INSECTS AND THEIR CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE IN FASHION
Written By: Elaine C Yang
ENTM206 JUNE 2014
2 INTRODUCTION Insects are the most successful of all organisms and dominate all factors of the human existence. They have a direct impact on human life as competitors for food, fiber, and other natural resources. While their presence may seem to be a nuisance, these terrestrials outnumber the human race by a ratio of 312 to 1. In most cases the coexistence of insects with the human race tend to bring destruction and annoyance as they contaminate products, damage crops, demolish structures, and invade human homes. Despite all of the negative aspects that are associated with insects their presence have struck a positive influence within the cultural and social realms of literature, film, music, and art. While the majority of society sees insects as pests, artists have looked to these critters for inspiration towards the development of many fine pieces of work. One industry of artists that have incorporated insects into their line of works is the fashion industry.
SILK ROAD Parisian Couture, otherwise known as Haute Couture is the highest level of womens fashion. The top couturiers seek out only the finest of fabrics, amongst the collections presented by silk manufacturers. Through this process of selection, the fashion industry insures that silk will be used in the best applicable way towards the creation of luxury garments. Silk has been widely prized throughout history and can be geographically traced back to the continent of Asia. Wild populations of silkworms (Bombyx mori) had once dwelled within the regions of Asia before becoming locally domesticated. China, Japan, Italy, France and Spain are the main producers of silkworm. As each larva spins its cocoon, it produces a continuous fiber of silk that is about 0.075 mm (3/1000 inch) thick and 900 to 1500 m (3000-5000 ft) in length (Meyer, 2007). Silk has
3 contributed to the worldwide prestige of the fashion industry, compromising much of the ready-to- wear sectors categorized as luxe. Silk has been highly appraised for its material quality. Silk is the strongest of all natural fibers and has a resilience of elasticity; it is lightweight, wrinkle resistant, and the delicacy of the fabric provides comfort against the skin. Many fashion pieces created from silk include, lingerie, lace, passementeries, tulles, bridal veils, scarves, and ties.
LONDON FASHION WEEK 2012 Being the most varied of all organisms insects come in all shapes, colors, and sizes. With around 10-20 million species of insects, their aesthetic variation hosts a great array of design concepts that have made its way across a wide spectrum of fashionable pieces. London Fashion Week 2012 featured a most striking series of fashion that was exhibited by Fyodor Golan. Fashion designers, Golan Frydman and Latviam Fydor Podgomy coined their collection from the inspiration of Russian peasants, tzars and insects. The designers said they found inspiration in insects that changed themselves for protection. Utilizing biology and
4 research from insects from beetles to butterflies, microscopic detail is explored and dissected. Focusing on their construction and innate qualities, these are evolved into the pattern process to create fragility and strength reflecting the creature itself in the aesthetic (dailymail.co.uk, 2012).
MCQUEEN COLLECTION 2013 The insect trend did not cease at the London Fashion Week 2012, but carried forth into the spring/summer 2013 collection of one of the industrys highly renowned designers, Alexander McQueen. The collection exaggerates the female hip silhouette in tribute to the wasp. Rich with honeycomb pencil skirts and cropped panel trousers, the collection is more than attention getting with original, matching accessories. The cuff bracelets and ornamental chokers of the collection accentuate the honeycomb-designed mid-shoe heels and stunning hats (styleheve.com, 2013).
5
Keeping with the line of consistency, Alexander McQueen presented an exclusive collaboration with English artist and entrepreneur Damien Hirst in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the signature skull scarf. The collection featured 30 unique designs. The partnership seamlessly plays on the shared aesthetic vision of Hirst and McQueen, in which an interest in symmetrical design is combined with strong references to the natural world. Each artwork is adapted from Hirsts Entomology series; butterflies, bugs, spiders and other insects have been worked into each scarf design to form kaleidoscopic geometric shapes, laid out to create the signature McQueen skull motif (exandermcqueen.com, 2013).
6 CONCLUSION With the constant search for beauty and incorporation of Mother Nature, the emergence of insect influence on fashion will continue to be on trend. As an aspiring individual with an interest for fashion, journalism, art, and photography entomology has instilled upon me a greater appreciation for the aesthetics of nature. Ive developed a greater understanding of insects, their functions in society, and their impact on the human race. Their presence has now become more evident to me, whereas they use to be overlooked. In the world of fashion they spark innovation and creation. Im truly amazed by how much of an impact insects have had in the fashion industry within these few years. Perhaps a lesson to be taken away from this is that a creative mind can turn anything in its simplest form into something marvelous. Like a caterpillar that waits its day in becoming a beautiful butterfly, great things are crafted through time. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but beauty is also learning to appreciate simplicity.
7 WORKS CITED 1. Arthurs, Deborah. "The Aliens Have Landed! Green Skin, Crazy Hair and See-through Dresses... Yes, It's London Fashion Week Again." Daily Mail Online. Associated Newspapers, 18 Feb. 2012. Web. 11 June 2014. 2. "Damien Hirst & Alexander McQueen Collaboration." Alexander McQueen. N.p., 13 Nov. 2013. Web. 11 June 2014. 3. McClain, Kia. "The Alexander McQueen 2013 Spring/Summer Runway Collection." Stylish Eve. N.p., 26 Sept. 2013. Web. 11 June 2014. 4. Meyer, John R. "Impact of Insects." Impact of Insects. NC State University, Jan. 2007. Web. 11 June 2014. 5. "The Uses of Silk." The Uses of Silk. INTER Soie FRANCE, n.d. Web. 11 June 2014.
Practical Taxidermy: A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting up Natural History Specimens of All Kinds. To Which is Added a Chapter Upon the Pictorial Arrangement of Museums
Fabric For Fashion - The Complete Guide - Natural and Man-Made - Laurence King Publishing. Baum, Myka Hallett, - 2014 - Laurence King Publishing - 9781780673349 - A
The Indian Ornithological Collector's Vade Mecum - Containing Brief Practical Instructions for Collecting, Preserving, Packing, and Keeping Specimens of Birds, Eggs, Nests, Feathers and Skeletons
Adapt: How Humans Are Tapping into Nature's Secrets to Design and Build a Better Future: How Humans Are Tapping into Nature's Secrets to Design and Build a Better Future
Artistic and Scientific Taxidermy and Modelling - A Manual of Instruction in the Methods of Preserving and Reproducing the Correct Form of All Natural Objects, Including a Chapter on the Modelling of Foliage