PLAN

YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Croatia ....... 2
Map .................................. 4
17 Top Experiences ........ 6
Need to Know ................. 14
Whats New ..................... 16
If You Like... ..................... 17
Month by Month ............. 19
Itineraries ........................ 22
Travel with Children ...... 30
Regions at a Glance ....... 33
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND
CROATIA
Croatia Today ................. 276
History ............................. 279
Culture & People ............ 294
The Cuisine ..................... 299
Architecture in Croatia.... 305
The Natural
Environment.................... 308
The Arts........................... 311
Croatia Today
Brand New to the EU
Precariously poised between the Balkans and Central Europe, Croatia
has something of a love-hate affair with the outside world, including its
next-door neighbours. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Croatia joining the EU in
July 2013 opened a can of worms. Slovenia keeps nitpicking and com li
cating life for Croatia; and with Europe heaving under the debt crisis,
Germany is displaying discomfort about extending the borders of the EU
On home turf, things arent simple either. In January 2012, about 44%
of Croats turned u to vote in the referendum on the EU ascension and
d h j i i b i f i d d
USA CROATIA UK
populationper sq km
30people
e etarians & Vegans
A usefu phrase is Ja ne jedemmeso (I dont eat meat), but even then you
may be served soup with bits of bacon swimming in it. That is slowl
hanging and vegetarians are making inroads in Croatia, but chan e
re mostly happening in the larger cities. Zagreb, Rijeka, Split an Du
rovnik nowhave vegetarian restaurants, and even standard restaurant
in the big cities are beginning to offer vegetarian menus. Vegetarian
may have a harder time in the north (Zagorje) and the east (Slavonia
where traditional fare has meat as its main focus. Specialities that don
use meat include manetra od bobia (bean and fresh maize soup) an a
THE OLIVE OIL BOOM OF ISTRIA
Theres an olive tree on Veli Brijun in the Brijuni Islands proven to be 160
Early Greek and Roman manuscripts praised the quality of Istrian olive
revival of this ancient agricultural activity, with 94 listed growers on the
and a network of signposted olive oil roads. In Istria, the plant is cultivat
attention, and each tree given love and care. Several growers have recei
international awards and top marks for their fruity nectars, which is no
competitive world olive oil market.
Duilio Beli is a relative newbie on the scene. The son of a miner, he g
and went on to become a successful Zagreb businessperson before sta
production. With his wife, Bosiljka, an agriculture specialist, he bought a
Faana a decade ago and started what has become a real hit among go
has five olive groves in Istria, with a total of 5500 trees. Under the brand
Croatias Brand of
Tourism
Despite its reputation as Europes vac-
ation hot spot, Croatia hasnt given in to
mass tourism. The Mediterranean As It
Once Was motto of Croatias tourist board
may be overblown in popular destinations
where development has taken a rm hold,
but pockets of authentic culture can be
found and theres still plenty to discover
o the grid. This country in transition,
on the brink between Mitteleuropa and
Mediterranean, oers good news for visi-
tors on all budgets: Croatia is as diverse as
its landscapes. Some of the more popular
Adriatic locales come with hefty price tags
in the summer months, while continental
Croatia costs a fraction of what youll pay
on the coast. The chic and trendy outposts
may make you forget that a civil war raged
through Croatia in the 1990s. The way in
which the country has bounced back is a
sign of its peoples resilience people who
are remarkable hosts once you cross the
touristlocal barrier.
Coastal Croatia
Theres a buzz and an undeniable star ap-
peal to Croatias coast. Youll get glitz and
glamour in Dubrovnik and Hvar, where
night action and celebrity-spotting, design-
er cocktail in hand, is de rigueur, and fancy
yachts dock in droves. For those wanting
peace and quiet, hideaways aplenty wait to
Welcome to
Croatia

All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

PAGE
2
PAGE
275
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
Zagorje
Medieval Castles
Architecture
Countryside
Medieval Castles
Postcard-perfect fairy-tale
castles dot the wooded hills
of this bucolic region. The
neo-Gothic Trakoan offers
an intimate insight into
the life of former Croatian
nobility, while the formid-
able Veliki Tabor, complete
with towers, turrets and
other castle trimmings,
looks down froma verdant
hilltop.
Architecture
Soak up the baroque archi-
tecture of Varadin. Its 18th-
century buildings shine
bright in their fully restored
glory, with facades freshly
painted in the original
pastels: ochres, pinks, pale
blues and creams.
Countryside
The pretty pastoral
panoramas of Zagorjes
vineyard-covered hills,
cornfields, dense forests and
gingerbread cottages are the
stuff of storybooks. Savour
traditional Croatian farm
life as it unfolds away from
the tourist hullabaloo down
south.
p 68
Zagreb

Cafe Culture
Museums & Galleries
Food
Cafe Culture
A bastion of Europes famed
cafe culture, Zagrebs side-
walk cafes are perennially
packed (except in winter),
offering strong coffee that
packs a punch, and the
chance to lazily linger over
a cup for hours on end.
The prime time to experi-
ence this is during the
coffee-sipping and people-
watching ritual known as
pica, which happens on
warm-weather Saturday
mornings, when everyone
and their mother comes
out to show off their latest
outfits.
Museums & Galleries
Zagrebs cultural flag-
ship, the swish Museum
of Contemporary Art,
has brought an artistic
flavour to the citys
streetscapes, while the
new quirky Museumof
Broken Relationships
has quickly become a
favourite. Then there are
the old-timers, such as
the Mimara Museum,
with a massive collection
of painting and sculp-
ture, and the delightful
Croatian Museumof
Nave Art. To tap into the
contemporary art beat
pulsating through the
city, dont miss the inde-
pendent gallery spaces
that put on cutting-edge
shows.
Food
On the food front, there
is plenty to explore in
Croatias capital, which
has become a foodie des-
tination in recent years.
A handful of destination
restaurants showcase in-
novative culinary special-
ities prepared with high-
quality ingredients from
around the country, while
inexpensive taverns serve
no-frills but real-deal tra-
ditional fare to acquaint
p 38
regions
at a
glance
33
Need to
Know
Currency
Kuna (KN)
Language
Croatian
High Season
(Jul & Aug)
Peak season brings
the best weather.
Hvar Island gets the
most sun, followed by
Split, Korula Island
and Dubrovnik.
Prices are at their
highest and coastal
destinations at their
busiest.

Shoulder
(MayJun &Sep)
The coast is
gorgeous, the Adriatic
is warmenough
for swimming, the
crowds are sparse
and prices are lower.
In spring and early
summer, the steady
maestral wind makes
sailing great.
Low Season
(OctApr)
Winters in
continental Croatia
are cold and prices
are low.
Southeasterly
winds produce
heavy cloud cover;
northeasterlies bring
powerful gusts of dry
air and blow away
clouds.
When to Go?
#
#
#
#
Warmto hot summers, mild winters
Warmto hot summers, cold winters
Mild summers, cold winters
Zagreb
GO MayJul,
SepOct
Rijeka
GO MaySep
Split
GO AprOct
Dubrovnik
GO AprOct
Your Daily
Budget
Budget less than
450KN
Private
accommodation; dorm
beds around 150KN
Plenty of markets for
self-caterers
Cheap taverns, pizza
and ice-cream
Lots of free activities
Midrange
450
900KN
Double roomin a
midrange hotel
Meals in decent
restaurants and drinks
at night
Atour or two, plus
activities
Top end over
900KN
Small boutique
hotels and four-star
properties
Meals in top-tier
restaurants
Spa treatments
Tours, trips and car
rental
14
Krka
National
Park Kornati
Islands

#
#

Solin
Plitvice Lakes
National Park
#
#
#
#
#
#

SLOVENIA
HUNGARY
Y
SER
BOSNIA
&
HERCEGOVINA
MONTENE
Pag
Island
Trogir
Zadar
Split
Dubrovnik
ZAGREB
RI ATI C
SEA
#
I SBN 978- 1- 74220- 302- 7
9 781742 203027
9 9 5 2 5
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lonelyplanet.com/apps
croatia-7-cover.indd 2 10/01/2013 4:31:16 PM
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Anja Muti and Vesna Maric
_
Zagorje
p68
Kvarner
p131
Northern
Dalmatia
p167
Split &
Central
Dalmatia
p196
Dubrovnik &
Southern
Dalmatia
p242
Slavonia
p81
Zagreb
p38
Istria
p95
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory AZ ................. 318
Transport ........................ 326
Language ........................ 332
Index ................................ 340
Map Legend .................... 351
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE
ROAD
t under
a (7KN
e, including
ompanies
ompanies listed here
mong the largest.
totrans (%060 30 20
; www.autotrans.hr) Based
n Rijeka. Connections to
stria, Zagreb, Varadin and
Kvarner.
Brioni Pula (%052 535 155;
www.brioni.hr) Based in Pula.
Connections to Istria, Padua,
Split, Trieste and Zagreb.
Contus (%023 317 062)
Based in Zadar. Connections
o Split and Zagreb.
roatiabus (%01-61 13 073;
ww.croatiabus.hr) Connects
greb with towns in Zagorje
Istria.
oborek (%01-48 19
w.samoborcek.hr)
greb with towns in
chedules
us tick-
the
a few years old and mak
some routes much faster. It
is unknown when the auto-
route is expected to reach
Dubrovnik. Zagreb and Rijeka
are now connected by motor-
way, and an Istrian motorway
has shortened the travel time
to Italy considerably.
Although the new roads
are in excellent condition,
there are stretches where
service stations and facilities
are scarce.
Note that if you are using
the motorway to go south
dam
Otherw
ity for dam
vehicle is us
as a percentag
value, beginning
2000KN.
Driving Licenc
Any valid driving licen
ficient to drive legally a
a car; an international d
licence is not necessary
The Hrvatski Autok
(HAK, CroatianAuto Club;
40 800; www.hak.hr; Aven
Dubrovnik 44) offers help
advice. To get help on th
road, you can contact H
ROAD DISTANCES (KM)
572
566 340
34 494 216
--- 459 601
--- 495
---
PAGE
36
PAGE
317
Look out for these icons:

Our authors top
recommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their
favourite places are listed first

A green or
sustainable option
No payment
required
ZAGREB . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
AROUND ZAGREB . . . . . . . . 65
Medvednica Nature Park . . .65
Samobor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
ZAGORJE . . . . . . . . . . .68
Varadin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Varadinske Toplice . . . . . . . 75
Trakoan Castle . . . . . . . . .76
Krapina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Veliki Tabor Castle . . . . . . . .79
Kumrovec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Klanjec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Marija Bistrica . . . . . . . . . . 80
SLAVONIA . . . . . . . . . . 81
Osijek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Baranja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Vukovar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
Ilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93
ISTRIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
THE ISTRIAN COAST . . . . . . 97
Pula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Brijuni Islands . . . . . . . . . . .105
Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
Around Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Pore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
THE ISTRIAN INTERIOR . . 118
Labin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Vodnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Svetvinenat . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Pazin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Graie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
Around Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Motovun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Istarske Toplice . . . . . . . . . .129
Gronjan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
KVARNER . . . . . . . . . . 131
KVARNER COAST . . . . . . . . 133
Rijeka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Opatija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139
Volosko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
KRK ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Krk Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Punat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Vrbnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Baka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
CRES & LOINJ
ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Cres Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Loinj Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
RAB ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Rab Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Lopar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
NORTHERN
DALMATIA . . . . . . . . . 167
ZADAR REGION . . . . . . . . . 169
Zadar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
Ugljan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Plitvice Lakes
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Paklenica National
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Starigrad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
DUGI OTOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Sali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Telaica Bay . . . . . . . . . . .183
Boava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
PAG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Pag Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
Novalja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
IBENIK-KNIN
REGION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
ibenik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Krka National Park . . . . . . .193
Kornati Islands . . . . . . . . . .194
SPLIT & CENTRAL
DALMATIA . . . . . . . . . 196
SPLIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
AROUND SPLIT . . . . . . . . . . 215
olta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Solin (Salona) . . . . . . . . . . .216
TROGIR & AROUND . . . . . . 216
Trogir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
Around Trogir . . . . . . . . . . 220
MAKARSKA RIVIERA . . . . . 221
Makarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Brela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
BRA ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Supetar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Bol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
HVAR ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Stari Grad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Jelsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
VIS ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Vis Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
Komia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Bievo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
DUBROVNIK &
SOUTHERN
DALMATIA . . . . . . . . .242
DUBROVNIK . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
AROUND DUBROVNIK . . . .260
Lokrum Island . . . . . . . . . . 260
Elafiti Islands . . . . . . . . . . 260
Mljet Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
Cavtat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Trsteno Gardens . . . . . . . . 264
KORULA ISLAND . . . . . . . 264
Korula Town . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Lumbarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Vela Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
PELJEAC
PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Orebi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272
Ston & Mali Ston . . . . . . . .273
333 3 333
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
w
w
w
#\
#]
#]
#\
#\
#\
#\
#\
#\
#]
#]
#^
#]
#]
#\
#^
#\
#]
#_
#^
#^
#\
#\
#\
#\
#\
#^
#]
#\
#]
#]
#\
#^
#_
#^
#^
#^
Krk
Cres
Rab
Pag
Vis
SLOVENIA
'
Perucko
Jezero
Kvarner
Gulf
U
n
a
S
a
v
a
D
r
ava
K
u
pa
Zabok
ITALY
Portogruaro
Knin
Ptuj
Labin
Civitanova
Marche
Glina
Novo
Mesto
Bosansko
Petrovac
Pazin
Portoro
Rovinj
Zadar
ibenik
Karlovac
Varadin
Sisak
Senigallia
Monfalcone
Petrinja
Pula
Bihac
Ascoli
Piceno
Pesaro
Macerata
Split
Ancona
Pescara
Teramo
Trieste
Rijeka
LJUBLJANA
ZAGREB
atorina
(1623m)
V Planik
(1272m)
Obru
Vievica
(1428m)
45N
44N
43N
1
6

E
1
5

E
1
4

E
1
3

E
Krk
Vaganski
(1623m)
44N
1
6

E
A D R I A T I C S E A
Istria
Food and wine-infused
dolce vita (p95)
Zagorje
Take in postcard-pretty
hilltop castles (p68)
Zagreb
Partake in happening
cafe culture (p38)
Split
Wander through buzzing
Diocletians Palace (p206)
Rt Kamenjak
Wild cape of otherworldly
beauty (p101)
Bievo
Visit the blue-lit
sea cave (p241)
Cres Island
Raw, mysterious and
wildlife-rich (p149)
Zadar
Hip, ancient and
down to earth (p169)
Paklenica National Park
Hike high
alpine peaks (p179)
Graac
Otoca
akovec

Croatia
R
#\
#^
#]
#]
#\
#\
#]
#\
#]
#]
#\
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#]
#\
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#\
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#^
#^
#]
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#_
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ar
Mljet
SERBIA
HUNGARY
MONTENEGRO
BOSNIA &
HERZEGOVINA
Sava
N
e
r
e
t
v
a
Neum
abac
Livno
Konjic
Slavonska
Pozega
Subotica
Metkovic
Nagykanizsa
Prijedor
Backa
Palanka akovo
Sinj
Gorade
Naice
Virovitica
Mostar
Cacak
Trebinje
Herceg Novi
Nikic
Mohacs
Jajce
Koprivnica
Kutina
Vukovar
Sremska
Mitrovica
Nova
Gradika
Vinkovci
Bjelovar
Travnik
Pcs
Novi
Sad
Dubrovnik
Slavonski
Brod
Banja
Luka
Osijek
BELGRADE
SARAJEVO
Kapavac
(790m)
1
8

E
1
7

E
0 100 km
0 50 miles
#
e
500m
700m
1000m
1500m
300m
200m
100m
0
ELEVATION
Korula
1
7

E
Dubrovnik
An exercise in history and
heart-stopping beauty (p244)
Mljet Island
Heavenly isle with
cobalt-coloured lakes (p261)
Hvar Town
Hoity-toity parties
on the beach (p230)
Bol
Hit the waves
off Bra (p227)
Plitvice Lakes
National Park
Lush, watery paradise (p177)
Kopaki Rit
Birdwatchers
paradise (p90)
Brko
#]
Szeged
Top Experiences
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but
inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has o ces in Melbourne, London,
Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 sta and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great
guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
7th edition April 2013
ISBN 978 1 74220 302 7
Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs as indicated 2013
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Anja Muti
Coordinating Author, Zagreb, Zagorje, Slavonia, Istria, Split & Central Dalmatia
Its been more than two decades since Anja left her native Croatia. The journey
took her to several countries before she made New York City her base 13 years
ago. But the roots are acalling. Shes been returning to Croatia frequently for
work and play, intent on discovering a new place on every visit, be it a nature
park, an offbeat town or a remote island. Shes happy that Croatias beauties
are appreciated worldwide, but secretly longs for the time when you could head to Hvar and
hear the sound of crickets instead of blasting music. Anja also wrote the Welcome to Croatia,
17 Top Experiences, Need to Know, Whats New, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Regions
at a Glance, Croatia Today, Culture & People and
The Cuisine chapters.
Vesna Maric
Kvarner, Northern Dalmatia, Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia Vesna was born in
Mostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina, but has always cherished the Adriatic coast
above all other places. Getting a chance to revisit her beloved Dubrovnik and
Zadar, and discover the Kvarner coast and islands, has made her fall in love
with Croatia all over again, despite the numerous sea urchins determined to
make their way into her heels. For this edition, she particularly loved wander-
ing the tiny streets of Rab Town, swimming off quiet coves on the islands of Loinj and Cres, and
tasting sushi in Dubrovnik, all with her two-year-old in tow. Vesna also wrote the Travel with Children,
History, The Natural Environment, The Arts, Directory A Z and Transport chapters.
Read more about Anja at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/anjamutic
Itineraries
Essential Croatia
Two Weeks
Take in the heavyweights of Croatia in this two-week journey from the
continent to the coast, including the capital city , a pair of national parks
and the gems of the Dalmatian coast.
Start in the capital, Zagreb (p 38 ), and
take a long weekend to delve into its sim-
mering nightlife, fine restaurants and choice
museums.
Head south to the World-Heritage-listed
Plitvice Lakes National Park (p 177 ) and
spend the day exploring its verdant maze of
turquoise lakes and cascading waterfalls.
Go down to Zadar (p 169 ), one of
Croatias most underrated cities. Its a real
find: historic, modern, active and packed
with attractions.
Take a day trip to Pag Island (p 184 ) and
try some of that famous cheese. If its the
height of summer, go partying on one of its
beaches.
Swim under the stupendous falls at Krka
National Park (p 193 ) or chill out at the gor-
geous Kornati Islands (p 194 ).
Stroll through the pretty streets of post-
card-perfect Trogir (p 216 ).
Meander around the Roman ruins of Solin
(p 216 ).
Prepare yourself for one of the regions
best sights: Diocletians Palace in Split
(p 197 ) is a living part of this exuberant
seafront city.
Next, take it easy down the winding
coastal road to Dubrovnik (p 242 ), a mag-
nificent city whose beauty is bound to blow
you away.
22
Clockwise from top left
1 Dalmatian architecture, Trogir (p216) 2 Church of St
Donat, Zadar (p169) 3 Skradinski Buk, Krka National
Park (p193)
Krka
National
Park
Kornati
Islands

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#

Solin
Plitvice Lakes
National Park
#
#
#
#
#
#

SLOVENIA
HUNGARY
ITALY
SERBIA
BOSNIA
&
HERCEGOVINA
MONTENEGRO
Pag
Island
Trogir
Zadar
Split
Dubrovnik
ZAGREB
ADRI ATI C
SEA
#
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Cream of the
Coast
Two Weeks
Discover the stunners of Croatias
coast in two weeks from Istrias
favourite getaways to the jewels
of Kvarner and all the way south
to Dalmatias greatest hits,
both on the mainland and the
islands.
Start your journey in the town of Pore
(p 113 ), admiring the World-Heritage-listed
Euphrasian Basilica.
Head south for the Venetian-inspired
architecture and cobblestone streets of
Rovinj (p 106 ).
Move on to Pula (p 98 ) to tour the evoca-
tive Roman ruins and amphitheatre, and
enjoy some beachside R&R.
Go north, making a pit stop in the old
Austrian resort of Opatija (p 139 ) for a stroll
along the seaside promenade and killer
views of the Kvarner coast.
From nearby Rijeka (p 133 ), Kvarners
capital, you can take a catamaran to pretty
Rab Town (p 161 ) on Rab Island. After wan-
dering the ancient town , relax on the aptly
named Paradise Beach at Lopar (p 166 ).
Next, visit historic Zadar (p 169 ) for its
wealth of museums, churches, cafes and
bars.
Travel south to Split (p 197 ), a buzzing
city and a great base to explore the beaches
of Brela (p 224 ) and the nearby islands.
On Bra, visit pretty Bol (p 227 ).
Hop over to chic Hvar Island (p 230 )
and the Pakleni Islands (p 232 ) for some
clothing-optional sunbathing.
For a few days of real rest, great food and
plenty of diving, Vis (p 237 ) is your island.
From Split, drive down to Dubrovnik
(p 242 ) to explore the citys gleaming
marble streets, vibrant street life and fine
architecture.
Dont miss a hop to the gorgeous island of
Mljet (p 261 ), where the verdancy, salt lakes
and tranquillity heal the soul.
24
Lopar
Bol
Vis Island
Opatija
Rab Town
Brela
Hvar Island
Rovinj
Pula
Zadar
Split
Rijeka
Dubrovnik
Mljet
Pore
#

#
Pakleni
Islands
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#

CROATIA
ITALY
BOSNIA
&
HERCEGOVINA
ADRI ATI C
SEA

R
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Clockwise from top left

1 Old Town, Split (p197) 2 Diving at Vis Island (p238)
3 Opatija (p139) 4 Euphrasian Basilica (p114), Pore
F
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City & Country:

Zagreb &
Around
One Week
Soak up the delights of the
pocket-size capital of Zagreb and
then head off for green pastures,
old towns and fairy-tale castles.
Start off in Croatias dynamic capital,
Zagreb (p 38 ), to enjoy its museums, art and
nightlife.
Head to charming little Samobor (p 66 )
for top-class cakes and countryside treks.
Go forth and explore where not many
tourists have gone before in Zagorje (p 68 ),
a bucolic landscape of forests, pastures and
farms. Start with Klanjec (p 80 ) and discover
the art of Antun Augustini in the town
museum.
Dont miss the birthplace of Croatias
most famous son Josip Broz Tito at
Kumrovec (p 80 ). Its not a communist site
but a fascinating examination of traditional
village life.
To get acquainted with your Neanderthal
ancestors, visit the swanky Museum of the
Krapina Neanderthal in Krapina (p 77 ).
If you have a thing for the mystery of
times past, youll revel in Trakoan Castle
(p 76 ) and its verdant grounds.
For more history, head to the beautifully
restored castle-fortress at Varadin (p 69 ).
Immerse yourself in the towns baroque
architecture for an afternoon.
On the way south, stop at the pilgrimage
site of Marija Bistrica (p 80 ) for heady views
of the surrounding region.
26
Marija
Bistrica
Kumrovec
Zagorje

#
#
#
#

Trakoan
Castle
#
#
#
#
#

SLOVENIA
CROATIA
Samobor
Klanjec
Krapina
Varadin
ZAGREB
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Clockwise from top left

1 Samobor (p66) 2 Zagorje (p68) 3 Dining in
Zagreb (p55) 4 Trakoan Castle (p76)
K
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East to West:
Slavonia &
Istria
10 Days
Explore the bucolic region of
Slavonia in Croatias east, then
head southwest to the Istrian
peninsula for hilltop medieval
towns, top food and rural hotels.
Start your trip in Slavonia, on the eastern
edge of Croatia. Explore the Hungarian-
influenced town of Osijek (p 84 ) on the
Drava River.
Move on to Kopaki Rit Nature Park
(p 90 ), with its profusion of birdlife and lush
waterways.
Next, spend a day in the ethno-village of
Karanac (p 91 ), enjoying local food special-
ities and traditions.
Head southwest towards Istria (p 95 ). The
Istrian peninsula carries the foodie crown for
its delicate truffles, air-dried ham, yummy
olives and excellent wines. Stop for a meal
and a wander around the worlds smallest
town, Hum (p 127 ).
Explore the truffle epicentre of Buzet
(p 125 ) and its scenic surroundings.
Head towards Pazin (p 123 ) to walk
through its famous chasm, which inspired
Jules Verne.
Drive on to the gorgeous hilltop settle-
ments of Motovun (p 128 ) and Gronjan
(p 130 ).
On the way south, stroll through
scenic Svetvinenat (p 122 ), which has a
Renaissance-era main square with a castle.
Unwind in captivating Bale (p 113 ).
28
Kopaki Rit
Nature

Park
Karanac
Istria
Hum
Gronjan
Bale
#
#
#
# #
#
#
#

Svetvinenat
#
#
#

SLOVENIA
CROATIA
HUNGARY
AUSTRIA
SERBIA
BOSNIA
&HERCEGOVINA
ADRI ATI C
SEA
Buzet
Pazin
Osijek

Motovun
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Clockwise from top left

1 Bale (p113) 2 Motovun (p128) 3 Croatian olive oil and
preserves
29
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