Find help for everything

from running toilets to

cracks in your walls,
brown spots in your
yard, and other
annoying problems
around the house.
home
repairs
G Stop a running toilet
G Install toggle bolts
G Adjust a dragging shower door
G Sharpen your mower blade
G Give your lawn first aid
G Seed a bare spot in your yard
G Fix a storm door closer
G Fix a door that doesnt latch
G Fix loose hinges
G Unstick a sliding door
G Free a sticking storm door
G Repair a damaged screen
G Take out dents in a steel door
G Fix your own furnace
G Repair a drywall crack
G Solutions for a bouncy floor
G Replace a sink sprayer and hose
G Relocate a sprinkler head
3
Turn off the water supply, flush the toilet and sponge
the remaining water from the tank. Disconnect the water
supply line, unscrew the fill valve locknut and lift out the old
fill valve.
2
Flush the toilet and look for a fill valve leak. Lift up on
the float arm when the tank is filling to see if the water
stops. Bend or adjust the float arm so the tank stops filling
when the water level is 1/2 to 1 in. below the top of the over-
flow pipe. If the fill valve still leaks, replace it (Photo 3).
1
Push down on the flapper with a stick when you hear the
water running and listen for it to stop. If it stops, you
know the flapper isnt sealing properly. Replace it. Check the
fill tube length and cut it back so it's at least 1/2 in. above the
water line.
The mysteries of a running toilet can drive you nuts. Whether
you hear water running constantly or cycling on and off, read on
to learn how to stop most leaks. Hardware stores and home cen-
ters carry the parts for almost every repair.
One cause of a running toilet is a flapper that doesn't seal. If
water from the tank seeps around the flapper and into the bowl,
the flapper is probably shot. Test for a leaky flapper as shown
in Photo 1.
To replace the flapper, first shut off the water supply valve
under the toilet (or the main supply if the valve leaks!). Flush the
toilet to drain out most of the water, and unhook the old flapper.
Buy a new flapper of the same type and install it according to the
instructions on the package. Hook the flapper chain onto the
flush lever arm so theres a little slack when the flapper is closed.
If the flapper doesnt leak and the water still runs, inspect the
fill tube connected to the overflow pipe (Photo 1).The end should
be above the water line. If the end is under water, cut it back.
Next, inspect the fill valve for visible signs of wear and test the
float (Photo 2). If the float is improperly adjusted, the tank water
level can rise above the overflow pipe and drain into it. Replace
the old fill valve if it doesnt completely shut off or it hampers the
float-arm operation (Photo 3).
Install a new floatcup-style fill valve as shown in Photos 4
and 5. Adjust the float according to the package instructions to
FILL
TUBE
OVERFLOW
PIPE
FLOAT
ARM
LEAKY
FILL VALVE
FLOAT
OLD FILL
VALVE
SHANK
WASHER
LOCKNUT
WATER SUPPLY
STICK
OVERFLOW PIPE
FLAPPER
FILL
TUBE
34
Stop a running toilet
4
Insert the new fill valve into the tank and
tighten the locknut a half turn past hand-
tight. If the fill valve is at its maximum
height, but the overflow pipe is still higher
than the critical level mark, shorten the over-
flow pipe with a hacksaw so its 1 in. lower
than the critical level mark on the fill valve.
5
Attach one end of the new fill tube to the
fill valve nipple and the other to the
enclosed angle adapter (shorten the tube to
avoid kinks, if necessary). Clip the angle
adapter onto the overflow pipe.
OVERFLOW
PIPE
NEW FILL
VALVE
CRITICAL
LEVEL MARK
HACK-
SAW
FILL
TUBE
OVERFLOW
PIPE
ANGLE
ADAPTER
FILL VALVE
NIPPLE
establish the proper water level. Finish the
installation by attaching the flapper chain to
the flush lever. Turn on the water and test flush
the toilet.
2
Run a light bead of silicone
caulk around the holes and
insert the toggle bolts.
3
Tighten the toggle bolts. Hold the
mounting bracket away from the
wall as you turn the screws; otherwise the
toggle will simply spin inside the wall.
SILICONE
CAULK
35
Install
toggle bolts
Fastening towel bars, shelves or hooks to a fiberglass or
plastic shower surround can be tricky. The surround is
simply too thin to hold screws and theres often
a gap of 1 in. or more between the surround
and the wall studs behind it. But with 1/8-in.
toggle bolts, you can mount most light-duty hardware
(like the adjustable showerhead bar shown here). Keep in
mind that this leaves big holes (3/8 in.) in the surround
that cant be patched later, so anything you mount will have to stay there perma-
nently. The mounting system shown here isnt strong enough to support the full
weight of a person, so we dont recommend it for installing safety grab bars.
Everything you need is available at home centers and hardware stores. Here are
some pointers:
I Some areas of a fiberglass surround may be reinforced with plywood. After you
mark the hole locations (Photo 1), drill 3/16-in. holes. If you strike plywood behind
the fiberglass, you can drive in stainless steel screws
instead of using toggle bolts. If you dont hit plywood,
drill 3/8-in. holes.
I When youre drilling through the side
of the surround where the shower
valve is mounted, apply only light
pressure as you drill. Otherwise, you
might suddenly punch through the
surround and puncture pipes.
I When you buy toggle bolts ($2 per
pair), also buy brass machine screws
($1) to replace the steel screws that
come with the toggles. Steel heads
will rust and stain the surround.
I When you tighten the toggle bolts
(Photo 3), its OK to use a drill. But do
the fi nal ti ghteni ng by hand. Too
much torque can crack the surround.
1
Mark the hole positions and drill
3/8-in. holes through the fiber-
glass. For a clean, chip-free hole, use a
brad point bit.
ADJUSTABLE
HEAD BAR
FIBERGLASS
SURROUND
BRAD
POINT
BIT
STEEL
SCREW
TOGGLE
BRASS
SCREW
harm plastic, so check the label. If the lubricant doesnt do the
trick, replace the rollers. Most home centers and some hardware
stores carry replacements ($3 per pair). Take an old roller with
you to find a match. In many cases, you can use a replacement
thats slightly larger or smaller than the original. But be sure to
check that the original and replacement edges matcheither
rounded or flat. If you cant find rollers locally, type shower door
parts into any online search engine to find a supplier.
Screw the new rollers
into place and rehang the
doors. Youll probably have
to remove the doors
once or twice to adjust
the rollers for smooth
operation (Photo 3).
3
Raise or lower each door by repositioning the roller in its
slanted slot. Loosen the screw to move the roller. 2
Lift the door out of its track inside the upper rail. Tilt each
door in or out to remove it. Wipe both tracks clean.
36
Adjust a
dragging shower door
If the sliding doors on your shower or bathtub
dont glide smoothly, repair them soon. A door
that drags on the lower track will eventually do
permanent damage to both the door and the
track. A dragging roller at the top of the door will
wear and require replacement.
To start, make sure the rollers on both doors
are riding on the tracks inside the upper rail.
Sometimes, one roller falls out of the track and
the bottom edge of the door skids along the
lower rail. In that case, you only have to lift the
door and guide the roller back onto the track.
If an off-track roller isnt the problem, youll
have to remove the doors to adjust and possibly
replace the rollers. Many doors have a small plastic
guide at the middle of the lower rail. To remove
this type of guide, just remove a single screw. Oth-
ers have a guide rail screwed to the door (Photo 1).
With the guide removed, lift the doors out of
their tracks (Photo 2). Then make sure the rollers turn easily. If
not, apply a little silicone spray lubricant. Some lubricants can
1
Unscrew the guide at the lower edge of the sliding door. Protect the shower
or tub from scratches with a drop cloth.
GUIDE
RAIL
UPPER RAIL
SLOT
ROLLER
ROUND EDGE
FLAT EDGE
Play it safe when
removing the blade
Always disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the spark
plug before you touch the blade (Photo 1). The blade and shaft
are directly connected to the motor, and in some cases turning
the blade by hand could cause the motor to fire, unless the spark
plug is removed.
Then look for the carburetor and air filter. The carburetor is usu-
ally easy to recognize because it has throttle cables running to it. If
you keep this side up when you tip your mower over to get at the
blade (Photo 2), you wont get a smoke cloud from leaking oil the
next time youstart it. Some mowers have gas caps withair holes that
couldleak a little gas onto your garage floor, so work outside or keep
a rag handy to clean up drips. Once the blade is off, set the mower
back ontoall four wheels until youre ready toreinstall your blade.
Youll usually find a single bolt or nut holding the blade on. Its
usually very tight and youll need to clamp the blade to loosen it.
The 2x4 method shown here (Photo 3) is simple, quick and safe.
37
Sharpen
your mower blade
O
ne of the best ways to encourage a
greener, fuller and healthier lawn is to
sharpen your lawn mower blade. A
dull blade rips and pulls the grass blades, leaving
ragged tears that both weaken the plant and pro-
mote fungal growth and other grass diseases. A
shar p bl ade, on the other hand, cuts
cleanly, allowing the plant to heal and
recover quickly. Sharp blades also let
you complete your lawn-cutting chore
faster and with less stress on the mower.
Sharpening is a simple task, even for a
novice. Itll take a few sharpenings to master the
technique. After that, the chore will take less than
10 minutes. Plan to do it twice every mowing sea-
son. Here youll learn the steps that will work for
just about any walk-behind mower.
1
Pull the spark plug wire from the spark plug to prevent
the motor from accidentally starting. Then remove the
spark plug.
2
Turn the mower onto its side with the air filter and
carburetor side up. This keeps oil and gas from dripping
into the air filter.
AIR FILTER
Dont use your foot! A good tool to
keep handy to loosen the bolt is a 10-in.
breaker bar with a socket to match the bolt.
I t l l gi ve you pl enty of l everage to l oosen
extremely tight bolts, and you can keep your knuckles well
away from the blade when bearing down. Use a squirt of pene-
trating oil on really rusted, stuck bolts. Wait 10 minutes to give it
time to work.
Sharpenit witha file
Sharpen the blade with a hand file (Photo 4). Mower blades are
made from fairly soft steel. You can sharpen most blades with
fewer than 50 strokes of a clean, sharp mill bastard file thats at
least 10 in. long. Grinders also work, and much more quickly. (Pros
use them.) But theyre more difficult to control and you might
overheat and ruin the blade.
Always sharpen from the top side of the cutting
edge; this will give you the longest-lasting edge on
the blade. The file cuts in one direction only, on the
push stroke; youll feel it bite into the steel on the
blade. If you dont feel that cutting action, your file is
probably dull or youre not pressing down hard
enough. Dont try to make your blade razor sharp; itll dull more
quickly.Butter knife sharp will do.
Sharpening mulching blades is sometimes more difficult.
Mulching blades may have longer or curved cutting edges, and
you may need several types of files to sharpen them. In some
cases, you may have to resort to a 4-1/2-in. angle grinder. If your
blade is too difficult to sharpen, take it to a
hardware store or a blade sharpening serv-
ice. You can have it sharpened for about $6.
3
Wedge a short 2x4 between the blade and the deck to
clamp the blade. Loosen the bolt (or nut) with a long-han-
dled wrench. Turn counterclockwise. Remove the bolt and blade.
BLADE
WEDGE
BREAKER BAR
WITH SOCKET
Mark your blade
Mark your blade with spray paint before you remove it so you know
which way to reinstall it. Mower repair pros say that the biggest mistake
homeowners make is installing a blade upside down after sharpening it.
The blade wont cutand theyll go nuts trying to figure out why!
*
Do you needa newblade?
Examine your blade when you remove it and look for
the problems shown here. If youre unsure of the condi-
tion of the blade, take it to a hardware store or home
center and compare it with a newone.
4
Clamp the blade in a vise and sharpen the cutting edge
with a mill bastard file, held at the same cutting angle as
before. File until the blade is butter knife sharp.
ORIGINAL
CUTTING
ANGLE
BENT
Set your old blade on your work-
bench and check for bends. If
youre unsure, compare it with a
newblade.
CUTTING
EDGE
DENTSINCUTTINGEDGE
Replace blades that have deep
dents that you cant file
out and erosi on
from wear and
s har peni ng.
Also replace any
blade that has
cracked.
SPRAY
PAINT
NEW
BLADE
*
No excuses!
To get in the habit of keeping your blade sharp, dedicate a
set of tools for sharpening only. Hang them nearby so
theyre ready to go. And keep a second, sharp blade handy
too.You can slip it on and sharpen the dull one later.
THINTRAILINGEDGE
The trailing edge, or fin, is
the edge opposite the
cutting edge. This fin is
often slanted upward,
whi ch creates an
updraft to lift the
grass and grass
clippings. Dust
and sand will
wear this fin
down. When its thin,
replace the blade.
5
Hang the blade on a nail to check the balance. If one side
dips, file a bit more off that side until the blade remains
horizontal.
NAIL
Balance it before reinstalling
Before you reinstall the blade, be sure to balance it. An unbal-
anced blade will cause vibration and possibly ruin the blade
shaft or bearings. To check the balance, simply drive a nail into a
stud and set the blade onto it like an airplane propeller (Photo 5).
If one side falls, its heavier, and you have to file more metal off it.
Keep filing until the blade stays level.
Reinstall the blade and hand-tighten the bolt. Insert the 2x4
in the reverse direction so you can bear down on the breaker bar
to tighten the bolt. Its difficult to overtighten the bolt. Mower
sharpening pros say that the second most common mistake they
see is undertightening the bolt. A loose blade throws off the
engine timing and sometimes makes the mower hard to start.
NEW
BLADE
THINTRAIL-
ING EDGE
THICK
TRAILING
EDGE
OLD
BLADE
6
Reinstall the blade and screw in the bolt. Then wedge the
2x4 back in and tighten the bolt firmly with your socket
and breaker bar.
Buying a newblade
Always replace your blade with an exact replacement
blade, or the blade recommended in your owners
manual. Resist the temptation to convert your regu-
lar straight-blade mower to a fancier mulching
mower by simply changing the blade.
Your mower probabl y won t
wor k any di f ferentl y
than before, and
i t may not
work as well.
The mower
deck on a
st r ai ght - bl ade
mower i s shal l ow
and has a si de di s-
charge to eject the grass
clippings quickly. A mulching mower has a deeper
deck without a side discharge; the grass is chopped
three or four times before it drops to the ground. The
mower design is as important as the blade.
MULCHING
BLADE
REGULAR
BLADE
Problem: Dog spots
ongrass
Symptoms: Dog spots are round
patches about 4 to 8 in. in diame-
ter with dead grass in the middle,
encircled by dark green grass.
Theyre most apparent in the
early spring when dormant grass
first begins to turn green again.
Cause: Dog urine contains high
concentrations of acids, salts
and nitrogen, which burn (dry
out) the grass roots and ki l l
them. As rain washes the area,
the urine is diluted
and the ni trogen
spreads, causi ng
the grass sur-
rounding the spot to grow faster and turn greener.
Remedy: You have to replant your grass; it wont
come back on its own. But first you have to dilute or
remove the caustic urine from the soil (Photo 1).
Thoroughly soak the area with lots of water. Let the hose run for at
least three minutes. Then you can start the replanting process
(Photo 2). Add a half inch of newsoil to help absorb any remaining
urine (Photo 3). Then you can spread new
seed or use a commercial yard patch mix-
ture (available at most nurseries or home
centers) or even sod. In any case, the secret
of good germination is keeping the seed
moist. And keep the area moist until the
new grass is about 3 in. high.
Recovery time: Four to six weeks
38
Give your lawn
rst aid
Anounce of prevention
1. Soak your pets favorite areas in your lawn to get the
salts out of the root zone before they kill the grass.
2. Fertilize your lawn in the spring to boost the overall
color and mask the darker green dog spots.
3. Trai n your pet to uri nate i n a desi gnated area.
Replace or repair the grass in this area annually or
cover it with mulch.
4. Keep your pet well hydrated to make its urine less
concentrated.
*
tip
When youre
watering new
seed, moisten the
soil daily and keep
it dampbut
dont soak it. Over-
watering is a com-
mon mistake.
1
Soak the patch until the grass is
sopping wet to dilute the urine
acids and salts and wash them deeper
into the soil, beyond the grass roots.
2
Scrape up the dead grass with a
hand rake and remove it. Rough up
the area to loosen the soil 1/2 in. deep.
Seeds germinate better in soft soil.
3
Sprinkle on a 1/2-in.-thick layer of
topsoil, then pepper it with grass
seed. Cover with a pinch of new soil and
press it to firm it up. Keep the area moist
until the new grass is about 3 in. high.
DOG
SPOT
*
tip
A grub problem is often
indicated by increased
mole, bird and raccoon
activity. They dig up and
feed on grubs at night.
This may sound good, but
moles kill your grass along
with the grubs.
Anounce of prevention
Inspect your turf periodically by pulling on patches
that look unhealthy, or have a professional inspect
your lawn if you suspect a problem.
2
Treat your lawn with an insecticide
if the count is six to 10 grubs in a
square foot. Follow the manufacturers
directions carefully. Or consult with a
yard service.
1
Pierce lawn with a shovel in a U-
shape. Peel back the lawn (as
though rolling up a rug) and count the
white grubs in a 1-sq.-ft. area.
GRUBS
Problem: Grubs
Symptoms: Grub-chewed turf has patchy areas that wilt and
die. You can easily pull up the affected turf if you tug on it.
Another indicator of grubs may be increased raccoon, bird or
mole activity. They like to dig up and eat the grubs at night. While
this may sound good, the moles will kill the grass as they forage
for grubs.
Cause: Lawn grubs are the larval stage of moths and beetles. The
grubs eat the roots of grass, which causes death by dehydration.
Remedy: Be vigilant. Are beetles swarming around your porch
light? In the next month, keep an eye out for patches of grass that
wilt or are blue-green on hot days. They may be larvae infested.
Turn over some turf (Photo 1). If you count six to 10 grubs (white
wormlike larvae with black heads) under a 1-ft.-square area of
sod, consider using a grub insecticide (available at home centers
and nurseries). Or talk to a professional (look under Grass
Service in your yellow pages) about treating your yard. They will
be familiar with the grub problems in your region and the most
suitable treatment methods.
If you spot the grubs but your count is lower than six per
square foot, baby your lawn to strengthen its natural defenses.
Mow on higher blade settings and water thoroughly but infre-
quently to encourage the grass to grow new, deep roots. Do not
cut off more than one-third of the grass height at each mowing,
to avoid stressing the plant.
1
Spread 1/2 lb. of nitrogen fertilizer
per 1,000 sq. ft. to green up your
lawn, but skip the fairy ring zone. This
masks the lush green of the fairy ring by
blending it into the rest of your yard.
2
Break up the fungi with a hand aer-
ator ($20 at a home center or gar-
den store). Punch holes every 2 to 4 in.
throughout the ring and 2 ft. beyond.
3
Go treasure hunting if you see no
improvement in three weeks. Dig
out rotting stumps, roots, construction
debris or other organic materials under
your lawn.
Problem: Fairy ring
Symptoms: Fairy rings are circles approximately 3 to 8 ft. wide
that consist of a dark green and fast-growing area of grass sur-
rounding an inner area of partially dead or thin grass. Some rings
also produce mushrooms.
Cause: Fairy rings are caused by fungi that live in the soil. As the
fungi feed on organic matter, they release nitrogen, causing the
grass to turn dark green. As the colony grows, it disturbs the flow
of needed water to the turf roots, creating thin or dead spots.
Fairy rings often begin with the decomposition of organic mat-
ter, such as an old tree stump buried under the lawn.
Remedy: By bringing up the color in the rest of your lawn with a
nitrogen fertilizer, you can mask much of the overgreening of the
fairy ring (Photo 1). Hand-aerating the ring will break up the fun-
gus and allow the flow of water and other nutrients to the grass
roots (Photo 2).
Recovery time: Generally fairy rings can be masked with the
application of fertilizer, with results in 10 to 14 days. The grass
within the ring will thicken up with aeration in about two to
three weeks.
Anounce of prevention
Aeration will help with fairy rings, but maintaining a healthy lawn with a balanced fertilization program is essential.
Apply three doses:
1. Apply 1/2 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft. in late April or early May to give the overwintering grass roots a bit of a boost.
2. Add no more than 1/2 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft. at the end of June or in early July when temperatures are not at their peak.
Stimulating growth during a heat wave will stress the plants.
3. Spread 1 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft. at the end of October. The best root growth takes place when the soil temps are between 58 and
65 degrees F. The roots store energy over the winter, making the entire lawn healthier the following spring.
DECAYING
WOOD
CORE
PLUGS
CORE
PLUGS
DO NOT FERTILIZE
THE RING ITSELF
Problem: Shade
Symptoms: Shaded grass will look thin and patchy.
Some types of grass actually produce wider blades as
the plant attempts to catch more rays. But they also
produce far fewer blades, lending a spindly appear-
ance to the lawn. The truth is, if your lawn gets less
than six to eight hours of sun daily, you are unlikely to
sustain lush grass.
Cause: Trees, buildings and bushes.
Remedy: There are no good remedies. You can
increase the sunlight as much as possible by trim-
ming trees and shrubs. Also try starting areas in
shade with sod instead of seed. The sod will adjust to
the lower level of light. Although all seed varieties
have their shade limitations, try overseeding your
thin area with a shady grass mix.
Or throw in the towel, grab your trowel and plant
a shade-tolerant ground cover. Many will thrive
where your turf withered. Lamium (dead nettle) and
ajuga (bugleweed) collaborate nicely in providing
lovely blooms and an enthusiastic, but not invasive,
carpet. This pair fares well, with a hearty tolerance
spanning zones 3 to 8, and can be planted right up to
your grass. They are fairly low growers and wont get
more than a few nicks from a lawn mower.
Also, mulching between the ground cover plants
will help retain moisture. This is especially wise if your
newshade gardenis ona slope; mulchwill helpprevent
your fledging plants from washing out in a hard rain.
Recovery time: The plants and mulch will immedi-
ately boost the appearance of an area that was once
thin grass. I t ll take a couple of seasons for the
ground cover to become established and blanket
the area.
Anounce of prevention
Avoid the frustration of sun-starved grass by starting a shade gar-
den or ground cover in any area that doesnt receive six to eight
hours of good light per day.
Using a garden hoe, work up the shady area to
remove any struggling grass. Plant ground cover or a
shade garden.
Problem: Thatch
Symptoms: If your grass feels soft and spongy when you walk
on it, your lawn may have a thatch buildup. Thatch is a fibrous
mat of dead stalks and roots that settles between the lawns
green leaves and the soil (photo right). When this mat becomes
greater than 3/4 in. thick, it can cause your lawn to suffer from
heat and drought. Affected lawns will rapidly wilt and turn blue-
green, indicating theyre hot and dry.
Cause: Cutting off too much at each mowing (letting the grass
get too long) and cutting too low. Both will produce more dead
grass tissue than microbes and earthworms can recycle. Thatch
can develop in any soil but is most often associated with high
clay content. Other causes are overfertilization and frequent,
light watering, which encourage a shallow root system.
Remedy: Slice open a section of your lawn (Photo 1). If your grass
shows 3/4 in. or more of thatch, its time to rent an aerator (about
$70 per day). An aerator is a heavy machine that opens the soil
by pulling up finger-size soil cores. The lawn will absorb more
oxygen and water, whi ch
wi l l encourage heal thy
microbe growth and give
worms wiggle room.
Aerate in the spring or
fall when the grass is grow-
ing but the weather is not too
hot to stress the plants (Photo 2). If the machine isnt pulling plugs,
your lawn may be too dry. To avoid this problem, water thoroughly
the day before you aerate. You can also rake in topsoil (Photo 3) to
increase the healthy microorganisms that aid thatchs natural
decomposition. Topsoil is available at any garden center.
Recovery time: You can expect the thatch layer to decrease by
about 1/4 in. per year, about the same rate at which it forms.
Anounce of prevention
1. Mow often and cut no more than one-third of the
grass height.
2. Water your lawn less often but for longer periods to
prevent shallow root systems.
3. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you spread at any
one time.
4. Reduce the use of pesticides. This will help keep the
worm and microorganism populations healthy.
5. Aerate at least once every year if your lawn is prone
to thatch.
THATCH
C A U T I O N :
Call your local utility provider
to mark your underground
utility lines before you aerate.
1
Slice the turf grass with a shovel
and pry it back. If the thatch depth
measures more than 3/4 in., aerate at
least 3 in. deep.
2
Make two or three passes with
an aerator until youve made
3-in.-deep holes 2 in. apart throughout
your yard.
3
Spread 1/4 in. of topsoil on the
yards most thatchy areas and then
rake vigorously to fill the holes with
loose soil.
THATCH
CORE
PLUGS
Seed a
bare spot
in your yard
*
Rentingalawnaerator
If your goal is to have one of the nicest lawns on
the block, you can go a long way toward achieving
it with annual aeration.
When a lawn lacks sufficient air (acompacted
condition), it grows slowly and becomes vulnera-
ble to disease, insects and heat damage. The soil
will become impermeable and shed water instead
of absorbing it.
Gas-powered aerators are available at most
tool rental stores. Theyre slow-moving but power-
ful machines, so ask the clerk for handling direc-
tions. An aerator weighs about 200 lbs., so be pre-
pared for some heavy lifting or ask your rental
store for a ramp to get it into a truck bed or van.
Cool-season grasses should be aerated in the
late summer or early fall. Spring is best for warm-
season types. (If youre not sure what type you
have, take a sample to an expert at a local garden
center.)
Resist the temptation to remove the thatch
with a rented power rake. Power raking is less
effective than aerating because it typically
removes less than 15 percent of thatch and may
damage the healthy grass as well.
Dead spots on a lawn may be caused by disease, repeated dog visits or
snow mold. Simply adding extra fertilizer or randomly scattering seed
on the bad spot isnt going to revive it. Start over by digging out the old
sod and disposing of it; dont put diseased sod in your compost bin.
Holding a spade at a low angle, scrape out the dead grass (including
roots) from a circular area 6 in. greater around than the bad spot. Next,
use the spade to level out the soil and cut in a pattern of seed furrows
(see photo). This crosshatching will create the proper pattern and
depth for new seed to germinate.
Select seed that matches the variety already planted in the lawn.
You dont want the new growth to contrast starkly with your estab-
lished lawn. Distribute a handful of the new seed over the prepared
spot andclose the soil using the back of a short-tined rake. Water
the area lightly and frequently until the roots are established.
Prepare a small area for new seed by chopping 1/2-in.-deep slits in
the soil with a spade. Make a crosshatch pattern by cutting parallel
lines 1/2 in. between slits first in one direction, and then perpen-
dicular to it.
1/2 DEEP FURROWS,
1/2 APART IN A
CROSSHATCH PATTERN
40
Fix a stormdoor closer
Aheavy wind can catch a storm door and whip it open like a
sail, tearing out the closer mounting bracket and cracking the
door frame. And often the mounting screws strip and loosen
from heavy wear.
Fixing the problem used to involve the tricky job of patching
the old holes or even splicing in new trim. However, a product
called the Ultra Jamb Reinforcer ($8 plus $6 shipping) elimi-
nates all that hassle. Its available by calling (412) 370-0888 or
visiting www.ultrajamb.com. This product includes a new closer
bracket, mounting hardware and a heavy-duty steel plate that
reinforces the door frame. The steel plate can be mounted any-
where on the door frame, accommodating virtually any type of
closer bracket.
To begin, remove the old bracket as shown in Photo 1. Pop the
pin to release the piston arm and discard the old bracket. To
install the reinforcer, mark and drill the eight mounting holes for
the steel plate (Photos 2 and 3). Make sure to mount the plate
parallel to the frame edges. This plate will allow you to drill new
mounting holes in sound wood, and should cover most trim
damage caused by the old bracket. Fill and paint any cracks not
covered by the steel plate. Mount the steel plate to the door
frame with the eight No. 6 wood screws enclosed in the package.
The new closer bracket is mounted to the steel plate with four
No. 10 machine screws (Photo 4). Be sure to position the closer
bracket so the angled edge faces the storm door. This provides
the required spacing between the doorjamb and storm door,
allowing the closer to function properly. Connect the piston arm
to the new bracket with the piston pin and test the door.
3
Drill the upper and lower mounting holes with a 3/32-in.
drill bit. 4
Screw the steel plate to the door frame with wood screws.
Mount the closer bracket to the steel plate with machine
screws. Make sure the angled edge of the bracket faces the
storm door.
2
Slide small finish nails through the new steel plate
and into the old screw holes to align it. Mark the eight
mounting holes.
1
Lock the storm door all the way open. Remove the old
closer bracket screws and bracket. Pull out the piston pin
and discard the old bracket.
SPLIT
TRIM
BRACKET
PIN
CLOSER
STEEL
PLATE
MOUNTING
HOLES
FINISH
NAILS
UPPER
MOUNTING
HOLES
LOWER
MOUNTING
HOLES
NO. 6 WOOD
SCREWS
NO. 10
MACHINE
SCREW
ANGLED
EDGE
NEW
CLOSER
BRACKET
As a house settles, doorknob latches and strike plates sometimes become mis-
aligned, so doors wont latch shut. Usually you have to push the door in, and either
pull up or press down on the doorknob in order to get the latch to catch in the
strike plate.
If the movement has been slight, theres a very simple fix for the problem. Instead
of moving the strike plate, slightly enlarge
the latch opening in the strike plate as
shown here. A rotary tool does this quickly
and easily. Use a carbide-cutting bit specifi-
cally designed for metal cutting.
Judge the part of the strike plate that
needs grinding by testing when the latch
catches. If you have to push down on the
doorknob, then the top of the strike plate
hole needs grinding. If the door has to be
pushed in, then grind the outside edge of the strike plate hole.
You dont want the latch slopping around inside a huge opening, so dont grind
away half the strike plate. Remove small amounts of metal and then test the door.
Repeat until the door latch effortlessly catches the strike plate.
41
Fix a door that doesnt latch
C A U T I O N :
Grinding metal can throw
sparks and fragments into the
air, so wear safety glasses with
side shields, or full goggles
when grinding. Otherwise,
use a small round file.
1
Shave off the inside of the strike plate
with a rotary tool and a metal-cutting car-
bide bit. Remove a small amount and test the
latch by closing the door. Continue removing
metal until the door latch catches.
ROTARY
TOOL
TUNGSTEN
CARBIDE
CUTTER
One day the door closes smoothly; the next day its sticking.
And the sticking grows worse as the weeks pass. Its a common
old-house problem, but it can happen anywhere kids hang from
doorknobs.
The screws holding the top hinges carry most of the weight of
the door and are almost always the first to pull out, especially
after theyve been repeatedly tightened over the years (inset
photo). The best way to beef them up is to replace the standard
3/4-in. hinge screws with at least two 3-in. screws that go
through the jambs and solidly anchor into the framing. If the
door has a large hinge with four screw holes, just drive 3-in.
screws straight through the two holes toward the center of the
door. However, if the hinge has only three holes, add a 3-in. screw
through the middle hole and redrill the top screw hole at a slight
angle so the screw hits solid wood (photo right).
Start the drill bit at a sharp angle so the bit doesnt follow the
old screw hole. As soon as you feel a fresh hole starting, tip the
drill bit back to an angle that will hit the studthe angle shown
here should work for most doors. If the bit or screw seems to be
sliding off to the side between the drywall and the wood, redrill
at a sharper angle.
Screw
the hinge
back i n wi th
yellow dichromate (zinc-plated)
screwsthe col or and head
size of these rust-resistant dry-
wall screws are a good match
for standard brass hinge screws.
If the door doesnt shut prop-
erl y af ter al l the screws are
driven in, they may have been
dri ven i n too far, pul l i ng the
door frame out of plumb. Just
back the screws out a few turns.
Replace short hinge screws
with long screws when the
screw holes no longer hold.
Angle the long screws
toward the studs to make
sure they catch.
42
Fix loose hinges
STRIPPED-OUT
SCREW HOLE
1/2"
DRYWALL
1/4" TO 1/2"
SHIM SPACE
TOP
HINGE
ANGLED
SCREW
43
Unstick a
slidingdoor
Y
ears of dirt, exposure to the elements and
hard use can turn sliding doors into sticking
doors, but the problem is usually easy to fix.
Start with a good cleaning. Scrub caked dirt and grime
out of the track with a stiff brush and soapy water. If the
door still doesnt slide smoothly, the rollers under the door
either need adjusting or
are shot.
Locate the t wo
adj usti ng screws at
the bottom of the door
(on the face or edge of the
door) and pry off the trim caps
that cover the screws. If one side
looks lower, raise it until the door looks even on
the track (Photo 1). If the door still sticks, turn both
screws a quarter turn to raise the whole door. Then slide the
door just short of the jamb and be sure the gap is even.
If the door still doesnt glide smoothly, youll have to remove
the door and examine the rollers. Unscrew the stop molding on
the inside of the jamb (Photo 2). Be sure to hold the door in place
once the stop is removedif you forget and walk away for a
moment, the door will fall in, requiring a much bigger
repair! Tilt the door back (Photo 3) and set it on saw-
horses. Inspect the rollers for problems. If theyre
full of dirt and debris, give them a good cleaning
and a few drops of lubricant (like WD-40)
and see if they spin freely. However, if the
roll ers are worn, cracked or bent,
remove them ( Photo 4) and
replace them with a new pair
($8 to $16 a pair).
You can order rollers
and other door parts
through lumberyards
and home centers or
onl i ne (www. al cosuppl y. com or
www.blainewindow.com). Look for
the door manufacturers name on
the edge of the door or the
hardware manufacturers name on
the roller.
1
Lift or lower the door on the track with a screwdriver or
Allen wrench. Raise it just enough to clear the track and
roll smoothly.
2
Remove the screws that hold the stop molding. Cut the
paint or varnish line on the room side of the stop molding
so the molding will pull off cleanly.
HIDDEN
ADJUSTING
SCREW
TRIM
CAP
STOP
MOLDING
ROLLERS
If your storm door wont close without a firm tugor it wont
close at allits probably rubbing against the frame, wearing
off the paint and grating on your nerves. Most storm doors are
mounted on a metal frame thats screwed to wood molding sur-
rounding the door. When the metal frame on the hinge side of
the door comes loose, or the molding itself loosens, the door
sags and scrapes against the other side of the frame, usually
near the top.
Before you grab your tools, partly open the door from the
outsi de and push the
door up and down. Watch
the hinge side of the door
f rame. I f the mol di ng
moves, secure i t wi th
extra nails (Photo 1). Start
by addi ng a coupl e of
nails near the top of the
wood trim. Then add nails
farther down if necessary.
Sink the nailheads slightly
with a nail set, cover the
heads with acrylic caulk
and touch up the mold-
ing with paint.
More often than not,
its the metal frame that
comes l oose, not the
wood trim. To fix the metal
frame, buy a few No. 8 x
1- i n. pan head screws.
Stainless steel screws are
best. Stick a shimbetween
the door and the frame (as
in Photo 1), tighten the
existing screws and drill
new screw holes through
the frame. Press lightly as
you drill the metal; you
dont want to drill into the
wood molding with the
3/16-in. bit. Then drill a
3/32-in. pilot hole into the
wood and add screws
(Photo 2). In most cases,
two or three screws
added near the top of the
frame will do the job.
3
Grip the door by the edges and tip it about a foot into the
room. Lift it up and out of the track one edge at a time.
4
Unscrew and pry out the screws that hold the roller in, then
carefully lever it out with a screwdriver. Clean or replace
the rollers.
ADJUSTING
SCREW
NEW
ROLLER
2
Drill new 3/16-in. screw holes
through the metal frame.
Then drill 3/32-in. pilot holes
into the wood and drive in No. 8
x 1-in. screws. For a neater look,
spray-paint the screw heads first.
1
Position the door by wedging
a shim between the door and
the frame. Predrill and drive 10d
galvanized finish nails to firmly
fasten the molding.
SHIM
KNOB SIDE
WOOD
MOLDING
NEW
SCREW
HOLE
METAL FRAME
44
Free a
sticking
stormdoor
45
Repair a
damagedscreen
B
alls hit them, kids push on them and pets try to run
through them. Whether your screens are aluminum or
fiberglass, theyll get punctured or torn. Repairing a
damaged screen is easy and takes only a few minutes.
If the screens aluminum frame is in good shape, youll need
only the following: a roll of new screen material, a package of
spline (the thin rubber strip that holds the screen material on the
frame) and a screen rolling tool. Youll find all these items at
home centers and hardware stores.
The steps shown here apply only to aluminum frame screens.
Selecting screenmaterial
The most popular replacement screen material is fiberglass, as
shown here. Its flexibility makes it the easiest to useif you make
a mistake, you can take it out of the frame and try again. Alu-
minum screen is sturdier, but you only get one chance. The
grooves youve made with the screen rolling tool are there to stay.
A third type of screen
material thats popular is
sun-shading fabric. It blocks
more sun, which means less
load on your air-condition-
ing system and less fading
of your carpet, draperies and
furniture. Its also stronger
than fiberglass and alumi-
num screening, so its great
for pet owners.
Al l t hr ee mat er i al s
come in gray or black to match your other window screens. You
can also get shiny aluminum as well as sun-shading fabrics in
bronze and brown tones. Know the size of your window when
you go to the home center. It will sell premeasured rolls to fit
near l y any openi ng. I f your screen f rame i s t al l er t han
36 in., it should have a center support to keep it from bowing
in once the material is in place. Newer screens usually come
with this support.
1
Pry out the old spline with an awl or a narrow-tipped screw-
driver. Throw it awayspline gets hard and brittle as it
ages and shouldnt be reused.
AWL
OLD
SPLINE
2
Place wooden blocks along the inside of the two longest
sides of the frame and secure them to the work surface. The
blocks keep the frame from bowing inward when you install the
new screen material.
SCREEN
FRAME
STOP
BLOCK
3
Lay the new screen material over the frame. It should over-
lap the frame by about 3/4 to 1 in. Cut each corner at a
45-degree angle just slightly beyond the spline groove. The cuts
keep the screen from bunching in the corners.
NEW
SCREEN
MATERIAL
45 ANGLE
CUT
4
Begin installing the new spline at a corner. Use the screen
rolling tool to push the spline and screen material into the
groove. Continue around the frame. If wrinkles or bulges appear,
remove the spline and reroll. Small wrinkles should tighten up
as you get back to the starting corner.
5
Trim excess screen material using a utility knife with a new
sharp blade. A dull blade will pull the material, not cut it.
Cut with the blade on top of the spline and pointed toward the
outside of the frame.
SCREEN
ROLLINGTOOL
CONCAVE
ROLLER
NEW
SPLINE
TRIMMED
EXCESS
UTILITY
KNIFEWITH
NEW BLADE
*
tip
If your long
screens dont have
a support, you can
make one out of
aluminum frame
stock. Its located
near the screening
supplies in most
stores. The alu-
minum stock can
be cut with tin
snips and trimmed
to fit.
46
Take out
dents in a steel door
Fill a dent or hole in a steel door the same way a body shop
would fix your car. You can do this with the door in place, but it will
be easier with the door lying flat on sawhorses. Remove an area of
paint a couple of inches larger than the damaged spot (Photo 1).
Sand away the paint with 60- or 80-grit paper, or do the job faster
with a small wire wheel ($7) in a drill. Next, fill the dent with auto
body filler ($10 at hardware stores and home centers). To mix the
filler, place a scoop of resin on a scrap of plywood or hardboard.
Then add the hardener. Mix the two components thoroughly;
unmixed resin wont harden and youll be left with a sticky mess. A
plastic putty knife ($1) makes a good mixing tool.
Apply the filler with a metal putty knife thats wider than the
damaged spot (Photo 2). The filler will start to harden in just a
couple of minutes, so you have to work fast. Fill the repair flush
with the surrounding surface. Dont overfill it and dont try to
smooth out imperfections after the filler begins to harden.
Adding another coat of filler is easier than sanding off humps.
When the filler has hardened completely (about 30 minutes),
sand it smooth (Photo 3). After priming the repair, you can paint
over the primer only. But the newpaint wont perfectly match the
older paint, so its best to repaint the entire door.
*
tip
If the damage is near the bottom of the door, you can skip the repair and cover it with a metal kick plate ($25 at home centers
and hardware stores). Kick plates are about 8 in. wide and come in lengths to match standard doors.
2
Mix auto body filler and fill the dent using a wide putty
knife. Avoid leaving humps or ridges. If necessary, add
more filler after the first layer hardens.
3
Sand the filler smooth with 100-grit paper. Use a sanding
block to ensure a flat surface. Prime the repair and paint
the entire door.
1
Remove paint around the dent with a wire wheel. Roughen
the bare metal with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper.
AUTO
BODY
FILLER
SANDING
BLOCK
DENT
WIRE
WHEEL
Fix
your own furnace
A
furnace can be intimidatingespecially when its not
working. However, there is good news. Roughly a quar-
ter of all service calls can be avoided with easy fixes
that cost little or nothing.
Here youll learn about the common culprits and what to do
about them.
C A U T I O N :
Always turn off the shutoff switch (see No. 2 on p. 69) and
turn the thermostat off or all the way down before chang-
ing the filter or working on the thermostat or furnace.
E
X
H
A
U
S
T
EXHAU
ST
IN
TAKE
HIGH-EFFICIENCY FURNACE
FILTER
BLOWER
GAS
SHUTOFF
VALVE
HEAT
PUMP
WARM AIR
REGISTER
DRAIN
LINE
SHUTOFF
SWITCH
PANEL
SWITCH
6
Figure A
You can check and
correct all of the
items shown here in
just a few minutes.
A gas-fired, forced-
air furnace is shown
here, but most of
the same checks
apply to electric
systems and hot
water boilers.
Before you assume you have a furnace problem, check the thermo-
stat to make sure its actually telling the furnace to come on. Ther-
mostats, especially programmable ones, can be complicated, and
the more options a thermostat has, the more that can go wrong.
I Make sure the switch is onHeat rather than onCool.
I Check the temperature setting.
I Compare the temperature setting to the room temperature.
Set the temperature five degrees higher than the room tem-
perature and see if the furnace kicks on.
I Make sure the program
is displaying the right
day and time, as well as
a.m. and p.m. settings.
I Trace the ther mostat
wi res back to the fur-
nace to check for breaks,
especially if youve done
any remodeling recently. If you
find a break in one of the thin
wires, splice the line back
together and wrap it with
electrical tape.
I Replace the battery. If you
have a power outage with a
dead battery, youll lose your set-
tings and the thermostat will revert
to the default program.
I Open the thermostat and gently blow out any dust or debris.
Make sure the thermostat is level and firmly attached on the
wall, and that none of the wires coming into it are loose.
I If you cant make the program settings work, you can bypass
them altogether. Simply punch in the temperature you want
with the up/down control and then press the hold button.
That will switch on the furnace if the thermostat program-
ming is the problem.
1Check the thermostat to make sure its on
*
tip
Lost your owners
manual? Most
major-brand man-
uals are on the
Webjust go to
the manufacturers
Web site.
THERMOSTAT
6
4
8
3
7
2
5
It sounds unbelievable, but furnace technicians often find that the
only repair a furnace needs is to be turned on. Look for a stan-
dard wall switch on or near the furnaceall furnaces, no matter
what age or type, have one somewhere. Check the circuit breaker
or fuse for the furnace as well. Make sure the front panel covering
the blower motor is securely fastenedtheres a push-in switch
under it that must be fully depressed for the furnace to operate.
Just as with switches, someone may have turned off a gas valve
and then forgotten to turn it back on. Trace the gas line back from
the furnace to the meter, and if you see a handle thats perpendi-
cular to the gas pipe, turn it so its parallel.
If you have an old furnace or boiler, you may have a pilot light.
Remove the front panel and the burner cover and check to make
sure its lit.
3Make sure the gas is on
Drawn by the warmth, birds sometimes fall into the chimney
exhaust flue. Turn the furnace off and the thermostat all the way
down, then dismantle the duct where it exits the furnace and
check for debris. Be sure to reassemble the sections in the same
order and direction that you took them out.
High-efficiency furnaces can drain off several gallons of water a
day in heating season. If the drain lines become restricted by sed-
iment or mold growth, the furnace will shut down. If the drain
hose looks dirty, remove the hose, fill it with a mixture of bleach
and water (25 percent bleach), then flush it after several minutes.
5Flush out drain lines
If your furnace comes on but one or two rooms are cold, first
make sure all the room registers are open. Then examine any
ductwork you can get access to and look for gaps between sec-
tions or branching points. Seal any gaps between sections of
duct with special metal duct tape. Dont use standard cloth duct
tapeit quickly deteriorates, and it may also cause ducts to leak
if it was used to seal sections in the past.
Al so check for handl es protrudi ng from the ductwork.
These are dampers or air conditioner bypassesmake sure
theyre open.
Dirty filters are the most common cause of furnace problems.
Dust and dirt restrict airflowand if the filter gets too clogged,
the heat exchanger will overheat and shut off too quickly, and
your house wont warm up. If the blower is running but no heat is
coming out, replace the filter. A dirty filter also causes soot
buildup on the heat exchanger, reducing the efficiency of the fur-
nace and shortening its life.
The owners manual shows
where the filter is and how to
remove it. Change inexpensive
flat filters at least once a month.
Make sure that the arrow points
toward the furnace. I nspect
pleated filters once a month.
Hold them up
to the l i ght
and i f you
cant see the
l i ght cl ear l y
through them,
replace them.
Manufacturers
say pleated fil-
ters are good for three months, but change them more fre-
quently if you have pets, kids or generate lots of dust.
7Change filters 2
Check shutoff switches
and breakers
4
Make sure the chimney
exhaust flue is clear
8
Look for blocked or
leaky ducts that
restrict airflow
6
Clean away leaves and debris fromheat pumps or
intake and exhaust vents
NEW FURNACE
FILTERS
If you have a furnace that vents out the side of the house, make
sure nothing is blocking the intake or exhaust. If either of the
pipes is covered with screen mesh (like window screen), replace
it with 1/2-in.-mesh hardware cloth. If ice is clogging one of the
pipes, you have a bigger problem somewhere in the system.
Clear it off and call a technician to find out why its happening.
If you have a heat pump, clear away grass and leaves from the
fins of the outdoor compressor unit. Before heating season
starts, hose it down gently from the top to rinse dirt and debris
out of the housing.
48
Repair a drywall crack
1
Cut a V-notch through the full
length of the crack, 1/8 to 1/4 in.
deep, removing all loose wall material.
Protect woodwork with masking tape.
2
Embed paper tape in joint com-
pound using a 6-in. taping blade. To
avoid trapping air bubbles under the
tape, moisten the paper tape with water,
lay it over the crack and squeeze excess
compound and air from underneath with
the blade. Apply an additional thin layer
of compound and feather it off 2 in. on
both sides of the tape. Let dry.
3
Apply a second (and third, if neces-
sary) coat of compound, smoothing
it out 6 to 7 in. on both sides of the
joint. Smooth the compound to a thin,
even coat using long, continuous strokes
with a 12-in. taping blade. Allow the
repair to dry thoroughly, sand it smooth
(avoid exposing the tape) and paint it.
As homes settle, cracks may radiate from the corners of doors
and windows. Whether your walls are made of plaster or drywall,
you can repair the cracks in two steps over a day or twoand get
the area ready to sand and paint. Use paper tape; its stronger
than fiberglass tape for wall repairs. For cracks more than 1/4 in.
deep, clean out the loose material and use a quick-setting crack
filler like Durabond to build up the area level with the wall. Then
use the steps shown in Photos 2 and 3 to fix it.
CRACK
MOIST DRY-
WALLTAPE
Assuming you have access to the underside of your floor joists,
you can install either bridging or a layer of plywood to reduce
the bounce in your floor. Try bridging first. Simply nail short I-joist
sections between your existing joists (Photo 1). To prevent
squeaks, apply construction adhesive to the top side of the
bridging where it contacts your floor. If the joist span is shorter
than 14 ft., install one row of bridging at the midpoint. If the span
is longer than 14 ft., install two rows of bridging, one at one-third
of the span and the other at two-thirds of the span.
If the floor is still too bouncy, glue and screw 1/2-in. plywood
to the bottom of the joists (Photo 2). Start the first row at a cor-
ner, then stagger subsequent rows so the seams dont fall on the
same joists. The drawback to this method is that you have to
leave ceiling access to plumbing and gas valves, electrical boxes
and other fixtures.
1
Toenail a line of I-joist
blocks between the
joists across the full length
of the room.
2
Fasten 4 x 8-ft. sheets
of 1/2-in. plywood to
the underside of the I-joists
with 1-1/2-in. screws.
1/2" PLYWOOD
CONSTRUCTION
ADHESIVE
BRIDGING I-JOIST
49
Solutions for a bouncy floor
51
Relocate a sprinkler head
Over time, sink sprayers often break or
become clogged with mineral deposits.
Or the sprayer hose can harden and crack
or wear through from rubbing against
something under the sink. The best solu-
tion in these cases is replacement.
You can pick up just the sprayer head
($5) or a head and hose kit ($10) at a
home center or hardware store.
Photo 1 shows how to remove the
entire sprayer head and hose assembly.
You may be able to get a small open-end
wrench up to the sprayer hose nipple,
but space i s ver y ti ght. I f there i sn t
enough room to turn the wrench, youll
have to purchase a basin wrench ($15 to
$25 at home centers and hardware
stores). If your sprayer hose is in good
condition, simply unscrew the head and
replace it (Photo 2).
1
Use an open-end or basin wrench to
unscrew the sprayer hose from the
hose nipple. Pull the old sprayer and
hose out of the sink grommet. Slide the
new hose through the grommet on top of
the sink and reconnect it to the faucet.
2
Hold the base of the sprayer in your
hand and twist off the sprayer
head. Screw on the new head.
SINK
GROMMET
SPRAYER
HEAD
HOSE
NIPPLE
SPRAYER
HOSE
Decide where you want to relocate the sprinkler head. You can move it up to 4 ft. with flex
pipe (available at plumbing and irrigation supply stores) without affecting performance.
Dig an 8- to 12-in.-deep trench from the current head location to the new location. Turn off
the irrigation system at the controller. Unscrew the sprinkler head from the riser (Photo 1)
and then unscrew the riser. Insert a flex pipe elbow into the existing combination elbow or
riser tee. Tighten the elbow until its hand-tight. Then attach a 3/8-in. flex pipe to the flex
pipe elbowby sliding it over the nipple (the flex pipe has a smaller diameter than the water
line pipe). The connection doesnt require clamps.
Fasten a flex pipe elbow to the other end of
the pipe. Place the sprinkler head on the elbow,
then turn it until its hand-tight. Hold the sprinkler
head i n the l ocati on you want i t. The top of
the head shoul d be at ground l evel . Backfi l l
around the head with your free hand (Photo 2).
Once the head is secure, fill in the trench and
replace the sod.
Note: Before you do any digging, call the
North American One-Call Referral System at (888)
258-0808 to have someone mark underground
gas, electrical, water and telephone lines.
RISER
SPRINKLER
HEAD
1 2
COMBINATION
ELBOW
OLD SPRINKLER
HEAD LOCATION
FLEX PIPE
ELBOW
FLEX
PIPE
NEW SPRINKLER
HEAD LOCATION
50
Replace a
sink sprayer and hose
SPRINKLER
HEAD
V
inyl siding is tough, but not
indestructible. If a falling branch
or a well-hit baseball has cracked a
piece of your siding, you can make it as good as
new in about 15 minutes with a $5 zip tool (avail-
able at any home center) and a replacement piece
of siding. Its as simple as unzipping the damaged piece and
snapping in a new one.
Starting at one end of the damaged piece, push the end of
the zip tool up under the siding until you feel it hook the bottom
lip (Photo 1). Pull the zip tool downward and out to unhook the
bottom lip, then slide it along the edge, pulling the siding out as
you go. Then unzip any pieces above the damaged piece. Hold
them out of the way with your elbow while you pry out the nails
that hold the damaged piece in place (Photo 2).
Slide the replacement piece up into place, pushing up until
the lower lip locks into the piece below it. Drive 1-1/4-in. roofing
nails through the nailing flange. Space them about every 16 in.
(near the old nail holes). Nail in the center of the nailing slot and
leave about 1/32 in. of space between the nail head and the sid-
ing so the vinyl can move freely. Dont nail the heads tightly or
the siding will buckle when it warms up.
With the new piece nailed, use the zip tool to lock the upper
piece down over it. Start at one end and pull the lip down, twist-
ing the tool slightly to force the leading edge down (Photo 3).
Slide the zip tool along, pushing in on the vinyl just behind the
tool with your other hand so it snaps into place.
Its best to repair vinyl in warm weather. In temperatures
below freezing it becomes less flexible and may crack.
The downside of replacing older vinyl siding is that it can be
hard to match the style and color, and siding rarely has any iden-
tifying marks. The best way to get a replacement piece is to take
the broken piece to vinyl siding distributors in your area and find
the closest match. If the old vinyl has faded or you cant find the
right color, take the broken piece to a paint store and have the
color matched. Paint the replacement piece with one coat of top-
quality acrylic primer followed by acrylic house paintacrylic
paint will flex with the movement of the vinyl.
SPECIAL SECTION I 15-MINUTE FIXES
Replace damaged vinyl siding
1
Slide the zip tool along the bottom edge to release the
vinyl siding from the piece below it.
2
Slip a flat bar behind the damaged piece of vinyl siding and
pry out the nails. 3
Install the replacement piece and hook the lip of the upper
siding piece into the slot to lock it into place.
ZIPTOOL
ZIPTOOL
BOTTOM LIP
UNDAMAGED
UPPER PIECE
FLAT BAR
NAILING
FLANGE
PUSH
DOWN
PULL
DOWN
REPLACEMENT
PIECE
Unclog a faucet
Remove tough stains from
vinyl flooring
If the flow from your kitchen or bathroom faucet isnt what it
used to be, the aerator is probably plugged. An aerator can clog
slowly as mineral deposits build up, or quickly after plumbing work
l oosens debri s i nsi de
pi pes. Usual l y, a qui ck
cleaning solves the prob-
lem. Remove the aerator
(Photo 1) and disassemble
it. You may need a small
screwdriver or knife to pry
the components apar t.
Scrub away any tough
buildup with an old tooth-
brush (Photo 2) and rinse
each part thoroughly (be
sure to cl ose the drai n
stopper). Gunk can also
build up inside the faucet
neck, so ream it out with
your finger and flush out
the loosened debris.
If the mineral buildup resists scrubbing and you have a stan-
dard cylinder-shaped aerator, you can replace it (about $5). Take
your old aerator along to the home center or hardware store to find
a match. If your aerator has
a fancy shape (like the one
shown here), fi ndi ng a
match wont be as simple.
So try this first: Soak the
aerator parts in vinegar
overnight to soften min-
eral buildup. If that doesnt
work, go to any onl i ne
search engine and type in
the brand of your faucet
followed by faucet parts.
With a little searching, you
can find diagrams of your
faucet and order a new
aerator. Expect to spend
$10 or more for a nonstan-
dard aerator.
Sheet vinyl resilient flooring is so easy to clean that it may
never require anything beyond damp mopping with a cleaner
intended for vinyl floors. But if your floor has marks or stains that
still wont come off, you can use stronger stuff. Although the
methods described here wont harm most vinyl floors, test them
first in a closet or on a section of flooring thats hidden by furni-
ture. Use white rags only; chemicals that dissolve stains can also
make fabric colors bleed and stain your floor.
Isopropyl alcohol, sold as a disinfectant at drug stores ($4), is a
mild solvent. Its the best cleaner for heel marks and works on other
tough stains too. You can also use lighter fluid or mineral spirits.
Remember that all these products are flammable; turnoff any nearby
pilot lights and hang rags out to dry before throwing themaway.
Bleachwill oftenerase stains left by liquids like fruit juices, tomato
sauceandwine. Mix onepart householdbleachwithfour parts water,
soak a raginit andlay the ragover the stain. Bleachworks slowly; you
may have to leave the rag in place for an hour or so.
Oxalic acid is the solution for stubborn rust stains. Its often
labeled wood bleachbut not all wood bleach contains oxalic
acid, so check the label. Most paint stores and some hardware
stores carry oxalic acid ($7). If the stain wont rub off, wet a rag
with the acid solution and lay it over the stain for 10 minutes. If
the stain remains, rewet the rag and repeat. When thats done,
rinse the floor with clean water.
1
Dampen a white rag with
isopropyl alcohol and
rub away heel marks.
2
Mix oxalic acid powder
with water and dab
rust stains to remove them.
Protect your hands with
rubber gloves and open a
window for ventilation.
1
Wrap the pliers jaws and the
aerator with electrical tape
and unscrew the aerator. Close the
stopper so the small parts cant
fall down the drain.
ELECTRICAL
TAPE
AERATOR
2
Disassemble the aerator and
lay out the parts in the order
you remove them to make reassem-
bly foolproof. Scrub the parts and
reassemble them.
SPECIAL SECTION I 15-MINUTE FIXES
Shim gapping doors
Turn threshold screws
to seal out drafts
Those big screwheads in the threshold of a newer entry door
arent just decorative; they raise or lower a narrow strip set in the
threshold. So if youve noticed a draft under the door, try this: On
a sunny day, turn off the lights and close nearby curtains. Lie
down and look for daylight under the door. A sliver of light sneak-
ing in at both corners of the door is normal. But if you see light
between the threshold and the door, grab your screwdriver. Raise
the threshold where light enters by turning the nearest screws
counterclockwise. Set a straightedge (such as a framing square)
on the threshold and adjust the other screws to make sure the
adjustable strip is straight. Close the door and check for light.
Readjust the threshold until youve eliminated the light. But
dont raise the threshold so high that it presses too hard against
the weatherstripping on the door. A too-tight fit will wear out the
weatherstripping quickly.
ADJUSTABLE
THRESHOLD
If you have big gaps along the latch
side of your doors, they were probably
prehung in their frames at the factory
and i nstal l ed as a uni t. The i nstal l er
should have adjusted the frame with
shims to leave about a 1/8-in. gap along
the latch side, about the thickness of two
quarters (coins). Sometimes the gap is far
too wide.
To readjust the door frame, you have
to remove the trim along the latch side to
get at the shims. This job can be a hassle,
especially if you have painted trim. So try
this trick first. Slip a 1/16-in.-thick card-
board strip behind each hinge (Photos 1
and 2). This will widen the gap along the
hinge side and narrow the gap along the
latch side. Hopefully, itll be enough to
make the latch solid.
1
Loosen the hinge screws in the jamb
and insert a 1/16-in.-thick x 3/8-
in.-wide piece of cardboard behind the
hinge leaf. Push it against the screws
and retighten them.
2
Follow the same procedure for each
hinge. The gap along the hinge side
should open about 1/16 in. and narrow
the gap on the latch side.
CARDBOARD
SHIM
WIDER
GAP
SHIM
Tighten a
floppy
faucet handle
Straighten bubbling wallpaper
If you have a loose valve handleon a shower, bathroom or
kitchen faucettighten the screw that holds the handle in place.
With some faucets, youll have to pry off the metal button at the
center of the handle. With others, youll find a setscrew near the
base of the handle. Setscrews usually require a hex (or Allen)
wrench. If tightening doesnt work, the stem inside the handle
may be worn, especially if its plastic. Heres a trick to tighten
worn stems on most types of faucets: Wrap the stem tightly with
Teflon pipe thread tape and slip the handle back over the stem. In
most cases, a single wrap creates a snug fit.
PLUMBERS
TAPE
WORN
VALVE
STEM
Fix bad
wallpaper
seams
Repairing loose seams is fairly simple and doesnt require a
steamer. Just apply a seam repair adhesive. It provides a solid
bond and will keep the seams from coming loose. Its available at
paint stores and home centers for less than $10.
Squirt the adhesive directly onto the wall behind the loose
seams, then press the edges back into place. Use a roller or
straightedge as shown to firmly press the paper against the wall
and drive out any air bubbles. Wipe away any excess adhesive
with a damp sponge.
Fix the bubbles by cutting them with a razor knife. A
small slit is all thats needed. Then insert the end of a
glue applicator in the slit and squeeze in a little adhe-
sive (see photo).
Wi pe away excessi ve adhesi ve wi th a damp
sponge and press the wallpaper against the wall to
force out the air, using a plastic straightedge.
The glue applicators and proper adhesive are
available at paint stores and home centers for less
than $10.
GLUE
APPLICATOR
STRAIGHTEDGE
ROLLER
REPAIR
ADHESIVE
SPECIAL SECTION I 15-MINUTE FIXES
Push-button disposer fix
Reset the GFCI
If your disposer wont start, push the reset button and give it a
spin. All disposers have an overload feature that automatically
shuts off the power when the motor becomes overloaded and
gets too hot. Once the motor cools, simply push the reset button
on the side of or under the unit (photo left).
On the other hand, if it
hums but doesnt spin, it
may have somethi ng
stuck in it. Switch the dis-
poser off, then try work-
ing through it by turning
the blades with a special
disposer wrench ($10 at
home centers) or by turn-
ing a bottom bolt (photo
r i ght) . Many di sposers
have an Allen wrench for
that purpose, inset on the
bottom of the machine.
RESET
BUTTON
ALLEN
WRENCH
If the circuit breaker hasnt
tripped and your appliance isnt
working, look for a tripped GFCI.
When a l i ght goes out or a
switch doesnt work, first check
the main electrical panel for a
tr i pped ci rcui t breaker. But
don t stop there. Before you
change out l i ghtbul bs and
switches, see if a GFCI outlet
(which may be upstream from
the troubled light or outlet) has
tripped. Sometimes all the bath-
rooms or the outside lights are
powered through a single GFCI
l ocated i n one bathroom or
elsewhere, such as in a base-
ment. Si mpl y push the reset
button on the GFCI and you
could be back in business.
RESET
BUTTON
Quiet a noisy washer
Change the dryer filter
When your dishwasher no longer gets your dishes clean, a food-filled filter is
most often to blame. If its clogged, water cant make it to the spray arms to
clean the dishes in the top rack. The fix takes two minutes. Simply pull out the
lower rack and remove the filter cover inside the dishwasher. (Check your
owners manual if you cant spot the filter.) Then use a wet vacuum to clean off
the screen.
While youre there, slide the nearby float switch up and down. If its jammed
with food debris, you wont get any water. If the cover sticks, jiggle it up and
down and clean it with water.
SPRAY ARM
FILTER
FLOAT
SWITCH
When a washing machine cabinet rocks, it makes a horrible racket during the spin
cycle. The solution is to simply readjust the legs. Screw the front legs up or down until
the cabinet is level. When both legs are solid on the floor, tighten each legs locking
nut. I n most washers, to
adjust the rear legs, gently
tilt the machine forward and
gently lower it down. The
movement will self-adjust
the rear legs.
ADJUSTABLE LEG
LOCKING NUT
BLOCK
If your clothes are damp after a normal cycle, check the dryer
settingmake sure its not on fluff air, a non-heat setting.
Another common cause
of poor dr yi ng i s a
clogged lint filter. The fil-
ter may look clean, but it
may actually be covered
by a nearly invisible film
caused by dryer sheets.
This film reduces airflow
and forces the thermostat
to shut off the heat before
your clothes are dry. Pull out the filter and scrub it in hot water
with a little laundry detergent and a stiff kitchen brush.
Also check the outside
dryer vent for any lint that
may have built up there.
The l ouver doorst yl e
vent covers are notorious
for l i nt bui l dup, whi ch
traps heat and turns the
heat off in the dryer. Pull
the cover completely off
to get to these clogs.
Clean the
dishwasher
filter
DRYER
FILTER
SPECIAL SECTION I 15-MINUTE FIXES
If you turn your central air conditioner on, off and then on again
in rapid order, chances are youll blow a fuse or shut off a circuit
breaker or the air conditioner simply wont respond. Thats
because the compressor (in the outdoor condensing unit) may
have stopped in a high compression mode, making it difficult to
start until the compression releases. Older condensing units may
switch the compressor on anyway, which causes the circuit to
overload and blow a fuse. Newer, smarter condensing units will
prevent this blunder by delaying the ACs on function for a few
minutes. Its easy to mistake this delay
for a faulty air conditioner. Be
patient and give the air con-
ditioner about five minutes
to come back on.
To determine if you have a
blown fuse, locate the special
fuse block near the outside unit.
Pull out the block and take the
whole thing to the hardware store.
A salesperson can test the cartridge
fuses and tell you if you need to replace
them.
Another simple reason your AC might not come on: Youve
signed up for a cost discount with your electric company in
exchange for limited air conditioning during high-demand peri-
ods, and youre in anoff period. If you cant remember, call your
electric company to find out. You dont want to pay the repair
technician to drive out and explain this program to you!
Change the air conditioner
thermostat
AIR CONDITIONER
SHUTOFF BOX
FUSE
BLOCK
CONDENSING UNIT
(INCLUDES
COMPRESSOR)
FUSE
BLOCK
Candle wax is a
handy lubricant
for old drawers
or any furniture
that has wood
sl i di ng agai nst
wood. Just rub
a candl e hard
against the skids
under the drawer.
Rub the tracks inside
the chest or cabinet too.
If your lock turns hard or your key doesnt slide in smoothly, the
lock might be worn out. Then again, it may just need lubrication.
Squi r t a puf f of
powdered graph-
i te i nto the key-
hole. Unlike liquid
lubricants, graphite
wont create sticky
grime inside the
lock. A tube costs
about $3 at home
centers.
Lubricate
sticking
drawers
Lubricate
sticking
locks
CARTRIDGE
FUSE
G Top ways to cut repair costs
G Reglue loose laminate
G Stop leaks in plumbing joints
G Repair drippy showers
G Repair a washer-type faucet
G Repair an outdoor faucet
G Overhaul a toilet tank
G Unclog a sink drain
G Unclog a bathroom drain
G Replace a tub spout
G Tighten a floppy
faucet handle
G Replace a water pipe section
G A trick for splicing in
plastic drainpipe
G Simple solution for a
troublesome light fixture
SPECIAL SECTION:
Use tools like a pro
G Pros favorite shop tools
G Shop tips from a pro
Dealing with leaks, repairs and appliance breakdowns is
part of owning a home. But you dont have to pay big bucks
for professional repair services. In this section, repair experts
reveal super-easy fixes (like flipping on a switch!) that they
regularly charge for. Youll also find expert advice for common
plumbing repairs around the house.
Maintenance and fixes
On
the following pages, the repair experts below
provide examples of repairs they make that
frankly are so simple that they feel bad charg-
ing for them. Many of the fixes they suggest are simple things that
you may have just overlooked. Other solutions are less obvious.
Of course, there are times when you must rely on the pros to get
the job done. But if you follow the advice here, you may be able to
save a big chunk of change the next time something goes wrong.
Top ways to
cut repair
costs
ThePros
Al Hildenbrand
Al has a bachelor of science
degree in electrical engineer-
ing and a master electricians
license. An electrical contrac-
tor for 30years, he has his own
company, Als Electric Works.
CostasStavrou
Costas graduated from techni-
cal college with a degree in
refrigeration, air conditioning
and major appliance repair. He
has run his own company, CSG
Repair, since 1982.
LesZell
Les, the owner of Zell Plumb-
ing and Heating, got his start
in the U.S. Navy Construction
Battalion. Then he went on to
become a journeyman and
finally a master plumber.
BobSchmahl
Bob has 32 years experience
in the heating and air condi-
tioning business. He worked as
a journeyman until he got his
Master Warm Air Venting &
Heating license in 1987.
Lowwaterpressureatthefaucet?
Over time, aerators get clogged with minerals or other bits of
stuff that break loose fromthe inside of the pipes. Remove the
aerator by turning it clockwise when youre looking down on it.
You may have to grip it with pliers to unscrew it. Once its off,
you can take the parts out of the aerator and clean them, but
its usually better to simply replace it. Take it along to the hard-
ware store to find an exact thread match.
Yourtoiletsnotagarbagecan
Les got a call to unplug a toilet he had recently installed. He
was surprised because he had put in a toilet that he knew was
almost impossible to clog. After repeated attempts with a
plunger and a toilet auger, he gave up and removed the toilet
to look in fromthe bottom. The outlet was completely clogged
with a tangled web of plastic dental floss holders, which had to
be removed one at a time with needle-nose pliers. Save your-
self a service call. Use the wastebasket for garbage.
Youd be surprised how often we get calls complaining about no water
or a lack of pressure, and then show up to discover something simple
like a water valve thats shut off or a plugged faucet aerator.
Les Zell
Nohotwater?Checkthepilotlight
Les says youd be surprised how often he has to charge for a service call just to
relight a water heater pilot light. So before you call the plumber, remove the
metal cover located at the bottom of the water heater or simply look through
the glass door to see if the pilot is lit. If you dont see a small pilot light flame,
follow the instructions for relighting the pilot on the label pasted to the tank.
Some high-efficiency water heaters dont have a pilot light that stays lit all the
time. If you have one of these, check your owners manual before you reach for
the phone.
Gotaleak?
Plumbers say that leaks are one of the most
common complaints they get. Valves are one
of the main culprits because they have mov-
ing parts and seals that can wear out. The
next time you see a suspicious puddle of
water, look for a leaky valve before you call
the plumber. Look at the valve to see if water
is leaking out around the valve stem. If it is,
try turning the packing nut (photo above)
about an eighth turn with a wrench. Youll
know if you overtighten the nut because the
valve will be hard to turn. If tightening the nut
doesnt stop the leak, the fix is a little
tougher. Youll have to shut off the main
water valve, remove the handle and nut, and
add to or replace the packing materialstill
a pretty easy fix.
Beforeyoucall theplumber
PACKING
NUT
TIGHTEN
SLIGHTLY
FLOSS
HOLDERS
TOILET
GASWATER
HEATER
PILOT FLAME
SHOULD BE HERE
FAUCET AERATOR
Isyourfreezerfull of frost?
Thats a sure sign that the freezer door is ajar. All it takes is
one too many cartons of ice cream to hold the door open a
crack. Rearrange the freezer contents so the door closes com-
pletely and you may save $60 on a service call.
Washernotfilling?
When Costas gets a call about a washing machine thats not
filling with water, the first thing he asks is whether the water
valves leading to the machine are open. If your washer isnt fill-
ing, check to make sure the water is on before you call for
service.
The No. 1 thing for all appliances is to check the power
first. In other words, is the breaker off, or did someone
unplug the appliance to plug in a drill or something.
Seriously, its happened a million times. Ill go over
there, plug in the appliance and say Im really sorry,
but Ill still have to charge you. Costas Stavrou
Beforeyoucall foranappliancerepair
Refrigeratornotcooling?
It could be as simple as turning the dial to a cooler setting.
Check the controls. Costas says its not uncommon to find that
the refrigerator controls are set wrong. Someone may have
bumped the dial while putting away the milk or an inquisitive
toddler may have twisted the knob.
Cooling coils completely caked with pet hair and dust are
also incredibly common. Remove the front grille and vacuum
the coils.
COIL CLEANING
BRUSH
DIRTY
REFRIGERATOR
COILS
Watercomingout
of thedishwasher?
Costas says a leak, and an unusual whooshing sound coming
from the dishwasher, are sure signs that someone used regu-
lar dishwashing liquid rather than dishwasher detergent,
which is low sudsing. Costas squirts a bit of defoaming
solution, typically used in carpet shampoo machines, into the
dishwasher. But you can rinse all of the detergent from the
dishwasher by repeatedly adding a gallon of water and run-
ning the dishwasher on the drain cycle.
Electricstoveburner
notheating?
The first thing Costas asks is, Did you
clean the stove recently? Usually the
answer is yes, and the fix is easy. When
you slid the burner back into the top, the
terminal didnt engage with the recepta-
cle under the stove top or the plastic
terminal block got knocked out of its
holder. Lift the stove top to see what the
problem is. The fix usually involves re-
installing the terminal block. Also try
spreading the terminals slightly to create
a tighter connection.
Noflameat
theburners?
I If you dont hear gas coming out
when the burner is turned on, gas
isnt getting to the stove. Check to
make sure the gas is turned on.
I If you hear gas coming out but the
burner wont light, make sure the
stove is plugged in. Even gas
stoves need power.
I If the stove is getting gas and
has power, clean the igniter near
the burner or clean out the pilot
light hole.
TERMINALS
BURNER
IGNITER
RECEPTACLE
Here are some of the most common complaints Al Hildenbrand
gets, and the questions he asks.
I screwed in a new fuse but I still dont have any power.
Are you sure you used the same amperage fuse as the one you
replaced? Is the fuse good? Is it screwed in tight?
Ive checked the circuit breakers, but the outlet still doesnt work.
Some outlets are protected by upstream GFCIs or GFCI circuit break-
ers. Look in the circuit box for a GFCI circuit breaker and in bathrooms,
kitchens and laundry rooms for GFCI outlets. Test and reset them. This
may solve your problem.
I replaced the lightbulb but the light fixture still doesnt work.
Are you sure the new bulb is good? Try it in another light fixture and
make sure its screwed all the way in.
This outlet used to work. Now its dead.
Check all the switches in the room. One of them might control
the outlet.
TEST
BUTTON
GFCI
OUTLET
Beforeyoucall aboutheatorairconditioning
One of the most common causes of insufficient heat or cooled air is
a plugged furnace filter. Change inexpensive
woven fiberglass filters once a month or buy
a better-quality pleated filter and change it
every three months to
avoid heating and cool-
ing problems.
Another common
cause of cold rooms
during heating season
is a blocked cold air
return. Be sure your
couch or an area
rug isnt covering a
cold air return vent
because this can slow
the entry of heated
air into the room.
Furnacequit?
If you live in an area with snow and have
a furnace that vents out through the side
wall, make sure the vent pipes arent plugged
with frost or snow. Plugged vents cause the
furnace to shut off automatically. Once
youve unplugged the vents, reset the fur-
nace by switching off the power: Either turn
off the switch located on or near the furnace,
or flip the circuit breaker that controls the
furnace. Wait a minute, then switch the
power back on.
We always ask, Is the furnace switch
turned on? Youd be surprised how many
times someone in the house accidentally
switches the furnace off.
Bob Schmahl
Notgettingenoughheat?
Check the furnace filter. Bob Schmahl says,
When I ask people whens the last time you
changed the furnace filter and they give me
that deer-in-the-headlights stare, I know
what the problemis.
I can diagnose about 30 percent of electrical
problems over the phone. I play a game of
20 Questions to see if I can avoid making a trip
to the house. Al Hildenbrand
Beforeyoucall anelectrician
DIRTY
FILTER
E
nd caps and other laminate edges sometimes come loose
and can get broken off if not reglued, but as long as
the particleboard backer is in good condition, the fix
is simple.
Scrape off chunks of debris or dried lumps of glue from the
end cap. If the countertop is newer, first try to iron the end cap
back on with a medium-hot iron to reactivate the glue. However,
in most cases the loose piece will need to be reattached with con-
tact cement.
Sand rough areas with medium-grit sandpaper, then apply the
contact cement (Photo 1). Open nearby windows to dissipate the
fumes from the glue. After both sides are completely coated, keep
them separated with a toothpick (Photo 2) until the adhesive is
tacky. Carefully rejoin the two sides, starting at the back of the
glued area (Photo 3). Contact cement bonds instantly, and if the
wrong areas accidentally touch, youll have great difficulty pulling
them apart.
Finally, rub away any dried glue around the edges with your
finger. (Note: If your end cap has broken, scrape it off and take a
piece to a home center to find a matching replacement piece.)
Reglue
loose laminate
1
Spread contact cement on with the applicator or a dispos-
able natural-bristle brush, covering all edges.
2
Keep the two sides separate until the glue is dry but still a
little tackyusually in about 20 minutes.
3
Align and then push the laminate edge back against the
particleboard, applying pressure with a smooth block of
wood for a good bond.
SANDPAPER
TACKY CEMENT
APPLICATOR
Stop
leaks
in plumbing
joints
Alignslipjoints
preciselyforatightseal
Joints on chrome trap assemblies rely on rubber slip joint washers
for the seal, which often leak. If youre reassembling a chrome
trap, buy new slip joint washers and nuts. However, new washers
sometimes stick to the pipe, causing them to twist or distort as
you push themtight with the slip joint nut. To avoid this, lubricate
the drain tubing and slip joint with a little pipe joint compound
(Photo 1). The compound helps the washer slide smoothly and
creates a tighter seal.
Start the slipjoint
nut byhand, andtwist
it onuntil the threads
are engaged cor-
rectly. Hand-tighten
all joints first (Photo
2). Then adjust the
trap parts until
theyre aligned and
pitched slightly for
drainage. This is
key; a misaligned
joint will leak, even
with new washers.
Finally, use a large
slip joint pliers to
tighten the nuts an
additional half turn.
Plastic trap parts
use hard plastic slip
joint washers for a
seal. Make sure the
flat part is against
the nut with the
tapered side facing
the fitting.
Chooseflexible
supplytubes
The skinny copper or chrome
supply tubes used to connect
faucets and toilets (Photo 1) are tricky to
cut, bend and align. But you dont have to put up
with them. When youre replacing a faucet or toilet,
use flexible supply hoses with a braided covering instead
($3 to $6 each; Photo 2). They have rubber gaskets at each end
and dont require much force to seal. Theyre available in many
lengths and are flex-
ible enough to fit
almost any configu-
ration. The only
trick is buying a
connector with the
correct size nuts on
the ends. Take your
old tubing and the
nuts on each end
along with you to
the store to be sure
of an exact match.
Start the nuts
carefully and hand-
tighten. Then tighten
an additional half
turn(Photo 2). Avoid
overtightening. Its
easy to tighten the
nuts a little more if
the joint leaks.
RUBBER
SEAL
FAUCET
SUPPLYTUBE
(COPPER)
FAUCET
SUPPLYTUBE
(BRAIDED)
1
2
1
2
SLIP
JOINT
NUT
SLIP
JOINT
WASHER
TEFLON
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
ASSEMBLED
SLIP JOINT
Usetwotypesof Teflon
onthreadedjoints
Connections that rely on threaded pipes and fittings are prone to
leaks if theyre not sealed with either Teflon tape or Teflon pipe
joint compound. Careful plumbers use both on every joint for
extra security. Plumbers dont want to come back!
Start by wrapping the male threads with Teflon tape (Photo 1).
With the end of the threaded pipe facing you as shown, wrap the
tape clockwise. Usually three layers is enough. Once in a while,
youll run into a loose fitting that requires four or five wraps.
Stretch and tear the tape to complete the wrap.
Spread a thin layer of Teflon pipe joint compound over the
tape (Photo 2). If youre working with plastic pipe, choose Teflon
pipe joint compound thats compatible with it. Then start the
threads by hand before tightening the connection with wrenches
(Photo 3). Wipe away the excess.
Lubricatetheferrule
oncompressionjoints
Compression joints are most common on shutoff valves,
although you find themon other fittings as well. They have a brass
or plastic ring (ferrule) thats compressed into a recess when you
tighten the nut, forming a seal. Lubricating the pipe and the fer-
rule with a bit of Teflon pipe joint compound (Photo 1) helps the
ferrule slide along the pipe and squeeze tightly into the recessed
fitting with less wrench pressure (Photo 2). Tighten compression
fittings firmly with two wrenches to crimp the ferrule onto the
pipe (Photo 3). Also make sure the pipe or tube goes straight into
the fitting. Misalignment will cause a leak. If the fitting leaks after
you turn on the water, try tightening the nut an additional one-
quarter turn. This usually stops the leak.
TEFLONTAPE
THREADED
ADAPTER
TUBE OF
TEFLON PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
LAYER OF
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
TEFLONTAPE
PLUS PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
1
3
2
1
2
3
TEFLON
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
BRASS RING
(FERRULE)
NUT
SHUTOFF
VALVE
BRASS
FERRULE
1
Turn off the water supply to the shower. Then pry off the handle cap with
a small pocketknife to expose the internal handle screw.
W
hen your single-handle shower faucet drips and drips,
refusing to completely turn off, dont assume you have
to replace the whole faucet. Most faucets can be
repaired in an hour for less than $50.
Shown here are the fixes for a cartridge-style faucet. Cartridge
valves have a single handle and operate when the cartridge slides
in and out. Dont confuse them with single-handle ball-style
faucets, which have a dome-shaped casing under the handle.
Turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valves or at your
homes main valve. Turn on a faucet to make sure the water is off.
Remove the handle as shown in Photos 1 and 2. If the handle
sticks, try heating it with a hair dryer set onhot. If you still cant
get it off, use a special handle puller ($10 to $20 from a plumbing
parts distributor or home center).
Virtually every faucet manufacturer has a different method of
securing the cartridge to the faucet body. Look for a clip or spring
Repair
drippy showers
NEW CARTRIDGE
OLD CARTRIDGE
HANDLE
SCREW
HANDLE
KNOB
HANDLE
CAP
THE LOWDOWN ON LOW-
FLOW SHOWERHEADS
A low-flow, water-saving
showerhead can easily save
up to $10 a year in water
and water heating costs.
tip
2
Loosen and remove the handle screw. Pull off the handle
and set it aside.
and remove it (Photo 3). Cartridges are often difficult to pull out.
Some manufacturers include a removal cap with new cartridges.
Align the cap with the old cartridge ears and try to twist the car-
tridge loose. Then pull it out with pliers.
If you cant budge the old cartridge, youll need a cartridge
puller ($20 to $30 from a plumbing parts distributor). Make sure
the one you buy works on your brand of faucet. Look on the han-
dle or trim for the faucet brand or manufacturer. A knowledge-
able person at a plumbing parts store may be able to identify the
brand and model from a photo. Review Photos 4 and 5 for
instructions on using a cartridge puller. Make sure you twist the
cartridge loose before pulling it out (Photo 4). Take the old car-
tridge with you to a plumbing parts store or a home center to find
an exact replacement ($15 to $25).
Lubricate the cartridge sides, O-rings, retaining clip, cartridge
stem and handle screw threads with plumbers grease. Slide
the new cartridge into the faucet body. Some cartridges can only
be installed one way (to avoid reversing the hot and cold), so
follow the enclosed instructions. Reassemble the remaining
faucet components.
3
Pull off the stop tube. Pry up the cartridge retaining clip
with a small screwdriver or awl. Remove the handle washer
and then twist the cartridge stem loose and pull it out with pliers.
4
If its stuck, use a special cartridge puller. Unscrew the
hex screw and hex nut until threads are visible. Slide the
puller over the cartridge stem, aligning the tool ears with the
cartridge notches, and twist to loosen.
5
Turn the hex screw by hand until it bottoms out. Snug
up the hex nut by hand and tug on the cartridge puller
handle. If the cartridge wont pull out, hold the puller handle
steady and tighten the hex nut two full turns. Pull the cartridge
out of the faucet body. Buy an identical replacement cartridge,
align it properly and reassemble the parts.
CARTRIDGE
EARS
HEX
SCREW
HEX
NUT
CARTRIDGE
PULLER
THREADS
SHOWING
THREADS
VISIBLE
CARTRIDGE
STEM
HEX
SCREW
PULLER
HANDLE
HEX
NUT
ADJUSTABLE
WRENCH
CARTRIDGE
RETAINING CLIP
CARTRIDGE
STEM
HANDLE
WASHER
STOP
TUBE
HANDLE
SCREW
4
Lubricate the working
parts of the stem
assembly with heat-proof
faucet grease. Reassemble
the faucet.
3
Use a seat wrench to
remove the worn valve
seat. The new seat must
match the old one exactly.
2
Remove the worn washer
and replace it with the
correct type: flat or beveled.
The new washer should fit
snugly.
1
Remove the screw
holding the handle,
then loosen and remove the
packing nut. Remove the
stem assembly.
A leaky faucet has a torturous way of wearing on nerves and
water resources. Even a slow drip can waste hundreds of gal-
lons per month. Luckily, most dripping washer-type faucets
can be fixed in 30 minutes for less than a dollar.
To repair a washer-type faucet, youll need to replace the
washer on the bottom of the valve stem and sometimes
replace the valve seat as well. Replace washers for both the hot
and cold water, not just the one thats leaking. Before you
begin, turn off the water-supply valves and close the sink stop-
per so small parts wont disappear down the drain.
Most faucet handles are secured by a screw, which is some-
times covered by a snap-on cap or button. You may need to
tap, wiggle or pry the handle a bit to remove it. The washer on
the end of the valve stem may be flat or beveled. The new
washer should be the same profile and fit snugly inside the cir-
cular lip without having to be forced.
With your finger, feel down inside the area where the stem
assembly enters the faucet to determine whether the valve
seat is rough or grooved. If it is, replace it with a newvalve seat
that exactly matches the old in diameter, height and threads.
PACKING
NUT
SEATWRENCH
VALVE SEAT
HEAT-PROOF
GREASE
Repairawasher-typefaucet
Repairanoutdoorfaucet
Most outdoor faucets, including the freeze-proof one
shown, have a washer at the end of the long valve stem.
Freeze-proof faucets are particularly prone to worn
washers because, when the faucet is turned off, it contin-
ues to drain for a few seconds; consequently, people
tend to turn the faucet tighter, damaging the rubber
washer. Before beginning your repair, turn off the faucets
water supply.
1
Unscrew the handle and remove
the packing nut. Hold the faucet
steady while loosening the nut to
avoid twisting the interior pipe.
2
Pull the stem out of the faucet.
For removal, some stems have to
be turned so a key lines up with a
slot. Reattach the handle to turn and
pull the stem.
3
Remove and replace the rubber
washer on the stem end. If there
are rubber O-rings on the stem,
replace these as well.
PACKING
NUT
RUBBER
WASHER
5
Clean out the new valve to remove any dislodged mineral
deposits. To do this, turn off water, take off cap, and then
open water shutoff valve slowly to let water bubble out.
4
Trim the bowl refill tube to length to avoid kinking and
install it. Push the refill tube over the stem on the valve
and clip it to the rim of the overflow tube so water will be
directed straight into overflow. Install and tighten the water
supply tube and turn on the water to test the toilet.
3
Adjust the length of the new fill valve by twisting the fill
valve base stem until the critical water mark (see Photo 4)
is 1 in. above the top of the overflow tube. Install the rubber
gasket and test-fit the height by setting the valve in place.
Orient the fill valve so the bowl refill tube points toward the
overflow tube. Secure the fill valve with the locknut.
2
Remove the old fill valve after unscrewing the locknut
under the tank, then lift out the mechanism. The float ball
and refill tube are attached and will come out with it. Clean the
area around the hole where the fill valve mounts to the tank.
1
Disconnect
the water
supply tube
located under
the tanks bot-
tom left side.
Inside the tank,
attach locking
pliers to the
base of the old
fill valve to keep
it from spinning.
With adjustable
pliers, remove
the locknut on
the outside of
the tank.
OLD FILL
VALVE
LOCKING
PLIERS
WATER
SUPPLY
TUBE
SHUTOFF
VALVE
OLD FILL VALVE
FLOAT BALL
RUBBER
GASKET
NEW FLOAT
BASE STEM
OVERFLOWTUBE
BOWL REFILL
TUBE
CRITICAL
WATER
MARK
RETAINING
CLIP
FILL
VALVE
CAP
Overhaul a toilet tank
I
ts often easier to replace the entire working
mechanism inside the toilet tank rather
than to replace it piecemeal. A universal
replacement kit and a few tools will silence the
annoying watery sounds keeping you awake at
night. First, shut off the water supply at the
shutoff underneath the toilet or at the homes
main shutoff. Be prepared to replace the toilet
shutoffcorrosion or lack of use frequently
causes it to seize or not close completely.
With the water off, flush the toilet to drain
the tank. Sponge up the remaining water in the
tank. Be sure the tank is completely empty
before you remove any parts.
4
Snake the drain. Remove the trap
arm, slide the spiral end of the
snake into the drain and feed it all
the way to the clog. Lock the snakes
offset handle in place and crank the
snake clockwise while pushing it for-
ward. Slide the handle back and
relock as necessary. The spiral end
helps work the snake around the
bends and break up clogs.
3
Clear the P-trap. Place a bucket
under the trap, loosen the slip
nuts using a pipe wrench, if neces-
sary, remove the trap and clear the
debris. Reassemble the trap.
2
Clear stoppers of hair and debris.
For sinks with stoppers locked in
place by a pivot rod, first remove all
standing water from the sink. Unscrew
the retaining nut on the back of the
sink drain and remove the pivot rod
from the stopper. Remove the stopper
and clear away clog. Reinstall the
stopper assembly and test the drain
for leaks.
1
Plunge the sink drain. Fill the
sink with 2 in. of water.
Completely cover the drain hole with
the plunger bell. Cover the overflow
hole with a wet sponge to maintain
pressure. Make the first plunge slowly
to expel air from the bell; then
plunge in and out vigorously 15 to
20 times. Add water as needed to
keep the bell covered and air out.
WET
SPONGE IN
PLASTIC
BAG
PLUNGER
BELL
STOPPER
TRAP
ARM
SNAKE
Unclogasinkdrain
Clogged or slow-draining sinks and tubs are more than a nuisance; they can put
your entire bathroom or kitchen out of action and disrupt your familys busy
schedule. But as frustrating as they make life, most drain clogs can be quickly
cleared, even by a novice, in 10 to 15 minutes.
The first step to clear a clog is locating it. This task often takes some trial and
error, but here are some clues. If only one fixture is clogged, the problem is
either in the stopper mechanism, the P-trap or the drain leading away fromthe
fixture. If a group of fixtures is affected, look for the clog downstream from
where their drains join.
P-TRAP
SLIP NUTS
Uncloga
bathtubdrain
In bathrooms, by far the most
common source of clogs is a wad of
hai r and soap scum wrapped
around the stopper mechanism or,
in a shower, lying just underneath
the drain cover. Always check for
this problem before resorting to
taking drains apart for snaking.
2
If the clog remains, run the
snake down the overflow hole
to clear obstructions. If still unsuc-
cessful, replace the overflow plate
and stopper mechanism, and remove
the P-trap through access hole or
from below. Then run the snake
down the drain as you would a sink
drain.
OVERFLOW
HOLE
SNAKE
TUB DRAIN
1
Unscrew the overflow plate and
remove it and the stopper
mechanism. Some tub stoppers have
two main partsa spring or weight
in the vertical overflow drain and an
arm attached to the stopper plug in
the horizontal tub drain. Clean the
stopper parts, cover the overflow
hole and plunge the drain.
Reassemble the stopper.
OVERFLOW
DRAIN
OVERFLOW
PLATE
STOPPER
MECHANISM
PIVOT
ROD
RETAINING
NUT
1
Unscrew the old nipple with a pipe wrench. If the nipple is
too short to grab with a wrench, use an internal pipe
wrench ($10).
2
Wrap both ends of the new nipple with thread tape and
screw it into the fitting inside the wall. Seal around it with
silicone caulk and screw on the new spout.
Replaceatubspout
B
athtub spouts can go bad in three ways: First, the diverter can wear
out so it no longer blocks the water flow and sends water to the
shower head. Second, the threads inside the spout can crack or
corrode where the spout screws onto the pipe. Water can then
trickle along the pipe and drip inside the wall. Finally, the spouts finish can
flake off or corrode.
Replacement is the solution to any of these problems. Anewspout ($10 to
$20) and everything else you might need are available at hardware stores and
home centers. But before youbuy a newspout, determine what type youneed.
First look under the spout. If you see a setscrew (Photo A), you have a slip-
on spout. The setscrew might be smaller and harder to see than the one
shown here; you may need a flashlight to spot it. Replacing a slip-on spout is
easy: Just loosenthe setscrew(usually witha hex wrench) andpull the spout off
the copper pipe that protrudes fromthe wall. Twist the spout as you pull and
be gentle so you dont loosen
any pipe connections inside the
wall. Then slide on the new
spout and tighten the setscrew.
If the spout doesnt have a
setscrew, its a screw-on spout
(Photos B and C). Twist the old
spout counterclockwise to
remove it. If the pipe that pro-
trudes from the wall is copper
with a threaded fitting (Photo B), simply cut off the fitting with a tubing
cutter ($10) and install a new slip-on spout (Photo A). If the pipe coming
out of the wall is steel (Photo C), you need a newscrew-on spout. Ideally, the
new spout will fit perfectly onto the old pipe. But theres a good chance that
the pipe protrudes too far or not far enough. Theres also a chance that the
threads are too corroded for you to screw on a new spout. Either way, youll
have to remove the old pipe (Photo 1) and screwin a newpipe of the correct
length (Photo 2). Short sections of threaded pipe (callednipples) are usu-
ally available in 1-in. increments. They cost less than $2 each, so buy a couple
of different lengths and save yourself a trip back to the store.
Plumbers say that
leg-shaving is the leading
cause of tub spout
trouble. The spout makes
a convenient footrest for
shaving, but that can
damage the diverter or
loosen pipe connections.
tip
INTERNAL PIPE
WRENCH
Spouttypes
B
Screw-on spouts have threads deep
inside. They can connect to a copper
threaded fitting or to steel pipe.
C
Screw-on spouts may have threads at
the back end. Most come with a bushing
so they fit either 1/2-in. or 3/4-in. pipe.
A
Slip-on spouts slide over 1/2-in. cop-
per pipe and fasten with a setscrew.
This universal version also has threads
inside, so it can screw onto threaded pipe.
SETSCREW
BUSHING
Replaceawaterpipesection
The key to replacing a leaky water valve is to use a
special slip or no-stop coupling (available
at home centers for less than $3). Unlike tradi-
tional couplings, no-stop couplings dont have
a flange or dimple that stops the plumbing
pipe once its inserted halfway into the cou-
pling. This lets you install the coupling and
move it back out of the way, then have room
to insert the newsection of pipe.
Turn off the water, then cut the pipe about
6 in. from each side of the leaky valve, using a
pipe cutter or a hacksaw. Place the no-stop
coupling over the existing pipe. Cut a new sec-
tion of pipe to replace the piece you cut out (be
sure to factor in the length of the water
valve). Solder the pipe to the valve,
then sti ck the assembl ed section
between the two existing pipes. Move
the no-stop coupling over the newpipe,
then solder all the joints.
Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, then solder it to the
assembly and the existing pipe.
Slide the no-stop coupling over the pipe, then install the new valve and
pipe assembly.
NO-STOP
COUPLING
STOPPED
COUPLING
(TWO
STYLES)
Tightenafloppy
faucethandle
If you have a loose valve handle
on a shower, bathroom or kitchen
faucettighten the screw that
holds the handle in place. With
some faucets, youll have to pry off
the metal button at the center of
the handle. With others, youll find
a setscrew near the base of the
handle. Setscrews usually require a
hex (or Allen) wrench. If tighten-
ing doesnt work, the stem inside
the handle may be worn, especially
if its plastic. Heres a trick to
tighten worn stems on most types
of faucets: Wrap the stem tightly
with Teflon pipe thread plumbers
tape and slip the handle back over
the stem. In most cases, a single
wrap creates a snug fit.
PLUMBERS
TAPE
WORN
VALVE
STEM
NO-STOP
COUPLING
1
Buy and assemble matching replace-
ment parts. Mark the cutting points
on the old drains about 1/2 in. longer
than the replacement.
3
Slide the mission coupling onto one
pipe and cement plastic couplings
onto the other two pipes.
4
Center the mission coupling over
the third joint and tighten the
bands firmly.
Atrickforsplicinginplasticdrainpipe
When fixing a leak in a drainpipe at a junction with other lines, dont try to cement
(solvent-weld) all the newcouplings. Most drain systems use rigid pipes fairly large in
diameter. You cant flex them enough to slide on that last fitting and get it to seat
fully. Rather than struggle with cement, pros use a mission coupling (Photos 3 and
4) that clamps over the last joint. Even though a mission coupling costs $5 to $10,
compared with a 50 plastic coupling, the extra cost is worth it. Sometimes, pros will
even use two mission couplings in tight situations. Photos 1 4 walk you through the
process. Be sure to buy couplings with full steel sleeves, and make sure mission cou-
plings meet code requirements in your area.
2
Cut the plastic at a right angle
using a fine-tooth saw and remove
the assembly.
PLASTIC
COUPLING
MISSION
COUPLING
CUTTING
POINT
CUTTING
POINT
STEEL
SLEEVE
BAND
CLAMP
SAW
Simple
solutionfora
troublesome
lightfixture
Do you have bulbs that burn
out quickly, lights that flicker,
or a light fixture that simply
doesnt work even though
theres power to it? Try this
60-second fix before you call
an electrician.
Turn off the power to the
fixture and use a noncontact
voltage tester to make sure
the power is off. Then reach
into the bulb socket with a
flat-blade screwdriver and
gentl y pry up on the tab
thats centered at the bottom
to restore good contact with
the bulb.
TAB
Pros favorite shop tools
Cut dust, savetime
The best addition to my woodworking
shop over the past 10 years was a basic,
low-cost dust collection system, said
Gary Wentz, senior editor for The Family
Handyman. My goal was cleaner air, but
I soon found that a dust collector has an
even greater benefit: Its a time-saving
tool. It drastically cuts cleanup timeI
dont have to sweep off every surface and
tool. I used to do the dustiest work, like
sanding or cutting MDF, outdoors. NowI
do these jobs in the shopno need to
drag tools and cords outside.
A dust collector is basically a big
vacuum, but it sucks in a lot more air
(and dust!) than the most powerful
shop vacuums.
Complete with hoses and fittings,
my small-scale dust collection system
cost less than $300,Wentz said.
Some home centers carry dust collec-
tors, but the best place to browse is
online. Just search for dust collector.
Fast screwguns
What I like about the automatic-feed screw guns is their
speed. You dont have to handle individual screws
the screws come in strips that you feed into the gun, said
Jon Jensen, set builder for The Family Handyman and for-
mer contractor. Theyre wonderful tools for drywalling,
fastening deckingany job where you need to drive a
lot of screws. You can adjust the depth for sinking screws
and for different types of screws. Thats what makes it
really versatile.
The DuraSpin 14.4-volt model by Senco ($150;
senco.com) and the Autofeed Screwdriver by Makita
($110; makita.com) are two automatic-feed screw guns.
And the cordless option is another big benefit.
You just keep the tool running, and it drives each
screw to the exact same depth each time, Jensen said. You
can really get a lot of work done fast.
Gary Wentz
Specialsection:Use tools like a pro
Fast andeasyjoinery
A Kreg Jig will let you make a joint in
about two minutes. I first saw the jig
during a product demonstration at a
tool show years ago, said Jeff Gorton,
associate editor for The
Family Handyman.
I was impressed
enough that I
went out and
bought one. Its
become one of
my favorite tools
because it lets me
build furniture, cabi-
nets and bookcases without having
to cut fancy (and time-consuming)
joinery.
A Kreg Jig lets you drill pocket holes,
then screwthe pieces together with special
screws. Youll leave visible holes, which
you can hide inside the project or fill with
special pocket-hole plugs.
Kreg sells several different pocket
screw kits. At a minimum youll need a
two-hole drill guide similar to the one
shown above, a step drill with a stop
collar, a long driver bit for the pocket-hole
screws, and a face clamp. These will cost
you about $75. To see the full range of
Kreg products, or to find a dealer, go to
kregtools.com.
Easy-to-handleair hoses
Ive gone through many, many air hoses over the years
rubber, plastic, synthetic, you name it,said Travis Larson, sen-
ior editor for The Family Handyman. They all get hard and
inflexible in cold weather, theyre hard to coil, black ones leave
marks all over walls when youre trimming, and theyre very heavy.
The four or five survivors are all hanging neatly in my shop, unused for the three years
since I converted to polyurethane lines.
Polyurethane is soft, so its more flexible than rubber. The air hoses are lightweight,
flexible and easy to coil up at the end of the day, even in low temps. They dont leave scuff
marks, so you can use them inside without marking up the walls. And the hoses are tough
enough to withstand use and abuse on job sites.
I love the way the hoses slippery surface glides over everything. You dont have to
constantly pull on them to drag them, and they dont get hung up like the old-fashioned
hoses did, Larson said. Theyre well worth the premium price tag.
A 50-ft. polyurethane hose costs $30, versus about $10 for a traditional
hose. Polyurethane hoses are available at some home centers or online (amazon.com is
one source).
Dual-usewirestripper
I used to use two tools for wiring
projectsa goofy little
stamped metal tool to strip
off sheathing and a pair of
wire strippers to strip
insulation off individual
wires, said Ken Collier,
editor in chief for The Fam-
ily Handyman. Those days
are gone. My new wire strippers
do both tasks admirably.
Ive rewired my cabin, my workshop and
most of my 100-plus-year-old house. Wire strip-
pers that strip the sheathing and the insulation
make wiring faster, easier and more pleasant.
These strippers start at $15 at home centers.
Jeff Gorton
Travis Larson
Ken Collier
2-HOLE
DRILL
GUIDE
FACE
CLAMP
Smoothrollers,
smoothfinishes
Before a painter friend turned me on to foam
rollers, I had a hard time getting a smooth finish
on doors and woodwork.
These mini rollers, only 4 or 6 in. long, are
made of dense foam that spreads the paint or
varnish smoothly for a uniform, mark-free fin-
ish (unlike nap rol lers, which leave tiny
bumps). I was amazed the first time I used one.
But the rollers arent perfect. They spread
the finish thin, so you usually need two coats.
And the rollers are a pain to clean, but since
most cost less than $5 at home centers and paint
stores, you could toss them when youre done.
Eric Smith, associate editor for
The Family Handyman
Eric Smith
Lights that last (almost) forever
LED (light-emitting diode) flashlights and work lights are fabulous because the
bulbs seem to last forever and so do the batteriesmaking cordless trouble lights
feasible (finally!). LEDs are great on a variety of levels. Unlike traditional flashlights
or work lights, LEDs have
unbreakable bulbs that
last 50,000 hours or more.
They cast a clear white
light thats easier on the
eyes than the yel low-
white light of standard
bulbs.
LEDs consume only
one-tenth the battery
power of regular flash-
lights and work lights.
Sure, LED flashlights and
work lights cost a bit more
on the front end, but you
wont have to replace the
batteries or bulbs for
years. Theyre worth
checking out!
Elisa Bernick,
associate editor for
The Family Handyman
Elisa Bernick
Threetools inone
The Japanese cats paw has three intended uses:
It pulls nails, works as a pry bar (the thin blade
will get under just about anything) and acts like
a small hammer to whack things. Once you own
one, youll find other uses for it too.
It has a permanent place
in my tool belt, said Ken
Collier, editor in chief for
The Family Handyman.
I use it for prying open
cans, as a rough-and-
ready scraper, and for
pul ling smal l nails that
would slide out of the ham-
mer claw. Its an always-with-
me tool.
Japanese cats paws and other small cats
bars start at $10 at home centers.
Ken Collier
Specialsection:Use tools like a pro
Air compressor
that fits on
your belt
When Kobalt hit the market
with its portable compressed CO2 regulator kit last
year, my first thought was, What took so long?
Its a great idea that seems long overdue. The
cylinder powers pneumatic brad nailers and
staplers with up to 120 psi, so you dont have to
drag around a bulky (and loud!) air compressor
and hoses for small jobs.
The cylinder fits on your tool belt and has a
10-ft. hose. I hooked mine up to a nail gun
and installed the baseboards in my kitchen. The
20-oz. cylinder gives you up to 675 shots with a
brad gun. Its great for projects in finished rooms
when you dont want to run air hoses and worry
about themscuffing the floor or walls. Lowes sells
the regulator kit for $85 (buy it online at
lowes.com). New cylinders cost $6 for 9 oz. and
$9 for 20 oz. when you trade in your old tank.
Brett Martin, associate editor for
The Family Handyman
P
h
o
t
o
c
o
u
r
t
e
s
y
o
f
K
o
b
a
l
t
Mightymidget batteries
Ive tossed a dozen perfectly
good cordless dril ls
because the batteries
died and new ones
cost as much as a
new dril l. Thats
one reason I love
new lithium-ion bat-
teries: They have a
longer life spantwice
as long, according to some manufacturers.
But the best thing about lithium-ion batter-
ies is that theyre about half the size and weight
of other batteries. That means power-guzzling
tools like saws can pack more punch and run
longer without being too heavy. And the
screwdrivers are small enough to drop in your
tool pouch, but powerful enough for just about
any job.
Gary Wentz, senior editor for
The Family Handyman
Gary Wentz
Brett Martin
Specialsection:Use tools like a pro
Theapron
Bruce wears an apron
while woodworking.
Hes convinced of
its utility (Cross-
Back Shop
Apron, $22 at
rockl er. com).
Cal i pers, tape
measure, squares,
dust collector remote
switch, wood shields for glue
clampstheyre right at your
fingertips. And a small screw
gun is another invaluable tool.
As you can see from thi s
yellow crust on the front, my
apron dou-
bles as a rag
for gl uey fi n-
gers, Bruce said.
I can t i magi ne
doi ng woodworki ng
without it.
C
ustom furniture maker Bruce
Kieffer spent two years plan-
ning and building his dream
shop and its array of power tools, the
dust collection system and a spacious
work area.
And when it comes to woodwork-
ing, nobody is neater or more orderly
and efficient than Bruce. Try these
tips out in your shop and transform
your woodworking into a far more
civilized and fun activity.
DUST COLLECTOR
REMOTE SWITCH
METAL RULER
AND CALIPERS
CHALK
AND PENCILS
6" COMBINATION
SQUARE
SMALL
SCREW GUN
SLIPPERS
Shop tips from a pro
SLIDING
TRY SQUARE
SMALL
MEASURING
TAPE
Stay-flat plywoodspacers
Little belted-together blocks are stuck between pieces of
plywood alongside Bruces lumber rack.
Plywood or other sheet stock can warp, especially if
its stored surface to surface. The blocks separate the
sheets so air can circulate on both sides. Flat sheets from
the lumberyard stay flat this way, no matter how long
theyre stored, Bruce said. The leather is flexible, so you
can use them on any combination of thicknesses of sheet
goods.
The blocks are a snap to make from scrap wood and
leather. Cut two 1-in.-wide strips of leather (or vinyl or
heavy cloth) and space and screw 2-in. x 3/4-in. x 1-in.
blocks along the strap. The air space also keeps them a
lot easier to grab when you need to pull one out. For
full sheets, use three sets
of spacers, one at
each end and
one in the middle.
Polysquirter
Want to know how to avoid drips and messes when you apply
polyurethane varnish to large surfaces or multiple pieces of
trim? Bruce grabs his High-Tech Glue Bottle Poly Applicator
(an ordinary squeeze bottle) and squirts narrow beads of
finish onto the boards, then rolls them out. The poly flows
neatly onto the wood and rarely drips onto the floor. After
practicing a few beads, you can squirt out just the right
amount for each board.
SPACERS
Find-anythinghardwaredrawer
Nothing has a chance to randomly accumulate in
Bruces shopnot in apron pockets, on cabinet
shelves, not even in a drawer. There is truly a place
for everything, everything goes in its place, and no
usable area remains empty. One of his hardware
drawers is a sublime example.
In this drawer, movable partitions are held in
place by strips of foam weather stripping at the
front and back. The 44-plus boxes rest on edge,
labels up, for easy grabbing and stowing. I key the
labels in on the computer and print them out on
sticky labels. Think of never having to wonder
where to find a 1-in. drywall screw or a 3/8-in.
washer!
Shop for boxes at craft, tackle, office or dollar
stores. But if you want lots of just about any partic-
ular size box, check out althor.com. This is for
super-organized shop people, though. The minimum
order is $100! But you get tons of high-quality
boxes for the money.
High-and-dryplywood
Bruce has some riser blocks supporting a fewsheets
of plywood. I just cut some 2-in.-wide plywood
scraps and screwed them together to form T-blocks
and store the plywood over them. If snow,
slush or rain sneaks in on the car tires
and gets the floor wet, the
wood is safe.
Stay-put
driver bits
The onl y seemi ngl y
randombut i n fact
truly ingenioussetup in
Bruces shop is this: a few
magnets stuck to shelf
standards inside cabi-
nets with assorted driver
bits attached. Theyre
right there when I need
them, and those babies
stay magnetized!
MAGNET
Specialsection:Use tools like a pro
WEATHER
STRIPPING
RISER
BLOCK