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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication for the Textile, Leather, Paper & Allied processing industries
29
th
Year of Publication
TLP Division
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Textile
Clariant - Pantone Partnership............................................6
Leather
New Innovations ...........................................................10
Paper
Pilot Coater.................................................................14
GOTS Approved List ....................................................18
New Arrivals.............................................................. 19
PRIMA Training ...........................................................22
Inside Views ...........................................................23
Awards ...........................................................25
Gleanings from Press ................................................... 26
Pantone Partnership....................6
New Innovations ......................10
Pilot Coater..................................14
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
What are the issues that will drive future
trade?
The future trade will be driven by
innovation, creative imitation , timely
delivery, after sales service are the key
factors which will drive future business
and hence supply chain management will
be the key for the growth to come in the
business.
Unlike earlier, today's market is buyer driven
and the final consumer is calling the shots....
In textiles especially consumer textiles,
always it was buyers who called the shot
because textile is one of the oldest
industry in India and competition has
always been there. Today, due to rising
exports it is not the consumers who are
calling the shots but the middleman may
be in the form of buying agents retail
stores, big shopping malls are calling the
shots. Here again the prices of real
consumers is very high. Instead of calling
consumer advantage it can be nominated
as customer advantage. There should
not be any doubt customers and
consumers are two different people and
hence it is the customers' shots the
industry is facing.
How do you assess threat from China?
We cannot ignore the fact that China is a
bigger player in almost all the segments
of textiles and they will continue to give
run for the money because China has
achieved economies of scale, their costs
are aligned to market forces and hence
high quality low cost products from India
can only compete with China. In the local
markets also Chinese goods are
occupying the shelf space of the retail
stores. Hence Indian industries must
immediately work towards consolidation
bringing in the economies of scale and
cost advantages to the customers.
In future the brands are going to play a major
role and they will be the decision maker, so
how do you see this branding issue?
We have seen in South East Asian
markets that the emergence of super
stores will give a major role of brands
especially international brands. An
Indian textile industry will have to
remodel their manufacturing facilities to
provide quick deliveries in a short lead
time and also must adjust itself to small
runs. Other than this, most of the Indian
garment industries will be working as
back end office for the brands in terms of
providing timely logistical support etc.
Brands have arrived to stay long and
hence no industry can ignore this fact.
But ultimate consumer may not get the
benefit of low cost as the brands have to
spend huge money in maintaining the
State of the Art shelves.
How do you see the role of dyes and chemical
companies in future to help textile industry?
The textile industry will need close co-
operation with the dyes and chemical
manufacturers in terms of providing both
dyes and chemicals for the production of
performance based garments and also
they will play a very major role in co-
branding with retailers. The time will
arrive when retailers will nominate dyes
and chemical suppliers for their products.
As India has the highest population of
youth, from a traditional release of three
fashion packages will be doubled to six
and the differential in the product is
possible only with the close co-operation
with dyes and chemical manufacturers.
Both textile industry and chemical
manufactuers will have to earn faster to
meet the demand of 18-25 age group
segment who are more demanding.
With respect to increasing demands of brands,
what strategies are you adopting to maintain
your leadership in textile business?
Increasing demands of brands are a
continuous phenomena in the textile
market. As we have been catering to this
segment for more than 50 years in the
export market , we understand the exact
requirements of both quality and timely
delivery. Our Logistic Department is
geared up to meet the stringent
requirements of delivery schedule. For
most of our existing customers all repeat
orders are met with 25 days delivery
schedule which itself is a bench mark.
However, we need to further work on
this and reduce this by 7-8 days. We
normally keep the yarn, fabric and
accessories ready for the repeat orders
so that we save precious time and with a
very short notice material can move to
the next stage of process which saves
plenty of time.
How do you envisage the growth of defence
sector in India and its impact on Textile
Chemicals business.
The defence spending will steeply
increase in days to come. Bilateral
Agreements with some of the
neighbouring countries may not work to
100% and hence tension will remain in
the border. Indian defence will expect
performance based clothing shelter and
accessories to sustain fatigue, cold, heat
etc. Already the Indian soldiers are under
terrible pressure as a result of which lot
of suicide cases have been reported. In
order to relieve such tensions Indian
Defence will have to compulsorily spend
higher money for clothing and shelter
which are performance based and which
reduces fatigue etc.
As a result of this, textile chemical
companies will have to start
manufacturing most of the performance
based chemicals in India which is today
imported and causing delays. According
to our estimates textile chemical business
in India who are catering to the defence
centre will grow manifold in days to come
and defence sector will expect more and
more innovative textile products to
provide comfort to soldiers.,
How do you envisage the growth of
automotive sector in India and its impact on
Textile Chemicals business.
India is almost touching 3.2 million vehicle
production . Most of the Northern part
of India has extreme climate due to which
performance based textile products are
required in automobile sector. Heat and
sound dampening textile products are the
features of latest automobiles arrived in
India. Passenger seats are no more is
made with traditional rexines and it is
becoming more breathable associated
with performance and aesthetics. For
the car interiors, textile products will have
to meet the stringent standards for
breathing, fire redundancy shape
recovery etc. All these things are possible
only with the help of textile chemical and
hence with the manufacture of automobile
industry textile chemical industry will also
grow in leaps and bounds.
Your message to the industry?
We expect that Indian textile industry will
keep abreast of equipments processing
chemical and other ingredients so that
industry can match the demand of the
customers in all the segments whether it
is consumer products or industrial textile
products. All the textile companies will
have to work closely with various stake
holders including textile chemical
suppliers to stay in competition and
ultimately excel.
Excerpts from an
interview with
Mr. H.S. Bhaskar,
CEO, Gokak Mills
Ltd.
Views on Current Scenario in Textiles
VIEWS
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
C
lariant, one of the world's larg-
est and environmentally-friendly
textile colorant producers, and
Pantone Inc., creator of the only globally
recognized color reference system,
worked side-by-side to produce SMART,
a color management and specification
system for designers, retailers and
producers. SMART is an off-the-shelf
color system, complementary to Clariant's
existing customized color management
service. Together, we have formulated
recipes for 1,925 colors, which have been
selected after intensive evaluation of
10,000+ colors from the fashion and home
markets.
Developing a virtually unlimited range of
color tones and making them suitable for
use with an infinite variety of materials
are two of the challenges that Clariant
faces daily.
Clariants reputation as a leading player
in research and applications technology
is as strong as in production and quality
control. Clariant stands for innovative
synthesis colors and surface effects
geared to the needs of sectors such as
Textiles, Leather and Paper Chemicals,
Pigments and Additives, Functional
Chemicals, Life Science Chemicals , and
Masterbatches. Whats more we are close
enough to provide a solution to your
problem on the spot. Wherever in the
world you are.
A Smart Partnership - Pantone and Clariant
Two Global Leaders in Color.
SMART streamlines the color
development process and ensures a color
product that can be exactly produced and
delivered anywhere in the world.
The SMART color solution
S SENSIBLE Consistent, reproducible
color. Only Clariant provides you with the
dyestuffs, the formulation and technical
know-how to get the exact Pantone
Colors you want colors that are based on
the balanced use of visual and digital
color evaluation.
M MANAGEABLE optimized color
constancy. Use SMART to ensure a color
is the same in varying light conditions.
A ACCESSIBLE Pantone SMART color
swatch cards, a globally recognized and
accepted system, use ecologically
approved dyes and are readily available
in 75 countries Worldwide.
R RELEVANT Colors are selected from
the fashion and home marketplace so you
can find the color for which you are
looking for. Plus, every few years, colors
are added that reflect market trends and
new core shades.
T TOUGH Colors are durable because
they're formulated to maximize colorfast-
ness, light fastness and durability to
washing, dry cleaning and wear.
Clariant-Pantone Partnership: A perfect fit
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Your benefits
G You get a perfect product: thanks to
Clariant' s competence you get
Pantone Colors you want, faster and
easier than ever before. The SMART
system speeds color development by
at least 50 %. Because it's simpler, it's
faster and reduces your costs.
G You always get a perfect result
because; using state-of the-art
technology, Clariant and Pantone
developed each of the updated 1,925
system shades together, testing them
on a variety of textile fabrics.
G Wherever you are in the world, you
can be confident that what you want
and what you get are identical.
G Identical because Clariant's global
network of colorant and application
technology specialists are available
with supplies, technical advice and
help around the clock and around the
globe.
The Pantone Fashion and Home Color
Selector Some Key Points
G The System is formulated with
Clariants New Drimaren HF/CL fiber
reactive dyestuffs from Clariant.
G These colorants offer high fastness
levels on cellulosic materials.
G Low impact on the environment due
to high fixation levels.
G Excellent reproducibility in exhaust
and continuous applications.
G New High Light fastness Red for
G Get Clariant technical service involved
early to ensure a good match
G Specify light sources, measurement
conditions, and color tolerances when
communicating to the mill.
G Specifying dyestuff combinations can
help to minimize metamerism problems.
G Focus on execution and accuracy
not just the dyestuff and chemical cost
quoted from the mill.
G Tools Available from Clariant
G www.matchpantonecolors.com
G Matchwizard color matching
software freeware
G Expert systems like CostCalc to aide
in color and process development
G Global technical service
G Global product range Drimaren for
cotton, Foron for polyester, and
Nylosan and Optilan for nylon
G Assistance on Restricted Substance
Lists.
Calculating The Real Cost of a Color Match
G Often too much time is spent focusing
just on the dye or chemical cost.
G The actual cost to produce an article
is tied up in the procedure, process,
and time wasted on multiple
submissions before getting approval
pastel shades DRIMAREN RED HF-
6BL
G Clariant Global Contacts are available
at the click of a mouse.
G It is not just the formulation that
counts. Working with Clariant global
affiliates can help mills reduce total
cost through quicker shade matches
and process efficiencies.
G Find the country you need at
www.matchPantonecolors.com, click
on the country and select the contact.
The contact information is there. Send
an email or place a call they will
respond to your request within one
business day.
G Color development time-lines can be
reduced when you specify the proper
colorants to get the shade right the
first round.
How Do I make sure my color matches the
Pantone Color Selected ?
G Purchase the Pantone SMART swatch
card
G Get the required dyestuff recipes from
www.matchpantonecolors.com to be
available in the next few weeks. The
formulations portion of the site is
being finalized.
TEXTILE
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
to proceed to production.
G Lab dyeings cost about $ 75.00 . That
cost is often higher than the total dye
used in a large production batch on a
light to medium color.
G If you save just one dyeing in the lab,
you can see that the savings can be
measurable and significant.
G If you consider the time savings, using
the proper dye recipe and dyeing
process certainly makes sense.
Cost Calc
Process Optimization with CostCalc
CostCalc is the new tool for textile mills
to calculate the product and process
costs of any desired exhaust process.
This web-based process optimization
software enables you to save resources,
money and time based on the following
parameters
G infrastructure of a firm (machine park,
water temperature, etc.)
G cost structure of a firm (prices for water,
energy, labour cost, etc.)
G exhaust process flow (dyeing,
washing off, etc.)
G exhaust process parameters (liquor
ratio, heating rate, dyeing temperature,
etc.)
G products used (concentration and
price)
Cost Calc will calculate the detailed cost
structure and resource consumption:
G water and energy consumption
G machine occupation time
G operator requirement
G applicable amounts of products and
the resulting costs.
CostCalc enables you to achieve:
G transparency with regard to the
individual cost factors
G comparison between product and
processing cost
G cost comparison between different
process flows
G cost comparison between different
product groups.
Environmentally Friendly Solutions
G Lasting success means taking care of
the environment
G Clariant is committed to generating
sustainable added value.
G This, however, is only possible if
ecological, social, as well as
G economic objectives are met. Our
highest priorities are
G personal safety and environmentally
sound processes and
G products. For this reason, we make
sure that most of our
G products are recognized under the
Oeko-Tex Standard 100.
G For major brands and retailers we are
also working according
G to Restricted Substance Lists (RSL).
A lot of our textile dyes
G and chemicals meet the Standard C99
of Marks and Spencer
G A lot of our products also meet the
requirements of the Global
G Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and
are therefore qualified for the
production of organic cotton.
G To Review - Steps to a SMART match!
G Order the Pantone Smart swatch
card.
G Go to www.matchpantone.com and
request the proper Clariant
formulation.
G If you have a unique fiber blend or
require technical assistance, contact
the local Clariant affiliate.
G For the best results get assistance
early. Dont wait until you have
multiple rejections.
G Speed you development. The old way
is no longer efficient in time or cost.
G Using the SMART system will help
improve your results.
All recipes can be seen by our customers
after they have purchased the Pantone
Smart Swatches and are registered at the
website www.MatchPantoneColors.com.
The reflectance data will be provided by
Pantone to those buying the new Smart
Swatch for an additional fee.
TEXTILE
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May 2008
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Upgrading
Keeping Leather's Elegance. Upgrading
is widely used term in today's leather
manufacturing.
Introduction
Generally, upgrading describes the
process of covering or masking all sorts
of leather surface damages. In most cases
upgrading takes place in first base coats
during finishing process. Therefore,
upgrading includes application of
sophisticated pregrounds & base coats.
The Importance of Upgrading ?
About 20 years ago, the raw hide quality
& supply to the leather industry was a
smaller problem than today. Sufficient
high quality hides were available at
affordable rates, to satisfy the
requirements for making different type of
articles.
However, today, with the rise in demand
for high class leather and decrease in the
raw hide quality the desire of the leather
industry for Upgrading Technologies
has become very important. Also the high
quality skins and hides command a
premium, forcing tanners to work with
lower selections, due to intense price
pressures, lower price realization and
diminishing margins.
Use of Upgrading Technologies Pays off in
following Ways
G Upgrading of lower selection raw
hides to higher grade selection
resulting in higher sales appeal for the
leather articles. Also, use of lower
selection results in lower costs and
improved margins.
G Lower rejections due to poor selection
and defects, resulting in lower costs
and improved margins.
G Improved yield of finished hides and
skins, which meet the quality
standards.
G Higher cutting yield resulting in more
square meter of high quality articles
from lower crust.
G Greater efficiency in processing
operation.
Clariant offers the following key systems
for Upgrading :
G Melio Aquabase System
G Soft Upgrading prebottoms and
millgrounds
G Cationic Preground Compact
G Pull-up Oils and Waxes
Upgrading Technologies
Melio Aquabase Technique
The objective of the Melio Aquabase
technique is to upgrade crusts exhibiting
a wide range of defects and damages
ranging from scratches, pinholes, tick
marks etc. Melio Aquabase products can
be used alone or in combination.
Depending on the final article, the Melio
Aquabase used, can be buffed, used as
standard prebase or as a polishable base
coat. Melio Aquabase products can be
combined in certain cases with standard
Clariant finishing products (e.g. Resin
Binders, PU binders) to exploit special
synergy benefits.
Melio Aquabase Technique - Articles
G Automotive Upholstery
G Furniture Upholstery
G Shoe upper leather
G Split leathers
G Leather goods
G Garment
Melio Aquabase Application Techniques
G Hand Spatula
G Ruller Coater
G Spray
Melio Aquabase Technique - Key Products
and their features
Melio 06-N-01 :
Hand spatula application universal use
including automotive.
G Superior application behaviour, also
in difficult climatic condition
G Excellent spread ability with sufficient
application time
G Highest filling properties
G No break after mill ing
G Good buffability
Melio 06-U-55 and Melio 06-U-56 : The
Perfect Combination to Fill Defects on
Most Different Kind of Articles
G Superior upgrading power for medium
to strong damages
G Excellent filling and covering power
G For full grain and corrected grain
leather
G Excellent stability within the roller
Melio Aquabase FPR-01 / FPS-01 :
Polishable preground for reverse roller
coater and spray for fine leather
G Elegant masking of grain defects
G No thick film layers
G Regulation of crust absorption and
therefore less subsequent coats
needed
G No buffing required
G Final leather articles. With high sales
appeal and price possible.
Soft Upgrading Prebottoms and
Millgroundss
Advance prebottom systems from
Clariant play an important role in modern
upgrading technology. Whenever the
leathers are buffered, the main purpose
is to restore the buffed grain, keeping the
softness of the crust leather and
maintaining an elegant break. Use of
Clariant's prebottom systems results in
elegant grain restoration, excellent sealed
and a soft surface in terms of physical
properties.
New Innovations of Leather Chemicals
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Key products
G Melio Ground CL
G Melio Ground BG
G Melio Ground K
G Melio Ground P
G Melio Ground P/S
G Melio Ground NU
G Melio Ground WA
Key Features
G Very high filling effect
G Results in a soft, smooth handle of
the leather
G Levels out & seals the leather surface
G Keeps a fine grain break
G Helps produce regular & uniform
absorption of the crust.
Melio Ground UP-Cationic Pre base
Compact
Melip Ground UP- is slightly cationic
ready to use preground compound,
specially developed to improve the
selection of several articles such as shoe,
garment and upholstery leathers
Key Features
G Easy to use - real compact
G Superior sealing and levelling
properties
G Excellent print retention without cut
through
G Outstaing milling behaviour
Pull - up Oils and Waxes.
With continuous research and a constant
product development Clariant's Product
Line Finishing presents and innovative
new range of finishing oils and waxes,
which are covering a wide range of
leather articles including American-style
pull-up lathers & water - resistant
leathers.
Key Categories / Key Products
Standard Pull - up Oils
G Melio Oil PO 200 series : Melio Oil PO-
200, Melio Oil-202, Melio Oil-203 and
Melio Oil-220 conc
Standard Pull-up waxes
G Melio Wax PO-405
G Melio 06-01-US
Feel Modifying and Nubuck Oils
G Melio Oil PO-230, Melio Oil PO-232
Oil/Wax for water resistant pull-up
finish on normal crust. Bavon Oil and
Wax series : Bavon Oil KCO, Bavon Wax
550
G Oil/Wax for water resistant pull-up
leather finish on water-resistant crust
G Bavon Oil WR-600, Bavon Oil WR-601
Bavon Wax WR-651 and Bavon Wax
WR-653
Penetrators for Oils and Waxes
G Melio E-700, Melio E-710
Aqueous Oils and Waxes
G Melio PW series
G Melio Oil PW-100, Melio Oil PW-110,
G Melio Oil PW-120
G Melio Wax PW-301.
Water Based Pull-up Wax on Pigmented
G Base coat (For Aladin effect)
G Melio Wax AL-02
G Melio Wax AL-03
Key Features
G Solvent free oils and waxes
G Highly concentrated
G Mild to strong pull-up effect
G Light to dark surface
G Different feels
G Soft to hard
G For normal or water - resistant articles.
Clariant systems can be used for
upgrading of all kinds of leather - Shoe,
upholstery, Garment, leather goods &
automotive.
Clariant offers a comprehensive array of
products for upgrading leathers for every
imaginable articles, applications and
processes. Clariant has honed its
products and systems to offer you a total
system for upgrading leathers, while
keeping leather's elegance.
Clariant, known for its wide range of
dyestuffs and synthetic tanning agents
for leather, has come up with the entire
range of beamhouse chemicals for leather
processing right from the soaking of raw
hides till the tanning of watbule. EI
leathers and organic tanned leather. With
the strength of the already established
surfactants and degreasing agents,
Clariant has the best range for
Beamhouse processing.
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May 2008
The range overview
Soaking
Tergolox W - 01 - IN liq
Feliderm MS-IN p
Feliderm SWP p
Feliderm SWP p
Feliderm SE 2 p
Liming
Feliderm LP-IN liq
Feliderm LM TR liq
Tergolix MW A-IN liq
Deliming
Dekalon CL p
Feliderm DFA p
Bating
Feliderm Bate PB1-IN p
Felidrerm Bate AB-IN p
Degreasing
Degreaol E-IN liq
Degreaol WB-IN liq
Verna Degrees S-IN liq
Tergolix EFD-IN liq
Sandopan DTC-IN lliq
Tanning
Feliderm CS liq
Feliderm DP-IN p
Tergolix A-In liq
Imprapell CO-BR liq
Granofin A liq hc
Claritan MT-IN p
Granofin TA p
Specialities from Clariant
Tergolix W 01-IN liq
Specially soaking for all leather substrates
with no/less foaming. Completely free
from NPEO and APEO
Feliderm MS-IN p
Unique soaking agent for quick soak back
of leather, also has hydrotropic nature,
helps in soaking of any difficult
substrate. Highly recommended for air
dried or dry salted hide substrates.
Feliderm LI-IN liq
Speciality liming auxiliary for wrinkle free
leather surface, closed grain and well
opened skin structure.
Dekalon Cl p
Low ammonia deliming agent gives
uniform deliming effect through out the
surface, when used in combination of
ammonium sulphate results in a tighter
grain structure and fuller leather.
Tergolix ND 01-IN liq
High concentrated new generation
degreasing agent suitable for wide range
of application, in liming, soaking and
degreasing stages. Maximum benefits
seen in high fatty New Zealand sheep
skins and US dairy cow hides.
Feliderm MO-IN p
Safe basifying agent, free dolomite for
uniform chrome uptake and pleasant wet
blue color.
Feliderm DP-IN p
Salt of aromatic organic acid, improves
chrome exhaustion noticeably and results
in much fuller leather than conventional
chrome tanning.
Imprapell CO BR liq
Speciality bleaching agent for wet white
leather and white chrome leather.
Removes all scud and pigmentation and
bleaches any organic/in organic stains
from the leather surface. Usage requires
careful attention.
As evident from the above range tanner
can make any type of leather with the
desired quality using Clariant offer for the
beamhouse range
Water resistant leather requires more care
in terms of no surfactants or chemicals
with any emulsifiers can be used in the
beamhouse operation. This emulsifier will
adversely affect the hydrophilic nature
of the final leather.
Clariant has come up with a fool proof
system of beamhouse processing with
chemicals which has no or very little effect
on the final leather in terms of water
resistant.
Clariant Process Guidelines
Pre soaking with 0.2 % of Tergolix W 01-
IN liq
Main Soaking with 0.5 % Tergolix W 01-
IN liq and 0.3 % Feliderm MS-IN p. For
fatty substrates, Feliderm SWP p is
suitable instead of Feliderm MS-IN p. A
small amount of sodium sulphide or soda
ash will help to attain the required pH for
the soaking.
Controls - 2.3 Be at the beginning of the
soaking. Minimum pH lever should be 8.5
- 9.0 at the end of the soaking
Liming to be carried out with Felideerm
LP-IN liq or Feliderm LM TR liq
depending upon the substrate and final
article. Feliderm LI-IN makes the leather
flat and closed grain structure. Feliderm
LM TR makes the leather wrinkle free and
soft handle after liming.
Controls - No surfactant to be added. For
fatty substrate. 0.2 % of Tergolix ND 01-
IN liq is suggested.
Deliming with Dekalon CL and
ammonium sulphate. Feliderm DFA is
recommended for Ammonia free deliming.
Clariant offers both Alkaline and Acid
bate whose suitability is well established
for various substrates.
Chrome tanning with 6-8 % BCS
and basified with safe basifying
agent Feliderm MO is standard
procedure. Feliderm MO-IN p will help
uniform chrome exhaustion throughout
the leather surface and results in
pleasing color. Feliderm DP-IN liq, a
tanning auxiliary, helps to reduce the
chrome offer by 1-2 % and increased
chrome fixation in the leather. Feliderm
DP also makes subsequent leather
dyeing more brilliant. Feliderm CS liq,
specially from clariant, helps for better
chrome exhaustion structure. Feliderm
CS to be used in the pickle tanning bath
before addition of chrome.
Leather processed with the above
formulation, after subsequent treatment
with hydrophobic fatliquors shows
excellent results for static as well as
dynamic water penetration tests.
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May 2008
Introduction
The Functional Coating Groups pilot
coater is a flexible tool for testing new
technologies. It is operated for both
internal use and customer trials.
The pilot coating line can operate upto
30m/min and is equipped with:
G air knife coating head
G infrared drying
G on-line web temperature sensors
G coating kitchen
Pilot Coater
Schematic representation of the pilot coater
Air Knife coating head (basic principle)
The air knife coating profile tends to
follow the contours of the base paper,
whilst rod/bar coatings scrape-off the
excess coating, thereby filling the valleys.
For this reason, air knife applications
have been shown to be very effective for
barrier coatings.
The versatility of the pilot coater is to be
expanded with the planned installation
of an additional rod/bar coating head.
This will result in other coating concepts
being explored including, OBA and
speciality coatings.
PAPER
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Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Clariant oil absorbency test
An important aspect of any barrier
coating, including Cartapack, is the
assessment of the level of barrier effect.
Within the paper industry, the test most
commonly used for assessment of grease
barrier effect is the 3M Kit test (Tappi
T559). Although this test gives an initial
indication of the level of oil/grease
resistance of a treated paper, it does have
limitations when used for barrier products
of this type.
Within Clariant a new test now used,
which is more relevant to the end-use of
these products. A food-grade oil
(commonly corn oil) is contracted with
the surface of the coated paper or board,
and the degree of absorbency of the oil
into the paper is assessed gravimetrically.
Not only does this give a good
assessment of the amount of oil absorbed,
but the degree of oil staining of the sample
can be compared against other samples.
As the test area is larger than that
evaluated in the Kit test, a more
representative result may be obtained
also.
The test is performed as follows : corn oil
is dyed with an oil-soluble dye (e.g. fat
Blue B01/Sudan Blue II, 0.1 % w/w) and
an amount (around 8-9 ml) is poured onto
the surface of a coated sheet. A thin
blotter (typically 70g/m
2
) is placed on top
so that the oil spreads over the full area
of the blotter, giving a known area of
sample with which the oil is in contract
typically 144 cm2, 12cm 12cm).
After 10 minutes contact time, the blotter
is removed and the surface blotted dry,
then wiped clean with absorbent tissue.
The oil uptake of the sample is measured
gravimetrically, and converted to an oil
absorbency value in g/m2. The areas in
which oil has absorbed are stained blue
and it is easy to compare samples to
assess efficiency and appearance of a
surface treatement.
For lightweight sheets (e.g. <60g/m2) it
may be desirable to add a backing blotter
also. This can be used to indicate any
peentration of the oil through to the
reverse of the test sheet. In heavier
sheets, the oil tends to spread within the
sheet, where for lightweight sheets it can
oftern penetrate right through and soak
the reverse of the sheet, making the oil
absorbency result less meaningful.
Cartapack-treated paper assessed by the
above method show a level of oil
absorbency which is similar to, or lower
than, samples treated with other barrieer
treatments. Studies have shown that the
treatment can be cost-efficient, and a real
alternative to other barrier technologies
used for this type of end-use. More than
anything, it will provides a level of choice
for the customer.
PAPER
15
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Heatseal, blocking and heat resistance
Introduction
When papers are made using Functional Coatings they often
encounter heat and / or pressure, either during conversion or
use or both. The paper properties that are measured in relation
to this are Heat Seal, Blocking and Resistance. The HS2
Laboratory Heat Sealer can be used to quantitatively evaluate
these properties.
Equipment and Reagents
HS2 Laboratory Heat Sealer supplied by RDM Test Equipment
G Scissors
G 50 m Aluminium Foil
HS2 laboratory Heat Sealer Settings :
Variable Minimum Maximum Increment
Pressure (bar) 0.1 6.2 0.02
Temperature (C) Ambient 250 0.1
Dwell time (s) 0.1 999.9 0.1
Method
Samples of the test paper should be cut measuring at least 30
mm cross direction by 55 mm machine direction. A new sample
must be used for each test, even when the sample does not seal
or block. The test specimen is pushed between the jaws and
the Press To Seal button pressed immediately. When the jaws
are released, the specimen is removed immediately, and allowed
to cool to ambient temperature before assessment.
Heat Seal
Coated Face (A) To Coated Face (A)
Standard test is carried out with a 1s dwell time and 2 bar
pressure. Both jaws are heated, with the temperature variable.
The specimens are peeled apart, and the estimated area sealed
is reported as a % of the maximum seal area (determined by the
jaw size). The temperature at which 100 % seal is achieved is
the Heat Seal Temperature.
For non-standard tests the pressure and time may be varied,
the setting used must be quoted with the results.
Coated Face (A) to Uncoated Face (B)
Standard test is carried out with a 1s dwell time and 2 bar
pressure. Both jaws are heated, with the temperature variable.
A foil is used to prevent the lower coated face sticking to the
heated jaw.
The specimens are peeled apart, and the estimated area sealed
is reported as a @ of the maximum seal area (determined by the
jaw size). The temperature at which 100 % seal is achieved is
the Heat Seal Temperature.
For non-standard tests the pressure and time may be varied,
the settings used must be quoted with the results.
Blocking
Coated face (A) to uncoated face (B). Standard test is carried
out with a 10s dwell time and 1 bar pressue. Both jaws are
heated, with the temperature variable.
Any adhesion of the two specimens is recorded as fail. The
Blocking Temperature is the highest temperature at which there
is no adhesion.
For non-standard tests the pressure and time may be varied,
the settings used must be quoted with the results.
Heat Resistance
Coated face (A) to aluminum Foil (shiny side). Standard test is
carried out with a 1s dwell time and 2 bar pressure. The upper
jaw is heated, with the temperature variable. A foil is used to
prevent the coated face sticking to the heated jaw. The unheated
(lower) jaw should be set to 0.0 C, allowing the actual temperature
to be monitored. During prolonged testing, the lower jaw will
heat up as a result o contact with the upper jaw. The lower jaw
temperature should not exceed 40 C. If this occurs testing must
be stopped, to allow the lower jaw to cool.
Kit test
Introduction
The Kit test involves applying test solutions numbered from 1
to 16, to the sample under evaluation. The test is carried out
under the guidelines or Tappi test method for grease resistance
for paper and paperboard T 559.
Equipment
Absorbent Tissue
Analytical Balance
Graduated measuring cylinders 100ml and 500 ml
Stock Bottles glass with polyethylene caps prevent evaporation
Test Bottles, glass with glass stoppers and glass droppers
Electronic timer
Light Box / Dark board
Reagents
Castor oil
Toluene
Heptane
Composition
When making up the kit solutions weight measurements are
used for castor oil as its high viscosity makes volume
measurements less accurate.
Kit no Castrol Oil Toluene
n-heptane
(g) ml ml ml
1 (96.90) 100 0 0
2 (87.21) 90 5 5
3 (77.52) 80 10 10
4 (67.83) 70 15 15
5 (58.14) 60 20 20
6 (48.45) 50 25 25
PAPER
16
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
7 (38.76) 40 30 30
8 (29.07) 30 35 35
9 (19.38) 20 40 40
10 (9.69) 10 45 45
11 0 50 50
12 0 45 55
13 0 35 65
14 0 25 75
15 0 15 85
16 0 0 100
Method
Due to the harmful nature of the reagents involved, nitrile gloves
should be worn at all times.
The kit tests should be carried in a well illuminated fume
cupboard. The test can be performed in two ways, either using
a light box to show penetration as bright light spots, or using a
dark board to show penetration as darker spots. For lightweight
papers the dark board often allows easier visual assessment of
test liquid penetration.
Place each test specimen on the chosen surface, which must be
clean and dry, test facing upwards. Chose an intermediate Kit
test solution and carefully, without touching the sample with
the dropping pipette, apply a streak approximately 2 cm long to
the sample and start the timer. After 15s quickly remove the
excess the solution with a clean tissue, applying the minimum
pressure to the paper surface, and immediately examine the test
area. A failure is denoted either by a darkening of the test
specimen, if using a dark background, or bright light spot, if
using a light box. The change in coloration results from wetting
of the specimen, due to penetration of the test solution into the
paper sheet. If the area under test is not examined immediately
then evaporation of the volatile components of the test solution
will occur and the sample may regain its original appearance
and be scored as a pass.
If the specimen fails this first test then select an untested area
of the same sheet and repeat using a lower numbered solution.
Repeat until the highest numbered Kit solution that rests on
the surface for 15 seconds without causing failure is identified.
If the specimen passes this first test, repeat the test on an
untested area of the sample using a higher numbered Kit
solution. Repeat until the highest numbered Kit solution that
rests on the surface for 15 seconds without causing failure is
identified. The number of this Kit solution is the Kit Rating for
the specimen. The test should be carried out at least in duplicate.
IPA Test
Introduction
The IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) test method involves applying test
solutions of varying IPA content, to the sample under
evaluation. This test is often used for fluorochemically treated
non-woven materials for medical applications (e.g. drape).
Equipment
Absorbent Tissue
Analytical balance
Stock Bottles glass with polyethylene caps to prevent
evaporation
Test Bottles, glass with glass stoppers and glass droppers
Electronic timer
Light Box / Dark board
Reagents
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
Water
Composion
Compositions of the IPA test solutions are as follows
IPA test No. IPA Water
(g) (g)
1 10 90
2 20 80
3 30 70
4 40 60
5 50 50
6 60 40
7 70 30
8 80 20
9 90 10
10 100 0
Method
The IPA tests should carried out in a well illuminated fume
cupboard.
Place each test specimen on a clean dry surface test side facing
upwards, alternatively it can be supported on a stand above a
minor reflecting the reverse. Chose an intermediate IPA test
solution and carefully, without touching the sample with the
dropping pipette, apply 5 individual drops to the sample surface
and start the timer. After 5 mins either examine the under side of
the test specimen using the mirror, or remove the excess test
solution with a clean tissue without applying pressure and
immediately turn over and examine the reverse side. A failure is
denoted by penetration of the test liquid through to the reverse
side of the specimen, often visible by a dark spot or swelling of
the substrate fibres. The change in coloration results from
wetting of the specimen, due to penetration of the test solution
into the paper sheet. If the tested area is not examined
immediately then evaporation of the volatile components of
the test solution will occur and the sample may regain its original
apearance and be scored as a pass.
If the sample fails before the end of the 5 minute test period,
note the time at which failure occurred and this can be included
in the results.
If the specimen fails this first test then, select an untested area
of the same sheet and repeat using a lower numbered solution.
Repeat until the highest numbered solution that rests on the
surface without causing failure, is identified. If the specimen
passes this first test, repeat the test on an untested area of the
sample using a higher numbered solution. The highest number
IPA solution which passes, is the rating for the specimen. The
test should be done at least in duplicate.
PAPER
17
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Name dye / Proc. aid Date of Approved
approval Yes / No
Ceranine SWPI liq 25/06/2007 Yes
Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq 25/06/2007 Yes
Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p 13/08/2007 Yes
Sirrix 2UD.IN liq 13/08/2007 Yes
Drimaren Navy X-GN.IN 06/09/2007 Yes
Drimaren Red X-6BN p 06/09/2007 Yes
Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p 06/09/2007 Yes
Leonil UH liq 06/09/2007 Yes
Sirrix Antox IN liq 06/09/2007 Yes
Imacol C2G.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Sirrix N liq c 12/10/2007 Yes
Ceraperm K.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Stabilizer AWN.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c 12/10/2007 Yes
Sirrix SB.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Appretan ECO liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Imerol XN.IN liq 04/08/2007 Yes
Pintofix Thickener CA liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Revatol S.IN p 13/11/2007 Yes
Sirrix N liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS 14/12/2007 Yes
Printofix Binder ITL liq 14/12/2007 Yes
Hostapal DTC. IN liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandopan DTC. IN liq)
Imerol NLF. IN liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandoclean NLF. IN liq)
Leomin PNLI liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandosoft PNLI liq)
Ceralube JNF. IN liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandolube JNF. IN liq)
Ceralube HD. IN liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandolube HD. IN liq)
Imerol MWP liq C Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandoclean MWP liq c)
Name dye / Proc. aid Date of Approved
approval Yes / No
Ladipur SN liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandopur SN liq)
Optisul HSI liq Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes
(Sandozol HSI liq)
Drimaren Blue HF - 2B cdg 12/02/2008 Yes
Stabilizer SIFA. IN liq 11/02/2008 Yes
Ladipur R3C. In ip liq 12/02/2008 Yes
Drimaren Navy CL-R p 12/02/2008 Yes
Imerol SR liq 11/02/2008 Yes
Stabilizer SOF. IN liq 11/02/2008 Yes
Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq Formerly11/02/2008 Yes
(Diresul Black RDT liq)
Arkifil PVS p 13/03/2008 Yes
Arkofil S100 p 13/03/2008 Yes
Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Ceraperm AQUA liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Red CL BL 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Red CL - B p 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Yeloow CL-R p 13/03/2008 Yes
Ladiquest DWA liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Leomin SFC liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Navy R-B 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Violet R-B 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Black R-NG liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Printofix Blue R-BN 11/06/2008 Yes
Ceraperm TSLF liq 11/06/2008 Yes
Ceraperm 3P liq hc 11/06/2008 Yes
Reductor D. IN p 11/06/2008 Yes
Stabiliser 3Z liq 11/06/2008 Yes
Sirrix SAI liq c 11/06/2008 Yes
Hostalux ETB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BMF. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BMB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BFB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
GOTS APPROVED LIST
GOTS- Approved List - Textile Business
Result of assessment of dye/processing aid for the use in EKO Sustainable
Textile Standard (GOTS system)
GOTS LIST
18
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Sizing
Arkofil CS 20 ID liquid
A special sizing agent at Sectional Warping machine.
Properties
Provides very soft handle.
Improves weaving performance at lower pick up
Improves weaving performance at lower pick up
Economical & Cost effective
Application by Kiss- Roll method.
Better warp shed opening on loom.
Cost saving due to elimination of one process Sizing.
Pre-treatment
Hostapal NAN Liquid
A Highly efficient, Wetting and Deaerating Agent, GOTS
certified.
Properties
Hostapal NAN Liquid combines all the advantages of
efficiency and economy of a wetting and deaerating agent
in various pre-treatment processes.
No disturbing odour development even at higher
temperatures (pad steam treatment).
GOTS approved product.
Economical & Cost effective.
Stabiliser 3 Z liquid
Polymeric stabilizer for the peroxide bleaching of cotton and
its blends specially for continuous operations.
Stabiliser 3 Z liq is distinguished by its very good efficiency
at low application amounts and sequestering power.
No Phosphorous, no Silicate and no Magnesium - NO
SCALING.
High Degree of whiteness can be achieved.
Is stable upto 70 gpl caustic soda.
Universally applicable for continuous and discontinuous
process as well as the cold pad batch process.
Optical Brightening Agents
Leucophor BSB liq
Fluorescent brightener for Cellulosics, Wool, Silk and Polyamide
fibres.
Properties
Produces very brilliant, bluish brightening effects with a
high maximum whiteness.
Is specially suitable for exhaust application
- with the addition of salt
- in the peroxide bleach
- in reduction bleaches
Is distinguished by good light and wet fastness.
Leucophor BLR liq
Acid Resistant Fluorescent Brightener for Cellulosics Fibres
and its Blends
Properties
Leucophor BLR liq is acid resistant fluorescent brightener.
The pH stability is in between 1 12.
Leucophor BLR liq produces brilliant reddish white effects
with a very high maximum whiteness; the whitening effects
exhibit good light and wet fastness.
Have good light fastness and also wet fastness.
Leucophor BSB - B liq
Fluorescent brightener for Cellulosics fibres
Properties
Leucophor BSB-B Liquid is highly effective optical
brightener with new shading component.
Gives very good reproducible results.
Have good light fastness and also wet fastness.
Colour Effects: Dyeing Chemicals
Eganal PS Liquid
Penetrating and Deaerating Agent for polyester processing
Properties
APEO NPEO free product.
Especially re-commended for Polyester yarn dyeing
Produces bright dyeing.
Suitable for continuous dyeing of polyester in padding bath
due to excellent dispersing property.
Colour Effects: Printing Chemicals
Printofix Thickener CSN
Hard water Stable Thickener
Properties
Speciality for Blotch Printing To get uniform colour
through out blotch.
Excellent Stability to Hard Water
Printofix Softener H-p
Softener for Pigment Printing
Properties
Gives Soft and smooth handle
Improves fastness to dry rubbing
Printofix fixing agent WB liq.
Very low formaldehyde cross linking agent
Improves wet Rub fastness and wash fastness.
NEW ARRIVALS
New Arrivals- Business Textile
19
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Has very low formaldehyde content.
Printofix Thickener DSE liq
Synthetic Thickener for Pigment Printing
Properties
Stable to Electrolytes
Easy to Handle, can be added directly to printing pastes.
Sharper and better defined prints
Colour brightness and yield
Colour Effects: Dyes
Drimaren Dark Red HF-CD cdg
High concentrated, economical Red dye suitable for Exhaust &
Continuous application on Cotton
Properties
Outstanding Build up & High degree of Fixation
Good Light fastness in Medium & dark shades
Very good washing off properties, low multi fibre staining
High oxidative Bleach fastness, suitable for M&S fastness
requirements
Economical element for heavy Deep Reds & other Dark
shades.
Metal Free & AOX free
High process reliability
Status :Remazol Ultra Carmine RGB Rs. 650/-
Cibacron Deep Red C-D Rs. 700/-
Speciality Binders Technical Textiles
Appretan TS
Vinyl acetate homopolymer, specially suited for non-wovens to
impart hard handle with mouldability.
Properties
Vinyl acetate homopolymer, specially suited for non-wovens
to impart hard handle with mouldability.
Highly effective and back Coating of Woven carpet and
automobile air Filters.
Suitable for Needle felt/punch, interlinings and non-woven
waddings.
Very good stiffening agent for textile applications.
Compatible for automotive moulding and shapes.
Appretan N 94111
Acrylate-Copolymer, Suitable for Non-Wovens and Coating
related Application.
Properties
Soft handle for Non-wovens.
Hydrophilic self cross linking wash and dry cleaning
resistant especially for all types of wipes.
APEO free and suitable for coating application, wherein soft
handle is required.
Compatible with fluorocarbons, thickeners and flame
retardants.
Low yellowing after curing at high temperature and good
stability to light ageing.
Fluorocarbons Technical Textiles
Nuva 1541
Economical Fluorocarbon
Properties
Very good initial water and oil repellency.
Less sensitive to residues on goods.
Suitable for synthetics and cellulosics fibres with limited
wash durability.
Application for the decorative fabrics / flock base fabric for
initial repellency
Nuva 2110
Fluorocarbon with LAD and low curing performance.
Properties
Extremely durable water and oil repellency on synthetic and
cellulosic fibers and their blends.
Less sensitive to residues on goods.
Displays very good low curing potential.
Displays very good effectiveness after laundering and air
drying.
Suitable for temperature sensitive fibers / Sensitive colours
due to Low curing potential.
Flame - retardants
Pekoflam OP liq
Organic phosphorus compound for simple and effective flame
retardant finishing of textiles of all kinds.
Properties
Combine effect of Soil release with good water and oil
repellency.
Fogging-free.
suitable for high temperature curing in combination with
fluorocarbons or cross linking agents.
Handle and shade are usually not adversely affected.
A harder handle can occur when pure PES or PES rich
fabrics are treated with Pekoflam OP liq.
The flame retardant effect is not fast to washing but
withstands dry cleaning.
Requires no special pretreatment. Pekoflam OP liq can be
combined with most resin finishing agents such as reactant
resins (e.g. Arkofix NDL liq c), polymer dispersions (e.g.
Appretan MB Extra liq) etc.
To improve the liquor stability Pekoflam OP liq should be
added at the end.
Finishing Chemicals
Arkofix NDL.IN liq
Low formaldehyde crosslinking agent specifically for moist
cross linking applications.
NEW ARRIVALS
20
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Properties
High performance parameters in resin finishing (low strength
loss, high DP rating).
Best results in package with Ceralube HD.IN liq, Catalyst
MC1.IN liq, Solusoft MW liq c.
Good stability under high acidic conditions. pH 1.5.
Suitable for Moist Cure Applications.
Highly concentrated, so effective in low dosages.
Catalyst MC1.IN liq
Catalyst for moist crosslinking.
Properties
High performance parameters in resin finishing (low strength
loss , high DP) are achievable through moist crosslinking
techniques.
Best results in package with Ceralube HD.IN liq, Arkofix
NDL.IN liq, Solusoft MW liq c or Solusoft UP liq hc.
Provides low pH conditions required for moist cure
applications.
Better control in pH and performance than conventional moist
crosslinking catalysts.
Ceraperm MD PLUS liq
Bulky and Leathery Touch
Properties
Bouncy leathery handle.
Interesting new handles can be obtained in self or in
combination with products like Solusoft MW liq c and
Solusoft UP liq hc.
Has minimum effect on whiteness of the fabric.
Key features are bounce, handle, leather touch and durability.
Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq
A silicone softener for towels with excellent surface handle and
hydrophilic properties.
Properties
Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq can be used for all those applications
where very good surface handle is desired.
Hydrophilic macroemulsion , non ionic.
Excellent Surface handle and suppleness .
Can be used along with Ceraperm Aqua , Solusoft TOW in
padding for very good hydrophilic handle .
Can be used to impart a wet handle to Towels.
Catalyst MC1.IN liq
Catalyst for moist Cross linking.
Properties
High performance parameters in resin finishing (low strength
loss , high DP) are achievable through moist crosslinking
techniques.
Best results in package with Ceralube HD.IN liq, Arkofix
NDL.IN liq, Solusoft MW liq c or Solusoft UP liq hc.
Provides low pH conditions required for moist cure
applications.
Better control in pH and performance than conventional moist
crosslinking catalysts.
Hydroperm ECO liq
Hydrophilizing agent with softener properties for the use on
shirting, outdoor , sportswear - articles made of Cotton,
Polyamide and blends wicking on knit wear and wovens.
supports the transport of moisture in an ideal manner
Properties
improves perfectly wicking and surface evaporation
properties of the finished goods
imparts soft handle to the goods
does not impair the degree of whiteness of optically
brightened goods
for woven and knitwear
main use by padding on cotton and Polyamide and PA/
Elasthane
suitable for exhaust application on Polyamide and PA/
Elasthane
is formaldehyde-free
not combinable with resins and their catalysts
not recommended for Polyester and their blends.
Solusoft Fluid
Amino modified silicone fluid for simple preparation of silicone
micro Emulsions.
Properties
very simple preparation of silicone microemulsions with an
optimal silicone content to meet requirements.
no emulsifiers necessary.
self-emulsifying silicone fluid.
no special facilities, reactors or stirrers required.
stable microemulsions are obtained.
the dry content of dilutions can be adjusted to suit needs.
(dry content from 26% to 10%).
Ceraperm SFC
Specially developed silicone compound for soft fluorocarbon
Finishes.
Properties
Supplies a pleasant soft hand feel.
No negative influence on water- and oil repellency.
Virtually no negative influence on soil release finishes.
Reduces considerably the negative influence of resin on
fluorocarbon products.
Main use on cotton and cotton blends.
For woven and knitwear.
Gives good sewability properties in combination with
fluorocarbons on knitwear.
Only slight influence on the thermo migration of disperse
dyes on PES or PES blends.
NEW ARRIVALS
21
Colour Chronicle
May 2008 Inside Views
Textiles
January 5, 2008 - 63rd AITC, organized by, Textile Association
of India (Ahmedabad Unit), at Ahmedabad. Mr. Anjani Prasad,
Country Head of Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals Division,
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, emphasized on the New
Trends in Processing. Many of our customers were present at
the forum along with a few competitors and people from the
academics.
January 28, 2008 - International Conference POLY-2008,
organized by IIT Delhi, wherein, Mr. Asis Patnaik, Head,
Business Line, Functional Effects, spoke on the topic,
Advances in Polymer Science and Technology. Clariant had
a booth at this forum. Mr.
Dinesh Borole, R&D
Department, represented us at
the same.
February 9 -10, 2008 - Seminar
was held at Kanpur, on the
theme Futuristic Textiles,
organized by The Institution of
Engineers (India). Mr. Anjani
Prasad, was one of the
Chairperson, for the technical
session. He also spoke on,
Innovation in Textiles Recent
Trends, Mr. Pankaj Johari, Regional
Sales, Mirzapur, spoke on the topic,
Innovations in Carpet Processing
and Silk
D y e i n g /
P r i n t i n g /
Fi n i s h i n g
Techniques Dr. (Ms.) Sujata Pariti,
Business Communication, presented
on the topic, New Trends in
Technical Textile and Mr. Sushen
Banerjee, Regional Sales, spoke on
Printing in Textiles. Here also many of people from Defence
attended the seminar along with students from the textile
colleges present in the area.
February 11-12, 2008 A technical workshop was conducted at
Coats-Water Mill, Ambasamudra. Clariant was represented by
Mr. Prabhat Trivedi, Head KAMs and Business Communication
Mr. Arasan Regional Sales Manager, Bangalore and Mr. Anirudh
Pangam, Productline-Forons . Technical staff from Coats our
global KAMS customer participated in this workshop. The
topics covered were Foron RD Dyes, Dyeing auxiliaries for
synthetics and cotton and pretreatment. Emphasis was also
laid on GOTS and Okeo-Tex standards. The sessions were very
interactive. Activities of Clariant Consultancy Services,
including process audits and certificate course will be chalked
out in coming months.
March 10, 2008 Conference on the theme, Contribution of
Colorants to Indian Economic Growth, was jointly organized
by DMAI and FICCI. Mr. Anjani Prasad, was the Chairperson
in one of the technical sessions over here. He also presented a
paper on the topic, New Features for us to Realise, wherein
he spoke on the challenges faced by textile industry and the
ways to solve these. He also spoke on the new trends, which
are being followed and about the future of textiles.
Leather
February 11-13, 2008 - A hands on training program on
Finishing was organized at Chennai Leather Service Center
starting between February 11-13, 2008 in the presence of Mr.
Ricard Salvado and Mr. P. Mazumdar
February 14 - 15, 2008 - A Roadshow was organized for Drish
Shoes and Natural Hide & Skins in Jalandhar on February 14-
15, 2008 and the spring-summer 2008 leather collection was
showcased.
March 9, 2008 - A Roadshow was also organized at Tata
International Ltd on March 9, 2008 wherein Fashion Articles
from the spring-summer 2008 leather collection as well as
Upgradation on Goat & Cow was displayed and subsequently
an upgradation project commenced.
Clariants Prabhat Trivedi and Anirudh Pangam with Participants at
Coats-Water Mill, Ambasamudra
Anjani Prasad in Kanpur
Sushen Banerjee
Dr. (Ms.) Sujata Pariti
INSIDE VIEWS
22
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
AWARDS
Awards
The following certificate was presented by Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd to M.s D. R. Dyechem (India) Pvt. Ltd/
Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd.
Trophy presented jointly to D.R Dyechem (India) Pvt. Ltd and Clariant Chemicals
(India) Ltd.
23
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Wrinkle Free Cotton Inventor
Honored
Ruth Benerito will be inducted into the
US National Inventors Hall of Fame for
her work in the development of wrinkle
free cotton. The induction ceremony will
take place may 3, In Alkron, Ohio, USA>
Benerito earned a BS in chemistry from
sophie Newcomb college, the womens
college of Tulane University. She also
received her MS from Tulane and a PhD
from the Uniersity of Chicago, Benerito
began her carreer teaching at Randolph-
Macon Womens College and at Tulane.
In 1953, she took a position with the US
Department of Agricultures Southern
Regional Research Centre (USDA / SRRC)
where she remained for more than 30
years. It as at the USDA that Benerito
developed wrinkle free cotton. Her re-
search in cellulose chemistry showed
that when specific reagents were bonded
to cellulise, the fibers did not form creases.
Cool Colors Top Fall Palette
This fall, designers are emphasizing cool
blues, greens and purples. Leatrice
Eiseman, executive director of the
Pantone Color Institute says, Fall is tra-
ditionally a time for subdued, quiet col-
ors, but this season, we are seeing a shift
toward cool hues with bright, exciting un-
dertones. In fact, Pantones Color of the
Year for 2008 is Blue lris, a balanced blue
with an undertone of purple. But the tra-
ditional warm autumn colors are not gone.
Pantones top 10 colors, chosen by de-
signers at New Yorks Fashion Week, also
Include Burnt Orange and Ochre.
Women Want Fashion
The importance of womenswear is re-
flected in the focus of the fashion indus-
try. New colors and fashions begin in
womenswear, and then influence the other
apparel categories. Womenswear drives
fashion and trends, says Lauren
Deatherage, treand specialist in
womenswear for cotton Incorporated.
Gleanings from Press
Trends start out in womenswear; more
so than in menswear or childrenswear.
Womenswear offers designers a greater
chance to experiment with silhouettes as
well as color and fabric. The Skys the
limit.
According to Deatherage, womenswear
is more experimental than other apparel
categories with color, fabric, prints, and
silhouettes. Womenswear gives design-
ers a bigger palettle and range of expres-
sion, she says, Women need different
apparel for different situations and are
able to show off different fashions.
In turn, fashion has a much greater influ-
ence on womenswear than on other ap-
parel categories. The obsolescence fac-
tor is much more prevalent in
womenswear, notes Munro. And a fash-
ion becomes obsolete in womenswear
much more quickly. In contrast, changes
in fashion for menswear move gradually.
Men have basically been wearing the
same suit since the late 1800S, jokes
Anderson.
Wool Consumers Protest
Animal Cruelty
Mulesing is a controversial surgical pro-
cedure to remove the skin and hair
around the anus and genitals of Merino
wool sheep. Farmers use the procedure
to prevent bits of feces from becoming
trapped in the wool where maggots can
hatch and attack the sheep; animal activ-
ists and a growing number of wool con-
sumers protest the pactice as cruel be-
cause it is commonly performed without
anestinetic. Recently, Australlian Wool
Innovation (AWI) announced its dedi-
cation to finding alternatives to the cur-
rent techniques. ECO Cralg Welsh said,
I am personally committed to driving this
company to meet the industrys commit-
ment. The industry goal is to phase out
mulesing by 2010. The most promising
current alternatives are clips, intradermal
injection, and breeding.
Marks and Spencer launches
temperature regulating product
with Outlast tech
Marks and Spencer wants to improve the
comfort of men in United Kingdom and
to do so they present a new line of tem-
perature regulating underwear with the
Outlast PCM technology. M&S s exclu-
sive and innovative new range if mens-
wear Climate Control, is made using in-
genious Outlast fibres that incorporate
temperature control technology to help
keep you feeling cold
The Outlast technology was originally
developed for NASA to protect astro-
nauts from temperature fluctuations and
is now used in the Climate control range
Climate control active clothing absorbs
excess body heat, expertly balancing the
body temperature, while the fabrics feel
cool and soft to the touch. If the body
temperature drops stored heat is gradu-
ally released as and when needed, pre-
venting chilliness as the body cools
down and providing a warm, cosy layer
Whether youre working up a sweat on
the golf course or waiting on a freezing
train platform, getting overheated or feel-
ing the cold isnt much fun. Marks and
Spencer explains the Climate Control
products added value and comes up
something that will help consumers feel
more comfortable and that means calm
and collected all time whatever the
weather, what ever they are doing. Tanks
to Outlast technology Climate Control
underwear will help keep the body tem-
perature just right
Right now M&S is very happy with the
first sales of the long sleeve zip up top a
short sleeve crew neck top and long pants
(all cotton and viscose Outlast). And
Marks & Spencers reveals; in spring /
summer 2008 the innovative Climate Con-
trol concept with the practical added value
should reach other product groups.
GLEANINGS FROM PRESS
24
Colour Chronicle
May 2008
Contact
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by Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
Designed and Printed by Creative Advertising and Marketing
Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi
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Editorial Board: Sanjay Sathe, Hitendra Parekh, Sunil Kadam,
Rajanikanth Prasad and Sunil Joshi.
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Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited