GOVERNMENT OP INDIA

AROli&OLOCIOAL SUltVEY OF INDIA

CENTRAL
A RCHJEOLOGICAi
LIBRARY
CALL Nu.
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MY PILGRIMAGES
TO
A]ANT A & BAGH

Ry
SRI MUKUL CHANDRA DEY

1Vi'lh .n InttOductiotl by
B1NYON
' f!,' ,52-
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THOPJ..'TON BUTTER WOR.TH, UMITfD
IS BEDfORD STReeT, LONDON, W.C. l
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C'NTR..\ L AR! ~ \EOLOClCA'
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TO TUlt )lIIlIOIIY or
WlLLLUI WL'I;5TANl.Y l'E,. .... n.soN

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CONTENTS



X. FI.,. PlLGaDUaI; l'O ,vIonA
"

A Dao.,,,"o,, QP T1Q c..,.
"

TIll: 1.1"", W (l .. D.;"",..
. .

Mp SO:COlllI VU-I,. TO .\1 ..........
..
O. f H ..... ,,. "y Wou III TU.Il c.. ...
"

IloIor '"'" Col.'" ... ".. , ..... ST .. ...-.c"
.M

T1Ia en.
._i .......
. .
u

.1:1.,. liQv..,..,.. DuTR
n
o. I M., .... no ne: c..n:a
'M
".
____ r l&l4o&,... Al<D o...nWlK
".
U.
Tna Fu<UT PUfWI IJI' Ix" .... An
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l !f.
M1' I ....... Du'. u
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""1' PlLG:auo..oo .. 'I\> n ..... . .
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,
UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
l'dlm, atShriflr. I
GtM"u View., Ajanta c ...... d>owh.,: u, ... I to "
I"'-"in, .. t,;hot an t bo, ... y to AJ ... ,,- ..
TI", ... d III
of FI)'hIi FIcu ..... ea .... IT -'ff
]"1",, QIoom ...... f lqpt C""'l> and t,n'. IImd.
t: .,. 11 ........" 10
1'1", CIIm.,- Dl .. "jail" ea ................. r._
I ttoM _. 11
n .. Ai""" Gotp. """ .... C.W to\: _, "
Ku., lliml:oiws. hi. Quem. ...d AII....s.m.., _ 1<"1
,,,thln C.w 11 M
",'b 11.:.1(' ... Y"';.tte.. Can If
,H:m ..... ". Fly_l\appeT. ea...., n .
A 1111I'It/:l' ..... Wild C- "

"1''''''' C.uu. .... I!.ol..hl", in I
w_ IIIOddlut. C ", I
".., ToIld ut. Qt-. Cue it
",., Tcn.ptat>on or Buddha. Cave 1
11""" .... T ... hI .... e. .... 17



" K"". Qco_ ..... vm- .,j.b m' ...... Alto.
da.!>to., Ca'"e 10 . ' '
. cl en.. . . .
1 .. 1<: .... H.-,. ", t.. . .. 0. ..;u, s-....J St..,. la u..
IJlldoUr
",ra ,
"
..
H
..
"

..
"
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'r.
n'
,
/.iM 0/ / lIlUtrlllioM
8&nIrnb 01 QI" 7
.. ... II
8&noDda 01 Ca,." 11
no. ny..., l'ri_ c.,..., III
.
.-
,,'
'"
'"
,.
Tbo Kin; <J/ Bma ... It-tWjj: lbe (;old.,. t:.-.
c."" 11
CdUnr oIllanLaW. Ca,,,, 11
C ..... pllll.M ........... ....-I1II ,_ 11
'rhIl JIodhloet ...... Six.loalttd ...... I'h ... t,(nc 11
T1w c..pt .. ", '" 1'-' ... ..IIophanb. Ca..., 17
'"
'"
,.
,.
I KI
TM Lal><lillll ,.,! C_tion of "'''' Ill).,.. hi
C..,.Ion, C."" 11 .
" 1I....w.c s...-. 17
"...;acIe 01 c.''e
A .. Abve' .. 11..,,_ C .... ID
!loci .hoY" 1.'11,.., IP
Tril_ "'OWl)", C."r 10
I..,wn fIUl 01 ........,. ea .... ID
Tt.. 1I'1bi: SloW 01' Ibl s.. .... eo ... 11
A (' ... 1.1 In tJw Cal't .
.
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A ... and AII.Dlgnl. t: "
IlIltftu, of III

LcwouSton:y. Ca ....
In'_oIC...... _.

ItoyaI Lo\'" s..a.,... c.. ... 17
'11", IIfrth oIliWiIha. C''''e ,
A ..,.,. PunW", ... _ 01' \lit. Cawt Cave
It. Lot ....... Ju.w;tb 1I""""".nd Wild ea ... !f
A Ilim l..rdr l'rq"". 10 \.i8t n..ldho.. Ca,.., 'f
.... 1
(Wiq of a._la, C .... I
111
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100
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1&8
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,W
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t>t;""" eau ..... ouod hi! ".r.-. V ....... n .... wuJa
' \ .. ....,111 ... Ca,', I _ III::J
"
Bod,'"kw vi hlrd Cirl, Ca--= ,
... 1""- !!<on",. Ca,-. I
edll"''' ....... ea .... I
.. ttll
lluor" IDt.o lJo. Ropl Md. 01 C''''e tII
I.kriur of Ca", ,.

I'illa .. 011 tlIII ktt of c..''e If(!
..
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Paad;D c..uu,.oISbriat. Co...., I ,_
..
I " .' ....... 01 'ho I c.-. by LIlo n ..... tIq ...... "
The lWa C .... ill \.he &p mu.
.
_.
Of'
1111
. I
.. l ot
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, ..
'"

'"
'"
Women CarryInc,. ... to Iho:U Me. In w
tidUo .
'" ...
The J\lrtp:. \"iIlqe a.ca:r nap. ",hon! I oJrpI.
t:..lrucI! 10 Ca..., t, a..p
Ca,. a, &Irh. .hGwI.,. ""'" \.he _hoW vi ftonllSdoo '-
r.u.;; tn r""" vi u.e ... _
n.. Ca.., ... 8.eIt
l'how,rnoph or IIIU""w.,.}I111..t
A GftIup 01 . dI;l ..... 1" .. c. ..... I, Hoteh
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE IUl
.. In the SIwwIe." u.. Uol".I.'_
n. Sa, .. ked Dopbant. c."'C 10
n .. do,lluo T ..... ta .... c.''f! 11
..
Map otCmlral l .<lllla, 0li0 ..... AjlUlt,r, -' n., ..
,,_. Wall I'lIiIItiIIIIa Ca", 10
f'iro". r""" u.. Old..t In Ca .... 10
lIad Dr...;"'. ea ... 10
Il .. c 18
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...
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n
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1"au>UItt 0 .... u... Doof 0( ea ... 11
rt.n of t:.''C 11
J .... nolC.' .. t .
A"'''''''' frwn I ...... thlll: In (' ... ~ 'l
Tbe- M .......... ,et ill 0. ... !
.... ......... n painllnr la Co,," 1
n .. 'l'tml'latioa of n".ldlwl
n.-Wt.'. r .d Raihllf'" 1.,(01; .. I o w .....
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INTRODUCTION
'l'lIE .. ,,11 paintings Cl!' AjllllLR ha'"e I.ICII'n tnlIdt
lilt '\lbjnt of tlabomu and lumptUUUll worn,
$uch as lhe t .. "o r,llia voIullleI !'IuWWted by
llr. John Grimths in \89fVl. and tht portI'oIio
orrqm)ducUonJ by Lady lIerriog-
hnm and htr u..istanu, ..-iUI ISIIaY'
nlld Jesmptioll!l by ,ariout hands:, for Lh ...
India Soc:iety, in tD!!I. These publications an!
in the hllnd. QC !.be tehoIus: but 1iKR' I'QOI'TI
and need for" more fK'Pulnr book 011 the ,wnt.-
in!;$. for thty should be kn(nt'n to.1I tht; woml.
The l'ft'!ooI:nt work. ..... ttcn by Mr. llllku\ J.)ooy
rIMing IndiM IIrtist, who h .. hhruclf llIade
copies from till!': paintings. " 'iII do IOmethinc.
I hope. toward_ ,upplying that need.
It it! _what pre5UIUJlhlOllJ (or one .ho
11l1li hinlSdf never _n L/lr pninUngI to write
.bout tho:m. Out .. 11 malter or fact vcry ftw
of the Jo:nglbh in IDdIa luwc tvct visital
the r.ves, and if thcte is an)" excmoe for rn!
(In::IUIl1Iltioll. It ;. Ih.1 I hlwl: bec:n for. w1
U ... IIY yatn 11 etf LlIoe art of AWl, IIn.1
,r Ille rtlation5 bctW1't'1I the arts uf the "Iln."u.
"

MII ID JJjlJ1lID arid 8111"
at that mnlinmt. In tJle art. 01
AQa, AjMta is ODe of the eenl:J1ll monuments.
It is indeed one of the gte:Ill monuments in the
art. of the worid.
In China there onoe existed countl$ l:lCOtll
on a grand --'e. among Ulem p..oo.bly .ome
ol thl' finest paintings e\'er made. But all.
a lew prorincia.l Spedllll':llI. IaVt peri.thed.
All Ule more thCTefore mual we pri1.e the .plen.
did kriell .till I'xiBting lit AjllnLa, togctJlu wiUI
U105e. 1_ known but eq .... lly ","ol'llierful, UlouGh
al .. I only a mere remnant. at Oaah,
Though kromm to me only thf'OUgb copies
and these lrucoes-not techni
ealI,. "'fI"Ctl!Oe!l" in the strirllll'n5e 01 the tenn.
but the 'II'onI it COIInnieut teem more wonder-
rut. lhe more they ate .tudied. Iy appro.ch
to Indian art wu made by way of the art of
the Further East, of China and J ... n; and.t
lint. my mind being filkd with the entba.nt
mcnt of design, Ule myatcnow felicity of lp6('ing,
or ,..hio;:h the grtal mastel'J of these eountrice
hAd the Kent, I wu put out by the tcemfna
lndian exuberance of Ajanta. But Ajanta allOW5,
many kiOlk ol eomporrition. Some or the paint-
inp nth"" repd me .till. oUlCn delight Ol,e
more and 1Il(H'e; and 1 can .... cll Imagine that
entering from Uae bot 5Undtine into thoae dkn
"

,
iHlI I'flgrilMgn III Ajanta (md lhu:fI
tf:mples II.lld rrnchw.Uy adapting one', "'ya to
glQllm, Olle W'tJUld r'fmh'c II.n an
overpowmp, 01 aD .rt unmalthtcl
for iL1l fullnew, illl 'pontoneily. ita _Iow and
diversity or livina: {onnlI. Groups, ]m'clf and
animated in tbei.r rultUnLI and
lingle rlfW'N o( .trange fJUljelty. of inerr.bk
c:ompMSion. "Uract the eye and haunt til(ll
,,,cmOf)'. 001' 01' mo.l unfotgeUII.ble tbinjlll
ill the pllp 01' lbe WOOWl .nd dtild matinll
offerings to the glorifted Buddha,
In lbit book fmm Mr. Mllkul Dey'. IPy. The
Itroup of the WOll1/l11 .nd ehild alone has btw
i1hllllrated both in Mr. GriffiUa'. book and in
the l odia publication: but .uange to
"y. with the (ltUt. flllUteorU .. Bllddim omitted.
80 thal on. rould emir gUCM .l the motive
inspiring lbe mo .. "uw:nt. or lbe mnthu and h"r
boy. for lieu .Iane we t.bould o.e .. debt of
,lQ'titude la Mr. Dc)'. 1 terneDlbcr no pic:tul"l:
llIlywhere DIOJ"C pl"Ofowully IIIlpf'Cllllh'c in gnl.ll-
dt-ur and in ' ctllkn\tS5. l'rimiUYe these painl
illp might be called. in the M!llIl! UI4l they aft:
ullIOphisticaUd and fresh in thtir allMk on
pidorial l,robIC!mI ; but what Mtoni.hing euc,
wh.t trudQm (rom .tiff. a('(Cpttd lunnut.
artw. bad I TIlt'y ba\'e llM!- kind of JlIltJIrisinc:
inttinctivc m&Jtcry. Wlt ... ....t and unblhourtd,
,
17

JIy Pil(ri_/:Q 10 AjUNO tJffd flogit
11 gill. ... oI child will ,how in ",ndering ronnt
and tllOVe!)}l'nt-.
lIt, 111ll:11t'llsttin, IYIIO is III Ilteuliar syn11lAU,y
with TndUtn ut, ha! jusUy ma..il' the point that
in Chin. and JAJl3n. Tlufldhism WAS 11 fUn'ign
reli[!ioo. l1li11 Buddhist art eMW to llld!' countriet
Will, hlcratko tmdition QJ[ ... 1 and
tOTmu\.t.led. 1'hc Cbinl"&l! .n" JnpnnC'lC nUlSten
had A art or U,,:!lr Oll'n, hut in t,heir
Buddhist wor'" cll1ployi'd JlpecW style: tbe:ir
p:lintinp vf the Buddlw and 8orlbisaU\"M
evoke my.t.erlousand rtllloU': or stn..nge
beauty AlId spiritual ufX'C't. 11' If appe&rln, Ollt
orth .. IllWllpllrl rrum the troubled
"" tlr't! or IIlfll. 'nil: AJllIlt" puinlinlll Itl'tl 1111
Buddhist: ""' ne,o,prcl in Ilu,lilhi.t faith and
fer.our: hUl itt''''' Ule divine ;. not
rmm Ull' bUmlUl, nor Olt' .pirit from the hCMly.
To thc$e Indian utim., O,t' Buddhll and hb
diJeiph:i wcre IndiaM, lIIell or their (lWII nu::e:
U,t!)' did not need 10 make u (",Ill
lorciwl hi ruuililll' tenm. A!I did the mcdie\'1I1
painter. in depicting tilt: Cotpd. IitOry,
iD onlc:r- to make tbe scenes inwU4!ible. They
painted .. \OWId III wbid! tbeif mind! ""'"' .t
home, It Y()lI I'C)(M to I.hmk 01 it. ntIlriy . 11 the
arL with which we Q.1'e (.milillr i, noL
in lbi& cue: it W!:t.l. wilb e\'tJltI, cir-
"

MII Pir,rtmaga 10 Aj4l,dtl OM Bupla
h\ odlhl'T kno_ DQr
unticI"Jlood sne through hoob. nle p&intiftvt.
of Aj.llt. rrrqll<!ndy for the life
of tbe Ihw\.dba in p .... il)CAmalitlllJ,,-in
the ClC dellbanl. dt.et Oft
""e ICe pktural the IlctuaI tcl'nt:I that
before the pt'inte"" l'ye'!l; tI,,:, t'Ouru of prince..
tht thmnltll of Iht" n" ... il"llIll& lhe
tJu: tiAn(,ing girk haek,l[fOlInd
ot lalfy IIIlWrc it lhtTe; Ule IIlIinlAL! IInd hirdJ
have been aecn and aludird .... ilh murh interest
as the humAn rum1$. In tht" t-lntiul:'f ot 8AIlh
-CJI in whatliuk ne lhr:m-thc ...
,till IUtIrc ,. worldly" and py. Th"re IS
a of mlllkiam in one of Oil! llagh.
c.\fS, .... I,;('h ;., quil.t astounding in tU {HSh_
of eue .od power : it is {to Judge froru the
d ... here. acini 111111" '37)likc
,'cry mudcm painting, yet with 8DUlctlLini tI,al
ollr mot.Icm IlItinling llWlb.
Thae In,IJan pidUI"CI were allot reJllliow
in.tpimlIon. I'robe.bly to the .rtisl1 1I,e rellll'inus
inlporl IIUIcd everything; tlltir ell'
dc:.YO\Ir "l1li COlICftlt ... ted u(IOll lhnl. DelllilT',
ootour. curnptl'iilio)n, all the purdy artitl ic
menu 0( thcir ",vrk. Idt to the murc
intuitive activitiH 01' t,h" ,"jlld. "'mm thit., I
think. IXImtII thc haWine.! "f thc:lr art; it is
I.
IIQI. ri-(OIIS!"iI)US; it ,liftkuJt problrnw
nol by IIC'irTlhlkally wmkiog (lul 11 theory but
"unljl!r- umblllnndo. Our 1Il000t modrm nrt.
tortUmI !t",,1f in ill; lIusten! qu<'St of 11 purely
tlStilrlie aim. But it i, a perplexing JIIlmdox or
hum.n nalure 11lllt to ehOO!lC a (Utain llim and
oon5cioualy J>UY!llIt it tardy mtk in 1",,"(1't
of lnnl aim: if .inl i,
f'CfL(!iloM ,t II.t U)C COIit of impovcrbbmclIl.
U onc Wen! asked to put into onc "'un! the
Il'et of lhfSC pai.nlings.-I.he tttfCt or Ulcir
I'OIltimu!1JI power t.) Impre. .nd ch&n1l La--
miJ;ht wcll answcr tifr; (or they a!fed UoI in
the Mme wily th"t the! liylng movemenLi or
men and .... omcn. children. And IInirwUs ",rrl!l.'t
UJ; with a dtcp eontent II.ml Iym
path)'. A.nd it is not merely a iOTl or extrad.
I'tvrn tile thIIt they yield- II mood of plrMur!',
mood et Mclnnlf or bit tuness. 11 mood o(
devotion or a mood (If (rholity._it is li(e
itaclr, all life, with its joyOla irnllU!sa o( hody
and 8pirit, 1nl' (orwanl .mdt- or adventure,
the ba1ullp or the mind a.nd tun\.! upon it.,lr,
Its Ilbftndonmtnt to IIUITOW, iu r'IlIlUntiations.
ib ,-idones.. The fruit of Duddbitt. doctrine,
it Iftr .... b not ncption but IlD experience o!
... hat Aneaaki, in hll intupret4lUon
of Ilrl, calb .. nle Communion ."
"
My l'iI,rim.ogn 10 Aftvtw und BlIIlt
Uft," 'Whk:h is the est.'apinll rl'(ml th, prison
and (!II1n ()f'
The eave-u:rupl", or III the "",Iu ... iIl
mtli/,c! from llk. Mukul Dry', ,'h-id at'('OVf\1 nf
hit pilgrimage thither, ue not em,. or aC1lS,
and llresent all .orb (11 and
cangen--I'rom and the (11 wiki
be", It1I " IIOrt or trial ami initiatkin. I am
glad Ulat. mllllorndra cannot charm ",,,ay
these oh'lIlcl6: they loo must wbmit to thiJ
teIJl of the reality uf' their desire to theR'
rAmou. Wotka. l'atlfll" it wel'l! well thllt other
:''1'eat. worb Ql art were gtuu'iletl in line luch
manner from UIe impertinent pIltl"OMgt: or tJle
prolAlle.
Mr. Dcy to Aiant. Int! Hagl! in the
spirit. or 11 pilj,frim. Ue lJ om- nf IhOliO IndilUlS
.... ho seek to revive lhe tin 0' India in the flldilln
And it. iI to AjantA that UIl! mo<km
I ndian uti.!;t rilhtly lunw, or should IW'll,
ror U,et"e is I\('Ilhing tcalIy IIlIliquatc:d in th_
flUCOtf;. they ltiD .... u.te life: lhuw ,d .. 1
the Indian goentu. could achieve on p...oo
in the pASt. And may lIdtieve 1IIIiD-
Indian. in gt"llCl'll1 take far tOQ Iittlll inlcrtSt
in thclr own art, .... aneient or toIll.em
ponny. 'J1Jey 1Iw:xlld rHlbo that thl'O\lgh
paintifll4 and 8CUlptlJre, in 'Wbich mankind in
"

M1I p ~
'0 "jmtID mul Bar
dinrlil-"('ly embodies it. deepest. thoughts Md
ideals racoe speab to tbe world in R mOjlUAge
ncoe.:iin(l no tl'llnsUtioo. An over the worlll
is 11 IlCwly ... tirrtd turiosity And inten!d in the
Art ()( In.liII. We look to JIWIi'Ul..- to hooou.
their art anll tJleir IIrtilits: to r h ~ r i s h tht grmt.
moI'lumtnl5 or tht put and to (OIlier the gin.
or Iltt lil'ing ; for Art, it Lt ill to enjoy the rlllness
Rnd glol')' or M:prtUioll, need. the ooopua
lion of the whole IJCOJIle out or whicll it coma.
..
AUTHOR"S PREFACE
Ho", can , lul1lcitnUy e:or('ftS' my gmtitude
to the friencb who helpa:l me "Til.e; this book,
Within $I,ered rockh.'1Ilfl1t'll of \ jA"1.#
nn.I II l\gh abide in darkn.,. And neglect jlOda
IInd Duddhns ano! mono; kin:,"
IInd courtien JIDd imotu.; nmllidllllS
snd tllI.Ilcin;t ,!:iris: Animllb And nowen..
Two t.houMn.t yeArs .go they
in the rock or pUnted on the -tl.
dny u duU: the ... 01' t.IK dying
filII. fot 11 brid' "Wk the ca\'em .
The figures in tbe can'iugI .1Id the heKOCS
into a acmblanec! ot life, lhe mighty 1lUl,-
the of all ,it.aJity-n.mi"d. them 1I1t1ot
ht At hI\'l not rorgottel\ thl'm .
:"cn 110 to me. R'orking 3nd rtlllSlld(ing
memor ies in U,is ooI(] Bnd foggy climnte of
England. in 11 .helle .. by a hot flre-tide. hn"'
put to It tIOlndinle8 to keep body find lout .hve.
the kindntll 01 Iny I'rifmcb tw (UlK.' like 011'
wueh of the sun to the darkDtlIII at
Ajllnla. .nd l.as \ftI'IJled my hc.rt. Ind I't'\-h-ed
tnIIny ICC\e. and incidtnls.
,.
,
MU Pi4;ri"l4Iet 10 ..Ij(lMl (lnd UQj,/t
My gra.tdul thanks are dUll to Mr, KallUnjce
Curumsey, of Bombll.y, wbo 0""'-'1" tbe copies
of' the wlllI'llRintinlP wbich I ntllde in Ule CRVaI
and hM lIIken immense tr'O\tble in IK'nIlinl
tban to England in onIcr that they rni&bt be
reproduaed ror this book,
heA.rlJclt Acknowledgment" are (m'ing
to 11_r1I. JohMt.on &: H.QfJIIlIU11I, of Calcuu. ;
to l>r. F. W. TIIOIllAS. the IIbl'llnA.n of the Jnriitul
omc:e. for hiJ nhablc aui,14nl<e; to Mr. F. J,
Riehtlor, the: Uon. or The
Sockty; to ai' who P''C Ille permission to
make U!e or Ille pbotognt.ph. of c:avm and
fl't!lClOl;'$ IlIUI pn.ttielllady.ome of l Ady Jlerring'
Imm', l'Opinl or works III tJlI! "JlUttll CIl"CI,
1 am alllo ind<!hted to the book of James
FergtI!i6On and Dr. DutgeA on the Cftt't-
Tmr"u-A of Irtdio, rrom which r have taken $OIlIc
valuable information..
To rricndJ woo not ollly ellf'OUraged me in
Vllriollll "'ar- ill my effort bllt paticntly cn-
dca\'ouru! 10 pul my l'I'ikl illto f;OTIIe IJOrt
of dape, my .inCl"re!it lhanb are doe:
l.a.Ul'Olce BiIl)'Oll, MiJi$ Eve I\Iltilo". Mr. &: ....
l.ouis F. l 'erglllllon, ProrCll'lor & I ... yo (OU/fC-
TItoma. Sturva l'iIoot'r. l he lliases Dorothy
Lardter. Ebie ltagp, Ida A. n. Wylie, nal'hcl
Dflm:tt, llr. Eddlc WbaIcy, ,\11'. Il enry Ctlnard
"
JlN Pilgrinl0V' 10 Ajlmld 0"" Hogh
"'law. Mr. Muirbett.d Bone. Mr. loioncl C.
l'eaJ'IOn, Mr. k !Itn. FJiol J)rucc, ,ll r. & AI,..
A. n . Smith, and my creat brother atti..t ..
Srijukla NMdA hd Uasu and SumKll'II N.th Kat.
On man)' occ.uion- during lhiJ IItet"lU)' voylll/t'
the teas hAve been rough. at oUlfr
timet I ""iled mth winds th"t fll.l'Ollrtd my
OOIUIIe. AllT\O$t wltbin $ight. of the to-
wanb which my htlpl:S welt dlreetcd tll ,e'JY'l
tlI" aground Iu 5h."0 ters. On an ellrly
Autumn moming while I dc.PI\ired t .. o
pilou came Ilhonrd .nd tt.eertd my liUle .hip
to ...rcty. and 600fI I perm\'ed Ule taint blat'k
line or the .hore through the mi1:l. To
pilota, bli6 F.JJie M. C. Drucle and l 1r. W. E
.. Puuyrool" J ohmoo, my beart 0\' ufkJ>n "iU.
gratitude, ror "ithout thell'l I eould never !a"e
rucbed the harbour.
Mecklenbll'llh SqUII.n'.
l.ondon, W.c.
"

MY PILGRIMAGES TO
AJANTA AND BAGH
CIIAI"Tft mn:
)IV nUT l' Il.I:III)lA(lY, TO "'.ST ..
IN W(:$t.trll h!dill, ill lIu.' htun or lund)'
llirutJIJI IliU!'!, in tht State of I1pknlblld. near
tile or Ajllllttl. there exisl.ll " shrine of
I1cligion .nil Art., ... hieh rl'On1 tirne tronll':moriai
bat Atll'lLt'tcd I'llgrims and ill kpite or
It. t('luotenl'SIJ. TIli.t .hriue Cl()ruIuls ut the
Aj4tlta eaves and liIe wesl.t:h of ,ut and
.rthit.ectUnl In which they llbollnd.
At young boy. Art l'a!lI'inatcd me, and I
,,'U e .' d' hClU"ing llbout thtse rllftlOlUl caVe! IIntl
their ma,,'cl1ous EHil t. ben I Ucter-
mui<d \.hat Ol\e tiny 1 \\'0\1111 viait UIC'ffi mytdr,
.nd begin., what I hoped would lite .llld,
or t he art1\"()rk of .11 nationalities. by the .lud,.
or tbe Buddl,i>It aJU ut bldi.. On
!eavilli i!cllool I tho\lght many a lime of trying
to jounlcy w A,Janla; but when I
t.hW desi.te to my rriends I md. wltJ, littk en-
<.'OUBgcmcnl. They IRUghfil Ilt the proirtl IInd
"
M 11 Pll,r:rilfWl" 10 .1j00rta Illld BfJ/;h
.arned me or an the perill from robben .. Ill
thieves whltl! 1 .Irntlid encounter by tile w"r
in the jlmgle. lhreaWltd "'jth tlgeN
and suJ,;eo;, with ehoIera and pia/!tle-na)" rlTl\
with NI'\,.tion, IL5 thl'", w(\uld he ,IlI"Cal dill\
cult)' in proruring lood in a dry \and
1I.Il1Ongst. lhe Mahomcdan
villagers,
I was YOllnr and poor. Md I t..d I'll) money
... lIntel'cr wiUI which to CIln')' out my idC&!l fur
lhiJ long joumey or thotlJAnd nrileJ
frum my honK' in Oul I did not
lip lily ambitiOII; J kept it belore: me stCl'ldily
(OI' mM)' yrlU'll. OtJn" IIOmCI1'hI!t IIn arlbl, I
....... able to CIlm R little money, and J Jet about
tdtetclllng potlmltl! fot n I'try few nlpeeI clI('h.
tW by the t:nd of tM yeai' 10111 had ""I'cd about
Lwo hU.lIdml and fin)' nlpccs. I then &et 0\11
rrn- tbe eavu, my hL$'pge IlOl1lIiatinjl o{ an
,ttachl caM: with. few drawing matcrilll, and
toikt. n.r:otIIMrics. and 11 blIInkct under my
anll, nlird-dau travel in lndi.a ill dreap, .\
thitd-<.... ticket from Uowrah .talion. Cal
cutta. 10 Jlllpon ,talion by the Dombn), lIIail
on the neTlgaJ's"amnrr R.a.iJ_)',. diJt.mee of
.bout tbouIMd milct, ood me. Olr.r
pouud (!I).
J.'tom lI"wmt .t.otlrnr the lnrin .ent thl"Ollgb
J/II Fi,tt Pillrinwtt ,10 Ajn/UQ
t)' pically lkngaH villap of .t ...
halloWS. with bu\ana lifts gro..-iug amo"lt
thl! U.iI"lr. hu.ohet, and aae. or b.mboo and
J:ro"es, Tiny aneicnt ponds, 1)O\'en:d
,.[u. thick in "hiclt the dm:u Wt!t'l':
their food .... on 1!\'19'f haod.
SlI!pJ of old britk led down to the water. All
alung the line elUldJvl playing ill the ro.dI
.topped to pze at our train. and womm
btlJy at their household work.. Oa we .peeI
lhrough shadowy gncn vUlages with eoMlllul
and mango gtovts. and U.e bright nJ lUll Wall
Ktting as m entered the Rat rit'dleld p1aillf,
dotted lICe and theTe with Il few darl; tl'(d
.ilIlOUelled aglilUlt the f1nming .Icy.
I at my window. pling 0111 &lid
the 1Cmtl')' thl'l)Ugh which I ,. .. paIIJing.
I wu lnvdling in ULC EuropNn thirddallt
oomplutlJl"-llt. There is a1mct I\.IwaYI Euro-
pean OOOl.put.menl on tbe Indian traios, hut 10
tnlvel in it 11 mon, no mattu what hb taeoe.
need anly I';uropran I oc:eullitd
whole bunk for 111)' !light'. deep in p-eat COlU'
rort.
11lere was onc othet' IlUln in my compart.
ment ; what hil nationality WIll 1 CQU!d not
rue-. buL he to&d me be ... a dealer III Orimlal
and EID'PUan antlquCI, blld hop In Calcutta,
'"
"'11 IQ AjllJl'Q MId Bap
and .... ., going on 11 short ,i5il on buUncs to
l1afl1bay. Wc I0OI1 bame friend. And
"lwwcd nt(' " few objeeu at rirlu he- hnd .... ill.
him in hili Inmk, -.oI:I\C 1'eM..n harwl.
ha!."'. w!tiel! nellly embroldered in gnlO.
f'CIIl and jpTCn. Amollg'lt lrl'aSUI'eIiI I fQ\lnd
an old &elI1 of red itonc dating from
n'e to centuriM A.C. lie WIU rldightct!
to this to llIe for two C'U(lCeI', and it \I\"U
coruIlnntlr with me. until in LondOfl
I I 1I"0uld hElve it Olounted as a ring.
hut, AIu, tbe: jewcllcr tu whom I look it broke
the stone.
Next morninll'. on our .ni",lI at Nus-pur, an
wJ!hl mct my eyes. TIle
pllllform and the approach to the- mtion were
IWlInuinll with orMg.: 6('1I1n, who IlIul IWlkell
heaped lip with On their he.ds, Ihoul
den!, and in Uu:ir Iwltl., Ioutlly ahouthll their
"'"&l'eI. E"cryonc hu)'& ornllgt'S in N-.gpur IU
,. duty. it is 10 famous for them, Ilnd llK:y aN: a
hatpin. Jl'or a rulll!C' (about ls. .k1.) onc Cftn
get. ,. IC'I)I'C at III'F ones. It WIUI I'CII.lly
to ICe this 10n,ly rruit in .ueh pro-
tIWon, and 1 hMuned 10 buy IMiruc ror mytclf.
The lnail Lrain doe. not on. the wny,
but it 5toppcd for haJranhow-. TIlougb
I was travelling in the .:uropc.an COIll IM!rt
..
ment in I-:umpeon I carried with "le an
IndiAn "'11. whith 1 hanlly ever WOft acept in
!.he 6tie, I '"" careful not to make ute or
it in ti,e 11'llin. roor "'htne\' rr 1ft .tQPIIM .l
station till!' otltU and Anglo.ln.lian
rwlUl!'oSll!'I. uf whom there Wtte (our or O,'e,
put on their 'OI.r topecs to gunnt the door
from any lll1hl'f! intruder,
Out nuw fit the: le.,t mom!!n! A dark. middle-
nged 1IIomlhi gentleman with his .... ;re. followed
by It coolie with bundle. ot lu#ftge (NI his head,
hurriedly entel'td our OOITIJ'IIIrlment. T .. 'u or
my ll'llvdling roornllnlliollil tried to p1'eVtflt their
entry: but the newt(ImCr wa, \' el1' strong
and And. by .lint of a eertAill amount
of (ort..." lucaNJuJly $tmmcd the .ltonghuld
and oteupied " _1, adjurirtg hi, ... ife In UIC
not to budge an inth whllt-
e,'er Il4jJIlWtd, 1 knew what he mt:ant. bul "cfll
quiet- IInd 'II'.lcbccJ fot lbe mareh of CI'mU,
1'hat two or the AlIglo-lndilllll Idt the Imin IInd
N'p<>rt.td "ualters to lhe stlllionmaster IUJd the
1ItW'd. Th_ offlCiIol, duly .ppmrtd: tlle
SUant a European. the ,ta1ionlf\.aSter an Indian..
'n,t)' iJlvitai tbe neWl'OmefS to "aeate the
e&rriage. I'l"OIlIWns to Rnd than ... tt in anoUlCI'
part or LIlt: tnUl. nul the b",baDd ......
adanll\.Dl: " I'm not JOin.g to mo'fCi (rom my
31

,I/r "iigrilftnln ,. . Ijm.ln fJ"d 1Jnt.h
8Cltt. You crm do whllt fOIl like. 1 know lhe
rult all right. Rnd I know 11 case like t.IUJ
pl'ned and il went up to UlO High Court
at B.nnbsy. So I 11000. whlll 1 M1 dui",
1 am a pll'l1der I" By thllt time 11 8JD1li1
b'Gwd had gatlu-red, and a poIiI:mlan &lTh-ed on
the ,pot.. I wu enjoying tJ.e (un. anti W&tclml
with to _ who would win. Hut
lime WfI,$ up, the lnIin could not wait any longer,
IInd nothing MUld be dOni! . The gUArd whiltkd
and ""'ed hiA green Hag, the t.n.in started, the
aUtiomnaat<'C' fluidly grumbled to himself, and
Ule lIudienee on the Illnlform gan', WI a fDUlI,ing
chOet'. 111e illtruden were left \-letoriolUly III
poue..;oo., Iookin, imlllf:RlCly pltued wiU1
tJlCmKhu. n,eirs ".... nnt. 11. long jflur--
ney. hnwe\'u, Ilnd hy nightfall thfl')' hlld reac:htd
Uu,ir destinllUon.
It .... Il told ..... intry month, and especially
10 in that pR", of India. III it Mt'tw very bitle'
durinjl t.hc night , , took my rug out or u,t!
I'*f'!'tl and wrapped my.elf in iL The InI;n
uhimlltely &l'rived ., J alpon. tbe neatest nil
_y station tor lht: ca\'cs, at hAlfput. two
011 a pileb durk momina. n le journey (rom
C'.aJa.otbl had bti!n nil\e hWldoed _lid IiJc:ty
two llIi1oet. At I Iw,t !lot IIllIl"h luagaee W\UI
mr. I enquired of CJnt of the .tation porters
AIIJ PirlJ I'u,rilftllle W ..1j1l1l/11
whether J could gel G talli" to ,tart off for
Uw: ,Ajauta C*"e:s at once.
The people or this pIlf't ate lfantlhM, and
they onl y .pmk UlIIt Bm-
gali I eould speak R liUle Hindustani, and
somChow I made my porter undcm.and my
...-i5h; bul he asked me to .. ail for the morning
ligbt, lUIluring 1nl'! that I thould gel a 00ft-
yeylUli)e ill time. Uowewr, I WIlS ImpAtient
and went to the nationmasler 10 explain my
intention. Ue oonftnnt:d what tbe porUT
told mc, adding th .. t it the tourilu a.ud "isjtnn
intendin.g to "idt these CIIves wQUld inform
him or tbe oamlatriM (vilIR"e headman, II)(';IIJJy
ealled "JlIltcl ") beforehand, proptT taops
could be Some of tM riclt touri.u
brin,g their own motor ean w,th lllml and do
the journey to UII'! in an hour or two:
but that beina impottiblco: (or me, J h.d 1.0
.. ait until morning bn;)h..
Myoid porter pointed out to me .. group
of men ehaUing rollnd a fire oullide the 81.11tion,
as they mIlted (or dayblY'ak: I'ue tbe
t&nr men. Onc of them a,n:t:d to take: . 1Ie
'or l\I"enty.wc rupees. whkh Wall more th"n
I bad paid to (lome lip tu J allll'OO from CAleulta,
aod ill the early da1m !Ire &tarted off fO/' the
(:8, 'cs,

"
1.Iu PiltrilrlOlU ID AjQIIIQ 11Ild 11",11
ThiJ being m)' first lour ill
J notitt:tJ m.any dirIut'llt(S In the 9t"alef)'. as
the c:tIIjtcm sky lightened ","1 minute to minut.e,
The "Illtgel' Wf!ft: lIot yet IIluke. bul gradually
a rew pe<)pir- IIPpeared here .nd I.heft on the
n:.d, CTOUinll rl'OfD one aide to the nther. w...rung
themseheJ. or going to work. 'Illtly WOl"t:
ooIourcd turbans. red. I.ik.e yards or
Ulick rapt wouud round their heads.
The house. in the ,'iIIllp were alIo quite
different f'ronl those in Jkuial. nley "'"en!
squat. conJtnu:tions, built 01 stone. brick and
mud, with angular roots docorated "'ith bbu:k:
and red Wes; vrhile the lkn.pl hub have
t.hatehed l'OO(', whid! huneh like Il rri!!htemd
est'. b&ck, and the pla.in mud .... alil look. much
llieu ..mcJn( the. maaes of green \"I'rtatiQn.
Ou my Idl were some Uindu t.cmplcl (derived
from the type of Bodh e.y.) with befUlhU1
round Nninj;l 011 the top. It. ""M 11 cold but
vel")' ",frt'3hing morning, IIIId I wrapped Dlf'C'lf
up ill my rug.
,u we were going slowly through the vil\.n.ge
I MW 11 WCIIWI tarrying milk 011 her tte.d, ..00
pouring It out into pots At U\e doors of aome
or the houIJd; along thfl road. 1 enquiml ut
rn1 UIlWl man wbetliM" t llOulfi get. a glaQ or
milk lo drillL 11e replied, "Oh YCf.. If you
"
wish." lit c:.I1cd UIe milk-aeller. who c:une,
.. ... Oul M .... will you drink !" I
out my rolding glass. at slle ..... mffi vuy
and lImikd. She: ,.,.. beIIutiruJ
yOllng .... 'oman. weuing 1cmg. ddic-ak! t.u.,lllP.
" rich choli 011 which tillY pictet ('>! mirror
sparkled in lhe lutuihine, ami akin <>l In'
IHllnc.-.bla folds. She "'M vcry lovdy Inflt!.
AIIII rttllindcd me of our old <>l J'lltdlut
or Urind.hllll IInd Cop! /fitls, Ancr flni.h
ml my milk. I IeIIrched ror my IlllIllers. in
lendint; to lake a snapthot o,\r ht:1'. but .ha dl..
aPl_rtd ... ying &he had much tn dQ
the people woke up. and .stet that &hc
had to go 'Kith lM. rea;t to "Grit in L11e' fldch.
fly Litis wC' had reached the end or the
and my tangaman atOPIw:d
the ('art and .ligblArl, But be 10011 camr 1)CI.(k.,
i.ot'arins It load br ItI"lllW e.nd c:om for bi. bone
llnel 5OI\1C food for biJll5elf, not IUl\'llIg IrnqM'lI
bc(ore/w.nd that he would hII"a to mllka 8uch
" long journey Utal dAy. He Alid to me:
.. You abo ,.,111 get. wmething: to eeL Ialu Ofl
m tom: "illage on tl,e ""ay."
n.e altD bad Neon .nd " .... /lining radianUy
.. we started up the 10nrly nxtd III the n.le
of thrfll or (OUt miles an hour. 1ni .. ill an
age of ,win lnolors. mmt ratlM:r slow
"
10 IIjanlll onll BtJgh
progress, but those liturdr little hotse!J , .. ill
covet lIS much as forty mill'$ ill Il dltY ut thi!;
leisurely pnee. The lOIIU was quite good,
bl'Olld. IIJld !)ordered on dthcr $idc wilh numerow.
nim, ballyan. lLShltth Ilnd bnbla !red.
TIle tAngn i!; Il funny kind or cart dnt"'n
by small ponillfl, The h,.s to $it
behind the driver in a sort DC 00". which pro--
tects him from fulling out as lhe t.onga joltl
along or tnko!:$ .harp oorner.; OVet the hills IIJld
dowlls. It tWI,whet'ltd. like lhe bulloc:k
cart: the have iron bands, and there
are ne) it nms it makes It terrible
noise: one can neiU1U "peak nor heal', and
soon /I sripping pain Ipreacb over the body,
111 thil wily wc travened the villages- llnd ghatl
(as I'Dl\ds up a .tttp incline aTe called in the
;\1atathi dialect),
D)' about tl::n in t.he morning wc arrived at a
"iUllgcl cal led NerI, which .tandl on a
ri,et or U1C IIImc name. Here the wom",n
were cleaning their bra.s's' and c:opper jlll'$ befort:!
.II.lIing them with water, We e.rossed Ult rh'er
at the litUe Cord, cmd Imi\'oo at the gateway
in Ule ancient ""all which surround, lhe "iIIl1gt.
llouse. are built on this wall,.-o[ old Hindu
an:hitoew,.1 deaign will. beautiful clln' ed doors
and bIllconics; and thtR: an: numb<: .... of llilltlu
..

I
,
,
,
!
J
1


I
,
My FlnI. to 1Ijll/114
temples. While C!r06!Iing the ri"er I hcaN that
there "'Id a bau'r ",here 1 could buy aolllC
food: but when "'t arr1nd in ti,e village I
obSer'nd that almud. all the doors wm .hut.
wild dOfP were roaming about. and the wbole
place WM dfllC'rted. Iwl btw plague
_re, and all tbe inhabitanu fled. 11
WM n good thing J l,.cI bought my or
milk from the girl lit JnfgllQll.
White p&$6ing through this d(SC1U(1
I noticed beautirul Cftnillg.' IlIld dteOrali"e
cltsigllS on Ihet wooden doors. and by step'
luding to lhe. temples and hoo-. M well u
perl'o,.ted and ean"ed wiDdo1l., on tbe bal-
eon.lcs. It Wp ..,d to see thi. C!hannmg village
"'ith all the bOllllC!! locked up. and .. Mog auch
IIn air of unUlual desolation, in tpit.e of lhe
"10001.11 sunr.hine.
LC!flving the villag!'. 11$ soon .. 'KC fnul\d
oursel VC!S in ti,e open (l(Iuntry, to my amau-
me:nl, we came. upon hundredl of tiny but.
clumsily mo.dc of palnlYno leaves, all hutldled
together about a couple of hundred yarda a".y,
l'hae contained the inhabitants, wbo had Hed
willl al. their and
After we Irn Neri, the Cut/wr we went tbe
b.rer the land. "nlcrc ,.,.... twdly a
.tick of vqJCtation visible, and the wbole cround
1fT

My Pilgrim." tD AjlJrt14 Dnd Dogh
...... of rich goldBl-brown lint. The road
is vU)" lonely .nd but OttUionally do
you meel A few people. or 50IIle aqueaking
bullock (:lIrtIJ wilh cotton. hay or ,,1)1)(1:_
cn'leping slowly wllg. In tile distanec rould be
.em . trat:J.:ling ,illap (or the
1I""t I/Ilrl. nf but a few hOll$d clilc:h. These
hOl.tlleS brat " c:uriOll8 mwnblllnc:t' to loUd
hlocb or day. roof being nlll nnd low. like 4
lid.
111j" I'OIU1 to the soulh is onll or tile fUlcient
of the world. and ill my ilJUlginntion
J (-(JUkl Ule tlQUntiess bonIes of Aryans. and
Amlcd !'tIllhomedllll invndCf'll. who JlMKd thiJ
_y to tile conquest of Suu,Ulenl India. MOIIt
rumllg of All to mt, howeo.';r, "'aJ the UiOUght
of the wut of pilgrim., not only
(mm lndt. Lout from far off Chinll, to whom this
roAd had ileal OM! ",erN way to tbe Ajaula
It thrilled mll to reaJiu that I too (omle.!
l'llt\. (If t hl. proct'SSioll, Md to IJelien:
I hAt untndinl[ woult! .till (0110\11' me.
.\11 aJoog lla road wc were continually Iblrting
up hmh of billet.: buck Md da'r, which ned 00
our aprronc-h. , .. hile \fild doves I'O!IC In 1)11;", .
. \1 !.ut wc MW 011 the horizon the long ranp
of the UindllA DiU. or UIe Dckkan. and my
tIInpm.n uid: " The lenq (le!1Il mcan.I CAve)
..
My J"irll PilJrimpSt III , ljafi1f1
are there in hilb," Through thill diltri('l
we Ch rltd and 8 riVCl' called the
BaghOMl. wbich ha. iu 1OUf'Cf! ill the Ajanl.
eaves. The mall village of Fatdapur wa. nc>t
vtt)' lar, it is the f\n;t village of Nium'.
Slate of lI yduabad. At iaJlt, jU!lI lM:Corc tun-
act. we arrived at Jo'anlapur, and beyond this
"i!lugc oould be 5f!en on our right the tltUe
dlik.bungalow, where my tangamau wllntcd to
take nlf", 1Nl 1 insisted that he should lAke me
flnit. to the ca,'eII, lie told me th .. t he collld
not do thd, IU UIC NoW 1I'ould shortly bccoIne
very bad.
Soon we to point where t.he roacl
delccnm to Ule river, dotted witb bouldcn and
impossible for the t.angn to Cl'OII& So 1
wiUI t.he dth'er and p1O(!d.ed (Ill foot to the
On my way J CIIUJ}e aeroa a 'mall .mile
tent oecupicd by tome ofTlCill MuuulmaM. Olle
or them told IIle he was UIr CUI1ItOl' of the el""..".,
nntl said it wu too Inte all hour to JI) to them.
hut I tumed a dear tBr to bill pn>ttIU and 0011-
linllCd on my w.,., All alOOf I made my
way O\'er tbe jungle roAd. no" lronl
bouldw to bouWc-, now Ulludin, my way
rautioualr lbrollgh tangkd undcrJrl'Owlb of
dcnte tqretation. Some 01 thetC bo\lkkII arc
marked wiU. a bright nnnUioo .plaah 01' a
..
My PilgriT1ltIgU to Aj(l1ihl and Bagh
I"OIlI;hly drn""U f1gurr, " 'kith are objects of dc\g.
lion to the neighbouring mndu hill tribta.
AlI1Oflg5t the black bOllldel'll grt'W' some mo ... "h
trees. .hieh .... ere the unly .peeia I eould reMg-
nise. E\'cnilllf '11'''' d,. .. inll' in, flU W8lII ailenl. .\.1'
ftlt tile nuUing Qrth .. night birds and IUlimat.;
",ho .ue up _t iliat hour for their noctUI'IW
"lIndmnlt'J. !iuddeuly 1 hcard distinctly
lOund of ll'Iflt.:hing r()l)tsteps "'hk-h
1.0
be approaching 1l\C. . 'ml'n nfar J JUW .. bund
0( .... 00 IlrDW:d to he: =hing
like 8OIdil'n OIlC behind tht other, "Ilh tiphl
bandages un thdr lelf'l- ,,"l'llling " peculiar whik
drrsa Illld crowned with white: lolllr topec:s.
Amongst them Will my rriend ) It. Kt\nlpo Al'lIi,
11 "'dt.known J np1lnr.sc "horn I hlld
previoll,J)' met in JnlNtn. Ue: W/lA very mueh
.... tonbhed W l>CC me .Ion(". and woO!lered how
I theft I li e introduc"e(l lilt to onc of hitJ
friend!;. ltr. Saw.mura (who is upw profet.!iOr
lit Kyoto Imperial Ullivetliity In JlljJO.n), IIllrl
Wed lfl6 ",heUloer I would join thall l1li It ".,
getting ., late. but I snid, .. No: I "'outd like
to fee! the eaves 11r$t, I have tnuclJed aU
U,iJ .ay lint! must tee the caves before I do
I'lIIythillll and l llllktcl him for 6 few dire<--
tioM: how r ... it 1I1lS. "'hkh wu lhe bell road
to pursue and ao rorlh. lie .. id, .. AU tiabt
..
'.

"

':l
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<
,
I
I
I



I

.11" Fj,." to .lja"t4
I had better come .long with you," for bdng
an artist himself, he understoQd my anxiety.
Aner .n. the can!s not vrry far, and _ing
tJ.e same fiver BagllOl'ft twioe 8gllin, l lr. Ami

took me through 11 .hart cut and AK!, "1'00
WJll soon tee them 110'11'."
It is impouible for to make my reMtr
real.iU' nl)' redillg$ ... lien J first ..... the silt: cl
the Cf!\"IlII. 1 wali spell.bound. n,,,- I18tlll'1l l
Iplendour or the 1OI!I\t, its utter seclusion, tho! ,
IImphlll,e.tre (lr hills tJ.e glen with
It rIlmpart. lhaped like 11 l'reseml moon.
tbe little: munuuring ftr,:am which IIowtd Mt
gtntly t hrough IL Ia.OOSCltpt of such wlld ,gran-
!lamed me dply. All I lookcc.l
dct.:ly I percci\-ed Ihllt Qut of the 11:00(',
whieh wu of a glorious ti,..e or bll1i$h tllIlUn:.
had beaI hewn ridtly can'ed arches .nd ooluJlUll.,
IInd that tbese fonDed lhe entrance to .. Krics
or cave-templet tUrpu:Ung .u that 1 had
imagined. My eompaot.m and I ttmaiom rur
big in Jlilf,nt C'CStaiy. t tdl (t)Qlplctely atilfIal
Just. thif ,1,100 repilid the trouble 01 my
joumq 11 tbouI<.tKUoId
UJ Uae way b.clc: to lhe bungalow, I ttllked
to him of the magniflceote of the thUl8I I had
__ J could heat the ,DOnkey.
chattering .ntI laW them leaping and playing
..
/tiN Pilgrirr'wgu ID Ajllfllo ond 8ng/t
tOA"thcr high up on the .Me of the ltilb. My
(rimd ab'Ttltd with mc, Rnd aaid thAt it _
the gf'Nle5t and moo. wondedul thing he htld
e,'er seen ill hi. lire, amI he thought himselt
hlrky to be Ablc tu remnin then Cl" some time,
topying the frcll.'(a. "hm 1I.ter on he said
to me: .. 'Though ... c hl\"e only one liU1e room
for \\"e will tu pul you up
Ilnd you wlU yOUt nll: .. b witb 11lI. " I WIl:!
lucky to grt tw, .plenIDd invitation, whkh I
at OIIee acpled. So U 800(\ U we nrrhed at
the bunpiow, my (dend introduced me apin
in proper ,J"pancse manner to hill friend, I'rof.
Sawamunl, the leader of the I*rty. and
to all the other artisb who C1Um' from Japan 10

There were five IIr .i.:c uf them sleeping in ooe
room, nnd Ihi' diflleulty of an addit)onal
inmale, I $!lid, "I don't mind 1lt'q)1ng on
lbt floor, 01' In My or l'Omer." So I tucked
m)"liC1( ,.,w"'y in a IiIUc kan-to by the ddl'. of
the ber.tbroonl ( ... hich wu Prof, Sawamum',
photorraphie dark: room). in a cot (ch.u-pIIya)
1rbich they had to borrow I'n>m UII'
Kr\allu" ami Ata.I .. n gllve me: one of hill bin,,
kelt, to whieh I 1Iddt'd m)' own, and my attat'hc
_ IICrVm me IIllII pill..".,. nn!!! my bed wu
malic. Thcn: '11'''"' only two rooms in thl.
tUy F;n! Pilgri"'61' IQ .JjmtID
_11 bunf1/llow, amI the $eCOI\d one wu occu
pled by two other J l pe" arti$lt or Iluit t 11
difl'amt MabIWnJlcn1, who bad aiM) cmnr
at that tinlC". on UlOf own account , to f'(IJ)Y RIffle
of UK: lresc:ots. It IQ me that th('l(l
t-wn l)ll.Tf.ia n-gardcd one another with ('(.Ill'
,idc:,.blt indirrerenoe. Pro!. Sawamun. CI'Iul<l
n HIliI' English. rn,lt none of tht othmi
I'OIdd exttpl Antiun, who knew jWlt lew
wordt. IlowlI\'er, by dumb 11.011' nnd poinlmll'
.... e flICCded in nwdng (lWlJelvClIUldrntuoil.
While I was w..mng. joining tlIO
party It IIUPPU, the awful IImell of their IOtlp
alld foot! owle me quite ill; lbe r.re. iodn.'d.
was rNlly the: least palatable I bad rnr taat.ecL
nntl rm'Iinded me: or Ill)' da)'l in Japcm.
whilt: tnwdlinJ[ itllhat counh')' with Or,
Out after a wholt .y'l journe), in the hQ!
lIun, in If joltin, tanp. without IIny menl, I " ..
IIlIlurally hungry and thirat)', and I
in having m)' riee lrilh leawa!.er. a,.d Wall
w:r! graterul lor what they did rur me. We
soon 11AII'Jled lo bed. and th.ruullj: them all.
I Aid GIXKI."ight. IW. S. ... amul'llll'id: .. Wc:
hope to )'OU all right rnomlDlI',"
NIII Arai:an ukc:<1 olf: to dOiC my 'll'illtl(IW
tilfht, I&f tbe: AntI j:IIUIUIft'I' "",re \I'l,n!
10 wander fOlllltl the hUliplow d"rinl' the niji:ht,
CIIAPTlm TWO
" OF Till: CA"l':1
E..uLy next momlng After a IlIltTicd breakl'ast
we all /let out for tile cavt3, UIC ,un llihininx
,Iorioosly; UIe day, howe,-er. bdDg "tiU eooI.
Talking with m)' Japanese friends as we tTUdgetl
.... oog. I ltarnt that the CIIV6 were betWten
four /Uld live mil6 or the bungalow
.,.hlcll. we wcra at

oecup)'ill&'.
The
FllI'Iiapur village if; the first border ,illage of
the Ki7.11m's dominions; Aianta t. an old village
1)lng or Allral\f:alMd. situ.led on
top of !.he Hlndha hills. wbleh divide the pnr
"inee of Kha.1lde,h from. the Oek.kt.n.
n.e
population eoll!lislll dUefly or J,lulSulrnans anti
Ilind1ll, who dUllng RUlny generat.ioca hllve
Ihed amicably aide bl' lick:. nle vilJage of
Ajanta. bc:ing larger and I!IOI'e importAnt than
F..-dapu.r. hat ghlm itl rwne to the CA'CS. and
is nuw Wnous throughout the .... hole
world for it. wea.llh of ut

It la

to know how the ",ves,

havinJ Iala bidden for aboat a tbouaand years,
I Wft't re-dioveml 0IlIy .. centlIr)" ..... aod re-
vNkd to the world aeaa.u,.
..
,.J l}UCriptif,m D/ ,Iu
In lhe yellr 1819 :I. British off\CC!l", n:tired
fl'Onl the Madl'll5 Army, wu out Illone in the
jungk d050e to tbe Aj_nta "mllge. hunting
round for tigers. UJU;uCCC5ful. he wound bb
.... y on and 611 through tile wild .tony t.r.eb..
na"ing pursued for 5Otnt: time his haphaunlou.
course. Md im.lgining bimself flU" enouah I'rom
.11 humlln beings, he 11"/1.11 IUrptisod to hear but
It little way ort a bOy'8 voiC('!. n /l$tenlnj:
hill lhe c.ptain lOOn came up to 11 young
hombman talking to his of fualI-,."ild burr.
Ion in the middlll of the jungle.
The boy, ltelng a ahib, and oomequently
thinking to tarn a little tip it he Ibould aho_
him tlle ItoCtuai hOlJUl. of the tigers. led him
little way off from where he W/l.ll .landing Ind.
pointing abo"1l tJle trees. said, "Look, uhib."
.'oIJowing e.gf:rly with the ooy" u-
tmdcd ann. he 5IIW through the thk-Jc Jl"ml
foliage (I, little goIdenn<! colour peering between
a few lnau,'c all"\'cd pillars or cohuml$.
The ""pt:ain. Intcnaely excited, fling him
.elf to be about to make an importall t
logical diacovtTY. Itnt illlJllrdilldy to
"iUage for meD to eo)me with torchCII and dnmlJ,
with UeIi .ud speen. to hew down the '.angltd
dtuten that throttled up the mtrallot h) lhc:
caves. TIIU$ a clearing .-u made in the ju
I
JIJI III .ljll!CUJ 411d Bq)e
And " I"LWlJ,,'t: forced into the(: long-rorgolltn
cll)' temple.. whid! had Ouuris.hed"from about
the thinl eenlury 8.C. tu century

were fOUo .... ing It. rougtl And nfln'OW tl'a('Jc.
pauiu2' illllume...ble little \'alleys in .hid! <)fie
milht h,a\'e fwnd ","ny 11 spot moet .uitnble ami
()Onvcniclll rnr pitchillf (I lent amidst mag-
nif\ee.nL st'CIet; most .uitahle, lhllt it, if Ollf'
the vuits of BMkl'f; aDd Jl*.ft.
tJ-. Camberin:; over rough boolders IU'Id
jumping IICI'Oa It:ret.m-, we made our "'.1
tow.rus the ca,',:s at hMl;ily IUI the unct:rlain
route pmnitted. llaving uUlMCXl the con-
.tanUy windinl! IIUlc rh'u Baghora tor .1lO\a1
the fDW'lh Of Mlh time, we arrived lIt the foot
of Ult ancient .tone atairtnse whiou leads tu
the eaves.
1M: Ja,MllCIC artists ah"y. wed the lIncir;nt
I\a<X:nt to Ult rather than UIO modern
sJlOrt cut. leads (mm the eastern 5ide,
... , .. t lteeply to ('a"Co I, Use 'IJlO5t reeently
<'OfIJtruct.cd of.ul the !:al'ea.
Art.er QCotIlding tome buudred of 11_ WOI'll
1100 brolcvl .lairs we tIIme to the tave fI1IU'kc:d
T, the numeral con.picUOIII ill bl.ek
paillt on while R(WU\'. jUlt a r;ou]k:N XlentiO.
c::ati.m mark. 'lullc inaplllUJ1rial(: lQ tltheT UIC qe
..
or nature of tbe About thirty yetii'll Of 10
-SO the officw.ul"\'eyon ht.d numbered U,e
MnCUrrenUy from eut to, wesl. like holUa' or
IihQP in a ,t\"eel.
The art.isUI now all seaUua:1 into difftmlt
cayes: but I followed the Ic:.cUng artist, my
tritnd Araiu.u, who Will a I,ieee
of freeco (or hit <'Ountry, The TemptAtion uf
Buddha, in CSl": I. We CS\'r'II 6. 3, IUlII
10 on till I\"e taille to I, ",'low luddcnly he lC.,k
(1ft bb: topi a.nd ,toro rt\'en:tltly in front or lhe
Intensely dark entr.nee. Inlt('lltl or going
straight to the Buddha at the fu erId, he "...Iked
slowly up the Id'l aisle, guing .. tlhe hlgb
Ill' (IfI the; ",alls; alld. h.a,inll come lit ltul to the
llIlr, he bowed mlmy timet! le) the IatJt-
I .. ggcd Buddha. ami .rterwarm took off bis
puttea, and by undoing bill 8Mh let down his
long "hite robeI, 10 Utat nuw be 1001,,"1 like an
.rUstmonJc:.
All lht. time wc IlAd kCing Me anoUleT
like poal1l in the 1iG'h1. but !JUdtkilly
A...us.n aaid: .. Sow liaht.. .. and begAn to pump
air into .. grul big eylinder 11rhieh w .. eonMrted
with .. llUIII) on &I stand.
Ue lit tbis lamp, am! T joinal in pWllping rnr
Imlr-anhour or 10. in ordtr to gd. .. brl,tll naIl}(:.
So Jradl'lllly UIe ",-real O ... ldh became \ili.lIIe
. '
,

My 10 djlllw ond Bllgh
and ILl! the flame brightened 1 $IIW the rre!iCO
Araitan WII$ eopying.
I WN $lUJ1ne(1 but extremely happy when I
lim la. tJle p.intings. lor J lcll that tbey
had been done with the utmO'l OUT, and I
thought heftaCtu I would be able to COVt'.f
limilnrly Wge of walls by mylC'lr, in
tJle Mme \\'ay. 1 l\ctually fell in love with
lDlIDy; In (!\CL witJ. all of Llle J)fIilltill,p on the
w.!1lI. especially SOlrlf: o[ lhe beautiful paintings
or t he most lovely WQIllcn.
(h'er tJle [reseo of the IamoW! Buddha',
Ttnlptation that Arw.isan WAS copyillg hunlr four
or ave pictu of thin Japanew IMper. whiclllat.er
on foe 1I'ouid join .'or & little while
I _tcllt(\ him, then NIle A .y. to lICe
the other wonden..
Wanderin$r from cave 10 CAve, I found
in An ancknt. ""orid of Duddhilt ptdaC1S. tem
pies And halt.. The walk, I!dllup -.nrl eoiull1llf
were t()verrd with w(mderl'uJ p"inlillS$ and
cJt:COnttiofl.. Tile idN of n.turw.1 caVe&' <lis.
appct.mI from lIly mind altoaeUler; and il
... be)'nnd my to have imagined
tbcir p.ndeur-, ullles. 1 had tbm'! for
myodl.
111ere &fe twt:l\t)'nine CA\'e temples In all,
bewn oul of did pit.:es of living rock, which
..
A Cmcrul of llu Ctmt:.
have now become Ihe home of wild btII6t"
and bnllli. These IIlIm' cUOUJ ICltlpks ftnd
l1l\)I\alilcrits dale prul>ably (rom a little be((ft
the reign or the (Il"eAt. Buddhist Kmpct'Clt" o(
India, A..;oka (272-131 D.e.), to just the
upubion of DuddhiIUD (turn India. ,\)out 600
A.D. to 700 .01.1).
TIlc)' ,-jaitM by pemtionl or pi0U5
t;ravdJcrs .00 pilgrims eager (or
\1'00 ()IInlC not only rrom Persill, C_ Md
AJ:ia iUiIlOl', but rrorn rllN)tJ a.ine.; tnwcllen,
auclo .. fleuen T&u1g, FaHeen and other<.
aune theft to 6tudr the _y. to le.rn the lire
and teaching or Cautll.m.II Iluddbll. .u well
IlS to enrich the temples .... iUI tJoeit prtduus
,;n.
In tlleR' twentynine can. at AjlU'ia. ate Caut
compJ.eted chllil, .. dlllpcls. numbers O. 10. li
and 2G; and on.e. Will bqrun but n<" 'cr
linif;hcd. .. OlaitY4" .neans the buildingt f../
used by monks for united wonhip,
A dome-f;llllpoo IJuddhisL eelled ... tupll."
tdjcs. occupie. the place or the
alte.r in all the ((oUr ehaily&S at. Aj1Ult.a, Ilf1d
it ;, the mort sacr.ed of .u.
Thc t.wenty five ftI'I! hihllt(lJ.
.. Dihar." meant a Buddhist monastery. .Ach
of Uocse consisu or a central hllll with ItnD.lI

I ,
'. ,
lily l 'ilgri"'lIgu tQ Jljo1l1lil "nil BOIl!
u lh opening into it "od " grr:at IAnctuary on
its llide, just Ollpo&itc lhe main door
cnlnlnee, with pillan!d 11;510. !lAVC, b4.randa
Ilnd ctlls. nu. 54nctUIU}' c::ontaiN 1\ colQ&!IA1
Buddlut. Scn'n of the fOC'k-eut at

I AjlUlto. flnilhcd, they are "umbued
3, I 23. 21, 28 and 29.
Aoout the lime of Amb. between tbe third
and bond ntury 11.1;., the Hnt 1...-0:>
"'ere CXC8val!. 10 ftnd O. '''he'l(' were 11'01"-
Ihipplng cliapcls. Bul living qllarten were
for the: priest., OIon\:, Md sluill!flu,
and 10 the 'T. 8. 11, 12 and 1:1 were cut Ollt
gndully afuorwanll. and this is I,he wly the
IllOTlutU)' WAI: ilnt built "11,
The e\ery,.;hcre round Ilbout here
, is wild and bellutirul. .'1'0111 the banmilit.
(ven.ndA)oI' cave 17.yw ('IUl look d01O\ upon the
rher bo:d, which cur,{eII 4"'11)' to tile "'aterfAlbl
lit the c:xIKme etld or the ,;,hl-hand eomH
of the ca"eII, and In thl': monsoon 11.
mil1;hly tonml. H runs rrom the h.,..J of U,e
\"&IIt)" .00..'(' Ill(: I:r\Vt$ and tmninntal abruptly
& w.u-rfall of It\'cn lut lMy be of
!tom 1Q to fIO rcoeL nlC pllln! il locally JUl
8n1-kulltl. or the trvm pool.. thae receh'e the
WIs, the IO'"st I.s amA11 deep lake And
full or flsb,
..
!' .. o.. "'" "'''' ... _ u ~ \, t.n
,-"
._
.... _
-
" .. , ....... ~ ... O I . . . ~ . AMI
.n, _"A"'" .. '" I. "U"" I
P ....... p.,-".",
,-
,

In the c\'ening [ went bAck 10 tlrt bunpJow
with my .TRpRneK friend fot the ni,;bt't rat.
But for daY" I eontinued under the $peIl--ot this
I PllIical anery Ilnd mngieal art.
It. iJ imponible for "yone who has
Ulem with hill own e)'C'S to ralite bo ...
IInd fOlk! the painlinp in tilo! cave. arc; ho"
wOllderful In their .implicit)' anti
fervour; yet .lmCI/IL all ate suttr:ring from
mallY kintb of domage. llpart from the iue\'it
oble dec:.y produced by sorne t.houJand yl:tLlt
of ncgleet. Numerous ki .. dl of aIlimnh< and
bird. make their home in lIlt!1e bAt;t,
owls,. 1I1'111UClW., .. ild btes, and wild p&nntI
and pigoeoos. ,,'hleh I'!Ol1tinually drop lbcir limf
O\'U the walk on the IlIlintinp. Human bbngt.
cirlIiJ;at anti weh all Sndbw: and
htwe cooked thtir meal. Md made
lIlt!r nlft In the caves. till UII= Ilooke )w
bbclcc:lWtl their wallt. Vitlilol'll lul"C 5Cratchcd
and scribbled their IllImtlI, .nd Y"urorlelln
villitol'J have all. away piectll of tht tre!leoet or
tri1 10 do 5(>, An intcn:.tin, CMl,::rl1mt of
about. 11. root "J.uan- .dio1ll'ing pofl.wca or
,'.riooa 1lpr8, p&I'l 01 a Jilt"'" IK'V\C
(rom cave 10, dalul (rom about the fifth
"'.0" .u and hrouchl to EnlaIId
by tllO taLe Captain WilIiams car Uam.,.l.c*I;
"

.'



JIg Pi/frimngtl 10 .J.jallta amI Bap
and. a few ytAni IIJ'O was put up (or auction
at Sothtby's Inlc room. in Ne., Bond Street.
..... here it fetched ll,ooo. It i, now in lilt Muscum
of Fine Art, at llostoll. 11.S . \ . It ill sad tu see
howthdf\'SCOl:S ha\'t' been drunagt,d; the disfillur-
ing Dam of penlmh'e!I are all t.oo \'Wble. "'1"0'"
time to time nritish official artists who were
ettgllgdl in copying the (1"e8COell, \'amished
with the \'try kind of varnish, and IUI
a ruuIl the .,.intiup luwe IfOwn blaeker day
by day a/morl le) tllt: point 01 11 dead blaek alld
ruination; (or .. hen the \'arnW, dried up the
IwteT on the _111 aaclr;ed, And the outer
f1\uu of Ule paintingf off. Further, on
e\'ety ;neh of the wall.pflintings diven kind.
or il\Se'C!U ha\'e m&de lheir Iml)iutwn and bitten
the paint and plaster.
"You' about eight or nine o'clock in the morn
ing until rvening J found tht'$C J apanese artu;u
keenly absurbed in nwlng the Il1()Sl faith-
ful I'l!lnU of lhe fl'OMlO<:8 for their country,
. ,Id l'roL Saw4mUr. busily enpg! ;11 lak-
ing photographs and plAns. Ut IIlso t ook
t housands or of the and
decon.tin: desIgns 00 the ooIurnlla and "ilia,.,
on specially made t.hin whV+. "'IUI dzlmped
and preaed down on ean'tt! design.!; by B
10ft dabber, and blaclt ink dabbed 011 Lilo 'W"
..t Gtnmd Dtt'ip4i." (If lilt Cm..-a
face or the (Mpe!'. I belped him Ill. thb work
.-n.ny limes a.'I a token of m)' apprecintion of
his !\nd hill friends' kind hOllpitality. NoW" I
lour rmm PfOf. Snw.m\lfa. who in l.ondon.
Uat. all tile eopiei or AjllJlUt paintinlfS they made
have beerl in thl': IMt Otrlhquake in
Jap&ll hill own collection of
imp""", ioM- ; tlnd nlso he tok! me thlll U
rontcl'llplatilll! another ,'wit 1.0 the Ajllflt. ell"($"
In a (ew y.mrs' lime, r()r a stay.
n le hllU.J and mooMte:ries and dapclJ WU'C'
m"de for the flurpooe of greot Uuddhist uni-
\' ersi1iel alle! lIlonlllltcrin Ililgrilrl$ IU\d
!IcltoIan might fludy Art. lkligion and Philo-
aop1l)'; /tnt! Uley 5C .... ed DJ! d"'eUing-plllt'el for
monu ami gtlCIIls. who canlt from far distaz,l
land" meh .. North Wellt A5ia and China. 10
fludy and W"l.Inthip The pictures "nd
5CtlJptutell .dominl!" them all QMnected wilh,
and iIIlUit.rsl e Buddha'. lire and IlreviOllS in-
anl.lion from stone!! in
'rhaic Japanete artii ta. who ... ere 8u<ldhisbJ,
"'He .., de,-Qt('ll in ropying: what U1C)' SAW and
11() In their task th.t I !ten'r bl'ald
them munnur word "hik they ... r .... ",t wol"l;,
and I ofa, "cry lOOny I "Q.$ not ahll': to ,hut
"owng myRlf: but I had not. yC'l olltlUnc.'tI
pcrmiuion rront Ute Go)venm",ul to
..
,
My Pilgn'mngr-l III Ajlm/a ond Dagh
copy the helfocs. After IICdng th5e wonder'
rill pnintlngs Anu noting how eIIJ;trly theJApanetle
IIrtistA were milking raithtul copies Cor tilrir
c:ounlry. and 110", their Govcmm{' nl and Art
had equipped them, 1 eo'btt! not helt'
thinking wut a f:ITJll pit)' it was that
8riliih Govanmenl or wealthy 1"lIian5 took
no interest whatever In tdUCIlting lhdr COWlt.ry-
men by eetti"l lhcse pftlntinjlS copied ror lhdr
musromJ, IU't wehoob aDd colleges, ""d otl,er
educational cstabli&IIIIltJlb in India. Un-
rortnnatcl),. lbcse marvellous /,"roup" or CA".,.
being in the Mnhotuedan territory. were over-
looked until ,'cry lti'C!ltly_ Probably in \.he
near rllture wc ,hall have to go to England,
Jllpan, America Ol' tlsc:whel"t to st:e. our own
ancient IlI'l inJtee.d or being .b1e, .. one &hookl
be. to .ludy it at home In India ; lot lIO quickly
it beeoming ruiucd, that ab.all 10ltC it all
IIOClT\eJ' or liter: or dlould a great tartbqullke
hdl'PCOII, we .lIould Jo.e it quicker .till. I malie
up my mind. that J cutainly nlll5t
copy lIOme of th_ glOriOUll things bc:loro Ule),
were 1'111 gone. I IOOIl however, tJUl.t
it 'I'M a big and very dif&ult tuk. to fulfil. and.
u I haddiJ;c:ovcred, 'onc in wbich no one wll.lllikt'ly
to hclp So with t.l1U idra I rruwle up m)'
mind to tarn wfIlcient mODe)' to carry OUl In),
..

,,,.,, " ... a .......
. ".
0,-., ..... -
_ot .... __

A Gt'IWYIl lP..rcriptioll oJ W ('111-'U
scl!ane. and to C'OI'IIe bcu:k to lilt c:.Vel.,.m r(lr
100UI tUy in order to. cory the r ~ s rnytdr.
With thele idCIIll in my he .. d I lIaile ~ S a ~
.. ara." Goodbye, to mr Japanese friemlll and Iell
tM "iant,. ca.Vel and the Yarda"ur villaJ:'e"



CflAl'TER TllR.EE
TtL un 0' "..,UT..,.., UUDDUA
Foa the nc;.;t two yean I lnw(!Ued over the
gttakr part of India. Rudyins ancient. art.
and IDOnUmenb in the Uuddhist ca,-et an.1
templet, at. the aru.ne time IUpportillg nlysclf
b)' making porttait sketches and Jelling my
other drawings. I \-bite<.! BodliGaya. wl.en:
Buddbtl receival enlightenment. e ~ l h the old
hotree.
Gtat1ually the whole history of hq n ~
noble land wonderful life beeeme fI1Iln \-t"idly
pn:.ent. to my ni.lnd: as when in my ('hiM
hood I had _t in the dlllrle of the bokul
tree at the red of my Gurudeoo. Dr. Sir
Rabindranath Tngore. in SIWltiuiketall Sobool ,
..
Tile I.I/t DJ G(III/4aa BwIJI,a
Md first hCllru the tife , t<,)ry of !.he prinee
Sillhnrtha GlllItama. who becw.me the Buddha.
As the rrucoa: are ineidallA: in the life of
RlKklh.. I gi,'e here Kn M'COunt of him, hi:.
nnd ,york,
In the northern Il&rt of lndiD, at the foot or
the Uimalaya mountains, on the bordml of
:\epl. is a l3ud of great beoI\lly. The mighty
pc:AU or the IIi mal.yu t,""en:d OVC'r
U,e ancient <'1IfliW uf Kapilabutt .. _hie'l!
do:n,'"ed its ntlrne from an ttged S/IgIl. K"pil
lhmi, "'ho lived outside the city in the .hlule
oIllJ1 old b.oyan lfte.
SoutnWlll"(.ls below lhe city on the lower
plaila $treteMd gtttn nelds or riot, Mmhd
1roOdt aod IUIlng'O from the midrt 01
which I'()IIe Ihe hfI.nnen amI towen of tbe tem
plet, whose priest. flIkd U,e air (rom morning
to nisht wiUI the mUnllut 01' wOl1lhip and eh'lIIt.-
Ing.
Thf5C plains _ere ricll and fertile, ami imgnltd
by I!'OIItinLUlI of mdud _
, which
(lOUt'fd down the mountain MC'S. The .ir,
tcmperOO by a llfth north brto:, ..... ever eouI
.od pltuanl.
iktwren the mountains .od the rictfiekll
lay the city of KapiLlbe.\i:tu, or which only IOIM
old ruint'd foumt.liom remain, belonging to the
"
M1/ p ~ to AjQnJ.n ,uwl nfllh
chid ~ or the ShAky-. Kinoi!'. Thl:l'(! is.
bo"'c\'cr, litLlc cbi: tlum rOlllulatioru, [or IUlcivll
Indian buildings ttmSisted only or blO<'ks or
.tone and ,..ood I:Ow:ned with clay and pluter.
and . . ~ I ~ ~ g ellO\lgh III tndurt for een
turiel.
In Kapl1abulu, about the sixth ecntury D.C,
lived the King Shudhodhana., &tl'Ong oC putpcJlt
and rnenmcm by ILII men, lib .ire ....
Maya Debl, lxaulirui .. the moon and pllrt
Il$ the heart. of A water.lily. but AIM. thl1' IlfId
no child. TIllf was a IIl'U1t 8Qm)W to the Kinll
IUId ~ . who dCliiml .OO .. e all thhijp a little
....
Onc nilhl, I}(),,'evct. the Queen, aricvinl;: o"cr
bet thildlttllleS$. rcll as;leell, "nd dl'ramt 11. drtllm
oC mtusked .... hit,o tkphanl whieh tnle",,1
her womb. She told this dftaaI to thr King,
58


The Life pf GQIIIQmo BwJdJ,,,
her 11I15bnnd. who MtIJed around him bi<J wise
Illen. To I,is InttMe joy pmli<"kd tluot
Quem MIlY. ..-ollid bloat 8 II6ll. whQ
would dU,..,. Il'Otlw III mb:hly IT1ClIJltl:'h, IIf n
great anr! ptd"lrlly Tradla in the
W<lr/Il. lI owever, the KlngwbUcd lhRt iliillong.
dt'lin:d kln be A monarch. U'I: hei r to his
throne, t he Inl'crilor or hill kingdom. Md th.t he
ahoul d "dd glory and IUltre ti'> the of hit
r,,!JIff.
Queen MIl)'n wru filled "iLh joy. The dnirt
of h('r life WAll (ulfllkd. She would M"C' III
child, and "'t gn'1Itly longrd that he ahoold be
born III her old hOlm', whidl \\&5 not f.r ..... y
rrom her palace. Nothing wu loo good for the
motftcor (If t.his lonj,:ed. for li tUe .on. So UIC
King'. coraent Wlll obll.lntd. anrl Quri:1I
Maytl set oul tor the home of het pan:nu.
She: Lnwdled in ,tate as bdl ttcd flUt
Queen. lIundrls of ffl"l'ftnta, e!ItOI'U of Il0l
Wt .... Illtera (ot "er Coul1. I.din, aud in the
milkt Qu-n !Unya hfrsdr in


State palanquin, sparkllna: mth jClI"d, and
mounted on back or btllutilu\ wbile
dl'pilllnL
It ,..., high aumuIU in UJe ltuul. The bluing
auruhine poured down ou Ule royal proc:ellllion.
and e'"en the Queen in all the hlll:ury of hff
..
My Pilgrim" '0 Ajon'" QM Bt1JIe
golden palanquin telt di5tomton. 1/1 the dis-
tance I"O!/Ie the eooI grove ot the famous I.um
bini G&nICIIS, and htte the Queen would milt.
She from. Ilczo W('At to Iltroil thr'Qugh
it.. J! .. d(l .... y glades. Mllny kind, of woaderful
trees were tllen', with exquisite nOWCf'S. and
rieh perfume. but Ihe most beautiful of all wall
the a90Jb, mUI if4 widC'-!lprt/lding boughs. anti
its l hick green ,",,et and budo('<Overed bnnellCl
whkh bent down ond touched the ground.
Att.raded to this gentle shade, Quem lIB}'a
and hu maideJa rulvanccd, .nd tbe brillillut
awubine taded into gloom. Her hour h"d
come. She .tretehcd <)\It ha i..nd to one (lr
the Ift.rktbI(J5!;omed foe support. and
!tom her right .ide above her .... aist tatne forth
her infant IOn.
The wonderlW hCWS spread, and to the a&(11e
QC the dlild hulenai ehid, to PIIY tlldr homagc,
s.cat.tering bd'on: him be.utiful nowen and
p ..... 1>.
Among those who came 10 Re the lOyal
bnbe lYa3 11 Bn\hnan, namM Asita, famed for
wisdom and schulanllip. and tor the interpre-
tation of hUI on bdlolding the cMld he
wept. and _id: " 1 am old uti "\all not Ihoe
to tbe glory of the Almighty OQe. For
tby IOn will rule lbe worid and will ddivcr all


r
of G'alllDmn Brutdlw
wbo Am Cl\Upht ill the net lit ignoranllr: nod
folly!' Thc kin!:, piauM:d. ADd namro his
IIUle 11(>11 Sidharthn. which mu-II' lIe who
has rulfllloo hi$ desifto."
The king p.,e ordml that nonc but the young
and rai, should come ntal' the chUd. The
little llrinee wu brought up with the gtNte.t
Cftte and Ih'ed in the beauLirul palace surrounded
IUI'ciy prdt:Wi and enclOlrd In a gnst. pMk.
lie had tor lejl(!l\aa the men in hi. r.Uler',
kingdom, Hi. leut desire wu gnantfll. if not.
anticipated, aud ht "'tu! .WTO\lndoo by play.
InIlta Jcloete<l rrom all the noblest. rM'lilic. or
the Stflte, DlIt he was M,'er boblcJom in
dupo$ition and did not eau: much for naity
games. fie liked better to wander .bout the
bc!lIut1ful gardtns by himself. t;veryooe in the
pnIat'C noticed ho .... CIllm. quiet and thou;bt.
rul WIIlI his disposition, in .pite of all piety
of his IU.tTotmdings.
There were kmllles inside the palace. where
the priests ehanttd, and lhe king,. queen and
their subjects tame to ... Sacrillees took
place thcrc, whieh all the boy. tnjO)'cd .eeing:
they 5houted tbcir ddight "hron the victim
died; but not. the litUe prince. On cere-
moni" rand olbcr OI:C:UionI tJlae was reasting
and driuJdng arkr the. tem,h ritWlI WIUI ended,
0'



bUl from UliJ alto the young Ilrinoe
preferring bis own thoughu
aItemoop. whUe he sat quietly under
I!. bower in the gutdw. .. dut:k feU from above
al the Prince', feet. Alter taking it up. he
found Weeding tote with an .rroW' .tkkinq
in the bint', Prc.tlSt. Shocked ... itb grid at
to Dluch $Ulfering, he txUucled the atrOw
and bound up the lOre. nl5 C'Ou.in. l)ebQdalta.
ran up to him and for the bin!, ... he had
,hot it, but Sidhartha would not live it up to
him, saying thllt it belonged not to him who
had tried to tab ib life, but to him who bad
... ' td it.
When the Prince pw up hi!< fl\ther built
for him three pnlal!C:S, he dwdt .t dilfcrtnt
stOISOOII or the )'ear. I-:lIl'b W&II or the utmost
1\lXUf)'. II.Dd hundrecb of lw!a\ltiful dlUlcing girb
\I' tto: appointed for his tnl.erlalnmwt. Thm
Ilt \.he I\ge of twenty the killG' wished his lIOn
to many. In Ihis _y he hoped to a}t.adl
him tu .. worldly life.
A CtIIliL was ammged. to werr
in. ited 1111 lhe young noble. who had listeN,
'IQ that eouW ICe and dlf;Me (or him-
1Idl'_ And amonpl the then:. _as the
l'nm:e'. cousin. Y.shodhara..
On lhe- last Q.1' or tbe reyeb Cautam diI-
.,

....... , ..... " .... m_"' .... .......

...
'" '11''''''




rh" Lilt 01 Gnu/tlftw Buddha
tributerl jeww IU tnenlCnt.oes aunongst hit de-
[lII,rtillK gun!",. Ya..hI'ldWlnl Q!tW' iasl,llOd thfie
wu nothinv: Jell for her, but Gal/lama took
from hi' UoN:k !.he garland olllowet:!l allll plaeed
it fOImd her, chooUll. ha for hi.! !>rlde.
nul YllahodlUU'a'. rather tJi,] not wish. dlugh.
in or tu!! to msrry onc ",1\0 ,.. .. not a wnnior
and Iltl\ring this prodllirtled .. COIItat.
Tu tOllnlllment nil the bn.V$
all the most mArksmtrt and .1\ the fine&l
WTaltlcrl in the kingdom. With th_ tllC
.. would compete and .. :dlibit lib prowea.
llie: ..... h.t.!,'tII learN for him. "!low," Pid Uu'),
.. 1\'iU )'OU be .We to bit the quickly
boIo.r. Y()I,I who have .h",)'I mused to aim lit
Any U,ing HUllg ?" C"ullllna only hlughed.
-.,wi on t.he dAy he outstripped averyon(' and
carrkd QIf all th .. prius. nllB be won the
bco.utirull'rillt"dS Yuhodhara. And the wcddilll
W/W !Iebrated "' jlh the utn)(l magnifieenee.
All W1UI nO. p,,",,puing, and the King (elt
that IIh WAS ufdy Bt.'t.tled in .. wOrldly 11fc.
His wetter IUIII laid out for him .. bct.utirlll

,..hiclt .'" dbJ4Ucf on Ihe- othu "de of

Uu: city. Thilo: .:amen IOU that it w ..
eallrd the c..nJtn {)( !fllppin".. Great tI"I:t'f
threw ahallo IlU roolld. &!ld ... m or
Oowefll, talrlct, purple .. nd whiu, CoWlt.aint in
"


..
.ul/ Piprwa /.0 Ajrmw and BOJ"
marble basin" ami in the midllt a wondtrful
INwilion (or relit durillj,i' the heaL of the Ib.y. The
king felt lure tlUlt ir hi'.t01l onc:e. $A'" Ihis garden
he wOILlu be content nl\u wish lot' nothhlg rur
Utero so he ordaint'll Uu..t the l'rinee dlould
villl It.
A prur'ilUIUltion WIIS iMued. commanding tlat
the streef.lli of the city through whiclt the royAl
proce55iOIl would pen ,llould ~ IOrgeoIuly
deeonIted. Flat!' and bRnncn were hung from
the windows. and none but the youna alld lair
were to be Reil [n Ihe ''-reels., and through l hi!!
py _ ~ lhe ('rinot wu to poa in his royal
chlU'iot to l' wit the IMn' cllQUs guden.
The ma,rniflotnt envlllcllde set (orth and all
wmt wdl until, at the l'Omer of ,t.recl the
I''';ner: g .... creeping alowly along tJle pathetic:
8aure of an old and uecr\'p;t man. ","ha humbly
lJtgged (or alnu rrom tJle j j y ) \ ~ crowd
.. What kind of man Is lhis ,to asked the PrinlT,
_iog lor lhe linit lime in his lile povertY-lilricken
'11'-
.. Site," lIn!IWcred his ciuuioker, .. it is an ap
mlln bowed down by years."
.. Arflall men. Ibm, 01' this man only," laid the
I>rirule, ... aubject. to JIII8 1" AJXi tJlef'C Wat only
DOe reply: .. All men. 0 Prineel"
All piew;urc in th'" wondrous gankJ\ 11'''
..
TM l.ile of Gallfnllkl BllddJM
quenched by Uu. tl!'ply. Of whal I".il flI(>h
I.nt.nsient pleMul'eII ie Ule trld Cor ,11 wu wh.t Iit'
hAd jU!ll Sadly tbe Prince tUfmO' l
hOD\el\'anls, rdlt'ctJng on lhe d_y Qt
life.
N'e.xt dny,lht: Prinre drove forth IIl"in, and by
the lay 11 fiick IfWl in ltrrible agony.
Ne..'CI' brJotl!' had CIUlama acen
or lIl'y
.ott. Ami he WW! ,trickeD with horror tu hear in
IlIf;wer to lIiJ enquiry. that IlIl mm were 5'IIbjcd.
to he tei,,td at any lime with di __ Aod I'MIA-
dioes Stil'h IU had o\'t!rtIIkco the unha.pP) IUtJen-r
before him, nu'", lht' CR"all-ade mU,rlled
l'i'itbout h..-ing- JJt the GlUdell of Dcliihtl.
A third day .. f\.xl CO!" lht vilil, bYl
it "'IIS lhwlll1cd, ,It. fun(TJIi procalioo dl'8n'IIIkd
till! hefIaF anti doeol'llted $tred. with a
body iD ita midst. F\(lwUi and .IlllriBrnb wen"
.trewn over the 00fPIiI'. and followers. who
were bowtd with gTid .--ried out from time- to
time . .. Call on the LQnI." u Uler pl'Ol't'C'dtd_
Once moft' the- Printe- 5OUfI:ht an expIa.natioo 01
biJ chariolN'.l'. ADd lcan,fd that thiJ wu Deatb.
the la$t and greata:t C'nemy QC man. who 1'Of_
to high low alike. aud from whom tJll't'C "
no e.<:ape. He who bC'gIlIf; 11ft' murt aiJo end it,
Ln Iilc:nl and sorro ... rw meditation the YOIllII/'
Priftl'e. drove home, .nd lhe lrruul'ell 01 tu.

..
ptJaee .. ere 118 nothing to him, for no'" he knew
UICY wve ()Jlly hit for 11 time, ami that the fate
of lIu.e unhllPPY men whom he had IMltn would
surely Ilnd ine\' itably Ix hi!.
On tbe fourth day iignt met lIle
Prh_', eyea. Alo"," the ro-d canle man clad
in mean gannmts and ttUT,)oU\g a btgpr'. bo.l.
hut terene, dignilled lI,ud sdl-eontrolled. How
eould one Apparently ao poor h.o\'e attained to
Nth r-ee and content' Who.... he, The
ehariolter. Channa. was appmlcd to, and an
swered: "!'aIy lord. he 11 a religiOUl man. lie
hu abandoned alllonginp. controlled all pasllon,
.uffers no envy, and his daily food."
A light cawncd OD Gaut.ma. Not in riches,
Iwrury and WI!II.IlJI lay the ICCrct. of Lile.
but in renunciation, PONerty. telroonlrol and
meditation.
The rumour or his IOn'. ad,'.:uWttlI reached the
nrs of the king. In spile of hill .trict orders,
the Prinl'e had become l1OI}uaint.ed wilb Age,
t.nd Oeatb. Useless to isaue orden for
the punU.hment of tilOlC wbo bad UUg 1hO>m
UIOllRlvC'S; they \fere no"'here to be round.
'IJIC blow he dmr.dcd ",.. railing. and hk IOn tend
ing rD()l'e and mort' to the life of the Teacller-
"ld beJgar J
lie summoned hit "rime MlniJtu and re-
"
Tk Uft of C/Jlllamll Bwddl!Q
doubled hi. preeautlolllll. Triple wallt _ne built
I"(J\lnd prd_. l lOftl gulltds were
The kingdom ",-as mnueked rQf" Il'"IOnl and more
betll,ltiCul dancing girls. who were tornmanded
never to eease from dlorts to divert tilt Prince-'I
m.ind trilh mm 1-;Vtn hb- dC\'otcd
wife, YlI$hodluua, \I .... troubkd Alld wrreml
111811Y things in hl.'l'

Bul thfl terrible 6iSbls which he had aeen
h.d IIlInk far too deeply into the heArt of the
J'rinee to be eradieatM by material jlleasura.
Old Age. Disease. anel IMU)' Death .... v ... ld in
e>' illlbly oome, and Ihe more he rdltttai on ,h_
thinp lhe IllOre tnviul and unworthy .ppeared
to him tile Ufe of hecdJes5 pleasure whieh wu
apparenUy Iliac lot.. Tlerould hardly eat or deep.
but 'fll1ldemi rl)und hit gorgc'OOI palac."t day uti
night, sean;:hing fOl' a .oIution of u.e; t.erribl
problem which eOllJrouled bint. AiJ who 8rt
born murt dk. aod all ..lie mu.'It. be reborn.
Th_ WIU neither bciinning not' end to the
Wbed of Life.
Tt \"U midnight, .nd (or Cautanuo "'AI
no rest. All the eveni", bad been gh'w O\'er
to mUlie And playing. while beauti
ful maideruI bad tLuJd their mOll! alluring
da_ in tbe hope of row:ing ill their royal
muttT IOnle siin or intaut. ilori-
3tH Pilpi,".' to tmd Bill"
moon flooded \.he gardt:,., .... ilh light, and wcaried
witb the ", .. the Prin<:e and went illm
the gardm, IICdting in tlle 01 tht night
Il1I 8JI5Wr.l" ror hi. riddk. lie !lA!. down bene&til
a ItI"l lambu and to him there seeznecl to
oome a light IlfId the knowledge ot the Way o(
I'tAcoe,
For a time Sidtartha reflcetcd on tile. wonda{ul
revtl!ttlon. then lul IlJ'()5e and I.lowly re-elltered
hit: pu.1ace. lie lravened the marlJle eoll.u
bathed in .ilvu moonlight .nd Bilent !IOW lIa\"e
ror thf: tinkhna: of tile founlains. Rnd into llle
gTeIlt hall, whete the dMcing girls lying,
wrlpptd in deepe.t slumber. muslc-.J in
atn..m<ntll beside them. There they by, just ..
lht) hid lunk dOIm to ettrtltu of U)tir
al'fll"lnlnoe. in Ular rloUunIl'. And
lookitljl' to his Ad mind very likf' lirekw bodk!l .
.-or hun not only had they oeased la lie .Urac-
tive. but they were even nod he
man'dled how 11 mill! coulll IUl:(:umb to 1)4R;ion
If he were not tcduoed by tlrtij. jewels And
arliflei!ll .Uu",lI'Jenu..
Silco:ntly he left t.be hall. lie mll'" the
palace: but Mw r Guards ,,-ere e,uy,,here.
and the Prince, though nominally free. lYIU!
rirtUlUy hnpnaooed by his eaUla'. 11. IOI.Iihl
hill flllthru1 chariotecJ". Ch..ruu&. Ch.una I
..
Tltt Lifr pf GtlUlllm4 Buddha
Ilrise Ilml NIIMlc my hone quickly and quietly.
We go hence I" And ,,'hile Chann ... went
for Ihft horse SidharUa. note .. ray to Qlle
mOn! IQOk at his wife and little 1fQn.
In the mitht. or UIt' gay all!ltmlily the 1>rlnCC'J8
YlSbodham lay ..... eetly on her bed
t.re .... ,. Uliek with the Jasmiue
lInwot. her IleWly born .son in I..:r armt. The
Prince. yr;amed 1.0 take UlC tiny child in hill
arrna for a IQt kiss. but 1.0 awaken Ull'
mother, 110 with tears in hIS eye. he look JI lan
fond look. bent down Ilnd ki8at hiJ: ,,iCe', foot.
nu::n he ailentJ) drew the silken curtain, and
left the ehllmber.
In tbe Pl"iate eouttyanl JlAI)(( the ".,.,t borw
rendy saddled, with Charuoa. the faithful
t'.t. Iwaitina the arrl"al of tM Muler.
Silently he mounted, .tok througlo the !,'!'tAt
pies of tbe palate, put tile sleeping jf\I&f".l5,
'laiw:d Ule hillh road, .nd tben urgccl on the
hor.it:.t tOllmCMt 'lleed .
.., tJle dAl'O) broke they rr;adlM I/id lotdt'd
t.he riHr Anoma. When he &ITi"f:(! at Ihl'
IllrillM' bank Ule l'rinte disnW)Unte!l aod told
fai.lhful (oIlowt'f that tbe tinte IlalI no .. tome
ror Ulem to put. Ont' by one he diye.t.ed
hilllllt'lr or 1111

jC\fel. and prlnf'Cly

l'tIbc$, I1I\lU nothing but Ule' nne white'
"
My " i1gri"'D8t1 (0 Ajnnla DM Btllll
mudln TIleD Crom "'ooW:
$ppearet\ n hunlu bearing in hiJ hands the
robd oC a bcrmiL The Prince look
these. clad bitnsclr in them, and handing his
line muslins to CMnna diuppearcd into the forest.
Sadly Channa turned homewArds, weepi", and
wailing. and leading KanLRh to the city of
KllpiLlba.ollu with a great. 10CId or 1On'O". and
Sidhattha tarried in the fon:st alout.
"'or te\ t.!1 long ytflrs ht! dwelt then: in the
rorest tearcliing ror lhe _y of escape &om
tllOM: trfribic: lie in many
pbu::u whert: hf hoped to obtain peace Bml ]";00"-
If:dl,'e from bigher powel"l. Ko penance '!I'M
too hard ror him lO perform. no fast. loo teVete
for bim to tndurt:. He reduced his rood to tht
slJu\.lJesl quantity sumcient to support. life. !lUb-
hilIlllt!lr to tht most rlgof'0U8 selC-discilJline
IUld at.Wt. beeame to weak that. he lainted and
lily on the ground. .. if deAd. Out It III Ult
longed-for "-:nlightffuuent tarried.
Atlraeted by the story or bis mortil1eatioll5
and the rigour of hill life. five 1I1lntltring hermits
attached lhemsd\'C!II to the lIoty :Man and
beeame h. flnt dilciple.. The fame or tu.
lIn1ine.. had no", Ipl1!tld throughollt tIll'! sur-
rgunwng country. and pilgrinu; ftoeked to rcech'c
hia bI_iIJa'.
7.
Seatc.J under Ii.ll old 1Jo..ttee by tho NlmnjlU\.l
river, now the Flligu. he st.iII meditated on lhe
great Scen:t, .. lid made tlle firm resolution that
untU he had attained it woukl not move {rOrll
the place.
:\Jld tllllt ni,ht it ClIme. ne reeeived the
!.igh!., and itan;w tQ him that mortiflcatiorM
and r ... tAI and IIlllhe Unible IIUl1terities to "hieh
be had aubjected hl5 body " ere una"ailing; he
knew II(1W th .. t it WAl the Inw-anI thirst rot life.
whir.h wo the CIlU1i\l or all tbe evil in the wOOd.
Could mm but rid lhtmsch'a! or all da;ire., then
they would be happy. and the tlltl:e great woes
would be t'Cllquerro. n,is freedom WAS Nil'-
vana. and the hfe of 5troggle it he e:a1l1!d
the Way or Pe.aee. So he attAined the great
.:nliQ"hlcnmrnt .nd beeamt Buddha.
A flood of l'eac(! filled his olind. Now he
woulll be IIbll: to 5how Dlankind tlJe 1)l!.lII of
Jlighteo\llness, .lId the SOITOWi of I.ire wouiJ be
Ui,onQ". be .... ellt down Ulto tlle
riV"t"r to b.tlie and ref"n'bh himklf ... itl, the eooI
.ater. After bIItldng he found that he had not
.t.rength nlOuglt to mille himself out of the ".In-.
10 weAk had he
Uuough hia 10lIl rub.
F4pyiug the bran .. .h of an o"erbanging t..ree. he
grasped it lint! .... ith ill akl macl u:d lbe ballk.
be MIlk down AI ir ddld. Now, a beA.utiCui
"
l'il,rinlfIIU 10 AJonftl alld Oag"
maiden, wh(lo 1I'U lhe (\aughter or the
IIf a \-;UIIgt' woke up Iona. 16ng before
do,,",. reeti.g unea.vy. Something urgtd to
go wiUI food l(IlArd Duddlul. Jo' f'CIln,her father'.
hero (Iof cows she . ('h06(l the f11\C1jt. blllek
onc, und I'oilh itl nlIlk with fl"CAt
dnotion. 11Icn long bd'ore lhe a:un _ up.
the nlonuru: dl':"" .IiU upon each blMle of 1{l'1IliI.
Ihe th .. rood on ilU to the thin. rnw..
fair figure Iyin/l on the grouud under the old
bo-ttee. Bdng too III'l$k to mUlmut a word,
Duddhaale the ,wCO!t. risle. got. strength and
Ulessed bcI'.
But Mal'll the E,U One viewed tbe
ffil:tlt of the Holy "tan wltll batted. lie d.;tu
mined to ,OVC'rthrow him. so I.5Stmbllng nil his
d.:IIIQl1 hbllJi _lid mouutiltlt his terrible WfU'
Elepha.nt. be ad.-anetd _pm!,1 the ut
Wiwum. whcre /iIIt Uudclhn by the
ham. ut n e.'CD. So terrible l\1I.$ the .rigbt or
1l1e. Evil One that 1111 ne.!. ieavinjt Ilutltlhll al6ne.
Then lhcir leader advanced. .. 0.
meaellgef and bearing 0. telter trom the princes
6f tu. old home, Imp1orlnltohim to eomt' to their
aWstancot, far ealllt1liti('S h.d
them. l)eliadaUa had usurped tbt throne, _t
hil old tatho- into pmoll. and htld U CIIptln"$
ht. dear wife and only 11(1). Dut. Buddha. in
."
"'-'"
r- ..,. ..... _or" ........ ,_ .... ' '''_'
I

TJu Mlr ()f Gawama BIIMltn
.pite or 1111. new.-, wa.r not to be turned
Cmul Iti. .,,:h Jlurpo.e<:'. nl(!fl. C:lUl'le '_lInl
Marrf" bo:o.utiful dlallS;!tkrt, land thcoy UKtl
.U their aM 1.0 tempt nol)' MAli' Ulcoy
dand bcro", him, orft-ring him the kJrd,.hip tor
tJH' "'odd, but u thl')' apptoe.dtc!tl bim they
Wtre lunlffl into hidC'()\IlI hA!!$. Man WIIS now
III the fllilul'l! lIe.1I ltQ; uevl\!C'li to tempt.
LM rronl hi. Ch05('II i'lIth, .nd rallyill{:'
troolM hurled lhtm at ll'lt SAint.. .\
tcniflc UlImdnslonn aecnmpe.nied by " violent
"'nirl,,illd bum upon him, and dCllod1y poiJo::lnctl
Wl'flpo.." buminlC ao.III IUlI1 HOl"Chill, SIIIId IlUcd
tJ.e air ll1'Ound him, by (t:Ilrl\tl
durltnlW; but h all WIUI of 110 IwAil, ror !lie
IkI'V'C' tilunl:lmooIts' Into 10twI hlOOll'lI
""bielt feU IlIlfllll_ly and the ,round.
while perfumtS ruled Uae air. and in the ,.01')'
..
thot. bunt COrUl AI.,. Alia hb evilllCMts Hed ._y
diMromfitrod.
}o'ur ,.en'n weeb longer Buddha mnained in
old s-Ition under Ill<- ho-tlft, medibUin (IQ
1I11' IIloriN or XirvMa, amt then he an\K, IcIl
tlte remst. ami wtnt Cortb u.to tbe "utlt! 0fIl'C
mare. to _Irrtad alu'O)I&(l tllc good tidinil or the
WAY of
lie fiDl c:ame to 1knalU, for it ..... lhcof'CI that

tlle five .llIldCf1!rS livctl who IuuI bee" his Conner
"
My Pilgrinlogu to AjtlnJo oRd
dbciplN, They saw hin' IIppmft('hing U,etll and
delennined they would pay him no revc.rmt'll! but
I1'It'rcly )how him those eoul'le.ies which were
o"'ing to his human birth. But Buddha di"ined
their inlmtion and met them with lUc/l O\' er-
whclminlr lo\'e tlmt they were lLShern .. od, and
riling ]'NIid him an the honour amI
that
WIl3 due 10 their Master.
W11t'II they W'trt .eated he unfolded to them
first !ll)(:trines and in!;l.ruct.ed them, and they
f'tord\"Cd and prad.ikcl pft'<:f:pt.. ... ith
and Ul'Iidulty that .t. u,e end ofa week
tht)'lbetmcl"es Wl'rt filled .. ith the DivinOI' "ire.
amlll(t rorth to Q.rt)' hb to U,e "'arM,
In the I'ark.t lknaml Uuddhll preached
h. flr5t thl' rllDle o( 'fI"hida 5prt'ld
1111 over I ndlll. till it 1'l't!Iently reached the eqr!!
of tl,e old King Suddhodarut, lI'ho. teIIluing that
fhi! wmltkrful preacher was Ule l>rinee hb
ton, !ltnt.
desirill8' tll.&l the UoIy One
,hould visit him, And on receiving his rneaagt:
Duddha amI. word that he was retuming
It Will during tlle cold aeuon 01.&1 the Jloly
One. aceompanied by D. great numbtt of di$-
dples. Jd. (orth for K,pUabulu. The sl,ring
WM in t.rlll. the grass "'as green, biM
lingtng. and tht road on either $ide ... bordered
with lrt-cf; laden wiOI _rlet blO6SOms.
Tltr '.if' cl GIJulll".Q Rud4ltQ
Wben he neated the city UI{' ..-hole populace
e.me out to gn:.et him with nowe'ts in lheoir IuIndlI
to IIeIlttcr in his- path; the great lIoble. wiul
their ladie!l and IIn escort of .o1diel1l aucmbled
to give a royal reception I:() tlu! ton of their kin,;
lJUt slowly through the erowd. .wd
gIItherillg .un. with hi.<J liltJe mmdic.nl'. bowl
talllt' 11. humble belUl"r, clad in tattered ydlo'"
Il'Rnnents, in ",hom, to their amaulnent, they
reeognded the Prince. ThtOUflh the gr.tes or the'
city Ioe rame. pa.ssed up tlI(! erowded and
Rmid5t UUI lltCiamaliora of the multitude. en-
t('ffii the snte of the palace. 'The ",ho
""1l5 I:()ld or thiJ entry reported it to U,e king,
who at once "'rnl out to renlonstnte with hif
IIOIl. lIlying that I:() "Ppall' at .. brtIpr was to
put the royal ramily to shame. .. Not one of
.11 out anealol'll beQCd hU bread." &aid the
king. U But my aneatry i5 tlull ol the Bud-
dh .. " replied hi$ f<KI. .... nd every one of them
hved upon Illna." Upon this the old kinS wu
OOIn-erted, and tUin, his toll',
bowl in
his hand, eondueted him with every holKlU/' into
the' palace.
Then he viJiW thll rooms of hill ",i(e, YUhod-
hllrA. who had not ImC with UIC nst 01 the
ramily to pet him, (or Ihe wi,hed to ",elcome
him alone io hi.<J own part 01 the paIacc and
"
My Pilgri!JlQj!n to "jamn Ilftd IJUIh
"IU1OlIl1\n)' oniookc:rs. A. toOn IUI KW !tim
.he fl'\l at hb fed. _lid did 10 him. TIlcn
he Jltl.W !.hat Ihe too Iwl tritd to follow hu
br:k)vtd hU5b&nd (Ill the Path of Peace. No
IOflW.'f Will ahe wOlring tile ril"h robc-s and jtwcb
or " prinn:ss. but WIUj clAd ill D. plain nmet
and had wonl aame SlId tlothillg
ever sint'O! bh
But the Ruddh .. had not yct Sn hit UU"!t.on.
Solon 11". morro .... his nlother drcued him In lois
mort go'lteotlS robet IInd IplC'l\did jetftL., IUld
knl hiln to I.5k hi' fllti,('J" (ur hill inht.nlance.
telling the boy hi!. ralhrt
gTtAt
minor of wullh whieh .houl.! be his by riKht.
Tbe boy hoibted at Ant. for be hacl known
no fllUlI" 111\'( lIlt' 01<1 kin;r:. but hit: mother.
I&lr.ing him to U,,' windo..... pointw out the
who '11'11$ lhen r-ini through the ,.te..
Th.' hoy went Ilrail::hl to him and .. ked him
rnlllkly for bia inheritance. Till' Buddha
at him (Of a moment and then turning to 0l1l'i of
Ilis di.<l<iples MW to him, .. GiI'e 1" And YMhod
ha.ra klJ.tw thlit hctbusband wQuld recci\'e Ult boy
t.nW/WIt b.b dilciJMa., So R&hula, loo, reec:h'ed
t.ht, yeDow robe.
TIoe U1Q6 hAd come for Buddha to \nI\'e bu
hultl( onCfl and U,iJ Umt. he! would take
witll him bis Md .. l(1li..
"
c.ut-.ma'. ttacltinl/ nr,,"lx-pn to sprtad. arid
thousancl. (If con,trt. wen! nwilc. induding the
kmg. rirh men. Dl'lIhmiM, and .. /lft'Il number
or hOIl.el}l)ld('ll. The MM'kr ,,<.>'" ~ t nut for
R.jagrih,., .od hltllftl tor I. HUll! whilll Rt lhe
tMPgo i"OYe of Anupia. It ... ., heJ'I' tlull
gt'CI.t number of l ~ Shakyl. prineal rollowed him
to joi1l bill disciple-. II.lDOni .horn were bis two
ClOlIIins-An.md ..... OO beeaJue he. v-:IWnI.I.umo
dwlt, and Ikbrut.UI.. 'Who wu IlOt rand or him.
MU l'iJ;rimllJr. to Ajolltn and Oaglt
AnoUter pit convert wu AnAttmpindA. I
vU)' wefllLhy who hearing of hil fame
pVC) I PGt film or money to the .,.d
btgs:cd the ;\lutu to visit hi5 home. Then all
aUlIIg the mad wbich Itn:t.thed bet,""ccn IUjl-
gliha and Srabuthi. the merchant'. home. he
to be built. It e\'ay league I ruting-
plaf:e, and at tile end or the journC)' he boughl,
for at DlUeh gold at 'l't'nild conr the grcNnd. I
besutiJ'ul grove. in which be erected I wonderful
house r;)f' UI-t M&stcr and hd disciples. wiUt fint'
lalls, wide tun.CCII IlfId bt8utiful watCf"lankl,
.. iUt uoond it toe' the eighty dilciplea.
When Buddha III\W iL An.n.tMpind. ukc:d him
what he lbouW do with it. to .. hieb Buddh8
repli .'d thAt it $hould be. bestowed on lhe Order.
TImI the IIK'lC!hant took Plen veat! or "'Ile:!'.
anti from it puurcd lIOfue into the M ... ter', bud,
in this lOay conflnning the gil\.
There were round U,iI beautiful lOOIlft$lny
cloisters, "urrouuded by Ioba-pools, Crapnt
ITlIIngo tree. and fan palms. with
bany.,. trus. II"hoIc. roots dropping trom the
bn.nt'hes bury thenudVeI and form new lJtwls.
10 lnaldU.g ",hoJe sh.dy groVel and leafy w./.kti
from 0lK' tn:e.
"'18 abo anotber famoW! grove-the
Bamboc.J Gn:ln', given by Xing DimbiMta, in
78

,
The I.ift (lJ Gill/lam., BuddM
whieh place .HUfMhn the IInl yd.r 01 hit
minililry. The nm rainy IIf'IUOIQI .... ere
in the namboo Grove III TbtTe
it ... ". he UlAt the
W .'I bettC't than that of m.trria15*I.':riIlrH, and he
ehlLmpiOlu .. d the bl'tul>i or the Ocld, whom Ill.,... j()
thoushUe.ly and wllnl.('Jn.ly tortlll'l' AlIII "'.y.
Ue \11'805 ever on the lid!! 01 compa.gion and m<'f't)'.
'l'bI.t the Snn,ghA (the (OIony of his dill:ipJes)
pw so rapidly " 'U TUainly DOt. dUI! to tbe
taIie or the life CnutAma otren:'tl mt!1. Wc
many gfunp5C:6 or Lhtir all5ttrily .. Uq
5lePl on Lht! with 110 I.:o"eri ng but
the yellow robe: .. Cold, !taster, is the _mleT
niltht; the time or rn:ct w eomlng; mu"h .. lhe
ground wilb the buding of the hool'. of cattle 1
thin is the couch or Iu,\'u, and light if: Uu:
)'e1low robe: the winter Irind biD ..... em," aid
n dwdlu in A1&\"1 as he /Ill1\' the Teaehcr lated
in the micbt of the Si ... pa .'Of'eSt. abAorbed in
meo;htation.
Amon,pl bis CGn\' ert:t weft grtat number of
prineesses,
only to , .... 111: ufMlIl smooth
nl&fble and to be pr'Otecled rl'Ol'n Use heat of the
lUll and Use vlQklu:e of lhe wind. woo Kt out
to "'alle 011 foot to tile hc.nnitA/lt' I3lKidhll
"at: raWlIIg. They thm joined the Onlu ... d
Qrricd OIIt ill> rules witl! great delation. Alter
My Pi/triIMDga IfJ AjlllI/tI .00 /lfJ/:h
thill Buddha thowed UllIt tbe lilJ\c had come to
establish a proper otder of IIIIM.
" ht mlnislty of Duddha was not mtirt"ly
unoppo.ed. Not. only w ~ Ule Brahnlln, oflro
his great oppoDcntl. bUl IOme or the powuftd
kinp. who trom eOllntlcsa pa.rt. births 111'11 bcol
tu. ~
Durldha. lIowt:\'U. knowing of
their enmity. "I .... y ~ S1lOke \l'dJ of' them. 1l1\l1
Ol"I:UIonoJly plTIltbed to them. IInlI finally prr-
,,,,iled by mean. of hit wuJ. peticnc:e and (0 ....
bcaranee.
At the tlOSl! or the weL !leMOn lIasttr anti
diRiplrJr; would minglt: once more with tlll! ~
throng o( m ~ n Th .. \lily was , ..... t carefully
plaZ!ned. lli5ing at dawn. Cautama ,..ou1d KO
out either lilotit' or wiUI hill followe ... to YiUAF
Of town eollttlinG alms. lIe would Ulen brmk
IUs rust. and wouW t1iKowse to the IIUlnks, and
ai"e them enrcises in mtdit.tion lUited to their
att.irunenta. They I\'ould then lean him. going
off eaclt to hif (.'Ollrite .pot to nlNitnte. whilst
C.ul.mll would lie do1ll'D on his right tide ,. in
the 1i0ll J*lure" in tl quiet cl1amber. or. l)eUcr
mll. in lhe tool lbade or the: (oret.t and I'CIIt-
not .-IeepillJ, yet not ))""ctiJing 'ylltema.lie medi-
tation. Then Ule people 1Iould t'Olrn! to hilll
ror Jlfell(:hing and Advire. Wben 1\(0 had lakeD
plly OD U.em he Wl)lIld lwolhe and Iptn.1 ptribd
HO
TM' [.i/, "/ Crnd" Dud,]""
in mulit.Uon in the HIOi or thc And
in t.h{! n15t wdc:h of the nl:hl 11(1 would IIllSftf
the of the or to
them,
.. While rn. dbcu.uioM with UIC lumtCl." .) ..
11. disciple ......... morr: en- lCS'J formal .nd oftl'n
coldly logical. in hb CO'!I\'en\ltion with otdll\lll")'
men )'Iaat" gmerelly lo dmilO!l IInr!
INll'Ilhlcs. rallielllmd folk-Ion:. hiJtotl ... lllnec:doLt:!l
Ilnd ."bIodel. pro\'erl and populAr ..
Hu lirnllCli "nd pAl'Ilblrs arc drnwn tOl' the most
put from Ihe jungle--lhe spool" of del'lumh,
the _y" of woCldntm.. the life of from
tile village: herdsman, farmer. netdil'r.
clut.riol.r U p1'O\' i(1e him with whilst
the eul'l'l'2lt tolk-Iore of IUs day .... COlI\trted "'
rr:1i,;ou. pUI']JC*S. The gmal thinjp 01 nlltW't
t..--tbe .. r-tlent artil," the 'mndcrfuJ moon.
the IlIn in hi' .pIcnd,lll.f, tJ.e nUljl':llic rjvc:r&--
these'IIPJllied him ",iUs 11 wealtb uf 11JIlli"'ry.
It I. P.irl of blm lbAt Wht'll ",ked by a fanner
why he did nut \\ork for bis !i\in/t. .nlI .... tn:tl
by the th.nning I'luab1e or the Sower, in wMcis
GllutaDlJl that I. ... too. i. 11 (IInner. and
that he .... !IMI Itho.e crop 11 ambro6ia;
... hil'h or OOUrlt led to tb<: fanDl'l". fO.wnsion.
M SaripnU.Il mnarlr.ed, "ll " by ,imiles that
mtfI (.'o)ll\e nilt'll to understanding."

SI
My PilgrirJttlla '0 Ajonla ru Bog}!
Though a reformed one. Buddha ""N brouiht
lip and lived and died. lhndu. The lJUecess (lr
his .}'.I.ttn 1I'U due to his "'ollderful }W'rtOllf1.lIty.
his .wed. hi. eourngeoIU .nd
const...nl inJi5t.ence upa.EI 11 rtW tundllmeulll.l
principle$, and the way be made b.is teaclUna'
a.:eesible to alL high or low,
Sutrcring is hy Cl'!I\';ng ot a. wronlllOtt :
to gd rid or lhia crn ... inlC we m.ust busy our
aeh"es with naht mD",1 IXInduct..
The tl'athinr of the ftr.;l miaionaric':l
'W'&'I eagaly webomt.-d. and though it round
at't'qIta.noe at Ilm cliiclly arnollS"t the nobility.
it "' ... at hCDrt a democrntie movement inlu
wluch DNlllmirlll, kings. wnrriors. fl'Ull i .... t.on.
and /ncn and vtOfJl<'!n of low casle and 01 no
CA:Ite, ,",re ,,'elcomcd.
WIlier would come to him kings and their
retinues. .mI other lily or llra1mllnS ami
rdigiOlJ$ te.thm who bad hum orhis fame i anti
on moonliaht nights whell Ute nu 15 fngTant
with Utc ot Ilowcrina tnlC!l aDd .oIclUll
with U.e ru.rch of stan, tbey would
mthr&lled by his on the mrnal
'uitict.
,\t othl'r UnItS dilcilrles might be teen
pacing with downcast eyes .mOt\b'5t lhe ,map
of llapdba alld Koala, giving in retum COl'
..
I'M er 00141114 UtuldM
their dally rood the teadtirtg of tbe r.. ....... hidl
we r.zoe ",minded again 400 .gain b .. the grcatcal
of gin ....
To lllil .t.:range aucmbly of pt!
CIlIlt.r.ma. jJ8\'e rully and without I't*n-e hi.
ImilOlapllienl nnd monl teaehings, .nd It Wfo8I
to them he! entrurtm the handing on oI111C! lon'h
.... hl:n he puI;ed ..... y.
So Ananda WN .ppointed. Md for
yen,., ... .,. C:lutam., "railhlul .m..dow," eom
bining the 01 pupil, bOOy-serv-.nt and
dlapWn with IIdmirable devotiocJ.
tU Buddha ...... wandering 1ll00e be came to the
.. hOUSl!: of the .t U.jagrihL The old
mnn. PultkUSl\.ti, had been IOna, And friend
of BiQlb6ara; perh.ps the 1 ..... '0 lcinp .nd the
phyl.ician Ji.,.b had been fcllo"'&ludenb At the
great unh' U'lily, C.utama ukl" night" shel
ter.t lht potter'. hOUM:. ne WIIII told thtt IJ friar
of noble birth lfa.'I aJrealIy _it.Wn. but wu
4llowed to 5l1aJ'C !.he IlO5pltaJlty 01 the hOOR':
and the two old men sat IDtditatiDl' till C"utanla,
noting the _ity or hia' tomp4nilln. u.kt'd rum
wily he llad left the wwld II IId who) wu hill
teacher. PIIUusad rqIIicd that it ..... the
Shakyunllni whom he (0110"00. C"lIt&ma did
DOt make bim ... U Irnown .t (lQn', '-It bqan to
upound !.be Dbunrnl'lt till PllkJn.lM-ti cried out
..
"'11 Nlgrlmcga U1 Ajanto. BM B/lgh
",ilb joy ... t hale found lilt l l lllrtrT whom l
I" Sn 5U!'e wu touch on
human II('lU'b Ind minds. potent thon
hI. method ""d hd word """ thf' ()ne'J
"'CM,dm'ul Whn. be lnlkcd wjth
llltn his Ml't'lle look them ",ilh Awe .. lid
I"!!'CtcMC'., and hi. lo\cly voiec ,tru('k Ulnn "iU,
raptul't' IJll.! IllUflUIllCllt. 1'(1 Iu,""e l"Olllt:' under
hi pcll to he his fot ever. m. hcart .d","},s
O\'crl!owed with kiudnr:.. To meet h.hn wn,., to
be pcnct,.ted hy hi, love and to know him was
to lo,c him tor tvu:'
IJuddh" Iwl llt'len mfrerinll' from a lleftre
iUneu alld had dcdal'ed thllt he ",ould not !i,c
1<II'It'r. Whilrt ill city or
PaWl! ht _-.1 \nl"ilt'd to .. meal by a
IlaJntd ChundIL To do honour to lIuddhll the
afmth killed. pll and f'OMt IlOI"k wu the prill'
dp'-l cU.h ofIt'I'td to the Euttcd Vllitor. Ruddh.
bet:ame v"y raint. and thOUf:h he .w:t out (or
Ku_hlnngll'l\, hlld 10 R'Sl rn!r.ny times 011 lhe
way. .-\t Ill.'It be t't'Qehed lhc city 1.1\11 .. id to
Ananlia: .. Juror," tI,e smith, ChUIlOO, tlUlt hi.
OnUln, _ill brinJ. f\"WlIftl, for it will be
thc in\mr:(liale tall5C at my Ittainil'lR
Rudllha .. id th .... Chnndlil.m,uld red ft'mClnle
or others Illijht him. but be p\e .t.rict.
'lien lba' the mnaiuder of lhc otreruli lOo"" to
..
,
TIlL Lift" (:(lUtmlla 8uddlla
be buried. Then he lay down on a mu<:h in 11
Jtt'OI"lI of w....,oming Ioal-lrtts IIr:ar KusbiMl,,'lI rll..
an lhe hAnk e,r the ri,.. .. r I hlllnynYl\ti (probably
now 111r Cnntiftk), K'fl,lInllll
to In!''nn
the MalO\"1I of his ""h-IlI, TII\II" 11 great
eompnny of noble'!. princel<, prietllll anll or
the rourl a.ssembkd amund the Buudha's death
bed_ STIfle of hi diN!iplts WM more .trieken
with griM U,an ,\ nantiA. to ,..hnnl 1J1I!ldba Id!
iellll"'I't1ons llooul hi' burilllllUd the eontimlllnce
fit tht- Itlll", Wlocn d,nallda "-I'pt biUmy lbe
dying Du,ldha hin!, !laying that he had
doll(! well, lUld UlI\t If he f"'nN.'I'ered he loo ""ouW
win fro:cdOlll, a!:ld he prophe2lied that the I'V')'
lcut of thUlOC pruelll 5honlu at \JIst prel'Jl\l a.nd
Shortly alter Lhi. he paMtd
1101'11)1' Into the infinite pooce or tr\in'lIl1a-whieh
ended the long C'}-..:Ie of hill early h"et!:; alld the
l lllill'a prinl'ft wrapped hd 1>oIIy in fold uJIOn
toltl of Bl1(8t cloth, and (01' six 1I11)'lI it Jay in
Ilute, On IItl'OIlh d ll)' it WII$ bUnlt on 11
llIllJttliflt'Clll pyre in the ooromtl,on halt of lhe
Prince and the I.ldy WItS cnllrtly OOIUIllnotd.
kilving ollly lhe rt'IiCfi like a hut> or III!MIs. or
",hldl lhe ehitr. enshrined in 81<lrious monUUlmlt.
WeT'!: lhe (our tlie twu check-bond: and the
Iilud.
..
QLU'T&n FOUR
U,' Utt milldlt of the )'tv 101lt, my portmt.
til'll"ing hlltl alJl1)Ied me to save o"er t,.-o hundred
rounds, wherewith to buy the neecasary IMteria1:5
for _ prolonged my in the j\lnRle. including camp'
Inlt kit Ilnd store<. , decided 10 take wilh me &!It
liltle all ptCIIlb!t'. IInd IItt on wilh .. C(Jt.
box. tinned food, ",,,tf:t fIIteT, prlrol lnmps. t illt
of priruI. roll. of dmwing "1lI1 tracing pBJ'ICf'.
'"dd(1$, larj.>e nnd .mall dmwinB hoards. nod onl!
or two OUleT for life ill the opt'n. I hIId
one srrvllllt with me IU tom(lllDion and c:ook, So
Iht' grater began, and enrly In June
I left Clllcutta for atmd time in Ofikr to
_udy in the NS. 'l'l'ell " ... 'afe by UIls time 01' the
"rreat value of my jlI'QIJIeeth'e tludU:-.
On this OOf:N;ion t did not !IVC tilt' InlIn lit
JBlpon, hul " little farth!'r, to 11
d_tion ealli'X1 Pacbon. on the main line of the
(:1"(111 hut.n Prniusulu Itnih .... )" two hundred
_nillbirt)' miles from Ult: WC$1 01' flombay.
Since "ly Ian- "j It I wu glad to find dUll _
mihrl\Y. ntnJlin;- Ihro\laJr
Kband5l1 in the valley of Urc fi''Cr T(lI,tl, fronl
..
M/I Smntd " 'ril 1(1 Ajlmw
P!\ChortI. JlmrtkIn to Jamnt'l', had bttn opened.
and tmaL the neart'!lt point. to tht .\jant. ea.vcs
'IOU I'a!tur stalion. hrtnly.fhe miles rrom the
junction.
On arriving at I'achcn. ,try late at I
had to ... !lit UlItiI mcanlillg ror tht train to 1'llI1IIr.
Oting thi5 timt' D. 6f('Ond-clals paMmF. l'I'rP
alktwed to OIlCUpy. .t Ule eond-cl1lSa
I!mnpcutm.ent or UI" !lU'I'OW-/fD.UI!" l"IlilWllY. Tbe
compRrtlnmt. dour! in the fidelf diManl'e
rrom the station. 1n the dArk I.lIl.mlx-r or
ca.rritd nly IlJ\<I \111 wtnt rorlll-
with la the Mu'tifl"t' Cor tht lIii!hl" rut, imite .. .d
01 rena.ining in Ihl: WlIilmg room At U.e "Inlion,
My .etvlUlI, Narayan, toem madt beds COl' us
"
.Vu to Jljall/a and IJIlIt
both, and II'e tried to go t(> sleep till t1aybmlk.
In the IiTta;e sonv: a,...y we heanl
'Jle of musiq. ,..ilh dtuml a.nd null'5. 1Oflg.!
amI abo MW Ulflmgh tJ.C' window or
tI.e ean-iage the glowing Ught of lord'lel in the
diltaMe. piercing lbe aunry darknew. It 11"115
impossible fQl' me to doer, ., I $d. off to tee wh"t
felth'ity "'lIS 01\ foot. NamYlln behind
.. iUI the thinp in the >mpartmmt.
I round that an lndilln JalnI perlOnJUlllC'e ... as
taking place under n gigantic bnnynn trtC. in an
open Ileld by the side or the lillage. [n the
middle of a great aovrd a youth, dre$$ed up as a
girl, <hmd and tans with oolU.iderable gmOC!.
lIQlt or the listmm .. t on the ground. and a
great tn.IlIl)' torehes were hung from the
of lJce tree, 1be younS lady In UIC! middle
."ett'Ied to be aiuging of her jo)'ll and sorrows i
IllIIL what appear! to be a tboit of aboulllO'"enty
pmIO/IJ the re!run to the Uf'ODlpaniment
"r drum .. fluta f41d oUlI'f inllnnflenl$. Jt '1\"115
.. kind oOllU'llthi bnJU&&e, which [t "'Ill beyond
.0)' to undtnland; .. nd as the dance
"'M but rtpttltion. it did not
alUlUC' me to atay l'try 10nK.
Soon tbe dawn broke UIf'CIUiII the aky.
and the. cocb bq;an to crow. nee dop howled
in the village: ,.be lAmps mre already out and
..
r
MU Srcrmd Vitit w "'flln/ll
the people astir. M 1 came nenr the nation I
laW .. 5Duill hut. Blld QeflI' by .. l ~ crowd IIAd
IU.1Cmblm. I found that it was n Iittlt s .... eet
shop, in!lidCl which lnl\tllcn wcre <'(mvel"llilll
BlfertionBldy with tht bef&n1ed p"'l,riclar, to
whQnl they relernd lIS their" 1JUlma," or uncle.
'n.e old Ibopktc'pel',..... frying jUebies (a favourite
Indian swcetme.t) and sen'i", Ulem hot. to his
esger and hungry CUItomeI'l. I joined the crowd.
and hlwing secured B portion of the de1i.c:aq-.
Cl1rrn..:i it b.aek to the train to cat wiUI NlU'ayan
on the journey tQ Pahur.
There WCJ"C hlU'dly any pusengen on this lioo,
alld thtl'e ...... only one Jtmd-ciIW ~
in
Ule train, .nth UIr'ee or four thiN-el1l!l!J cnrriagel
joined together. My drawing bouds wCt'C: too
big to gn in Ule ... n, but r explnim:d Cully to the
guard the imporunee or eon"eying then. and
Uley "ere finally c:arricd with both doon: of tlte
van open, and man in clwge 01 UIt lu,gpge
inside.
In the moming at tight our train \elt Paeho ...
Junction, but lOOn halted again to take up a
.tout little genUeman who came hurrying along.
lie 1Ii'RI dresoIcd in khaki Irnicker-boe ....... a,HI
pulUes, and wore B IfOIAr tOjli. He CIlOlC into
my compartment and .41 Abo bound lor railur.
Our train Ilnally ten the junction (or Pahur
..

I
from whith the eaves are only a dirtanct' of about
flnttn milet to the south.
The gcnUenum who had !IO Deftriy miW!d the
mm ... a railway engillf.(T or suneyor, and he
... ked the guard to join us in Uti! earriage.
Amonpt other be Md a douhle-barrdlrd
gun. end tI.S Tooe l ... \'clkd Lbrough the toUon fieldf
we MW rmmbers of buck and flleding in
lhe field,. My fellow hcctUJ\e quite
u.dled. IUld IIlIked the guard tn . top the t.rnin
in ordu that he mighl ,hoot some of Uu:m.
The 1",ln .topped in the middle or the fldds .nd
the hunt" got down IUld made to.anili the
hmls of dl': but after" re;.- UWlIIC'CftiII!III . hob
the pme _tiered. Md he \85 obIigftl to retum
10 thC' tnin whim 1II'P ready to atarl without
biln. n C''''&I much disappointed and lIIowed "
kinK ft.C'C.
IIlwing f**d Sindomi statioD, we arrived AI
I'ahut lOOn alter ten o'doek UIC tIIrne momirIB.
arid that at but I had tell.ched the thrcahold
of DI)' uncit'rlakil'lg,
I ...... dia!r.ppointcd to find no bulloek_rt
to MlITy my things to the caves. thoul{h I had
wnl ward to Ajlll1b1and to the .t.ation-
master ut Pahur. PahUt, being the lut. big
vUIatt' m the British laritoIy. there b a post
dO. bunplo ... and police oulJ*l.
..
11" Smrttd PiN t;) AjankJ
through the hdp of 11 police official and or the
vil.t.ge hesdrnn.n, Pale!, I wu able to find two
bullock earta: and 00(' carlllrhC!'. This lI"aa 1'10
t:IISy lask lit Pllhur during Ute cotton 1ItMOI'I, '"
the J"fflplc 'IIf'Of"ktd long hours In the. Btlds. AAd
tamed mort money UllIn by driving cart..,
My KtVAflt X/I.tII.)'an wu anything but 11 skil.
ful drh'u, 11) 1 took the place of Wellbicllldri,' er,
Illld wc stnrted oR in the rorttloon to go to
}'.vdapur ..... hlch ...... only "bout ten mIlCl ..... Y.
The bullocks in these pa.rU lire altJ\OlSL wild,
and tIle,' are hard to dri\c. eJpCdAlJy "'ilhout
tlu:i.r proper nWlters. I found thiJI Ollt to my
COIit, ror as " "1: dellOellded " slope ne.r the bank
otthe Rivl'l' 8agh"",, the cart nut oll lbc rocW. and
c:ullidcd wilh the boulders in mifllltrtam. A
"het! came 0". and a t in of oil burst and
with the current. J .."" it .... l1li no good
aUemrling to dri"c t.hac wild IInimals
rart.bc.r, 10 I ldt Narayan behind .,dth the eart.anrl
thc IU"age till U,e f'CIIl drh' et ahauId come from
the liclds. and stuta,l {or the ea"eI myacl{ wilh
tbc rc:mllinin,l'llrt.
On my way It.I Fatdllpur, I ...... on tboldt. many
pt01MC alld cart" gulhtil WucU,cr in Ihe bate
by U.e 00c ofa tiny "illage called " akod.
It WIU a br4thl lunny aftt'rtIOOn " 'ben I reached
this and I WAll told tMl 11 boner .....
..
J111 Pllfrim/l&u /(1 JjollUJ and UtilI!
bci.ng llr.id that pnrlicular day, this being a
WC"!:'kl,. tl'mt. I was glad to buy pnwisions.
JlU'h a rew vegetahltoa, potatoes.
onJolll!, Il lilLle goat', lIIatt Rlld lI()llle nee,
is the- _I bvundar)' dllag<- 01 the llritish COl'ml'
!Dent in this part. and 1 (ouud lb('re ",.Ili alt()
a RnaII bnmcb post oJIlee in a little Iu .... mud
""""-
F,utiapur, we apprVftcilffl tow"rds tIuBk,
is a mWI village of ,real antiquity, ami the
mtUlm. of the Mt:lgUl tort is now ustd lIS rest,
ealkd CamvanJarai, "bit'h It'BS I'rob&bly
built al time of King AlU'eflub, Thill "ilIa!;'!'
beiJlg tilt" rimL border ill the Niuun'.
tory, the Moluunmw..n mic,. fortified lla ..... inst
invasion from north hy 11\" construction of
MVera.I torl.a.
The river ilsgbol'1l. i:.uillll rrom !.he AjI<nt:l
tal'S, nlR, Uuvugh the Fftru..pur viDago'; the
inlulbltanta wash and balhc in il, ami drink the
W'lII"r, The bullorks,. bua.loes, and in ract III
Wo drillk aM lie in this si:rNm. and ill
the WnlrtIC'l' UICl'e ;. very Ilttle water, In the
nl(ln4tlOO. or rainy aeason. Ille _tu i,od::a ""I)'
dirty .nd mud.I)', Ind r WAS glad that I lwl nat.
rorp.lell to lmn, I IDkt- with me. nle POPUIA'
tion in tilt ."nnt.pl,lf' \'m. is not UWI
!Wool t hree or fo.,u- bundred, OOll!luting
92

r
.UlI Sffl1tl({ I'ilit ttl AjllnltJ
(}( HlmluR ami MUNlUlllllltlS. !IOJf1e of wJiOTD
IM'eUpiW in cotton and 1llJI.iU'; olhers
ani t.OOIlrttS, bJa.:ksmltllll, dll)(:ll1akcn CH washer
lI1('n. UnrortWllltely /Ul ugly little cottOD mill
lid recently bed, tttclcd on llIe nHr
the f'llrdllpur vUIagt-. and UIIs grt:IItly spoilil tJ\e
pictunotque lISped of what _Id otheroriIt be.
wild IUId t'Qlflantie 'POl.
By tbe evening r arrivl'd at the lnlvdlm'
bungalo .... IIHlI OC'C'Upil tht' roon'I where I pre-
viotWy .ta,-I with my J ... """" friends. but
this lime I was !lIOfIe. N&n.YlIn atrin:d little
later with the tart and tha red. oJ' the Iuggnge.
fltlfl wc began ror the evening meal.
Wto were soon ("r! witb mnny diffiMilliN.
Water hod t .... be rddIC'C11'mm tbe rh'er, which ... AI
a flOOd distanee aWIlY. There WIl!i wood to be
pthm:d; and (l1"O\'isIoJw, ,ueh .. milk aDd tgp.
had 10 be bought and canitd from the village.
Next morning, when 1 saw lhC' eun.t(Jl' of the
CfI,\'cs, who lived .t the okl Sclrn.i .t f'.n.1apur. I
wed him .bout Ule \cllml and which
f had predOU'lly He laid he had not
them. and asked nle for the ptnuil to
t!Op)' tilt' rr-on. wlUeh I sllO",'t'd him. Tlow.
ever. ill ,piu of all lite difficultits, 1 wu .Me
to seltle down to bein my -ork, and I went to
and fl'O'lll lbe CII\'<'li every day.
'"
MII Pilgrintl1gu' " 0114 HDlil
At t.hi.f travellers' bungalow at Fardapur any-
ean Ita)', by paying a hali-rupec. per day
(which is much IOOfer in price than the British
lndiAn n*pee, vlllue .bout thitttefl IUlnu), pro.
'idN lhalthtn' is. room or that it is not OCCUllicd
by Ilny of lhc CO"crnmcnt officiali:, One has to
1Ilke MC" (JWII bedding. food, r.ook and sen' .nLs.
'l'he sillUltion WSI euiu (or me this lime, .. I
knew my way to the roves, and had tome pre--
liminary from my pre1' ious \' ilit or
whlcl1 they contained.
..
,
j
;.

)
J

CllAl'TER fJVe
I BalS MT "Oil. L'1 TUr. ..
l:f the COUIIIe of Ute third "till')' H.C. 10 few of
the gt"o!at. Buddhist munks had .troll, rlaire to
(Qml S4ng}u1. __ colony lor UU! wonlllip of the
Loro lJuddhll.
They aenn:llI!d eagerly (or. rrtreal from the
I'IOiIy world, and ultimately dboovered .. rv-
InIIntle, Kduded _pot in the gorge. neat Ajanla,.
whue,.. few natlU'al hob: in the: hillside .uggt:ttal
the pNlibUity or tArving OClt the -roclr:y _rp to
form temples. mOllrultic htllb. chapels and dor-
mitOOa. ... hue they eould jW(ly the Buddhist
t'Ulture in prate.
Soou the lllme of this ,poup at wnlly mM
'Ilread \lVl."r the CC)UnlJ)' and aLtlarti good and
lcamod peopk. the rich among ,..hom helped to
ettaWilIh P"'Pl'2' unlvc:rsity in thlt ",vine. whelf'O
Religion. Pb.iIo5Qphy, Art, EtlUea, aJw all hij;hct
lhinjpl could be
'nlc: nuclad or UIi ideal 1,lIli\'nsity ,..u 11
chapel, whkh was devoted to
lIloru.I lfotahip. &.lid It lII,lW kMlInl .. U\'C 10. It
.... cut out of t.rgt' 0( living rock ill the
IIhccr side Ollhe clitf with infinite labour .
..
MU l'tltJimllgtl '0 AjD"!a (I"d UlIgh
Before heJlinninJ!: my mlrk at ".he ta'-el l madea
I"noJiminary iTll>pm..iulI of ancient tmlp1es.
110 as to r...rm an idea of bow to procc'ctl with Diy
tbuli!$.
I dt:cidtd to begin by copying the _U-paint--
ings. darting with nlQS! pl'imitlve and work
inl( Rf'8.lIuaJly up to tlle highly-dcvt'lopM onC'!.
in ... hid! way 1 lboultl bt belkr able to follow
tilt' different .I./lg(:s of this greallchool of JllIlian
....
The oIdcsl.group of eaves at AJanta lies in the
middle of the Uesc:all-$haped hm; and c.\'e
10, with It. great .emi-ein:ular nreh IInd gate-
window 11.00 Ule I't'!'Il or thiA ecnlrtLI gTOUp of liix
(a"eI, .... 1:tt: the first to be e:xca,-atcd. as the roclc.
15 at that poiQt nlUch smoother nnd mOJ'e per.
IlttldiClllllf lhan In)''''hl.'t'e t'ise, nlld the IffiUOth
extend& ahral to the lJOttonl 01 tlle
ra ... iDt_
C.ve 10 is a iaJxe eilAitya. Or dl.Bpcl of wor-
ilhip. and is the decpe.;;l 'IJId loftiest of all the
C1I'"eI lit Ajanta_ It Ioob rrom outsiJ" like a
.ogle open ,ate. and pca tsns no pore/I
or IIIlIde top ...mdnw for 141l1t l1li in
ibl canlpcmiorl on the righl, tllaitra ca,-e 0_
It nlCUura nincly-fl ... e ferl long by rorty-une
feet \\ide anti thitly-A:x hij;h, I\nd once
Ilued with ;orgcou. OI"IWllII!I\uJ wooden ribf.
..
pinan IIIU't'OU1Kiini the
nllYe., all with plain odagrns ..... ithOJlI or
bnt (IIltt lhto 1'I'hoIt' of Utt' eal'e ...
('O"errd "'io, 'I'r)' Jhin ,.WI(: pla5ter. IIntl was
painted ., " \"C;ry auly period, pmbabIy from
MO la 200 II,C,
lriforimn 1)1':11 llbove the !IllS 111110
bl'en IlRint ed wilh flgnl'U, but Il'atCely any I.n&tttI
110\\' remltin,
In U,ctI eMl)" do.ys the 8udrlhi<;ts' "lrine did
DOt contain 61\y imallCo but WAS "ain, lJo(l'tti,
cireulu dwped dolllt'. eommon1y eaij(tl a d""UM.
but Il!C'hnicnlly Irnown .. a 111,lpe, whi"h '11''''
made 01' 11 huge mound &r omamCfllcd out-
.iilt' \l."ilh hrid:", tt:rTIIlllllll1ld stone, A dome-
shaped is fOWKl In e-.'try eha.ityA MU'e at
AJanta. In Ihd eIIrly ea\'e is pafcqly pWn
IInd limpi". with" lower hue ov(:r nn.e.-n fle UI
dillmelt'r, TIle 1li!1Ian!! rr:iil! !!bird on Hie
in UI;S MlH' w .. cui out of the rock 111,,1 "till
retaiM iLl originnl fann. but the wooden Iphl ..
iCllr caMP)'. which Will on ilJi lop. 1I11111h(' wooden
ribs "hleb .... 100) adonll:d lM' rf1t'I. h",'t' HU\\' ,.11
pen,hl. Innutl'lt'nlWo n<:llb of wild """ ""W
1uIft( down from the top oC lhe ca"c I'ronl, \\1111
p&rTOU. and hata fly in ami out .1 fft'e
will, Within, <ie.IJile t lit' UM: IUI'
b tcm'bly foul, but o,t' light 15 fairly sood

"


MM Piltri-u' to Ilja1ltn nnd IJfl8A
Then: if an instription on the front riplt
lWlll top .tTnoet of lhb grut ehllilya can 10.
'n.e chanr.ctert are in very SftnSCrit type.
rather largrand crude. It n:a.d., .. llaM,tbil)ubIo.
Kathnllito Sham mukha dlllUUll." whieb meana:
.. Tht- oIallOU$(.' door ftOlll. by Basalhiputa. "
l'n)oobly lhi5 cave "'U o.eavat.c!d by Ollf, of thf:
ancient powtrful AIKillm ki""" or a "et"f rich
mm:hanl nuaUuputa or lhb ndy period of the
third century. D.e.
About tbirt.y yur. 'fO were some ,'ery
fine of paintings on the 01' this
temple, hut now thq' have All vanilhed. Var-
nisb ..... applied to them by Europc:an offi('('ft: who
eopitd them rrom time to time. The object. of
tM Ilpplkation of \"Umish wu to bring 001. U,e
eoIouts. hut the 1lna1 drtd hu been UUlt the
(racmenb have gone compleldy hJa.clt; what
e\' er remllincd has IJeen M'rlhbkd OVel' hy U,e
.-i&ilors to the eava
In this tellJple one ean nUl jUlll n:eopiIe.
U-.gh lbey Mve amx:.t completely des-
troyed, the J ataka lAIea iUustnlting the .wry oC
u ... Iixto.bd mp!Ulnt, st<Jrils of previous
inranUlloWlI" et Duthllm, IUld aIJo mM)' otbtr
nuddhi.'lt Ie,o::nda pUnlw WI Ule wall. As UIt
at.ory j,'QCI, tlle Bodl.ilat ... (the pte\'iouI birth
__ ut Uuddha) came to tife .. the daief eteptuUll
..
I IJcgin "'f! 11"0,4 if! 'lit C(Jf;Q
of n gmll htrd of right li"JUl;IUld. in the Uima-
layu. '1,,' Y dwelt neaT Lake SluulJmbAla in 11
goIdcn \'e, IUnit! JXlOb: of trhitr Iiliet. hlue:. ...
IInd rutlot.l5o('S, and 1I.icUU ut' rnI pOOdy, Odds of
mr:lont arnl ut nllmy other planlJi. l'UIt' 'l\hitc
try the clUd elrpha.nt, wjU. ret! fect anti and
a lMlllk like 11 sil\'(!r rtIfM'. nwl his nAme WIIS
Chath.nta. lit had two ',Ul'!;n, "nd
l\lnllMuvnda. Once: whHal >I'ltlk1n, with hiJ
qW!CbJ he IItruek a l1li.1 tn<: will. his
a .hower of twigs-and red .. nla (rll upon Knluu-
"l\(ln. hul on her rival raJ ouIy tlO,",rI aod polle,',
I .. ter M:!oIuu\I\'ada imagined liwl Ku!uu,.ad ..
,..115. h .. ravollrik wife, and dlCriBbtd .. crH:v1Ul'
.,.inll him. Sbe prIIyed to the godt thnt .he
might bt' reborn &I a beautirul nWdetIlNI beeome
Uue QuC'tn 01 8eIWlU, ror she III1d to hcttdf:
.. I "WI be Io\'dy in IIh eyes aOO then I shall dQ
whal I pl_. I will sr-Jt 10 the king and he
Iludl ,;cnd a hlUller wiUI .. poiJont'tl IUTO'" to
wonnd IUld 81ay the elephant .. nd brilljl' me .. p.Lir
of Mm; 1w.1oI whieh give rorth sixC'(>Iourul m),5."
111('f.ft'rorth.he took no rood. anu pining
she diet!, ntt),-oo.,.anUd het" pn.yer, and i.n
due t.Ulle ahe wou rebotn. beeame tIle Qt_ of
and -..ked all.er Ionl I boon, whk-b
wouW not uutil -.11 the killa', II\Ullwnen
"llIbh:d. 'nlen she pruclainMld her ... Jclr;(t)
"
J/lf J'jt,rimlJlltf le Aju"'A and na,h
intmtloo to c:aptlm! Ihe tusa C1l Chadantn. TIlt:
chief hUllt.eT, Sontlta, whom 'he sent, took all
nt(!JItrtll implcm/!'lIb wilh him. attired himself in
the yello,\' robes of a holy mall, und anc:r In\\'el
ling Cor yean, shot U!e royal dephanL with
the
ilfI'O"', but be was UnAble to eut oIl
I.M lusb, although the lay do...., and
Id. him climb up his trunk. So the elephant
bimlldf with hia trunk pulled tbem out and pve
them to hunter, who departed. But. bdura
the fIlbcr dephanu cou1d reach him Cbadant.
had died,
So Sonuta returned, II.lld when Lhe tusk. were.
brought to the qut'CU, she critd: .. 00 you lell
me he ill dead f"
" Re514SSUrcd he is deAd," was tile .MWt!'.
She la.id the tmks in her lap. and thinking t.h4t
the.e the tuIb of onc who in hu fonna
l':'I;irtence b.d been ht-r dear lord. the "' .. filled
" 'ith 10 gre.t .wrow thatllhe o.:mld not l)flAr it ;
and then Slid her hrllrt brolu!. ant.! ,he died
llle .. me day.
III 11 portion ollhe 0C1 the right ",all
is Ia:n UIe hunltr diiChllrging hia arrow,the huge
ai:c.hW:nl. dqMWlt lyiro, dq,rn. IInd ruH! lumkr
enppl in o;UlOng oR tile sU- tUJb. ",bile
anaJI.i't5 lbcm in bamboo ding to ClUT)' tltem
....... ,.
100
In the UI1JlCT drawillg iI .bown hfrti nI' de-
IlbnU- dbporting IhcmSf'lnos in lhc: jungle Amidst
IlA(lIut lOud oonYlln It't'CII. '''UUI'/!'
tloro, being the Sbt-tlblttd elt-plant
nlllth lUGet' U"II All)' uf the others "nd ,,'hite in
eolwr. 'I'he looc.Iy ur this clephaot is doUal an
OVfr with ImlllI brown lpot.a, which give, realil!t!e
Imitation or the texture of the hide_
In the (owe'!" dmwing the huntn b: seen on the
kJt; ht; tInS reachro lhe crat of the rid,,'O
R\nI ....... I'U" -n.M' 1:< c.....: 10
",Id 00I1lC':S upon the huge elephant_ Sal. to the
righL, art a king and IeIlled on bumboco
.took.. <'tlnllnon C\'l'I' t.o--da.y in India, ,ur-
rOUfMled b)' thfi r female attendant. and t,,o
hunters, (JIIC carrying the su,; t\lSO h&flying in It
lwunboo iling balanoed .cn.JM his thoulder_ TI:oc
quctn ut the' aiuhl 0( Ule lUllks tllmS G.my nnd
Appears .trickcn 'l'ith while the kinl!
and her maideM cndelwuur hi COIl'OIc her,
Farther to U,c riaht. the kin, and quoen are
on cloain which seem quite modtTn. and
the 1-0 hunt.cnl witb their haoo. in a .uppliant
101
MU PiluirMstt to Aj/n.w "lid 8ng}t
lIuitlllk U\eDl. nle king is
Ihem. \\hUe qUeM nppenrs to wish to un,,'"
kil'll" altClltion to lilt: pilgrim resllng on hit
Iona atidt on her right.
In the next. $(.'me Cluet!ll, .enUd tnm't:
011 n cimililr stool. IIppears to be atlll grit,ing.
The Id", allllMU in (1'01'11. eonsolillg her ..... lIl1e her
maillm" 111'0 1111,1 0I1e: litullg. arc u.-
lcning 10 UlCir oolwersalWll. IlehillcJ UII!: queen
if; a t'Olltil or heel in a palaa:.
nil!: next M'CI'IC I'f'Pruenls the king and qlKlrtl
\\'iUI tlldr mnidclUI walking in tit" gnrtlen. Qnc
mai<lm" piddna" Cmit from .. tree.
'l11C painting to UIt" right of tJlis .. e:tlLirdy
tbtrQ)'M, Lul it i. belie:nd to haw!
the: datll of Ihe: queen with a brokC'D heart.
nu, atory of the 8iJ,:tUSikcd elellh"nl llU!l
illwuaud on lhe: walls more tJlBn 0II(lII at ,\jlUltA.
and in Ihia <'U.&C these early nrLisu it in
natTlltin rutUon. with. ecrtllin nllmber or con
neding link htt"/Jtlen tile , ";ous TI,c .
ptintinp hen! belong to tJl(': m05t 1)I'i/llith'e I
It'hool. of BllddhiA rut, and therefore L 1I1OughL
it the best pill('(! al which to start eopying.
,"le. grwncl upon LhO(" My
"'cre e:xerutm '"" a "cry thin wllite plaltc:r.
ahoull1lf' thickJl('ll of an on tht: .moolh
surface of UIC rock: it is amoother tM.'ft' than ill
""

_
_
_
-",I
I Br,i. my Wur: in tll' Cm:a
any other of the caves of this series al AjAnla.
Some of them r_ the open air and 8.l't expod
to the action of bulh IUn and min., and lheir
IOfI'Ibre n:mainJ an:.'-o l'Ovcred with innumerable
names. datca, IillUm of va.rnish and othet obstacles
to pl'e!ltrvlltion. "he pIIintinp on tbe l'IUt lide
of the octagonal plUMS in this fll1it Clil'e, howcvu,
though much drunll'Od by wcaUler IUId IIC.Tibblcs
lire c1ca:rly The), reprt'lcnt iJudllha
.tanding uprigbt In the art preacliinQ: 01' at
benediction. SoIM an: just ",,'er rool In tile.
while otheR are almost at llUg(! M life,
Thcac paintlllgll tcenI of. muth Iutcr date UWl
tloe on the and probably tbLe
/I.S lnte as flUh ur mr.t.h I.'f!ntury A.D, The
dark sweepin; line of the dnpay and of the
IlIloo., eyes f.lwllimbs is vuy intel"Clting and ot A
vlgofUUJ and QciVflIlt'Cd teehniqut'. l.Iut the folds
an! tltawn 1lOD\'l'Illitlnally.
Some of the&e l.wtings un dearly bmI
flAinted OV(T the thin SllrfQte of flnc early pAint.
Inp. TIle pUntings tx:hn:m the ribs 01 the
Qisles were abo exccuted at mud:! lIIter .utC',
probably the thin' or fourth century A.D" about
the salDe time &I t.h!lt of UIe pilintinp 011 the
jJiIlan.
Uut it is curioUf that about twent.y !ngmmta
ot mOl'i! modern inscriptions, painted witli dark
'"
Jly l'ilgrimflga 10 Ajl/ullJ !fM Ba'"
brmo1l Qf ftd ('U[our. hftYII! beef. (Ol1nd in
r!Io' eo '"'It p..illted over oldtT work on U.e
.. ,,11 .. bllt If,,, t "r t IJon on the InlllU'S.
lfUCl'iphOC.., rcl..,. to flgura of Uuddhll..
;.;"" ani)' few (natml:lltM ut kt.kring remain.
1'n>l.i.bIy 11,('''' Ilgurc:$ I"d'e pailltl'o:l by u.(! d ....
feipla oC Uudllha or U\e ,ibhUl.
I 1C1n1cd B porIiolt of the 011 lite: ld\
11'1111. which WII.J; ,i.\I bk in tbe dayli(:hl, for
till hut Ilr$t t.ouk my ' ..... mp hlllldkc:r-
thief I.lId rui>b,d MlI\,. or the: dl.l5t lroru tbe sur
c..... .\ rn.nLclr- happtned 1 SUlidenly I u,,,, a
("'i:Ul .. .nl nf c:xOl'llmt 1ira.III1 ear .. big -.lmond
C!)'II!, .. aDd cyebrolQ a.lld .0 on, (or ..
, ..
I IllIilt lily Work ill fAa Catl(6
rew.ecoods. but as soon .. the moiJtUrt e\'IIt"
I1IItOO. the wbole- pkturt vanished_
I eh* litis pit' from the wall 10 topy. and
"fu, bll\ing had 11 goo<l look, I bung a abed or
I.rlu:!ini I'"IKT from Ule top or it, with adhesivr
bru",u: lItT\'ing as dnt ... illl-Pins.. to that UIe
fJU('() "'IIB not tourbtd. Standh'JJ OIl tbe ..tq>-
ladder, I rolled up tbe trncing J111J1Cf from tbe
IIolwnl wilh the Id'l hlUld. looked III the drawina-
CllrctllJly. and lrittl 14 unllcntond ,,11 the 001-
lillni hit by bit: tllen dowly I urndJcd the tracing
papet down 011 the originul p:UnUug Md began to
traCC'.
By tndng 11 pmtion .t Cl timt I dilco,'vW a
mOi!I cha.nning 11lcturt .-.r R king. queen and
prinl'C'M. and wafllcn nltl"ndn.nu, who lonnaJ
pnrt of a Ilroc."eII5ion, two carrying relit I'IlSItd31
and some othtt' object, a,1(! onc with IUI umbrella
borne oyer tM cuket Itnd Ihe km,. 'DIe royal
party are watrhing ti,e in<'mi bodhi-tru: hunS
with olfcringl. "'hill:- on the ()I.bu side are wor-
Ihlppel'l. Urre abo ill depicted the Jlunting of a
hu.ge 5Crpenl hy the ,ide of a fons!. E\,f'ryone,
from the kinG to Ul<' little: b01, is 1U1'1I.)'cd in
jrwellc:d robe!I, neck""'" and anu-bandt,
nuUinr e\'c1'ywhl'l"e he", ill l'eq' but
,trillingly lUoclg and true; 1100 lhere i3I a Ihy
rea1bru lhrouahOl.lt, notably in tbe ddiate IInp-
".
I
c n APTEn SIX
1I0W TIll'- W1I1: f'11lST STAan:.D
Wm:.... the roUolYC!'5 or Duddhn hnd Rctlllllly
fOllnd.etl their unh' tl"'it.y Ly euttingout orttle roc-k
It large etlldtyll., :';umber 10, Olho:r monks bq, .. n
to hca.r about the' illstitution 811d d i me to I\jlllltA
rrum \'lU"iOUl Jmrls of l udil!. 'nu!:;r patl'OTl5 p ,t
big dOO.lUoIIS, MId tile !!iCCOnd ra,'" WQ cxrAvated
- the .0(-"0/)11 /!hapd for w(>J'Ship by the aidr. or
the mighty Ir.mple Xumbt'r !U.
TlliA: IlCW cl"l.it),a ill now known II!I cave 9.
10 ttat earl)" period or the Buddhist cult, between
:wo and 000 H.C., people were UIOl't' devoted to
practiad religion OWl to oomfortsbltl living in
lJiI!.PnI. TIle two iT"eefui cliailyu made
and bteame The liUlt group of Build
him, CW" the $/In" hll lIS it 6 ea1ltd. reil' larru
eo,-ny IllIy, and lhI: .iltnl.irof UM." lonely .. OQI.I&I
11'113 fill.,.. ,,-jth pnt.ytrs .nd chAnt&.
Thollgh this new temple il only about halt tbt'
, iw ot tJlC ndshbourinlt wity .. 10, it b none the
k:. mu&t importll llt. It W U\r Jownt in posit ion
1)11 the aidll of the cliff and the ..... nest lIt-tbe
""'"
OYer the front doorway t here. '!I'''' rot a ""'-
'01



dOWl opening, rorming a window about t,,'C' I\'e
feet high. and admitlillg light into UIC interior of
tlU!! cave, TIlla window, in ahape liOolething like
a lotus leAf. f()lml the UIIIIer part of Ill< poreh
IIpOIl which it fe9t.s, and which 8eJlal'1l1es it from
the main mtnll\(:C', It fomll gtftlt contrast to
ill othttand earlier NumhC'r 10, wllich
is quite unique, in that Ul< whole of OIl' [rout i:!
open.
fayade or this b CO\'emj with
taning. of yariouJ Bwldhu, .tupas and horse-
AIKlC.' Ilmaolt'llt8 like Ul.lIt of Ihe window, all of
"hlth IU"C .till in good coodition, nlough finely
worhd, lhe c:an;np lue quite unobtrusive 4"d
in entire hannOlly with I.heir turroundinp. Re-
the rubbish heap!! IUld debris of broken
.tones whicll had act;umlllated in rrognt of it ban
clC'a.n.'d a.a)'. and a little mile wall Iw
been made,
On tbeld'tll.lInd side, in a by the wiOOow.
Lhcre i, a mod charming group of ean'inp,
depic:tlng Buddha, stated, and preBching to Ull'
UWJ!lbled Ilrinctll IIlId monla, wilD aTe .tandlns,
Thif; ill or:r. the n,bt.haOO side by other
figures of Duudllll, boUI lrtiUlding and aitting.
,\\1 tll_ sculplnl'N wen: probably .dded al. a
later I.kte, pub.p' in the rourth or fifth nlurles
4.1),
106

I1e c _
__ 6I.ttrW
",TOm the ouUWle it would we!D that thae lad
0ftC'C" been a grtat deal or "gOd"wk in the front.,
"hldl ha all pmshed, but in the carnd 0rN!-
menu the

and e'ery,,' h!:n: t'ke

.... ould appear 10 ha" .. ba.-n mlleh eop)ing of the
.. ooden
In Qldl!l1 day. in I!Idia,
f'l'1Iu-eI and great

u a ruloe made
mainly of ftWd with helms and raflnw I
l hfS!! hcing unsuited to the 01 dimat.e.
heal, eoId and torTentia1 raiN., periIbcd. but
8llIl in many pruU 01 the land lbe lIindUJ Io" e to
hv .. in gorJtOWly dor1lted wooden houtet., 10
that

.tructur...
meticulously cupi!
in stone. whkh style is C"m no,,' used by
ladiana for palaeN and twlpllS. It ;' this; tort
of traditi.maJ form "Mcl1 "e let exemplified in
the chaitya 11 and 10. Uld in othm too.
Though the liGht. mlers frtdy through the
'1'" .... window in this cbapd. the interior is
ne"utbdeu dim,
Th. tin'" mtILI1lr'S inside torly,I'h'l: feet lone
by fed. and is l'IfeDty-1.hru
fed. high. Two ro .... cl mauive, plain ortacorW

eoiumnll without buc or eapit.!. joiniDg in a
rnicircle .t the end. tU"ide the aide aiIb, and
a hurt Yell reet in diamd.eT. the duel
object 01 oronhip iD thlI: u.netuaryo. is .et iD the
f'OW
Ided..-.
The
nupa .taDdI
, ..
My PilgrimQ8U 10 AjIHlW uml BatA
on " plain cyliudricuJ IJIlSe five: feet high.
ftllO!mbling a cry"tal. TIle: dOllll!; iltdI
b also about feet high. and supporlt a
n!fm1b1ing a reliquary, lllis luwing III one Ume
bec:n 'UrnlDUflted by 8 "'OOIlell canopy. now lung
all\Cle peri$bcd.
n.c lide aWes &re llal-l"OOfrd, alld were once
co'cred with deco,.Uve IN!.intinp of ,llIied
dl'iigns, of whitl! now hAnU}' I tt.ee remains.
In this cave, loo. ... in NUIIlbrr 10, the pillan are
enriched .ith JIIlintinJlS of standinJl' Uuddha:;,
BOrne of which r.xtdinJly bermlirui. The)"
arc nearly &Ii old 8.'l th()ti(' in lQ. Buddha. hilt
head turrouwled by 11&10. H shown with dia
apla. wOr5bippcrt.. kinp and and -.mike
king!! with cobra hoods. tOQdher lVill. tl"llCCS of
cady types of buildings, IlllplLl, and triple "no-
piea-allll1Olt intcn:.ting, .. dcpietitlg llre earliea1
Iype of Indian life existing in Art. Unlort.u
naWy, the meaning of many of t'- painlinlJll
1111, not yet. been discovered. 11,e wholt of lhe
tan was otiC(' with. kind of ... hile lime
ptuter. upon .hieb tilt .-,intinjp .ere uecutcd.
These piclulU .how Ule peculia.- way in
which btrbarut wt:l'('; worn in thO!le early dll}",
'I1.ey _ere int.et-'ovcn will. Ule wearer' long
blad; hag..nd dt'C'lDralc:d witb uw..o.l ... e lrIUlmenu.,
.nd WeD! wom In UiliI .a" by botb men and
110
women. Perl'eet iIIwstratiQlu or the ooslnlllt':5 ami
manne .... of thoet" daYI ue round in ~
nUlnben
l)(lth in thb ClIVI': ami io Number 10.
n,c rriezet &loo, tJle top! or the: pillArs an'mOlit
inlcreltlng. Thty &how grrAt ,il&lity and lIlove-
ment. lhe cowherd running IlfltT Iu. bulls. the
tiger ptlrwuing the ec)1I"htTd. all perfect. in de&lgn
and highly nnbhed in li(JUring; U,e cbildl'lm
Al&u IlTC dru..-n very ,hlI,("iQlUly. It it a gmtl
piLy UlIIl 110 mon: or tho;e m&r\dlOlu paintinl
ateuoW Irn ..
In ~ great mAlly p ~ the uppe- b.ycr of painL
bas rallm off, reveAling underneath f'/'llifl!ellb or
much c.J'lier JlielUK'J, .0 it would sc:an thAt thry
1111.\"1': bem paintt<1 oae on U,e lop of &ncIthe:r.
TI ... reason for thll we do nol kno .... wind> is
ralher diaappolnling: but wilh CfUl'ful e;o:&nIIIlA'
III
.'11/1 PiJuj"'UU' "' .4iflnlu Ufld Ba,1t
tion wc enn 'till flnd the or the Ja1tob
taleli in painting on the ......us.
XunlerQU' rrgments or painted inKriptlolU-
All many as lixteen- hll\' c been found in thi, l'1I.ve.
'rh$:. ho ... ""cre nol in 11 gooo.llilA.te of p"'"
.erYlllioo. 110 ' "H)'" liUle of them ran be read, but
they are 01' much IJotes- dRte tllan the paintillgli
and might be the f1rlb Of Axil! I'tlllW")' J..D.
".

'l'l1I'!
Os either lride 0( Ule dtaityas U and 10, 00 the
hillside. WeTe CDVr'mII and n:c;SSeII
which h..t occupied by hQly mm long betorr
the tinY' of Buddha. Gradually lhe urlier he,..
miu died out aDd were succeeded in Iheir ruck
CfI\'Mwdlin81 by Oie Buddhist monks.
By the. natural tl\VeI; bcgtr.n tu pn:r.-itlc
insufficil'J'l1 Ihl!itl'T tor U,e inllreasing number of
DIOfIb, and they .tarttd 10 enl.vge a".ilable
IpUe by ... 'ay the rock and made low
stone bMchcs &lId tiny ocll. 1111 round for the
high cell having two ,tollt (x.(1s (lOO
a tow doorway.
Vtty SOOIl 0( the II\OIIQ' n.rdshi>
sprad in lhe cities. '!be noble amI ricll people
or tlwt d_\:(: nw.dc d0f\4lion. and lhe
best profeasional m.uoru and artisu .. -ere 1:'111-
ployed 10 hew out tempN=. and dC'OOnllc tM
interitm wilh p.inhllg:l- Out to tbr gorj't came
hUlIdmb or cr.tbmtn, Jabouren lIod 1IJ'tists.
with paina, hammcn and dU5C'u, borne by pro-
eusioru of tlephl.llta, and IlUbbub IlNJIe in
of lhe ravine at Afut&. Tht simple
,
".

PiJtri"... IQ Ajallhl aM BlI8h
monu W1)rked IlIud, Dde by .ide
wiUI the stml1gen who l\lid beell sent to help
them.
Soon the moob' rough dwellinbtS were tranl-
(onned Into ilial in
eomparitun, and l'lue embellilMd by mar\'e11ous
peintings on their walls "nd ceilings.
Th_ UVaI of the f1I'5L !/TOllp were not 1111
eomplet.td at one time, 1.11 ule monks, who loved
peA('e. c:ooJd not abide tlH' noisy working men
and the clamour of the building operaLiolUl "'hile
Ihey .... Ih-ing in the It w .. only
during the two "''''')11', the hot .nd the rainy.
th.t lh. fnonb did not go out to the ,-ilIap t.u
preach and to beg Ulei r food. In the other mol'\!
(.vOtmlblt tea5OOS-Sbout diht or nim nlOlltM
in UIC: year--tllty and their discipla ,,'en! _to
ted over \'ouious parts of the NUnlry, .nd only
met. 1000000her apill for _(,out. thTec JllI)flths.
During lhe hut iuul wet 5I:A5Ont tJlCY were
tomoo to t&ke ,.hdter .t heAd1lunrtCl"Ji in UIdIe
mull .. to discus. ror ,-.nOWl work.
01 paety and t:harity in lile next. )'1SZ'.
l)uring their ....,..... .. a (,od)' for eight OC'
nine. munt! .... unl)" ((:11' old al>l! vencmblc heDd
pnats k<'V1 Of UII: place; and Ule tlXClva-
I Iollll of the mOflalltcries And temples had proper
ebanoe to Pl'Otlnll
Ut
When two clJaityu hMl more or k$t tom
r1d.tc1. the mouo turned attention to
more of the lurrounding ()nf:f ror their own
cspec'illl teaidmed. The natw-al ,(0 p .... to the
riahl or wally" 0 ali<I the Idt or chaitra 10 .-ere
d('1I11 Wilh, nlld 9I'Orkmen were soon bus)' turning
them into hllbitable plat:eS. nit' eavC!ll to the
kit of t'lllIitYII 10 we:re H. 12 IInd 1 a: nnd on t.he
of ebJl.ilya D were 8 Rnd 7.
So allogt'lIltT ft"e hiharu. or IIWllMtt'ry hA11tI.
were t:xC3val.td. three on tht Idt. IlJId
two OP tht' right 01 dWtyu 9 and 10. rorming the
flm group or !e"ell .:."ts at Ajant.. Th_ we're
buikling during the tWlJ c:cnturiell whkh ptteedtd
U\t birth of Quill.
Number It is one of the oldest of the monu
teritt-. It .nay lle considered to a period
rrom About three and 11 blr centlll'ks btfon: the
birth orCI.rist to 8.e., and it if probably about
lhetanle IIge .. 91U1d 10.
nU! front of thIJ ave Il1L!I (o.lIen IIW,,)' with the
banmda. ,uul tllcre now only a IIqlla11l
11.0.11 leel taeh way, .... illlQUt Bny
Ililla ... or Internal fUpporll: to the flat roof.
aTe rout ttlb on each of the lluu- Inner
fme. and, inside. eleft.n double Jx.ch 1l1l<1 l'1Ii-t
IlilkiWf to Alcep un were a>t in stone. 11_
Il", nuu-b or hotcs for ph'Ol lUnges In the .ru.
'"

\tu Pi/tri'llWtI IQ Aja-ttllJ 0fId Bogl!
and linlet. or the door_y nd othm in thf!
jltmbe Cor r.,tnlings, " .. b.ich ab", that. lhia-
....... large akeping d\ambcr or donnitOl'y, and
that the moon took ,uffic:ient to keep
oul the tigers during the night.. by dOlling the
entrance and .rinrlows with .... ooden doon IIml
.huuen.
111(' upper IlOnian or the wlllllabove the edl
doo" is beftutifully ormuncnted wilh the
type of unopy. IIOTtlcwhal. like. Iiorsahoe in
Ihapt'. the chaity. window_
bibara no doubt. wu the rll'll 01 ... 11 the early
.me. to be properly dnMed.
".e tIK/IlAItery is iD \' cr)" ruined .tate and
thtre is no trace of painting on the wlllb or
eeiling; also, probably beeause it "at. bHal'tl of
11 very early type. no sc::ulplurcs. paintings or
imagel (or wOl'lhip were introduced in it. lIow-
ever, there d ,llort inscription In thrre lines LO
left of olle of the cdl doon in the back l'I'8n,
whleh .. The meritoriou_glft-of 11 dwelling
with een. and by lbe merchant Gbanana-
dada."
On lhe imnitdiate left 01 bihaB I it IUlOI.ilcr
ancient. little blh..... now known u HI. ....hkh
alIo is eullidy lacking in paintinp. ThiJ "' ..
0fi&inaU7 &QOthf:l" natunl !Jok; in the hilllidt,
and e'l'C'n oow it loob 'O'et)' much like one from
H'

the Ollt.side. J.ike bihara 12, It. front ha. omn
plttdy fallc:n away. It WllS only" "ib,II\I'!
1"00I1I. 01' smnll residence of a holy IMn who til' ed
h('l'll 81'1f1 whose u.netity moy ha"1! .UmdI
ot.l.len to tile lpot. lAter on this 'p"et: .....
properly nca,"t(lntolll pl,ln hall. wiU. polished
walil but 'WIthout plllnrl. of .bout fourteen f<:et.
wide by 5e\'cnteen reet. deep and only IIC1o'CO feet
high. It haI seven cdb with stone bcdJ, lIS in
ea.,e 12, n Ow cool Ind pl_nt it must hlll-c
bn to Iftt here on thole ilone btds in the dark
during Ule brig!l!. hol 5ummer afternoons,
11u:n rom(::!l 8 very $ItI"U bihafa Cl"'!!. 8. which
mu, t haTe bet-n a natural ca,-cm from '-ery
ancient tlma It was built ail1lOlt immediately
01\ the completion of eMit)'. o.
Thil mollA5tery if the first one approaehet whco
ot\e mounla the IIDCient 5tain from the stream
at the bottom. and i. lituaUd .t tbe lowefllel'd
in the hili, The whole of the front hu r .. Ucn
away aod what remalTUI Is nothing but plain.
be.reo rock, The hall it thirty.ttt'o reet. long.
acvenlcen (eet wid('. and only ten fen in hciaht.
n\eJ'e: Are two cells at taeh tnd and twO) on c:ach
l ide of the IIntc-elwnber nf Ih" shrine. Then- ill"
Inw t1(1()1' le.di"i to the dark ante-dwnbr:r in
which is no imagoe. of any kind- nothin, bul a
low .t_ bench at. the hAek.
111

My Pilcrif1lll8U to .djlJn,a Bogh
The Ial'g(llt natunal cnem in this series. on
the right of cave 8. "11& I\l.SO t unlcd intoo a good
billan. and il nOl'l' knoll'n as 7. On applOIIrh
ing tlta !MnMtu)' one eau see Uln.t tJ'cre ate
two porclIcs. el\M IUPportM hy OI:U\gonll l pillnrs
lum1QUnted with eapit .... and in
' pilc oflb porches hdng much dllfllnged. it ,lilI
looks beautiful. It WII& probIIbly Ibm left. more
or 1C14S Incomplete, as in its nlllurnl . Iatc it. Wall
qLllte aJllt C1ml0ri4hle, but WM flnishf'tl at
.. mueh lAter dl!.t.e, probably in the Ulird or fourth
etntury . D.
TIle frie7.c a10ng the front .Ixwe tJII:; coIUnJllS
.. tan'ed with mininture ehllitya onuullcntoJ
wiNktll", This CA,'C measures sixty-three: (<<i.
IonS hy f<>u.rt.ecll feel wide, and is only about.
ten (Cd high, and hll5 no hall, Jo'rom it4. "."pe
it really furms nothing bul a ,-cry long I.w&raD<k.
On each .ide of the '-mudll is " room on a littJc
higher Ie\'ei lb.n the ROOI', with two pilIKrw in
the doorway, "lIIl t hese room!! contain
tell$. In the hae:k .. all of Ute bIlranda are (0111'
t>Ul(:r ftlla. apparenUy ClleavatetJ lIS livina-fOI.lfTIjI
for the. hol'lOUnl.hle (Ubt. .t tbc ullinnity.
Rlaht. at U'e back. in the rentl'e: of _11
cd!.., is an allte-clul.lnOO Ica.diJlI
l4 tlle .brioe, ,its L eoIotSII! statlle of
BudUhaDebl. OD .. lion t!lrurlt.
118



",."", . ,*, ... "
. ~ ,.. ''',
right blind milCd in lh(' net of blNr!ring, On
CIlch side of the door of the &II.Itclu..ry .rt' eif;bl
(!OOd or four lIt1mdln" and
(our wul"!lhiJItMl, 0 .. Iht nl/ht lint! left lilltt:
of the Ibrine 1I.n' \'cry nl4llY good lCuJrturn of
Bmlllhu in roW$. .h''lU1 1IC\' eIt in row. AiltilLlJ
And ItIn.linx ClII Uu' lotus, ,,/HI Ih" le''''eII
lhem. TIle of the IQ.tIIt A'od t'('IIll1Il lot",
is ullllCId by IlI'n f1p!re5 roylll
headdreJlJa: prollllbly they wen' U,c domOl"l "r
the caVe!'.
..
Ono:o: II.bo the whole or Ihis tnnl,lc Wld
with I_utiful r-i.lltinJ;:'8. fot during tht whole
of the thy it u A tnl!.ny very
faint Cnlgmenu of pAintings nill l'l'Tnain 011 the
booek .. 11. but no artist hu yn \'allured to ('OIlY
them.
l luch l1igher till thedllr on tht len of chailya 10
11''' another nabl"", C.\'tr!I or ,..!her a dUferent
1)lX'. whith Ilr\tlbpc!d into A heautlful n'S1-
denr-e ((It Iht higb prietl15 of tha.ilya IQ. This
Wh etptt'illlly ('()I}venicnt (Ot I ""m. I-tI tile), lO'ould
be dOR to their n'liaioU5 dwlCl.
Thil bihara No. I t i. much smaller in lize
Ull'In chAitya Xo, 10, and might be <'Ithtr oartly
conl.empontry with (11' a rew yeanI lato UlIln ita
m1panion,
It. general .ppearanee from oubide if quite
'"
, My PilgrimQgtf ID ""jIIN/(I tllld 110Sh
plain Ilnd -"Implc. nnd in ktepillg with ita ndgh.
boo"" (lr this carly period. Ju .ntiqlllty
is thewn by tJle rubbed edges of U", fliGht or m .. 1I
"tep.slcadiIlB up to iL A p1i1illr Il .. turc. or the
front of it is the barunda, which Jihllta it in and
nakes it flOIiy. Tbe bal'llntln is II.IPported in
front by four octagonal columllA with Im.ckct.
enpll:ab IUld lIquate buc:s. raiKocl 011 a po.ncIkd
panlpet. tile rOOf of tJle bllrnndn projling onr
the pill..... At 001' time t.he whole of thlll CAve,
both root' IUld wltlls, "-U mooratc!y painted ;
unfortunAtely. with the c"ception Qf a few
plJ.ees in the banUlda. lhe.e are llllllOllt.
ttlt.ireiy rone. "'blltc"eT JtlrviYed the hand of
!'i.lure WN oblltcmted by lM)fIIe modem prete:nded
holy men .... ho took up tJltir abode In thee
CQvea anti daubed tbe walli o\'cr wiUI clay and
cowdmg,
'I'M doorway lcadlns from the banaodR t.o t.he
inleriol- hall iJ ploiner and kM d-omlive than
01 the: other bih"",, or A later date than Ulia
1CJ'iQI: the Akps to the. hull, hnwcvCJ',
arc Ildonled with two Imn,' hc:&Uk or j:OOd dtSign.
On cithft- lide of this door ill a 4uge., aquue -.rin-
do.-, ru\'idtd by two pillnrs into three opmingt;
and to thif; cave, t.bou!;h small, can receive .. ,ne
liaht, eaptdaUy t.owanls afte.f.lOCM. On the left.
ut tbr: door tben- has tW!C been Io\'dy painting
""
or Il taU. illlDlling Buddha on Il hlukhbllLek
ground. I'll. robe hdd graterully in Ilia hand.
i\lU("h ortht mnaining pAintinlr!l'ltlS 10 or
pictures or Buddh.u and of the rrlnre Gauhuna.
Or the side or the door is 11 painting of Prim:e
Caulanul holding IIOfM lilies in his [eft Iwwl,
!lnd Rbove thi. are other good 1IJ,'ll.I'e dellignl.
On tbe ril:ht aide alto hu ocoen Il similar llgun:,
but not in IlUch iI good !ltnte of pre.et\At!on.
Aoo..-e the len. 1I'indo .. Iht-re nm.in. too. a
great mAny or DuddhL Ule
rigllt uue arc plump ftgul"lS of boy. and anmhf.r
VOUP of tU Duddhall.
The inside of the btm!.nda roof. both the Inner
portion and UIJIt projttting outside the pill..-
till bNrs a good dCAI or PIIlnting-lhe muai",
or lIowet"f. bitob and other de.igns.
Aleither end of the banlnda i.J 11 ('cll oont.a1ntng
some good burclid' seuJjituret deplt"ting _kd
imaaa 01 BuddhL One of theM! laUCf il placord
on n low pllltlorm abo"e the floor or the
by t .. o .tqlL TheaIJ eaninWJ 0( Buddha.
"'ere probably Q(lCUt.cd at R .lightly laler dRte.
The inllkie haD ;. about thirty_ven fC'Ct loag
by twmty-dghl reet wide, wjtb 11 flat edUng
t.,n rCl.-t high. tupf!Qrled in the c:entre OIl rour
mumus. TI,ese a>iumn'J are 01. very
early .t)'le, RIKllt is prob&ble UlDt Illis eave """
'"
MV Pilgrirntl&a le AjtlnlO nDd 1kl/111
onc of lhe. flm examples of the introduction of
"ilIars in U'r: bilUllllS or mOYlft5kry hnJl5.
No 1IOO1U't. h01'l'fwer. ho,'!, you muml tbe-
tMn you lite driven out The air imide ill
thick .. -jib (milea;t of arisil\jl fl"Ol1'l
or IIntnolf!rted by bat.s .nd
o .. -h. 1'h:lt roul odour is 011' WOM. f'Mmy or th&
artld. who cannot poalllly ronC('nu.le hit: mind
while t.vpying the iMidt' rLel'COct, r,'ClI
though lhe whole of the wide front or bihara
ene I1 iJ open. EH'ry quartcr of an hour
I luuI to drop my work IUId come into UlC\ rn"Sb
air to hrQthe. This;" tngic eflOl.IQ;h. in
&ome of the oUter e&.\'CII We Ii"lnell if 10 horrible
lhat. ont: neyu wanb to "etlture In.
Opez1ing into the haIJ or this "',-r: IlI'r ei,lht
three on the kJt. three 011 Ute right l1d t"'o
In b.ek wall, OIlC: on citbu wc of Ihe mWdle
11111.<1;11.1''', The Wlnctuary which opens directly
from Utc e.,c ill. ,oum About fift!.'Cll (ret
nU! ar Buddha is not placed agoilUt the
.all. but ,ta"d .. ata ollilatlet" rrom it. &0 that
tlM: could U!e new-cotnenl rigbt J1)!.md
it. or Ult' mania., irt.hcy "iahed. at ally hOUJ'('I)uld
t'lIcirdCl it In prayer. Buddh. here AU on
throne .... th b'o dam,ingIYoUn'rd deer 011 eithtr
side of thc round halo of die .Md, a.m two
lions bebind them. n'cre IU'e nu
'"
I
hilt. above are flying figures. hi front of this
imflge or n uildha ill 11 iMonutl!ul natural
ClI"'ing of 11 man kneelin, in IIdofll!ion ..nth an
o(fuing in hi$ hllDds: this probably "II!I the
pnrtmit of thO donor of CIIve.
Il ili nl()5l ""OI}(I.,rfu] that IDoo'ardt lhr
the lest my. 01' thr- aun CaU upon the face of
Buddha. <10 thllt. it iij lit ,,"ilh dh' ine cow)'.
1I1!,..J:i up 0Tl thl:: _11 and I('an:ely \iI;lI..le, on
the left aitl., of tilt' IIIIl1dunry, I, Rn aperture
opening into n !l'ret cdl._ pitch-dark --.
rmrlul and and unique UI I.he whole
or at AjlUlta.
''''
lGn T
1.0)0;0 bdore Ule rose I U5Cd tQ get up .1It1
mU the ..erunt., :rnd W'hilr he mn 10 the vil.lagt!
t o buy Dnd milk for bn:a.kriUl I would (eld!
wnter tom Ult" fitrenm 0011 collect ft"OOd (or a
OIT. Waltt hlld been bul MW the QIOQ
.oon W'"" coming over the lnnd. Md the> tiny
li tt le ri"tt Dflll'hoi'8 w .. gcttillfl' Bwinrr CVB)' d.y,
\o<!ing its crystal lr.n51lRrtl1(!}, in 11 dark nmddr
tOrTeflt, While my llen'anl eookcod the brtOf.Ml
I tompleted my tft.e.iru; by wintlinl( the
round my legs, \Vd! eight (I'clock, 11I"jlllt
wnmed Nllmylln to boil amd niter Ihe- driulr.ill.j:
watu, I to !!tart on the fh-e-mile .... 111: ttJoI
the:: f':Il'"".
My mQminr: IlfId c\"('ning dhersioo 10
try to dl5CIJvu fI shorur 1nl'S. the undu
lating lInol I'ery rough frl'QUnd to "nd tronl lhe
tal 'CS, .nd it "' ... not lOll;:' before t found 11 few
hll"l tmilil mlltle by tJK' !10ft hooll'S w wild
u t Ue IUld fllMN, which led l he", mnclt quicker
than lhe old hrisUn, .nd winding Plllh"
10 the- d .. rk, t'vil-wllcmna t'ne., hy the-
ut. prlroi t.mt" 1 alood the wlloledny ropyin.g
...
At. lIOOfl b"y or IIUIl wouW
""ith,, luneh bullet. on hi. ht'ad, ItltlkingllustCl'l!d,
"nd killing his tongue out. 01 his mnuth to .how
how lired thc 10"1 'R1Ilk from tile: hlld
madc him, Ahno.t Cl"Ct)' r1l1.y on opening Ute
bpket. J fOllnd Ual 1J\0l'C: thau hAlt my food had
gonfl; SOttlctimts only. fcw little bones wcre
Iyins in the grill')'. It WIl$ no j!'OOl! P)"jog any-
thing to the man, 11., Ule: IIlIJ"wer ",I_y. W1I.5:
.. It hu fa11c1t 011." Pad.loek or no padlocll:. the
road1.Iearu always had his .hue. In deflNlir
I I18ked Narayo.n to bridl my lunc:h to the an ...
bullhc result W/I..I that. the poor man had no tlmo
to prep8MIIIl cI' enin.ll mml formeln UW!liungait)w"
TItc: tho."kidhat$, GI" earet.akml of the eal"a,
who came lWer)' duy from the ,illage of Aj.nta,
used to leavl! the awes I'el")' early. long before:
This puW! mc, until tlley adliJcd UK'
to leavc with them. tIIyina thllt on SlCVenU oc:c:a.
lion, ligen had tol'OlSt'd cI'en .t
twilight. J did not we much notice of this.
but worked until it .,.. dark.
By tbM time. I had made: otiC: or two ool'i"" of
the I'roccxs and _ tracings from the .... 11 ..
and wu. 110'" copying. I.tp piecle at pa.inlinr
whieb rc:prac:nted the birth 0{ Buddha on the
len . '.U 01 cave t.
One cI'enina;. jUJt a.s the ,tin wa.s IC:tting. I
, ..
I . 'as ..... pped in a IOrl of artistie ecs...."
intera:tI in the wonderful old picture., ij'fml
in the atmOiSphere treated by the ancient Budd
hista .... ho founded their monasteries and per-
formed their religionl worbon Ulia; extraordinary
&ite. But poor N'llTayan began to thange, Ue
was gett..ing tired of living alone. He hanll)'
lallu:d M .milett During the whole woell, he
looked rOM\'an:l to the bu.aar day at Vakod, aDd
wben it came he unilM, put on his dean turban
Ilnd best dothet. took the money and ,l&rted off
,'ery early. At night he returned "'it.h .lIttJe Iq:
of mutton, riee. lentils and rew vqfdabltf..
onioN Ilnd ocea.&ionally poutoes, IWI we CfI'
joyed ourael ... es the same nigbt and next dJoy
thoroughly; the mea.t could not be kept aftft'
'bac
Naa,.au looked 80 aod, IlOO lOOn 1 ra.ilc:d to
make bim .mile, and he bepn to ask me: .. s.tLib,
when IhalI we HnWI hr:re! llow Joog will your
work take f Aren't we going home 1UOIl'"
ure w.., belmlng "ery Jondy .nd dlffieult
(M him. One day he took money, went to UIC'
ben
ar
, &lid did not eorne. baek to the tavta ror
three day ...... hOe I .t&tved on barley wat.er.
When he did arri ... e be: was iD a bad .tatb-no
clothe., no lurll&Q, DO rood, DO moTley I I wu
horrified to Dnd him like thi!. ne .aid vtry
'"
quiel.ly, bowing his head: "Everything It1l,1
5tolOl from me I" H ... no good trOldin, bim.
for hr might have "In aWIlY (rom IlII'! altoaclher.
1'hcn he preuro me to let us go wk 10 the bllU-
IjRlnw III the \mpR'! of FlU'dallut now that the
moI\!IOOJl wu o,'er, Finally he and
,.-e moved b.ck IhfT!: again.
tbe heu.\"y dowopoW" of rain had IIlrno8t
come to AA end. and the tun IJ.eWUl 1(1 .thine
and IlJ bot. lit TIle otolil, .. -.nu
vapour n:>IiiC from the nrth and there t'nsUC'(l IIn
nnhealUIY 5e11SGn. The ro.d waa icntle'-dCll:p in
day flml Inud. Till" htaJlll of rubbilh flJIII cow-
dung around the h\JtlSl!S and in Lilt
mtr bec:ume lhil:k and muddy. nnally ehokra
hmu out IlU roumJ the \i1laga and, lit Wit. in
. 'IHllapur iwlr.
Onc morning, ane .. breIlldalll, as I ..-as Iflaving
Cor my day'. "'ork at the eaves. Nurn)-.n c:.>UC' to
me, aying: .. Sahib, lhue u dlok-l'Il In the
vUJage." I llrklly Htjl)ined hIm n()t to O
and once l non' emphuilc:d my cwdcn I hat he
"''' on no account to Deglecl lhe boihns and
of the "'IW.
That night when I retumm from my \la1'_
work. J round to my IImlW!nltnt .. ,..,.J.
IJDI'. 'Du: t.th "-lIter "-M IIOt. tht drin\Usqr
,..atet- in the filter "u rull, the IJUpper ... pn-

JO
MU PilpimnU-" to .ljllnta Iflld 81ll"
pttn:d. with home-made rolls and ICOOts, and
not only specilll chops, bul al50 pmt ... run or
pudding whh cream IInd custard. Ih'IVing CfI
JOYlxl this UIl6:pected <.'OIllfort. I bcelIrnll aware
or:Sllnlyan ho\'Cring IltrwlLuly in tht bIIdrgroulld.
Il ... WaJI e\'idOltJy , .... ry UlIl'asy noout IlOmelhin,.
but he could 1Iat. milk ... lip his mind to .speak.
At Wl: .. SaJlib," he wd in a "cry wtltlt: voke,
I. be ,t(!Od behind ... 1 dOIl't red well."
11 )'1UlpicioN were roUlCd.
There hrut becm or clloler-a in the viJlnge.
flml I had forbidden hint tv RO ncnr It. lIt h..:1
lIIe I I felt urle&5)' m)'cl(left ht IIIlgbt
be Sickening of that dread ne "'111 crI'-
t.ainly very iu. lIe brought bit bllllket 1110.1
wrappinJ hiulklC in iu rolda:, lay down on Uoc
pound by my lide. 1 opened my medicine
tor oow I relt lurn it Will I'bolera, _lid pre him &.
11,* of th ... remtdy I hnd brought with mc. nut
aIM. it WiUI too IIl1.e. lIe was pasl human \lid.
yet I .UuttB1ed I\nd tought tor hu life .11 tMt
night lIlune in the bung_Inw. lie rJBnt ver)'
",pKjly. became unoonKiow.. and uthe morniDg
fla'll'Uet! he: IINitd y.
I W1IS Icn alone witJ, the oorp5C orth;, poor mall.
a.nd not eouJ ,..OUkI come _. (Of the vet)'
won! cliokra wu enou,b to IlIfIh- the ,.il.J,agert
Dee the place. llut it was essential that he
' 00
I'IlII St'rt'Q"f. lhuUi
,hould bt. buried dcccnUy and with the: ldnd ht:lp
of U,e I'ale! Sahib of FanlApur. together 1I'ith
lI'hoIc:5Aie bribery and money for drinks. 1 pre-
".iled 011 1I(l"1!I1ll of the IUlutct of the ,'illaJ!ers to
dig .. p"e. Wl'fIpped in dean white mUflin
"nil hb blanket. we IlLid him to I't!Il in lhe ahadow
uf lhe great roeb near lhe uml}' hanks of the
Unghora rher.
111111 en'nin; lIU/11ed to me too te:rnllle, TIle
hlood,w .'In All usual went down bc-yond lhe
llctp-blue Rindh),. range, elUting ioftg. "loomy
mado ..... The air ..... lI.iJllni.
dl'{)W5}' Ind .till. I felt.ad and loady.
J came baek to U,e bungalow and rcalii!OO that
ndthu food, water oot U,e place ..... ufe
to touch. The ume nlgbt 1 'VIt .way Cor a feW'
days' changoe of &.if to my friend'., l>rof_
J, n, llalu lit Nagpur. inknding to bring t.ek
IJefVnnl with me. l tnl1y clime. but .. 6OClI'I u
Wey hca"l th/l)' would have to.ay in tho Jungle
IIU!)' did nol"'ish to ll!nlain. One of the )'out1ger
agreed. however. but I did not employ
him kit be Ihoukl make the urnc mWake u
Xarayan, too mUM to the village fur
COInpallioo8bip and drink IUId tbcft.by cakhinl
the c&e.dly di!Jeuel of eholena Of pI.gue.
Then in NIlJPW' one afk1noon. whik I ...
IIII10kina a""ay iD AD armehair and thinking about.
'"
My Pilgrim.agn 10 AjoJlJJJ IJnd Bah
rduming to the caVe&. thue apptOKhed tall
old nl/tn with. big grey moustaebe, dreued in
elean white ('Oal, turbfln and trousers. who pve
me a .. lute and held out. a bundle or old letlt:ra.
These testimonials showed that he had
nun)' ot the high. oIIlcial. JllId hnt! bo!en head oook
to the Chief Commimolk'r or Nftgpu1.
Tht'fl he said, .. I Am too old, nobod)' gi\'e5 me
1'I'orit. Sahib, give me!JO(l'le bahhish." I rather
liked his look and Upl,ulltd all .bout m)'lOjoum
in Uu: jnngle. of AjlUlta, Itnd .. ked him whether
be would like to eome to cook (or Ple 011 , 'err good
pay. He: Mid umrin.g me; .. Yes, .iI'.
I know all ftbout thote jungte plKef!tl; I ,bAll
look aft"r you like a ralher."
So _ apU\ I rdllmcd to bungalow.
eheerlul .t b.ving $eCUJetI 511"h '" treasure
and thilwng th.t old Dhandu would &ee to my
ph".aJ nerds .od I .hould \It able to devote
mysdl entirdy to work h.l the 1:11.\-_
By this time the bl\nplow had PfOllel'ly
.. 'Ubcd and naade habitable. No ..... with rcne,.-cd
vigouT I beau to copy fracOCll in1he eaves.
}o'OI' day or t.wo Dh.andu wcll: bul
little ... hlIo began to nea1ed 01'$1 (WIe
thllllf another. Ile appean:d to Orld t be
lilnation '- aa,-ble than he had bopc:c.l.
CMlmblin;' at me, be uid: ,. Xo .... tu. no.allOt-
pant, no 1.'OIll. no gas. no nothing here." n ow
WM it. likely that he could produee a dinna In
such " I nis mnnner changed ralHdly rrom
bIwI to wors.e ; he glt;w mOJ'C Md more lullcn:
At lut he (orgot to flnln'l"er my call: in raet en!!
brHkt'a.st WlUI impossible w get.
I re gatheml round him in the kitchen a gt'OUl'
of yot.tng villalfCni and bought tJlt1l1 eigflrrl.tG.
.ll'lIve them my food and beRM w sdi my Wnl/"'l
In n'wm for t heir help while he lay all UlC! ti me
in 11 roe. imide the ltildsen. \\llClK':\'a I eaJkod
hi! RIll A "iIIagtl man w me to lII1y: .. n e <:an't
he tm.. rheumatislII aU over his body."
One dlly I wtnt 10 Me whether thit laIe .....
buc. AppriKd (If my anhal he prtlendtd to be'
III of cholcl'll, took a moothIul of wilier bd'Of't I
(.'!lItre<! the kitt'atl1 and \'om.it td in front 01' me
Aa .woo ... I apptare!1. lI&yirl,ll: .. S&hib, I am
dying: do 1,lease kflcl me homc (rom UrisJunglt:. "
t rtlt torry and to ..... e a 1Nl"
Ukl' him '-lId. lhinkinJ: he WAS lIIQU hindrance than
help 10 my work, 1 decided w 11111 up 'll'ilh him no
Joolltr; Illul 110 I pflid bb WRP ... Id he toot a
hut)' deplltun'. r.unrorlAbl)' _tcd in a buJlfIr'k
",,-
I went to l 'a.lel !ialoib at Fardaflur. He bad
been kind to me an Jc\'cral ronna ocou.kmI. and
h .. it was who hllll round nl<!n to bury paDf N .... -
, ..
MII Pilgri1Hlll!U ID "-jon/a ond Bag"
ran. Hy his inftucnce, but with great dimculty. I
at last to get It _
namC'd Uuddhu }liya ... fOQk !'mm tht "iIIage or
Ajant-.. III 1ea..1 he calJC'd him.ltlr a cook, though
he knew luutil}' Mything about hi, jab. Ho'"
evtr, 1 eloted ,,-itlt hiol far A lft>O'l waae and he
Ita)'ffl with nlt to the end.
Once, hO"'cver, J nArrowly eseallCd 1000illg bim.
T returned hungrier than usual to find A meal of
only rice anti lentils nuty and hard,
to ('at, UII'Ough not bein, boiled properly. hi
my allnoY'ltl<"e I erilled him a pi, .... hleb ullR't hinl
r.omidc:rn.lJl)T. .. Sahib." hc Aid ... tAkc oft )'OOT
tJlOe5 IUld beat. me, but do not call nlC a pig."
I r<:plled: .. tr )'(lU do not boil,ny food properly
I ,hAil eall yCIU a pig," and thereafu:or ht worked
well.
'I'hen by tact and a little preaent of money 1
rnoUified Itim, IUld A littlc later lugpted that al
he had to bring my food to lhe eaves every day,
Ictwlng IIInl(Mt no lime to cook an c"coilli
_ IIhouHI InhAbit the elWC'I and .to AIln our
t.cdlnul and WIOOfllrortllhlc joumt'y 10 and froll!
the .idt uf lbc dill.
Wt tm.r<:rore lOt bold of .alile' rMn And a buI
Itw:-k cart rrom the ,iIIllF, IUId <'AlTyin, our
lIelonl.oinln once apio ,,'t all mo,td on to t1lf
nI, ... for a '"ay stay
...
CJTA ''TER NINf:
I MOVE TU.E
I !\l UW Ih"td alld Ilept in the bnnnda oC cave T,
Itnd Buddbu )lIy. c:ooIcf for me outlidc. 10 that
neither' lmokJ:. liar fin: l'Ould hllnn the waUs or
ceilings. We 'hut entered upon life of intefat
and excitement whkh la,,:tcd tor many months.
In the rourk of ('r'ni.Une. various other
which raIl iulo the ""'md group or six, and N'e
numbered 14, n, 16, 17, 18, Ill, were excavsUd
(/Il, the Idt sitle of the cliff. nleS(: exc.V.WII!I
t'lIl.cndtd in point 01 time from about the iJirth fJr
Christ to the firth or sixth ecntury ..0., III "I.jeh
date they properly fiuished: lhe nn:hi
tcctul'II.l design. and inKfipllonl pro\'e thcit c1ak'
lo be: much law tJlIllI lhl' fim gnlup 01 CIIVes.
Hij:b up in the rork. alrOOJl difl:rlly m'u eave.-
1 il ot lhe tlr.;t ,",up, Is. 1AfJj1!: unfinished bibnta,
Numlx!r I I . whid, & appl"OlU'Md by .teep
IUcC:lIt rrom bihnlll n,is cave ha. no JMlnt.
intr or ac:ulptun:, and probably ...... l!Xea\'aled
IiQIlItll'I.c:n: ahuout 100 A.D. The b.nnda is or
rather \- .. t .. it meuUfC';l about
reet by devm ftd. wide and rune rttt
hi" ... IUId w...Kix "'Iun: pillan plaillly
'"
Wc do not Irno .. lhe r'eII11"\!:II.5QQ why the h.ll wu
llC'Va ..w the: front .u.le OIIly wall Pu-
lially cut out bout twdvefw. bllt "'t may coo-
jtct.Ul\" that thi5 WlIS prolWlbly duo! to tht lofl.l'r
t'!uu.rler of the rocl:, which rcnden:d it tDOn:!
liable to CflU.'k. .\t each end of the bal'llndI. are
nnfinbhcd JU!;'!;t-clwnbers whil'h ):Ive c:ooI ,heller.
lkI;ldra these neal c:t'1I1ru.1 door And two
window. on either tidc wcre cut.
on the len of bih ..... I ., much Ioll'er
dawn ,n the {'lia, is. small plain bill .... eavc, IS.
In the .... Ioy _, 11 tom::nt !'mm .hn'"e poun
,lown,lIOITIt:tinlClf making In'poI!lihk. Pr0-
bably (or lhl' _ reasoa the pitillfll of f:a\'C
I"H! broken ...... y. The barand. iJ: thirty reel
louR'. sI.z ftet wide Ilnd .buu.l Un reeL high, tlfld
U'!"fe 111 oat' <:('11 III each end. On dlllU ,itk oC
the door ..... ) .re wonderf'ully good sculptures.nd
low rtlid.. The lu,l! is lIirllOllt thirtyrour feel
aqUtlfC IInd len reet. high. without At
cad, 'lda fUllr cdh. J ust OIlJ1Oliitc the mnin
e-ntrallee ill .JIlnctwuy. a"d on tbr "',nue is a
.tone:- 0( lJuddhll. wllleh "'IUI cllrvM out
from 1lI{' .IQIld roc:k. probably a IitLle IlIkr th.n
the .,.Vt. It .. Oil!! of tln: ftl'llt Mtalnj,I(':I of till!
p&aci:llj; of an Ima.,. ol Outldl .. in ffiOIUlMttt)'
baU: and the: ... oflhe imagot may be UlUn)t(\ to
bel about 2<lO D. E\'identl)" this ..-u once
'"
fully eovered with paintingl' ror t nwt8 sUII
remain on the ('Cilin"
On the len, agn.in, i. CII\"C UI, one of the mOll
important of UOOdhitt India iD
till. group, Even t.o-dl\y, lIS one
thi, cave alld iu neighllour. 17, from !.he b0t.-
tom of the nwille, olle ealehes a glimpse of
the aoldelln:d
within. Qlle tlUllt llilll"t'
the n_t astonishing pailltillll'l ill Ule wOC'ld rQl"
&uea.rlyat. dau:: as the &eeollll or thin! ttnlury A,D,
The atyle of lU"dlitec:ture. CIIrvina and pa.lntirqr
i3 Kraee1uJ Ilml elegant, These ('Il\'t:'IIllre .it\Ultel.i
at a slighlly greater heiJ!ht above Iiottom of
the ""me than the eAves of the tl",t period, 1l
ill inlere<lting to obscTve how cleverly w arc!li-
tect.s 01 dllYS rollowed lhe I'ein or ll,e rod:
when: the texture WNO mOlit.ull.able {aruCAI,.tion.
The IlIrge l)II.nulCl. of CAve HI i. ai:ctytlle
feet 10nJ; IIlId lWl!h'e ftt'l wide, Sill
gotal eohlmns wiU, bratket columns 5Upport the
roof, The malll (ntnlllct: \oiUI b 'o "11111010' Ofl
each .we., ..ud here tht: wall d ea""ed "jth ri,'er
goddl'Yl't. !Jilt the Iw.intinlo" have pc'fUhtd,
Olk: edI lrad. from each cl baranda.
The cciliug of' t.1Il!! CAI'C I. omammted
with tauUlu\ f*inUtlf great pan or whidt
has unfortUlatdy been destroyed.
lligh UI' in the corner at the Idt end of the
'"
My to "jan/,.. /fnd IIfl&1a
baranda i. aD iIlIcriptiOIl of a great many lines,
mutu.ted by the weather. The (ull meaniDgoC
the- iMcriplion b.u nol bitherto been dccipltcred.
but one ean roughly make out the meaning of
the openine 5mt.c:nee: .. A king 5ftlutCl nr.l the
renowned Buddha, who rerlloved the intense fire
or misery from this world." And then it goes on
to mention names of many otber kings and 0(
their dwellings.
The IIall i9 about sixty.n,e reet 1V]\lIlre and
flrteen fa-I high. which higher thAn UIQ$C or
Ihr flrrt JTUUp. litre lIS many AI twenty od,,
JOfIal IUpptJrt the (lCiling. and their ,ides
"ere once painted with 01' Hl)Wen IUId
otlle!' dClilftl$. The eeilina hi tm'Jil'COU'"Y CIlf\aI.
r'eprellmling beama and rufters. lhe hillher UIds
I'Icing IIIPPOrtro b)' braekell in lhe ,b$pe of
1,lump Alld almost dwarflike boys. Thi. is
1W('IIIl.u to. "nd common in. the Ajont4 ICUlptWT
BIltl l)Binllng. Wherever tbe Artist fOlUld a
duuu;. 'C: II<' introduced such figul'Cll. Six ceIh:
fl'Oltl eGcll lide 0( the intf'rior .hall and b 'o
afT in the bad.:: wall. Dimctly beyond the mail>
mtnJlC(' in the Ihrine thl.'rf' Is _ted Alnue
mtue of BIM.ldha on stone throne Ith both
.trw.:hcd dcnmW1l.rd3 and tbe Moo. raised
In tht' pc.ili<m. Ju..t ... In bilUlra:O;o. It
of the n...t poop. 10 hen:' at.> narrow I.-gc'
13'
I III wt iJltl) lhe Cfft'Q
cnrift'laI tho rrnt intDge to enable lilt. pilgrims
UI' pMU I.() U. with devotion rouoo the
This .. -us, no doubt. retiden rOl'
... ne of tho big Sangha.
In the hllll. pat. rollny of pUnt-
illl: .tlll on the 111. But lllq' wen:
roolbhly vllrllilihed by Britillh ofJleials. lInd
u,

no.., IlImod. ruined. 110 that one can hardly make
Ulftll GilL On Itn. wLlI In the hall it woo.
derful painting of dying- prinCOl:1" whidJ can
hardly be surpassed in the hilotory of the world'.
art and (rI the "me w.J1 thttt art' many other
very JfOOd paintinp-for in..taneco, IJ uflJha "llh
hi. mendicant't wm, in 11 bilt"m, SUI"-
rounll ed by kinp IInd rich ptople, who kneel and
pny him f'e\'uet'lCc. At,'lIiu, 011 the '-ck wall. ill.
very la""" lttfte of elephant.. ridden by kingI
IUTIOlIg .tttndllnb with dnullt nnd Inllsical in-
strument.., IUld IOIillets with long Wue e\1I"\'f(\
.... onIJ. In a.nother _ne Buddha l)eha is
_ted on .. throne:. .. I(fftlt of
Cl'l)1m.I'd prin<"CS and ot.bc-r pc!Oplc. On the rigilt
several mi,e!' inWt:!ting rrom lhe
legend or Buddha, suell ... Saint A$ita-muni with
the lnrnnl Buddha in his nrnu and lap. and he it
agaln )'OIlU; SidhartllA .t sehool
drawl"", lIle bow and ltaming i llOfUl. It hreab
011.'. btfI rt to Iiet ther!C mnrvdlou, pielu-ret
ruiDtd lbrnllgh the IIpplicRtion of' nrnbh by
I.houl!htle511 who lWlle to oup)' Utem.
One ennlnl: number or .preamt
In rront or tlle ftWr ,..1",", 1 ..... t1welling. in
-..cll of t11m" wild berries which we nU .. kul,"
The)' ILf(I much like AOur cl=ries with a little
hard.lone
'"
.. n
.. - ... --.
I
1 \Vllnl.ed to gel. rid of these uninvited guesb
(or (tar lest. thty ,hoIdd try to spend the l'lighL
in my al\'e. Ilml 80 to make them move on I
I.hrew few &tones. They beg"" to .Iip oil, but
IIQIJIe dUllg to the t'fteIJ or jumpo.'tl fmm braneh
to hran<:h. To make quite I>'Uk 01 gelting rid or
them I rollowed with 11 rod In my hand. broken
rrom 11 branch. Suddenly IIOmt' or the monkey,
disappeared IU if by n ~ . I innmignttd _lid
found U\ey had irO"c 1101'1'11 Klmc old stone nep.
to.ants the .ttelm. in the jungle. of t'OW'St'.
~ -,-r

,
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,
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\

MU to Aj(lJlI4 "'Id
thCOfe are no 1'0('uI.$ and one nevc-r 1mo\1ll to what
one is eonllng.
I.n (rollt of' eave 16 1 (oulld myscl( in a IlOl1
or brokt:n room. By its tidt .. a little watering.
place like D .mall l :mk or well, Ulere was
_till ,.-nter, Rnd t.bere .... u ill the dlambtt ..
damRl.'ed statue oC a Make king. scaled nfi'Oll the
eoib of thl' 'nnkl'. whO&!.' Ihoe like R CIInopy,
lhe king" crown.
I descended the 8l.eps. All I could see abo,'C
4nd in front orme W'lLfo thejllngle IlIld trees. Some
or the monkeys were sitting on top or these tree<.
at me .. J "ent down find dowll towlU\b
U\e titlk: ttffam at the bottom. SUlIdmly J
eame to what looknl like two "ery huge lrieca
olrodt, but Weft: two lat;e deplumts of dark
.tone, Il.!mo6t life-$W:. I nlCOQ:uiM:d them at
once. They"l'l'Ul! the two famulI. elephants
the great ancient Iitairway leading to the Budd-
hist. monastery, in a book O\'er ..
thou.sand yeanr old, written by onc of tha gTtlll
Chin_ pilf,orima of UItl 5i:cth century A.O.
Nm tu o;.we \0 is cave 17, another "cry fulll
bihAl"ll or the Xn!l IJI'OUp ot COIl'et. It looks
as it it might be a twill ene or 10, t<)r in sbc,
t:denor atcl!lketufalappea'"'ll!ee and tbe import.
&lie!! of iu et paintillgs it b '-Cl')' similar .
\J one .ppro.eht!!!: this !:QU' onc can KC (ar on
I .1/,,", ink! lite CffCt#
throu;:h the trees the glo .. ing and golden
colours or its rrescoes. The date of it. C:XCllova
lion cannot be mote than fifty yUU'll Iatu, or it
might. be even the aRm!! nge.
1berc is a long irulCriplion on the Ieft.hand top
of the bArnoda Ollloide. or about twenty.nine
lines. in eII rly ,erse. It would R01l
rrom this iDlCriptJoo, nnd tllAt in ea"e IG, that
both I!8VeII mu.t. bIlve been built. during or !lOOn
afl.et tile Iirttimr: tJl tlle great GIIl'tn I'mptn.lJ',
aboul3'T.5 to 413 A.D. At the right flUllhrre b a
.maIl hole in the floor ICOlding to a ftne c:istem
a1"ay' nlled with water, fonnerly USI'd by
monks as drinking .... tu: it eall only be ap-
proacbcd up Right of .teps brc.,..c.-m this e&,'e
.nd 10, No dO\lllt in olelm da)'l' thiJ hole, ror
Mlety ....., rovacd o\er by wooden lid, Id
aID be Ren by the IedV eul i,aide the aperturr
on which Ule lid \lsed to 1'e'It..
There are t-.ro eelb in the barand.. ,\t the
len end O\u the cell tlll're is a elrculu pieee of
painting divk:led into eight "'pfro
Ruling the 8uddhirl. _hed of liCe. hM
betn much injured by the visitOlt. who attempted
to remo,'", parb of tbe paintings rrom the wall.
The hilI'''' been ftIled with human
flrutra. varlow:ly eml)loycd. men, wom ... n .. am
,'"
My Pi/triTII6gU to alld BagA
mals. ulenJi1$. buildi. J;trect.s., nIl representing
the cirele of existence.
As regards than two-thirds of the. lo_er
part oflhe bftnInda. no "estigel or(11!Ima remain.
bUl on the upper pntl of the iMck _1111 is a good
de.! or )Wlinling in tngmenr.. Over the CftItral
door .. a Ic'"ely row of eight Buddhas, _ted

c"*"lemJtd in different mood" the hands liP"
lifted In the: .et of Of bcnt.dirli(Hl,
"ilh l'Oy.u erown. Below Oil the lintel il
lO'ics or eight small pMnel detligns in comparl
mmbl colltaining two figmu eacil, IO\'enI offering
Qowel'll .nd drink to UIle IUlothcr. IOCIlC Jlgures
podnled wiLh fllirloo .omewith dark
Above tbe door into the luUI in ou. ea,'e 17
are two "Cl")' .ttr.ctiye female figuret.
but all the lI)lI1Ct: in Ull' ca'"d wa. onC(' mOl:t
dabQntdy euvem1 .... ith painlinp. The pUlan:
...

~ :.:. .;;;;;::
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of the bar&nda are rhtin bnw-kct npitals.
hut UIe 8", mo", dl'glUlt thAn IIlJ\4I1I.
To the Idt of the barandll ill a group of UU'eC'
fairies, aC<lOmPllnitd by " mllle flQllting
through the air in ll\e night. Uehind Ule Ilgul"Cl
ut t.hid white cloutb, Such flying figures an!'
,'cry ",sually found in pain in lJuddhil.t sculrturl!!l'
IUld in the PlliJtl.lngs of this age. The whole
oomJlOllition i'I pr:rfe<:L In Itli purity of oullinc
IUId llle of ita J(:muping it is of UIC!
flnCllIUId most Casein.Ung or the . nutllel' paint-
ings at Ajanta. nIt easy urward motion dlh!!
,.'ho1e grour is r'Cndenxl in 11 manner lhllt could
not easily IJe,t1rJlIISSCd.
To the riSht of lhe blltllnda ... ,,11. jll$l on top of
the window is Uit' Kt:ne in which Buddha',
('QU5in. Ikbru..latta, trm.: to gel DuddlUl dditroyed
by an enraged dt-plulllt. bul the tffiltUn!'
Irmerlt with rcnI'CDte at BuddhA'" fee.L The
is very beautif"Jly adorned with ehllrrnioj:
dcsignJ In good condition, On the " 'hole
envecontajn. mon: Ilaint.ings thun any otJ\cr ea,-e,
in spile of the (act that e'"CII here Lhere ha- lM!Cn
mueh wiH'ul deslruetiOfl attl\c handi oC ElllOJICIIn
visitors.
The hall is cntered by a central door. raM'-
bling that in 16, and hy duom. It
rllrlbcr l4rhtcd by Lwo windoww. ThlJ apaltmt"lIt
,
'"

My Pilgrimagu to Aj(l1lia rid Bag"
is sixty.thml' fm wide by lixtyt .... o fcct 1000g
and thirtem ill. roof being $Upported by
twenty ClctaROnaI pillars, all plain, ueel,t the two
in middle ot the rront and bft<,k rowlJ, which
have III1l1ate .barta (lIIrtJy octllgona' and
partly mteen .. ided. eQ\'ertd with paintin".r.,.
The IUIte-chllmber is small. with two fiP"" in
front. but the ahrinc is eightec.on feet .... by
twenty reet deep, IlItd in front of lht great
t.here .Lnnd (YIl the noor. two figuf'l'S ant:
holtling mmdkftnt'. 1>01\'1, the other damaged.
There are also two nttmru.nb on each $irle of the
Buddha "nd loro fan.burv1. The hllll tontains
.ixtl'nl eelk. Tht' whole interior is t.i nlilar to that
of Number 16. Here .;rain the roof 11'0"
wooden and till' pilb" . 'hich .up-
port it hne fat boys as bl'&('kei .
In the:' h.lI. on tbe waU of the Id't. on the
kn cond (of the back wall, ami cvtry .... hl!te. InallY
wnntlerl'ul INlintillga are still in existence. in spite
or being much ruined will! smoke. tlirt and ,'.r-
nilh. OVCl' sixty distinct kenCl or
painting In this <:aVlIl1.
On lhe middle of the right Wall lJ. largc and
manclloua IWllting. It the It'p of
the IaDdm, d King Bijaya on Ceylon. and hb
CXlDque.t of the idand.
in the left..hand oomer a pfOClellioo 01 elephallb:
.. ,



' ... "
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,
,
is nuhi"!: through lbe ptc'; the CII"lIlry and "'"r
elephant. at'C cros.sing the Indian Ocean in boab;
and on the shore ue the demon&, gillnt nalh'l"I
of Ceykm. prc,-mting their landing. It i.
narrnlive composition. but the whole !llbject is
lokl in one picture.
In the upper pnrt appears the .hite ttor.e, sig-
niIying thnt the killg hu no .... c:on11llcrcri Ult' whole
Innd. From very andent t.ima It was the eustom
thAt before the coronation ol 11 great kiDg took
place 11 riderleu while horse tho..lld be let. Jooee
0\'0' the rountry. t ollowed by hundreds oholrliers.
and if "11)' other king to cIDal lcnge the
king'. riJ!bt of and objected to the
puaing or the honoe through hi, land. he tried to
CIIpture the hol'll(:. But if l11e horse returned un-
dl&llwgtd, it pfO\' ed the Icing 10 be tllt acknow-
ledged nderat the land, alld he ,..as then crowned.
ID U.it painting the uncllatlcnged horse has
tome back and Ioob proudly toward the:' king.
wbile the solillert bow, The CO!'OMtion "taking
pI.ace in the righl-hand ewncr, _here b: t he king
runoundcd by bt$utitul dancing girls and musi
cians, Ilnd t he pn.rijat.n. 00_ ate rlllling from
abo\'t as a blstina from the godt in heaveo.
Although thY paintiog RpitRlltt 10 maDJ
iltents. they have been grouped t.ogetller t.o foml
one ,,",ell' Ilictult'.
'"
My Pilgrima:tf IQ Ajonla and Bag/!
The .Ianling the 'nwing Oap, the tor-
'1vd lean of the clcphant-ridt'l"l and the CU",M
he.dt and huddled In,"lui of the all
exprea the emotion of great movemenL The
flght out.fide the eityilldivided from lhetriumphal
entry and the eoronation by a su.ggestion 01 I
nampart. The flowers fmm heaven fall only on
the inneJ' side of the rampart. ' 11e 011'1 or the
boat 1In:: dilTCled oTle way only. in order to
empha!iizc the great speed .t whioh the boat is
being driven thl'ougb the .... ter_ 00 the Idl
of the Ihrine door in this eave 17 is Mothtr
of pre-eminent bee.llty .nd grandeur.
The .. Ibjert of the eompC:lIjtion to be
the rdum at Buddha .ner his enliJhtenmcut.
to his ... ire UJd son. nabula. [fis JIorilled
Jlgure towt'l"l colt I agaiDl't a nicht .k)". and lib
leet. rest. on " white lotus on a deep (ndiao red
ground. I n bis right hand is begging bo ... 1 and
his left hand uplifh hill yellow robe. O\'(r rum
an angel holds. ('8nopy of flowers, and parijalf(
tlO1I'('I'I obo rail upon him from helyen, wbile ilis
... ire and child on. balcony of the house, look up
in Itdontion.
This painting mU51 be one of the IIl(I5l. rm.jCltic
and tender in the wodd, Ilhowm, intense laYe
and 'pirituaJ ck\-otion. and to many wiU be a
","elaUuo or the heightl to which Indian ut hM
,<8
... _ .... _Jo-_

'''' .... ' .. "',', ...
1
.It.inc:d. Like many other!, it MoWl wh.t
masters of Rnimat4!d oompgition nod complex
movement were painters who worked ill
the early ccnluriC$.
There .re hllndredJ of painted ac:w:net in el'cry
part. of this monastery haU nd they are of great
internt. Oue of , ,)et'illl depict ... 11 hunt
of lions. bl.ck buck, Ilod ",lephaDU. The
b vivid, IWI the tofiaJ,'e and totut ICII.\'eI! are
painted with .. rich gr:n. The wholo: posinR
nlld groupi ng hM an rut of modernity.
animals. hot1C8. eJephanu .lop. &I"I! all
weU-drum. the mllUivt roIoun: and contoul'l
p.inted with .oI.id brush atrokt$.
Then oomea I:I\.\'C 18. which .. reeJly no Inore
than .. Jloreh, just o..u nink-en red by .lxxl!
nine (eet, .nd 11115 two pilM. Apparently it
was inundtd (or .. p .... p to the next cave,
10, and possibly to cover Il water ci5ten!. down
below. It. was UCI&Vllted &bout the 5UOe time
u H.
At UlaL d.!lle hurllln:ili of monks had g"lhCl"C'(1
togclilu: nnd. with their morning and evcni,,
prayer, nladetbepgeasnob:y ... buur. They
rlded Illlothel'ehaitya a loe (or their wortilip &lId
SIt made the temple flOW known as Number IQtn
IM:rve all the thinl duutYII; it iI mud! ....... ner
tlWl t"a"C 10. IlnJ aimOllt !J1,c. ... me aize .. u..
'"
()f the fi rst group. So 19 W/I.III exCIU'.tcd, the cmly
chaitya eave in the .eeond gt<lup.
II i. abollt t"ll'enty.f<lUr feet wide by (ol'lysJ<t
fffi. long by twentyfour feet hi;h. and it i ~
daboratdy CllrTed with xulptura /l.11d ama-
mental liecomti ve design.'I. both inside and out.
and they remain as distinct at
the present dill A$ when ~
wue fusl OI'rought. There is
OI1ly onc cnlnlncc 10 this C&"I"e.
Tbe whole of the eompoli-
lion of thiA awe is very pleas-
ing. and it hu _redy luRertd
ut nil f !'(llD the hand of HI11I.'.
TIle decorative e&r\-ing in (fOnt
iA very elAbomte, and 00fI5;Sll! of
"-UI o. c.. ... Ig Duddm.., and additional i.t:nages
artcrwardt carved on the
r&\,lIdc. Jo'n;)m the rarade or this thni lfa temple
projer:u a bokI and mrerlllly C8r'Vfd llQf1\icr.
broUn only at the left cnd by t ~ fAll or a I,tf," r
mASt of rock. In front hu ~ u an cnclll&l!d
eourt. thlrty-thR.e red. ";de by thirty fort
deep. but the left. side or It has nculy dif-
IIppeartd_
On tN: ",ht or the m.ain entratl4.'e by the porc:b
ita t....rciieheu.!ptW'C of a eoIOAilI Buddha, whO
!\M tctumtd ho:mKo after his Enli&btenmml .
' 00
" .-..............
.......... ~ , ..........

, ~ ' ... ",oo ".1'"
.................. --

< VOt.'L 1" .... ' . ' ~
< ... "
lIis .,...jre is lining r()f1l'Al'(i her .on R.eJllda to
plMe a1rm in hit: Callu ... OOwl.
In tJu:! next ('()(\"Ip!lrtmcnt hI' standing in
rMllt af " .lull" richly nmamt:ntcd and Inlr-
mounted hy the triple umbrella. Abo,!.'. on Ihe
upper comer. he is reprt'.5Cnl.ed al,OfIin
in the rn05t umw '!4mting "ltitudc, Jlreatlling.
hi' ril/hl huul h.anllin,tl down, hb- Idt raised.
l'robcably lhese t'UI{'Itutl't aN' Clr" I"ur do.ll.'.
Thtl'C AI"( IllAny Buddhas .ittinJt
and ltandina in the usual atlitwte or Upa'liliun.
The ,...I\ole 01 the front. of lhi! ene it rully
(O\' er(d with 8l'Ulptured RfOUP' IlJld ",iUI Olosl.
clabol'!ltc .tm in very guOO JIft'"
5Cn 1I1ioll, nil' grc.t llrehed ... inllo. nben' e thl'
jM)r\' h woodc-n rorms or till'
TI)f:
atone imitation of wooden .lrucl1lrC! i. "et)'
prominentln this owe. and thl' rafte'n IIIK!

Wtnl carefully out in the MJilljl'S. At the
"nht of Ihe mllill .. Ie ill a piaet' of I1!JX*'
(or pUJrri1l1& or attendant... 11Ie I"OClflI Is SDUlII in
,Iv, U", CRpiLat. ur tile pill"ni are richly earn-d
\filh mango hranchr. and of srn .... ill Ule
middk.
Oppo6it.e. to Ule rat-hooM! 11 jp'Cft1 lICUIpture
(If 11 lDake king. ,.100 probe-bly ..... 1.rotJ.i IUP-
porter of Buddhion, Kated under nonop)' 01 a
K\'mhoodtd cow. 511&ke. with ru. ql-lofCQ Lo1 hII
'"

MU to Ajunla olld &gla
side, In her Idt hand ,be hold. a Jolu. flower,
On tile right a fernAk attendant 1\' 1\.1 carved with a
It),.ran in ber "and,
On ClKh .ide of till! gTeIIt window is"
figure in halo IUld rieh that OD the
left hokb. bIIg and represents U.e Cod ofWeal.tb:
a tiny ehild counting the mone)' .. t 10 early an
IIjle JeeIllII to be alre1l.d)' follo",ing in the r .. ther' ..
footJtept;.
Inside, in the 1UIvt't t.hoe are fifteen columns
.bout fifi.crYl feet high, .. \ t the $qUArII b!\Sail ot
thC$e pillars Ilft' some .mall flgmu on I be 1'(IrIlCrJ,
These pillars support bracket calpital. each
richly $CUlptuml with 11 nUing RuddlUl in the
And elephant., or two ridenl, ot I.ige...", or
flying ftgtll'l'!l OD the bra.cli:ets, FJabomte Ii<'UiJl'
ture. OYC!' lhea-pilllb givegMlL riehness of efltc:l
to the interior of lh. CI\\'e. Thr:y appal' to be
'Yn)'boIk: of DuddbwlI, and eaeh eompDIition is
.. kgeod.
The whole of the interior ..... once CO'fered with
.. thin eoa.ting ol white pI&litcr. 10 M to hide the
.url'1\I:e 01 the rock mlimy: but in .pite of
the ..:ulptDft worlctd ""'11l ..-t paint to produec
dabomt(! l:arTing. There i. lI('tt much variety
In t.bc st'UlptulU of the trirorium bell
TIIOt: C.'IDnIbt of alt.ernau Sitt ing or .tAnding
of Buddha, U.e filting 0Dea .. 11
,,,
I
,

,
/ .UWf' iHlo IlIe
\July "aridy bc.,." in the )'QIIition of
the hAnlh, every dirkl'mt aUitud., of ,..hid. Iou
1111 import"nL atl.uebcd t o it. Ikb'ecn
of 8cel,l!(! Ruddtu..s ,tanib 11 Ill(lll'e in
the usualllltihwle of opocitiOl1. 1I,1d lilt; altItude
in all is ,'cry "(,Mly the Slime. and yet lto two
filflll't'll are e . .'actly .mce,
, \ ).,'1'CI).t dOnle rises tight reet. 11::11 ribs nre
m .. lc of .to:n", .-z,d t'\'cry rourth find
MU, rib is: (' ... ... 1.'(1 11 tiger', loud. A mOlliI 1fOr-
wrought .tlll'" oppot'litc the nuUlI
door, "hi"'. hu a bu-n:lief of" titundlng Uuddhu,
aud on the top of t he .tU['OI' are t hree umbrell ..
in none "bon, the otMr.
The roof of the awe it IIl1tllml h.u been pllint!
with onlnmcnUJ IIQ1rtlT lCnlIu. Buddll&5 ami
&tulLU. and on the ... alls \.N:(on painlU'lgl or
lJuddl". M Il5 attend.nts, t,m, UppeI' tw{>
r("O'3 .ittin, .nd tl,e third rno..t1y sl/lndiug.
ahowing baJOII behind the htad8.
Thl' anango!ment ror the Iil!hling of thtI int.mor
or this cave ill ,imply I'OItderl'uL The dAyl4;ht
inlrodua:<1 through one f:TCIll opening In
, U'ro>n brilli.llnt VII Um .Iu.t, the
prill'>ilWlI objeot. 'lUt! 11190 11[11\1' CllpiUb: ut
pillan. txactly it IIlQ'!!t W'Antoo. The
lllJr'rlator hinUl:'lr 11111111. in the shadt. TIle
I'sbt t)O the 110<" is tubdUC!\1 .nd Lbe rout and the
'"
)1/1 J>i1trimogu w AjmllD nrtd 8",,,
alsla f"de into COtllparati,>c gloom. The jXlfth
at the back of the <:etut ltndft" !.he grut. atd!ed
windows .till The flve pm .... on (Uh
.idt of lhelWveSii!'parate the ai$It: from il, and Ihe
mnft!; run l'Cund tht atupa.
This enve conuiM mlUlY pealnled Buddhas in
theaislt$, and a few othtnl with figure. of ('h.ity.'
still on the roof. The roof or the rront
aWe <'OOtairlll exquisite paDt1l. and lhow
or the .. ide ai.J.lt:f art: painted in ricll floti&tcd
pallem.
Temple 10 at Ajanta mnaiM one of the grmt
.l'('hi!.ecturw.1 trillmph5 nf the ""(lrld. The ntxt
cave, 20, i. D. !mail bihara. or mOIlMtery. wilh two
tuved c:oIumM in I'nmt of the
bftrarula. TIlty hlwC' hl'&('kett altathrll to thtir
Qlpilab, .nd there it a ('harming .tatllctte 01
wonl&ll under a canopy or foliage. 11te
or lhese is bold ami rree, much
thOM- in cave 10. Th..,.ides of Ule >kpll to the
b&nulda ]C\"e] an: Qlt'\'ed with beautiful dOl'Sli\'fI
d"ib'll$ of rh'u .naka, known mall.... The
ctiling of the ban.Ddll it hewo in ilnitation of
woodeo beam .. and raftcfw which ... :nllnd one or
10 and 11. Ateacllend o(thc bant.nda it
. ""-
TIle hall hu no eo!WUIll. The Il"" ill twenty
ei,ht ft!(!.l wide, twcnty ... ix feet long and about.
thittteP (C'(t !lith.
The roof 15 supported on.!y by the ",.lis Ilml the
rront of the Ilntc-clJMlbtt, whieh advanca about.
lIt\'fij mto the Clve t.lUl hllS in tront two
iunnountcd by seVCll esrved of
Uuddha and attmda.n15.
The of Buddha in the '''rine has once
hn (lIlint.ed with deep lndian red. I'erhaps thiI
'IIU done III " much Illter by .ome I .... !'eU-
(Ion, Ilrtisl.ll.
It seem. \'UY much u lhough this I:*,'e Will
ulII!'Cl as chapter-house rOt this Ia5t group or
ca,'cs. 'DIe interior is vcry dark, bul is dry and
kttpJ IIn eo:lullhle tempt .... tun:: all round.
The . 'bolt ottJ"" Clve.t QDe '01'&1 paintl
but now, except for fl'1linlent. on tbe root, all
have TIIee fnIgmo'lu c:onaiIt of
Uowen ami interlaced designs.
!-'Mm this CI"C we de$ct.:nd, and then de5c:end
"'Pin by a sler:p path rOt considtnt.b1e distance
Illong the fACt of
".
,'ery early morning until late into lhe night
I worked. By dAy I the puts of
that were well lit. and by ni,,'ht Umt
always ,lark; thus I ecoollonlisal both in petrol
and my l,ire resoI,-ed it&elf into ".ork.
t'llling Rnd l leepini. al1d at'tlpel from alld
foet.
Evuy moming wben J went. down to the
stream for my ablution" I found rootvrinb of
tige:rs.panthe.rs and wolnIJ. whieh had eomedo ... u
to drink at night. AIIII it inl.tn:llling to tee
Ute little OlltS' footprints witb them. Why UHK
animaLJ 1\(!\'er hurt me I do not know. p.,m_pI!
Uley had beeome Buddhist alld 'yntl)athised
with my work.
1n U.e lullllDll the coloutl eh.ugec:t to
brownll tunl ddiah JoIds. o.nd red biouonl
.-pl'l'&d like HalllCS on the hill.; gradually lbc
Ihtir leII'd! And whole
became boa .... IWd it Snltd ,11 waiting in siletll
JJn.yu for the CQO\ing Spring.
A.J tilt: lun "'tnt clown old , uhul'el to
thcir rocky nau by the _tcdaIb and owl!
lO.
booted' through the night. 1'hl' oppnJitc llil1
pI'e me " picttlre ot animal .nd bim lire
all times of lhe day. l'taoockJ took! be 111
everywhere in the jUllgle. by the strum. on the
roekJ Dml t.rte.. and their luu:sh lKJue.kiTlG: \"Giee
I!I:ho!ld from ooe side to !lIe tllber of the hU!&.
IIl"l1:t pe!l('k I laW at o\jant.a 1I'M 8itti"l
towanls nightfall on blAek roek which piert:ed
whiw sky. lJy i low degrec:t it dcsoentled to
the strum at the end or !.he hill to drink _kr.
One night I entered one o.r lhe
cave.; a very l$ltge unflnbhed Me, whieh wu
hudl)' ever .00 mldt stale and krribko,
",hilt' Itnked through the. TIlt
""11 wu of gffSl utmt. IIntl thick rolmnM r'OIIt
10 the OI:ilirIJ:, gorgeously can'a! and decor.toIl.
The otmOllphere Will! fearful and .alem". I relt
I wu not alone. M I advanced into the middle,
with my pet:roIlrunp in my haoo. theTt'wua win"
o.f wings. IInd hundl'ed, cl swaIIo>Q btpn to rall,
dutd al the light, striklng my head and boIJy
and tumbling 10 the ground, Oat.., too. were
t1yilllf about. JroWId -.od all round me ....
to ihic!k with theIe blKlr. rock .wallo .. that I
Will! afl'll.ld of treading upon then" Ilntl could IIQt
work b1lJU1J. U \'C! by ,,!chI.
Another t'vcning, aboul twilight. jll.t .. J Will
gdbng re.dy r(Jl' my little .upper 01 curry &ad
1$1
My Pilgrimtt,qu AjtJlltn allJ
rice which Duddhll "liya was prtplUing, I hean!
" el'llSh, and in front of me fell D big be"",. stone!
Almorl immediately another rolloOffl!, anti had
J bctll just tW(I or thrtt!. reel rlU'lher forward I
should hll\'c been killed thlll evening by o.e.t
fragnlenu of rock. I was startled. IUtd It.$kcd my
w:rvanl: " What is an this? WhAt does it meaD 1
It it an et.rlhqunkc 1" Ut I\.bo wu quite dum\).
founded.
A little later .e went by 5idc. of the
lee _hat WM .. boYe my mve and on the top
01' the hilb. The ,ides of these ca"es like
D slmi.;lIt wall. and whm wc came out '1'e ....
that Wl"tC hundreds of monkey. qua.tTd1int
and fiGhting cad1 other along the tup of the hilll.
1If1 danger may IUI\'e remlkd fl'OlTl accident,
bul I think the little htul me, alld it
wu not just cbanor: UlAllutd iCtlLlhoooc .tOMS IQ
near to my head.
My .uvant pointed to UIC sky and said I
.. Look." and I NW the ad\'ance of hea\'y threat
em", cloud.. lIe Ulen crpWncd UlIll. there
wwld be a mighty stonn that n4:bt, ."d the ,"Id
DKlnkep. knowing uu.. came along (rom UIt:
Jungle to rrt Jihdte ror the: in lbc$e ea-rtf.
or OOllnc then: wu no door to my CI'\'C. I
dept without pI'Uled.ion of any kiml. it w .. opell
I .. "h"lever lUlinlAl or bird cl,c.c to come in
. "
BuL "Ithough 110 not ID ""\'n
lhey wet(! lJII':6tcl>inB Cor WCl romen. b!:L_n the
pl-.ifl I'OeQ and in th" I' ( t (\eS nC ClOIURlIUI
... he"' they f:ouW din; out of reach or their
natural CHmlial, t.he prowlillg hyrnA.t i\nd
tigtn.
They tunotd up that oll;ht, but behAved very
well, Md .rtl!T Ill! no One likes to get. wet, 10 tilt"'
they .tared. Dul the monkey-. altOOuJh Al1I\OT*
inIt. were not. to dangerou. as ItlIlU: or my other
ClflemM" botb linl.,.. and largoet, and the' liny Me.
poison bees.
On ooe ou:uion ... I wu pA-Ui." from c:ave 10
to another with my petrollArnli in m)' hAnd, my
head was .uddtnly 5Un'Qundf'tl by " of
lire.. TIIUI' an many rombi. or wiNI bees h"",,"1:
on the-, root nt lhor: OWC5, DIlI'(',,}"tN' the
village PfOPIt: f!OlIl<' 10 1"OI1tct. honey, Tbfoy
pther " .peciaI kind of rtom ctlUin juoile
tree., and nl4kil\i a AA! or the'fI """,k " anrokc
which worries th" bra.. nit)' an! 10 .emit!""
to the 01 5nlOkC! that. at. onCC! tJlCY try
to eat up their bun,,),. and miIlklns 0( o.m.
I,roduring " dark ck,oud, ny mile. away to avoid
the ,rodL Then thl! people roUeet. what 1.1 Id\
or tbe Ilooq' to..,u in the IWU'keL I had. u.ncon.
tociouaI.y enaded !.be part of
and the ben Im(:llina thr rlllDft or my pdrol
'"
My " JIgriIIflVU (D AjanJiJ all/I Uagll
lam" thDu;;h1 their em.'miell Wn'!! IlI'U and bqan
10 ('()!Uf" down. All I rooM do wu to run, for
if aUacl!.ed they ",err roooot Uld it it Mid
that .omctin\el u,ey ue so f!Oi5Oll(lUS t.b1\t lhe:
IIting of one q enough to klU an elephllllt.
The ('howkhidus of the eav,", tQld me UUlt 00C'e
an oIllcial of U,e !'Oium's GOH,"un('fll came IQ
insJl('<'t the ('11.Ves. lIe .. 'lI!I p&Sjiog along (lUUide
c..ve 10, quite ardessly llUmnS IIwIIY lit 11 cigar.
whet. dQ"'n ClIme 8 ."Aflll Qt bcal Ami .tung hir
bald hl'!ad. Then he pe" at.olut.ely frantie and
... n towartb the .tream .honting for hdp; bul
the r ... ter IlC': I'an and the angrier be the
Inure the boer; kept ,tinging. In cte.pen.tion, be
pJun/('t'd into the water. 11lt:reullMtbelJedtowk..
hidtus ru!illf'd out to hi. Wl1I"ped him m
rUIl!!. 1\1111, 1iint'e h3 IIf!IlI.I ...... badly smlllm,
C!IIrried him to the "UIa!!e.
1'1te ouJy mnml'!nl J tcll "'Ally WM one
towards the end or my long and loocly life
in the taves. It It'IQ just midnight. ' r he
OIl18ide of lhe ('a,'(, Will talrly hright with tlI<1
.u." _bo"f;'. I had bren to bed ellr/y Rnd _
peacdully in my IitUe tot ... Ilf'fl 8OIlX"
thin, made me wake up. anti I tournl myself
.ilti.., ull in .lnliltCd altention. Something was
to JUI"p!IIl Sure C'lIOtljlh it did.
" try .Iowly a great dnrk d..pe puted III ftunl
' 00
,
Ath:rntllru-PIIIJMJIIl and
of my 1'fI\"e; I woh:hcti to know ""hal it
W&I. It went gndually on. I thought; .. I hope
1 Iltn not dreaming," alld rubQed my eyes and
looked agai!l. Ji'rom the rillhl.hand aide of l.ht"
tal'lS 1UI0thrr !lhnpe roUnwc:tl the I1rst, only
mncb It must hal'e: been four or Ih'e 'l-et
loog and "boul four high, When it QJW: in
front of .... htTt- 1 Will silting IIJl motion ..... It
IImM to be looking sttaight al me I 1 w,,' two
apol1l of light like .. yes. IUld thell turned and
dirl':dtd aWlly ami into lhe
jung\.e. It ...... n huge tiger I
l ly ten'lUll 'I\'a!o lying uJp like .. log in the
ItCthand comer of the e:fwe. J w., tcnillly
ftightc::oe.:.l.. bllt the: feur of hi lll altogether
1'!'CI'Ollttl me fl'Oln git"julJ fI trut' version of my
t:J:poiena'. 1 just dl'SCrihed tile bea3l IIJI "
Jacbl or IIODle:thing." I thougbt if he Law ...
lhoe lnIlh mi&ht run away from me-
TI.e next morning I ....... blc to tra.:e a rq;uIllr
... t""II& down 10 the torrent hed by which thetre
animals wt.nl to IInd fro. It pil1'\('11 lite
tclT1lCe .. of my but tl1n ... or (o)ur
y...w.: tram l URd 1<. After U .. t
Uuddhu )6y. and I WJCd to ('oiled of
."."ClOd (rolll tl,e junale <!n!r) to buaLJ "
fir .. on l hl' hrJ'8l'C.
Sowetimtlt. late into t he! J cuI/jell tb,
CfQlCOb in the C80YCl .".hk:h l luad Sl'If'ctoci beto .....

'"

IIV Pitgrinutp. 1.0 A.jonl.o IInd nlll"
hand. Ancr supper wall my time to atudy and
to wander round the e''''eJ to amUIC mytdr.
The pMlltiJIr in these enel were not
P,riIy the work of artist, but of lRany, IOttIt.
or whom were m06t probably the monb them
*,h'eI. Of to!.IMiC. the belt. w&I" ... erc gin:!I to
the best artists,
Among the Hindu. roIllld llbout Ule "illagoc: of
Aj,mtll the story goes that the gocb ami
tired or lhe monotony of IH .. I .... and
dairil\g to rclre.oh thclllseJxC!f with a little excllt--
mcnt, bq:gcd to go do"'" to earth tor (Mill
night to enjoy U\em5dvC$. So tlU'T\eitly did
they entmat Indta. God of UN-ven. that ill com-
pu1ion he ,ranted their request, with the (011-
dition. however, Hllll they .hould rellll'll bdon'
UIC cock', first. aow, olhet'o"ise they would lit
.but out r.rom (or e"tT.
,
Then the ph IInd goddesses dO,,"II ''IO'iNy
to the earth, danciug and linging for joy od no ,
toOna did they Re tl,e splerulid gotboe neat
Ajuta lhall they chose: it ror the ,ite or their
onc night's entctai.nment. Busily they hol-
lowed 0111 ot the hi1hddt. balb and thambm; &lid
IiO thoroughly enjoyed tbeQUiCh-eI that they for-
JOt. tllfl time: limit: but. aJq, they 'll'Cre startltd ..
by UM' tod;'s crow, and the kina of heave\l'.
CUI'R lell upon them, ami .0 they tflU1l1'onned
162

lhmlKh"t/I into bi!outitul lCull'tumJ And paint
;np. Ne't'tI' "Pin roukllhe:y return to bcti\<'I1.
but .... to remain on e.rth ror ever.
poor iIIiun.te ,,,,,,pk A"" so il:UOnult thAt
they dO) not el'ell know tbAI IhtM'. C-'"'" lire
Duddllillt- rootWlcriew: but conoeet. th..,m wilh
thit lIowenr, the \'iIIf11lt'J"1 h.,' (' "'""),11
known or U,C t .. dJiwIICC of Un! 1'f.\'("!I, Al\d from
veT)' ""elent timC$. Olltt: Il. yl'ur. they 8UlI IlOld ..
tl'1"lition.' rllil' down by nrtom below I.he
es.vts, whme pMlI. PleD, "'onlm IUIII thildrt'1I
can "isit the ('aI-ell ..,d JilleDd one tlay or the
in an entire.ly ,,;.y (rom .U lhe
rest. abIMlt the end of NOloember.
Doe My morninjr. mar eaHI I, I btpn to
hear .. noi.e 01 PfOllle and rumhle or bulloclc
cart.. it Will! imJlO&Sihl1l for the ('an. to J;O
farther, Ihe appl"Ollclled gradu.ily towardl
the JOU.I'('e of the RfC&fIl. ,\\1 day lung n inliu
PiPlc wcre Rrriving (rom C\'crywhat Irnlllld,
&ametinu;. rf'OlTl M mMy u thirty milel .way.
at&rtini (or the festival e-'eD two or three

They btgan to settle in the valley aud to btU11'
in the .tl"Nm. dtu_nb putting on rn:sh go
a-Wy-roloumd dollle'$, red. gtttn. lturpie and
retlo,,". and then .. "tilt into the' Ll'mplts. The
pne.lI f'*<:h took c:hatJe of Uu-ce or four c.ns, 10
16'
J/!I Pilgrlm(ljtO /0 .-4j01ll0 and B4I11
Ql"lirf to show to the pilgrims the images of
lIud1'1ha lritting crossk:gged In the IhriM. at
_hote feet Of into whose 1111' they pve oRcringt 01
flower.. fruit. a litUe riCC'. small eartlK'nware
Wnj1S. and lfII)lle)'. As soon as one btltch of wO!'-
\hippt:rt had out the prielt ... oult! take the
food amI m<'lncy into hi. own kccpin.
below in nwine, QS the ,un went
higher Ill' In the noisy baunl'gradually
spmng up. will1 smnll .talb for selling food,.wtet--
mftIu, l1oll'tn, fruiu. clothes, earthenware lamp$.
to)"s snd pipc'!ll (01' children,
nuoupOUl the whole day a
of people eame and went. to and (rQm lhe aI'"cs.
othe:n bathed and wor5hippro.. cooked and ste,
Ta'lintd. slept Of sang by the $tl'tllM, The fair
\atW until t.he filii of day. whell the people
graduIlly deserted the ancient Ihrines, leaving
the .... lIey more lonely and .tUl.
h happrnted ol)Cday that while I Will C)lCllmining
closely the rol_' image of nulldhll ill cave
10 and WII$ fling tJ1e sll)l)Qtilneu of his flfIll5, I
fcll IOmelhinf hanl rtieking np in the joint or
MW:: of the a.mu. Fecling IUlher eurlow. 1 dup
it out of lhe atc:umulatc:d dirt with .. pt:nknife lUid
found it to be .. hea\')' thick piece of metal .... hidl,
on being brought to the light, appeared to be a
coin, app6rent.ly "UY ancient..
'"

I
Some time t.kr. P""eMOrS rrom Calcutta
Unh' en:;ty ellnlC fQJ' 1\ short visit 10 the caves. I
Ihol"ed Ihell1 the eo;n. "nd they. with mU('h C$-
cit.cnlt'nt. lold Jlll' it might be a "tT)' tArly Dudd-
eoin. When it hnd been d cnllOO, however,
it prond to be 1111 early llahorntthm coin. about
(h'c hundml years old. E\-idently 5O<ne mndu
pilgrim had plaee<1 it &$ an oltering in lhe han,1 r.t
Uuddha,
Thil gob to prow: that e\'ep iD those tllrl)' tUys
thc t*VeI!WM't known to 110" Uimlus. ",hI) tbl t ..
rome Rlld vrunhip theft', but not. 10 tllC Maha-
medll.n" who would ollitr""'ise ha\' C destroyed
the .. 'holc pIaet', as they did destroy othl'T ,'t\.ves
and temples in IndiA,
a (ew Uindu pcvple come tll IU.h
in lbos Inke 11.1 the bottom ollbe tAlIJ or to
pllwT "-oc.x11U\d wild l'ruitJ; In lite jungle I\l'OIull1
lht flwine, and lhen they "'lIndll'l' into the tin-e!.
It is llStonishinr to St'e thal tbeir ta<!CA' MiJ
(eaturn, .imple movements. IllId .implicity of
nature arc exaeUy like old llainlil'lg".
toIptclally ruemblin# the in CII"d1 9 IIOd
".
TIle hillJide was IlIway. ((Ive_1 ..-llh .... il<1
rnlila' A"d iJowCrI; but now, in the autumn
,",,",fll aiuly-I]owtrs bloomed all akmg lhe _ay-
!tide, DVel' I.lle hunldeA afld in &mOfli't Ihe pomt-
".

My lit Ajnllkl nnd BClg"
granatel, PpdI Clnd rich npe bemca. So fragile
wne they thAt lit tile fil$t touch or the the
white petals .nd 0I'llDge: mllUl dmoJl(d. I was
rmlinded of tile day, ... het! Lbe simple
monQ Ih'ed l'ilkHy on lhe fruits Illld
they pew. or which tbe.c I saw '!fere tile
wild traeet',
In I.he .tream Clncl all along it.. bIlnlu _
_ million!! or litUe clirunond-.!iilapro.toots.
black, \'ennllion reil, IUld yellow. One reeb "
great desire to collect. tbtm. It W/II illit rock
'*OUZ' '!filll which Ule artists or Ajanta used to
Jlnlnt tbeir frescoes, In is lhiII
mercnc.<e to rock colour: .. llis rompauUon
ricu up from thc fI"OUnd pict'CS of day or stone
ofdiffercntco!ol,l .... -bluc, yellow, brown A1)(1
grey," But this crude material WAl knoW'n not
ollly in lho5e times, but Cl' en to-OOy "mong the
Indian \'illare IIII'tUU it is UJed (or executing huge
ilMft!' or pis and KOddCS8el, In Bengal sueb
1Irtlrt.s ha\'C .hewn me UI("ir iamllblaeU. titeir
glua. and their rn:.e waknl and UlC:ir numerouJ
rock eokJul'tl, The nth I ndiM red (known u
Gen.maU) can be oought by !!hunks ror A penny
or two in the bauar. TIae glue is obt..illcd by
boilUlg the LllmArine KW.
l<'rOnl ,'.riOUll rcfcrmea In old SaNikril writing$:
It il known thll1 wall .. inting w ...
,""
,

tonUDO/1 ill India lrom very ancient timet.. all
lhe rich people having their walla with
fl'tSOOCl. And evna up till lu-dAylhis tndil.ional
art has lurvivtd, thouQh iri mlher 11 d_denl
way; 10 Uu .. l p!\intings or clephantJ. hutlWlR
tlgcl'll, ... 00 mylhologiw gocb
nnd goddenes. a PlUTOt on An apple tree, ,,00
two lJullt or ptl n8hti .. one lUlot.her are round
Uti the (ronl!i. backs and .idea of house., as well
.. a1p&l1.' designs. whid! every Indian woman
kIlO .. And wilh which, using the li l" of her
in a few hOOfS she can cover a Iruge: ",nIl
or ftoor.
''''
('UAPTEn t: J. f.VJ.::ol
TII 1*IIIClU OP INDIAN AIT
I?t.'"&IMI lhe yenn from tht' tllin! nwry to the
lIi:clh a:nlW'y a,lOthn Ifl'OUP ut t'fw"", was C'III
out on the 5ide of the hilllln,1 to thr right
of the \"IU"" (If the first IlO!riod. The!e six eII"d
ate now lIunliM!rro O. 5, 3. 2. \, \11 dRy it ii
hnpnssible to t' I'ieariy within Ih(III.1IO (!luk are
t.hey: bUl at l"\'cuinS. the
in the west. Uwoy ligllt up. luul th'" rl"''IoeOC' glo ...
un the wall" ThL'Y raJI intO thl' third group or
ua.vation. in lhe .\ jllfltA series.
c'\VI: G. - Thi, bihom I'nl' e 0 if Ihl' 0,,1)' one
here at Ajantfl wlUch has bul hll$,
w\fortU'lSlei),. exl'lluI.ltd in 11 spot
tbe rock " nul 100 10.011-00 ., ill other In
ttf this. the bllrnmlll or tbt upprr
5totq. 11 .. rallen down. and the illtuictr JaM
dlLmp IInd rulntd lIot 00/11111011 in t'IlI'I1
atl'hiteclun::,
'1'hc! hall. or hotJ, storey. are of nboul .nl<:
dimension... nny.utr! foel There atl'
four .ind",ft'io whirb light the 11ll1J.:.. and
none lull under them is plllI(lkd to ,.;' Cl the effect
of wood, nlc npllCr twe!I'e pillars. In
the 10wC'l', four more are iIlUO .hIeet! in lhe nm.
!Go
I
"""' ... lO .. ""', k.,
.-
,
,
,
TAl! Fiu" PeritHl pl /MW1f Art
In the tin eIlt':h gdt of the door>fay. In
the upper corner there must. turtly _
hllve
been two tan'M figuK'S. but thele hAve no ....
tallen ."lIoy. LoenI mcudicantlllivtd in this elwe
and madc flres, "hieh did mlleh dllnlllR" to the
i.nterior Ilnd the paintings 00 the wait. and
c:dIin(p therdn.
Out of the pillnl1i ill the IOWN ho,lI, only
11 fcw 1I0W n:maln nnnding. Thr olhen cd
Inpsed beeause of lhe mud "hid! ro"cm1 the
lower and eamro tQ weaken and
ttlImble awll.y. Not pillnnr .Ione have
given wily. hut I\bo mlUSe!l of .lone from the
ttiling h .... e fallen.
TIle .t.lr in the front aisle leariillB to Ille uppc'r
Iu;>rf:y hu btcn broken IIWI\.Y below, but ill !.till
eonno:cttd with the t.rancl Ixwt. TIlt, haraocl"
WII\3 originally tupportcli by two dnc: coIumM OUlI
four pilulel'1l. Abo\' c lhe landilllr Arc ,ru,ny
.mall Buddbll!l ('flrved on tllto wall, and tWQShlp".,
Outaidc the baranda in the "PpeT 1t0l'e)' are
smaU ebapcl:l with $eulptured Iluddlw..
.:reabo att'lleh cnd or the b:U1tndasmall
.... ith t'nrVed IIlHan: 11(\ doul>t these Ipt'cllllly
built (or the bving al'artment. or the hi;b prieata.
IlUIide tllCJC chambers there !U"C' ruomJ Wge
enougb ((lr eonsultatkmil And other ptlTJX*'tI.
f')pp06ite the eentr.l ... lIt eada side .ml At
'"

JIIJ ID Ajnnln and 8",.
the end of the \C!rt ai!;le lire dUlmben .nUl pillan
ill front, ,*cl\ leadin/l: to "11 inner ecll. Tilt-re
IlIso Uu'ee ttlLs on euh licit fln rl one al the end 01
the ri,.ht nill!e. The !hrine co:ntaiJlll the UlUlI
stltue or HudrUlII.
n.e anl.c-clwnber m quite and hrq a
co!OS$Ill ngure or Buddha on eath side or the
5hrine door. TIle .hrille ('Ontains the tlJUDl
sbtue or Buddh/l with two antelopes on u..c rront
of the throne.
This has bee! painted, but the
ings hll.-c .IDl05t entlre!y disappeared. Tt h
Ilbo a larger nUl1lber of I<:ulptuns of Duddhu
t.hao any other bihara at Aj_llta.
The rew Cnlgmentl or pAinting Oil the back
wall of the lower storey and in the ante-chamber
art .0 smoked that notllln, c:an be madt- Ollt nt
them. cxo:!epl .. large palace IC'CIlC and Ind ... likc
figures on both iidt:s of the shrine.
The upper Itore)" hllS been pllioted, but thi, h.-
almost entirely disllpptl'red. The front or the
chapel In the right end of the tront aWe HIIJ
retaillJ ftllp\Wl.5 01 UiC pe.intint;". and iNide
the .... It. ha\'e been co\'eml ",ith pmntcd Bud
dhas. 1n the left chapel in rront, 00 meh aide
of UiC tcll-<loor. is llainted Dl'tIIlIirian building.
a bl lur.ra, on tilt inside of the i)Jll'1lnda roof of
Ilr omat"r ornament, -.rit.h .trinlf' 0'
170
,
TI" Plri/ of fPfdiQJt "'11
pN!U lumginl! from it. nod imide IJlt bib .. ,. d
a seaLed 8 uddha.
The lower or CIl"e e hili ita pillars
e.rn.ngcd in formatio.n rrorn UIIlI. in the
In.ter J\ jAnta CIWeL whel'D there IO'ould '1Il"e been
h,'el .. c Nund ... Illlllln!. Hcre they ue amlnged
In four row. or four aleh, aixteen in Itlt, find
witho.ut ClI,)it.1s 0.1' liculphu'f',
Crtllt pains "'e,re taken wilh the $talue. of
Ilud.lh.ll: one in lhe ehnmher t o. the right
Gf the first floor Gf cave 6 it a-n'ercd with 11 Iaya
oIlht' finest pluter. ooe dghlJl of an inch tJtick,
110 I,aint.ed IIlId ,)Oi bhcd that lbe fAce has the
lmoot.hnet$ and .heen of pomcl.ain.
This III tbe CMIiOll Mve or third grou,l nnd
Ilrobably it dates front UO ,u). to ".n.
No.w we flA'S on to l'*I'e the bihnra
in the whole Jid of IWlllty.ninc I'$vt't at
Ajant.. The. nul IIll''$I is CtlI' C e
Il ls higJ\er u11 \n the din tban 3,
and probably a little higber than the pe:d tbree
lit this end o.f the MU, Simple grandeur gi"d!
it 11 wonderfully beaulifulllPllellrance.
n,e co"em! with ei1;hl plain
OMI AgUl'e-pl1l1U'l. The huge barand&, Ilmety
feel long by fret wick. 11 lIUpported by

pill.,.. with bracket npitab.
,\ 1 clWh cnd is 11 .mall room, ten by djehl
In
MII Pilgri/lUllu IQ Ajanl(l Md BtIII!
reet. re&C'bed by three Itq-os. which were probably
dwnbcn (or 01' for ktqJU 01 the N.\"e,
In the -.11 at llle back of th .. bar.orla tlw:
eenlral door i$ .culpturc.d of painted.
wltich r, unusual at. Ajant..a.. The mtlll)n k that
.t lhe I.ter dlllc or this CXC8l'lltion ...
not rontent willl raintinl!, but fdt I\.n irrnisUhle
Imrul.-c to " lIlore pll1$tlc (oml or dtenfftllnn.
Unfortunately. this door hll IJoeelI dlll08ged ur
to " height <)( tlfO reel, tJle floorof' tile cl",.:.I .. ,;oc:
ror lung br:en ruled with earth. Ilntl'CI'l:r. the
dttoration on the- wlIII CIIch aide i, still ullhllrrJled.
lIere an- dcpict1:d fucinlllins of men IInd
WOftIVI. Inlklng fllII:ny. swries llhuut lions. bull"
monkeY'. plt Il\ml_IIt IInd cI."banlf. and
Illto. on Ihl: "Ilhl side. a iIuJ:c': rtantlinle relitf of
BIHMha. a prill:. young. strong 8noll)Mtltiful.
The OIquan- windows 1ItC' eaM'cd
... ith delicate whirling foliage. IInd among it
filw Rgurf'S And rlmbll), b!lIliClt.
The hall is eighty.!lelcn feet !If)Ulltc, BUpported
by twcntr-eisht or 1h" 'lIImC phulI 8t)'le
a. thaw- o( the baranda. .\t " .. ch cnll of !,he aule
ill eel!. The reiling looQ rough. as thuugh 11
1aytl' of rock load W1en olI'; but and
die in the can'. an:!: trart'S of pHillLing in
briUlant ClDlours. Thr- ante-dillmbn-.
fed by thirtf!oen fec;,t, hII5 HlIllding nudJhu
,
-..
. -



.lit each end of its .... 11 and Oil cither side. or Uu::
shrine door .lire t1l'0 5imU.r IIguru.
Ct.V1l 3.-Tbu ca"e, .11 .ImIlll bihanl pll1t-ed
hi;h up on tile wcsLrrn lop or the eJUttllt hiU.
d"ting (tom the 1iC,-enili century. was llC\'et
eompJetcd; in f&<:t , onl)' the buanda WIIJI blnektd
out. The b.tanda it .IIbout twentynine feet
by lIC'\'cn feet. and IUpportetl by fout pillal1l
and two pUutml, A I"OUgh entrnnee hoen
made into the hAil, but there hu been 1CatC!Cly
any ClI:ta ".1 ion.
Ct.V1t !i.-Tbis i. another bihara ea..-e, .lit the
IGmt Icvd as Numh .. r tI, no pecu'
liarity .nd noll'er quilt: finished. We may IUsume
it to be oC "bout the same daLr .. ca,'e tI,
The barandll is ovu forty.B,'c feet
by
about nine red wWe, with rour tvIlt pil1An;
but only one-Ul4t on the right &ide of the cn
trllm:&-t. finished. quik pillinly in the al1\f style
.. UlOW of ca,'t, I, only much
shartcr and with. RJ,uare buc. t.o tht bott.ont.
TIle door of Ihis tII,'C is Nlther interct:ting. with
ita many carved slJIndin&, flJ;UtCI (If Dudtllln .ml
.ttmdenu and pain of I(aIM Windo ....
ha,'c ba-n cut out but ne,'cr finJ.thetl,
No dUlIla. Lhe r(M'i.: ....as fOUlld unsuitable
folf excnatlo!:l, "lId Lhc-rclure the whole can' WN
leCI unBuished.
'13

CA'"!: 2.- The scronu tine or tht.
or the tCril'$, is $illlilllr to but smAller thin \1.$
neighbour. ca\'e I. Jl is onC' or U,e c.''e most
IJOU,ble rot ilt richtleli!l in rre5CO
whkh art marvt:lloulJy pteSrr'l'cd. ill spite "r
their expolled position.
Tht. b&nlnda. 'lightly O\'er reel in
length. is IIl1pported in front lJy rour jl,lhu'S 1I1It!
two piLutMi nt ma!II."c proporliota, all with
aimilarly dq.'IlJlt dnigIl$: 80 finc.-rId deliCAte
Indeed are the umanu:ntaliOIl' lhat would
5eaU more flIitcd to me'" work th&.ll to JI.onc.
At alilrr end 01 the buanda in !'roilt or the toro
princip!li Cl'lb .laIldJ a JllIIIIIlI poffh. lhe diffcnllec
in height hciog UlIklc up I.y bMrtlid'"
lentin" *"=115 ffOm UK': lire or U"dtlhll. A
tbapd.1'OOIIl 1tada !roll! CQCh porth.
,
'nIt ,"'I,.,., PcrUxI of I Jldum I rl
Dt:twccn the hAIl f,lul the lwanda It a findy
dero.rated door, at till! boltonl cl ""hleh arc
1IC\'enal gu8.flh. IIp(lIIl'Cntly holding (le'""
Ing lht'f\l a.,. 'lwt'-eUlOpie.. A lxwe this are
nulllt'fOUf pain of Uandlng figul"l$, male And
renudc, Cl\rvoo in \' nriOWl .ttit\IIIC$, The t!l\l'e
Ilu tw() pllICltd oppc:!Iite 10 the licle
.31e rormM by the mhlycal'\'M culumn. In lhe
hAIl.
One is a little taken abat-k 011 entering the bal l
to find it.cl dark and redolent or t.u.. lu dimm-
iiom af1: only about forty.eight fed. !>I.jl,llll'(l and
elevt.n feet high, Thc twch'e pill .... IliPllOl'ting
the roof are rich in ean'ing and loOme have ril l
at tJle COniC", or UU! tal"itall,
In the SIlIIct.unry It 11 atatue; or 1!OUf'lIIt. of
Buddha, On either .ide or it. III Uie aad of the
ahlca. ill. chapel ee1l1llled with man'elIout 1(,'\I1p-
lure In the onc on the lIorth lit two 1110$1
portly lip.,.., lhe female ,"" a child on Iler
k_ and is ammiJl(: It ... rlth a toy. 10 the 1OUt11
cilllpei two male figures c:JlIIIY like position.
The beauty of this ea"e ill due to the painlinaa,
KpeciaIly thole on the eriings, FOI' the most.
part they areouly drC!lOJ'l.th'Ck"NII_,mt! paltenu:
but 10 aPJIl'()prialciy plaeed as lo ai\"C an t:J;.
tmJltly finished look to ea\'e: in {act. UIe
ea'eel .00 lUTfIn,gmK'nu of corrIldete bib .....
176
My l'URrilN'WtI 10 AjrlnW Ifnd Bag"
('an be bell understood rrom Iht. ca,'e than rrom
IIny olher nt Ajanbi, A very great deal of tile
painting .till rnDIliM, In the banmda the
pattern on the .... all ean be rollowed,
I nsid(', the c:eilinJ!'i of the fPl'at ha1] IInd
the Ante-chambcr, shrine, .od are aI]
adrnif1lobly designed, IInd though, in
the )u,11. blackened wilh 8mukc, Ihey
mlln)' exnmp]flI: of floral fll!COrntillflll,
and flying fljJUl'CS. AI\d othel'll .... ith hwn.an
and animnl head$, but the lower extremities
ending in IICI'OU work,
It is tbe only mve lhat f.rapl!fltf; or
painting in the sbrine, the ili", being tspe-
dally tine,
The palntin;: hi the two ehapels is of a
tone trlan II\OIIt of tilt: ottlf'r wan I_lit. '"'"'
is rul('d .. ith .st.4ndillg tlgures. many of 100u
.. omen. IOIUe with IIUl'tOh:s round their hUlb.
'111\ b posaibly of \.Iller d.le IIl/tn lhe relit, P""
haltly or the R!\'('ntb century. On the righl ",aU
or Ule hldl if onc of Ule ITIO!!t intelUling fTO\ll)J
of now left, (>ne or the lJttwl!C'n
the aeoond Md tbird l'ell 11001'11 below t.ho
retinue of a raja. Ik s.alliet rorth on IarJrt
elephant with tlte umbrdJ". of,tatc o"a bis
JWI Lhe anJ.:lUA, j!QIId. in his band: '-hind hilA
1. an altffitb.nt ,.,itb ibc dlllu. (6f umbrella); al
ne


Tit .. Fi"at Pm.ad tif I "dimt Arl
hi. ,idC" I:OCI a ImeUM' wilh " rilkT now
and bc-fon, >I ...... 11" 11 mln 'III'ilh a III'kn
ht\$; on 1118 had" In frool ,II. lvane..- to UIII kn n"il
holSef. tlU) of them J!Tttn. on the J,'mI'n
hond hal"k "t the Raja. Thmareako
fourteen ml'n on f"ot. oI .. hQm eleven LQ bt
IIOIdiel"l. cll.f1'Ylni ohlollJZ ,hk-kb, lI.wltbrft t'fIl'ty
illt rollnd ont"" l"'nsllM with bufIC Vft\mns:
GnliOn Two .. h.we on !.he utrt'.DU" left
have swonb in _Ishudl. nine oUlmI b,'e Nepal
a"1Jl'd. koo'KII ... khukri or d"biyallln", but \' cry
long: Lwo other mrll plllY flule$, ,,1Ml ClOt OCJlll"
linlrn (dhaL: and dlsnle),
lktwo thCI fll'lt IImlllN"ODd ttll doon reJlfe-
IItntl. with 11 ronl-mliUfllllitrll worthy or the
Chine.', rinl' with fllA.Dy f\llh AI'" in it.
,", hoftt with lhrct mutll, a job ,.il. and IIn NII'
behind. and nUed toWllro. the &tal. wilh tell
matku., or earthen_re jal'll, man III It
... iU. km;r Mlr, ... bu H l'",yln;i. In
rhandra, tl,e moon. IIllgu,.. w,th .e'"'-'ft\t
bdllnd him. I. n:prnmttU ., rol
&0'l1l'1:'<I by another fiMum. 1\ 1lIIp .... ja and I,;'
" 'irt: in tlw:- '!falel' 111>' to d ..... the boat
."d below is n:pl'Ull:nttd In U.e ,,'ater .. ntllhtr
fiIrut'e. wiU, human and IonJ tad. 011 !..hI!
Id!., III the din:rt.ion of the boal', CQUnIe. "
Uuddha OIl. the ann", and a fI/fU1'C wMShll'pinj'
him, nocbaI'l'Mnvl"lItirmnllypainlJ'<l. TIll"uppu
pari 01 Ulb wall k eovl"ml1fitll
The' long pcwtb of too!Iing in l'a",,' daLing
from a100ut .0\.1). 000. oRc:r .. -cll pl't':M'!"etl examp'"
of dllunling f\oraI dM'U/'RUc>tw in hlUf'. TI,t!
1"1r.'ular panclt .re ""d')' Bue. In lllt!
apnndrib. brinl; partic:IIh..,'y IfI,IC>(I and full or mo\'e-
nlP.JIt. Intli"idll.l l flJUI'tt an: n:tnllfbblt ((,or
clt' , -t't thl: IIP1)lll'l'ntly (lODI'
out of his way to ill,'e:Ill specially difncull jIOIIt5:
\\'0I1Uin IlrOrlrattnJ[ heI'!\Clt. mln _k ... hoockd
naras, 'II' wlIte:r<1Oprites. afl:' RO<JCI rXlllnplo!.
Tbr W\>nUltI standing I\'ith hl'r krt helll up
I Ql I,it.aJ pit' of the rtt't
beinJr U ""ell tI"""m lIS the hand .. aD,1 tlK' WOIIWI
ill lhc .,..1"1 iJ; plt:tWnJ:; and life like.
In thl'! ten land reil Ill'(! r .... srmrlllt of 11 k>Ill/
IwnlttJ in!O('riptioll in lllUll! 1'1:11,," 1111 a .Iark
grotlllll. and $CIIltcreIl Over Ihf ell\''' on tlte
p!\lntlnR*l ""' or I'i!;"ht illlierll,tjtllll. TIll'!
dlAl'Sckr of tJlC IcUm I, _b:th Of r,cl'rnlh oen
tury. tJull i5 to $AY. probably b.h'! 11uIII the
C!XQI,.lioll 01 lJIe ('11,\'(1. GenrTAlly lhe in..crip-
t.Wm rtfM' tG the n&n1Ql of kill"" UIc: of
and diicipla of Ouddl ... ,
In OQ lht rh:ht-Iuuul .i<!c (If Lh .. wall,
tJll'rt iI tmnous pict"rt of a kin!: lhree.lJonlnl;
QIIO: ot bnulitul CWrl wJ>t.
".
J


r ~ . . ~ \JO Ill' ......
< , ..
.. --..... - ... ~ - ...... --
. ..,.... ...
'-. ....... - .. ' - > . ,
-
-.. _-
~ ~ . I , .... "nil lit .... ''''
.'w ... -.
<
1'llIf ,.',,,hlt Prriod '1/. 1/11lhlll . Irl
'"





One day Buddha was PUSinl along the king's
mMgo fI'O\' es beyond the palAC:c wbCQ the kil1l.
..... o .. "' u
who was hOODc to
Duddtu.'. preaeh1ns.
sent his mOll beautl-
tul d n c i ~ girt of the
court to tempt him
&om the palli be had
ebOK/l. But , be. in
stee.d, no IOOncr saw
him. than ahe ldl
wonhipping at hit
fm. Sq angry W&I
the kjng when be
)mew that. Ihe had
r..iled 10 tempt Dud-
dha.. thtat IN! threat
ened her with death.
In thtlreseotheproud
king iJ _n gnuping
bi. ..ord while be-
fore blm in auppUca-
tWn knl!da the dllno.
ing girl. ami arouod
them. ....er:ping. IU'e
otha' wnmm. \:ay JtnuIge!y. damp h .. iOUN
inlo the pIIlntinJ in 'lIdt way thnt it it tbe
king'. bead thAt is cut off.
,sa
Ir'irw,' Pmqd o/ I HdifJ" An:
Nt:J:t on the right of thb lreseo is depicted
the.toty of menenF' telling the king of.aml!
Icm .. Mob he WIJU!!lt&ined.
It .n oW man, calm and .elf'I. d, but
U,rouI;b his troubled e)'OII, twpelas
And, .bo'l'e .11. the QUtspteld ".hn.
tI.e need fot .bsolute /lOOndOllD'ltftl of hape
which he .. isher to eon'l'c, to the king.
On the right hind .. ",11 of dark cdl by the
.ide of U.e IInle-ch.mbt.r in cave 'l, .. here n O
lisbt. ean eyu reach it.., b square palntillf uC ..
,ich lady by women .u.cmunts,
Ilrqm:;ng to "uit UuddhL Unfortunatel, I
found it impclllLlible to ffiIIke tompll:te copy,
at m' p"pt.r was nOl 'uge enough. tbCl'don:: I
J,ad, to Jntenl my",U .. ith the middle portion.
J"nylng out IIOmc or the aUendAnt. find chiklten.
The of lhIs paint.ing .IS 1akI in the b6l'.lIda
of bO\UC and . how. t.he wood and .tone
tmurc of those d.,.., as do u.o the
up to the pund in (ront. 'nit. ground is
Indian red, very tofnmoo colour for earth in
AjlUlta rrCOOCl, and it it 5prinkled .. jth
trom .. .hieb twinell into tbe window.
ChiIdrm are pJayina: with bobby.horse and top$.
Th" lady mWlt have a &ood and dtvot.!
followu of Duddha, (or abo,e. in the r'i&btband
come" honl"ll a boy dcb&. Ilu On. mw;Uni
10'

were 80 mul thal Ihey luwc worn ",way. And the
"l"peArtalmost nude.
I _At !J,e estreme rii!hl t'Ild of Ihe.
I;I"I:II<leJIl'IIlOOl'l bill In'_re ft.t AjlUlta is cave I.
whillh 1'"Id probablY lht last exeavaled of tilt:
...,r;('II of ll"tllty-ni nc ClIVI:!!.
11li, bihlltll or l'On,-eulunl abode the
nlOllL higll\)' omnment.ed and tlnl hand&MIle.1
exterior. Rlld it ft]kd with
They a", an uample of the highnl ,l.aJ)(b,rd of
Uud.Jhlr;t art in Indin-a 10 high UUlt
it luu ICA/'l'Cly. if n('l". been sul'pll!iK\l.
The of Ihil e.,,-c b dtsi,lrllell.
the .ariety tombined with lUffieietll
for IIn.i1itcd.lU11.1 PI1l'J'106(ll prolluca 11 greIol licit-
nese; of en-eel. Il is th\' only example here of 11
deeol'llltcd ... itJ, 6eulpture.
hI front of the Wl'Ilmla tJ.ere luu btell " l)()rd,
by two fld"lIJlcrd 00\11111118, or ""hid.
(l1Ily fmpenu Qt the bn5cII. and elegant. clIl,ltIIls,
like thor;e in :! remain; at cnd. Qut-
aide the barandn, there is .. room ""hOle optn
\'hlllt is 6UI,pon.ai by two pinal"l, Un:_ noon bemjt"
milled a (t'w and the ehlhomte entabldun'
or the is carried round lhe whole frollt at
lhf, SlIme \.evel. The roonl on Lhf. opens
Into nather. ncariy UlirtC'Cn auld a balf feel
Md alt1lU6t tvrnpktely dark; Lloat
'"
..

~ ....
..
TII" ,,'j"ftti I'erifld fI/ IndwfI Atf
on UK' kit illto tll"O olbm toIfU':wb.t
........
TbI' . ix rill," whith 5UPJ)Qrt tl1<: "-randa ate
of thrff ur fOIlt' ditrtl'(!nt TIle outer
pULar< Ilf'(' nlcrely sqUIlft: plel"!i: hut they llleJ'l.'llSe
in nl'hnt115 (",m UIl" fblnks tOUltn:nIJ'e, wrn-J'f the
cimllar Art' elahol'llt.cly onullntnwd an!!
the lfI'1Iudly bold; thus dm..-ill,!:! the
1I11CnUOII of tht Hp1.at()r towa,.,l. tht l'a\"I'"
nI"in c:nlnme.'.
The hl'autiful dOPr"-Cly oriJrinally COI'Cred
with thin ,,hitt 1,!a5w, Il JIUIl nlllnr tntll,.U of
,,hieb mnAin_ and the eatVod "Pln!l IIll)d
deromtions n,JUlld the <loot 1I'c:rt' abtl onee
tOivurerl. It 11"11$ 5t'Uillturtd in liimpl(' and JUb-
duoo (lI$hi.;m, in ortL.r lhaL tilt' Jlat on
the .... Illb millhL appear more harlllofliOUJ and
.lriking_
CIlI'e I eoullUns some of thl' mMtl'!'-
r iettt iu the worl<!. On tile left or the central
IIIlfjnc: ill the pichLI'(! of "riut:e. litmtllma and
his ",if." Yl\lI.hodhara. It ill I1lO!It likely tJlI'ir
1lI1l1Ti"u.-, 'I'he priuI'C in hill hlllld blue
lily, Tht bridal tTOI'I'M Im'h III al'l' u","1
in India t<>-dll)"
In tht "P1M:r part of the (ratO IJudolha iI
llI,oaill 1_lntol'd 1U a 1 .... 1' ... ith vll.5hodlllU'll
on a much frnDlI"r .,u, Ib "p.-n to IooIc.
, ..
.10wl\' upoo the rutility or th"" worid ..-Wd, Is ..
rcpre8etltro around him. two UIIIICI.
one i. domini"'g for night. 1O'hll .. the othl!l' .tttJee
eontenteclly upon the n6t. l'o;,rhnp8 they 8)'m'
boiise the divelR recllnjpl of Princ:e Cl'luLRmtI and
, . lUhodhllnl.
.,..,.,-
::11 J
.,-


The Jlrinrtl is pllintttl in Il Iii:ht flesh c:oI(II.r,
lluitl' goIdt1I. ,..hile Vuhodllllnt is le5I notice-
Able and or 11 dull colour. Slltldows have betn
&lippkd with bhiC. So wundmully is tbe M'Ule
that. in 'plle of the vnmith. the ooIour
ill ltill elra!' and vivid. )10111 p1'(\br.bly the
'pall his IIf .. ill thinlUlIg of 1ht' he
c:weu1oo it boltlly and ,..ith cc:lUinty. TbiJ
...

,
I
,
~ M ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' u . .
_ .
.. -. __ ..... ,,,-,
-
- . ..,- - ; .,-
.... , -, - -
". I .... ' f"',_
, .. 1,. E!.3ii! j. .
., }!e. i' ' f
l
,"

,.t -, .... _:.- - .'
ill :.... " . oJ, ..... _ ,. '
. 7 ,", .

, "- . ... .
'J -'- ,_. . .".
<a ....... , ......
_.



TM Io';,.",j I )triod .,J IPNlt.,. Arl
fl'e54:O is all example or the hithrst. tehool or
Uuddhin Ilrt In Indll\ artl.' r " Ilevelopm"tl l which
I'Oveff'll eleven hlltldml yo:llr5.
lltJlitleJ elaburale pamtiuj."II ,ul.'h a. lbt
w811ll nre "ill, in Ilodllln rcd
on whiLt' "oround. Sothlng ooukI be more
fllofCinatin$!. (or ooe is clIAbled thercb, to stud,
of pAinlinJ; ot the !ruco trom
fint to Lhe f1nillhed muterpiece.
At AjllllLM the IIrtiJl.I nut only depkted "am>-
t.ne '" n oeric:ol or oont1nuous paintinr but .bo
by means of A ,"nRle On the Idt
or the IInU:H:hnllll>er. in I'Il\e I, In 11 very dark
pljICr, if an anmple of this. the templA.tlon (If
lIudl Uul hy ft l>aillUnl:" over twelve feel b),
ten reel (set pllllc farint:!: P-fC' 7:2). The
h .... heen badl, .. mif.h<:d and Wunaged. ,,"d
Inight ft.U III any ITlCIrnent throu.gb its o .... n ",eight.
Dui OIIC! taU till tee 111111 11 is beauHrul e!lough to
mill: wilh any m..,;tcrpktt UIIII the wllTld ha..
produoed.
Under a hodhi-Itte in the InMUl1c is
IJlIddha. rabu Il,I1II
his f&et unehangul by the lempljl!ton. and homJn
aWTOlmdinll him. and hili IW\l1 Just toucl,illll Ihe
tartb, to bar wltn"", of this tnllh. In (rotlt it
'-lItitvl Mar. and, on f!ilbu dUe of hifD, hill
mOllt .!luring lItd,; to Buddha
, ..

.1141 I 'ilpr'illl.lgt.# to .' jlmla "lid Ungb
rrom 1Ii$ l1'\dJilalioM .nd hi,::h PUrpoIIe. AU
round horrible "od (eari'ul ('.rtHll!1'tS an! makinv
... dTorb to lcrril'y him. W.trio ....
at him with Lheir IonS strai,ht .....
int: him " ilh dest"TUCti<ln, " ali(Jn ,I(llNhC'll ill>
j.ws, nne dt'\i], with "Y'"
ilnd j,,'fCII1 blAck crebl'O ........ ,Irf'il!he. hi, rnouth
wit h his llngen to n hideot .. lenJ!i-h Ami fl'Olll
t ht: m{l\llh ur ,,"other " .!!nnk/!, hIWUi:.
HUI Bmld]ul trtlm]ull nll<l lit IlClrfL't'I mol:
n! Ore lily th.t repoee:s OIl Lh<: p],cld w"tHS. .u
lhe or the flame; 1111l1 .. lhe .\Iuunt
l;\'eI"I:IIt .0 lJodhisal ... " MU ullIlW,,I: ....
tilt' i"Hl ... aU. that .. urnund tile nni,"*" hb
and mind are ilL perlcrl ral. withnul fear
Of auxiety. Md t'ntirely sclr.poIIC'Ssed.
' 01




Os weitc'm aim- of lhe hili
the, la\l 01 :!I . 2'1, 'la. 2!l. 26,
and 29 1I"f'1'I' lhe
fourth . nd ('elllur"" "".D.
tu (nee towal"\f. the ('11.'11, they 8J'(' briuht
.. ith .uuHght in tilt' monllog, but
htc'On'!e, darker IQ Uu: dal' \Idtt 011. Thus IJ,t:
' UIl Jhina IIIIQ '"'11<'- of in the mominsand
into oth<!l1l ill the att.enlOtll',
On the other sidt'! of Iht tl.rlidt. /t"l1Ip. or It
the tip Q/ llifo lIIOf>,,', CiCSltUt., ore tile
monl5tie hall5 "m.,\)c,.",1 1 10 0. IftCllt of ... hieh
belong 10 tht 5C:\t:"th 1".1 right
10 them, at the ullK!t' C'J:tmnity. ;. tile (ourth
j!1"Oup ulndiQ,lf "llArt (1"0111 the ()f.her three I nd
rncing the .-lting sun.
Thi$ illl:lude. the bib&I'D or nurubr-rcd
:.:0 to In!1 the ""'flliik(nl rhl\it)'1I hOOlll'
which al'l' Iht' Iaat and moIIl dabo,ornt(' nI tile! (0Ul'
groups: ..... ne of U,c.m I'I'mllillcd unflnlllhed.
C""Y'& !!1.' Thu hillAJ'll ("we !tl wu ",l
ron.itll.'f'l\bly rurtJlcr alung cm t.be w I,,", fide of
ltIv Pi/rnwv:u 10 Ajalllo oJNl Ba&1t
tM hill, jlt5t ana 0;01 ... ,1011 of Numbno !
011 the cast. It ......... richly car .. ed: hul hM bern
largely dClltroyed by tile atreams "hleh rail trom
.bo .. e in tM r.iny -SOli: the {.Iling rodt:o
h."e dafMgM the front, IInd the hnn.nda h..$
been ilroldual1y obIitenUd by depoJits or mild
and ml&Sy vegetatlon due \.0 the .... aw.
At CAclI enrl of the '-raorlll i. " IIJIllIl t'OOm
l"IIistd Ultee .teJl!l above the ler e! ur the floor
with t .... o earl'er! plU.n.nllll front, orer .. hieh i. a
6C\Ilpturnl frieze.
Dct ... tcn taVeI! 20 alld 21 the hill a
litUe. and IICft '" gt"CRt wat.:rlall detttnd. in tm,
rainy RUOn. The fJ th. group. !J.
23, In the ... est:em hill, all paUy rHtDlhlc
tlU!l "hapel' in f'aVQ 1 ",od :I of the eNlt.ern hill,
and Are a,"",nsed anti finlshed In imil., It)'1o or
rich ornamentAtion.
The IuIll measures lirty-ooe ftct Iqunre aod ha.oi
cn..nben .... ith pillated (MOt/! in the middle IInd
the uf the .lllt Ic:ading into a 1.1 ;
besidat ""hich there ""' four othu cell. on each
.idl) or the C8Ve, nlll pllllll"lln front of thl) cells
at the bAck are sunnountild by tome I'Cry
cu\-inp. The root of the hall ill IUpported by
lll"clve eolumna, omamcnkd in a .tyle ,imU., to
tJ\QIIe In alve 2.
Tbe to the it unIiIliibed
'"

A
..

i
1.lUI 01>'1.' III AilftWf
and the .1hrine .. huge Ilgure 01 Buddha
l itting croM-lcgaed. There bu been .. ""fit de-I
of p.inting hen.-: bul mo.l of it has now gont.
The doorwa" that lea<k into thk QVC 11 11
de .... nl. and dates fmm the IIUh \W aidh
toenlnry' .... D.
Sume piecu or the root p!lintinll iNide the hall
are dIU dillinet. The. billet look III fresh M if
l hc1 hmd ju'l. been puton. whel"tN Wet
more ltuln .. tbQUlllnd yea,. ago. On lilt Id\.
Ulltt'! .. few ftgures of Buddha and r.iNlltinned
flgun:t. Not all the _db of !.hit cave
were palnd. Ami it is vt:ry inlaulina to -
how P!'rlionl of gfOImd made pnOOlh for paint-
I"", ""main to be ruled in with and
polo"
H._Twenl14two if anotber small
jU5t IJe'ICSlkcn feet IqUnl _ilb lour uu.finilihed
celt.. nIl! whole cave hN the .ppeal"lnee:
of being unll.nithed. Thee a. 1>0 window: hut
.. very Ilfelty dOOT and .. IlRfro'" bamnda, of
which both pillAnl bTOken.
In t he lIUIcl.wuy is an im.age 01 Buddha wllh
hill fed. rut-ing on the tutu... the Buddhist emblem
of C'l'C:atiyc po..w. On the ",hl tide .... paint.-
ilIi of Kvm Buddha-. each unciel' bit bodhi.
tree: and with hit name painted beneath: ..
Uiflbl, Sikhi, DiIubI.u Kanab Muni, K_
'"
.1111 to .'jflldll ml(1 }Jot"
SaltYA 1111111, llai.t.Tem. J11lt1 tbe mlll)m/l
Il4nll: bf. KakUSII.UtIA.. TIll' DudlibL.t
tJunkll;
" WhCk'1.-l'f a/l or 8 ".ldll_
rompl"lc il, beatitude. nnspicioll.uu:., and p:ood
,uIII his i, hritlillnt lhl'UUllh
vlrtUct nnd orgnns. and k tlehflht9llmr
to tho "yes."
inli<,:riptions to lil(l8e in eM-" HI lire
(oulld III the left end of the I",raml. or ca,'1!
They are of ell,,'"'' linl" with only 1\ re ...
wllni. In ncil line. .... ritten In Snmkrit, And mld-
ing 5OI1W"tlung like this; ;_
" 11,1" Dlt'ritotiuu girl Clr _ IUlll'lllllpa hJ
, , ... ( rAl''lIUy JlrQl l'11IL_W.
great J, ..... .won or,.. UI'I'UI<I fOI'I or
(lid"" . , . .ot\ or J)hu.rmalllil\lU , '
""Y the mcrilQ/ this be f<)r cxCO!!Ut'ut
10 nil .elltienl h\:ing. beginning" ilh fnlher 1t.1I1
moth('r, dc."
r.wl!: 23.- l'his Il little iwl(>w the le.'d
or is AnoUlel' billlllfl, allllllbouf
Ctc'lIqUAn:: A/HI on' .. I,,'ch'., higlo. with t .. d"C'
pilt.rs.
1be rOUl' n1&.<QIi"e roIumns in tha INUllllda, 0(.
dCllign suilailk to 1"1)('11: aft'hit:illl'r, 11ft
&till in prrlty good eoodillcm. They ate "e!)'
timilar 10 the piDaB uf 1 in the eutem
'"'





I
hill, IIlId elllOffially 8() in rap;!&! ... hM'<' fouT
dWU{, al lht rot'Il<"r uphtdd Of,UIll't' m.cltl'b.
On earh we .Jl ,IOUI' j,: IflIIU1.iUuI milk
Rllul'<!I ... ith ,. oohnl-snllkc hood. T.o .inlr1y.
ra .... Nl ""'ulll!) ..... livILt ltw, int.r:rior. At ('ith",
rnd or bfInlll<ia i. l\ cl'llpel.
This (IIIve b mort' f)I' unfini.hr- I, "it.h!Jut
IIJ' l""Ctl ill tbe: $IU)(.'tUAl'Y. ll t '>(IllIe
.. lhe pin .. ,.. Q.l'e mll'rely Jlul ll('(l, in I)lltrn the
"Arvillg I.IITlool'uplttA!. Oil the "hlle. it
tl""t it b the carving pl"OCQl: tl",t lu'" taken the
IIl'ft1tert amount or time and 1,,!JoII,. 'fllt'fe
"-XilILs no trace of pcUnting Ut llllY JlIlrl. of t hl' bund
inJil.
l 'An: 2" .- It roml'lcla!. " .. ,'r 21 .... ""1tI )al'e
bn:t. the Inrgn;t alld one uf the "10ft br:aulIful
bill.,. .. ill the wllUk ollhc awes.t AjanU.
It j. unlike the otb('n. \\'11' Ik> nut know
th .. re.uon. lml .. the work was ltojlprtl
ht-rol"O i'OllIl,ldinn.
In lht b.l'lu,ll .. 11 .. :.., H.I'& IllI; pill ... ", . .f<)me f>f
whil'll lUll l1Iucll ,lalllJtb'cd: but m.1:nUy ' hay
I",vc ba:" rqulind. ' r lOC! bracket .till
hllOJ fmnt the lOll, although t he JI1It..'" .n:
a ..... y. 1111" Mlf\'l"O\ JlVUPI ... r llyil\Sf
fll1\lrft, kroll And leaf uruamenl.. a.lT uC IlIOtlI
beaul.!ful "'otk-fl'IlUbhip. The .... (}Irk vII lht dour$
windoWl abo is very elaborate. n ...
'01
mrnll rf:mind onc of lhose: in tf,ve Ill, and
-'0 lhe t1 appareatl) no later than that.
IMide the h.n only one column hM been
linishtd: nor is An)' part of the interior tQm-
pldd,6rcuttd. Bec:au!Ie of the , 'ery unliniAhed
sLtlle of the intmor, we able to IeIIm elCact1y
tin .. the-e elll'cs r..o"4t IIneY"
"'"re ""lout in the rod,; wilh picbxetl And then
the intcrve'l1il1g wllllg were brnkcn down, exeepl
where required for rupportinq- oo\umlU, There
iA no of painting Id't llIIywhere.
C" ..... U.- To thC' right of the gnat dt.it)'l'
temple. Numbrr e of the last of (avt'S nt
Ajmt. .nd liU.1e higher up. ill lnuail billAn1
tmJp1e now known ...
The batandA opens into .n atclo.ed eoort in
tronl, from which a door leacb into the nut C'IH'c.,
l!5. The b&tanda hu la "haDlbrr wilh three ccln
.t I he lell end,
One tf,11 e1lter the ba.11 h)' three doors, It i,
twcnt)'-ftix (ocl IqUlUll, IInd has ndlhet' CC'II nar
p,netUIU')'.
So paiotinp ate lnund bm:.
('"". tourlh mighty clWty. le,nple.
which is the IMt 8ni$bed Jhnne', was ueto,.t ... l.
it Rt'.ms, tor the worship of DuddhiAt monb who
liud la the biharu .t the' C'AItem L'f\d of lhe
hill, It roobl)' krminatrs tbe wcstC'fll hill, IlfJd
.. ,

J
1
,
,,, .... ""(.""' ...

,

lily I.tm Doll' aJ .Ajnnla
it; faced and lit by tho: 1ll11, and must ha"f'
bc:cn IIsed e!lfIC<'iaD)' rot morning
prayf'n.
Prob4bly the arcnl Chinese pilgrim, IT(,IW!II
visitl it in Ute yur /'I.f() .\..0.
TIle Iowa p8rl of Ihe is bf1/ken ""'ay Ill'
the r.1I of rock.. nOOt.'e or poeihly through an
Dut, round the Rl'<:htd.wil'ldo'W it it
still l)!'lf('Cl. CQ\'eral ('hieB)' with figures of
Buddha. O,'u the porch tbere wo OUff
music gnikry whi<'h nmsL have t:xlcmled tht-
... hole "I'8y although thd is na05t UDUJUll.1
in the At AjllllU.
TIll, ItIllgnillnt chllity" is larger Utan I'a\'t 10.
In Icnll'th it is nearly lixly-cight (eel. in breadth
fect. and il, hl'ight thirty.one feel from
the ('tom of the fl.I,\'C to tJlt roof. ,\$ in other
ca ,'er, t.he .tont roor represents wood!'n sI I'ltctul'C.
1'.-enty4U: pillo", Aurround the nal'e. and run
1"011nd UII:: .tupa at Ule bade, nehl), and delicately
l'an'ed in the fit)'lc uf tbe co.Iumns 01 can e,
II1lII{;eI of nuddhll are p\aec'd in Utt
.hrine IInd IIlong tbe ",ails IfrIM'te monks. .tudcnl.8
and novices stood together in Jlrayer. In the
I'etlt.re or the slulMo Buddha sits on 11 tbrone with
lions upholding the _to alld hill n:sLimt nn a
Io:ItUl flower borne by two $mAll figures ur .IlIIIo.C
kiDgs.

.03


The in,te.tI of being painted.
1:O.cml willi sculplul'CoI, among which !\
mutirlll figure of the dying Buddha. more t./Uln
fed. loull'. roembulins one of
nnb rffitury inl4ge. 1t.KerN IJIIII. por1.nl)ing 11
.1Ibjtt:t in ItO hUIlC " of lItone wo no more
diQkuJt I., UICSC' Rl'tist5 t.hAn can-inv upon "' ... '(.
The on whk-h U'I! figuno lhco pillow .. t hi"
head .ntlthe water pot by hill nrc jlul suell
P "'"''' be round anywhtore to-<iA, in India.
Above "nd bdowtllt dying mASt.cr lire hwlrirtds of'
natun.l1iud tlgura 01 SOmlw-strJcken mania
&ri"ing on.' the Nirvana of Duddllll.
On Id! Nde 01 tile ea"l! iI another huge.
bq-rdkr, n:pl'UCflling the lcmptaliClo or Uuddllll
by Mu. the wiclttd ont, IlIell as It painttrl in
e&I' C I.
Hem, In thi8 last group of eaves, including
NUlaber 26, 5e\I11Ilurc took.
Ulln paiuting, for it .h, .. II&fJpt'fIIl tJUlI paintinl;
"1'peaIS ill the world earlier tban IClIlplurc.
A "try great many i.n.smptiorul ate roond in
thi, tl:'mple. On lhe rront. ... !.ring cl p"" of
l,he Suptas or DuddhiiU and of UholJinja, the
mlhbu,r or
.nil of his .on Debanj-.
wlw flOMtruct.ed the temple. Then. over tJte
riljbl MtIe 01001' f,tIt twent)'-tevel'l lifteli 111 Saakrit
\'en;c, II.IIU with the elI:c:qltion er illl .... in Lha ftnt
, ..
I



and in lIOtlIe of the lo ... er line.c, it i. f-.itly legible.
TIle IIlphabel is .imiillr toO thAt used in Clwe 11.
Some or lhe inscription n:acb like Ulis 1"T
.. nu. temple i. e!l'tablithcd for the WdrllN
(ot people in a hill ,), luneful 'frith the noteJ; of
various birtk. &lid wrn.o tII\t:f art fi.Ikd with the!
IOwl(l. of 1:O .... t.llI (cltauris) , . and "hieh
inMbIt.cd by the Yogis ... .,.. ... The.5&me
aggrieved Atharya having taken n,'er the lIJ\][iety
ollht people ~ i n the Supta . ..
, ..

,
And on a plillth under the feel of .. uJl
fIlanding Buddhaon l"northe farade readJ:-
.. The Sllkya Vlkshu. Uie Bhadnlll.a CUll'"
kll.Nl'. meritorious gift, ma,. muit is in
this be ror lh4!' atlAinme!.l of In'premt! kno ... ledge
11)' all wnli.e!ll bcinp. mother and raO.er being
first."
And as.in: .. 'nll: /lDudlcst virtue resulting In
HOOII eannot be: D.coomplished while enga,,'1:d in
worldly aRail"f. TI.e ""ult or tile act.ioll1 or
" .1\0 are exalted by virtue ten<b to the
enjoyntenl of happi_ by the
ThUc ebaity.Lemple 'fi"U one or the !ut. Qe-
euted eAVt;5 lit Ajllllta, and el.borate work was
expmded upon it iu omer to give weigl.t and
grandeur, lIS in the)Pt: chord slruck 011 11 mm;icaJ
iTUltf\llrM:nt.
Left of :!G. is the last Number
\!7. The ... bcMe front i5 broken n .... y ...-ilh huge
meb on the gmund IUld bkxkiug the entrnnee.
and .0 mllkin!r. cumrortltl)ie honlc fn. tigtlV.
It meaIlWU about rortyfour feet wide alld
feet long ; but hu M;\'U been fini5hc:d.
Inside are r __ tdls.. It has no pillars.. Nut.
to lhi5, hllth up In the ICII.rp of the 1'Ol'k, flCtlo
dlAity ..... u Ixl."'n,. but nt:\'ef finished. 1t i:i IIOW
known u ,,11\'0: 28. alld lies hiah lip III the rock
bet"'een e8\' e. 21 allll
' 00
NumbcT:W IMf. in the wl'Stem hill. jw;t
.. Number 1 i!I the in Ule hill. It ill
inAeeelSibll\: OI'lty pe.rt of the tm .. ndfl of it WIllI
el' l'T eomptetea.
The .,-round for the WlIIl painlil1l:
by mixing day. eow duf\j'. hUIIQ aru.ililtie ltooes
t.ogetlltlr and laid on the rong h 'nnllCe of !be rock,
someLimes IIn inch or mure thick. Over till,
wu a whiu tQlrt.ing made of lhf:i1linle. 1'hr limo
ill soaked in wllter for twenty-lwo dAYI. until it
1081:1 iu nirrneil and be<:omc. 11 clay. It is laid
on with Iloout. lhe eonsistency I1f an qg sbdl.
I had Q\&(lc ol'er twelve lugc: copies fronl th.,
wall and I ... ished I C!Ould Kliy tltere
mu('h hut Uling"l wt= becmnil\J: lea
(aWl\lmlJle c:ve:ry day. and I relt. even if J c:vuld
stay any rtalS III the e.va ol ,\ janta, I .... ould
not be ablr to all tl18t ( wilhed
tu do.
It ... as impcJQiblt to 118)" at Ajllnta.
8.$ provision. lint! mGnry hlld run short. Dudtihu
)liya Was gm with nK'. flllithrul unto the cnd. and
I had found him a good rompllplon. SippinJ,f
mcmling praisd to Allah. he would .udlknly
brn.k off 10 sholl1: .. Khall&, khan ... breakfll!ll
is ami Ultll. wbile _ ate ... outd luten
with ao appcannce of intere6t ..... !lilr I talked of
my work. Allholl}:h lit- diet not undtrllt'lIId Ill!
'"


j l v l'11grim.tJla kI Ajanl{J !Md Bag"
importance. And th4!n he U5Cd to .. y: SAhib,
1011 are the IUf1 of hi.lt.."
\'1'1'll he \.;Il(:W the euct. day in early J IUllW'J,
1020, on which I intentlcd ta quit the Q1,vet he
1rtI'0f'lUed his r..mlly. And tbe)' '1.11, wile, and
daughters. NlW me orr to Pahur. I felt ralhl!:r
Ad ., I IW.W the bulloc:k eart with my eopiell
aJooirly me; throufh the: gorge UK'
mountain. toM! besUl .. my trsck. )fOl'lkep
t'ilatteroed in the t::rta and paeoeh sereamcd 111ft
u they did "hen J arrived and always wUl do.
Bnnjari women moved flT4l.'1!: rully rJotog Ule 1'OaI:1.
Ilnging ; aud J set out ror tbe eavell or Dagh .


. 08

,
,
,
I
,


MY rlUUIlXAOC TO B .. Cn
IN olll the (Man f.:mpire there Ire Oflly t.hret
placrs ... 1<00111'.1'1\11 Buddllul 11'",11 p-int-
illjl1 '1'0 .,tlll in o:uunce; nl'6t Ihe wellknown

r.t .\jllnla in the Dc:kkan, about U1ree hun-
drm mile>; tast. .. r Jlomu.y; IIoeWmlly. the Dagh
ai' e5 III Gwoauur ),tnt<.', in tM dinrid. or M-.lw ..
Q\"cr two hundrt'd And fl!lymiler north or Ajanta:
alld thirdly. the t-.,'ee: or Sigirilo. and .. t
Tnmankaduwa in the bl&lld or C('ylon.
The flT5l Inc.l but Qf th_ etWt:ll are wel,l
kno,"" by repute lit k:tit.. to the world, lnd nllgh,
tj,ough knoo<n, (l()nwllS or IIC\Up-
ami IllIiulinA whicb, nlthough fewer. arc u
intt'roting IWi thlllic at Ajantll.. ElIOUgh uf Ihr.le
andent I\tI' !cl! to m..pirc 11 pHt
I"dran AC'lulenlyo( ,\ rt.
j
,,"c tu." ,c heard that another JrOUp I'If
lluddhW. cave. rol)tainlna:: rrtltOe!i hAlo been
di . wcml by 11 .hcphI'Jd bo)', About thirty mile.
1I .. .y (",ell' Frrlll'H I'Qlldieht'try. in $QuU,
lntlla, but.. nnf..munah ly we dQ not yet know all
the- dettt.ill nf it.
Ihw,II'IlI .penl 11\1111)' JU.mlM COI.ying tile rrea-

31y to Ajo,w, I",d Bag"
lheAjllllta WIIlb,. in themiddlcot JanU&l)'.
l!l20, I M."t out (or the cavO!'!J or B.s::b with 11 kMP-
Al:k on my hIId. IInd roll or 11Ilpe!' in my hAnd,
to mnkt' drawin)t'l. but tor only 11 ftw days,
This time 1 wwt quite mile. not taking C' \' C'Il.
1It'I'\'Ilnl ,,'ill! me, From UIfl j llnetion of Oh\1A\'.I,
IIMk in n IllSl $mall 'toek ortinned lonJUt
.nd the llllin cuI throul!"h roelul.nd mile
nfttr mUt or .... OC)oied hillllllUl. hJ\ ving IlrouOO Ollt'
of bridges In the worM. over lhe great
River SUlllall .. it broul!"ht lIle in the IICtemoon
10 MhoW'. thl! ne..rert I'tIU .... y .t.lloo to the ravel,
whirh ()\""Cl' miles di.tanL
TIlt' IU1wl lArIrn of Mhow is on the _y 10
lu,lore. It rontains tilt, Hrit.k;b amtonmw11l11d
IIOIbU a m,>tor mill sen'io;-e of ODe but only. whicll
rutlll on", C\'!'fl' day 11 hill" C'IIJkd nttal"
bout thirtyrour mib dillt.nt. at niJ:ht,
n,iA blls i. Mlldc la CArry twtnty prolllc, who
hI IQWjI r"rlng till' engiot ... ill a cllllmb6ilc;
I IUIII ret\l(IlI la regret l hot there wu no upper
dtork (or A. much gt'tIIlu lIomber
Utan U,(' 1,".)0 l"Ouhl cnrry had srathl'Ttd lpq"'"th<'r,
"Iutling ,,"ult their hol:C:- and !!!lndla.. ulr'nliIJ
.ntl hCllUka.lIll" h\' .. Of Q..l: houn bd(ln.' 11,1' but: W ..
d\tC 10 .tart.. Thoro WIlI". j,,,'t on the tJu...
and n"thing but m)' EUrop'IIn .!lit 0( clothe.
helped me W Will the stilt next to tht driver.
It " ... a glowing sunny "O:emoon in JlUllUlf)'.
The I'ehide did not lf1l\'el (NIt like. l .ondon bus.
but rul("r thlUl. bullock QrI or. t&oga, Ilnd
l>aee w ... I''"f)' ddighlfuJ to us we .,., looking
around idly at the tkrk Ilf't'M deb.dar t l'teS, the
&m&Il day hull and the deep blue Iky WW..m1 the.
"".
Some of Ihe inlide dlllUcd to one
.nothtt all the lirnt. but 1 roukl not uodeMatlll
any thin, they 5D.id. Ih"ir lon81.1(' being ab.olutdy
.lnmge to me. while othen sal chewinlt little
rods 01 wgar-eaue anti smokinJ O,dr booQld.
10.1 in Ulought.
'MIC buutoPIIe<I .bout tiel'CIl mile!! from Mho ... ,
nQr a dean.looking ... hite dak bungalow and t.hc
vi.llagus rudlcd out to 5CC' Uld no\-d <'O'II1t')'anre.
We got down, nnd u we linloocred nltlideM in py
11"" with red. blu(". [!reCIl .nd yellow skirU.
tlrewlheir cl' eninll ... ter in pitcllt::rs horn UIt
and (1'OUl'ed .ome of it. ((lId .lId d ... r, Into the
acre .... ed.up pnlml or our h.mb. Then the tront
or the but .... , OfIC!Wd anti buckeu ut ..... t ....
plnahed into the whkh had wown loo
hOI. Men. woou:n .nd .... t<'hcd with
.1111 rriendly t"llrUity.
ReCresbc-d. we dimbed into OUt _Ill and pro-
ea:ded on the journey. "'lth ditttted tQWania
the .Wog 'Ull, which in <."OlU" wu blend of
'"
JI II PilgrimOltl IQ Ai,m/II ,rnd n,,,h
red and nl"h ao1d. like the 11l"1'phuro yolk of 11
brown ea.
All that gtori0U8 .. nd evt'tlin.g the
bus e.rried me fllrthff and lartber Inw thl" un
known lond. toIour amI 5lJuml were
o:qubitdy minalal. To the west lily thl" falnt
hlue Dindhya range., ouUinl'{lllgainsl " soft
.It)'. DUll uecndtd .-lowly into tJlt' .till air u
tllC: pasKd wilh n tinkling of btlts IlI\(1 the
notn reedpipe 'II'hieh the herd.boy plAyed aI
he IIIIt buddkd Oll the OJ<;', be.tlt. Onc heartl.1ao
!.be sudden stamperina of the allinltlllilo the l'0I\II.
sWe. The bir<b damOUl'cd fQ" the CQl.icst PQ!dtkln
on the tn.!U:h for tht' night" rm. Temple bdl.
ran, out in the disianct: IInd WClDk:n blew on Ult'ir
I'OIlI'iJ-sldll IQ announce tlnl "PI'roIIclt of night.
i-:\"erythin" It'U qui('!; .nd IOOmbre IIlI tile dt't'p bluc
ni!lilt .W!Ci on.
Now aPJItlU'td cJUltuf of a red
Illllf>td Iillbt htn:! IInd at W!rtd01U IInd tI(I(WI,
and ..
or lwo Idt the bus lIS reaclM:d
the nei,ghoourhood of hi. till-tiling. The .It)'
.bo"t' grew bml-Y sta",: dD'll'I1 below the
full of "'Qwwo"", t"hibdtd Uleir I'OImdcd
roJrml the NIIlllide in I .. nl) iIIumifUltion.
It p"IIUllr bunlinv IlIltcll I'QUIII!d lilt to look
th" anti I ... ' llAnJoe. jumpin, up allll
down Ilt il'l'CgUbtr dista,,=,- and el"err time wy
""
I
ill /I l'il,ri,lIagt ID 811111
up ther ",""Ied to us in yet Il fl'fth
.. W'Wp or "111agen l&.k.ing their case lIn'lUn!l "
hC'ap 0{ I'\Ibbi.h.lhe &lites from which
"'ould 'utilise lht I\eltl. At riliout cigl'l or nine
o'ffi;lC"k, .""11), on the ri:{l>t, I MW the IJr'kk PlI .....
or the ltnjo of 1)lulr. (:Olllo!OU$ gl1nnls with CUn.
.nd spC'IlllI were pacill$ around il:s willis and pIts.
Wc drove through the qlllelliitrteu ibAdC'd by
huge grandfatherly ben),.u lUld uhath trra with
knollN trunks IUltJ IllXUnant foliago!. wher.> birds.
monkey" and tiny creatufC!l 10\'e to weep and
IJloy. ThCl\ a few people bq;1.lI to pn.'IlI ut on the
nw.l. and. At ICI\gth, Wl.' dlik bun
RAlO'" .t Dlut. whit.e-wuhcd as all lndlau d&lt
!.oUJl,,'l\l(>w.
J IInd tfltering , room, I'ftlltd lor a
IICI"'IUlt Ami Mked for. hot bl!.th and a good 1'1_1.
But. It 10 lne pl'tolnlLl)', Il!l J bq:an to
prepaftl (or 11 bath. Uta; Den",,! hlt.bua we ......
everywhtre, Cur I no ... a dl.!.c.-uulon about
roe In Ikngali .4. little Iattr I eame
upou tbltt or four youlllf fIUlUantn vlgorowoly
lcUling ()II ebkken CIIrf)' and dlOpf. whkb they,
bdll,g- m odus. would not be IlIlowl'd lit home,
Thrir prokIIt\" myitif\td me until I lesml tbt ..
Ocngnlb "re in tht habit ut working for oOlr.r
people, they were doillg .uen lhin,s as te.ch.inl
tflf' n h.llf n aja'/! hi,

M1I 10 Aiollln tmd B/II!II
,,,ud looking ",rlu the l'()8t Onll."e OcpartmenL
TMy .. Illurested to bear or my jaurttey to
DAfth, and of them AT" intmsdy 6dted
.rid wanLed to come .. "itll rnt". because near to
u.gh l!l n grenl lake ill whirh fCJr 11 klllg ti.me he
had ebemhtd the ambItion to fu;h. :;0 no. be
-would gd. 11 rhanc:e to CIIt.d, fiDe fish ... bile J
worked in the CIIVe.. lJut i., the "nd he wu
arl1llc11.t.o CUll":. IUld .11 tI,c !>cbUl' tu di(.;llmulr
OIl' alto fl'Oln the JlJIII
expo-dition.
I did not know. but II! IIO(ln 11., the bu. arrin .. 1
a' Oh tht mAil Llngn Idt, wbieh IloeI LOwllrd.
HIII/h, and 10 have gOlll:' eheapl)" allll in C'Olllpanl'
I ahould b\'c I*' to 11a\,t " -lIited till nul
niJlbt for thc maU-tanp. 811t I Will anxiOUf to
hll 0" thftt SI,me night. fI(I It WIU IICCtSiII'Iry for
me: to procnre a l4nf;1l; .. jah" ta.mlI.<Jhll, hOln',er
.... taking place in tht ViUlljle. TarnasJla ..
ml'AM" great fUll," fInd .. jilt:,...,," Qpenair musit,
8inJling. !lanl'in" ririnkinlf And To
lhjj enlert.inmenL all the of t(J,", had
IOOc. and from it nothing f'()Uld dnl"" th"m ..... y.
Out rortWlaldy the: lkllJ:lllli tmLlcnulII. "'ho "' ..
th" Dllar n.jll'lI Nlleb-bnhadllr or mannger, toltl
me of .some: nllm "ho wuuk! go with roe w f1"d
- COOytylllltt .."d pl!rtitularly one lanp
man who ... _('!I ""flOWn l1li thto IMt 1'tIOIm-t In
,,,,,,,,,,,,,.
We knocktd at little mud hut till woman
,..-oke up from her ilceIJ ..... d jangling her b.ugl(S
esme to the door-and tokIlU: that htr hlRband..-u
d5ewhm nd when we got thtre ... c foutld he had
I!O'\fIl however, we tl'llCktd him to Olt jilt ... per-
foml&flte wht'f'C' ht iIIt quietly amokinf and lis-
twnf in tilt middle of It greul torch-lit t r,,"nl.
l lany people here (10 not know .bout Dagh.
but Ulty ha"t heard of a "m.1l town. Kuk.:hi,
farther on; to this mall, .... hrn we mentioned Ule
" .. me of tbe !o/aeb-bebadur. arranged to take me
"bout tllirty InllQ to " village .Iong the nd to
Kuksbl (or twenty rupees or 10-
Within /Ill hour he came to the bungalow IU\d I
ot illto Ult tangn. tot\ent .t the' bottom with
pile or $tn"" and dry ha)', whlth tht drhtr look
for the 11OI'$eI. We ttArted off on the long ro.d
between hig trees to llagh. Alttr passing lbe
vill.ge of Dhar the land lay bare, txC'Cpl for. few
0UlIJ ,;U.Jt:Ii ht'J'C and t ~ .nd stmcbed .,.. .. y
inddlnitely beneath the Immense crowded ~ k y .
thet throbbed wilh iUl load of orderly ~
Sum country and 1lpat'C cnricheo Ule mind and
broaden. tht-lOUl_ There ..... no IIOllOO nor OIO\"t-
rut:nt, nothing .'-e. jaekal', occuion.l bowl I'W
the , .... Ift CllutiOlU "on or. rat.-talled rOll a<'ro8l!l
the ro-d. My tanp mAD told me that jackal
ut fllll paaius on the len side of a man while
,VII P ilpill'lup-. to _.f)allM mId IJtIJl"
journeying btought him good ]uek. Thy Rlpe1'-
lJlilion o:>l'. and wt'IlppiDc lhe bb;n1;d
clORl' round me, (Of the: eold w .. or the kind
that penetrates to onc', bones, I feU u1coep
rtatkMly,
511<Lleniy I woke up in the middle 01 " rh-er 1.0
find tbe 'tu.tdily dmggillg Id "hile
thc langn. bulOp!:d upon thc roclc:y rh-cr-bo:tl.
Arm lhiJI I dl)Zt(l until Ulut came n .hout of
" ll-.l, hai, h.i I \\114t lIK ytIU dQing ! Whtre
ate )'OU png 1" and my m4n aboutcd bad;:
".Rai, "ut', the matter with you! Wt:nt
going to Kulahi ."
"You go thtre Df)W, it',loo tau; you
mU5t .... it tdl morning." J auCMCd ... hat U.e.y
were. .. yjlli ..... 1 ,J"Urnbied .nd .hooted. Thc:n
two mal looked mto) the lanlrll.nd I immlNhauly
IW.Md 1Nl torW.lithr on the-ir taccs. .. ltieh
riAulcd them, but what t.bcy IIlW my lOf'i alld
thklr: OVctColt., I.bey IIITItd .. tonbhed and
frightc:lled, and slunk bAck into , hut
.t the ""ay.de. They may h,,c beeJl limply
o;:bo_kidars orC'WJt.ona' men, but 1 nthet' lhought
thq> had ICCft the: maiI.t.anga flM' .00 ,,-,,1'1:
mindt'd to rob ..ne .l.Qy tnvdler at that bour
of nit'bL So we quiekly " 'bipped up the hone!!
and , ahoutcd U jaldi ebaIo. c:balo," lJO
quidd).nd _pal rl'tlm that danger.
,\t lIa"n the lIInga'n1an, Lhe h.o h0ne8 anti I
"ere tryin!: to Cfl,glllJide our lI!r.cpy
,..hen we toune upoIl 11 large rivc:r-side ,>illAgle.
"'hidl to1ntd intv 1nmlIint'. natural acthit"
The people were " ... hing Miht dow/I at the
_!.cr'. edge: and taking. thdt lilTIf' over Uae
'ICtIlPU]OI'. cleaning of !.hd .. IIlId !IOmt ""'ere
l'Ilthing. A fe .. men liUing on a boulder
" litue lI'AY (lut in U,e riv",
llu:ir let!..h wiUI bib! of twig ... hieb thty brokf'
ort nim tree. onrilanging Uu: bank., (or the
bitter nim juiee is good for teeth. Women,
wailing up to !Jaw and .. reruu), drAwing
ul' their mm. dispC'1'IC!d the doat::i.nt dirt and
then dipped In UII:ir pitcilU"" In the ,ilI.ge
"cre"nmnbel"or m\IIll 5hOJIUntl lhe people
wbo had t"\'dled by tbC" tat"" "hkh ac:com.
IJlIJlIIied the mAil idly. !.hei,
Lanpman had died tJlllt And the,' eould (,'"0
no fArlher until the. day" Out 1 WAlltrd to
/:Cl to Hllgh ., rtn much mquiry. found"
Mlilbomtdan .n Itn>ng atld big lIS quite to rrij:htm
mt', who ""AS willing to drh"e Im if I paid bim
odJ.
Undtl' !Jat lreea. as "e went, "ft"It vemiWoo
pointed 1IIt0lli: gods and godd",,-., pul then: by
the Hindu people or thlt part.. '['hey made lhe
llihDrucdan ' "Cry angry lIod. thinkina me "
::07
My NlgrimOlt' 1o tljimto and BUlA
ChriItian, he eursed the U"'ld,,, fill the _y. He
drove me swinly to a village ten miles ofJ,
clI.anged hones with Ii Ilindu, and calli.ng hlm
.. great b&dmub .. drove me on again.
Now-the Innd mountail\Oll5 and woodro,
thl!! hauntA or KoIes IInd Ohils. Il wild IUld
tribe. the aborigines. J bad ,limpset' or rough
hut. and Ilfien CIIught sigh or low
cuta with _mall. solid whcell. drawn by Of!!:
bulloclr: and \a.den with wood. Onee 1 ....
IUltonished to tee bow the goIdm-ooJoured man
Md wonllUl ... alld.ng bcaide a CIIrt n:$Cmbled the
flgwu I had KCIl in the AjMta i'luweI 0( lhe
earlier poiod; the .. oman had 11 .bMp MIC and
long, fine arclled eyebrows over lovely dll.rk eyes.
and the man', curly hair ,,&5 encirdcd by a band
or pahn-tr>ee lea,es and
l1Le road wenL winding up and up. and then
fell 5lecply i rite ronowed Iln fall indefinitely .
. \l length ... eautioualy we CllmC down .. slope
and reaclII groulKl the tallga jtrlttd and
the hone. begun to 10 t.ekwards, for there
acn:a tM fOid. l'ith the appearanoe &I I thouaht
I!.t flnt of a Crllclt in the part-hed ground, w ....
crut bnnrn, double-r.-d .nake, which had
noppi to liIIten in the middle IlC ita tacking
the toad. I wantl to kill it; but the
Muaulolan drive would IlOl:. let. me; he d.apped
"'"
MIJ PI""m",, to BOIl!
his band" and lhoulC'd until the 5I1Akc glided
slowly Oul or thl" way to tbe jungle,
Down ill the mlley to "bieb we no"
ri ... er. o\'ubung by t.reeI whOilO boughj mel
together, WI! gtlt do,", and let lOOIe the hcme$
to drink. the tanp-dril'u .te bil rried ,ice and
wm. and I opened rOl' mysdl " t in a/' tQnglle to
eral .... ith myl&<;t piece of IMf. After this .bort
balt wc WC!nt on flgain. and pruenUy came up
with a man IV'lIlking "ilh a little baggnfe and
with a gun In his hand. 1 p ... intl:!tsted lit
&ec:i.ng' gun. and when J heatd he WlUlteo:! to readl
Kubhi 1 invited him into the Will'- It was
nice to ha ... e a companion. espec:Wly DUe who told
l ie "id he I1IwllYs c:arriw a gun to make
nhib afraid of throwing arro..... Ue \QId me LMt
n few yeuw ago onc Hhil wu 50 outraput In his
<Wing lhat the Covenlment offered 11 Iarr- wm
of money to whoever would him, dead or
alive. The reward tempted no onc, lit
length. quite by t:hancto, an offiCC'r alight bUll b)'
the hand, and at he "u wrmchina IlimIeIl
cut ott biIJ hand, which he brought to U.e per-
1\01'$, and reech' eeI the re1l'atd. but nevu aot the
Bhll.
The 8 hib, he told roe, are exUemely duterom
with thdr bo ....... (or. oomillg
alol\i the f'OIId, they will lel lIy an arrow and bit

...
off It I'IOIR' or ear lII"iUiOUt tile. Ql.II.U ren.lbing (mm
the arrow mm",. He. terrified. nalurally
ellough. at this a$5lllIll I'rom Itn Wl5I'Cn enl'llly.
is IImri(Jus only to fly, /tnu drop' rill the batglige
be may be eanying.
My QIlInpanion et'Ih:rt.iooo me with many.ueb.
.. 11 the way to Ule next which \re
reached in the afternoon.
In tbi ,-lllaj.te--the nllme of ..,.-hich I forget.
but I think it 'KM SanlapW'-thc ,"ery pool"
peu:Ilnl,It,'e in a row orten ortwehoe mUll huulCf.
togrlht'l' 'lll'ith thdr pigs. cahes. pl3 anti don
key., Sc'lmt: eaf lhe: huts .... ere llbo II$C(I u .hop'
(01' selling food. pottery anti lacquer bangles.
nlere ... -u 4110 a smithy with two 1.4J\ga,hol'SCl
",aiting to he .hod. anti 11 tannc::r who sold skiN
(or drums. be:l.loW$ and Wllter.bilgI. I..ooklng at
tlrill onc c:oukI jllllt bow it mLlit
1IIIl'e been th_ndJI or )'tars itS<>.
1 IlIld the good rlH1une to Ond Ute maillan., ....
kepl b:.ek b)' ita hol'l(:ll wanting lit ... 'hoes. Two
I mndetIM:U.ird.
and wc tr'&\"elled oa to
noc artcmoon _ pused, the IlUn WtoS lettinr
.... tI the Jnggc.1 k'CnB)' gil'illl _Y to gentle
grem and d.mp (orut iaml the lAnp
1IUo1l fint bqran to muller, "&gh is nol "try
(&I' now, not voy (ar," autl at IMt _ arrived iD
210
lUll Pilgrl",OIt III Bag.
the village w1TOunded by a thlt"k forest. Bll4h is
.. bout. eight hundrtd .. nd filly reet .bove _
level. situated in 11 pltaMnt valley extending
nortb and 1IOUU1 Utree miles by an "'Crt,qe
of Gm' (lIi1e, and lit the root. of 11 low
lIIlIC of hills of the _them slope of the Bindl ..
!'I111P'> .bout 11 hundted feel high. which form
the westen1 bournf/lry. So rl'rtile it it with
OOn)'lln tree., pilpay .. IHSflgo. bamboo. sal and
bllnana, tJ .. t I "lIS reminded of 11 Omgal vilillge.
and it ..... AS IitarUing la me to and this I"'flI
\..Jley down in the middle or.uch arid
country as it is to a traveller in lhe desc:rl to UllDe
upCIollon oesi5.
At Il'ngUt \\'1' dro"e lip to 11 bride: and .ton/'
mu lime-white WMhed, .,hidt .tood up among
ton or hMnboo bullies. It was distinjuW1td
by tht symbolical .ign of the J:lindu Gwalior
Slate. two line black cobl'llS a crude
outline drawing of sun with eyea, 11051' alld mouth
JIIIinted upon it, and bclow-
BAlm 8l:'li'c.u.ow
..,., wriUm in English. Uinduslani IU1d lhuf\d-
m.ni (Unlu) " ':1'1111" 1 co.n be.t
tom'ey ii$AllpeanuK'll! by saying tl .. t it. recmbldl
nlOlll'-l), typil'Al .. ;ogn,h Wal' IMmorilU blWd.
);0, IIfler Il loag non-t'top jQUmt)" CroP1 11]'0 ....
OIl
MU Pir,rilJUJlU 10 Jljan" and BII8Il
throuih the to'i\"ll of DhA!' anr! o\'tr the TAnliA
GIIllt8, ha\ing Qpent tbe night in a taoga, crossina'
fldds, forest. "lid A greal mOlUltail\O\1J; tract,
not witJlout peru. from tigus. anakct and root
,,/lds, I IwI finally arrivtd at 811gh Ino;ptWon
8unp1a....
I entered and ordttcd 11 I"fIeIlI and a bath, IInd
while the MUllulman rook .. lid his wife were
eooking the one and heating the otber. and
although niglll ,..,.. already <:Groins on, I look
the hungalow gardener and ria.ltcd 011 iD the
direction of the cavtl, 10 excited wu I to catcla
jnlt a glimpec of them before going to bed in

We hutcntd along the road to the caves: two
OJ' thrte timer I was carried on lhe bNlld 1.IIIotk
of my .enant a('I'ON the Uachroati river. Hut
... e did llot aet ItS fill" .. the 1:II.,e, for night ... as
upon ua. a.nd lily gardener-guide pcNllt.OO out a
tow range of hilb and yid: .. naere.a.re the Paneb
PlI.lldlll but, Sab. we InUBt return, Coranakes and
tien are a.lready out." nle caves arc known
to ptopIe in ,.. the Bo.gh caves on acwllnt
or the cloIien_ to the village D.,tt. but locally
they are caned PMdI Pandll.
"'lItn J had returntd to t.lu, buoplow 1 ate
lentill and ehaIWli and ... ent auly lc:Ibed, think
ing how glad I wu to have at last reached Bash;
212
uod how different O,e people of the NllI'fl'IIIda
\'lLIley through wbieb I had pa.ued, including
BAch ibclf, where food. servants and friendli-
nea t'OUld be fountl. at. least (011 ceruin extent.
were from those of Ajllnta. ill Ihe terrible Dtkbn
mod neu the Tapti Valley, who ~ d do nothing
lit IlII for a "",,vdler. not e,'m gh'e him food,
TIle IleXt morning I \O'(jlce up early and .. .Dled
to get bold of some men to JO with AA' at onee to
the eaveI!; bu\ the dlOwJtitlaT told me tJuu Ule
coolie. who are tlw.alJy 'willing to do any work
offered do not come out I)r their JIO!!aelI end JQOk
for ... ork until raUlu i.ter on iD the morning. nnd
so, to pats away the time, I had .. gthcral look
round. The gll"len of thi5 bungaltror .... fuU
of bl'1lbi O(lwen, and glUldha-raj. bet., jumin.
which al'(l the flowers that to proluidy bloom in
Dengal. u "'eU all frnits, lHMI.ooet. hoJe8. pApa), ...
tu and rich pomtgranales.
On t.hc rigbt of the main road, on the lop of the
hilL was a ruined red .tone &Dd brick fort, which
...... built by .. Uindu king OO4I1y ytJtl'lllllBU to we-
guard tIU! yiD.,., horn Invaders rtllIhing in from
UIC Mrth 01' ~ The ueent to it U: by .. small.
very steep rootpath. The wbolo: "Tillage !lOW'
conlaln8 from .. bout four to five hundred 11OUJCII.
within tM eom.- of a low mud and _Clne wall
"hid. lllIQ' round the oorthem and port 01 the
."
,\Ill to tljflPlto flnd B(lBb
western edges of thit hill; but it i. said th.t in
the olden .. 8&gh IJO"5(md two &od
three thousand houses. Lying, .. it dotS; 011
gteRt bro.d allcil!nt road whk!h runs dOWll
(I'OIn the north and pa_ south .... nt. throu,gb
Aj . l1ta on 10 the Dekkan Md Lilf!0C'f:' downwam
it ..... once, no doubt, of great importanel!,
('..specially betwcw the (otUth and M:\enth cw'
turiCl A.D .. when JJuddhisrn in thi! put or India
wu at. UII! of its Rlory. Seytl'lll local
seholars of this faith: DharrnA-llakhya, Cun.-
\'I!Idra. P.rnnuutlta. and Aligullta. or Uii,in
between lhe fiRh .nd seventh ,1.,1}. ILlI
China to exchange idCM .nd preaf:h 1IlI<l
.tudy the Duddhist law, while the peat Duddhin
Chinne J/'llOlars .nd pilgrims, llel1en Tuna.
Jo' hoo:l and lhuan Tai came to vlxit Ccntrn!
and Western lndia about Ule 1IB1lIe time.
In the .btUI, seventh IInd eighth eent.urics.
Ilowe\'cr, Uun kings swanned ncn:.!I A.ia inlt>
Wbtem India, fighting and deetruyinlf whrrevtf
UIIlY went. i\fu"ulman invasiOIl/i wt.1'1.' nllO eon
tinucU: 10 that by the tenth century BuddhisJn
WJI.II driven out and utterly t'TUIht:d .nd. COtI-
&e\JuenUy. the Bagh CSYell dcsert.td.
flilldu BrWunirJisru DO", o\'cr th" land,
and ttner t h.t date UIol' people 01 lbAb anti UIC
vU1aaa uound have nnuiy ai, been JlindUJ.
'"
,
About Ih,t humlftd ye.,. 'fIG UIt ambition
of .,jlitf.lo or lite' ,i.Il&ge!: amu/la l!Aah to he lonlll
of laud In 11 IllJ&I't.er ul 11 ceutury 0(
AAarchy. ill ",hil'll U!l.#h wo and
lltto1ltl .. '(1. nlen it Ilf'OIot mol1' to .mM
importanec Uuvugh heromill,! lnorr 1/11111 !.WO
/mndl':d years ago (leeaoionAi mlitl<'ON: of
J ha$u Dome.h. 11 eelcbratoo freebooter. wbn

himwl( o( the Kotn> distri<1. IUId ""00

built '" u( 6et'urit)" (or his (011"",(,,, -.nd
plundu the (orts 0( SooMrtt'. IJagl! And
JhlL,u Uomtl'lh ht-ount by bold
dIltil>ns, wilil'il atcnded IIOt only into 11.1 ... 001.
t"('U to 111<: Ikkhn IUId GUU'Ilt, j() (unnid.blt' 81
to exdtt th('
1I11cnlion of tilt lflUlIttll
prlnteS, lie by anny
(Ott)' d"ys in i.hJ! fort of Kuiabi, lit tht cad 0(
which ptriotl. flnding pIKe DO lonll'C'r
he lnIIde h. ett'llpt t o Hlllfil, To IIWi pillet
11 .. 'll'A. [lunutd .nd IIgaiD Ileoi<'littl: but. not.
belli! .uIoI 10 make n .. and, be retired to tbe
nwunlaina. m'lln whirh perio,ld lI(tIhil'll' rurther
fJf' hinl is 1;.1'\0\\'1\, UW ooulltry "'&5 dil"id"d among
the "nail with ie.. dqlmlknt
rllilin,q to tile lholrc of tht olIaJuu.ja or Sindbia
in tbt erntury. who IIktI to
It by .k-plll)'. IlI'Id lAtH it illcludl in the
G'II'lIlior State, to wlakh it 5till bdonp.
AlII l'ilgrimDgl'6 to Ajanlll and Iloglt.
T11ett eaves became known to the officials_ne
bundn'd rcan ago as an cspccW abode at
but lo-dGy. Itmroge to .. y. nngh. which means
.. tiger," is more famed to Ule Il4ti,CI lllr its
pottery and laequcr bangles than for the fact
tllat it is elOle to the reat DOOdh"'t templCl.
By about nine o'clodc Ule .. me morning J Iw.!
ooUeded two men from the ,riltnae and wc IUrltd
lor the 011.\"1:1. Dct.WCClI tho village and tht eavCl
-a diltance of about (our mile.-iJ an open
jUIIg:lo wilh le\'cI fields or dwad eypl"l'.ll IlIld date
buslae&, aod bablll looking like mimoeo. but rull or
thorns. Nim and jambu treaI grow and
along the blinks 01 the bouidcMtrewp 8aglllNlti
riVCl". The river wriggles Iflake-Iike lluougb tht.
neJds.. and we had to CTOID Illhrce or lour times
on our way to the caVC'JI. A lew villages wcre:
doued about, collSinipg somclimet of only three:
or four butt. whlcl! are inhabited by the KoIef.
8hil, alloll otha IlIul')'. halr-clothtd itincrut
lribes who live by shooting with their primi'
tive heWJ Rnd arrow, and by ('Utting wood . .. 'well
the')' IIclJ in the mmet.
Dclore tllC'advrratolLhe Rajpuu, the Dhi" weft:
tha lUliRf rnce in Wc.'!!t.cm IJldia; but about
tlu-oe or '()Ut IlIuulmt 810 the)' !:Iearnc a
dClpistd, OUtcast. Ilttce peo[Ik, ... 110 wandtftd
ap.rt Crom the rat of mankind.
'"
lff kI 81'1"
To-day they &le lllOl1! pcacable and show 1_
.u.pieioa or eivilitalion. but they an: still lih
dcligbtrw dilldn:n who do not. want to work. but
prefer rather to adorn tbeir arms and leg!! wjUt
IllUIglts and dance with their wbole might to the
drum and the cymbal
My brother arti8t, Suren Kar. told me the
a;tory or tIle roUowing incidrnt tIlA1 OCloum:d
.... bile lie, QIlOlIr other arilits, "'.111 lltaying at.
Dagh. At the approarh at the sprinr lelth'a1,
tIle head II'IaII or the village gIVe a J'ree.drink
da.nt'lng party to the ,illagmi. They bt<came
wildly and danced round the fire tar into
the (I)OOOU1 night, _ving their lpeus and
P'OC'dJ in t.he dark night. slry, II.nd playing drunw
1111 UIe time. SLlddcnly there .... a ery and much
,bouting, saying: 11 Hai, Uai I J'allc Baba's head
lies on the around. Patle B.', bead Lir:. OQ tbe
ground." These people ,..ere M) wild lUll nol to
luind chopping off the or a nci(hbour wbtn
inftamtd by the dllllOl:.
To ave tbl!lNdva rrom sLo.r .. ation.
UIeIe BhiIII ..... ilI _times (OlldCIICCtKI to doing
a LitUe work, and that must have been why 1 was
able to
tour mm who, with the oilia t .... o.
tJW'dJed IinaIe file KrOQ tho Gelds. carryina my
ladden., water jug. oil hunp. drinkln, _ter anc.I
dnawing malnWl.
211
We presently SIll\" rnr *_y berore us 11 dcqJ
holt. in the through the dark pm lreft
in r:ront, and my companion -.id: .. 'Ibat iI
GonIaiji', Gumpha," "'hieh IfI8l\S tile hQly
rather', cave holUe_ Then we ClIme right lip to
the root of the hill, snd there, tJUlCtI}' in lront 01
the <svts, Wl\S running the fIIImc little DallhmaLi
river in whieh the pilgrim. u!oCd to w .. 1I thdr
and reet. before visiLing the 5II('ffl1 monas-
tmel_ Cypl"l'Sll bushes had ,",1nl thick hen-,
ancl many kinds; ot t.reet. thick-Ietwed and
Ihado"y. Wilt!! strelmiDg thtir root. luxuriously
in lhe dear, CQOI, lo\-e1y "'lItu_
"'-.ter-unk is round in the rot!k lit Ilagh ,II.i
.t Ajllnla and the other C1CII'-st((1 ... ns or
h wlia, .lId lhis at flnt seemt 11 little .trn"lt"; but
.ina- this riVtr, just. below the !:an', IloWll rur
.bout IIlIle ot tile year, f,"k1rntly it
ltrVed ....... tfMillpply for the monks who, ror
lbe ",PlAining lhffe montN, CClllld ad. a1mof;t
perfect.ly-lilt.en:d water hy digging in the sandy
bank!,
Immaihlteiy n!ter ef05&ing Illd rivtr ""e l'JIJIllt
10 /I I!'VI'I plain. aod Ibm .re flight or
fm-ml), nlddY'formed .tone Ittp..- .. hid, led 10
the mouth or the ctI\'d" "hic:h "C' had
IIC'm rrom Cat ."ay in !kId_ A5 J aPrtondltld
I .. w 11 \II'()UIjerfuJ tight : Ilocb ot wild do'-tf,
m
.till Pilgrimage 10 8"1l"
parrots and hwldrttt. or monkey. and
.... l!f'e coIlcctetl round a hl<!ndet nude
Ilgul't', ",ilO 1\11\'1' unkempt hair And lxxly rongh
IIlId gn:y ","j Ut uh-dl15l, riltinc Ilnd
immobile. a yogi, or holy man, 1"'(1,,", ... CMsai
IJaboill. rn. disciple had It-n hi, food cl mill;,
_eet:me.olt: aNI fmitt: in frOllt of him, ami tlle
birrls Mu:! money' .... ere eflLillg it, but at toOR
.. th<y ..... me the moo.ke)'a eaeh picktd up ' .... 0
handful/! of tlle rood, and sW"ung them-
khe. into the gnal nim bUS .nd jlmlped ftoom
tQp to top. chattering, ho .... ling .. nd wboopillC>
and the bird, n:luctanUy H<!w.way.
The poor simple Yillagers fJM-e thit: IlOIy f.ther
and mont')' looked uJlOD
him .. the great proUd.or of t.l1e ol8aGb,
He remaincd dAy and night OUWM the en1:n:lnl::e.
but Iilf pttdtceilOta had pwcll'flted inside Uu.
cave alld had "Iilled the pAintinp by amoke: and
lire.
The hill in which the ""'1';1 h."e been tlIC8\ .. ted
runs ..,.Ilel to the little rh'tt Daghmati. The
Iowa htlf it: Iloping, bul t:terp; the upper, JlU"
pendiC'tlw, romposed entirely of horil.Ol1ta1.tn.ta
or SIlfltlstooe IUld J&lternating with l'1leh
other; it it a pc<Uliar rock, quit.. distinct (mm
thl.' voleanjt; meks in the nrl,hbourbood IlIltl ......
uted fot tmcJLinr iron IUIUl fcm:ip compdition
!lli
-
MII l'iiKriowau IQ .Ajanw mid BlagA
killed the industry. The IW1tUtOOC eontains a
14rge amollnt of clay. and it coloured with aside
at iron, varying Crom ... red to. perftrl .bitt".
With itll colour vary aoo ita: hardneu and UK:
of It" grain. lhe dark red bdng !lnc.
grained and tokrobly hlln'l. the white ooane-
Gmined r.nd SO sort as to be able to be rubbed 1.0
piecetl bel"Weell the finger&, and eonlainlna IUtln)'
org/lllie impressionll. Different ,hadCll of tlK: rod
Iftnrutone occupy the upper or perpendicular part
of the hill with thin Ia)'i!rt nf the claystolle jnur-
.......
nlC QVt'II oeeuPf the ocntre of tile hU!, ('00\'
mwcing At ita put. It it through
the lower hair or the o:a.vcs, ror about Jix rcd
(rom U)cir Door, that the IlnIturn of whiu .. nd
Atone; runs: thit., howevu, Itposcs nn the old
mrI IlU\d5tone. The uppu part. of tile CAVes il
fanned of the light red IIImMone.
Superimposal on thit IftPrulQne b: 4 dp slrn
tUnl of wbite clllY or ct.Yltone. in fl10.et$ fully
twenty reet. in depth. alld it iJ evKle!ltly owing to
the .. b5otbw.t and .retentive PO"'er or thL! day
and the wdah! lIS .eU as the dtltrueliH erted
at the wal<l' iD it, that IUdI irnmtNC flaky mngeS
of tile roof. and b .. nmd..., have been
and fallen, Thill does I10l tOern to ha\'(I .. cted
on all the CAVes alike. both OD accouut of the
unequal depth of the day IlDrI Ule lalU!'e of the!
underI)ing stone. which
to be moll corn,
pad. in U,C lint CA\'C. lumce its prtIttVation.
bul, ,..hile the mort .outherly has moa,
tbe damnge nn" injury the el.ns hllve ....uunm.
ill to be attributed tQ vvialioN in the alnta or
.tone and dIIy.
The hill runt north-cast and _th,west, and
lhe ctl"ct face oortb,wesl, .a that. nevCI' at aDJ
time do they receive the IlUnliJht fun IJQ them,
but in the cveruog they IIJ"C lit quite. 0DIIaiderabIy
by the rays of the tdling fUn.. Thil iI the ClUe
with almOlil all hulian oa,-e excavations.
The eaves are fully expGlC'd. unfortunaUiy.
to wcaLhtt of all kUIIIs, as in many cal'CS t he
barandu have broken away altogether; the
jUlIglc has J"Own thickly in front, a.nd bou1dus
atld debris ba"!!. collected to a OOIUIiderable beiiht;
while, from "ery ancient timc:s the Cll'" baVII
been by tigers, b)'enaI. jackak, JDakn,
monke,.... "ild boars. cobra and pylhonl, which
ahQuod and .. andCl' rruly In anti out of the
CJlY'eS, and therelore the villagers In the neigh.
boI.uhood are terrified to vwl them; but in
'pile of all thcte puils, jU.l as at Ajant.., ..
fair is held once .. yeu in the 'lrintu, do1na by
the river Baghmati,
n.ere &le about nine cavea in .u. each ooe ..
,..
MJI 10 I ljo,l1(1 (lnd Bal"
bihnl'1l. (or, curiously. there arc no cl1aityu in
thi' KrieJ. TIle excantion of tJl_ temples
took place. in Rboul tht; flru! omwry ,I....,.
of tJlt'I1ln.re now !alien in altO!,.<clhtT and arc iD a
ruined condition.
Thett; ea\'es were. not all exea"ated at one
time. but no doubt tlUl)' were. all done between
the (ourth fllld 5iltth cCllturil!$. Abollt ouc
thOIlSltnd feet to the left of the leading
to ea,'e 2 is 11 m\ltll bihara cave. IllOIIl Iikdy
t':llcsvatl nftcr all tJ,c otJlenl in t,he Mria;:
bllt .. it is RI one call it Numbu 1.
In front .u a little baranda. the ,Iillar.! or
w,hieh ha\"e fallen away. There is a single
cnlraoee and no windo1lf.. TIle portico which
Olll'e stood ill rront or the door Is now utterly
ttt:5lroyed. The intericw is IU\ Rb;o!Utcly plain
rooal, tWt'fll)'-Uu:'Ce feet wide. ha"ing nu ecllJ,
II&ncluary. statue or painting. and It WAIl
thetdOf'e most probably a dwelling hOOf(! ror
!he head priest or ita neighbour. enve 2. TIle
r01lt plllan are much Won! Ilwny Id the roor
Ihq- '1I1'poTt. at any moment collapfC.
On the .... y to the &GIld cave on lilt right are
,igM or exea\-lItioo in the rsee ur the rock: but
are bloclttd. up ... ith debril that it iI \"ery
LI) know whclher Uley denote the .dun.!
rm\Ain, or a or OIIly UIe eonlmCnOMlcot.
( ......... ...
- ---........ __ ."" ... _, .. -..
Thm wc come to cave 2, excavated about
UIe firtb century A_n_. wblch is uwa.lly Ole first.
("ntered, being led up to hy the flight. of ancient
slepI. This it .. GonlIw Gumpha" wbleb
can be KCn (!"Om alar off in the f1e1cb AI a dftrk
hole in the red $8.ndstooe hill piercing the thiek
,-
Oul&ide Ih(" cave i. a ,mall knlling plACe
Ol' ni1ung by the hiD, whicll is hm at iu rreatcst
of one humlrtd ADd IIfty fed, EvidenUy
this once formed Il b8rAnda.upportl by o:oIumns.
hut bOW it. is an litter ruin. inl.o fl"Nl
mnunlb nc:arly AI high IQ the cav(", letoving a
path .. a! up to the door, 600 planed and piu-
tM'ed wiU. CO>\-dung. 10 as to ronn a high teAt
for the Whu, The ptutered front or tbe etol"e
and fnlimenu among ruin give evidence
ttlal U,e. b.nulda ImI once deoorated. A por-
ti('() QrigilUllly protected the enl.tanc-c; lmt
th.'I.t loo has in. lCaltt!y Cl traee remuinillg.
At e&ch end of the bnmllda' is It. nall
that OD the. riht ooatainl a I-cry tnOCkm flI,"UJ"e
of CAneI6Il, Ule Hindu God of Luck, Ulurping
Ihe piliCC' o)f the earliest fllJUfe et Buddha ... hieb
q 5110'ro to have been thm originAlly by the
Uuddbist.iea.l Clnb\.ems of lIying fiiUftB holding
prlandl. auch u are often round on the waJllI
al Ajanta.



J/v 10 Ajo"in olf4 8Qgi
On entering, onc is 8UrLIed to ICe lighting
the IIPpl'OllCh.. an old city .treet lamp stud: up
on "obbley post, Behind, on the. "all tilt
StIrlhu 111\1 scratclIed in vermilion the marks of
large uisu\aa, tbe Bigns of. Siba wonhipllU,
Imide the caVIl you are impreued "ilb g!oanlY
grandeur; It. not, ho'I'"eVU', till you h&\'e hem
la few .tcondll in it Uwt you per:ive Iu grt"Bt
extent. Tbe open &tea 01 lb. ta\'e is
mct.SUring eightylour led. tAdl roe,
fu height is fourteen (<!et and a half. The
roof if IUpportcd by rour ranp or nlU5ive
rolUflUll; the t"o centre on..,. being round;
lhOR at lhe right and left 11ft! lIquate at Ute
base. but at Ule htighLl of Ilve and dabt fed
formed into hexagon. and dodecagons.
nlt paintill{,'S OIl the wall. .00 eeUings 01
Ule tAl'C ha"e been terribly injurccl by the
.moke IUId jOOl from the Ilrtl. QC the holy r"then,
"00 bve lived for centuries. But. in
spite or thD, were 81\ artbt to take . ulficiwt
trouWe, he wouW be IUnt to di5covu .ante
wonderful (IIIlotingll unknawn to the world.
Cor many lraeu Ille .till to be found on Ute
datk _1l11t and ceilings. Th05C on the roof,
are clIitf1y beautiful dtcClnlive diagonal defigna
in compartments oC about OIU! root.
eontaininr dephanl4, buttalott. birdt, fruil and
...,.
My to Hagh
80wen. The grcsque d...-arl figures. male and
femAle. or tribute bee.1ftS, relemble the 1I('U1p-
rumi ftguru in old English dlumlel, especially
1 DOlU:ed t.bofe in Wells Cathed,-.I, in Some.
Jeuhin.
I.ing brtwert1 tM centre. range of cotullUlS
to tbe cud of UIC cave, you tntu an oblong
re(eIJ or twaranda, me.suring twenty feet by
twelve, optn in rront toward. tbe cave IUld
.upported by two eoIumllf. In
nkhes, on the renUlining lhrte lIidel of t hi$
apartment, "!.",reI are CAr9ed in bold ,..Iid-
UucWha and M. dilc:ipJa.
From this recess. you poa at the k<:k through
a small doorway and enttt an inner apN1.ment
twenty Ucl by lJIe\IenteEn, in the
CCllI.Te of which. eut out of tbe lOIid roek, ia
... IUlt the nllth'es \em! The Cburn," or Itu,*,
being a hexagon of three feet UllUl
inches each fide, swmounted I)y a plain dome
I'UIching nearly to the roof, to which it iI joinoo
by 11 sqlUU'C Otl\llDK'flt.
Around tbe lat-ge ea"e ate twenty mlllll CC'lb
which local guldrs alithe "dokant," or.bopJ.
each DlI:UIuing niM fed in depth. ... ilb a Je(\llrau
entn.nt'e towards lhe ol\'e. 1bet'e Il!'e JeVeD of
th_ to the right., .u: to the !en. ancJ four at !.he
end of the ea,'e. two on md idc or the

My Pilgrimll/lu to AjollUJ '''Ill Bogia
Enting the .tCOOIld to the Idt. of these small
apattmmt&. YOll pt!r<:t.ive lit. .bout four feet.
from the ground in thc oppollite _U a RJla1]
oblong nU\'alion of about three feet. by toro:
cnlCping through whkh. you entCl' a Ul8.I1
ap.rtment or .bout twelve feet. lK]uue, in the
oJlp<:lSile 11 or whkh is dmilar excavation
leading to a like apartmtfJt: and .. on
,h-ely for Bve &mall fOOIlllI. gnuJuAlly flteeIldinl
the hill. the Hoor or end, inner 4p1lrtmcnt being
on a level with the lower part or lbe entnnce
from the outer one.
1'beae seem ap&rtmcnu appear originally
either to bave led or to have been intended to
lead to the top of the hill; Rnd to b,c been
the private entrance. AI however, they
!'C'CC'hc neWler light nor air, excepting from
the fll'Jl entrance.
CHve ill (!Speciaily inU:rel;ting Q 1.'OIll-
bining both lbc bih",.., and dwtya; for here.
betide the oelk, ;, round the ohjt or ,,'Orship,
lh" itUpll.
I_ving lhe tea;lUd CIl\'" and protftding south-
.-ud b'enty or Ulirty
by a WllTOIV ledge
ruund 11 Ilrojecting part of the hill. one rc.chf'll
thinl ea"". BetIll"ftU th_ ttrrO tIl\'a chisel
rnub IlI'C visible Q(I the
Q though e:xca"a-
t.k>n. had been begun only and not fully carried
""
out. In front. of this thinl eave ill bf;e rum
tree. ipreeding brandies 8CT'e'I'1l the en-
t.n"ll'(:.
The ..... i.!I IIn IIPpendll{.'t: to the
preceding bibano, and by I'CIlSUll of the 'Iigh
tlnish Umt hat \N:f;1I given to UI" c:rilingll 0( the
('clblllnd fronl.llge of the eave, it Mo IIKlIIt I""obable
that it \\'1\.5 e-xeav"ttd ror the luX'onunodalion aC
some: portieulu a t higher w.... Clr iJlC prJaot-
hood.
The front. of the has oot. had hArandu:
but the
the iowCl' J*rI or wbit:h hw! broken
away, it SttIoolhly cllisdled, nut pJutercd, Imd
catved with Ligen' heud$ betwem lilt: usual .Ilupn
of caVta.
The cave 1l5df ill sixty red. by forty,.nd Rl'tef;n
Cm high: il is quite plain in design. and h ..
1'OIoIl;IIIy plMtued for painting. One tll:'it

hall l ... tllty-eighl rcd lIqllal"t ,,,ilb si$

octagonal plll"!"- .'our cel.1s It1u:I
from the righL side. On the ldt, Lwa p!t1an
ronn the entrante 1.0 11 ..... n<t. dttoratl!d willl
mouie aPd, rl'1'llll this, all intnOlle
U1'IIlIgement or oolt with pe.'p betwtell them ..
leads out. .. aUJh" one .id .. of the Im\'e to extend
laterally beyond the proper rnlnl 011' entt.ace.
The c:dlinr ar the .. "uP have aIJ been

rated will\ paintings shaded In bIaclc: .Pd ""llIte,
AIr PiYtrirJUJ#' f4 JljGrttn and /Jngll
Md in .. lugc eell f!QIIlC beouti!uUy-dra1l'll
...... ,
At Ule end or the cave op[lOf'ito to U\e mI1in
tmtn.nee three doors lad to Il hall about thirty
nine fed. square with two I'OW$ of fOW' brond,
square. rough pill.,." 5ttetc:bin,l! aCl"(JQL The
angles o! the in this 0:/11\' 0 lire not wdl c:ul,
but .. -en: IwidenUy kI't unfinished.
Tile total length at the e.ve lrom rJ'OJlt to bftclt
is about one hundn:d and thirty feet and the
gtnen:t.! height about Jixt.een feet,
Leaving this third c".'e. and retul"ltins by lhe
aame road, you deKt"nci the .tone atail"ll and
promul along lhe btPttoln 0{ the hill south.ard.
rot' about .. huDdn:d ylU'ds and then n!AS('enci by a
ruggtd llteep footpe.Ul to the rourth ('ave. Step-
arijinally Led Crom llle to the cllve.
It w the It.rpt. CII,'e or the terIc:5. .bout
ninety-rour red. Jquate. and if remarkable in
m.ny resped:.l: it it better lit. the piIbn ate
IDOI'e elegantly proportioned and lhe (Illintings
are ,upeTior. more cl.borate and more dhenillcd.
It b eaIled" RangmahaI." wbidl mean' "eoIour
hall."
Connected with this eII\'e. in onc unln-oken
front. which originally was eoven:d with pIlintinp
uninlemlptedly, Q: tJle. paLba ... l1oUa, or &ahool
toom. A .pkndWl eolonuade, two hundred and
M /I PiflriltlDKf to Bog"
twenty feet in crt:eme lttagtb IlfId OOIlneeted by
twenty {)Ctllgorud pillars fourteen reel ill height.
emlmlC)et the. or both l'4vt"1. Socb nug-
nillecllee i'l unriv&llttl IlIld \lIlequnned ill IIlly
kuo .... n bihan.: a Irllastet at end and 01K"
"illllt lit the SGUtllI)I'Cl110 that mualn.
The nm. object noticed on ap[ll'08('hing the
ta\"e is 1\ eo!OSJI\I Agure or Duddhft. whicll tnlI be
.Jem LhfOllSh the Lr'K1. cut in Of) the rke
rJ the rook a (e" ya.rds to lhe len. or the bataoda :
it ill in all Ilf'(:hed niche about tbirUen feel high.
ne is "'PreKnted in tJ,e te.cll.in.g attitude,
seated "iUI the len elbo.,. Of! UIC right knee, the
root rating on U\e ground. The lett arm has an
ol'tlll.lllent on it. 1'le right .ine iJ worn a"aY,
An open IMkava', mouth is behind t.bt' head and
a rilwlnd lies on tbe lhoulder; above the t.e.d 01
the figure a\"CI the lftl'lainJ ot 11. tJ.aoba with 11
mpk. umbrella !UHt ",ua1 Ryilli prland
at Ihe aide at it.
A. )'ardt rarthar on, just round the oomet.
ill Iittlo I'I!OI'a OOIltaining two flsill'ft lealed
dote tOjt!:ther on bmtb, the cobta. hood 0\'\"1"
the right One. It q impoll!lble to leU who tilt,
repraent. but tOt,)' may be BudIU.... 11lC walb
Ill"C pctinUd wilh eight I1JWJ of _tt'd nuddhas:
av"" U..-, within an aw:hway. lire the ranaint:
of Mother sented ft,gu.re or Uuddha, baying tho
...
ebakn., or praying whed. beneath him betwec'n
two anLdope.' beads. and flying garland bearen
.bo,e,. Thi$ n:c:ess borders 01\ Ule pilulU which
c:onnc::ted wilh UIC colonnade or the ..... nda.
It is mo re handsome and ridJ than that at the
oppcNlile cnd, where pilaster and one pill.r
f\'rIlllill alAnding. The harMda i8 fourtl:t11 ftcl
wide throughout its lengt.h, and ten feet hibh .
.. mm Ule portiOlI$ of it whleb hnve not. rtdJcn In,
roofllllpeAl'!I to have been with Ilowen
find inlrieate pt.ttc:nlll. The back. wall IUIS been
pw.tm:d flM IIIliDUd continuow:ly through iu
wbule lengtb in double rows. Ofle above the
portions of the upper- only remain. and
even tlltM: "re tcnub!ed over with names and
foolisb inxnptions.
nle C.1'e [t"cll hu till'ft entranl:eS and two
... indo .... IlCUfy as big at tJte doon. ehier
door i. exceedingly haoosome .nd wellfinished,
the OlhCT two are also beRlltiful. It it fl(leen
reet hi"h IUId eiahl feet br'Olld, pdualty I't!Cetling
into fline feet by.cr. The comiee of the door is
<lmA.DlenLl with a row of nine Duddhi!;;t figures
in dilte1"tnt positions and n mininture dllf.'ObII lit
md. The f'lieR ha. nifloe beads of Buddha
and the an:bitrave 11. &-md senill, wnieh
pa-. down !.be inflC!!" pila$tn-s. The COI1IOIes
bear a fnDAle llgul't _ilh one hllnd Off dJikJ'.
Jly Pi1grilMle 1(1 n llllt
hClld, both ItlUlding ".ilhin lhe open mouUI of Il
river-df1lgOll.
Tm OtllU doon have the aame onullnen
!.Ation. The: windows IlJ'e nearly.tql1llft and h&\'e
on the in.tide hob tor' the todtell of wooden
shutters Ilnd aho for El bar 1.0 fasten 1100
them. The elm:, delpite iu Uuu doon and hro
",indOWl, ill quite dark and it if! almost impoaible
to mllkc one'. way into it without a light. Bats.
anakes and fNUllhen Inhabit it undbttlrbed.
The haU poS'cnes n mOlit unusullllUTllDgetiltnt
of Ilunua. wbieh wu nlOlSt likdy a t'leC8Ury
(OOSiruetion required by the wcakn_ of the
root. T"'V!lydght pillars, twelve feet high.
support the roof and form tile aisleL They
.qUlll"C at the hue and change 1.0 oeta{toOI IUH!
t hen polyps M risc, n:tuming to octagollS
at the ,ummit. TIll*' at lhe n:a:r an: pWn
oet:agt:lnll ",hillh wcre on<:e pelnted on t1u.'ir UInC!"
fnces with nguru: of Buddtt.; but these n.um
havc I\O'Ir aimOfl \'lUlished.
Within thill of pmar. an! eight q-lin'
t'OlunlDlJ atrangtd in pain. They an!
e1ll'vt'd and once bol'tl a frieu dCCOt1lt!: _itIJ
flgura and cl U!Iddht. eat\"ed in the
.tone. In the exln:mc cenltt are fOt1J'-bIL&eIl
piUan about fm high. It ill C\'ident
they insertt<J after tile cave was excantro,
,.,
MU Pu,r.-mtJlrll(1 AjarlUl aITd Bagll

rython. and tigers tll.'lighl in Lhis cave (or thC'ir
horne.
Cave .. lies .bout yard. (.riha on.
It ill .. rUl:imilc or !!: in Ilmtngement. $ize and
ddllil. It " .bout eighty-m lcd.tquare and has
twenty fliltarl and t .... enty cells. ]lo",c'Icr, it
10 dilapidated and blocked up WiUl rallm root'
Ilnd pillars that it is difficult to enter at all.
TheJ'e are signs of p&inting on walllllUld pilJ.a:r.. _,
Cnve 8 it .:onntcl.ed ",iUI CIIVC " by It aman
('tU. HILt both thiI cave and Number I) are
in 111<:11 la _loI.tl.' or coIIapre that it it imJlo6libk
to enter cid!!:r of tJlCn.
'1111.' rajah, alld rich people who e::u:avak't!
U_ diVes w.ut.ed to kep up the .pirit. of the
llI1isU who, used to a W'Otidl,. lire but oblipl
to for 11 time. in RICh Ionc!ly sulTOUlldinp.
might depreMed and thudOfe ullIIble to
work their best. and M) they anangOO for 11 fair
to be hdd. tJU'OUghoul the whole or winter.
1'0 tlliI, \ lIIagers from tar away came to buy
lIud ml, dnn<:e. urn:! make merry, and the
IIrtb:ts Wtt'1! thWl .ble to pause in their work and
rdieve It.. m(ulotony by mixing ... they loved to
do, wilh jl,lYout:
Knowing what gmat aut the Ib.jahl look. or
the ord'an: lA theae oltLen-timr .rtiilu, one Itanw
... ilh that lhn:e living artiW. Nanda W
,.,
OIlSU, Nalh Kat and Alii Komllt
' '''Idllt, who .,nt in JIlnU&t)' 1021 by lbe
Cwnliot Slate Gol'ennnmt to ropy t.he
lit B''' I,oll . to blldly looked after IInd trt1l.tJ
tru.t, inttud or t.bei.r working rfn" the propolitd
time, three months at the U,ey had to run
lI'lmy from gorge al the end of .'elnuary
aru, two moolhs' ... ork.
The cavet I\.te triLly IIcglecled. and no
ehowkidlllS uc Ittpt at the place to look after
the t:t\\'ca IUld their 5W1"OunWngs RIi tllm Rro at
Ajanta. I1 is Il pRt pity, and they art
bloelc:t!l:lup C"B)'day by lOCO and jungle IUld uc
dirty and {ool'JlmeUillg.
The four mile!! {rom tilt "illaae to lhe can.
were too (Ar to tl'll\-cl cl'ery day and would tun'e
involved the 10lIl or too much time. and 11() I
t.hmf ill my lot. with .. flunily Ihing .. mile from
U>c c:aVts, who pvc me 11 bed ot fOrts ami
a.rnnged ror my food of I'hlpati (a kind of bread).
milk IUld "(ij,>$. Daily UIe procession or
myselr an" the act out for the e.,Vtll,
n.e IItSt I:reeocs Ale to be found in cave": ,
but unforturuolely they an!. fully 10
lII'Cllthu of .11 kinds. lIS Ule t.r.nd.a bat broken
..... yaltogether,
With the hd" of my f'OOlies I cleated aWllY the
.tOQt.'f rollccl.cd bdore Ule .....u and lIfpn


MII Pl'lgriMagu 14 "ja. and nq;.
to trace OlD drnwinp. 1 tllen made the inu-rest
ing digeg,' try lhat tile.; paintings. COOlIidcrro $:I
ptrfect, -vc not really quile fiNliICd. 11tere ""'
1tfOlIp! of various kind. lelling .tories ot Ilncient
tlnleS, the 01' which not exactly
knO'tII'"R. F"lJ'$t. a. ,qlH!en griering o,'er tome tor'
1'01\' ill .urrouuded by mnidens in It. paIaec chamber
ano.! two blue pigooni ail a)l)in, to oac "notht!f
on the top cl the roof. Toward, tbe right tM
king " holding di_ion with ,<jblius and
monks. Theu. in tllf' next p ... rt. ill' a groull or
lautiful. IW('nUtle Nllutch dancing girl,., led
by two rOft:ign-lookinK HIm. pl'Obt.bly l'ersill.n
KUesu in the InllilUl lUng'. rourt.; 11. vtry frivoloua
.ubjcct for .1 BuddhlJ;t hlOnlWery. ()o. er "
_11. men on hor$el)ll(lk lUId otllet$
tooking at this dAncing party. J::lxwhcl"l' pro-
eaaiuns (,If clephallU. nudlilll lhrotlRh ,pUll and
dlirs. IlDlI in IIn I mU.n fOl'eS\.-I_ uodCl'
the woodtod rh"l'T knk. Ill/ of 11. bygone
ridlisation.
I n tJle rrtllC'Oel Ilt Aj lU1ta and 84gh. olle often
in the 8 re'" fOl'cigncnJ. especi.
ally PnJia ..... atngular in lhtir dress. I!OOl ple:cion
lUuJ lype of he",l. For imt.anet. III Br.gh b
dt'pictal lht ro:cptlon of two nOOk PersiAns lit
Ihe eourt of an lndUIn princr" In otho" f'rHcoc$
are dancing girlJ and 't\"IlllU: who till the ... ine-
".


', . .. -
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I



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1

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I':Irp amllulolld dl'.det'tl\l5ly to the I'1Ijft,lUld r'IUIi.
'fl1js \II1lS bcaulIe tile kinl;'f of Jnt& in Llt('.1.Ik/cn
fiap I..ikcd to hen' UOlIlld UlC'nl grl'oed
with the IUInlMow: mal1llHW or.o higbl,. dvlliiW
" M.lntry u Pcrsia, I,l,d a.lSo bcI.'O.ldC they
in thl' t'flurtailUl}('nl u! neWe guOlu
rrom the known 11Uf. of Ull' ,","Orld. F..ch
group. to all .ppearanoe. ... M "..rfeet: but I
1111d .wllled UIU mctbls of the II'\'IiC"OI:S at
Ajaot& 10 dlJllCly 01llL I knew the
of complete nnilh 11'" dec:ept.:i\e.
The the 1I'orit at the llllgh
ca"et anu that ollhe Aj_na if \bb: the IU't.isU
of UII' Buddhist )lAinlinp tint. akctchcd the
outline with Idian red and brush. after whkh
they pduAlly modelled tbe I1gllre. 1'hm C*Dt
lhe co/OOrt ami, Ollte more. on tap of all, IlJKIlhu
ouUine. Ibr-deepest shadoWl,
IIIDd the mort dclieate touel,m 01 <.dour wens
then IIpplkd. and finally blade was .lSCd tor
dttailt. .ucli u hair, etc. These 1ut
tlJl.ldies. bo'll'l:'feJ', /U"e absent in the Bagh paint.-
inp.




J have two thtories to IIetOUnt Cor tbe 1lII-

finished ,talc of the$e rreacoe.: Brill. tNL they
were ' olMondonoo whm it '"' Lhat
these hills. fanned .. tbey were of JOlt aand
Itonco, IftJ't WJluit.blc (w-. pemI&I1C'Dt Buddbblt

Jlu l '1I8rima&u 10 Ajtmlfl mill HtlG.
mon.utery; seoondly. lllll.L the nClI!
ecnttuy A.I). one of the great Hun kin" 01
ludia. foiled in his ambltioa. to become
a lJuddhist emperor. dl!!ltroya:i than l .tIOO
lIuddhist IitUpu. monument.. and monMterie5
in diseppoilltmcnt and in re"enge Cor being
mocked at by the priesu, Thil would 1l1Jo
uphlln wh)' Ie-mplet as thcae .. (mvet" with
their wonderrul living qUftrU:1'!I, Sl:hooll IInd nrt
galleriH should hft\'e been deserted. In f/lee of
rft<Juent invWllion, the ttue wonhippen diaap-
ptru'td from the ]aml, but by gootl fortune the
cave. eteaped dntnH:tion Crorn the vat'i<xd in-
"aden. ror the jungle dosed II.fOUnd thtm,
Here in the jUDgles of Ba,I> UIae are. nU
u \'I:ry old pythons, who leave lheir
lain at night to drink in the ri,'et' BagbD:\.lIi
and then eome through the aandy bulks to the
above. In onler to Qtcb a goat or 11 buclt
for supper, .. nd every morning their rrub winding
trails can be Ietn in the soft ground. H U,c
,'U1agen tee fI python glidina: towards It.. "ictim
lhey run to teacw!! the lIIlinuu, but do not hAmi
the snake, taking pity on and revering it betaU5C.
it ha lived liIK'e arn:ient t1m5, They would
not kiD it., for fear of bad ludr.. In the darkest
hour et night one is litartltd to hear a drumnilitg
aoulld toruUli from the ea,'tt. A.!okina the ba.ba.ji
JI, Pi"" .... to ."
.
why be bsU the drum through the night, he
")'$: "TigeR eome to me (or pe:nm.ion to GO
into the l'il'-ge to find (ood; and I tell thm.
within the boundary cl my drum', tte.t you RlUll
not attack any living but bq'ond tbt
toOUnd you are fret to kill ... bomever you ... idI,"
So. in ptitudc (or the Yogi" areat kindlKU, the
villaJt!l'l IUppJy him tTety day with frub JIIUk

lruib and 1nODq.

The hilhide hc:re .t Bagh i5 M) O'\Imbled ." .. y.
and theJd'ore d.angtrous. that even while a
UJe InOIIU (ound the roof nccdtd ..... t
Alpport, and 10 piled up roeb to ronn atra
liumDL The frailly ot the ....n. and erilinp
i5 shotm by the rall ot earth U.at I.d.es place
whenever e .... :n Iquind -.nperr OVI'I' them.
The whole yeu round. COIItn.ua1

a_y
01 the fl"""", Is P
flI on,
Fint, the hot lun
bleaebes them and lhea torTentiaJ rain .rashes
ol:"er
AAer the ......... ""'" a huodml di(
(ermt rlrifl
bqin to Jf'01" all O\"er thf: wan..
An additiouU peril (or the remainJ 01 the (f'eK'OeI
is that !.hey are lubjt to bombudmenJ at the
hADcb or the sbqJhml in the &t:kII, who let
Ify ItOneI hom tbcit catapults ill CJtdH to cU.lwb
tii'!" aDd _
them nab out of the eaves.
The -.rt cl Uit! teulptu_ aDd tru.coe. in the
or AJADla and Bafh and in Ceylon it. rate
...
My " if&rifMItl 18 AjlUlJ/J and Bagh
and precioU$ heritage 0( Ute Indian 1lICt!. It is
aIikt for iu own art.illtie qualitics and
u a re<:ord of India'. civilisation in the put.
n ill not lhanb: to man but thanb to miihty
Nature that the of thill great art. remain.
Dny by day t.bII lmCeI so wonderfully
rO'l' uver a thousand years lire belming rainU:r.
But tilero is yet time to pt.ce 00 teC'Ord per-
IJUllIeIIt memorial or that which still rcmai[IJ.
A ,mu album of coloured toIlolypeKproductions
0( the in tl,e varions eaves ",oll1d be IlD
invaluable gift. to the world. And if the ruling
ehicains or the temlmy in which the e&\'CJ arc
situated would publish ,uch an alblltn, they would
render IlD i-Urnabk servitt, by once .pin
m.king .Vlil,ble to l'DIuaind the record of ..
perfect 0( human lite.
,.t.o.n_ ,.-. ne .
... , ....
INDEX
-_ .... ..-
.
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of, If-ft. JI -'
.. .c=, ......
....

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't. """""
" ,n
0, 111 ...
" ..
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T ..... ""'''''
U
...... , .. -1 ..
, ...... ,....111'1. I ... ID
H ... '''''
' .. ..,..1.1, 117
".
1t.1U
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-...... , ... ,,,., ... ,u
'T . .oD, .-Iot ..
, .. Q&. ,.
, .. ' ... , .....

11. 1.0.-

........
-
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.
... , ...
.... I
.. ... , .
. , ...
.......
M&or'7. nor.
-.w. "" l.. , ..
A ....

..
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u Uifr -'.' t t;i
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af i' J '; 'f 'r U!ifdft
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f!f IflH fJf If mm ff
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to, . . F J" - . Cl . f 1:. - - I
r I; J...
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f Hif! ! mf {ilfHflf iUH fl Hff-'J 1'1 HH
u Uifr -'.' t t;i
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af i' J '; 'f 'r U!ifdft
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r f '. i f
. ; . n I! I'
f!f IflH fJf If mm ff
',"'f- i. !Mrfl
f
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i , . .I:;;;f p. i If _ ;0;'., ' ;;;
to, . . F J" - . Cl . f 1:. - - I
r I; J...
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f f , l!U
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v.-,t; ...... 11'1 ,.
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Cn',,' Att.batoJockll l U..".
NEW DELHI.
C},$' ;;t'".
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