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"For use [the roots] are... boiled and pounded into a paste, which dyes directly from water and this direct dyeing has
been its chief recommendation. It is only necessary to put the cotton, silk or wool to be dyed, into a boiling decoction
of the paste, and with appropriate treatment yellows, orange-yellows, olives and browns are obtained ... The Pattani
dyers use turmeric. They mix it with lime in equal proportions, and set it to ferment."
Other processes use acid and alum. The colour is rather fugitive, but it still has considerable ritual importance in parts of the
maritime region. This ritual importance may explain why it does not occur amongst the colours used for cloths woven for daily wear in
villages of early Java. Use of the colour may have been technically easy but socially restricted.
8. mangapus: 'apus oyer, ie. ikat dyer\ See text for discussion.
9. Other processors who were connected with the local dye-processing industries included the mapahangan or amahang ('processor of
pahang). Zoetmulder (1982:1232) has suggested that the termpahang refers to the lower stem of the ental or lontar palm flower, the
ash of which is still used as a mordant and an enhancer of red dyes. Lontar (Borassus flabellifera) produces ash which, like that of the
coconut palm and merang, is considered to be particularly effective in fixing colours on cloth. Another related processor was the
manglurung. 'processor of oil (lurung)\ The term lunmg now refers to castor oil, which is much used in the preparation of cloth for
wungkudu dyeing, but in the past kamiri nuts, sesame seeds and other sources were used. The product of the manghapu ('lime burner')
must have been used both in dyeing and in the consumption of betel.
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Appendix 3: Textiles mentioned in wnang ('privilege') lists (llth-14th centuries)
The earliest original inscriptions (as opposed to 14th century reissues) bearing lists of wnang, or privileges related to status and ritual,
granted to recipients otsima charters, date to the mid 11th century. They continued to appear until the end of the 14th century, each
set of privileges granted being unique. No two appear to have been quite the same. The below represent a fair selection.
1. Ambang Putih (mid 11th century?) (Brandes 1913: cxviii): al8... may wear singkil (=singhel7) garments of white and yellow...
2. Garaman (AD 1053) (Boechari: unpublished) 4a5 ... in pros rituals (life crisis rituals) may wear pasilih galuh [cloth], may use
bananten as decorative hangings, may use bananten cloth awidanaga (?), may wear all sorts of ritual cloths: nawagraha (9-planet)
pattern, nagapuspa (white nagasari flower) pattern, etc...
3. Panumbangan (mid 12th century) (Brandes 1913: lxix) a9-10:... may use bananten cloth to cover sereh containers (?), may use
bananten cloth as decorative hangings ...
4. Ceker (AD 1185) (Brandes 1913: lxxii) a9A5:... may use [red] coloured anjing [cloth?] decorated with painted colours (tulisa
warnna)...
5. Kemulan (AD 1194) (Brandes 1913: lxxiii) a21/25; bll/12:... may use bananten cloth as decorative hangings... may wear yellow...
all sorts of clothing... may paint in colours (matulisa warnna)... may use bananten cloth on cushions, may wear dodot (ceremonial
sarong) which has been painted (tinulis) ...
6. Lawadan (early 13th century) (Brandes 1913: lxxvii) allA6/17:... may paint in colours (matulis warnna) may use bananten cloth as
decorative hangings... may paint in colours (matulisa warnna) ... may wear susu [...] dodot...
7. Waharu (14th century reissue of charter dated AD 931) (Boechari 1986: 59-65). iib3... may use to sit upon bananten cloth which is
not black, may use bananten cloth as decorative hangings... may wear insignia of rank (sand)... the foremost being nagapuspa (white
nagasari flower) pattern, nawagraha (9 planet) pattern ...
8. Kakurangan (14th century reissue of charter dated AD 1023) (Boechari 1986: 67-70) ivb5:... may wear insignia of rank and use
bananten cloth as decorative hangings, may use to sit upon bananten cloth which is not black ...
9. Kambang Sri (14th century reissue of charter dated AD 1042) (Boechari 1986: 72-5) ib4:... may use bananten cloth as decorative
hangings, may use bananten cloth awidanaga (?), may use bananten cloth on cushions, may use to sit upon bananten cloth, may wear
(?) [such patterns as:] ajon (?), locust/grasshopper, flowers, split lotus (?), yellow seed (?) as clothing (?); may use in wall (offering
rituals)... dodot (ceremonial garment) with green lotus and yellow, may wear as apparel nawagraha (9 planet) pattern, pasilih galuh
(pasilih jewel) pattern...
10. Tuhaharu (AD 1323) (Boechari 1986:77-85) viiia5:... may use bananten cloth as a screen ... may paint wteng (tulis wteng) ... viiibl:
... may wear insignia of rank: pasilih tamping (pasilih bordered),pasilih galuh (pasilih jewel), pasilih kambungan (?),pasilih hening kdi
(?) patterns ... may wear gold bracelets and anklets, may wear apparel painted in gold (tinulis ingmas) ...
11. Manguri (14th century copy of charter dated AD 937) (van Naerssen 1941: vii) 2b5 ... may use anjing [cloth?] of red ... 3a2/4:...
may use bananten lama [cloth](?), may use bananten cloth as decorative hangings... may wear dodot garments painted in tawar gold
(tinulis ring mas tawar) ...
12. Biluluk 2/4 (AD 1393) (Boechari 1986:174-5) va3:... may use insignia of rank:pasilih galuh, vegetal pattern, red lotus pattern, may
use all kinds of wali, the foremost being nagapuspa pattern, nawagraha pattern... flowers used by Hino, split lotus pattern... may use
bananten cloth as decorative hangings...
27
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