o a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet
access are available (for a fee) for any last-minute travel ar-
rangements or any web addicts and the sta are friendly
and helpful. Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate
from the drinks area. A small, but important detail when
you want to get your smoke on in a hurry.QB-2, Ou-
dezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www.
thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB
DOLPHINS
You wont nd a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam
or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an
overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as
your guide you can make a selection from the aordable
and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many
high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The con-
stant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make
you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a
stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and
the friendly sta can ensure all your needs are met down
here underwater, although you may have to swim to the
surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel.
(+31) 206 25 91 62. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBXW
EASY TIMES
With more then 40 wonderful choices on weed and hash,
this is smokers paradise. If you prefer a bong or vaporizer
to reach a trippy experience, settle down in the Arabian
style room in the back. A shining red carpet, in normal life
only to be walked on by VIPs or other arrogant twats, leads
the way to this Walhalla on Earth. And if you got problems
getting high, just watch one of the four giant plasma
screens where CNN, BBC and all those other news stations
keep on broadcasting in what fucked up world we live in.
Funny and handy souvenirs like a pink glass elephant ash-
tray (were not kidding) can be purchased from the small
booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206
26 57 09, www.easytimes-amsterdam.com. Open 09:00
- 01:00. JNXSW
So many joints, so little time Mike Studeny
Coffeeshops
FUNNY PEOPLE
This coeeshop is a bit dark and on the small side, but the
candles, comfy seating and cushions all ensure a relatively
cosy experience and its located near the train station. The
dcor has no particular theme, but is still pleasing to the
eye even before a smoke. A TV and some board games are
available as well as a few snacks. A good choice to get a
quick high while waiting for a train or hotel check-in.QB-
1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31) 206 23 86 63. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JGX
GRASSHOPPER
This grand establishment is a one-stop shop for food,
drink and smoke. Its close enough to the station for a
one-hour stopover or you could even just grab a beer, a
steak and a joint without even leaving the premises. The
multiple oors cover each of these aspects and it has a
pre-club feel in the evening with private booth tables,
colourful lights and bar games like pool. The massive
outdoor terrace overlooking the canal is one of the best
spots in summer for boat, street and people watching
and is, not surprisingly, incredibly popular with tour-
ists.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26 12 59,
www.thegrasshopper.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 01:00. PJB
KATSU
Katsus laid-back atmosphere and its impressive cannabis
selection are just two reasons to head over to the De Pijp
neighbourhood. The friendly owner has created an atmo-
sphere where locals, and the occasional tourist, can feel
at home while smoking a joint or taking a toke of a bong.
To avoid confusion make sure that the sta weighs your
goodies in front of you and skip the potent 0G18 weed un-
less youre a very experienced smoker. According to new
laws that will be implemented soon, it will be categorised
as a hard drug.QH-10, 1e van der Helststraat 70, www.
katsu.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. NX
LA TERTULIA
Open since 1983, one of the oldest coeeshops in Am-
sterdam is also one of the most appealing and original for
smokers and non-smokers alike. Apart from the relatively
ordinary weed menu, the environment which the friendly
mother and daughter create here, includes extensive de-
tailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, provid-
ing trippy experiences at every corner. The selection of
drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more
extensive than in most coeeshops in Amsterdam and
the many plants, as well as the multiple levels and patio
furniture make one feel as if they were picnicking in a
garden. The outside seating next to the canal in a quiet
area of the city makes for a relaxed break while wander-
ing the beautiful surroundings. Dont leave without taken
at least one bite from their delicious home-made weed
brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23
85 03, www.cofeeshopamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN)
Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life,
you may not enjoy this coeeshop. If, however, youd like
to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit
to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history d-
cor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving
you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to
Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products
on oer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel.
(+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
MAGIC
This charming North African-style coeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along
with other games, as well as large comfortable seating ar-
eas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if
you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to
get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may
nd that this place is more appropriate when not alone.
QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
NOON
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make
this an ideal coeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals,
chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one
of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV
and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as
the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a
night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22,
tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
A stful of ganja Mike Studeny
Coffeeshops
B u y O r i g i n a l ,
G e t t h e B e s t
PARADOX
Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coeeshops, but
these days only a quarter of these remain, including Para-
dox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a ha-
ven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set
foot in this quiet place, even though its more than worth
a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising
young grati artists and the best works will make you feel
like youre hallucinating even when youre not stoned.QD-
7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www.
paradoxcofeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JNX
RESIN
Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green inte-
rior, this coeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite
during a visit to Amsterdam. Reecting the theme of the
famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to dis-
cern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is available
in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are TV
screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic
edge drones on in the background. The sta here arent
particularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical of
Amsterdam coeeshops where the stoned customer is
rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38.
ROKERIJ IV
The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this coeeshop can
be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring coloured
candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleasant
interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details,
this coeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or
two while making use of some of the bongs provided. The
herbal menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup
varieties and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.QE-7,
Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38, www.rokerij.org.
RUSLAND
Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coeeshop
norm, although to no extreme extent. The extensive
choice of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to com-
plement the other pungent herbs you can purchase here.
A successful but original mix of Russian and Moroccan
dcor, a common cushioned seating area complete with
a view onto the street and a friendly cat make this place
an excellent environment in which to relax alone or with
friends.QB-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68.
SIBERIE
Visit this coeeshop on a Friday or Saturday and youll be
able to enjoy some live DJing with your smoke in a cosy at-
mosphere. Candles, art work, owers on the tables as well
as good music all contribute to the success of this con-
verted garage. Some food is available, games are provided
and the large wooden tables give all the space necessary
to enjoy your time here without inconveniencing other
patrons. Unlike its Russian namesake, its located in the ur-
ban centre of the city.QA-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31)
206 23 59 09, www.cofeeshopsiberie.nl. Open 11:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW
SMART & HEAD SHOPS
AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER
Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just
buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious
Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European
country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can
ask the knowledgeable sta here everything there is to
know about cultivating this amazing plant. The shop also
sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made
from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your
home if you live in the EU.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel.
(+31) 207 37 00 60, www.amsterdamseedcenter.com.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of
3 seeds 20 - 30. JA
SENSI SEEDS
Sensi Seeds has been developing cannabis seeds for over
25 years and thanks to shops like this, growing your own
cannabis plant has never been easier. First-time growers
can nd several stable feminised seeds that grow in nearly
any climate, while experienced horticulturist can choose
special sativas and indicas. The sta can help you choose
the most suitable seeds, advise you on how to grow the
plant and inform you about any possible legal issues.
Seeds can also be bought online, but shipment is prohib-
ited to most countries outside the EU (the only exceptions
being Switzerland, Serbia and Guyana).QB-2, Oude Doel-
enstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 26 29 88, www.sensiseeds.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at A-1, Nieuwendijk 26.
Lifestyle Directory
FOOTBALL MATCHES
Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the ex-
citement of the famous arena or just as part of a football
pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands of tourists
every year. There are a high number of season ticket
holders, so only a few thousand seats are for sale for
each game, which can be bought via the ocial Ajax
site (www.ajax.nl). Unfortunately, even when a game
has ocially sold out, youll often nd lots of empty
seats in the stadium as not all season ticket holders are
completely loyal to their team. The matches, however,
are seldom boring in large part due to Section 410. This
part of the stadium is populated by mostly young fans
that are the teams most die-hard supporters. This is in
stark contrast to the ocial so-called core support of
the F-side, which you can nd behind the goal. Theyve
recently been overshadowed by the young supporters
of 410. Photo courtesy of Ajax Football Club
Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11
13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.
Upcoming matches at Amsterdam Arena:
13.04 Ajax vs. ADO The Hague AA
03.05 Ajax vs. NEC AA
17.05 Netherlands vs. Ecuador AA
04.06 Netherlands vs. Wales AA
Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail
or nd a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Looking for
a place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to
keep your hangover in check? Youll nd the answers here.
BICYCLE REPAIR
HET ZWARTE FIETSENPLAN
Looking for replacement parts for your bike? Crashed into
a car and need repairs? These guys will sort you out.QF-8,
Lijnbaansgracht 282 - 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A
BOWLING
KNIJN BOWLING
A lane will cost you 21 - 28/hour depending on the day
and time or you could come for disco bowling at the
weekend from 23:00 for 11.50.QD-6, Scheldplein 3, tel.
(+31) 206 64 22 11, www.knijnbowling.nl. AK
CLIMBING
FUN FOREST CLIMBING PARK
This climbing park has eight dierent courses of varying
heights and levels of diculty located in trees. The park is
almost always open except during strong winds, thunder-
storms or heavy rain.QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen, tel.
(+31) 206 42 96 83, www.funforest.nl. Open April - Oc-
tober 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: 12.50 - 21.50.
DENTISTS
TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT
QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@
tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00,
Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GOLF
GOLFBAAN AMSTERDAM
You can play 9 holes for 24 - 31 or 18 holes 39 - 49, but
if youd like to save plenty of cash you can reserve an early
bird tee time.QBuikslotermeerdijk 141, tel. (+31) 206 36
10 10, www.golfbaanamsterdam.nl.
HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS
HAIR POLICE
The Hair Police specialise in dreads, extensions and braids
as well as cuts and colouring.QJ-7, Tweede oosterpark-
straat 36H, tel. (+31) 204 20 58 41, www.hairpolice.nl.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
KINKI KAPPERS
Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon.
QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@
kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 -
21:00. Closed Sun.
HORSE RIDING
DE HOLLANDSCHE MANEGE
35 horses and 15 ponies are at your disposal at the Dutch
Riding School, which has been in operation in the Von-
del Park since 1882.QE-9, Vondelstraat 140, tel. (+31)
206 18 09 42, info@dehollandschemanege.nl, www.
dehollandschemanege.nl.
Save some cash and have a brown bag picnic next to a canal
Lifestyle Directory
LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS
POWDERS
This is a full service or self-service laundry that oers free
wi-, internet access and printing as well as drinks and
snacks.QF-7, Kerkstraat 56, tel. (+31) 626 30 60 57, www.
powders.nl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
THE CLEAN BROTHERS WASSERETTE
Wash your own clothes here every day.QE-4, Wester-
straat 26, tel. (+31) 206 27 98 88. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
MASSAGE
CHINA BEAUTY MASSAGE CENTER
A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot massage cost
35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage, which in-
cludes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs 20.
QA-2, Paleisstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www.
chinesemassageamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Also at Kloveniersburgwal 28 (Shanghai Beauty), tel.
(+31) 204 20 94 82.
MEDICAL & WELLNESS
EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE
The English-speaking doctors here oer medical atten-
tion, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they ac-
cept EU health cards!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel. (+31)
204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. On weekends by appointment only.
PHARMACIES
DAM APOTHEEK
Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA-2, Dam-
straat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43 31, damapotheek@ezorg.nl,
www.dam-apotheek.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30. A
REAL ESTATE
DIRECT WONEN
If youre looking for an apartment, these guys may be able
to help.QE-8, Overtoom 47, tel. (+31) 206 16 16 66, www.
directwonen.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
AMSTERDAM SOUVENIRS
Ajax memorabilia Back in its heyday, when Ajax, the
local football club, was among Europes elite teams,
loads of merchandise was produced and that tradition
hasnt subsided. For the best Ajax souvenirs visit the
World of Ajax Tour at Amsterdam ArenA. Red and white
jerseys are often also sold at local souvenir shops.
Cheese Dutch cheese is among the worlds best and for
the best big chunks of Gouda, goat or sheep cheese go
to Cheese & More on Leidsestraat. For gourmet cheese
try Reypenaer (Singel 182). Our personal favourite
would have to be Oude Amsterdam Kaas (Old Amster-
dam Cheese) sold at all local cheese shops.
Delftware The factory in Delft isnt exactly close to
Amsterdam, but Delfts Blauw (blue porcelain) is sold
everywhere in Amsterdam. Find a tourist shop and go
wild with the little cute statues. We particularly like the
Christmas ornaments at Jorrit Heinen (Prinsengracht
440) and Rinascimento (Prinsengracht 170).
Stroopwafels It looks like a gooey biscuit thats been
run over, but its actually delicious. One of the most
exported products among people visiting their friends
and family abroad (because its small, easy to transport
and very tasty), you can nd them at any supermarket
and most souvenir shops.
SPAS & BEAUTY
SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER
This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest pro-
vides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams
and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as
well. Naturally, a range of massages, beauty treatments
and wellness procedures are also on oer.QN-5, Koenen-
kade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, info@
spazuiver.nl, www.spazuiver.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. ADw
SWIMMING POOLS
SPORTPLAZA MERCATOR
A huge swimming pool, tness centre and gym.QR-3,
Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel. (+31) 206 18 89 11, info@
sportplazamercator.nl, www.sportfondsen.nl. Open
13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Froneman-
straat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 11. AC
TATTOOS & PIERCING
TATTOO PALACE
The tattoo artists have been at it here since 1989.QB-3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31) 206 38 44 48, calvo@
xs4all.nl, www.tattoopalace.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 19:00.
Bicycles as far as the eye can see M.Zaprauskis
Amsterdam for Kids
Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids
around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a caution-
ary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the lit-
tle ones. Here are some of the best.
VENUES FOR KIDS
AMSTERDAM MARIONETTE THEATRE
The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs plays in
its small theatre using traditional wooden marionettes.
Performances are usually in Dutch, but due to the vi-
sual and musical nature of the acts, most kids wont
care about the language barrier. You can also take a
backstage tour for a behind the scenes look at the mari-
onettes and costumes.QB-1, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, tel.
(+31) 206 20 80 27, info@marionettentheater.nl, www.
marionettentheater.nl. Admission: adults 16, children
7 - 14 years 7.50. Opening times vary. TJ
BALLORIG
This enormous space is lled with long rows of tables like a
German beer hall and at each table youll nd a few young
mothers and here and there a granny or two. Ballorig is
actually a huge childrens playground at the edge of the
Gaasterplas in the Zuidoost district.QW-2, Valburgdreef
1001, tel. (+31) 204 00 01 01, www.ballorig.nl. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults free, children 7.
PTULNBKW
BOUNZ
What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in train-
ing has now been transformed into a large trampoline
centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back ipping
and opping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of
fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are
guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44
81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open
13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission: 5.50/hour. TLN
BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE
Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens
paradise. The management decided that their adult male
presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from
being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a peninsula
in Rembrandt Park, oers arts and crafts classes and other
activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel. (+31)
206 18 36 04, www.impuls.nl. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. TIBC
DE PIJP PETTING ZOO (KINDERBOERDERIJ DE PIJP)
This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp
since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 dierent species
of animals from goldsh and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep
are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel.
(+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo.
nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T
RIDAMMERHOEVE GOAT FARM
This farm is a great escape for families. Although its a bit
hard to nd, its well worth the eort. Learn all about goats
and chickens as well as pigs and cows up close. You can
also buy fresh organic eggs, homemade honey and deli-
cious goat cheese to take home.QNieuwe Meerlaan 4,
tel. (+31) 206 45 50 34, info@geitenboerderij.nl, www.
geitenboerderij.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. TLNBKS
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener-
ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65 billion-
year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel and
act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change
in the future with new and advanced technologies; and
lots of other interesting stu. You can also buy lunch on
the top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the
city. A good museum shop is also available. Special activi-
ties are planned from April 27 - May 4.QH-4, Oosterdok
2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:30. Admission: 15, children under four free. Closed
April 26 for Kings Day. AK
TUNFUN SPEELPARK
In what looks like a disused underground metro station near
the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens para-
dise. If you cant nd it just follow the steady stream of fami-
lies, childrens parties and school excursions into the depth
of this enormous playground that includes slides, climbing
labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines and other
atrractions. The screams of the children can be a bit over-
whelming at times but internet access and cans of beer at
the caf help keep the cacaphony of pre-pubescant chatter
at bay. Adults are only admitted with children and only have
to pay an entrance fee for their kids.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein
7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Admission: kids 7.50, adults free. KW
Science Center NEMO frequently hosts childrens events
Dutch Highlights & Day Trips
If youre looking for a short day trip from Amsterdam or per-
haps a journey farther aeld, we have a few suggestions.
Alkmaar Kaasmarkt (Cheese Market)
Yes, it's true. Hoorn, Gouda, Woerden and Edam have
them, too, but if you'd like to see Holland's most renowned
cheese market, you have to go to Alkmaar. Every Friday
huge wheels of cheese are carried around and weighed
on the old town market, which is quite the sight. The mar-
ket is held every Friday 10:00 - 12:30 from April to the Be-
ginning of September. Trains depart from Amsterdam for
Alkmaar four times every hour.
Delft
Yes, there's also an Oude Kerk (Old Church), but the Nieuwe
Kerk is where all the deceased members of the Dutch royal
family are buried. Even legendary William of Orange rests
here for all eternity. It's quite impressive and a must-see if
you're in Delft as is the Royal Delft factory tour. See how
Holland's most famous blue porcelain has been made for
centuries (www.royaldelft.com).
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem)
Sick of the same museums around Museumplein in Am-
sterdam? The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem displays an
amazing collection of paintings by Dutch old masters and
is the museum to visit if you appreciate Dutch Golden Age
art. Haarlem is close to Amsterdam and trains run frequent-
ly between the two cities.
Keukenhof
You can't really escape it. Flowers are a part of Dutch cul-
ture. Tulips, which were actually originally imported (smug-
gled) from Turkey, are a national symbol of Holland and the
Keukenhof is the place to see them 'in the wild' once the
season starts in early spring. The huge gardens are only
open to the public for two months each year so visit www.
keukenhof.nl for more information. You can usually arrange
a trip at your hotel reception.
Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden)
Come here for an incredible museum full of artefacts from
the masters of the Golden Age. The old centre of Leiden is
also beautiful and worth a look. The city is about a 40-min-
ute train ride from Amsterdam.
Rotterdam
It's a hate-hate relationship between Amsterdam and 'the
other Dam'. There are plenty of reasons why these two cities
are so competitive. Schiphol is one of the busiest airports in
the world, while Rotterdam is home to the world's busiest
harbour. Football champions Ajax have been sparring with
Feyenoord for decades and while Amsterdam lives on its
charming medieval buildings, Rotterdam was completely
rebuilt after it was nearly levelled by bombs in WWII. If
you're tired of touristy Amsterdam and crave the sight of
a large city with a modern skyline, then Rotterdam is the
only option in the Netherlands. Take the high speed Fyra
train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam in only 41 minutes.
Sint Janskerk (Maastricht)
If you really want to travel as far from the city as possible
without leaving the country then take a train all the way
to the hilly south of the country where you can witness the
pretty sights of Maastricht among its beer-loving residents.
The reddish Gothic Sint Janskerk is the city's main highlight,
but there are loads of other things to see like Roman forts
(Fort Sint Pieter) and busy squares full of cafs.
Utrecht
If you can't get enough of the cute bunny drawings of Dick
Bruna, the Mify (Nijntje) Museum in Utrecht is the place
to go. If not, you'll almost certainly be annoyed by the small
children and the ocks of Japanese tourists here. The city
is also famous for its Roman beginnings, its incredibly tall
church spire and its unique wharf cellars. Trains to Utrecht
depart Amsterdam frequently.
Volendam
The place where all the great Dutch singers are born, Volen-
dam is basically a town of shermen and boatloads of tour-
ists wanting a taste of 'real' Dutch culture. You can dress up
in traditional costumes here or wander about its beautiful
streets. Take bus No.116 from the Central Station to Volen-
dam. The trip takes about 30 minutes.
Zaanse Schans (Zaandam)
But where are all the windmills? If you've asked this ques-
tion in Amsterdam, you're not the only one. In fact, Amster-
dam doesn't have that many and you won't nd any in the
centre of town. We recommend a trip to Zaanse Schans,
where you'll have plenty of opportunities to spot one of
Holland's most endearing symbols. You'll have to deal with
crowds though as the well-preserved windmills and tra-
ditional houses here attract almost a million visitors every
year. Connexxion bus No.391 departs from the Amsterdam
Central Station every hour during the day. The trip takes
about 40 minutes. You can also take a train to Koog-Zaandi-
jk station and then walk 15 minutes to Zaanse Schans.
Utrechts historic Oudegracht Toerisme Utrecht
Zandvoort
Take a bike ride on the boardwalk or through Zandvoorts dunes
Sometimes theres nothing better than replacing the hus-
tle and bustle of a large city with the peace and tranquility
of the seaside. Zandvoort is not only the closest North Sea
beach to Amsterdam, but its also one of Hollands most
beloved summer resorts. The view of the North Sea will
never disappoint and the fact that the beach at Zandvoort
is one of the safest and cleanest in the country only adds
to its popularity. But the beach isnt the only reason why
people come here in droves.The town exudes a cosiness
and a laid-back atmosphere that cant be beat, while the in-
spiring landscapes of the dunes at the Zuid-Kennemerland
National Park are just magical. Hollands most famous race
track is also located in Zandvoort and its seaside cafs and
restaurants provide an unforgettable dining experience.
ARRIVING IN ZANDVOORT
Most visitors reach Zandvoort either by train or by car. From
Amsterdam Central Station trains depart every half hour
toward the Zandvoort aan Zee Station. The journey takes
about 30 minutes and after a short interruption at Haarlem
Station, the train brings passengers through the landscape
of dunes at Zuid-Kennemerland to the beach town on the
North Sea. During the summer months, an extra service is
provided to and from Haarlem every 30 minutes. A one-
way ticket to Zandvoort costs 5 from Amsterdam or 2.10
from Haarlem.
Travelling by car to Zandvoort is a bit more complicated.
Follow the highway to Haarlem, navigate through the city
and nd either the N201 or the N200. Both roads connect
Haarlem with Zandvoort.
ACCOMMODATION
CAMPING DE BRANDING
This charming campground is only steps away from the
towns main attraction the beach. You can pitch a tent,
park your caravan or reserve one of its cottages that include
bunk beds, a refrigerator and a gas stove top. You can also
take full advantage of its other amenities including shared
toilets and showers, a bar with free wi- and computers, a
small supermarket and a playground for the kids.QBoule-
vard Barnaart 30, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 237 51 68 00, www.
campingdebranding.nl. (tents 15 - 22, caravans 16 - 24,
2- or 4-person cottages 80 - 150). TJAW
PENSION VILLA TANAH-LOT
If you cant pronounce the name correctly, dont worry. Ta-
nah-Lot actually refers to a Buddhist temple on the lovely
island of Bali and although the owners of this pension are
of Dutch and German origin, 99% of the interior is taste-
fully decorated with beautiful Asian artefacts. Finding the
right house is actually quiet easy too, as the front porch
also boasts a typical Indonesian becak (bicycle). Inside
seven rooms at your disposal, varying greatly in size and
price. The beach and centre of town are just a short stroll
away.QBrederodestraat 49, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 73
78 01, www.villa-tanahlot.nl. 7 rooms (doubles, studios
and apartments from 80). Breakfast: 7.50. A
EATING & DRINKING
BOOMERANG
This bar/restaurant has all the nick-nacks for which Austra-
lia is famous from the plastic crocodile on the ceiling to the
surfboard on the wall. Naturally, ice cold Fosters is available
on draught (sorry, no Coopers) and a more relaxed, Down
Under attitude cant be found anywhere in this charming
shermens town. Order a Sally Crock (crocodile llet) or a
mixed Aboriginal grill. QPassage 46-48, Zandvoort, tel.
(+31) 235 71 92 13, www.eetcafe-boomerang.nl. Open
11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. TJALG
CIRCUS ZANDVOORT
If youre in Zandvoort on a rainy day you might try entering
this colourful gaming hall to change your luck. If you have
children with you, have no fear. Drop them o downstairs
with some change and theyll probably return high on sug-
ar, covered in chocolate and holding two or three stued
animals in their hot little hands. QGasthuisplein 5, Zand-
voort, tel. (+31) 235 71 86 86, www.circuszandvoort.nl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. OTAUG
MANGOS BEACH BAR
Mangos Beach Bar has been a place for cool hipsters to
drink cocktails and fancy beers since early 2000. Youll
nd beautiful girls behind the bar, a state of the art inte-
rior and a menu with a large enough selection of meals
to please both healthy females (salads) and meat-loving
men (steaks). Although the sta look like lm stars, theyre
surprisingly down to earth and the food is brilliant, but far
from expensive. QBoulevard Barnaart 15, Zandvoort,
tel. (+31) 235 71 27 88, www.mangosbeachbar.nl.
HET PLEIN FAST FOOD
Zandvoort is blessed with one of the best snack bars in
the country. Het Plein currently ranks 33rd in the Cafetaria
top 100, a list of the cream of the crop of the thousands of
Dutch snack establishments in the country. Fresh, home-
made fries is Het Pleins major advantage, while the friendly
service and the great location in the heart of town also add
to its popularity. For a healthy snack, try one of the sand-
wiches with a glass of orange juice.QKerkplein 12, Zand-
voort, tel. (+31) 235 73 26 25, www.snackshetplein.nl.
Open 10:00 - 21:00. (2 - 4). BXS
Zandvoort
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
April More info at www.vvvzandvoort.com
19 & 21 The Easter races are full of excitement
and spectacle. Experience the start of
the national racing season and enjoy a
spectacular stunt show
May
17 & 18 Fun weekend event for the whole
family with a 24-hour race, soapbox
races, ATB clinic, spinning marathon
and much more
18 The Spring Market - a lively fair in the
city centre of Zandvoort
June
6 - 7 Battle of the Coast: a 2-day World Cup
SUP event in on the beach at Zand
voort! The big fnale is a race on June 7
8 Zandvoort (A)Live: relax during the day
on the beach AND in the evening enjoy
a delicious meal, a glass of wine and
then party!
20 - 22 Culinair Zandvoort. Enjoy the culinary
highlights of Zandvoorts restaurants
More info at www.vvvzandvoort.com
PLACES OF INTEREST
AMSTERDAMSE WATERLEIDINGDUINEN
The dunes just south of Zandvoort are a great place to do
some hiking in a gorgeous Dutch coastal landscape. The
nature reserve oers a mixture of dunes and waterways,
which have been used to purify the local water supply
since the 19th century. Quite simply, the ne sand of the
dunes naturally lters rain water. The nature park has four
entrances and from Zandvoort the nearest entry point is
just south of the De Duinrand (Zandvoorselaan 130) res-
taurant. The De Oranjekom visitor centre is located near
the eastern entrance at Eerste Leijweg. Tickets can be
bought at the De Duinrand restaurant, De Oranjekom or
at the tourist oce in Zandvoort. Keep the ticket with you
as forest rangers might ask you to show it. Bicycles are pro-
hibited.QZandvoortselaan 130, tel. (+31) 206 08 75 95,
www.waternet.nl. Admission: 1.50/person. 6
USEFUL ADDRESSES
TOURIST INFORMATION (VVV ZANDVOORT)
Start your trip to Zandvoort at the tourist information of-
ce where you can pick up some brochures, get yourself
some souvenirs and re all questions you have at the
knowledgeable and enthusiastic sta. The tourist oce is
located in the centre of town, in a small side street o of
Kerkstraat.QBakkerstraat 2/b, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235
71 79 47, www.vvvzandvoort.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Netherlands Map
&Samhoud Places 18
Abraxas 56
Albert Cuyp Market 51
Alto Jazz Caf 23
Amnesia 56
Amstel Botel 36
Amsterdam Canal
Cruises 24
msterdam Marina 45
Amsterdam Museum 25
Amsterdam North
Museum 42
Amsterdam Passenger
Terminal 7
Amsterdam Seed
Center 59
Amsterdamse Poort 53
Amsterdam Tulip
Museum 25
Artis Royal Zoo 28
A-Train Hotel 13
Attic Empire 44
Avis 6
Badhuis Javaplein 46
Bagels & Beans 52
Banketbakkerij Schep 47
BAR 22 20
Barkode 22
Barneys 57
Bastion Deluxe Hotel
Amsterdam / Centrum
- Noord 36
Bazar 50
B&B Durgerdam
Countryside 38
B&B Kwint 38
Beekhoven Bikes 44
Beer Temple 21
Best Western Blue
Square Hotel 34
Beurs van Berlage 24
Biblos 20
Bijlmer Park 53
Bird 17
Black Bikes 6
Blue Boat Company 24
Bobs Youth Hostel 13
Brewers Canal 27
British General Stores
49
(B)Brood NDSM 38
Brooklyn Hotel 38
Brouwerij De 7
Deugden 35
Brouwerij t IJ 21
Buiksloterkerk 42
Bulldog No. 90 57
Caf Belgique 21
Caf DECK5 17
Caf de Koe 20
Caf de Zwart 19
Caf Emmelot 20
Caf George 19
Caf Karpershoek 22
Caf Kobalt 19
Cafe Koehuis Blokker
41
Caf Koosje 19
Caf La Rosa 41
Cafe Lellebel 54
Caf Papeneiland 22
Caf Pieper 22
Caf Proust 16
Caf Rouge 54
Caf Scheltema 19
Caf Sound Garden 20
Cafe t Eitje 41
Cafe t Sluisje 38
Caf Van Zuylen 19
Canal Bike 6
Canal House 13
Casa Rosso 20
Club Church 54
Club Escape 22
Dante Kitchen & Bar 16
Dapperstraat Market 47
De Beiaard 21
De Bijenkorf Kitchen 14
De Halve Maen 34
De Kat in de Wijngaert
19
De Keu 48
De Pannekoekenboot
41
De Ponteneur 46
Desa 50
De Smeltkroes 52
De Soepboer 40
De Taart van mn Tante
50
Dolphins 57
Door 74 23
Droomfabriek 47
Durgerdam 43
Dutch Design Hotel
Artemis 34
Easy Times 57
Eden Amsterdam
Manor Hotel 46
Eetcaf Het Dijkhuis 40
Elsas Caf 47
Erasmuspark 49
Europcar 6
EYE Bar-Restaurant 40
EYE Film Institute 43
Fenan Klein Afrika 48
Fletcher Hotel
Amsterdam 52
Floating Dutchman 24
Flower Market 27
FOAM: Photography
Museum Amsterdam
25
Friday Next 49
Funny People 58
Gaasper Park 53
Gandhi 15
Gay Tourist Information
Centre 54
George Deli U.S.A. 19
Golden Brown Bar 48
Gollems Proeokaal 48
Grasshopper 58
Grill Steakhouse Mama
15
Glloglu 18
Haring Naatje 39
Heineken Experience
51
Hendrikse Patisserie &
Conserie 49
Hermitage Amsterdam
28
Het Grachtenhuis 26
Het Karbeel 15
Het Kraanspoor 42
Het Schip Museum 49
Hip Wonen 49
Hortus Botanical
Gardens 28
Hotel De Looier 13
Hotel De Oude
Taveerne 36
Hotel Die Port van
Cleve 12
Hotel Notting Hill
Amsterdam 13
Hotel Sint Nicolaas 13
Hotel Vondel 48
Houseboat Museum 26
House of Bols
Cocktail and Genever
Experience 51
Ichi-e 52
Il Tramezzino 16
In de Olofspoort 23
In de Wildeman 21
InterContinental
Amstel Amsterdam 12
Jacques Jour 38
Kantjil & de Tijger 16
Kastino Molenwijk 44
Katsu 58
Katten Kabinet 26
Keramiek Atelier
Marjoke de Heer 44
Kerk Zunderdorp 42
Koepel Caf 19
Lake Sloterplas 35
Landmarkt Amsterdam
44
La Perla 17
La Tertulia 58
La Vie En Rose B&B and
Apartments 13
Left Bank Scooters 7
Lempicka 16
Lion of Judah 58
Loetje aan het IJ 41
Los Pilones 17
Louis Bar 21
Mac Bike 6
Magic 58
Manneken Pis 15
Maritime Quarter 43
Maxime Boutique
Hotel 50
Mei Wah 39
Meram Restaurant 52
Metropolitan Deli 15
Montmartre 54
Mt. Everest 40
Museum Geelvinck 26
Museum of Bags and
Purses 26
Museum of the Tropics
47
Museum Willet-
Holthuysen 26
Nachttheater Sugar
Factory 22
Nam Kee 14
National Maritime
Museum Amsterdam
28
National Monument 27
NDSM-werf 43
NH City Centre
Amsterdam 13
NH Galaxy Amsterdam
36
Noon 58
Noorderpark 43
Nyonya Malaysia
Express 16
Osaka 40
Paradox 59
Park Hotel Amsterdam
50
Path Arena 53
Perry Arena 53
Pianola Museum 26
Pietje Frietje 39
Pink Point &
Homomonument 54
Portuguese Synagogue
29
Prik 55
Proeokaal de Prael 21
Puspita 40
Reality 55
Recycled Rentals 6
Rembrandt Park 35
Renaissance
Amsterdam Hotel 12
Rent a Bike 6
Resin 59
Retro In- & Outstyles 49
Rijksmuseum 51
Rokerij IV 59
Ro Music & Movie
Palace 47
Royal Palace
Amsterdam 27
Royal Thai 17
Rusland 59
Satellite Sports Caf 23
Science Center NEMO
28, 62
Sculpture Garden 43
Sensi Seeds 59
Siberie 59
SkyLounge 23
Skyy Bar 34
Sloep Delen 6
Sloten Windmill 35
Sloterkerk 35
Small Talk Coee
Corner 50
Snoek Strips en Games
47
Starbucks 14
Stayokay Amsterdam
Zeeburg 46
Stedelijk Museum 51
Stijlkamer Stek 44
Stork 41
Studio 2 14
Syriana 34
Taboo 55
TCA Taxi 7
Teddys Corner 14
Texaco 7
The 1800 Rods 35
The Bananen Bar &
Club 20
The Hash, Marihuana &
Hemp Museum 27
The Mint Tower 24
The Old Church 24
The Pancake Bakery 17
The Pool Hole 21
The Queens Head 55
The Rembrandt House
Museum 29
Tibet Restaurant 18
t Lieverdje 15
Tokyo Cafe 17
Tonys NY City Bagels
14
Trommelwoningen 42
Twenty Third Bar 50
Van der Pekbuurt 42
Van Dijk & Ko
Van Gogh Museum 51
Van Loon Museum 27
Vermeer 18
Vietnam Restaurant 18
Villa Arena Woonmall
53
Vivelavie 55
Vyne 23
Waterland Recreation
43
Watertaxi 7
Westerkerk 24
Westerpark 49
Wetlands Safari 43
Whiskycaf L&B 23
Wilhelmina-Dok 40
Winston Kingdom 22
Wooden Houses
(Noord) 42
Yokiyo 16
Zuid Zeeland 15
Venue Index
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Amsterdam
(Next to the Sensi Seed Bank)
Open all week from 10:00 until 23:00
www.hashmuseum.com
SHOW THIS ADVERT AT THE
MUSEUM ENTRANCE TO RECEIVE A
FREE SOUVENIR!
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