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L I B R A R Y OF THE
NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE
OF HOME ECONOMICS
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
I T H A C A , NEW YORK
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Date Due
RETURN TO
ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY
ITHACA, N. Y.
Cornell University Library
TT 515.G8
Pattern drafting, pattern grading, garme
3 1924 003 596 545
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Tattern Drafting
^Pattern Grading
Qarment Making
Qarment Fitting
By
Edmund Qurney
Send All 0rders for Books to Dunn Bros.
Price $5.00
Printed by Dunn Bros., 421 East Sixth Street, Los Angeles
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All rights reserved. This book, or parts
thereof, must not be reproduced in any
form without permission of the publisher.
THIRD AND REVISED EDITION
PRlNTED lN THE UNlTED STATES OF AMERlCA
Copyright 1939
by
EDMUND GURNEY
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
20Living.
20The satisfying life.
21Preface.
22To the teacher of sewing and garment
making.
22To be happy.
23To all who sew.
23Nothing is, or can be too good for you.
25Description of individual types and pos-
tures.
26Description of measures.
28Measures.
28Standard table of measures.
28Will power.
29Three kinds of people.
30The morning hope and evening content-
ment.
31Pattern drafting by the Gurney self-grad-
ing method.
33The Gurney sure-fit curve chart.
34How to use the Gurney curve chart.
34If any little love of mine.
36Pattern drafting.
36Drafting the dress back.
36Drafting the two-piece dress back.
38Drafting the dress front.
38Drafting the two-piece dress front.
40Adapting" the normal size standard pat-
terns to individual requirements applic-
able to all makes of patterns.
42Fitting the round shouldered individual.
42My business.
44Fitting the round shouldered individual
(continued).
45A quick easy method of adapting commer-
cial patterns for the round shouldered.
45Altering ready-made garments for high
shoulders.
46Pin tucks in the back.
47I'll not confer with sorrow.
48Fitting the individual with large bust.
49Our greatest glory.
50Fitting the large bust (continued).
50I am.
51Fitting the large bust (continued).
52To make pin tucks in the front.
53To enlarge a pattern over the bust with or
without the use of pin tucks.
Page
54The primary cause of ill-fitting garments.
54Shrinking woolens.
54A little art, a little care.
55Cutting the material and making gar-
ments.
55Yesterday.
56Drafting the sleeves with the use of the
Gurney curve chart.
57Sleeves and sleeve measurements applic-
able to all makes of patterns.
57Of rules that say "don't".
58Drafting sleeves.
58Oh, for faith and strength to win.
59To draft the straight dress or coat sleeve.
60The tight sleeve.
60Hidden deep.
61To draft the tight sleeve.
62The straight coat sleeve made tight on the
wrist.
62After all, a good sport.
63How the Gurney sleeve differs from all
other makes of sleeve patterns.
63Within yourself.
64The two-piece jacket and coat sleeve.
64We owe it to ourselves.
65To draft the two-piece jacket and coat
sleeve.
65We owe it to ourselves.
66To enlarge the sleeve at the top for the
large arm.
67Enlarging the sleeve for the big arm.
68The Gurney comfortable short sleeve.
68A daily thought.
69To make the sleeve larger or smaller at
the wrist.
70The short sleeve which is gathered at the
bottom.
70Greetings.
71For gathers at the bottom (fig. 9).
71_For gathers at the top (fig. 9B).
72To draft the balloon sleeve applicable to
coats and dresses.
74To draft the bell sleeve.
75Fancy coat sleeve (large at elbow, small
at wrist).
76To draft the bishop sleeve.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued)
Page
77Adapting the dress pattern for woolen
garments.
77There is great economy, etc.
78The costume slip.
79To draft the costume slip.
79All in the dark we grope along.
80The kimono dress.
81To draft the kimono dress.
81A kindly deed.
82To draft Peter Pan collars.
83Maximum roll collar.
83I wish, I can, I will.
84The Gurney method of sure-f1t collar
drafting.
85Roll collars.
86To draft the shirt waist.
86There is only one way to be happy.
87The shirt waist.
88The transposing of darts to obtain various
styles, applicable to all makes of patterns.
88Fig. 1, the Gurney basic method.
88Fig. 2, for gathers at the front.
89Fig. 5, for shirring at the shoulder.
89Fig. 6, for gathers at the armscye.
90Fig. 7, for gathers at the V opening.
90Fig. 8, for gathers at the neckline.
90Fig. 8, for tucks at the front neckline.
91Fig. 9, for fullness at the waist.
91Fig. 9, for two darts at the side seam.
91Fig. 10, the choker neck.
92Fig. 11, for gathers or shirring at the ex-
tended shoulder seam.
92Blest be the tongue that speaks no ill.
93TO draft the Eton jacket (Bolero).
94To draft the plain coat.
94The man who trusts men.
95Think.
95Remember.
96To draft the plain coat (continued).
96Kindness.
98Pressing and removing shine.
98Let me today.
99To enlarge a coat pattern over the bust.
99Loving words.
100To draft the jacket.
101To draft the jacket pattern.
101Silence.
Page
102To draft a jacket pattern with a seam in
the center of the back.
104To draft the fitted coat.
105The fitted coat.
106To draft the coat raglan.
108The raglan coat (continued).
109The raglan coat and sleeve.
110To draft the dolman coat.
110Believe in yourself.
112To draft the dolman coat sleeve.
112The world is wide.
114To draft the swagger coat.
114Smile a little.
115To draft the swagger coat (continued).
115Now.
116To draft the dress raglan.
116There are loyal hearts.
118To draft children's dress and coat patterns.
122To draft children's sleeve patterns.
123The Gurney method of basting sleeves in
the garment.
124To draft the cape.
125To make buttonhole loops.
125A little bit of kindness.
126To grade the dress back.
126There is nothing worth the doing.
127To grade the dress front.
128Grading the straight dress and coat sleeve.
129Grading the tight sleeve.
129We are all only a part of nature.
130To cut a coat lining.
130Relining a coat.
130The inner side of every cloud.
132To cut a coat lining (continued).
132To cut the lining for the two-piece sleeve.
133A shrine.
134To make tailor tacks.
135The Gurney method of economical correct
necktie cutting and making.
136Simplicity short cut steps in coat making.
137Let's endeavor.
138The Gurney method of making the high-
est grade collar applicable to coats and
dresses.
140The method of making a plain collar.
140The victory of success.
141If you want an interesting life.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued)
Page
142The Gurney method of drafting sure-fit
skirt patterns.
142Drafting the plain skirt front.
143Drafting the plain skirt back.
143Example.
144To draft the gored skirt.
144To draft the panel skirt.
145To draft the yoke skirt.
146To draft the circular skirt.
146Better trust all and be deceived.
147To make the inverted pleat.
148To make the plain skirt and dress placket.
150The Gurney sure-fit method of making
the concealed talon, hookless, sliding,
fastener skirt placket.
152Meditation.
153To make a dress hem in silk, crept and
very light weight woolen.
153To sew hooks and eyes on a skirt belt.
154To make a hem in heavy woolen material.
154Making and finishing the hem for the
pleated skirt.
156Easy method of making corners.
158Skirt slacks.
159Measures required for skirt slacks.
158Drafting skirt slacks front.
159Shorts for sport garments.
159Banish the future.
160Drafting skirt slacks (continued).
161Skirt slack back.
161Shorts for sport garments.
161Today will be my busy day.
162Economical cutting of slacks.
162Making slacks.
163Economical cutting of slacks (continued).
163The easiest thing to find fault.
164The Gurney sure-fit men's and boys'
shorts.
165Normal standard measures.
165When a bit of sunshine hits ye.
166To draft men's and boys' shorts.
168Wishing.
169How to cut shorts.
Page
170How to make shorts.
172The song of the shirt.
172Blessed are they who have the gift.
173Shirt measures.
173Methods of taking shirt measures.
173Proportionate standard shirt measures.
173How much easier.
174To draft men's and boys' shirts.
175Yoke and neck curves for all sizes.
175To make the French front with Indian
head facing.
176Shirt collar.
176Neck band.
176Cuffs.
178To make the French shirt front with the
facing material cut on the front.
179To draft the shirt sleeve.
180The Gurney easy and correct method for
making the shirt sleeve placket.
181Men's shirt sleeve placket.
181Oh, for faith and strength to win.
182The Gurney method of making bound
pockets and buttonholes in light weight
woolens, silk or lingerie materials.
184Bound buttonholes.
185The patch pocket for dresses.
186The Gurney method of making the inset
stand pocket for woolens, silk or lingerie
materials.
188The inset stand pocket.
190The in and out flap pocket.
191Patch pocket for woolens.
192Corded pockets and buttonholes.
194The Gurney new high grade method of
finishing buttonholes.
194_I will.
195The older method of making piped button-
holes and pockets.
196The braid or bias tape pocket.
198The welt pocket.
200The welt pocket with pressed-open seams.
201The pressed, open-seam bound pocket or
buttonhole.
201Speech.
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Pattern Drafting
Dress Pattern
Drafting
Dress Sleeves
Dress Making
INDEX
Page
Before drafting patterns it is advisable to first read
pages 22, 23, 25, 26, 31, 34, 54, 55
Gurney Sure-Fit Curve Chart 32
To make the Gurney Curve Chart.... 33
To use the Gurney Curve Chart 34
Dress, one piece, to draft the back 37
Dress, one piece, to draft the front 39
Dress, two piece, the back 37
Dress, two piece, the front 39
Adapting patterns to individual requirements applicable to all makes
of patterns 40
Dress pattern, for woolens 77
Raglan dress 116
Butterfly ("Bat") sleeve dress 118
Shirt waist 86
Children's dresses... 120
Kimono dress 80
Costume slip 78
Before drafting sleeve patterns read chapter on sleeve measures ap-
plicable to all makes of patterns 57
To draft sleeves.... 57
The Gurney sure-fit curve chart 32
How to use the sure-fit curve chart for sleeves 56
Straight dress sleeve 58
Blouse sleeve 58
Tight sleeve 60
Medium tight sleeve 61
Sleeve variations 61
The Gurney comfortable short sleeve 68
Short or long sleeve with gathers at the top 70
Long or short sleeve with gathers at the bottom..... 71
Balloon long sleeve 72
Balloon short sleeve 72
Bell sleeve 74
Bishop sleeve 74
To enlarge the sleeve at the top for the large arm 66
To enlarge the sleeve, large arm sleeve 67
Gurney method of basting sleeves in the garment 123
Gurney method of basting sleeves in the garment 123
111 fitting garments 54
Shrinking woolens, etc 54
Cutting the material 55
Tailor tacks, how to make. 134
Placket opening 148
Talon zipper placket 150
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INDEX (Continued)
Page
Dress Making Dress hem, Making the... - 153
(Continued) Pressing and removing shine. 98
Dress Transposing Fig. 1. The Gurney basic method 88
of Darts to Obtain Fig. 2. For gathers at the front 88
Various Styles Ap- Fig. 5. For shirring at the shoulder..... '... 89
plicable to All Fig. 6. For gathers at the armscye 89
Makes of Patterns Fig. 7. For gathers at the V opening. 90
Fig. 8. For gathers at the neckline.. 90
Fig. 8. For tucks at the front neckline...- 90
Fig. 9. For fullness at the waist 91
Fig. 9. For two darts at the side seam 91
Fig. 10. The choker neck 91
Fig. 11. For gathers or shirring at the extended shoulder seam 92
Fig. 3. For gathers at the waist 39
Collars See pages 136, 138, 82, 84, 85
Corners Easy method of making 156
Pin Tucks in Back Pin tucks Fig. 3 37
Pin tucks Fig. 8... 46
Pin tucks Figs. 5, 6, 7... 47
Pin Tucks in Front Pin tucks Figs. 9, 10, 11 52
Pin tucks Figs. 1, 2 53
Fitting Garments
Round Shoulders
and Large Blades
Large Bust
Coat and Jacket
Pattern Drafting
To Draft
It is advisable to first read the chapters, pages 25, 26, 31, 40
See illustrations and instructions on pages 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 94
See illustrations and instructions on pages 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 99
Primarily for all coat drafting the regular dress patterns are used,
as described on pages .37, 39
The Eton bolero jacket 93
Plain long coat back 95
Plain long coat front 96
Jacket with French fitted back 100
Jacket with seam in center back 102
Fitted long coat 104
Raglan coat 106
Raglan coat (continued) 108
Dolman coat 110
Dolman coat (continued) 112
Swagger coat.... 114
Children's coat... . 120
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INDEX (Continued)
Page
Coat and Jacket
Sleeves
To Draft The straight sleeve 59
The straight sleeve made tight at the wrist 62
Two piece jacket sleeve 64
Two piece coat sleeve.... 64
The balloon sleeve 72
The bell sleeve...... 74
The fancy sleeve.. 75
Coat Making Ill fitting garmentsprimary cause of. 54
Shrinking woolens 54
Cutting the material and garment making 55
Coat lining, how to cut 131
Two piece sleeve lining, how to cut 132
Relining coat 130
Tailor tacks, how to make.... 132
Coat making short steps 136
Gurney Method of
Basting Sleeves
in Garment 123
Pressing, Removing
Shine 98
Collars Straight collar 139
Plain collar 140
Easy Method of
Making Corners 156
/
Capes To draft the cape 124
Grading Patterns To grade the dress back 126
To grade the dress front 127
To grade the straight dress sleeve 128
To grade the straight coat sleeve 128
To grade the straight tight sleeve 129
Skirts Sure-fit pattern drafting
The plain skirtthe front. 142
The plain skirtthe back 143
The gored skirt 144
The flared skirt 144
The panel skirt 144
The yoke skirt.. 145
The circular skirt 146
The inverted pleat 147
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INDEX (Continued)
Skirt Making
Skirt Slacks
Shorts, Men's and
Boys'
Shirts
Necktie Making
Pockets and
Buttonholes
Page
The skirt placket 148
The talon zipper placket 150
Putting on the belt 151
Hooks and eyes 153
To make the hem in heavy woolens 155
Making the hem for a pleated skirt 155
Skirt slacks, to draft.... 158
To draft the front.... 159
To draft the back 160
Economical cutting of slacks 161
Making of slacks 162
Shorts for sport garments 159
Shorts for sport garments (continued)... ., 161
Men's and boys' shorts 164
Normal standard measures... 165
Drafting men's and boys' short patterns 166
How to cut material for shorts 169
How to make men's and boys' shorts 170
Shirt measures 173
Method of taking shirt measures '. 173
Standard shirt measures 173
To draft men's and boys' shirts (See Pages 175-181)
135
To make buttonhole loops 125
The Gurney method of making bound pockets and buttonholes in light
weight woolens, silk or lingerie materials 182
Bound buttonholes 184
The patch pocket for dresses 185
The Gurney method of making the inset stand pocket for woolens,
lingerie, silks, etc 186
The inset stand pocket 188
The in and out flap pocket 190
Patch pocket for woolens. 191
Corded pockets and buttonholes 192
The Gurney new high grade method of finishing buttonholes 194
The older method of making piped buttonholes and pockets 195
The braid or bias tape pocket 196
The welt pocket 198
The welt pocket with pressed-open seams 200
The pressed, open-seam bound pocket or buttonhole 201
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. HE poems in this book are a gathering of
several years and were copied from news-
papers, magazines, etc. They were selected
because of their uplifting, encouraging and
educational contents. As far as possible, the
authors have been quoted. It is sincerely
hoped that this explanation of acknowledge-
ment and recognition will, in a measure,
compensate for the printing of these poems.
Cordially yours,
EDMUND GURNEY.
;
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LIVING
ON'T go through life as if you
were following a script written
by another. Live your lije with a zest
and a freshness of interpretation that
will set you above the ordinary indi-
vidual. Life is a garment, and wise is
the man who cuts his own
pattern.
THE SATISFYING; LIFE
For those who seek the larger happiness and the
greater effectiveness upon human beings there can be
but one philosophy of life. The philosophy of con-
structive altruism. The truly happy man is always a
fighting optimist. Optimism includes not only altruism
but also social responsibility, social courage and ob-
jectivity for the benefit of his fellowmen. This is the
golden way of life. This is the satisfying life. This is
the way to be happy though human.
JT. Beran Wolfe.
[20]
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In the year 1631 a peasant found a baby
basket containing a little boy, a purse of money
and a note stating that whoever found the
basket and took proper care of the baby would
never know want. It also stated that the much
desired and beloved infant was, because of de-
formity, not desired as a ruler of its family.
Accordingly money was for some period con-
tinuously received from an unknown source for
its upkeep. As the boy grew older he developed
a desire for sewing, thus the lad was named
Lodivicus (loves sewing), meaning in the Flem-
ish or Dutch language, Geerne-naien. This was
the start of the Gurney tailoring family, and
the trade has until now been continuously in
the same family under the same name. How-
ever, as education has progressed the name has
gradually changed first to Geernaei, then to
Geernay and further as the French language
became more in commercial use to Gernay.
An early branch of the family moved to
England, another to the United States. No
record was ever kept, only as it was related
from parent to son. No search has ever been
instituted, but it appears the name was again
changed to the more easily used language of
the country to Gurney.
Regardless of my love for the trade, I have
several times tried to give up the tailoring
business. However, Providence or destiny de-
creed otherwise and has indicated that I could
be of more benefit and service to my fellowmen
by doing precisely what my father, grandfather
and great-grandfather have done.
Hence, it has always been my desire to popu-
larize the Science of Tailoring and sewing by
making it attractive and accessible to all minds
desirous of learning it. I am the last descend-
ant of the Gurney family in the trade and aim
to simplify the work of all who sew or teach
sewing. Therefore, with this purpose con-
stantly before me I have written this book con-
taining practical knowledge of an art which is
as interesting as it is useful and profitable.
Edmund Gurney.
[21]
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TO THE TEACHER OF SEWING AND GARMENT MAKING
This is an age of production. Teaching trans-
lated means, instilling self confidence and con-
structiveness for ease and economic production.
Teaching is creating a hankering, a dreaming
and a thrilling desire for further accomplish-
ment to productive self independence.
I believe that all who wish to can accom-
plish. It is up to us as teachers to banish the
student's complex of "I Can't" and to instill
in its place ambition and pride in the students'
efforts. All people are not equally gifted, there-
fore, we must compliment and encourage the
reticent pupil. Many times we find that the
student who grasps things quickly frequently
forgets them just as readily, and because of
this fact our "retarded" pupil often becomes
our most efficient student.
Very frequently I observe seamstresses who
have exceedingly good garment making talent,
working hard and apparently very fast. How-
ever, because of unsystematic methods and im-
proper handling, their work does not progress
in accordance with their laborious efforts. The
reason for this is that no one has ever taught
them how to handle their work for progressive
and rapid sewing. Perhaps many of you teach-
ers have members in your classes who will be
going out into the sewing world without fur-
ther training. Are you presenting them with
the knowledge and the materials necessary to
simplify their work and make it enjoyable for
them ?
To Be Happy
Think things conitructlvely; don't defame.
Thlnk things good; don't betray.
Think things hopeful; don't thlnk fear.
Thlnk faith in Providence.
Then hang on, blng on, no matter what they >ay.
Slng on, cling on, things wlll come your way.
Slttlng down won't help a blt;
Only way to get there ls by keeplng up your grit.
E. G.
[22]
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TO ALL WHO SEW
Dressmaking does not consist solely of neat
and elegant sewingit is knowing the purpose
of the stitch; whether it is permanent, will
show, etc. Too many or too few stitches are the
marks of a "home-made" dress, and that is an
outstanding feature which we wish to avoid.
Perhaps the first item that enters our mind
when we think of making sewing easier is good
equipment. Good equipment consists of: (1)
sharp scissors, (2) small pins as large ones
leave pin marks, (3) short needles, (4) a tape
measure that will not stretch or shrink, (5)
white tailor's chalk for making lines, etc. (col-
ored chalk should never be used because it does
not rub out), (6) a yardstick, (7) a thimble of
the correct size, (8) a table or working space
which will provide ample room for cutting pur-
poses, (9) a sewing machine of your own
choice, which you keep in good condition at all
times, (10) an iron, pressing block, pressing
cloths and sponge.
There is never any occasion in sewing for you
to have the needle pointed away from you or
toward you. (We, in daily life, often have pins
and needles enough in our hearts without stick-
ing them in ourselves.) The needle must at all
times be inserted so it will be parallel with the
body, thus the hand needs no special turn and
the arm is free for the right sewing. Also when
sewing, the garment should rest on all four
fingers; thus, the work will slide off the hand
holding it and will constitute progressive sew-
ing with the least handling and effort.
Do not try to put the whole garment on one
needle or on one length of thread. Use shorter
lengths of thread in basting and hand sewing
as then you will not be spending all your time
in untangling the thread or pulling it out arms
length between each stitch. Also, never "kiss"
your needle or pins before inserting them in
the material as they will leave marks.
With these few suggestions, and with the
information in the remainder of the book, all
of you can become adept in garment and pattern
making and fitting. Think of things only in a
constructive manner and you will find that it
will all be so easy and enjoyable.
Nothing IS, or can be too good for YOU.
Whatever is worth doing, is worth doing WELL.
Always do the very best you can, just for YOU.
Thusly! there will be no excuses or alibis,
And You will be contented.E. G.
[23]
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Fiy.J
[24]
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DESCRIPTION OF INDIVIDUAL TYPES AND POSTURE
With few exceptions we are born with normal
posture and it is up to our individual selves to
remain normal. The distance from the tip of the
middle finger of one hand to the tip of the mid-
dle finger of the other with our hands out-
stretched is equal to our total height. The Cre-
ator made us upright, intending us to be and
act upright. He made us just as wide as we are
tall, consequently, we are upright and square.
This accounts for the saying, "Be true to your-
self," and if you are true to yourself, "upright
and square," you will think only of things con-
structive and feel good all of the time.
Nature intended us to be and walk erect with
our chin parallel with our shoulders. If we do as
Nature tells us, we will be well balanced, in Fig-
ure 5; up and doing, tireless, good-feeling, ever
active and always ready to go. We can all enjoy
this type of posture with a little practice each
morning in walking on our tip-toes with the
palms of our hands forward and our chins up.
This will create energy through your whole
body and give you the sensation of being pro-
pelled forward. You will feel light and airy and
you will be able to walk on eggs with heavy
shoes without cracking them!!!
Figure 4 is just the opposite of Figure 5. She
is pepless, usually tired, and looking for some-
thing on which to rest, hence her slightly round
back and shoulders.
Figure 1 is the high shouldered type of indi-
vidual, and usually have a broad face and short
neck.
Figure 2 is the sloping shouldered type of
individual and usually have a narrow face and
long neck.
Figure 3 is the large person with very round
back and usually with a large bust.
These figures all illustrate the normal types
of individuals and it is natural for us to won-
der what design of clothes should be worn by
each.
To dress in good taste, the contour and phys-
iognomy of the face should be of primary con-
sideration. Second, vivacity; third, posture
attitude; fourth, facial complexion; fifth, height
and size; sixth, sedateness; seventh, color of
hair and eyes.
Frequently twin sisters who look exactly alike
are so different in action that the same dress
will be becoming to one and not to the other.
One of the two is vivacious and has a certain
attractive swing. She can dress conspicuously
and our eyes are unconsciously responsive in
following her across the ballroom. However, her
sedate sister wearing a duplicate dress does not
appeal to the eyes the same as the vivacious
sister. Thus, the same dress is becoming to the
one and not to the other.
The same is true in nature, as for instance
the multiple colored butterfly moves slowly to
display her colors; whereas the single light col-
ored butterfly moves quickly because she real-
izes her tiring effect on our eyes. Regarding
color, note the different colors in a bed of pan-
sies. I have never seen a pansy but that it had
some little bit of life color, orange (the sun
color). Orange means life and light and a little
bit of orange is always flattering to all other
colors and is in good taste to all womanhood.
Equally so light greens are life-giving colors.
The colors that liven you, the colors that you
feel happy in, the colors that brighten your in-
ner self are the colors most becoming to you.
A dress cut with a "V" shape neckline pro-
duces the effect of a longer neck, longer face
and more sloping shoulders and should be worn
by high shouldered people as illustrated by Fig-
ure 1. A becoming necklace of good taste for her
should be of small beads and hanging in a "V"
shape. The dress may have three pin tucks on
the shoulder five inches long. The shoulder seam
should be short to produce a narrow effect.
Figure 2 should wear just the opposite of
Figure 1. Note the neckline of her dress is cut
square. Four or five pin tucks four inches long,
broaden the shoulder effect and produce fullness
over the bust. Jewelry of heavy, large beads or
a double string of beads worn as a choker are
very becoming to her because this ensemble
will produce broad effects. The dress suitable
for this individual is also becoming to Figure 4.
Figure 5 will have no trouble in finding styles
becoming to her as she is the symbol of Na-
ture's intent.
There is a color in Tune with YOt/.
There is a color in Harmony with YOU.
There is a color that acts as a Tonic to YOU.
There is a color that Pleases YOU.
That is Just the Color for YOU.E. G.
[25]
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DESCRIPTION OF MEASURES
The All Wise Nature has made us all subjects
to its laws. The division of each and every part
of the body is a positive unit measure and cor-
responds with the whole body as Nature in-
tended.
The inch! What is the inch, why and whence
the inch? The inch equals the width of the
thumb, four times the width of the thumb
equals the width of the hand, and three times
the width of the hand equals the length of the
foot. Thus, 12 units, twelve inches is the length
of the foot. Why twelve inches? Twelve, be-
cause it is divisible in fourths, halves, thirds,
and sixths without fractions. We are eight
hands, 64 thumbs or 64 units high. Therefore,
64 inches is the basic height and is divisible in
fourths and eighths without fractions. The
length from the neck to the waist is one-fourth
of our total height, etc. For widths, twice
around the wrist over the wrist bone equals
once around the neck taut under the chin. Three
times around the neck equals once around the
bust. The basic standard size from which all
patterns are made larger and smaller is the
twelve-inch neck, the 34-inch bust, and the
64-inch height.
I do not advocate taking a lot of measure-
ments on the individual as no two persons will
take them alike. Instead of doing that, use the
combined wrist and neck measures to derive
the correct size pattern. Take the wrist meas-
ure tight over the wrist bone and multiply it
by six to obtain the bust measure as: the wrist
measures 6 inches multiplied by six equals 36
inches for the bust. Take the neck measure
taut under the chin and multiply it by three to
obtain the bust measure as: the neck measures
12 inches and multiplied by 3 is 36 inches for
the bust. This method of measuring has proven
96 percent correct for all sizes and makes of
patterns.
The actual bust measure of an individual may
be either larger or smaller than the size derived
in this method. This does not mean that the
size of the pattern obtained by the neck meas-
ure is not correct. Lines "A" in Figures 3 and
5 illustrate the normal figure and lines "B"
illustrate individuals with larger busts. How-
ever, both individuals "A" and "B" on either
figure require the same size pattern. Please note
that the measure across their backs has re-
mained the same and that only the measure-
ment across their bust has changed. Therefore,
to properly fit these individuals use the size
pattern indicated by their neck measure and
adjust the pattern to fit the bust as discussed
in the chapter on fitting, pages 40, 42, 44.
Although Figure 4 has a smaller bust than
Figure 5, she still requires the same size pat-
tern as Figure 5 because of the width across
her back. Thus, please observe that the neck
measure is a positive unit of measure for the
required width of the back, and that no matter
how large or small a bust the individual may
have she must use the size pattern indicated by
her frame.
Because of the more general athletic forms
and because of the types of material used today,
patterns are much larger than they used to be,
as size 16 (34 bust) now compares to the for-
mer size 36. Therefore, in using the bust meas-
ure derived by the neck measure you may sub-
tract two inches and use that size pattern, as
for a size 12-inch neck, use a size 16 pattern.
[26]
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When taking measures it is "PRIMARILY IMPORTANT" to "eye fit" the individual.
By this I mean to take note of her posture, to observe whether her shoulders are high as
Figure 1; sloping as Figure 2; round as Figures 3 and 4, or normal and erect as Figure 5.
[27]
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MEASURES
When taking measures always stand back of
the individual.
1. Tie a tape around the waist.
2. Insert pins at the sides and the back 7
inches below the tape for the hipline.
3. Insert a pin 8 inches, maximum 9 inches
from the neck in front for the bust line. The
bust may actually be lower than 9 inches but
9 inches is the maximum depth from the neck
that the bust measure is taken.
4. Insert pins 7 inches from the neck in the
back.
5. Take the bust measure snugly but not
tight over the pins.
6. Take the waist measure.
7. Take the hip measure taut but not tight
over the pins.
8. Take the length from the neck to waist.
9. For a dress or coat take the length measure
from the neck to the floor and subtract the
amount that the garment is desired shorter.
10. For the sleeve length make a two inch
fold on the tape measure. Insert a pencil in this
fold and place the pencil tight under the arm
at the armscye, and take the sleeve length and
subtract two inches from this.
11. For the skirt take the waist measure, hip
measure and the desired length.
In the measuring illustration you will note
that the neck measure is taken taut around the
neck close under the chin and that the wrist
measure is taken tight over the wrist bone.
STANDARD TABLE OF MEASURES
Size (Bust) 32(14) 34(16) 36 38 40 42 44 46
Waist.. 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39
Hip 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49
48 50 inches
41 43 inches
51 53 inches
WILL POWER
That which one wills to do, he has the power to do. A
knowledge of this, requires faith. When faith moves, the
soul begins its flight. Every act of will requires an object.
He who wills must will something, and he must have faith
in the thing he wills to do.
[28]
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MEASURES
"There are three kinds of people in the worldthe Can'ts, the Won'ts, and the Wills. The Can'ts fail in everything,
the Won'ts oppose everything, and the Wills accomplish everything."WILLIAM T. ELLIS.
[29]
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The Morning Hope
The morning star the night succeeds
I therefore meekly pray,
May God in all my works and deeds
Keep me from harm this day.
May He in love restrain me still
From tones of strife and words of ill,
And wrap around and close my eyes
To earth's absorbing vanities;
May wrath and thought that gender shame
Never in my breast abide
And painful abstinences tame
Of wanton flesh the pride.
So when this weary day is over
And night and stillness comes once more
I may repeat in gleeful mirth,
I am harmony, I am peace, I am good-will to all, and all.
GOOD MORNING
The Evening Contentment
Now that the daylight has died away
And night and stillness has come once more
The Maker of this World I pray
To watch my bed above.
Let dreams depart and phantoms fly,
The offspring of the night,
And keep me like shrine beneath thine eye,
Pure in my foes despite.
This grace and contentment providence confers
When we are in harmony and peace with all and all.
GOOD NIGHT!
[30]
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PATTERN DRAFTING
BY THE GURNEY SELF-GRADING METHOD
The method of pattern drafting or garment
making given in this book is very simple, is very
concise and the directions are very easy to fol-
low. All terms or expressions used in the book
are explained just as they appear.
I do not aim to give the directions for draft-
ing patterns according to the numerous meas-
urements of the individual, because no two per-
sons take measurements alike. The directions
given are for the normal size patterns as used
by manufacturers and all commercial patterns.
Then I have given you the adaptations neces-
sary to adjust the pattern to all required meas-
urements. These methods of adjusting the pat-
tern are not only applicable to these patterns
but to all makes of patterns.
The detailed directions and illustrations in
this book are all for the size 16 pattern (34
bust, 37 hip). However, the same procedure is
used for all sizes of patterns. Size 16 is com-
mercially termed the "SL0PER" pattern and is
the size used by the manufacturing trade in
grading all larger and smaller sizes. When draft-
ing patterns by the directions in this book you
will note that the directions continuously refer
to plus and minus. As plus for each size larger
and minus for each size smaller. This is, in
every detail in accord with all pattern grading,
thusly you automatically become familiar with
the usual grading requirements because the
Gurney Method of pattern drafting is SELF
GRADING. By this I mean that all directions
are provided for making the patterns larger or
smaller than size 16 by the use of the words
minus or plus.
The materials required for pattern drafting
are not numerous, nor do they need to be of
great expense to you. A hard lead pencil (num-
ber 4 or 6 hard) is preferable as the lines will
be very fine and they will not add to the size
of the pattern. A tailor's square will be advan-
tageous to you as then no other measuring
equipment is necessary. However, if you do not
have a square use a letter sheet to square your
lines and use a common ruler for measuring. A
curved instrument facilitates the drawing of
curved lines. However, as you proceed in this
book you will find a curve chart which has been
made especially to draw curved lines in pattern
drafting. You will also need a scissors, a tracing
wheel and a tape line which will not stretch.
Therefore, with a minimum amount of equip-
ment and with the aid of the directions in this
book you will be able to draft all types and sizes
of patterns. If you will follow the directions
carefully and complete each step as it is given
you will be happy with the results.
You do not have to be a dressmaker to make
dress patterns, any 16 year old school boy or
girl can make these patterns, and "Believe it or
not" your husband will take pleasure in tak-
ing an evening off and make the desired pat-
tern for you, also with the simplified fitting
instructions he will be able to fit you. Just tell
that husband, father or kind brother that you
will make a shirt or a pair of shorts for him if
he will make the pattern, they will be delighted
with the comfortable fit of these garments and
you know that by making a garment for the
menfolks is a super great inducement for them
to be generous to you for your own clothing.
For dressmaking establishments and schools
I recommend the use of linings correctly made
of all sizes for general observations to pre-fit a
person, then apply the observation notes in cut-
ting the material.
"The highest art requires the simplest tools."
[31]
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THE GURNEY SURE-FIT CURVE CHART
Architects and draftsmen use various types
of instruments to draw curves. Therefore, to
aid you in drawing curved lines in pattern
drafting I have made this Gurney curve chart.
The chart on this page is full size. Place a
sheet of paper on top of the page and trace the
lines and letter marks of the chart. From this
tracing make a chart of heavy paper.
The use of the chart is explained on the fol-
lowing pages.
&
[32]
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TO MAKE THE GURNEY CURVE CHART
B
B
Draft the back for size 16.
Draft the front for size 16 so that the under
arm seam will meet the under arm seam of the
back. The back curve of the chart follows the
back armscye curve as R to T to V to DD. The
front curve of the chart follows the front
armscye curve as Q to R to U to B. Mark 16
where the under arm points B and DD meet
and extend the chart lines beyond R and Q as
illustrated.
This chart is applicable for all curves in all
pattern drafting.
N
GURNEV
CURVE CHART
[33]
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HOW TO USE THE GURNEY CURVE CHART
Figure 1. Drafting the dress back with the use
of the curve chart.
Draft the regular dress back, omitting the
armscye curve, neck curve and hip curve.
To draw the armscye curve for size 16, place
point 16 of the chart on point DD so the chart
touches point R and outline. This will locate
point T at the intersection of line C. For each
size larger than size 16, point 16 of the chart
is placed an added 14 inch in from point DD,
as: For size 36 point 16 is 1/4 inch in from DD,
and for size 38 point 16 is 1/2 mcn from DD, for
size 40 point 16 is % inch in from DD, etc. For
all sizes smaller we proceed just the opposite
of making it larger with the exception that we
reduce only % inch for each size at DD as for
each size smaller than 16, point 16 is % inch
out from DD, etc., for all sizes.
To draw the back neck curve place point J of
the chart on point N so the chart contacts line
B to BB and outline.
To draw the back hip curve place letter M at
dot M so the chart contacts dot L and outline.
Figure 2. Drafting the dress front with the use
of the curve chart.
Draft the regular dress front, omitting the
armscye curve, neck curve and hip curve.
To draw the front armscye curve for size 16,
place point 16 of the chart on point B so the
chart touches point Q and outline. This will
locate point R at the intersection of line CC.
For each size larger than size 16, point 16 of
the chart is placed an added 1/4 mcn m from
point B, as: For size 36 point 16 is 1/4 inch in
from B, and for size 38 point 16 is 1/o inch in
from B, for size 40 point 16 is % inch in from
B, etc. For all sizes smaller we proceed just the
opposite of making it larger with the exception
that we reduce only % inch for each size at B
as for each size smaller than 16, point 16 is
1/8 inch out from B, etc., for all sizes. Figure 2
illustrates the drafting of size 40, therefore, it
will be noted that point 16 of the chart is %,
inch in from point B.
To draw the front neck curve place point 16
of the chart on dot 5 so the chart will contact
point N and outline.
To draw the front hip curve place letter
M at dot M so the chart contacts dot L and
outline.
// any little love of mine
May make a life the sweeter,
lf any little care of mine
May make a friend's the fleeter.
If any life of mine may ease
The burden of another,
God give me love and care and strength
To help my toiling brother.
[34]
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HOW TO USE THE GURNEY CURVE CHART
[35]
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Drafting the Dress Back
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to you.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the right of you mark A.
A to B is 34 inch.
B to C is 41/& inches for size 16 and increases ys inch for each size larger up to and including size
42, and decreases ys inch for each size smaller including size 12.
C to D equals B to C.
B to E is 16 inches.
E to F is 7 inches.
B to G is the total length of the garment.
Draw right angle lines from A, B, C, D, E, F, G. If you do not have a square use a letter sheet to
make the right angle lines.
A to AA is 9% inches for size 16 and increases yz inch for each size larger and decreases yz inch
for each size smaller.
F to FF equals A to AA. Draw line AA to FF and mark CC, DD, EE at the intersections.
FF to H is 14 inch.
EE to I is 14 inch. Draw a line from I through H the full length of the garment and mark GG
at the intersection with line G.
K is center of G to GG.
GG to J is yz inch. Draw line J to K.
H to L is % inch.
E to M is 14 of the total waist measure plus 1 inch. Draw the curved line M to L.
Draw line DD to M.
A to N is 2% inches for size 16 and increases V& inch for each size larger and decreases ys inch
for each size smaller.
N to O is 3 inches. Square a line down from O.
O to OO is 1V2 inches. Draw a line from N through OO.
A to P is 714 inches for size 16 and increases 14 inch for each size larger and decreases !/4 inch
for each size smaller.
D to PP equals A to P. Draw line P to PP and mark R and S at the intersections as illustrated.
S to T is l^inch.
PP to U (both ways) is 114 inches. Draw line U to U and mark V in the center.
Draw curved line R to T to V to DD.
Square a line down from N and mark BB at the intersection with line B.
BB to W is % inch. Draw line N to W and mark X in the center.
B to Y is 1 inch. Draw curved line Y to X to N.
A dart is made in the skirt of the two-piece dress as follows:
2 is center of E to M.
2 to 3 (both ways) is yz inch.
F to 4 equals E to 2. Draw a line from 4 to 2.
4 to 5 is 1 inch. Draw lines 3 to 5.
E to 6 is % inch.
3 to 7 is 5/s inch. Draw line 6 to 7. Draw curve line 7 to M.
E to 8 is 14. inch.
3 to 9 is 14 inch. Draw line 8 to 9. Draw curved line 9 to M.
For a dart in the one-piece dress proceed the same as for the dart in the two-piece dress. Extend
line 2 to 10 five inches. Draw lines 3 to 10.
If the garment is desired very loose add yz mcn as DD to Z on the side and Y-i inch as R to Y on
the armscye.
If the shoulder length is desired shorterR to y is 14 inch. Reduce from y to V as the dashed
line illustrates.
When cutting the pattern allow a Y-i inch seam at the neck line and % inch seams elsewhere.
Patience and will acquire courage and skill.
[36]
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TO DRAFT THE DRESS BACK
Before drafting, read the chapters on Meas-
ures and Pattern Drafting. Then follow direc-
tions and as you proceed, complete each step.
To easily make the curves use the Gurney
Curve Chart, see Pages 32, 33, and 35.
For primary pattern drafting practise it is
advisable to first draft the normal standard
"sloper" pattern size 16 (34 bust, 37 hip). The
same procedure is used to draft all sizes. Then,
after you have drafted the pattern (both back
and front), and before cutting the paper pat-
tern, you will, to complete the pattern, refer to
the chapter on the Gurney method of Adapting
Patterns to the Individual Measurements and
Requirements, Page 40. Please note that this
method and all the fitting methods described
in this book are applicable to all sizes and makes
of patterns. When cutting the paper pattern
allow % inch seams on the pattern.
Figure 3 illustrates an easy method to pro-
vide pin tucks at the back for the slightly round
shoulder. A to 2 is 4 inches. Cut the pattern
from 2 to 3. Spread pattern open one-half inch
as 2 to 4. The pattern will now appear as dotted
lines 5-6-7-8. Straighten the line at 9. Line 2
to A is the fold of the goods. This method pro-
vides for 5 small pin tucks. Further illustra-
tions on Pages 42 and 46.
FIG.3
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Drafting the Dress Front
Draw a line 4 inches from the edge of the paper nearest to you.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the right of you mark A.
A to B is 8 inches for size 16 and increases 14, inch for each size larger up to and including size
42, and decreases 14 inch for each size smaller including size 12.
B to C is 214 inches always.
B to D is the amount of the dart and is 1 inch for size 16. The dart increases 1/& inch for each
size larger and decreases 1/8 inch for each size smaller.
D to E equals D to E of the back.
E to F is 7 inches.
Draw right angle lines from A, B, C, E, F.
A to AA is 9% inches for size 16 and increases 1/2 inch for each size larger and decreases 1/2 inch
for each size smaller.
F to FF equals A to AA. Draw line AA to FF marking BB, CC, EE at the intersections as illus-
trated.
Extend line FF to G. FF to G equals F to G of the back. Draw a right angle line from G.
F to H is 14 inch.
E to I is 14 inch. Draw a line from I through H until it intersects line G and mark this point GG.
GG to J is 1/2 inch.
K is center of G to GG. Draw line J to K.
H to L is % inch.
EE to M is 14 of the total waist measure plus 1 inch. Draw curved line M to L.
AA to N is 2% inches for size 16 and increases % inch for each size larger and decreases 1/6 inch
for each size smaller.
N to O is 4 inches. Square a line down from O.
O to P is 114 inches. Draw a line from N through P.
N to Q is the length of the back shoulder less 14 inch.
CC to R is 6% inches for size 16 and increases 14 inch for each size larger and decreases 14 inch
for each size smaller.
BB to S equals CC to R. Draw line R to S.
S to T (both ways) is i% inches. Draw line T to T.
U is center of T to T. Draw curved line Q to R to U to B.
B to V is 214 inches.
V to V2 equals B to D.
W is center of V to V2.
W to X equals C to R plus % inch. Draw lines V to X and V2 to X.
Draw line V2 to M.
AA to 2 equals AA to N.
N to 3 equals AA to 2. Draw lines N to 3, 2 to 3, an AA to 3.
AA to 7 equals AA to N, plus % inch.
N to 6 is 1/2 inch.
2 to 5 is % inch. Draw curved line N to 6 to 7 to 5 to 2.
For the two-piece front:
EE to 8 is 34 inch.
9 is center of EE to M.
9 to 10 is % inch. Draw the curved line M to 10 to 8. This line is the cutting line for both the skirt
and the blouse.
If the garment is desired loose add 1/2 inch as B to Z and 14. inch as Q to Y.
If the shoulder length is desired shorterQ to y is 14 inch. Reduce as y to U illustrates.
When cutting the pattern allow a 14-inch seam at the neck line and %-inch seams elsewhere.
[38]
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TO DRAFT THE DRESS FRONT
z
When drafting pattern always make back
portion first. To easily make curves use the
Gurney Curve Chart, Page 32.
Before cutting the paper pattern you will, to
complete the pattern refer to the Chapter
"Adapting the Normal Size Standard Pattern
to Individual Measures and Requirements."
Page 40.
THE 6URNEY
METHOD TO MAKE
MORE FULLNESS
AT THE WAIST
FIG. 3
To provide for gathers at the waist, cut the
pattern on line 12 to X and decrease the dart at
V to V as the shaded part illustrates.
Success links arms with Faith and Will
[39]
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ADAPTING THE NORMAL SIZE STANDARD PATTERNS
TO INDIVIDUAL REQUIREMENTS
Applicable to all Makes of Patterns
Patterns drafted according to the Gurney
Sure-fit method of pattern drafting will produce
a pattern corresponding to the Standard Table
of Measures, Page 28. Thus a size 16 is a 34
bust, 27 waist, and 37 hip. Size 40 is a 34 waist,
43 hip, etc.
As you proceed and study the fitting illustra-
tions, you will note that in fitting by the Gurney
method, we never, never change the shoulder
point at the neck. We do the fitting where fit-
ting is required. For quick, efficient and eco-
nomic results in business and schools, it is
urgently advised to have a complete set of lin-
ings ready to try on to "pre-fit" the individual.
This gives an opportunity for extended observa-
tion to be used when cutting the material.
TO MAKE A PATTERN LARGER AROUND
THE WAIST AND HIP
Let us assume that the pattern was made for
a standard size, 34 bust and 37 hip, but the in-
dividual's hip measure is 38 inches. This indi-
cates that the pattern must be made one inch
larger around the hips. This amount is divided
into four equal parts as will be noted in Figures
1 and 2 on the opposite page. D to 3 of the back
and front is one-fourth of the amount (1/4)
inch, and a like amount is added at the bottom
as E to 4 on both front and back. We will now
assume that a size 40 pattern, 43 hip is used,
but the hip measure of the individual is 45
inches. This indicates that the pattern must be
made two inches larger around the hips. Again,
in this case, we will add one-fourth of the
amount, y* inch, on the hip line, D to 3 on both
back and front, and a like amount at the bot-
tom. By this method the pattern will have been
made proportionately larger from the hip to the
hem line. See dotted lines 3 to 4. If the waist
measure is correct we will continue the line
from the hip to the waist as dotted line 3 to C
illustrates. However, if the waist must be made
larger, add one-fourth of the amount at the
waist line as dotted line C to 5 both back and
front, then draw a line on the back as 5 to B
and on the front from 5 to the dart. We have
now completed the pattern for larger hips and
waist. For smaller hips the alterations can be
made when fitting the garment. When cutting
the pattern always allow % inch for all seams.
TO ALTER A PATTERN FOR HIGH
SHOULDERS
Figure 1 illustrates high shoulders. When
fitting a normal standard pattern on an indi-
vidual of this type, you will observe that a fold
or wrinkle is formed about 3 inches below the
neckline as letter A, Figure 1 illustrates. The
reason for this is because of insufficient mate-
rial at the shoulder point. The outline of the
pattern K to 0 and F to 0 is the normal shoul-
der line, and for the high shouldered individual
we add on both front and back 14 to 1/2 inch
as 0 to 1 illustrates. Now draw a new line as
K to 1 and F to 1. Then the armscye must be
raised a like amount on both front and back as
B to 1. By this method the circumference of the
armscye remains the same. Generally no pro-
vision is made for the high shouldered indi-
vidual on the commercial tissue paper pattern.
Then the fitter usually pins and pins the gar-
ment up on the shoulder seam and aims by this
method to obtain a well balanced garment. It is
true that the required results may be obtained.
However the neckline must be recut, the width
at the back of the neck is out of proportion, etc.
It is much better to re-cut the front and the
back by placing the pattern on the garment and
adding the required amount, thus the garment
will retain its proper proportion as intended.
The shaded portions on both back and front
illustrates that one-half inch was added on the
shoulder seams for additional outlet if required.
FOR THE SLOPING SHOULDERED
INDIVIDUAL AS FIGURE 2
0 to 2 on both back and front is 14 to 1/2 inch
at the shoulder seam and the armscye is 1/4 to
1/2 inch lower on both back and front as B to 2
illustrates. However, for the sloping shouldered
individual it is advisable to lengthen the shoul-
der seam 14 to % inch as the dotted line on the
dress draft Page 37. R to Y at the back and
Q to Y on the front draft illustrates.
To alter ready made garments for high shoulders, see Page 44.
[40]
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ADAPTING PATTERNS TO INDIVIDUAL REQUIREMENTS
The Gurney method of adapting the normal
standard patterns to the individual require-
ments for larger hips, high and sloping shoul-
ders, etc., applicable to all makes of patterns.
Primarily we have taken note of the indi-
vidual posture in accordance with description of
individual types and measures as on Pages 25
and 26.
H/6HSHOULDERS
SLOPlHG\
[41]
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FITTING THE ROUND SHOULDERED INDIVIDUAL
It is an economical advantage and great time
saver to have ready to use a complete set of
dress patterns, also to have a set of dress lin-
ings ready made to try on. If so, you will be sur-
prised at the fitting qualities, and for abnormal
forms this will enable you to note essential
alterations which primarily can be taken care
of when cutting the material. Please note that
the illustrated alterations methods of fitting
are applicable to all makes of patterns.
Fitting means to obtain balance. To obtain
balance on the scale so the pans will hang
evenly the weight on the two pans must be
equalized. So it is with fitting the human figure,
all parts must be equalized before the garment
will hang correctly.
Figures 1 and 2 illustrate what happens when
garments are not properly balanced on the fig-
ure. Figure 1 outlined as G, B, N, R, DD, and
Figure 2 outlined as B, Q, N, 2, G illustrate a
well balanced garment for the normal figure.
The dotted lines illustrate what happens when
the figure is not exactly normal and they will
be referred to in the following discussion on
fitting.
Let us fit a lining on Figure 3B the size of
which has been obtained by the neck measure
and with the required hip alterations. Imme-
diately you will note the wrinkles formed as
numbers 1 and 2 on the back and which extend
to the front as in Figure 4B. Also you will ob-
serve that the lining spreads open at the hem-
line in the front as number 5 on Figure 3B
and protrudes at the hemline in the back. This
is very well illustrated by the shaded portions
G to G2 on Figures 1 and 2.
The cause for all of these things is the lack
of sufficient material from the armscye to the
neckline in the back as D to B in Figure 1. In
other words this individual has a slightly round
back or protruding shoulder blades, which re-
quire extra length.
VJ
My business is not to remake myself,
But to make the absolute best of what God
made. Robert Browning.
[42]
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FITTING THE ROUND SHOULDERED INDIVIDUAL(Continued)
To correctly observe the required length at
the back for the round shouldered individual,
pull the garment down, (regardless of the
amount), until the back hangs in its proper
position as illustrated in Figure 5 B. It will then
be noted that the back is too low at the neck
as letters A to B, Figure 5 B illustrates. How-
ever, the amount indicated from A to B is the
correct amount that the back has to be made
longer from the armseye to the neck. If, for
instance, the garment has been cut this re-
quired amount, one inch may be obtained by
deepening the armseye at the back 1/2 inch and
by cutting the shoulder of the front 1/2 inch
lower. Thus, the combined two, equal the re-
FIG. <oB
quired amount, one inch; and the circumfer-
ence of the armscye remains the same. Conse-
quently, by observing the posture attitude of
the individual this alteration can be made when
cutting the material. When a commercial pat-
tern is used, put a tuck or fold of V2 inch across
the front. For the back, cut the back portion
across the back 3 inches below the shoulder and
spread it open 1/2 inch. Thus, the combined
changes on front and back equal 1 inch. If the
individual is very round shouldered as Figure 3,
Page 24, then in addition to the already ob-
tained extra length provision may be made for
pin tucks at the neck as described and illus-
trated in Figure 3, Pages 37, 39.
Perhaps 6 B is a clearer illustration of how
to obtain the correct required extra length from
the armscye to the neck. Figure 6 B illustrates
a lining on which a piece of cambric, about 21/2
inches wide is basted firmly to position across
the back 3 inches below the shoulder line. Put
the lining on the individual so that the neck
portion is on the individual in the proper posi-
tion. Cut the lining across the back just below
the basting. Let the lower portion drop so that
it hangs in the proper position. Pin it firmly to
the lining. Thus, the amount from C to D and E
to F positively indicates the correct amount
that the back portion must be made longer to
obtain a well balanced garment.
For coats a small shoulder dart may be made
as Fig. 7. B to D is 21/2 inches. A is center of
N to B. Draw a line 21/2 inches long as A to C
parallel with line B to D. Cut on lines A to C
and C to D. Hold the pattern at C and swing
it until A to E is 1/2 inch. Point F will then
overlap point D. Add 14 inch as F to H and
draw line G to H to the sleeve curve. The pat-
tern will now appear as N, A, C, E, G, H, J, the
amount from A to E being a small dart. If this
does not add sufficient length you may create
more by lowering the armscye 1/4 maximum 1/2
inch as J to K.
[44]
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A QUICK EASY METHOD OF ADAPTING COMMERCIAL
PATTERNS FOR THE ROUND SHOULDERED
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
a ai4
For the round shouldered person the back
from the armscye to the neck is made longer
either by cutting the pattern as 5 to 5 and
spreading it open 1/o inch as the shading 5 to 6
illustrates, or by outlining the pattern as O-A B
and cutting the armscye V2 mcn deeper as B
to 2 and the dotted line 2 to 4 illustrates, in
addition thereto pin tucks may be made at the
neck see pages 37, fig. 3; page 46, fig. 8; page
47, fig. 6. Also the front part is made 1/2 inch
shorter either by making a V2 fold as 7 to 8
or by cutting the armscye 1/4 higher as B to 3
illustrates thus the circumference of the arm-
scye remains the same size.
ALTERING READY-MADE GARMENTS FOR HIGH SHOULDERS
To alter the garment that has been made
up, as in ready made garments for a high shoul-
dered person, open the shoulder seams to 11/^
inches from the armscye and press the seam
flat. The back will then appear as E to A to C
to A and E. To recut the back. A to B and
C to D is 1/> inch. Draw line B to E. When re-
sewing the back hold the back portion tightly
on the front and sew the shoulder seams. Then
put the collar on the new line B. D. B. This
method will produce good results.
Ficf.4
[45]
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PIN TUCKS IN THE BACK
Primarily pin tucks are made in the back of
the neck line to make the garment fit better
over the round or full part of the back of the
neck, and to create fullness for protruding
shoulder blades. These tucks may be made either
on the inside or outside of the garment.
However, for the back it is preferable to make
the tucks on the outside so they may serve as
a trimming as well as being purposeful. Also
if the tucks are stitched on the inside and there
is a little strain on the ends of the tucks the
stitching will spread apart and this will not
add to the appearance of the garment. It is
desirable to make the tucks on the straight
grain of the material rather than slanting them
as most patterns do. Graduated tucks are very
hard to make and at their best usually do not
appear very neat. Therefore, it is advisable to
stitch the tucks straight.
Figure 5 illustrates the position and the
stitching of the tucks for the back. You will
note that the tucks are 21/2 inches in length
and T^ inch on the double in width. Thus % inch
is required for each tuck.
Figure 6 illustrates a method of designing
the paper pattern for pin tucks. 0utline the
regular dress pattern as A, B, C, D, E, F. For
three ^ inch pin tucks slide the pattern for-
ward 3/8 inch as A to X and F to G. While the
center back is on line X to G outline the neck
as X to BB and the shoulder as BB to CC. Hold
the pattern at CC and swing the lower portion
of the armscye so that point D is on dot D as
previously located and outline the armscye as
CC to 4 illustrates. If the back is desired still
wider add 14 mcn as CC to 8.
Figure 7 illustrates a method of making pin
tucks for a slightly round back. Pin the regular
dress pattern to another sheet of paper as F,
G, D. G to 5 is 11/! inches. Draw a line parallel
with line G to D as 5 to 4. Cut the pattern on
line 5 to 4 and spread the pattern open V2 inch
as 5 to 6. Pin the pattern to position and it
will now appear as the dotted lines 6 to AA to
BB to CC to 4 illustrate. The amount from A
to X will provide the required amount for three
pin tucks.
For a high round back the pattern may also
be cut on line 9 to 10 and spread open as pre-
viously described.
Figure 8 illustrates a simple and easy method
of preparing the material for tucks when the
pattern has made no allowance for them. Pin
the pattern firmly on the fold of the material
as pins 3, 4, and 5 illustrate. For three ^ inch
pin tucks pull the material % inch out from
the pattern as A to D illustrates. Insert pins
6, 7, 8. For the regular back cut the material
along the pattern as D to 0 and 8 to 2. For a
round back D to 10 is 1/2 inch and 0 to 9 is the
same. Draw a curved line from 10 to 9 and
draw line 9 to 11 as illustrated. Cut on these
lines. See the Gurney method for marking the
location of the pin tucks on the next page.
(C fOW of THE
[46]
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->xr
Av
7LiNEX -AA
/'// HII/ confer with sorrow
Till tomorrow;
But joy shall have her way
This very Jay.
T. B. Aldrich.
[47]
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FITTING THE INDIVIDUAL WITH LARGE BUST
Now let us fit a lining on an individual with
a slightly large bust as illustrated by line B in
Figure 5. Immediately you will note the wrin-
kles formed at the bust as numbers 1 and 2
and extending to the back as number 3 in Fig-
ures 5B and 6B. Also you will note that the
garment is too tight at the hip line, cups in, and
overlaps at the hem line in the front as illus-
trated by the shaded portions G to G3 on Fig-
ures 1 and 2 on page 42. Let us assume that the
individual requires a size 36 pattern by her neck
measure, but that her actual bust measure is
size 38. If you use a size 38 pattern for her you
will find that it will be too small over the bust
and will be too large across the back, neck and
sleeves. Then if you use a size 36 pattern you
will find that it will fit perfectly at the back,
neck and sleeves, but will be too small over the
bust. Therefore, to correctly fit this individual
we will use a size 36 pattern and adjust it to fit
the bust.
Cut a lining from the 36 pattern leaving it
open down the front and allow two inches on
the center front. Sew up the darts which will
be either under arm darts or shoulder darts.
Baste a piece of cambric 4 inches wide firmly to
position the width of the front two inches below
the armscye. Put the lining on the individual
and cut the lining across the front to the under
arm seam just over the fullest part of the bust.
Let the lower portion drop until it hangs in a
straight line down the center front and pin it
to position as 10 to 11 and A to B. Thus, the
amount from A to B is the extra length required
over the bust.
Inset Figure 1 illustrates the pattern as it
will appear from the lining just fitted. You will
note that the upper part is not in a straight line
with the lower part as 2 to 3 to 4. Therefore, N
to O is 114 inches. Cut the pattern on line O to
A and place line 2 to 4 in a straight line with
the center front as in inset 2. This illustrates
that the amount from O to S is required over
and above the dart already in the garment and
is usually used as pin tucks. However, this
amount may be decreased by cutting the pat-
tern on the original dart as A to X and increas-
ing the dart as X to X2, thus the amount from
O to S is decreased as 0 to O2. You may also
divide the fullness by spreading the pattern on
line Y to C for gathers at the waist line.
(Continued on Page 50)
[48]
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Our greatest glory consists not in never fall-
ing, but in rising every time we fall.
[49]
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FITTING THE LARGE BUST(Continued)
B
I
Fig. 10
I AM
I know not whence l came,
l know not whither l go;
But the fact stands clear that l am here
ln this world of pleasure and woe.
And out of the mist and murk
Another truth shines plain
/( is my power each day and hour
To add to its joy or its pain.
I know that the earth exists,
lt is none of my business why;
l cannot find out what it's all about,
l would but waste time to try.
My life is a brief, brief thing,
l am here for a little space,
And while l stay l would like, if l may,
To brighten and better the place.
The trouble, l think, with us all
ls the lack of a high conceit.
If each man thought he was sent to this spot
To make it a bit more sweet,
How soon we could gladden the world,
How easily right all wrong,
lf nobody shirked, and each one worked
To help his fellows along.
Cease wondering why you came
Stop looking for faults and flaws.
Rise up today in your pride and say,
"l am part of the First Great Cause!
However full the world,
There is room for an earnest man.
lt had need of me or I would not be-
/ am here to strengthen the plan.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox.
[50]
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FITTING THE LARGE BUST(Continued)
Let us now fit the individual with the exces-
sively large bust as illustrated by line B in Fig-
ure 3. If we place a lining on this person we will
find the same wrinkles as we found in the nor-
mal large bust. We shall use a semi-french drap-
ing method to fit this individual and to do so
we will eliminate the original dart V to V1.
Figure 8. V to V1 is the original dart. E to E1
equals V to V1. Make a fold on the pattern so
that E to V meets E1 to V1 and cut the lining
by this pattern. Baste a piece of cambric 4
inches wide across the front just below the
armscye. Put the lining on and cut the lining
only across the front over the fullest part of
the bust to the under arm seam as in Figure
8B. Let the lower portion of the lining drop
until it hangs in a straight line down the cen-
ter front and pin it to the cambric which is
illustrated by the shaded portion.
Inset 9 illustrates the appearance of the lin-
ing just fitted. It does not lay perfectly smooth
and the upper portion is not in a straight line
with the lower portion. Therefore, N to O in
Figure 10 is 11/4 inches. Cut from O to A and
bring A to C parallel with C to B as A to C2
illustrates. Thus, C2 to 22 will be in a straight
with the center front and the pattern will
spread as O to O2 which is the required dart.
This shoulder dart may be transposed to the
under arm seam as in Figure 11.
For a dress dart the amount from X to X2 is
too much for the under arm dart and it may be
divided into two darts or it may be divided as in
Figure 12. Cut the pattern from O to A and
spread it open as O to OO one inch. This amount
is usually used as pin tucks. You will note that
this has decreased the under arm dart. If you
desire to decrease it still more cut the pattern
as F to B and spread it open as F to FF one
inch or more. This amount will be used as gath-
ers. Thus, you will note that the dart has been
decreased from X to X2 as D to D1.
[51]
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TO MAKE PIN TUCKS IN THE FRONT
Pin tucks in the front are double and neutral
acting. We make tucks in the front for a flat
chested person or the individual with small
busts to make them appear broader. Pin tucks
are made for people with large busts to make
them appear smaller and also because they re-
quire the extra fullness created by the tucks.
Pin tucks are generally used as a trimming,
hence, it is a mistaken idea that no dart is
essential when pin tucks are used.
Figure 9 illustrates the position of the tucks
on the front. You will note that the tuck near-
est to the neck line is 41/2 inches long and that
the tucks gradually reduce in length to 31/2
inches for the one nearest the armscye.
Figure 10. Outline the regular pattern as 2,
N, Q, B, M. Mark the dart as V and V1. 2 to
3 is % inch. N to R is 1 inch. Place the cen-
ter front on line 3 to 3 and outline the shoulder
as Q2 to R. Hold the pattern at Q2 so that V
meets V and draw the curved line Q2 to B2 and
line B2 to V. R to S is 41/2 inches. R to 7 is %
inch. 7 to 8 is % inch. 8 to 9 is % inch. 9 to
U is 31/o inches. Draw line U to S to determine
the length of the other tucks. Draw line R to
9. The pattern will now be outlined as: M, V1,
V, B2, Q2, 9, R, N, 2.
Figure 11. To make the front larger with
pin tucks. Outline the regular dress front as:
2, N, Q, B, M and the dart V to V1. 2 to 3 is
V2 maximum % inch. Place the center front of
the pattern on line 3 and outline the front as
R, Q2, B2, V3 and V2. Hold the pattern at the
lowest point of the dart and swing the pattern
back to the normal waist line M. By this
method the width of the front is increased %"
over the bust.
[52]
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TO ENLARGE A PATTERN OVER THE BUST WITH OR
WITHOUT THE USE OF PIN TUCKS
The Gurney Method of Marking and Sewing
the Pin Tucks
For delicate material it is impossible to mark
the location of the tucks with chalk, etc. Cut a
piece of paper the same shape as the upper por-
tion of the neck at the back, also cut a piece
of paper the same shape as the front. Now
Figure 1. N to 2 is 1 inch.
Draw a line as 2 to 3 parallel with the center
front.
Figure 2. Cut on line 2 to 3.
Spread the pattern open % inch as 2 to 4 and 3
to 5. The amount from 2 to 4 will be used as
5 pin tucks and the amount from 3 to 5 will be
used as gathers. However, if gathers are not
desired at the waist line M to M2 equals 3 to 5.
Draw line V to M2.
To Enlarge a Pattern Over the Bust Without
the Use of Pin Tucks
Figure 3. R to S is % inch. Draw a line as A to
S to B parallel with the center front.
Figure 4. Cut on lines A to B and V to X.
B to B2 is y% inch. (Amount pattern is desired
larger.)
Hold the pattern at A and place point B on B2
and outline the armscye as the dotted line and
draw line B2 to V2.
V to V3 equals B to B2.
Hold the pattern at B and place V on point V3
.n and draw line V3 to M2. Thus the dart will have
increased as V2 to V3 illustrates and may be
divided into two small darts.
If fullness is desired at the waist line M2 to M
equals V to V3. Draw line V3 to M.
mark the location of the tucks on the paper
with a "very" light pencil line, pin it to position
on the garment and with a long stitch,stitch
along the pencil line, then remove the paper,
thusly you will have a correct mark to stitch
the pin tucks. After the tucks are stitched re-
move the stitching mark.
[53]
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THE PRIMARY CAUSE OF ILL-FITTING GARMENTS
AND SHRINKING WOOLENS
Woolen materials are always rolled in bolts.
When it is being rolled the inside half of the
material usually crawls forward, sometimes as
much as one-fourth yard. Salespeople generally
cut striped and checked material according to
the stripe, however, with plain material they
usually cut it on the double. If it is cut on the
double and the inner part of the material has
slipped forward in the bolting it is possible that
half of the width will be cut on the bias. Hence,
it is advisable at all times to have the material
torn and then the end will be on the true woof
thread.
Frequently when the material has been rolled
up and the woof threads are printed true at the
ends it will not lie smoothly on the table. If so,
one person will then hold one corner firmly and
a second person will hold the opposite corner
firmly and pull the material on the bias, thus
straightening the material as much as possible
in its dry state.
All woolen and shirt materials should be
thoroughly shrunk before cutting. To shrink
the woolens at home, pin the selvage edges to-
gether so the woof threads are even at the ends
regardless of whether the material will lie
smoothly. Place the material on top of news-
papers on the floor. Wet a piece of muslin thor-
oughly (preferably old sheeting) and wring it
out by hand as much as possible. Lay the wet
cloth smoothly on top of the woolens and roll
them together avoiding wrinkles as much as
possible. Leave it rolled for forty-five minutes
and then unroll it. Now while the fabric is damp
you can finish straightening it by having one
person hold each end of the material and pull-
ing it on the bias, first one way, then the other.
This must be done with the selvages pinned to-
gether as instructed before shrinking the ma-
terial. This pulling will straighten the woof and
warp threads and force them into their natural
position. Hold the cloth tight and lay it smooth-
ly on the paper. Have a hot iron ready and if
there are any wrinkles press them out while
the cloth is damp. However, it is not necessary
to press the whole clothpress only the wrin-
kles and allow the goods to lie until it is thor-
oughly dry. In no instance should you hang
woolen materials to dry when shrinking them.
If you do not desire to shrink your material
at home take it to a dry cleaning establishment
and let them steam it which is sufficient for
shrinking. However, please note that it is ad-
visable that you observe whether the woof
threads are even and then baste the selvages
together. By so doing you have taken the pri-
mary precaution to obtain a balanced garment,
whereas, if the woof and warp threads are not
true you are inviting the primary cause of ill-
fitting and twisting garments.
A little art, a little care,
Some little changes here and there,
These combine with skillfull thought
And seeming wonders can be wrought.
[54]
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CUTTING THE MATERIAL AND MAKING GARMENTS
After your material has been thoroughly
shrunk you are ready to lay your pattern on it
and cut out the garment. However, I often won-
der how it is possible to cut out garments on
the usual small home table. Just a few pennies
will buy a beaver board that can be placed on
the dining table and used as a cutting table,
then put in the basement for further use.
It is of utmost importance that all materials
be cut on the true woof and warp threads,
(lengthwise and crosswise) so that duplicate
portions of the garment will be exactly alike.
Therefore, to be positively certain of this with
silks, crepes and light weight woolens, pin the
fold and selvage edges on the edge of news-
papers. Also pin the end even with the news-
paper to obtain a true angle.
Commercial patterns have printed illustra-
tions for laying the pattern on the material.
They also have printed arrows or perforations
indicating the straight of the goods. However,
it is advisable to extend these lines the full
length of the pattern, which will make the plac-
ing of the pattern easier. When the material is
laid open and one portion is cut at a time, ex-
ceptional care should be taken so that the woof
and warp threads correspond to the piece al-
ready cut. To avoid mistakes it is preferable
to cut a duplicate of that portion of the pattern
and mark it right side, etc. Just a little differ-
ence will cause a twist in the garment, and is
the primary cause of ill-fitting garments. When
cutting you will also cut all duplicate portions
exactly the same length. If patterns could talk,
oh, how they would scream when they are so
often butchered and cut up. Therefore, to ob-
tain good results, THINK, and pin the pattern
in position on the material correctly. If you are
cutting silk materials or light weight fabrics
cut through both the material and paper.
Thusly, you will have avoided all uncertainty
and you have the primary essential of garment
makingthat the garment has been cut cor-
rectly.
When the garment has been cut out you will
mark all corresponding notches and tailor tack
all marks. If you are using a commercial pat-
tern it is wise to use the direction sheet and
do each step as they indicate.
The back shoulder portion of the garment is
usually cut 14 or % inch longer than the front
portion. This must be eased onto the front to
create the fullness required by the shoulder
blades. Regardless of whether the pattern has
allowed thisdo it anyway. When basting the
first shoulder seam start at the neck, the front
resting on the four fingers. The thumb will then
be on the back portion and it will be easy to
ease in the required fullness. (In sewing, it is
usually said that the thumb steals). If the front
is too long on this shoulder an equal amount
must extend on the other shoulder which is
basted from the armscye to the neck. Please
realize that on no pattern is the back too long,
but frequently the front will be too long and
can be cut off after the garment has been fitted.
When basting the side or under-arm seams
for coats, skirts and dresses place the garment
smoothly on the table with the edges even. Pin
or baste the seams while it is in this position.
Both of the fronts and the backs were cut alike,
therefore, these two seams must also be alike.
If perchance the front is too long on one side,
it must be equally too long on the other side.
Yesterday is past. Begin where you stand. Try and try
constructively good, again and again. Don't quit.E. G.
[55]
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S* *?
2
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3< W C3 o P
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[56]
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SLEEVES AND SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS APPLICABLE
TO ALL MAKES OF PATTERNS
The question often arises in pattern drafting
and also when using commercial patterns how
to measure and be certain of obtaining the
right size of the sleeve for the upper portion
of the arm. The Gurney Self Grading Method
of Pattern Drafting automatically provides for
the right size of the sleeve and armscye (arm-
hole) according to the size of the pattern, but
unfortunately persons with large arms will cut
the armscye larger than it is required with the
results that the sleeves will be uncomfortable.
Secondly, both large and small persons fre-
quently insist upon using a pattern that is too
small, consequently they cannot expect a com-
fortable garment. When driving the automobile
the garment is subjected to sudden and severe
strain, therefore the required ease must be pro-
vided in the garment. As you proceed in this
book you will find various methods of making
sleeves larger or smaller. These methods are
adaptable to all makes of patterns. When draft-
ing sleeves by the Gurney Method you will note
that the dimensions for width, etc., are derived
from the neck measure, as the width of the
sleeve 3 inches from the armhole equals the
circumference of the neck taut under the chin
plus 1Vo inch. For the tight sleeve the width
of the sleeve at the elbow equals the neck
measure minus 1 inch. For the medium tight
sleeve the width at the elbow equals the neck
measurement.
It will thus be noted that the width of the
sleeve minus the seams for Size 16 is 13 inches
and increases % inch for each size larger and
decreases 1/o inch for each size smaller.
Or rules that say "Don't."
We may need a few,
But they never help life
Like the rules that say "Do."
[57]
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DRAFTING SLEEVES
Figure 1. To draft the straight dress sleeve.
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest
to you.
1 inch from the edge of the paper to the right of you
mark A.
A to B is 5 inches for size 16 and increases V4 inch
for each size larger up to and including size 42, and
decreases % inch for each size smaller including
size 12.
B to C is the under arm length and is normally 17%
inches.
D is center of B to C.
B to E is 1% inches.
Draw right angle lines from A, B, C, D, E.
A to AA is 13 inches for size 16 and increases % inch
for each size larger and decreases % inch for each
size smaller.
C to CC equals A to AA. Draw line AA to CC and
mark BB, DD, EE at the intersections.
F is center of A to AA.
FF is center of C to CC. Draw line F to FF marking
00 at the intersection of line D to DD. This line is
the straight of the goods for all types of sleeves.
A to G is 2% inches for size 16 and increases %
inch for each size larger and decreases % inch for
each size smaller.
B to GG equals A to G. Draw line G to GG and mark
J at the intersection of line E to EE.
F to H is 2 inches always.
F to I is 3 inches for sizes 14, 16,, 36, 38; 3% inches
for size 40 and all sizes larger, 3 inches for size
12 and all sizes smaller.
AA to K is 2 inches for size 16 and increases % inch
for each size larger and decreases % inch for each
size smaller.
BB to KK equals AA to K. Draw line K to KK and
mark L at the intersection of line E to EE.
F to M is 2 inches always.
F to N is 3% inches for sizes 14, 16, 36, 38; 3^4
inches for size 40 and all sizes larger; 3 inches for
size 12 and all sizes smaller.
Make short right angle lines from I, H, M, N.
I to O is 1% inches always.
N to O is 1% inches always
H to P is % inch always.
M to P is % inch always.
F to Q (both ways) is % inch always.
J to R is 1% inches always. Draw line R to GG.
GG to S is % inch always.
L to T is 1 % inch always. Draw line T to KK.
KK to U is % inch always.
Draw curved line B to S to J to O to P to Q to F to
Q to P to O to L to U to BB as illustrated.
V is center of C to FF.
W is center of CC to FF.
W to X is % inch.
CC to Y is Vt inch.
C to Z is % inch. Draw lines V to Z and V to X to Y.
Figure 2. To draft the blouse sleeve.
C to 4 is Hi inches.
CC to 5 is 1% inches.
6 is center of 4 to FF.
7 is center of 5 to FF.
7 to 8 is % inch.
Draw line V to 8 to 5.
B to 9 is 3 inches. Draw line 9 to 4 and mark II)
at the intersection, of line D to DD.
BB to 9 is 3 inches. Draw line 9 to 5 and mark 11 at
the intersection of line D to DD.
Coat Sleeve.
The coat sleeve is the same as the straight dress
sleeve with the exception that the sleeve used for
a coat is two sizes larger than for the dress and
the armscye is deepened % inch as B to 3 and
BB to 3.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the sleeves.
Oh, for faith and strength to win
Every battle we begin!
Oh, for patience to put through
Every task we plan to do!
Robert Louis Stevenson.
[58]
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TO DRAFT THE STRAIGHT DRESS OR COAT SLEEVE
c
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CO
53
a
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[59]
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THE TIGHT SLEEVE
Figure 3. To draft the tight sleeve. This is a continu-
ation of the straight dress sleeve.
00 to 12 is 5% inches for size 16 and increases %
inch for each size larger.
00 to 13 equals 00 to 12.
C to 4 is 2 inches for size 16 and increases Vs inch
for each size larger.
Draw lines 9 to 12 and 12 to 4.
4 to 15 is 7% inches for size 16 and increases 1/4 inch
for each size larger.
Draw lines 9 to 13 and 13 through 15.
14 is center of 00 to 13.
Place the square on line 13 to 15 so it touches dot 14
and thus locate dot 16 on line 13 to 15.
Draw line 14 to 16.
12 to 17 (both ways) is 2 inches.
13 to 18 is 2 inches.
16 to 18 is 2 inches.
18 to 19 equals 4 to 17.
The fullness between points 18 and 18 on the back is
eased between points 17 and 17 on the front of the
sleeve.
Figure 4. To draft the medium tight sleeve. This is
also a continuation of the straight dress sleeve.
00 to 10 is 6 inches for size 16 and increases & inch
for each size larger.
00 to 11 equals 00 to 10.
C to 44 is 1% inches for size 16 and increases Vs inch
for each size larger.
Draw lines 9 to 10 and 10 to 44.
44 to 21 is 8V4 inches for size 16 and increases J,i
inch for each size larger.
Draw lines 9 to 11 and 11 through 21.
14 is center of 00 to 11.
Place the square on line 11 to 21 so it touches dot 14
and thus locate dot 5 on line 11 to 21.
10 to 17 (both ways) is 2 inches.
18 to 22 equals 44 to 17.
44 to 20 is 2% inches. Draw line 20 to 22.
11 to 18 and 5 to 18 are each 2 inches.
The fullness between points 18 and 18 of the back is
eased between points 17 and 17 on the front of the
sleeve.
If desired the medium tight sleeve may be made %
inch larger at the wrist as 22 to 23. Draw line 11
to 23.
Jacket Sleeve.
The medium tight sleeve drawn on line 11 to 23 is
used for the one piece jacket sleeve, with the ex-
ception that it is used one size larger than for a
dress. Also the armscye is deepened J/i inch as B
to 2 and BB to 2. Illustrated in Fig. 1, Page 58.
Hidden deep within each heart is a longing
for greatness. A true longing is always prophetic
if actual accomplishment. As within the acorn
dwell the possibilities of the mighty oak; within
the brown bulb the fragrant Easter lily; and
within the gray silken cocoon the exquisitely-
winged butterfly; likewise within you are the
possibilities of greatness, but we must learn to
develop them scientifically.
[60]
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TO DRAFT THE TIGHT SLEEVE
[61]
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THE STRAIGHT COAT SLEEVE MADE TIGHT ON THE WRIST
DD
v,
18
~FoR COAT
< STRAIGHT OF GOODSi
Fot? COAT
.-17
Outline the regular straight coat sleeve.
CC to 15 is the amount the sleeve is desired
to be made smaller and is maximum 3 inches.
Draw line 15 to DD.
Place the square on line DD to 15 so it
touches dot 14 and thus locate dot 16 on line
DD to 15.
16 to 18 is 2 inches.
DD to 18 is 2 inches.
D to 17 (both ways) is 2 inches.
18 to 14 equals 17 to C.
20 is center of C to FF.
Draw line 14 to 20.
The fullness between points 18 and 18 of the
back is eased between points 17 and 17 on the
front.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the pattern.
After all, "a good sport" is one who finds
living itself a good sport.
[62]
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HOW THE GURNEY SLEEVE DIFFERS FROM ALL
OTHER MAKES OF SLEEVE PATTERNS
13
.STRAIGHT Of &OODS-.
You will note that in the drafting of the Gurney
sleeve the lines are drawn straight down from
B and BB three inches as B to 9 and BB to 9.
From points 9 the lines are slanted to the elbow
as 9 to 12 and 9 to 13.
The commercial sleeves are drafted as the lines
from B to 10 to 12 and BB to 10 to 13. There-
fore, you will observe that the Gurney sleeve
provides width for the muscular part of the arm
as the shaded portion illustrates, hence there
will be more comfort for the wearer.
Within yourself is the cause of whatever enters
your lifeto come into realization of your
own awakened powers is to be able to condition
your life in exact accord with what you would
have it.
Ralph Waldo Emerson.
[63]
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THE TWO PIECE JACKET AND COAT SLEEVE
[64]
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TO DRAFT THE TWO PIECE JACKET AND COAT SLEEVE
To draft the two piece jacket sleeve draft the
sleeve pattern one size larger than for a dress,
and for the coat two sizes larger than the coat
pattern. All points are located as for the
straight sleeve.
Deepen the armscye 1/4 inch on both the
front and back as B to X and BB to X for a
jacket. For a coat deepen the armscye 1/k inch
as B to X and BB to X.
Draw curved lines X to J and X to L.
J to 2 is 11/a inches.
C to 3 equals E to 2.
Draw line 2 to 3 and mark 4 at the intersec-
tion of line D to DD and mark 6 at the intersec-
tion of the armscye.
4 to 5 is % inch. Draw lines 5 to 6 and 5 to 3.
BB to 7 equals E to 2.
CC to 8 equals BB to 7. Draw line 7 to 8 and
mark Y at the intersection of line D to DD.
Y to 10 is %. inch. Draw lines 10 to 7 and
10 to 8.
5 to 12 is 2 inches.
13 is center of 10 to 12.
3 to 14 equals 4 to 13.
3 to 15 is the width of the sleeve and is 9%
inches for size 16. This amount increases %
inch for each size larger.
The amount from 15 to 8 is the surplus width
of the sleeve.
14 to 16 is 1/2 of 15 to 8. Draw line 13 through
16.
14 to 17 equals 14 to 16. Draw line 13
through 17.
17 to 18 is % inch.
16 to 19 is % inch.
3 to 20 is 1 inch. Draw line 20 to 19.
Draw line 8 to 18.
7 to 21 equals 10 to 13 less V2 inch.
Draw line 13 through 21 and mark 22 at the
intersection of the sleeve cap.
13 to 23 is 1/4 inch. Draw a slightly curved
line at 23 as illustrated.
Draw line 24 to 24 parallel with line 6 to 3>
which will indicate the straight of the material.
Draw a line from 25 to 25 parallel with line
7 to 8, which will indicate the stra1ght of the
material for the under sleeve.
Make a notch at X on the under sleeve which
will meet the under arm seam of the garment.
*Allow all seams when cutting the garment. It is
advisable to allow 1% inch seams on 22 to 19 and 22:
to 18. This will be sufficient to make the tailored open,
vent or to allow for an outlet if required.
"We owe it to ourselves to believe that the
best and highest things are intended for us."
[65]
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TO ENLARGE THE SLEEVE AT THE TOP FOR
THE LARGE ARM
Figure 3 illustrates a method of enlarging the
sleeve at the top for the large arm but is an
uncertain method.
The other illustration on this page is an easy
and sure method of correctly enlarging the
sleeve at the top.
Outline the sleeve as A, B, 4, 5.
Draw line A to B.
Fold the pattern so A meets B and thus locate
points F and FF. Unfold the pattern and draw
line F to FF and mark O at the intersection of
line A to B.
To make the sleeve 1 inch larger A to C is
1/2 inch. B to C is 1/2 inch.
Cut the pattern on line F to FF.
Hold the pattern at point 4 until point A con-
tacts point C and draw line 4 to C.
Hold the pattern at point C and swing the
upper portion of the sleeve until point F con-
tacts line F to FF as point D. Outline the
sleeve cap as C to E to D.
Hold the pattern at point 5 until point B con-
tacts point C and draw line 5 to C.
Hold the pattern at point C and swing the upper
portion of the sleeve until point F contacts line
F to FF as point D. Outline the sleeve cap as
C to E to D.
The outline of the sleeve cap will now be as the
dotted line from C to E, the solid line from E
to F to E and the dotted line E to C. Cut on
this line.
[66]
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ENLARGING THE SLEEVE FOR THE BIG ARM
0utline the sleeve as A, B, C, D, W.
Draw line A to B.
E is center of A to D.
Draw line E to F parallel with line A to B.
E to J (both ways) is 2 inches.
F to K is 2 inches.
C to L equals D to J.
D to H is 51/<, inches.
B to G is 31/2 inches. Draw line H through G
and mark I at the intersection of the sleeve cap
and X at the intersection of line E to F.
Cut on the line H to I.
Spread the pattern open 1 inch as X to M and
pin the pattern as H to M and I.
The pattern will then be cut as H to CC to 4
to 5 to BB.
Thus the sleeve will be 1 inch larger as the
black space illustrates.
The fullness at the elbow will have increased
as 4 to 5 illustrates. Make notches at K2 and L2
to match notches J and J.
[67]
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THE GURNEY COMFORTABLE SHORT SLEEVE
Tissue paper patterns usually indicate on
the long sleeve pattern where the pattern is to
be cut for the short sleeve. However, to posi-
tively obtain a sure-fit comfortable short sleeve
outline the sleeve on another sheet of paper as
A, B, C, D, E.
Draw line A to C and mark F in the center.
Square a line up from F to the sleeve cap as
Fto E.
F to G is % inch. Draw a line through G
parallel with line A to C.
Hold the pattern at E and swing the pattern
until point C contacts line G as I and outline
as E to I.
Hold the pattern at E and swing the pattern
until point A contacts line G as H and outline
as E to H.
Draw lines H to B and I to D.
NOTE: The sleeve cap F to E was shortened
but the line H to E and I remained the same
length as A to E to C. This method will pro-
duce a comfortable short sleeve that will not
draw across the upper part of the arm or tear.
A DAlLY THOUGHT
A little bit of kindness
To others now and then,
A little bit of blindness
To the faults of other men,
The wish to be forgiving
When things somehow go wrong,
And life is worth the living
And hope is in the song.
[68]
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TO MAKE THE SLEEVE LARGER OR SMALLER AT THE WRIST
0utline the sleeve as A, B, C, D, W.
Draw line A to B.
E is center of A to D. Draw line E to F par-
allel with line A to B.
E to J (both ways) is 2 inches.
F to K is 2 inches.
C to L equals D to J.
L to I is 2 inches. The amount from I to F
is eased in between points J and J.
D to H is 5 Vo inches.
B to G is 3V2 inches. Draw line H to G, mark-
ing X at the intersection of line E to I.
Cut the pattern on lines H to G and X to F.
To make the sleeve 1 inch smaller at the
wrist H to M is 1 inch.
Place letter H on M and the sleeve will appear
as N to F. The notch L will be lowered as L2
illustrates, thus the amount for fullness at the
elbow will have increased. Notches L2 and K
will meet notches J and J when sewing the
sleeve.
To make the sleeve 1 inch wider at the wrist
H to 0 is 1 inch.
Place letter H on letter 0 and the sleeve will
appear as P to F.
Notch L will be higher as L3 illustrates and
the fullness at the elbow will have decreased as
the shaded portion illustrates. Notches L3 and
K will meet notches J and J.
To further increase the width of the sleeve
at the wrist place letter I on F and the sleeve
will then appear as R to F.
N0TE:
changed.
The front seam D to E is never
[69]
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THE SHORT SLEEVE WHICH IS GATHERED AT THE BOTTOM
o
u <
CD
O
(O
6
Figure 8.
Outline the regular sleeve as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Draw line 2 to 4.
A is center of 2 to 4.
A to C is 1/s of A to 2.
D is center of 2 to C.
B to I equals A to C, J is center of 1 to I.
A to E equals A to C, F is center of E to 4.
B to H equals A to E, G is center of H to 5.
Draw line J through D to the sleeve cap.
Draw line I through C to the sleeve cap.
Draw line B through A to 3.
Draw line H through E to the sleeve cap.
Draw line G through F to the sleeve cap.
GREETINGS
QuestionHow do you do!
Answer/ always do just as I please.
QuestionGee! you are lucky- I wish I could.
How do you do it?
Answer/ do the very best I can; that pro-
duces the pleasing exhilaration of having done
the best in me. Thus, justly, doing the best I can
always pleases me, and leaves no regrets.
E.G.
[70]
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FOR GATHERS AT
THE BOTTOM
Figure 9.
Cut the pattern from the bottom of the sleeve
to the sleeve cap as G through F, H through E,
X through A, I through C, and J through D.
0n another sheet of paper draw a line as 3
to B. Place line A to B of the sleeve pattern on
line 3 to B.
Spread the pattern open 11/4 inches as X to
X, H to H, G to G, I to I, and J to J.
0utline the pattern as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and draw
curved line 5 to 1.
FOR GATHERS AT
THE TOP
Figure 9B.
Prepare the sleeve as in Figure 8.
Cut the pattern from the sleeve cap to the
bottom of the sleeve as lines F to G, E to H
3 to B, C to I, and D to J.
0n another sheet of paper draw a line as B
to 3.
Place line A to B on line 3 to B.
Spread the pattern open 1 inch as X to X,
E to E, F to F, C to C, and D to D.
0utline the pattern as 2, 1, B, 5, 4.
3 to 6 is 1/2 inch.
Draw curved line 4 to 6 and 2 to 6.
[71]
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TO DRAFT THE BALLOON
SLEEVE APPLICABLE TO
COATS AND DRESSES
The "balloon" effect may be just above the
wrist on a coat and half way between the elbow
and the armscye for the dress. Also for a dress
it may be located just over the elbow, thus
having a three-quarter length sleeve.
We shall describe the coat sleeve which may
be used as the basis for the dress sleeves.
[72]
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L
FF
, ST/tA/GHT
Of QOOOS7
,10
K
Figure 1.
Outline the regular straight dress sleeve.
Draw line F to FF and B to BB marking X at
the intersection of the lines.
C to D is 6 inches.
CC to DD equals C to D. Draw line D to DD.
FF to O (both ways) is 1/2 of the desired
width of the sleeve.
Draw line B to O and mark G at the inter-
section of line D to DD.
Draw line BB to O and mark H at the inter-
section of the line D to DD.
The sleeve is divided into equal portions as:
2 is center of X to B.
3 is center of X to 2.
4 is center of 2 to B.
5 is center of X to BB.
6 is center of X to 5.
7 is center of 5 to BB.
8 is center of FF to O.
9 is center of 8 to O.
10 is center of FF to 8.
11 is center of FF to O.
12 is center of 11 to 0.
13 is center of FF to 11.
Draw line 9 through 4 and mark I at the
intersection of line D to DD and 15 at the inter-
section of the sleeve cap.
Draw line 8 through 2 and mark J and 16
at the intersections.
Draw line 10 through 3 and mark K and 17
at the intersections.
Draw line 13 through 6 and mark L and 18
at the intersections.
Draw line 11 through 5 and mark M and 19
at the intersections.
Draw line 12 through 7 and mark N and 20
at the intersections.
For the lower portion of the sleeve trace on
lines G to H, H to O and O to G. Also trace all
the division lines and mark them.
Figure 2. For the upper portion of the sleeve
cut the pattern on line G to H. Cut on lines I
to 15, J to 16, K to 17, L to 18, M to 19, N
to 20.
F to W remains the straight of the material.
Spread the pattern open 1!/4 inches at I, J,
K.
Spread the pattern open iy$ inches at L, M,
N.
Pin the pattern to position and it will appear
as Figure 2.
Figure 3. The same method is used for the
lower portion of the sleeve as for the upper
portion.
Cut on the various lines and spread the pat-
tern open 114 inches at I, J, K and 11/2 inches
at L, M, N.
W to FF is the straight of the material.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the garment.
[73]
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TO DRAFT THE BELL SLEEVE
ec
M
FIG.ll
STRAIGHT OF GOOD*
W 0) C
-;3 TZ-t->
O. ea
[74]
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FANCY COAT SLEEVE (Large at Elbow, Small at Wrist)
STRAIGHT OF GOODS
FIG.14
FRONT
TM///////////////////V7V7.
STRAIGHT O GQOD
FIG.13
STRAIGHT OF GOODS
To make the fancy bell coat sleeve that is
large at the elbow and small at the wrist. Use
the desired size coat sleeve pattern and proceed
with the sleeve in the same method as de-
scribed for the dress bell sleeve in Figure 11.
Cut out the pattern, allow % inch for all seams,
cut the sleeve of muslin, baste it in the coat,
and try it on, this will enable you to locate the
seam indicated by the letter Q Figure 13, any
desired place, and also to pin the sleeve as de-
sired from the elbow to the wrist as L to M,
Figure 12, illustrates.
Figure 13, draw the desired seam line as Q
to 2 to 3 to 4, being sure to contact the elbow
point M, make notches at points 2, 3 and 4. Cut
the pattern on this line. The pattern will now
appear as Figures 14 and 15. Allow for seams
as the shaded portion illustrates.
[75]
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TO DRAFT THE BISHOP SLEEVE
The Bishop sleeve may be made from the
two-piece sleeve so that it will be fitted in the
front as illustrated. It may be made as large as
desired.
In this illustration 15 to 15 is 2 inches.
X is center of 15 to 15.
Using X as the pivoting point make an arc
line from 16 to 19.
0n all two piece sleeves points 8 and 5 are
placed on the straight of the material.
[76]
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ADAPTING THE DRESS PATTERN FOR WOOLEN GARMENTS
Woolen materials are more elastic than silk
materials, therefore, it is advisable for woolen
garments to use a pattern one-half to one whole
size smaller than for a silk dress. This applies
to the bust measure only and not to the hip
measure. Therefore to retain the hip measure
and to obtain the correct bust size proceed as
follows:
Outline the back dress pattern the size you
would use for a silk dress as: N, R, B, M, H.
Outline the front dress pattern using the
same size as for the back as: 2, N, Q, B, M, H.
R to X on the back is 14 inch.
B to W is % inch.
Draw curved line X to W and line W to M.
Q to X on the front is 14 inch.
B to W is % inch.
Draw curved line X to W and line W to M.
If you should desire to retain the shoulder
line as for the regular pattern reduce as R to S
and Q to S.
There is great economy in using good ma-
terials, not only for wear or appearance, but
also for the grand joyful satisfaction to your
own self. Why not save on the movies, and
spend it on something that is ever with you?
[77]
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THE COSTUME SLIP
[78]
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TO DRAFT THE COSTUME SLIP
To draft the back:
0utline the dress back as A, B, C, D, E, EE,
DD, 4, BB, 0 and K.
B to 2 is 114 inches. Make a short right
angle line from 2.
B to 3 is 114, inches.
2 to 4 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 3 to 4.
4 to 5 is % inch.
BB to 6 is 2 inches.
6 to 7 is 1/2 inch. Draw lines 5 to 7 and 7 to 4
at the waistline.
The bottom of the slip is made 1 inch wider
than the dress as EE to X. Draw line DD to X.
To draft the front:
0utline the dress front as L, BB, C, D, 13,
E, DD, 4, 12, 0, F.
12 to W equals the size of the dart 8 to 9.
W to N is 2 inches.
N to 13 is 1/2 inch. Draw line 13 to 9.
9 to 14 equals 8 to 9. Draw line 9 to 4.
Extend the dart 1 inch as 11 to H.
Draw line 14 to H. The dart will now be
twice the size of the original dart and may be
divided into two small darts if desired.
BB to 15 is 1 inch. Make a short right angle
line from 15.
BB to 16 is 1 inch.
15 to 17 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 16 to 17.
17 to 18 is 1 inch.
Draw line 18 to 13.
The slip is made 1 inch w1der at the bottom
than the dress as E to X is 1 inch. Draw line
DD to X.
All in the dark we grope along,
And if we go amiss
We learn at least which path is wrong,
And there is gain in this.
We do not always win the race
By only running right,
We have to tread the mountain's base
Before we reach its height.
But she who loves herself at last
And knows the use of pain,
Though strewn with errors all her past,
She surely shall attain.
Some souls there are that needs must taste
Of wrong, ere choosing right;
We should not call those years to waste
Which led us to the light.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox.
[79]
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[80]
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TO DRAFT THE KIMONA DRESS
To draft the back:
0utline the dress back as: A, B, C, D, E, 9, 11,
2, 5, 4.
11 to 14 is % inch.
2 to 15 is 1Vi inches.
15 to 16 is 11/o inches. Draw line 15 to 16.
15 to 17 (both ways) is % inch. Draw curved
line 17 to 17.
Draw a line from 16 parallel with the center
back as 16 to 13.
Draw line 9 through 14 and mark 18 at the in-
tersection of line 16 to 13.
If desired the shoulder length may be made
shorter as the dotted line 16 to 19.
To draft the front:
0utline the front as: K, N, T, 5, 4 and the dart
YtoZ.
N to 14 is % inch.
Draw line K through 14.
K to 15 equals 9 to 18 of the back.
T to 2 is 11/2 inches.
2 to 16 is 11/2 inches. Draw line 2 to 16.
Draw line 15 to 16.
2 to 17 (both ways) is % inch. Draw curved line
17 to 17.
If the back is shortened as 16 to 19 the front
must be shortened also as 16 to 19.
The dart may be made 1 inch lower on the side
as Z to 7 to 8.
When sewing the under arm curve stitch a bias
fold in the seam from 1 inch below 17 to 16.
A kindly deed
Is a little seed,
That groweth all unseen;
And lo, when none
Do look thereon,
Anew it springeth green.
A friendly look
Is a better book
For precept, than you'll find
'Mong the sages wise
Or the libraries,
With their priceless wealth of mind.
The little dole
Of a humble soul,
In all sincereness given,
Is like the wings
Of the lark, as it springs,
Singing clear to the gate of heaven.
Alexander H. Japp.
[81]
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TO DRAFT PETER PAN COLLARS
Collar number 1 (round neckline)
Outline the regular dress back as: B, N, R, D.
R to S is 1 inch. Draw line N to S.
Place the front shoulder line on the line N
to S and outline the front as Q, 2, X, B.
B to 3 is 3 inches.
2 to 4 is S1/o inches.
4 to 5 is 1 inch.
Draw line 2 to 5.
2 to W is 2 inches.
2 to 6 is % inch. Draw curved line 6 to W
.as illustrated.
N to 7 is 3 inches.
8 is center of N to B.
9 is center of 3 to 7.
8 to 9 equals B to 3.
W to Y equals N to 7 plus 14 inch.
Draw curved line 3, 9, 7, Y, 5.
The outline of the collar is: B, 8, N, Z, W,
6, 5, Y, 7, 9, 3.
Collar number 2 ("V"-shaped neck line)
2 to 10 is the desired opening for the dress
and is normally 5 inches.
N to Z is 1 inch. Draw line 10 to Z.
10 to 11 is 3 inches.
11 to 12 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 10 to 12.
B to 13 is the desired depth of the collar and
is normally 31/2 inches.
Draw a right angle line from 13.
N to 14 equals B to 13. Draw a line from 12
through 14 until it intersects line 13 and mark
this point 15.
15 to 0 equals 14 to 15.
Draw curved line 0 to 14.
16 is center of 12 to 14.
16 to 17 is 14 inch. Draw line 12 to 17 to 14.
10 to 18 is 2 inches.
10 to 19 is % inch. Draw line 18 to 19.
The outline of the collar is: B, 8, N, Z, 18,
19, 12, 17, 14, O, 13.
Sailor Collar
Draft the sailor collar as the dotted line illus-
trates.
[82]
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MAXIMUM ROLL COLLAR
COLLAR
No. 3
J ROLL COLLARS K
N..3, MAXIMUM ROLL COLLAR
Collar number three is the most widely used
roll collar and to draft it separately from the
other roll collars proceed as follows:
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to
you draw a line.
G to B is 2 inches.
B to C is 31/2 inches.
C to D is 14 inch.
Make a right angle line from G 15 inches
long.
Make a right angle line from B 3 inches long.
Make a right angle line from C 3 inches long.
G to X is 2% inches.
C to J equals G to X. Draw line J to X and
mark K at the intersection.
G to 0 is the length of the dress opening and
is usually 111/2 inches.
Draw line K to 0.
0 to Q is 21/2 inches.
0 to P is % inch. Draw line P to Q.
0 to R is 3 V& inches.
Square a line out from R. R to S is 3 inches.
Draw line P to S.
J to L is 14 inch. Draw line D to L.
J to T is 11/4 inches. Draw curved line L to T.
Draw line S to T and mark U in the center.
U to V is 14 inch.
Draw lines S to V and T to V.
/ wish, I can, 1 will these are the three
trumpet notes to victory.
[83]
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THE GURNEY METHOD OF SURE-FIT COLLAR DRAFTING
Collar number 1 is the Peter Pan collar and
will lay flat all around the neck.
Collar number 2 is the Peter Pan collar for the
"V"-shaped neckline and will also lay flat
around the neck.
Collar number 3 is the maximum roll collar and
will roll 11/2 inch at the back.
Collar number 4 is the medium roll collar and
will roll 1 inch at the back.
Collar number 5 is the mimimum roll collar and
will roll only 1/2 inch at the back.
Collar number 6 is the shirt waist collar and
will roll about 11/2 inches at the back.
The minimum opening for a dress is 23
inches. This may be obtained by having a neck-
line which fits close to the neck with an open-
ing down the center front or back, or by having
a "V" or "boat" shaped neckline.
The methods of drafting the roll collars num-
bers 3, 4, and 5 are so closely co-related that
they are most easily understood by being drawn
on one draft as illustrated. You will note from
this draft that the collar will lay flat when the
shape of the neckline is retained, but the more
the neckline is straightened the more the collar
will roll in the back.
To draft collars number 3, 4, and 5 we first
draw the basic lines as follows:
A to B is 6 inches.
B to C is 31/2 inches.
C to D is 114, inches.
Draw right angle lines from A to E and B
to F, 15 inches in length.
Draw a right angle line from C about 5
inches long.
Draw line E to F.
A to I is 2%, inches.
C to J is 2% inches. Draw line I to J mark-
ing K at the intersection of line B to F.
B to M is 1/2 of the neckline and is normally
111/2 inches. Pivoting at K make an arc line as
M to N. To do this insert the pencil through
the tape line, place the pencil on dot M and
hold the tape firmly at K and draw the arc.
To draft collar number 3:
F to G is 2 inches.
Draw a line from G parallel with line F to
M, until it intersects the arc line. Mark this
point 0.
Draw line K to 0.
0 to P is % inch.
0 to Q is 21/2 inches. Draw line Q to P.
0 to R is 31/2 inches.
Make a right angle line from R to S 3 inches
in length.
Draw line P to S.
C to T is 4 inches. Draw line S to T and mark
U in the center.
U to V is 14 inch. Draw line S to V and V to
T.
C to D is 14 inch. Draw a slightly curved line
D to T.
The outline of the collar is: D, L, T, V, S,
P, Q, K, B.
To draft collar number 4:
G to H is 2 inches. Draw a line from H paral-
lel with line C to 0 until it intersects the arc
line. Mark this point 2.
Draw line K to 2.
2 to 3 is % inch.
2 to 4 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 3 to 4.
2 to 5 is 31/2 inches.
Make a right angle line from 5 to 6 two
inches long.
Draw line 3 to 6.
Draw line 6 to T and mark 7 in the center.
7 to 8 is 14 inch. Draw lines 6 to 8 and
8 to T.
The outline of the collar is: D, L, T, 8, 6, 3,
4, K, B.
To draft collar number 5:
Draw line K to N.
N to 9 is % inch.
N to 10 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 9 to 10.
N to 11 is 31/2 inches.
Make a right angle line from 11 to 12 11/2
inches long.
Draw line 9 to 12.
Draw line 12 to T and mark 13 in the center.
13 to 14 is 14 inch. Draw lines 12 to 14 and
14 to T.
T to 15 and T to 16 are each 1 inch. Make a
slight curve as 15 to 16.
Make a slight curve at K as illustrated.
The outline of the collar is: D, L, 16, 15, 14,
12, 9, 10, K, B.
To draft collar number 6 (Shirt waist collar):
A to 17 is 1/>, % maximum 1 inch.
17 to 18 is 314 inches.
I to 19 is 1 inch.
19 to 20 is 31/8 inches.
A to 21 is 1/2 of the total neck measure taken
at the base of the neck.
Draw line 17 to 19 and 19 to 21.
21 to 22 is 4 inches.
Make a right angle line from 22 to 23, 4
inches long.
Draw line 21 to 23.
Make a right angle line from 21 to 24, 31/2
inches long.
Draw lines 23 to 24, 24 to 20 and curved line
20 to 18.
21 to 25 is 14 inch.
21 to 26 is 21/> inches.
Draw line 25 to 26.
The outline of the collar is: 18, 20, 24, 23,
25, 26, 19, 17.
[84]
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ROLL COLLARS
COLLAR
No. 3
ROLL COLLARS K
No.3. MAXIMUM ROLL COLLAR
K>.4. MEDIUM ROLL COLLAR
N 5. MINIMUM ROLL COLLAR
No.6. SHIRT WAIST COLLAR
[85]
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TO DRAFT THE SHIRT WAIST
To draft the front.
Outline the regular dress pattern as A, N, Q,
B, M.
A straight line drawn parallel with the cen-
ter of the front as B to M3 will provide the
ordinary shirt waist.
If the shirt waist is desired very loose and
the shoulder longer add 1/4 inches as Q to Q2
and V2 inch as B to B2 and M3 to E. Equally
so on the back.
If you desire the shirt waist fitted make the
usual dart as V to V and cut the pattern on
line B to M. However, it is usually not desired
quite so fitted so we cut the pattern as X to Y
and reduce the dart.
Line A is the center front.
Line B is the edge of the garment.
A to B is % inch.
B to C is 11/4 inches.
C to D is 11/4 inches.
To draft the back.
Outline the regular dress back as A, N, R, D,
M.
A straight line drawn parallel with the cen-
ter of the back as D to E will provide the ordi-
nary shirt waist, if desired, more fitted, reduce
at the waist line as desired.
If the garment is desired very loose add 1/
inch as D to D2 of the back, and B2 to E of the
front; if so, a like amount must be added at
the sleeve.
Gathers or pin tucks may be made in the cen-
ter of the back and on the shoulders in the
front as explained on pages 36, 46, and 47.
Any desired style of sleeve may be used with
the shirt waist pattern.
The shirt waist collar is described on page 94.
To make the shirt waist front.
Make a small button loop and place it as let-
ter B illustrates.
Make the collar and sew the shoulder seams
together. Baste the collar to position so the
edge of the collar is at the center front as let-
ter A.
To make the front pleat, see inset 3.
Make a fold on line C to C with the wrong
sides together so that line D to D will meet
line B to B.
Fold on line B to B with the right sides to-
gether so the edge of the fold is over the collar.
Place a small strip of bias to position as let-
ter E.
Stitch all around the collar with a 1/4 inch
seam. Clip the seam in several places so the
collar will lay smoothly. Turn the bias and the
pleat to the inside of the garment.
Fell the bias to position.
The collar and the edge of the pleat may be
hand stitched as illustrated in Figure 4.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the garment.
There is only one way to be happy and that
is to make somebody else so.
Sidney Smith.
[86]
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THE SHIRT WAIST
[87]
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THE TRANSPOSING OF DARTS
Letters 2, N, Q, B, V, W, V2, M, EE, illus-
trate the outline of the regular dress pattern.
Square a line from the center front as W2
to W, Y is center of W2 to W.
Darts are made in the front of the garment
to create fullness over the bust. The dress dart
number 2 in Figure 1 is the usual type of dart
on the under arm seam and extends a maxi-
mum % inch beyond the armscye as illustrated
by letter X.
Darts may be made any place desired as
shown in Figure 1, but they must always point
to the fullest part of the bust as illustrated by
letter Y in the center of line W to W2. How-
ever, fashion now demands that this point be
nearer the center front as letter Z. W2 to Z
is 3V8 inches for size 16 and increases 1/8 inch
for each size larger. You will also note in
Figure 1 that the size of the dart is governed
by its length. All darts located the same dis-
tance from the center point Y as the under
arm dart will equal it in size as shown by the
circle. However, darts number 6, 3, 7 and 5
illustrate that the size of the dart increases
in proportion to the increase in length.
Figure 2 illustrates the transposing of the
under arm dart to the center front. To pro-
vide material for gathers at the center front
as the picture illustrates.
Square a line from the center front to W as
W2 to W.
Y is center of W to W2.
Draw lines V to Y and V2 to Y.
Cut on lines W2 to Y and Y to V. Place V
on V2 so Y remains as located and the center
front dart will be as W2 to Y to W3.
Cut the garment as the dotted lines illustrate
and gather in the fullness on the center front
like the inserted picture. More gathers may be
added if desired.
[88]
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TRANSPOSING OF DARTS
Figure 5 illustrates method to provide the
required material for gathers at the shoulder
seam. Make a right-angle line from the center
front as W2 to W. Y is center of W2 to W.
Draw a line parallel with the center front as
Y to NN. Cut the pattern on this line. Make
a fold in the pattern on line V to Y and fold
it so it contacts dotted line V2 to Z. Pin it in
position. The pattern will now appear as dotted
line 4, QQ and BB illustrates. NN to 5 is %
inch. Draw a curve line from N to 5 to 4 as
illustrated. The amount from 4 to 5 is to be
gathered to the back, if more gathers are de-
sired, cut the pattern from Y to 8 and spread
the pattern open 14 to 1/2 inch at Y gradually
from 8 to Y. Thus, the amount from 5 to 6 will
be increased. When making the garment the
shoulder back is eased 14 inch onto material
i/2 inch wide cut on the straight of the goods.
The gathering is 11/2 inch from N and 2 inches
from QQ.
Figure 6 illustrates the transposing of the
under arm seam to the armscye to provide
material for gathers as the picture illustrates.
Square a line from the center front to W as
W2 to W.
Y is center of W to W2.
5 is center of the armscye.
5 to 3 is 3 inches. 3 is 1/2 inch lower than 5.
Draw lines 5 to 3 and 3 to Y. Cut on lines 5
to 3, 3 to Y and Y to V.
Place V on V2. The pattern will spread as
3 to 32 and 5 to 52, the amount from 3 to
32 being the amount to be gathered in on line
3 to 5. If more gathers are desired cut the pat-
tern on line Y to 8 and spread the pattern open
as desired.
[89]
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TRANSPOSING OF DARTS
FlG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 8
Figure 7 illustrates the transposing of the
under arm dart to form gathers at the end of
a V-shaped neckline.
Square a line from the center front to W as
W2 to W.
Y is center of W to W2.
Make a new dart 2 inches above the old dart
as W to 5.
Draw a line parallel with W to Y as 5 to Y2.
5 to 4 and 5 to 3 are each equal to W to V.
2 to 6 is 5 inches. Draw lines N to 6 and
6 to Y2.
Cut the pattern on lines N to 6, 6 to Y2 and
Y2 to 3.
Place point 3 on dot 4 and the pattern will
spread open as 6 to Y2 to 7.
Extend the line Y2 to 7 to meet the center
front line as point 8 illustrates.
Thus, the amount from 6 to 8 will be used
as tucks or gathers.
Figure 8 illustrates the transposing of the
under arm dart to the neckline to provide
gathers or tucks as Figures 8 illustrate.
Square a line from the center front to W
as W2 to W.
Y is center of W to W2.
Deepen the neck curve as 2 to 3 is 11/2 inches,
N to 4 is 1/o inch. Cut on line 3 to 4.
5 to 6 is 11/2 inches, 6 to 7 is \\'o inches, 7
to 8 is 11/2 inches.
Draw lines 5 to Y, 6 to Y, 7 to Y, 8 to Y and
then cut on these lines and line Y to V.
Place V on V2 and divide the amount of the
spread equally among the four cut lines, this
being the amount for each tuck, pleat, etc.
The amount of fullness may also be gathered in.
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TRANSPOSING OF DARTS
Figure 9 illustrates the transposing of the
dart to create fullness at the waistline or to
make two parts as the picture illustrates.
Square a line from the center front to W
as W2 to W.
Y is center of W to W2.
Square a line down from Y as Y to 3. Cut
on lines Y to 3 and Y to V.
Place V on V2 an dthe new dart is as 3 to
Y to 32.
The amount from 3 to 32 may be used as
tucks, gathers, darts, etc.
The dart may also be located on the under-
arm seam on a slanting line as 4 to Y.
Cut on the lines 4 to Y and Y to V. Place
V on V2 and the new dart will be as 4 to Y to
42.
Figure 10 illustrates the "choker" neckline.
Transpose the under arm dart to the center
front as illustrated in Figure 2, page 88.
The pattern will then appear as W3 to N2 as
the dotted lines illustrate.
Extend the center front line up.
Make a right angle line from the center front
line to N2 as C to N2.
C to D is %. inch. Draw curved line N2 to D.
The outline of the pattern is as B2 to Q2 to
N2 to D. The opening for this type of dress is
at the back.
[91]
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TRANSPOSING OF DARTS
Figure 11 illustrates the shoulder line dropped
forward with fullness on the blouse.
Transpose the shoulder line as N to NN and
Q to QQ 2 inches. Draw line NN to QQ. X is
center of NN to QQ.
Draw line X to Y and cut on this line and
line Y to V.
Place V on V2 and the new dart to be used
for tucks or gathers is as X to Y to X2.
X to 3 and X 2 to 4 are each 1/2 inch. Draw
curved line as illustrated.
"Blest be the tongue that speaks no ill,
Whose words are always true,
That keeps 'the law of kindness' still
Whatever others do."
"Blest be the hands that toil to aid
The great world's ceaseless need
The hands that never are afraid,
To do a kindly deed."
[92]
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TO DRAFT THE ETON JACKET (BOLERO)
To draft the back.
0utline the regular dress back as: A, D, E,
M, DD, R, N.
Draw line D to DD.
2 is center of N to R.
E to 3 is 31/2 inches.
Draw line 2 to 3 and mark 4 at the intersec-
tion of line D to DD.
4 to 5 is 31/, inches.
2 to 6 is 3 inches.
3 to 7 is 1 inch. Draw line 5 to 1.
Cut the pattern on line 2 to 5 to 7.
Place point 1 on dot 3, thus a small dart will
be formed on the shoulder as 2 to 6 to 8.
The pattern will now be as the dotted line
N, 2, 8, 9, 10, 11, E, D, A.
To draft the front.
0utline the regular dress front as letters 2,
EE, N, Q, B, V, W, X, M. For the Eton Jacket
the underarm seam dart is transposed to the
shoulder seam. To transpose the dart, make a
right-angle line from the center front line as
W2 to W. W2 to Z is 31/8 inches for size 16
plus V8 mcn for each size larger. N to NN is
11/4 inches. Draw line NN to Z. (The width of
the dart may be increased 1/4 inch at W to X.)
Draw lines X to Z and V to Z. Cut the pattern
on line NN to Z. Make a fold in the pattern
from line V to Z and fold it over so the fold
will contact with line X to Z. Pin it in this
position. The pattern will now appear as dotted
line Z to N3, Q2, B2. The dart is sewed to 1'/o
inch above Z as Z2 illustrates.
Allow % inch seams
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TO DRAFT THE PLAIN COAT
The usual dress patterns as described on
pages 37-39 are used to draft the coat patterns.
However, if the individual has larger hips or
high shoulders, etc., as explained in the chapter
of adapting patterns to individual measures and
requirements, page 40, the same changes should
naturally be made on both portions, the front
and the back, as described in said chapter before
drafting the coat pattern.
To draft the back:
Outline the regular dress pattern as B to D,
D to E, E to F, F to G, B to N, N to R, R to DD,
DD to M, M to H, and H to J. For coats the
armscye is made 1 inch deeper than for the
dress as DD to 8. Draw a curved line from 8 to
5 as illustrated. At the hip line, coats are made
1Vo inches larger than for the dress. Thus, H to
H2 is % inch, equalling 1/4 of 11/2 inches. J to J2
equals H to H2. Draw a line H2 to 32. M to 1 is
1 inch. Draw a curved line 1 to H2. Draw a line
1 to 8. This completes the back and produces a
garment that is slightly fitted at the waist. If it
is desired to have the coat less fitted at the
waist, E to EE equals D to DD. Draw a line 8 to
EE and EE to H2 as illustrated. This method
will produce a garment large enough. When cut-
ting the pattern, allow % inch for seams. If it is
desired to have the coat very loose, 1/2 inch may
be added on the pattern from 8 to J2. If so, a
like amount must be added on the sleeve seam.
The majority of coats have small darts on
the shoulder seam in the back, which are espe-
cially advantageous to people with prominent
shoulder blades. To make the dart proceed as
follows:
2 is center of N to R.
2 to 3 is 31/2 inches.
R to 4 is 3 inches.
4 to 5 is 1/2 inch.
Cut the pattern on line 2 to 3 and make a
fold so that point 4 meets point 5. The amount
from 2 to 6 indicates the size of the dart. When
cutting the garment cut as lines 6 to 7 and 7
to 5, the shoulder dart being as 6 to 3 to 2.
(Continued on Next Page)
The man who trusts men will make fewer mis-
takes than he who distrusts them.Cavour.
[94]
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TO DRAFT THE PLAIN COAT
THINK
Man is born with his hands clenched.
He dies with his hands wide open.
Entering life, he desires to grasp
everything. Leaving the world all
that he possessed has slipped away.
IU
REMEMBER
What you give you hate
What you spent you had
What you keep you lose.
[95]
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TO DRAFT THE PLAIN COATContinued
To draft the front:
Outline the regular dress front pattern as let-
ters 2 to G, 2 to N, N to Q, Q to B, B to V, V to
V2, V2 to M, M to H, H to J. W is center of V to
V2. The underarm seam dart is transposed to
the shoulder seam to transpose the dart, draw a
right angle line from the center front line as
W2 to W. W2 to Z is 3V8 inch for size 16, 34
bust, 37 hip, plus % mch for each size larger.
N to NN is 114 inch always. Draw a line NN to
Z. Cut the pattern on this line from NN to Z.
For all coats, the dart is made 14 inch larger
than for the dress as V2 to X. Draw a line from
V to Z and X to Z. We now make a fold in the
pattern from V to Z and pin this fold so it con-
tacts the line from X to Z. Pin it to this posi-
tion. When thus folded, the pattern will be
spread open at the shoulder seam and appear as
the dotted line Z to N3 to Q2 and B2 illustrates.
For coats, the armscye is made 1 inch deeper
as B2 to 10. Draw a curved line 10 to 11 as illus-
trated. M to I is 1 inch. Draw a line from 10 to
I, H to H2 is the same as H to H2 of the back,
at the bottom J to J2 is the same as J to J2 of
the back. Draw a line H2 to J2 and 1 to H2. If
the garment is desired less fitted add at 1 to E
the same as 1 to E of the back and draw a line
from 10 to E to H2. For the front lap of the
coat 2 to 4 is 3 inches, G to 5 is the same. Draw
a line 4 to 5. For the summer coat, which does
not require so much lap, 2 to 4 is 11/2 inches, G
to 5 is the same amount. 2 to 3 is 1/4 inch, 4 to 6
is 114 inch. Draw a line 6 through 3. Draw a
curved line N to 3. For a straight coat it is pre-
ferable to cut the facing on the front. Thus,
there will be no seam. To cut the facing fold the
pattern on the line from 4 to 5, NN to 8 is %
inch, 5 to 9 is 5 inches. Draw a line from 8 to
9 as illustrated. Make a tracing on line 8 to 9.
We now cut a pattern all around and allow %
inch for seams. Open the fold on line 4 to 5. Cut
the facing on the traced line. The facing will
now appear as 6 to N, N to 82, 82 to 92. The col-
lar of the straight coat is cut on the crosswise
of the material and is 214 inches wide f1nished.
It is preferable to cut the collar on the double.
Thus there will be no seam. This completes the
coat draft. If the coat is desired very loose, 1/2
inch may be added on the pattern from 10 to J2.
If so a like amount must be added on the sleeve
seams. The dart is sewed to 11/2 inches above
2 as Z2 illustrates.
The Coat Sleeve
For the coat sleeve use a sleeve pattern 2
sizes larger than the dress pattern, as for size
36 coat, use a size 40 sleeve, etc., for all sizes.
KINDNESS
When a kind word comes
from the depths of the heart
The shadows lift and the clouds
departlt's a wonderful
thing but it's always true
That our own heart gains
by the good we do.
[96]
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[97]
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PRESSING AND REMOVING SHINE
When making a garment of hard twisted ma-
terial pressing will cause the material to shine.
There is no harm in this and in tailoring we
frequently press on the right side of the mate-
rial, with a cloth on it, to obtain the required
amount of pressing.
When pressing all woolen materials the seams
are slightly dampened with a small sponge.
To remove the shine caused by pressing use a
starchless cloth as a piece of an old sheet, etc.
Wet it thoroughly and wring it out by hand as
dry as possible. Place this damp cloth on the
garment. Have a very hot iron ready, just touch
the wet cloth lightly with the iron and the
steam will remove the shine. It is impossible
to remove shine from wear, however. The gar-
ment may be freshened by dry cleaning.
Let me todaydo something that shall take
A little sadness from the world's vast store,
And may I be so favored as to make
Of joy's too scanty sum a little more.
Let me not hurt, by any selfish deed
Or thoughtless work, the heart of foe or
friend;
Nor would I pass, unseeing, worthy need,
Or sin by silence when I should defend.
However meager be my worldly wealth
Let me give something that shall aid my kind,
A word of courage, or a thought of health,
Dropped as I pass for troubled hearts to find.
Let me tonight look back across the span
'Twixt dawn and dark, and to my conscience
say
Because of some good act to beast or man
"The world is better that I lived today."
E. W. W.
[98]
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TO ENLARGE A COAT PATTERN OVER THE BUST
For a large bust it is frequently necessary to
enlarge the coat pattern over the bust portion
only and not over the hips. To do so, use the
regular plain coat pattern, page 96, to outline
the complete pattern as 2 to 5, 2 to N, N to 7,
7 to Z, 72 to Z, 72 to Q, Q to B, B to M, and M
to H, as illustrated with the solid line. To en-
large the pattern 1/o, inch over the bust, 2 to 22
is 1/2 inch, 5 to 55 is the same. We now place
the center front line of the pattern on dots 22
and 55. When in this position make new lines as
the dotted lines illustrate from 73 to Z2, 73 to
Q2, Q2 to B2, B2 to M2, and H2. See dotted
lines. Z3 is center of Z to Z2. Draw lines from
7 to Z3, and 73 to Z3. Thus, the dart in the
shoulder will be increased Vo inch and the pat-
tern will be 1/2 inch larger over the bust. If the
pattern is to be made 1 inch larger over the
bust, 2 to 22 and 5 to 55 is 1 inch. Then proceed
the same as before. If the pattern for a still
larger bust must be made 11/, inch larger, add
1/o inch on the front line as 2 to X and 5 to X
illustrates. Then a dart, total % inch, is made
under the lapel as letter 0 illustrates. We now
reduce the underarm seam to the hip line as B2
to H illustrates. It is obvious that the front
edge of the coat pattern may be used to enlarge
the pattern.
Loving words cost but little,
Journeying up the hill of life;
But they make the meek and weary
Stronger, braver, for the strife.
Do you count them only trifles?
What to earth are sun and rain?
Never was a kind word wasted;
Never was one said in vain.
.'
[99]
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TO DRAFT THE JACKET
To draft the jacket pattern use the regular
dress pattern one size smaller than you use for
a dress as: for a size 36 jacket use a size 16
dress pattern, etc.
To draft the back:
0utline the back pattern as: B, C, D, E, F,
N, R, T, DD, M, H.
B to G is the desired length of the jacket.
Make right-angle lines from C, D, E, F, G.
M to M2 is % inches. H to H2 is 1/2 inch.
Draw lines DD to M2 and M2 to H2.
2 is center of C to T.
E to 3 equals C to 2 less Vo inch.
F to 4 equals E to 3 plus % inch. Draw a
line from 3 through 4.
Draw a line from 3 through 2 and mark 5
at the intersection of the shoulder line and 6
at the intersection of line D to DD.
6 to 7 is 3 inches.
3 to 8 is 1 inch maximum 11/4 inches. Draw
lines 7 to 8 and 8 through 4.
5 to 9 is y inch.
5 to 10 is 21/ inches. Draw curved line 9
to 10.
9 to 11 is 3/8 inch.
5 to 12 is 31/4 inches. Draw curved line 11
to 12.
R to 13 is % inch. Draw line 11 through 13.
13 to 14 is 1/4 inch. Draw a curved line from
14 to 1/2 inch below T.
The armscye of a jacket is 1/, inch deeper
than for a dress as DD to D2.
This completes the back.
To draft the front:
0utline the regular dress front as letters 2,
EE, FF, N, Q, B, V, W,V2,M,H. For the jacket,
the under arm seam dart is transposed to the
shoulder seam. To transpose the dart, make a
right-angle line from the center front line as
W2 to W, W2 to Z is 3% inches for size 16, plus
I/K inch for each size larger. N to 5 is 11/4 inch,
draw line 5 to Z, N to 9 equals N to 9 of the
back, 5 to 5A is 3 inches, draw curved line 9 to
5A. For jackets the width of the dart increases
1/4 inch as V2 to X. Draw lines V to Z and X to
Z. Cut the pattern on line 9 to Z. Make a fold in
the pattern on line V to Z and fold it over so the
fold will contact with line X to Z. Pin it in this
position. The pattern will now appear as dotted
lines Z to 9A, Q2, B2 to X. The armscye is deep-
ened 14 inch as B2 to B3 illustrates. The button-
ing lap is 11/2 inches as EE to E2. Draw a line
parallel with the center front as E2 to F2. The
dart is sewed to 11/2 inches above Z as Z2 illus-
trates.
To Draft the Lapel:
2 to 3 is % inch. Draw a line from 3 to the
neck curve as illustrated.
Make a right angle line from 3 to 33 is 2%
inches.
Square up from 33 to 34 2% inches. Draw a
line from 34 to 3.
34 to 35 is 1/4 inch. Draw a line from 33 to
the desired opening 11.
36 is center of 33 to 11.
36 to 37 is % inch. Draw a curved line from
35 to 33 to 37 to 11 as illustrated.
N to 10 is 1 inch for the lapel crease.
Draw a line from 11 through 10 and mark
12 at the intersection of the neck curve.
Jacket collar.
10 to 13 is the length of the back neck curve
plus 1/2 inch.
13 to 14 is % inch.
14 to 15 is 11/4 inches.
N to 16 is 1/4 inch.
Draw a line from 14 to 10 and from 15 to 16.
12 to 18 is % inch. Draw a curved line from
16 to 18.
14 to 16 is 2 inches.
3 to 20 is 21/4 inches. Draw line 16 to 20.
For emergency extend the collar as the dot-
ted line 21 to 22 illustrates.
The same collar pattern may be used for all
sizes by adding at the back 1/4 inch for each
size larger as 15 to X and 16 to X.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the pattern.
It is advisable to allow on the under-arm
seam both front and back % inch for emer-
gency outlet, also before cutting the material I
recommend that a muslin lining is cut to pre-fit
the garment and observe the fitting before cut-
ting the material.
[100]
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TO DRAFT THE JACKET PATTERN
Silence, or neglect,
Dissolves love
And many friendships.
[101]
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TO DRAFT A JACKET PATTERN WITH A SEAM IN THE
CENTER OF THE BACK
To draft a jacket pattern with a seam in the
center of the back.
Personally, I prefer the jacket back as illus-
trated on pages 100, 101, because this will make
the back appear longer and narrower. However,
for striped material the back with a seam in the
middle of the center back is preferable.
At sight this method may appear to be com-
plicated, but if you follow instructions and com-
plete each step by step, it will after the first
practice prove to be very simple and you may
be certain of good results. It is also advisable to
make patterns of all sizes ready for use.
For jacket drafting a pattern one size smaller
than a dress pattern is used. As for size 38 use
size 36 dress pattern and for size 36 use 16 pat-
tern. 0utline the pattern as in Figure 1, letters
B, D, E, F, G, R, DD, M, H, J. B to E is the
waist line, letter G is the total length. C is cen-
ter of B to D. S is center of C to D. Make right
angle lines from dots C, S, D, E, F, G. At the in-
tersection of the armscye line mark T and S.
M to I is V2 inch. Draw a line DD to I and I
to H.
There are many jackets made of striped ma-
terial on which the stripes do not appear in
good taste, to avoid this, proceed as C to 2 is
3 inches. E to 3 is the same. D to 4 equals C to
T, E to 5 equals D to 4 plus Va inch. Draw line
4 through 5 and 2 through 3. These lines indi-
cate the straight of the material. 6 is center of
N to R. E to 7 is 4 inches. Draw line 6 through
7 the full length. At the intersection mark dots
8, 9, D3, 7, 10 and V. IMP0RTANT: Be sure to
mark these dot letters as illustrated on both
sides of the line. E to K is 1 inch, maximum
11/4 inch. F to L equals E to K less % inch.
Draw line B to K and K to L. We now cut the
pattern on the line B to K to L and all around
the pattern the full length. Then cut the pat-
tern on the line 6 through V the total lengh.
Figure 2.
0n another paper place portion No. 2 and out-
line all around as 11, 8, D3, 7, V, R, S, DD, I, H,
J. Also draw line 4 through 5 indicating straight
of goods. Dot 9 is % inch from dot 8. Dot 10 is
.14 inch from dot 7. Now place portion No. 1 to
position so that dot No. 9 touches dot 9 and so
that dot 10 touches dot 10 while in this position,
outline all around as 12 to 9, 9 to 10, 10 to W,
12 to N, N to B, B to K and K to L. Also, be-
fore removing this position of the pattern, draw
line 2 through 3 indicating straight of goods.
The amount between 11 and 12 is taken up in
the dart. 12 to 13 is 21/2 inches. Connect 11 with
13. It is obvious that the dart may be placed
nearer dot N or dot R if desired. Before remov-
ing the portions No. 1 and 2 be sure to mark
the lines indicating straight of goods.
K to 13A is 4 inches for size 16 plus 1/8 mcn
for each size larger. 13A to 14 is 1 inch. Draw
a straight line from dot S to 14. 15 is center
of S to 14. 15 to 16 is % inch. Draw a curved
line from S to 16 and 16 to 14. S to SS is 1V-j
inches. S to U is 14 inch. Connect U with SS.
Draw curved line U to DD, L to 17 equals K
to 13A plus % inch. 17 to 18 equals W to V
plus % inch. Draw lines 13A to 17 and 13A
to 18. The line S to 14 will never require any
change in fitting. The line 13 to 18 may require
a slight alteration for larger or smaller hips.
It is therefore advisable to provide an outlet
on line 13 to 18. It is also advisable to allow
on the line DD to I to J % inch for outlet on
both back and front. Allow for all seams. For
the front part of jacket the pattern as described
on page 101 is used.
[102]
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TO DRAFT THE FITTED COAT
To draft the back:
0utline the regular plain coat back as de-
scribed on pages 94, 95, letters B, D, E, F, G,
N, R, DD, I, H2, J2. Deepen the armscye as
DD to 8. C is center of D to B. Draw right-
angle lines from C, D, E, F, and G.
2 is center of C to T.
2 to 3 is 1/2 inch.
E to 4 equals C to 3 less % inch. F to 7 equals
E to 4 plus % inch. Draw a line from 4 through
7 to the bottom of the garment as K. Draw a
line from 4 through 3 and mark 6 at the inter-
section of line D and mark 5 at the intersection
of the shoulder line.
4 to 8 is 1/2 inch.
7 to 0 is 1/4 inch.
Draw a line from 8 through 0 to the bottom
of the garment as L.
4 to 9 is 1 inch maximum 114 inches.
6 to 10 is 21/2 inches. Draw a line from 9
to 10.
Draw curved line 9 to 0.
5 to 11 is 214 inches.
5 to 12 is 1/4 inch. Draw curved line 12 to 11.
12 to 13 is 1/2 inch.
5 to 14 is 3 inches. Draw curved line 13 to 14.
R to 14 is % inch. Draw a line from 13
through 14.
14 to 15 is % inch. Draw a line from 15 to 1/2
inch below T as 16.
To draft the front:
0utline the regular plain coat front with the
dart transposed to the shoulder seam and the
armscye made 1 inch deeper as B2 to 10 as
illustrated on pages 96, 97, letters 2, W2, EE,
FF, G, N, NN, Z, N3, Q2, B2,I, H2, J2. (Change
letter Z to 12, N3 to 20 and NN to 12.)
EE to 13 equals BB to 12 less 1/4 inch.
FF to 14 equals EE to 13 plus 14 inch.
Draw a line from 12 to 13 and from 13
through 14 to the bottom of the garment as 15.
13 to 16 is 1/2 inch.
Draw a line from 12 to 16 and a line from
16 through 14 to the bottom of the garment
as 17.
If you should desire the garment to be more
fitted in the front:
16 to 18 is 1/2 inch.
14 to 20 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from 12 to
18 and a line from 18 through 20 the full
length of the garment.
The amount taken off at these points must
be added on the sides as I to E, H2 to H3, and
J2 to J3.
If more fullness is desired over the bust add
1/2 as 12 to 21. Draw a line from 20 to 21 and
from 21 to 16 at the waistline as the dotted
line illustrates.
To cut the pattern, place the pattern on an-
other paper and with a tracing wheel trace the
center back portion. Also trace the front of the
front as outlined. Then cut the pattern and
allow % inch for seams on the pattern.
[104]
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THE FITTED COAT
[105]
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TO DRAFT THE COAT RAGLAN
Whereas raglan garments do not permit
much alteration it is advisable that you use a
pattern that has been fitted.
I have given the method of correct raglan
pattern drafting in a very elaborate, detailed
manner. But if you follow the directions, step
by step you will be happy with the results.
To draft the coat raglan, a regular dress
pattern is used of the desired size as described
on pages 36, 37, 38 and 39 on which, in accord-
ance to the chapter of adapting the pattern to
individual requirements for high shoulders, etc.,
page 40, have been noted. For the sleeve, the
regular sleeve pattern is used with the excep-
tion that for all coats, the sleeve pattern is 2
sizes larger than the dress pattern. As for
coat size 36, a sleeve pattern size 40 is used,
etc., for all sizes.
Figure 1. To prepare the back, to draft the
raglan, outline the desired size dress back pat-
tern as letters B, F, G, N, R, D, M, H, J.
Raglan coats are generally of easy fit, there-
fore D to D2 is 1/2 inch. M to I is U/2 inches.
H to H2 is 1/2 inch. J to J2 is 1/2 inch. Draw
a line D2 to I, I to H2 and to J2 as illustrated.
This completes the pattern to be used for draft-
ing the regular raglan coat.
N0TE: After the raglan coat pattern has in
total been drafted, the pattern may then, if so
desired, be made larger at the bottom 1V3 or
2 inches as J2 to J3 in a straight line from D2.
Inset Figure 2 illustrates method of making
the swagger back pattern. After the raglan
pattern has been drafted, to make the back
more swagger, draw a line from dot 14 or dot
15 to the bottom as 14 to S parallel with the
center of the back line. Cut the pattern on this
line and swing it open 2 inches or more as S
to S2 illustrates.
To prepare the front to draft the raglan
front, outline the desired size dress front pat-
tern as letters 2, FF, G, N, Q, B, V, V2, M,
H, J. W is the center of V to V2. Draw a right
angle line from the center front as W2 to W.
W2 to Z is 3V6 inches for size 16 plus % inch
for each size larger. N to NN is 114 inch.
Draw a line from NN to Z. For all coats, the
dart increases 1/4 inch as V2 to X. Draw lines
V to Z and X to Z. Cut the pattern on the line
W2 to Z. Make a fold in the pattern on the
line from V to Z and pin this fold so it con-
tacts with the line X to Z. The pattern will
now appear as in figure 4, W2 to W3. Extend
the center front line as W2 to 2A, B to C is
1/2 inch, M to I is 11/2 inch, H to H2 is 1/2 inch,
J to J2 is 1/2 inch. Contact C to I, I to H2 and
H2 to J2. We have now prepared the pattern
to easily draft the raglan coat pattern.
N0TE: After the raglan coat pattern has in
total been drafted, the pattern may then be
made larger at the bottom 1V2 or 2 inches in
the same manner as the back from C, as D
to J3 of the back.
<M
[106]
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THE RAGLAN COATContinued
[107]
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THE RAGLAN COATContinued
Use a regular sleeve pattern that is 2 sizes
larger than the dress pattern. As for a size 36
coat, use size 40 sleeve pattern, etc. for all sizes.
Figure 5. Place the back of the sleeve 10
inches from the edge of the paper nearest to
you and 8 inches from the edge of the paper
to the right of you. 0utline the sleeve as
letters 1, 2, 3, 10, 11. Draw a line 1 to 3.
4 is the center of 1 to 3. 6A is the center of
10 to 11. Draw a line 6A through 4 at the
intersection of the sleeve top, mark dot 2. 2
to 5 is 1% inches. Make right angle lines from
5 at the intersections of the sleeve line, mark
dots 6 and 7. Dot 2 to dots 9 both ways is 1/4
inch. Place the back pattern so the shoulder
point touches dot 9 and the armscye of the
back touches dot 6, hold the pattern firmly in
this position and outline the whole back as
9 to R, B, E, 9 to 6, D2 to I to H2, and con-
tinue ot the full length. Dot D2 may come on
the line 1 to 3 or above it or below it according
to the size of the pattern. Dot 12 is % inch
from dot 6. R to dot 0 is % inch. Draw a
straight line from dot 0 to dot 12. 12 to dot
14 equals 12 to 13. 12 to dots T, both ways,
is 11/j, inch. For all coats, the armscye is made
1 inch deeper as D2 to dot X. 0 to dot 15 is
31/2 inches. 15 to dot 16 is % mcn- Draw a
curved line from dot 0 to dot 16 to dot T and
T to X as illustrated. This completes the back
portion.
Place the front pattern to position so the
shoulder point touches dot 9 and so that the
armscye, point C, touches either at the line
1 to 3, or above or below it according to dot
D2 of the back, thus the dots D2 and C must
always be parallel with the line 1 to 3. Hold
the pattern firmly in this position and outline
the pattern as 9 to N, N to 2, 2 to W3, W3 to
W2, to E and continue the full length. Also
mark the dart dot Z, and the side seam I, H2,
etc., the full length. Extend line 7 and mark
dot 17 at the intersection of the front arms-
cye. Dot 18 is the center of 7 to 17, N to 19 is
11/4 inch. Draw a straight line 19 to 18. This
establishes dot 20. 19 to 8 is 4 inches. The
armscye for all coats is made 1 inch deeper as
C to X. Draw a curved line from dot 8 to dot
17 to X as illustrated. The sleeve is made V2
inch deeper as 3 to Y and I to Y. Draw a
curved line from dot 7 to 21 to Y and S to Y
as illustrated. At the shoulder points, dot 2
to dots 33 is 1 inch. Extend the front and back
as dotted lines 9 to 33 illustrate. Place a piece
of paper under the pattern and with a tracing
wheel, trace the sleeve on the line 0 to 15, 15
to T, T to S, S to I, S to Y and Y to 11. Then
trace on lines 0 to R, R to 33. This completes
the back part of the sleeve. For the front
sleeve trace on line N to 33, N to 19, 19 to 8,
8 to 17, to Y and Y to 10. Remove the traced
part.
We now cut the back part on lines B to E
to the full length B to 0, 0 to 16, 16 to T, T
to X, X to I, I to H2, etc. To cut the front part,
cut on lines 19 to 8, 8 to 17, 17 to X, X to I,
I to H2, etc. Then cut from 19 to dot 2, 2 to
dot W3, W2 to E, and continue the full length,
cut line from dot 20 to Z and Z to dot W3.
Place dot W3 so that it contacts line W2 to Z.
Pin it to position. The pattern will now appear
as the dotted line Z to 20B, 20B to 19B, and 19B
to 2B. The amount from dot 20 to dot 20B
is the dart. For the lap 2B to 4 is 3 inches.
2B to H is V4 inch. 4 to 6 is 11/i inches. This
completes the pattern. Allow % inch for all
seams.
If a seam is desired in the sleeve 4 to 4B both
front and back portions of the sleeve is % inch.
Connect 33 with 4B to the bottom as 6A illus-
trates.
[108]
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THE RAGLAN COAT AND SLEEVE
[109]
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TO DRAFT THE DOLMAN COAT
To draft the dolman back, the regular coat
back with the armscye deepened, as described
on pages 94, 95, is used on which all letters B,
D, E, F, G, N, R, 8, I, H2, J2 are marked. Draw
a right-angle line from the center back line to
the armseye as D to 8.
D to 12 is 2Vo inches. Draw line 12 to 14 paral-
lel with line D to 8.
D to 13 is 31/2 inches. Draw line 13 to 15 paral-
lel with line D to 8.
R to 16 is % inch.
14 to 17 is % inch. Draw curved line 16 to 17
and line 17 to 8.
Draw a line down from 17 parallel with the
center of the back as 17 to 18.
18 to 19 is 114 inches. Draw line 15 to 19.
15 to 21 and 19 to 20 are each % inch. Draw
line 20 to 21.
To draft the dolman front the regular coat
front as described on pages 94, 95, is used,
marked letters 2, 4, 5, N, NN, N3, Q2, 10, I,
H2, J. However, for a dolman coat the loca-
tion of the dart is under the lapel. Therefore,
the dart is transposed from the shoulder seam.
To transpose the dart make a new mark on
the regular coat pattern as 2 to X is 2V2 inches.
Draw a line from X to Z. We now cut the regu-
lar coat pattern on the line NN to Z and also
on the line X to Z. Place the line NN to Z
so it contacts with the line N3 to Z and pin it
to position, thus the new dart under the lapel
is indicaed by letters X, Z, 0 will be formed.
Draw a right-angle line from the center front
line as B to 10.
B to 12 is 21/2 inches. Draw line 12 to 14 paral-
lel with line B to 10.
B to 13 is 31/2 inches. Draw line 13 to 15 paral-
lel with line B to 10.
Q to 16 is 3/4 inch.
14 to 17 is % inch. Draw curved lines 16 to 17
and 17 to 10.
Draw a line down from 17 parallel with the cen-
ter of the front as 17 to 18.
18 to 19 is 11/4 inches. Draw line 15 to 19.
19 to 20 and 15 to 21 are each % inch. Draw
line 20 to 21.
For the back sleeve portion trace on lines 17
to 20 to 21 to 8 to 17.
For the front sleeve portion trace on lines 17
to 10 to 21 to 20 to 17.
Cut these portions out for use later.
Cut the back garment on lines 16 to 17 to 19
to 15.
Cut the front garment on lines 16 to 17 to 19
to 15.
This completes the front and back.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the garment.
Believe in yourself, believe in humanity, believe
in the success of your undertakings. Fear noth-
ing and no one. Love your work. Work, hope,
trust. Keep in touch with today. You cannot
fail
[HO]
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TO DRAFT THE DOLMAN COAT
[in]
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TO DRAFT THE DOLMAN COAT SLEEVE
To draft the sleeve:
Use a regular dress sleeve two sizes larger than
for a dress as described on page 58 and outline
the sleeve as X, CC, FF, C, X, P.
Draw a line through X and X.
The portion cut from the garment as Q to 16
and R to 16 must be added to the sleeve as F
to 2 is % inch. Letters P are located 11/o inches
above line X to X. P to 3 is % inch. P to 4 is
% inch. Draw curved lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 4.
Place the portion traced from the front part of
the garment so that 10 meets X and so point 17
contacts line 2 to 4. 0utline as 10 to 21 to
20 to 17.
Extend line C through X as 0.
X to A is 11/2 inches.
A to XX is 1 inch. Cut the pattern portion on
line 10 to 0.
Hold the pattern portion at 0 and swing it out
until point 10 meets XX and outline as: XX to
21 B to 20B to 0.
X to 22 is 21/2 inches. Draw curved line 21B
to 22.
17 to 23 is 2 inches. Draw curved line 0 to 23.
This completes the front part of the sleeve.
Place the portion traced from the back part of
the garment so that 8 meets X and so point 17
contacts line 2 to 3. 0utline as 17 to 20 to
21 to 8.
Extend line CC through X as 0.
X to A is 11/2 inches.
A to XX is 1 inch. Cut the pattern portion on
line 8 to 0.
Hold the pattern portion at 0 and swing it out
until point 8 meets XX and outline as: XX to
21B to 20B to 0.
X to 22 is 21/o inches. Draw curved line 21B
to 22.
17 to 23 is 2 inches. Draw curved line 0 to 23.
This completes the back part of the sleeve.
The world is wide
In time and tide,
And God is guide;
Then do not hurry.
That man is blest
Who does his best
And leaves the rest;
Then do not worry.
[112]
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2 to W (both ways) is % inch. This % inch is
for a small dart 11/2 inches long.
The pattern will now be outlined as: C to 22
to 21B to 20B to 0 to 23 to W to 2 to W to 23
to 0 to 20B to 21B to 22 to CC.
*Allow a % inch seam on the sleeve around the
curve from 21B to 21B. Allow % inch seams
elsewhere on the garment.
To make the Dolman Coat:
Sew up the shoulder seams.
0n Dolman garments it is preferable to make a
lap seam with the garment lapping over the
sleeve. Therefore, turn under the % inch seam
from 15 on the front of the garment to 15 on the
back of the garment. Press firmly.
Tailor tack the seam line on the sleeve %, inch
from the edge.
Sew up the darts and press firmly.
Clip the seam on the sleeve at the curves from
20B to 0 to 23.
Place the folded edge of the garment against
the tailor tacked line on the sleeve. The dart
seam on the sleeve must meet the shoulder seam
of the garment. Stitch the lap seams 14 inch
in width.
/-2IB
f'20B
2'2
DOLLMAN SLEEVE
TF
FIG. 3
BACK
'CC
[113]
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TO DRAFT THE SWAGGER COAT
n N '
Figure 1. To draft the back.
0utline the regular plain coat back without a
shoulder dart as explained on page 96, 97, as:
B, C, E, F, G, J2, H2, EE, 8, T, R, N.
8 to 10 is 1/2 inch.
Hold the pattern at dot R and swing it so
that 8 touches dot 10 and outline back as: R
to S to 10 to E2 to H3 to J3.
The coat may be made more swagger by hold-
ing the pattern at 10 and swinging point J3
out and re-marking from 10 to J3.
If desired less swagger hold the pattern at 10
and swing point J3 in and remark from 10
to J3.
When cutting the sleeve, add the same
amount on the sleeve as 8 to 10. If the coat is
desired very swagger, cut the pattern from the
center of the shoulder seam N to R parallel with
the center back line to the bottom and spread
the pattern open as illustrated for the Raglan
back, page 106.
Smile a little,
Help a little,
Push a little,
The world needs you.
Work a little,
Wait a little,
Hope a little,
And don't get blue.
[114]
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TO DRAFT THE SWAGGER COAT
LU
Figure 2. To draft the front.
' 0utline the plain coat front as described on
page 96, as: 6, 8, J2, H2, E, V, Q2, Z2, 4, N2.
V to 10 equals 8 to 10 of the back.
H2 to H3 equals H2 to H3 on the back.
E to E2 equals E to E2 of the back.
J2 to J3 equals J2 to J3 of the back.
Draw line 10 to E2 to H3 to J3.
When cutting the sleeve, add the same
amount on the sleeve seam as V to 10.
03
NOW
// you hare hard work to do,
Do it now.
Today the skies are clear and blue,
Tomorrow clouds may come in view,
Do it now.
If you have a song to sing,
Sing it now.
Let the tones of gladness ring
Clear as song of bird in spring.
Let every day some music bring;
Sing it now.
If you have kind words to say,
Say them now.
Tomorrow may not come your way,
Do a kindness while you may;
Loved ones will not always stay;
Say them now.
If you have a smile to show,
Show it now.
Make hearts happy, roses grow,
Let the friends around you know
The love you have before they go;
Show it now.
[115]
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TO DRAFT THE DRESS RAGLAN
Whereas raglan garments do not permit
much alteration it is advisable that you use a
pattern that has been fitted.
To draft the dress raglan use a sheet of
paper 36 inches square.
Place the back of the pattern 1 inch from
the edge of the paper nearest to you and 12
inches from the edge of the paper to the right
of you.
Outline the regular dress back as: A, B, C,
D, E, F.
C to G is % inch.
Use the regular dress front and place the
pattern 14 inch above D as H so the neck point
touches dot G and outline as: G, I, J, K, L.
Draw a line connecting the front and back
under arm points through K and E.
M is center of K to E.
M to N is 1/2 of the total width of the sleeve.
M to O equals M to N.
Square lines down from N and O as N to NN
and O to OO.
On the sleeve pattern draw a line as P to Q
and mark R in the center.
Place the sleeve between lines N to NN and
O to OO so the sleeve cap will touch dot H and
so N to P and O to Q are equal.
Outline the sleeve.
R to T is 114 inches. Draw a line through T
parallel with line P to Q and mark U at the in-
tersection of the back sleeve curve and V at the
intersection of the front sleeve curve.
Draw line C to U and mark W at the inter-
section of the back arm curve.
C to X is 31/j inches.
C to Y is % inch. Draw line Y to X.
Y to Z is % inch. Draw curved line Z to X.
X to 1 is 11/2 inches.
W to 3 equals W to 2.
W to 4 is 1 inch.
Draw curved line 1 to 3 to 4.
This completes the back.
Draw line G to V and mark 5 at the inter-
section of the front arm curve.
G to 6 is % inch. Draw line 6 to 5.
5 to 8 equals 5 to 7 less % inch.
5 to 9 is 11/2 inches.
6 to 10 is 31/2 inches.
Draw curved line 10 to 8 to 9.
This completes the front.
Raglan garments are supposed to fit more
loosely than other garments, therefore, we add
% inch on the under arms seam on both the
front and back as K to 12 and E to 11.
Trace and cut the pattern on the following
lines:
Back blouse: Z, X, 1, 3, 4, E, 11.
Front blouse: 6, 10, 8, 9, K, 12.
Back sleeve: Y, X, W, U, Q.
Front sleeve: 6, 10, 5, V, P.
When cutting the garment allow % inch seams.
"There are loyal hearts,
There are spirits brave,
There are souls that are good and true;
So give to the world the best you have,
And the best will come back to you."
Henry Knight Miller.
[116]
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DRESS RAGLAN
[117]
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TO DRAFT THE BUTTERFLY DRESS AND SLEEVE
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper
nearest to you.
12 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
Place the dress back at point A and outline
as A, N, R, DD, EE.
Draw a line from the center of the back to
DD as D to DD.
Extend line E.
Square a line down from DD and mark EE
at the intersection of line E.
Place the front shoulder line against the back
shoulder line and outline as: N, 2, BB, 8, E, B.
Draw line B to BB.
Draw a line connecting thee under arm points
of the front and back as B to DD.
3 is center of B to DD.
3 to 4 is 1/2 of the total width of the sleeve.
3 to 5 equals 3 to 4.
Square a line down from 4 the length of the
sleeve and mark X at the intersection of line
B to E.
Square a line down from 5 the length of the
sleeve and mark X at the intersection of line
DD to EE.
Place the sleeve pattern between lines 4 and
5 so the sleeve cap will touch point R and so
the front under arm point will contact line 4
as O and the back will contact line 5 as P.
Outline the sleeve.
OO is center of N to R or any desired width.
B to 11 is 31/2 inches.
DD to 6 is 31/2 inches.
Draw curved lines OO to 11 to E and OO to
6 to EE.
X to 12 equals X to E at the waist line.
Draw a line from E to 12 and mark 13 in
the center.
Draw line 13 to X.
13 to 14 is 2 1/o inches. Draw curved line E
to 14 to 12.
11 to 15 is 11/> inches. Draw line 14 to 15.
X to EE equals X to E of the front.
X to 7 equals X to EE.
Draw line 7 to EE and mark 8 in the center.
Draw line 8 to X.
8 to 9 is 21/2 inches. Draw curved line 7 to 9
to EE.
6 to 10 is 11/2 inches.
Draw line 9 to 10.
Trace the whole pattern as drafted.
For the sleeve cut on line EE to 10 to OO to
15 to E.
Cut on line 9 to 10 and spread the pattern a
minimum of 2 inches to a maximum of 5 inches
as the dotted line 9B to E:J illustrates. On the
front cut on line 14 to 15 and spread the same
amount as on the back. This will provide for
ease in lifting the arm.
Cut out the front and back patterns.
When sewing the under arm curve a bias fold
should be stitched in the seam from 7 to EE to
prevent the garment from tearing at this point.
[118]
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THE BUTTERFLY DRESS AND SLEEVE
BUTTERFLY
DRESS
[119]
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TO DRAFT CHILDREN'S DRESS AND COAT PATTERNS
Children's dress patterns are drafted by the
breast measure which is taken straight around
under the arm. The length of the sleeve is
taken from the armscye to the wrist. Take the
length of the garment from the neck to the
desired length.
To draft the back.
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the
paper nearest to you.
A to B is % inch.
B to C is 314 inches for size 6 and increases
l/x inch for each size larger and decreases %
inch for each size smaller.
C to D equals B to C.
D to F is always 6 inches.
B to G is the total length. Make right angle
lines from A, B, C, D, F, G.
A to AA is 7V2 inches for size 6 and in-
creases i/2 inch for each size larger and de-
creases 1/2 inch for each size smaller.
F to FF equals A to AA.
Draw line AA to FF and mark CC and DD
at the intersections.
FF to H is % inch.
Draw line DD through H and mark GG at
the intersection of line G.
A to N is 2% inches for size 6 and increases
% inch for each size larger and decreases %
inch for each smaller.
A to P is 5% inches for size 6 and increases
1/4 inch for each size larger and decreases %
inch for each size smaller.
D to PP equals A to P. Draw line P to PP
and mark S at the intersection.
N to O is 3 inches for all sizes. O may come
either inside or outside of point P.
O to OO is 11/2 inches. Draw line N to OO.
S to T is -,\ inch.
PP to U (both ways) is 114 inches. Draw
line U to U and mark V in the center.
Draw curved line R-T-V-DD.
Square a line down from N and mark BB at
the intersection of line B.
BB to W is % inch.
TO DRAFT CHILDREN
To make the lap for the front of the coat:
Extend line 2 to 4 two inches.
Extend line G to G two inches. Draw line
4 to G3.
2 to X is 1/2 inch.
4 to 10 is 11/4 inches.
Draw line 10 through X to the neck curve.
To make the facing:
Fold the paper on line 10 to G3.
N to the dotted line on the shoulder is 1l/o
inches.
Draw line N to W and mark X in the center.
B to Y is 1 inch. Draw curved line Y to X
toN.
To draft the front.
Draw a line 3 inches from the edge of the
paper nearest to you.
1 inch from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
A to B equals B to D of the back.
B to C is 214 inches.
B to F is 6 inches.
Make right angle lines from A, C, B, F.
A to AA is 71/2 inches for size 6 and increases
V2 inch for each size larger and decreases V2
inch for each size smaller.
F to FF equals A to AA. Draw line AA to
FF marking BB and CC at the intersections.
FF to G equals F to G of the back.
Square a line out from G.
F to H is % inch.
Draw a line from B through H and mark GG
at the intersection of line G.
AA to N is 2% inches for size 6 and in-
creases V8 inch for each size larger and de-
creases % inch for each size smaller.
N to O is 4 inches.
O to P is 114 inches.
Draw a line from N through P.
N to Q equals N to R of the back.
CC to R is 514 inches for size 6 and increases
14, inch for each size larger and decreases 14
inch for each size smaller.
BB to S equals CC to R.
Draw a line from R to S.
S to T (both ways) is 1 inch. Draw line T
to T and mark U in the center.
Draw curved line Q to R to U to B.
AA to 2 equals AA to N.
2 to 3 equals AA to N.
Draw lines N to 3, 3 to 2 and AA to 3.
2 to 5 is 1/2 inch.
N to 6 is 1/2 inch.
AA to 7 equals AA to N. Draw curved line
6 to 7 to 5.
'S COAT PATTERNS
G to 12 is 31/; inches. Draw a line from 12
to the shoulder as the dotted line illustrates.
Cut around the neck line through both pieces
of paper as N to X to 10 and from N to the
dotted line.
Unfold the paper and the pattern will then
appear as illustrated.
The same size pattern is used for the coat
as for the dress.
Deepen the armscye of both the front and
back 1 inch as B to B, and DD to D,.
[120]
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CHILDREN'S DRESS AND COAT PATTERN
[121]
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TO DRAFT CHILDREN'S SLEEVE PATTERNS
AA
cc
KK-
Fig. 3
,FF
S ST&AlaHT OF- GOOD
.T
M
<5G<
,c
X,
Q
K
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper
nearest to you.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
A to B is 3% inches for size 6 and increases
1/4 inch for each size larger and decreases 14
inch for each size smaller.
B to C is the required length.
B to E is 114 inches.
Make right angle lines from A, B, C, E.
A to AA is 111/4 inches for size 6 and in-
creases 1/2 mch for each size larger and de-
creases 1/2 inch for each size smaller.
C to CC equals A to AA. Draw line AA to
CC and mark BB and EE at the intersections.
F is center of A to AA.
FF is center of C to CC. Draw line F to FF
which is always the straight of the material.
F to Q (both ways) is 14 inch.
A to G is 2 inches for size 12 and increases
1/jt inch for each size larger and decreases 1/
inch for each size smaller.
B to GG equals A to G. Draw line G to GG
and mark J at the intersection.
H is center of F to G.
H to P is 1/2 inch.
J to R is 11/4 inches. Draw line R to GG.
GG to S is % inch.
Draw curved line B to S to J to P to Q to F.
AA to K is 2 inches for size 6 and increases
% inch for each size larger and decreases 1/g
inch for each size smaller.
BB to KK equals AA to K. Draw line K to
KK and mark L at the intersection.
L to T is 114, inches. Draw line T to KK.
KK to U is % inch.
M is center of K to F.
M to P is 1/ inch.
Draw curved line BB to U to L to P to Q to F.
Coat Sleeve
For a coat sleeve use the sleeve pattern two
sizes larger than for the dress as: size 6 coat
requires a size 10 sleeve, etc.
Also deepen the armscye Vo inch as the dot-
ted lines B to X and BB to X illustrate.
[122]
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THE GURNEY METHOD OF BASTING SLEEVES
IN THE GARMENT
There is no advantage in trying on a sleeve
before it has been basted into the garment, as
it will always be too large, too small, too long,
etc. The sleeve cannot be properly fitted until
it is in the garment.
To baste the sleeve into the garment follow
the instructions of your pattern and match all
corresponding notches. However, if the indi-
vidual is round shouldered as illustrated by
Figure 3, page 24, the arm will hang forward.
To fit the sleeve for this person the notches
of the sleeve will be moved 14 to % inch fur-
ther forward than the notches of the garment.
Letters C on the above picture illustrate the
armscye of the garment. Letters A indicate
a method of pinning in the sleeve, but which
at its best is very uncertain as the fullness may
not be properly distributed.
Letters B illustrate an easy method of pin-
ning in the sleeves before basting them into
the garment. Have the edge of the sleeve and
the armscye even. Hold the sleeve even with the
garment at a point % inch back from the edge
as C to B, and insert the pins 1 inch apart as
illustrated. Baste the regular width seam as
indicated by the pattern. You will find that by
pinning it in this manner before basting the
sleeve that the fullness will be distributed
evenly and in the proper place.
[123]
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TO DRAFT THE CAPE
The regular front and back dress patterns
are used to draft the cape.
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest
to you draw a line as A to B to C.
Make a right angle line from A as A to E.
Place the back dress pattern on line A to C
and the front dress pattern on line A to E so
the shoulder points will meet as R.
Outline the dress back as: B, N, R, D.
Outline the dress front as: 2, N, R, B.
B to C is the desired length of the cape.
Just the art of being
Draw a line connecting the under arm points
B and D and mark X in the center.
Pivoting from R make an arc line from N
toN.
Draw a line from X through R until it inter-
sects the arc line N to N as point 3.
N to R to N illustrates one shoulder dart.
However, it is advisable to divide this into two
darts as:
3 to 4 is 1/4 inch.
kind is all this world needs
124]
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R to 5 is % inch. Draw lines N to 5 and 4
to 5.
3 to 6 is 3/4 inch.
R to 7 is 1 inch.
Measure the amount for the one dart as N
to N and subtract the amount from N to 4
from this. The remaining portion is the amount
for the second dart as 6 to 8.
Draw lines 6 to 7 and 8 to 7.
Draw a line from R to H parallel with line
B to C.
Draw a line as R to H2 parallel with line 2
to E.
Square out a line from C until it intersects
line R to H.
Pivoting at point R make an arc line from H
until it intersects line R to H2.
Square out a line from H2 until it intersects
line 2 to E as point E.
TO MAKE BUTTONHOLE LOOPS
Cut a piece of material on the true bias 11/2
inches wide and long enough for all the loops.
Fold the material double and stitch as in Fig-
ure 1. Stitch % inch from the fold for a short
distance and then reduce the width to VV inch,
maximum 1/4 inch from the folded edge as A.
Stitch a second time in the same row of stitch-
ing as B, stretching the material as much as
possible while stitching. This will prevent the
stitching thread from breaking when the loop
is finished and being used.
Cut the end which is stitched wider, on the
bias from the fold to the "stitching" as Figure
2. Thread a needle with very strong double
thread and insert the needle "Positively" from
the inside of the, fold. Make three or four
stitches as Figure 2 illustrates. Insert the nee-
dle with the eye first through the full length of
the fold. H0LD THE F0LD AWAY FR0M
Y0U and pull gently on the thread, this will
force the end into the wider part of the loop
and have an easy start. Pull only V2 mch at a
time and ease the outer portion over the inside
very gently. Always have the seam next to you
and do not attempt to pull the whole loop
through by pulling on the thread steadily as
the thread will break. Take it easy, pull just a
little at a time and work it gradually over the
seam, then you will be happy with the result.
Figure 3 illustrates a cord inserted in the
loop. A woolen yarn is used for silks.
BUTTON-HOLE. LOOP
Fig.X
Fid.
Fie. 3\
"A little bit of kindness
To others now and then,
A little bit of blindness
To the faults of other men,
The wish to be forgiving
When things somehow go wrong,
And life is worth the living
And /!<,/> is in the song."
[125]
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TO GRADE THE DRESS BACK
H
F
D
a
DD
5
Dz
Grading Means Making Patterns Larger
or Smaller
When drafting patterns by the Gurney
Method you noted that the various dimensions
continuously refer to plus for each size larger
and minus for each size smaller. Thusly the
patterns were drafted by the Gurney Self-Grad-
ing Method and this method of grading is ap-
plicable in the grading of all makes of patterns.
In manufacturing establishments the "Sloper"
pattern, Size 16, 34 bust, is used in the grading
to make patterns larger or smaller. However
any size pattern may be used.
To grade the back use the regular dress pat-
tern with the breastline D to DD, the waistline
E to M and the hip line F to H marked.
The back is made a total of 1/4 inch larger
for each size as B to B2 illustrates. However,
as you proceed with the grading you will note
that this 1/2 inch is distributed to various parts
of the pattern.
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper
nearest to you.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark B.
Place the pattern at B and outline as: B, D,
D
E, F, H, M, DD, R, N. Outlining the pattern
first will enable you to observe the amount the
pattern is enlarged on the various parts as the
dotted lines illustrate.
B to 3 is Vft inch for each size larger.
D to 3 equals B to 3. Place the pattern on
line 3 and outline the neck and shoulder as B
to 4 and 4 to 5.
3 to 6 is Vft inch for each size larger. Place
the pattern on line 6 and draw the upper half
of the armscye as 5 to 7.
6 to B2 is 1/4 inch for each size larger.
6 to D2 equals 6 to B2. Place the pattern as
B2 to D2 and outline the side as D3 to M2 to
H2.
D3 to 8 is 14 inch for each size larger. Place
point DD of the pattern on dot 8.
8 to 9 is 14 inch for each size larger. Move
point DD of the pattern down to dot 9 and out-
line the lower half of the armscye as 7 to 9
to 10.
The enlarged pattern is illustrated by the
dotted lines. You will observe that it has in-
creased 1/ft inch on the neck, a total of 14 inch
from the center back to the armscye, and 14
inch under the arm, making a total of 1/2 inch.
There is nothing worth the doing but the doing
of things right.
[126]
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TO GRADE THE DRESS FRONT
.'-5
To grade the dress front use the regular
dress pattern with the breastline B1 to B, the
waistline E to M, the hip line F to H and the
dart V to X to V marked.
The front is made a total of 1/2 inch larger
as 2 to 22 illustrates, and is distributed over
the various parts of the pattern as on the back.
The dart on the front increases 1/8 inch for each
size larger. Therefore, it is necessary to lower
the waistline 1/8 inch for each size as M to M,.
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper
farthest from you.
5 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark 2.
Place the center front of the pattern at dot 2
and outline as: 2, N, Q, B, V, V, M, H, F, E, B.
This again is done to show you just where the
pattern is enlarged.
2 to 3 is % inch for each size larger.
B1 to 3 equals 2 to 3.
The neckline is lowered V8 inch for each size
as 2 to O.
Place the pattern on line 3 and outline the
neck as O to 4 and the shoulder as 4 to 5.
3 to 6 is % inch for each size larger. Place
point 2 of the pattern on dot 6 and outline the
upper half of the armscye as 5 to 7.
6 to 22 is 1/4 inch for each size larger.
6 to B:! equals 6 to 22. Place point 2 of the
pattern on dot 22 and thus locate point B2.
Lower the pattern V& inch for each size at
the waistline as M to M,,.
NOTEThe hip line is also lowered 1/8 inch
by lowering the waistline.
Outline the side as V2 to M2 to H2 to H3.
B2 to 10 is 1/4 inch. Place point B of the pat-
tern on dot 10 and draw the upper part of the
under arm as 10 to V2.
V to V2 is the dart which you will note has
increased % mcn for each size larger.
B2 to 8 is 1/4 inch for each size larger. Place
point B of the pattern on dot 8.
8 to 9 is 14 inch for each size larger.
Move point B of the pattern down to point 9
and draw the lower half of the armscye as 7
to 9 to 10.
Point X of the dart extends % inch beyond
the armscye as the dotted line illustrates.
The enlarged pattern is illustrated by the
dotted lines.
[127]
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GRADING THE STRAIGHT DRESS AND COAT SLEEVE
c
The Gurney Method of sleeve grading is ap-
plicable to grade sleeves of all sizes and all
makes of patterns. After you are familiar with
the method you will then be able to grade with-
out making any marks. In manufacturing estab-
lishments the "sloper" sleeve, Size 16, 34 bust,
is used to grade sleeves larger and smaller, how-
ever any size sleeve may be used.
Figure 1 illustrates a regular sleeve pattern.
Sleeves increase in width as A to B % inch for
each size larger and decrease V2 inch for eacn
size smaller. The sleeve cap O to F increases 14
inch for each size larger, (up to and including
size 42), and decreases 1,4 inch for each size
smaller.
Draw line A to B. O is center of A to B. O to
P is 11/4 inches always. Draw line P parallel
with line A to B and mark Y at both intersec-
tions of the sleeve curves. Square up from O to
locate F.
Figure 2.
Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper
nearest to you.
7 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A. A to AA is the length of
the sleeve.
Square out a line from A as A to C.
A to B is the width of the sleeve pattern.
B to C is % inch for each size larger. AA to
CC equals A to C. Draw line C to CC. Place
point C of the sleeve pattern on dot C and draw
line C to CC.
A to X equals O to P of the sleeve pattern
plus 14 inch for each size larger up to and in-
cluding size 42.
C to X equals A to X. Draw line X to X.
A to D is V6 inch for each size larger. Place
point A of the pattern on dot D and outline as
A to Y.
Move the pattern up so line Y of the pattern
meets point Y on line X to X and outline as
Y toF.
C to E is ys inch for each size larger. Place
point C of the pattern on dot E and outline as
C to Y.
Move the pattern up so line Y of the pattern
meets point Y on line X to X and outline as
Y toF.
2 is center of F to F and will be the center
of the enlarged sleeve.
By this method of grading you will observe
that the sleeve has increased in width 1/R inch
as X to Y on the front, % inch as Y to Y and
1/ti inch as X to Y on the back.
[128]
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GRADING THE TIGHT SLEEVE
To grade the tight sleeve:
Prepare the sleeve pattern for grading as
illustrated in Figure 1 for the straight sleeve.
Place the sleeve pattern 1 inch from the edge
of the paper nearest to you and outline as A
to 8 to 9 to 10 to 11 and the bottom as 11 to 13.
Square a line out from A as A to C.
A to B is the width of the sleeve pattern.
B to C is 5/s inch for each size larger. Place
point C of the pattern on dot C and draw line
C to 8.
A to X equals 0 to P of the pattern plus 14
inch for each size larger up to and including
size 42.
C to X equals A to X. Draw line X to X.
A to D is % mch for each size larger. Place
point A of the pattern on dot D and outline as
A to Y.
Move the pattern up so line Y of the pattern
meets point Y on line X to X and outline as
Y to F.
C to E is % inch for each size larger. Place
point C of the pattern on dot E and outline as
C to Y.
Move the pattern up so line Y of the pattern
meets point Y on line X to X and outline as
Y to F.
2 is center of F to F and will be the center
of the enlarged sleeve.
The sleeve increases 14 inch in width at the
bottom for each size larger as 13 to 14.
Place point 13 of the pattern on dot 14 so
the sleeve will contact dot 8 and draw line 14
to 16.
Place point 8 of the pattern on dot 8 and draw
line 8 to 16 marking dot 15.
You will observe that the amount from 15
to 16 has increased slightly. Make notches at
9 and 10 to meet notches 15 and 16.
Sizes 16 and 36 remain the same length, sizes
38 and 40 decrease 14 inch in length and sizes
42 and 44 decrease Vo inch in length as the
dotted line illustrates.
We are all only a part of nature,
Consequently pray what do we live for
If it is not, to make life less
Difficult for each other.
Elliot.
[129]
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TO CUT A COAT LINING
Woolen materials usually stretch and silk
materials do not. Therefore, it is necessary to
make a pleat in the back lining of a coat to
offset the amount that the woolens will stretch.
For instance, when driving an automobile the
coat is subjected to a severe strain across the
back and unless the lining is large enough it
will split at the sleeves, etc. And now with the
use of rayon lining materials which ravel very
much, the seams must be large enough to hold
and thus give better wear to the garment.
The amount of lining material required is
determined by the length of the coat. Measure
the length from the front shoulder to the bot-
toms B to C in Figure 2. Twice this length,
plus 5 inches, is the amount necessary for the
average size coat.
To cut the lining, first open the material and
fold it double, pinning both the selvage edges
together. Place the back coat pattern 11/> inches
from the selvage as A to G and B to H in Fig-
ure 1. Cut along the pattern as A to C. Allow
% inch at the shoulder as C to I and D to J.
Allow % inch as D to K and reduce to V2
as E to L. Add 14 inch as E to M and reduce
to the waistline. Allow 1V2 inches at the
bottom.
The front lining is cut so that it will lap the
facing 11/0 inches as A to B and A to C in
Figure 2. Place line B to C on the other selvage
edge. Allow % inch as B to I, - F to H, and F
to G, and D to E, allow 11/2 inches at the bot-
tom. If the lining ravels very much or if it is of
poor quality allow at the side seams an extra
14 inch as X to W.
After the back and the front have been cut
out, place the sleeve in the center and allow
% inch as A to F, - F to G and equally so at
D to H and H to I as Figure 3 illustrates. See
next page for the two-piece sleeve.
To make the coat lining:
Sew the side seams.
Regardless of whether there is a dart at the
shoulder in the coat it is advisable to make a
1/2-inch dart in the lining as illustrated by N to
P to 0 as in Figure 1.
RELINING A COAT
This is especially so for ready made coats.
The garment is ensembled according to the
various notches which must meet the corre-
sponding notches at the seams. Therefore, to
avoid any difficulty in relining a coat, it is pri-
marily essential that before ripping the lining,
new location marks are made at the front and
the various seams with chalk or thread to later
identify the ensembling of the new lining. Be
careful to retain all the marks. We now rip the
lining. Preferably all around first, then the
seams. Press the lining. Use it as a pattern to
cut the new lining. Do not cut the lining any
smaller or shorter, preferably a little bit longer
and larger. Mark the new lining identically with
the marks of the old lining. Baste the lining in
the coat with all marks meeting, and you will
have no difficulty. This is the proper way to re-
line a coat.
The inner side of every cloud is bright and
shining,
I, therefore, turn my clouds about
And always wear them inside out
To show the lining.
Ellen Thorncraft Fowler.
[130]
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TO CUT A COAT LINING
hi
[131]
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TO CUT A COAT LINING(Continued)
H,
TO CUT THE LINING FOR THE TWO-PIECE SLEEVE
If a two-piece sleeve is used the lining must
again be large enough to allow for the stretch
of the woolen material as illustrated in Figure
4. Allow % inch as A to G at the front to noth-
ing at F. C to H is % inch. Place point C of the
pattern on dot H. H to I is % inch. Cut as W
to I to H to J to D as illustrated. For the under-
sleeve A to X and B to W are 21/2 inches. Cut
the lining as B to A. A to G is % inch and cut
as G to X. Cut the pattern on line X to W and
spread as X to X, % inch, thus, point C will be
located as point H. H to I is % inch. Cut as I
to H to J to D. If the lining ravels a great deal
allow a little more at the elbow. Note: the
amount the sleeve has been made larger is indi-
cated by the black space. The seams in sleeve
linings are Never Pressed 0pen.
[132]
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A SHRINE
She fits and she sews in the window there,
The sunshine around her fingers,
fust touching her braids of bright bronn hair,
And slender busy fingers.
And she fashions garments fair and fine
For the dear little babyhers and mine.
Her swift, white fingers can scarce keep pace
As down the years she glances.
And sews into folds of mull and lace
Her own sweet thoughts and fancies
And her eyes are bright with light divine
As she croons to the babyhers and mine.
She drops the work when the daylight dies
/ see them working, rocking
There are the dimpled arms, two dear, dark
eyes,
A wee blue shoe and stocking.
And my heart bends low before the shrine
Of my wife and the babyhers and mine.
Alice A. Allen
-
[133]
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TO MAKE TAILOR TACKS
Tailor tacks are used to mark the location of
pockets, darts, wide seams, and also where an-
other portion of the garment is to lap. Commer-
cial patterns indicate these locations by per-
forations or painted dots, etc. And whereas the
goods is placed on the double it is to have both
portions marked alike necessary to mark the
under portion of the material by means of tailor
tacks.
To make tailor tacks use a double thread.
Make a stitch on the chalk line or through the
perforation mark, now take a second stitch
over the first stich leaving a loose loop as letter
A illustrates. Then about 1 inch apart as A to
A leaving the thread loose at both A and B re-
peat the double stitch (actual tailor tack). Now
cut the thread on the long stitch B only. Pull
the two portions of the garment apart gently
so the stitching will be exposed as C illustrates
and cut the stitch as D illustrates.
In loosely woven material the tailor tacks
may come out, therefore, it is advisable to in-
sert basting along the tailor tack marks to
retain a permanent mark.
[134]
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THE GURNEY METHOD OF ECONOMICAL CORRECT
NECKTIE CUTTING AND MAKING
Regular necktie silk materials are 24" wide. To economically cut neckties, use McCall Pattern No. 518 by E. Gurney.
Outline a square 24 by 24 inches, then make a duplicate pattern, place the two patterns on the 24" square as illus-
trated and outline the patterns carefully. (Do not cut the patterns.) Now pin the outlined patterns onto several thick-
nesses of paper and with a long stitch, machine stitch on all the lines. Cut off the outer edges all around the 24"
square, thus you will have a number of correct patterns. To cut the material place the outlined pattern onto three
or more thicknesses of material, pin firmly to position, cut on all the lines through the pattern and material.
To cut bias ties of 38" wide material cut the pattern in two and use an extra pattern to mark No. 5 and 6 as illus-
trated. To cut ties crosswise of the material use the same method, thus one pattern is sufficient to supply the whole
world with tie patterns.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
24" material 24" wide will cut two bias neckties.
24" material 38" wide will cut three bias neckties.
Three-eighths yard 38" wide will cut two ties crosswise of the
material.
To make highest grade neckties by the Gurney method the
ties should be interlined with high grade all wool wrinkle-
proof interlining. The interlining for the largest portion of
the tie must be cut on the true bias. The interlining for the
small part of the tie may be cut either on the true straight
or true crosswise of the material. Your regular store will sell
you at 15c each, ready cut, ready made highest grade inter-
lining. If your store does not carry this material write
Edmund Gurney, care Dunn Bros., Los Angeles, publishers of
this book, and upon receipt of -one dollar, we will send you
six tie linings and further instruction on tie making.
/ TIP \*>,jAt Sl, Up
FACINS I FlRST-
PLACE No I,
Ms CALL PATTERN
N? 518
[135]
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SIMPLICITY SHORT CUT STEPS IN COAT MAKING
For all straight front coats the facing por-
tion may be cut on the coat. If you use a com-
mercial pattern and the facing is not cut on the
coat, pin the facing on the pattern with\ the
seams to lap, thusly there will be no seam on
the edge of the front, therefore, it will improve
the appearance of the coat front.
1. Tailor tack the facing line as number 1.
(See page 134 to make tailor tacks.) Also tailor
tack the pocket and buttonhole location and
insert a basting in the mark to permanently
establish a mark.
2. When light weight material is used it is
advisable to re-inforce the front of the coat
with cambric from the edge of the facing to the
dotted line as Number 2 illustrates. If so, cam-
bric must be thoroughly shrunk before using.
To shrink cambric, place it on a table and lay
it smoothly, wet it thoroughly with a sponge
or towel. (Please do not souse it.) When thor-
oughly dry cut it as illustrated to V2 inch be-
yond the front edge of the coat. Sew up the
cambric dart and the coat dart individually.
Press the seam open and baste dart seams of
woolen and cambric together. Place the cambric
to position and baste from the right side, also
baste in the tailor tack mark, then fold the
edge of the cambric and sew to position as No.
8 illustrates. However if heavy material is used
a piece of cambric, cut as Number 3 to be sewed
in the dart and armscye seams is sufficient. The
cambric used should be of the same shade as
the coat so it will not show through the lining
when the garment is completed.
3. Cut a piece of cambric 11/j inches wide for
the back armscye as Number 4 and baste it to
position.
4. Cut a piece of cambric 1 inch wide for the
back of the neck as Number 5 and baste it to
position.
5. Sew up the dart with % inch seam to
within 1 inch of the end of the dart, then grad-
ually reduce the seam to nothing y% inch below
the dart slash as Number 6 illustrates.
6. If no cambric is used over the front of the
coat we should, to prevent the front edge of the
coat from stretching, a 1/ inch wide tape or
selvage of cambric or silk is sewed to position
along the tailor tack marks of the facing fold.
When basting the tape to position as Number 7
hold the tape a little tight and then fell it on
the edge as Number 8.
7. Fold over the facing on the tailor tack
marks and baste it to position 1/2 mcn from the
folded edge. Insert a second basting further
back to hold the facing in place.
8. To prevent the garment from tearing at
the pocket, baste on the wrong side of the gar-
ment a piece of cambric large enough to cover
the pocket opening and so it will be sewed in
the side seam as Number 9. (This is especially
advisable for all children's garments and all
delicate materials.)
9. To hold the facing to position, place strips
of cambric 1 inch wide from the facing to the
side seam as Number 10 illustrates.
To Put the Lining in the Coat:
We generally put the body part of the coat
lining in the coat before we put in the sleeves.
Baste the lining on the side seams of the coat
leaving the lining 1/2 inch higher than the gar-
ment, then pin the lining to position at the
shoulder seam, etc., and complete the lining.
The sleeve is then sewed in through the woolen
and coat lining, felling the lining around the
armscye and then around the bottom of the
sleeve.
[136]
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TAPE
BASTED TO
Pos/r/o/v
TAILOR /*
TACKS/S
DART
WED
BLOW CUT
"Let HI endeavor so to live that when we come
to die even the undertaker will be sorry."
Mark Twain
[137]
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THE GURNEY METHOD OF MAKING THE HIGHEST GRADE
COLLAR APPLICABLE TO COATS AND DRESSES
\ /
Figure 1 illustrates from the wrong side of
the garment the facing stitched to position.
Figure 2. Before cutting the facing lower the
neckline 1/2 inch at D and G as explained on
page 87.
Cut the facing 1% inches wide at the shoul-
ders and 31/2 inches wide at the bottom.
Place the right side of the facing and the
right side of the garment together and pin the
facing to position. Pin a small piece of either
silk or cotton cut on the BIAS at the end of
the opening for re-inforcement as H, C, J.
On the wrong side of the garment as in Fig-
ure 1 place a pencil dot V2 inch below the end
of the opening as letter F.
Stitch the facing to position with a 14 inch
seam starting 1 inch below D, continuing to 1/2
inch above the end of the opening as E. Reduce
the seam from E so the width at F will be %
inch as illustrated and continue stitching to 1
inch below G.
From the wrong side of the garment as in
Figure 2 restitch around the end of the opening
as H, C, J and cut the opening POSITIVELY to
the end of the stitching as C.
[138]
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Figure 3. Stitch the collar all around the
neckline from D to G as K illustrates. If the col-
lar is too long cut off the extra length straight
with the grain of the material.
Stitch the other side of the collar to the fac-
ing and press both seams open as letter L.
Baste the ends of the collar together being
sure to add a little fullness on the facing side
to make the point of the collar curl toward the
garment.
Stitch the ends of the collar with 1/4 inch
seams as M.
Figure 4. Turn the facing to the wrong side
of the garment and baste to position. Stitch the
facing on the very edge as letter N.
The lower edge of the facing is neither turned
under nor stitched but is pinked as letter O.
Fasten the facing loosely to the garment
along the stitched edges. Do not fasten the fac-
ing to the garment across the bottom as then
the length of the facing will not show through
on the right side of the garment.
Figure 5. Turn under the collar seam across
the back and fell it to position as letter P illus-
trates.
[139]
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THE METHOD OF MAKING A PLAIN COLLAR
A
v \ x / / ,
!
\\\\\
Figure 1 illustrates a plain collar. Plain coat
collars are usually 2% inches wide finished. The
straight collar will be a little tight at the neck
and to relieve this strain a small opening may
be made at the center as Letter C illustrates.
However very frequently tucks are made at the
back of the coat to 1V2 inch on the collar this
provides ease at the top of collar. The collar
may be stitched if desired and either square
or round corners may be made. Figure 2 illus-
trates a coat with a facing added to the front,
thus, there will be no seam on the edge of
the coat. Sew the back facing portion on to
the front facing portion as Letter F. Pin the
collar at the front facing fold and baste it to
the garment as Letter A. Baste the facing to
position as Letter B. Sew a %-inch seam as
Letter C. To make the seam as thin as possible,
cut the facing seam and the garment seam off
close to the stitching as D. Baste the facing
over as Letter E and press firmly.
If the collar is not stitched as illustrated the
collar may be sewed all around with a seam and
be pressed open. If there is a seam in the
front of the coat, the collar may be stitched
onto the facing on the coat ind1vidually as illus-
trated in Figure 3, Page 139.
The victory of success is half won when one
gains the habit of work.
Sarah A. Bolton
[140]
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// you want an interesting life, choose what
you think beautiful and good and tiy to make
it come true. As long as you are fighting for
something- you are expectant, and as long as
you are expectant, you are alive, you are real.
The world and its fullness is yours!
[141]
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THE GURNEY METHOD OF DRAFTING SURE-FIT
SKIRT PATTERNS
FRONT
ALLOW FOR ALL SEAMS
M
,A
To Draft the Skirt
Fig. I. Draft the front:
Use a sheet of paper 36 inches long.
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to
you draw a line.
1 inch from the edge of the paper to the right
of you mark A.
AB is % inch.
AC is 7 inches.
AD is the total length of the garment.
Draw right angle lines from A, B, C. D.
AE is X f tne total hip measure plus }/+
inch.
CF equals AE.
EG is }/2 inch. Place a ruler on dot G so it
touches dot F and draw a line the full length
of the skirt and mark this dot H.
I is center of HD.
H] is ]/2 inch. Draw line }I.
FK is 1 inch.
GL is l}/8 inches. Draw curved line LK.
AM is 3 inches.
MN is % inch. Draw line BN and curved
line NL
This completes the front.
Allow % inch for seams.
For the placket: L to W is 8^ inches. L to
8 and W to 8 is % inch. Allow % inch for
seams on the pattern everywhere. However, it
is advisable to allow a total of 1 inch for the
side seams, on both back and front, making it
possible to enlarge a skirt, frequently .neces-
sary when firm tailor material is used that does
not stretch, and which will also allow the re-
quired material for the zipper placket.
[142]
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Figure. 2. To draft the back:
AB is % inch.
AC is 7 inches.
AD is the total length of the garment.
Make right angle lines from A, B, C, D.
AE is % of the total hip measure plus %
inch.
CF equals AE.
EG is ]/2 inch. Place a ruler on dot G so it
touches dot F and draw a line the full length
of the skirt and mark this dot H.
H to J is Y2 inch.
1 is center of HD.
2 is center of ID.
23 is }4 inch.
D4 equals 23. Draw lines J3 and 34.
FK is 1 inch.
GL is 1% inches. Draw curved line LK.
For all sizes two darts are appropriate in the
back.
AM is 3% inches for size 16 and increases
Y& inch for each size larger.
CO equals AM.
MR (both ways) is % inch.
MP is 6 inches. Draw line RPR.
MS equals AM less J/ inch.
OT equals MS.
SU is 6 inches.
SV (both ways) is % inch. Draw line V
UV.
MX is % inch. Draw line BXL.
This completes the back.
Figure 3 illustrates the method of making one
dart in the back.
M is center of AL.
CT equals AM.
Apply the waist measure. The amount from S
to S is the waist surplus which is equally
divided on both sides of M.
MW is 6 inches. Draw line SWS.
MU is ^s inch. Draw curved line BUL.
Allow % inch for the placket as L8 and
W8 on both the front and the back.
Allow ^g inch seams everywhere, making a
total of 1 inch for the zipper placket.
"Example" To constructively try, and do, is
the best precept.
[143]
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TO DRAFT THE GORED SKIRT
The front of the gored skirt may be made
with a panel front B to W is 3 V& inches and D
to R is 41/2 inches for a short person and 5
inches for a tall person. Draw line W to R as
dotted line illustrates.
A skirt may also be made with any number
of gores for silk or very light weight material
and a flare may be added on the seams B to 2
is 2 inches,D to 3 is 3 inches. Draw line 2 to
3. 2 to 4 is 2V& inches,3 to 5 is 3 inches. Draw
line 4 to 5. For the flaring part of the skirt 2
to 0 is 16 inches,3 to 6 is 114 inches,3 to 7
is 2 inches. Draw lines 0 to 6 and 0 to 7.
For the second gore 5 to 8 is 11/4 inches and
5 to 9 is 2 inches. Draw lines 0 to 8 and 0 to 9.
To cut the pattern place a piece of paper
under the pattern and trace on the lines from
2 to 0 to 6 and 4 to 0 to 9. This will then pro-
duce the gored portion. Now remove tracing
part and cut the front portion of the pattern
on the line 2 to 0 to 7 and the side portion of
the pattern on the line 4 to 0 to 8. Allow %
inch on the pattern for all seams.
Frequently in the gored skirt the seam will
have a rounded effect over the front. Therefore,
it is advisable to reduce the front panel as 2 to
X14 inch and do the same at point 4 to X.
However, we add on the gored portion the
amount we reduced it as 2 to X and equally so
as 4 to X, thusly there is no dart taken in on
the upper part of the skirt.
Gored skirts made in woolen materials do
not drape very nicely, however, if woolen mate-
rial is used for a flared gored skirt the hem of
the garment should be very, very small.
[144]
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TO DRAFT THE YOKE SKIRT
0utline the regular back skirt pattern as il-
lustrated.
1 to 2 is 6 inches.
Square a line from the center back point 2
to the side as K in Figure 5.
Cut off the yoke on line 2 to K as Figure 6.
Fold up the dart so that T meets T as in
Figure 7, thus the yoke will be in one piece.
Any desired style may be added on the front
to extend the yoke as illustrated in Figure 5.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the garment.
-
[145]
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TO DRAFT THE CIRCULAR SKIRT
0utline the back skirt pattern as E, F, X, P,
C, D, D.
Extend a line from point H of the dart to
the bottom of the skirt as J.
Cut on line H to J.
Fold up the dart so that D meets D, thus the
pattern will spread as J to H to J in Figure 1.
Place the side seams of the front and the
back together as C to P and outline the front
as: C, P, X, B, A.
G is center of X to X. The side seam may be
drawn from P to G.
If the front is desired narrower than the
back: 0 is center of G to X.
Draw line P to 0.
Allow % inch seams when cutting the garment.
Better trust all and be deceived,
And keep that trust and that deceiving.
Than doubt one heart that, if believed,
Had blessed one's life with true believing.
Kemble.
[146]
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TO MAKE THE INVERTED PLEAT
Commercial patterns usually have only a seam
allowance from the waist line to the opening of
the pleat. This is stitched from the wrong side
of the garment and the seam is then pressed
open. The pleat is then stitched on the right
side of the garment from the waist line to the
pleat opening. This is not a desirable method for
striped, plaid or any designed material.
Therefore, it is advisable for striped and plaid
materials to allow the material for the pleat the
full legnth of the skirt. Baste each fold of the
pleat individually 14 inch from the edge as let-
ters A and press the folds firmly. Insert a bast-
ing on the under portion of the pleat against
which the folds are to be placed and then baste
each fold to position as letters B. Stitch the de-
sired width of the seam as letters D. The end
of the pleat may be stitched as letters D to E
illustrate.
N0TE: All stripes must match when plaid
material is used.
[147]
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TO MAKE THE PLAIN SKIRT AND DRESS PLACKET
[148]
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[149]
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The Gurney Sure-Fit Method of Making the Concealed
Talon, Hookless, Sliding Fastener Skirt Placket
After many repeated trials, I have evolved this positive Sure-Method of concealed
zipper placket making for Tailoring, Dressmaking and Home-Sewing. If you follow the
instructions and complete each step you will be happy with the results.
To prevent the zipper from catching to the under garments when putting the skirt
on, FIRST fasten or hook the skirt at the waist. Then pull on the zipper slider tab so
the zipper will be lifted away from the under garment and ZIP up. When taking the
skirt off, FIRST leave the skirt fastened at the waist, then pull on the zipper sliding
tab so the zipper is lifted away from the under garment and ZIP down. Thusly it is in
both instances impossible for the zipper to catch the under garment.
d]
USUAL SCAM \y& ^A
Fie.1
and BACK
Figure 1. This illustrates the usual % inch seam allowance of the pattern, and also shows
that when cutting the material an additional % inch has been allowed the length of the placket.
Letter X illustrates that the stitching has been continued the full length of the garment.
Press the seam open very firmly, and then rip the seam J4 inch longer than the zipper metal.
Figure 2. Make a fold on the back panel a maximum !4 inch from the seam crease. Baste
in this seam crease through the fold as AAX. This basting MUST remain until the gar-
ment is finished.
Figure 3. Without stretching the folded edge baste it firmly against the metal of the ripper
as letter B.
[150]
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FIG. 4-
FROA<T PA/SE.L-
*=
P/4NEL
Figure 4. Pin or baste the front panel firmly to position so it meets or laps the seam
crease AA slightly.
Figure 5. From the wrong side insert basting MM. Then starting at N stitch close to
the metal as O. If desired, the seam from the back panel may then be cut off and the zipper
tape sewed to the garment as illustrated.
Figure 6. Sew the belt to position in the usual manner. Sew the eyes on the under side
of the belt, and then pin the upper part of the belt so the front panel B will lap the seam
crease A. While it is pinned in this position sew on the hooks.
This method will produce the highest type of placket.
Figure 7. The same method for the side zipper dress placket.
[151]
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Hare I helped, with all my might
and with all the strength I had
to lift a heavy burden from a heart, too sad,
then I'll feel, I've done some good
I've done the things I should
for the Lord has blessed me with a sense of right.
Have I taught some changeling boy
to invent some little thing
that will help to make him sing?
Then I'll have a nice warm feeling
thru my heart a stealing
for on the road of life, he'll be a joy.
Have I tried to lift the thoughts of a person in despair
over troubles bourne in mind
over acts that were unkind
saying, turn your thoughts from sin
to the good that wells within
for all may rest in mind without a care.
Have I shared with what I had
Just a little bit today
crumbs of comfort on the way
some small thing to old and young
just a ray of brightest sun
then I'll know, I've done my share and be glad.
If I've done my very best, all through this day
harmony, love and peace
and joys that will never cease
as I seek the deeper good
in mind and place and mood
will be a little bit of sunshine to light the way.
Minnie N. Segrue.
[152]
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TO MAKE A DRESS HEM IN SILK, CREPE AND VERY
LIGHT WEIGHT WOOLEN
Letters A and A indicate the desired length
of the garment.
Fold the hem over and insert a basting 1/2
inch from the folded edge A and A as letters
B and B indicate.
Trim the hem to the desired width as A to C.
Turn the hem under 1/4, inch and stitch very,
very close to the folded edge as D.
Insert a second basting % inch from the up-
per edge of the hem as E and E. Fold the hem
portion back, so the stitched edge of the hem
will extend about yK inch beyond the garment
as F illustrates. Sew the hem to position by
taking a firm stitch "just below" the stitch-
ing D as G illustrates. Then insert the needle
in the garment being sure to catch only "one"
thread as G2 illustrates. Take six stitches in
succession 14 m9n apart and when pulling the
thread leave a little loop at the end, thus you
will not pull the thread too tight. By sewing
the hem in this manner neither the hem nor
the stitching will show on the right side of the
garment.
TO SEW HOOKS AND EYES ON A
SKIRT BELT
Cut the required length of belt allowing
about 2 inches for a turn back.
Hooks and eyes are sewed to position before
the belting is sewed to the skirt. Fold the belt-
ing over 1 inch on each end. Note: the hooks
and eyes are sewed, so that the cut edge of the
belt will be next to the garment. Sew the top
hook % inch from the edge of the belting to
provide space for the presser foot of the ma-
chine when sewing the belt to the skirt. Note:
Stitches A are sewed through and through
thus providing maximum strength and equal
strain on the stitches. Insert four stitches at
the end of the hooks as B. Sew the eyes to posi-
tion letting them extend beyond the belting a
very little. Sew through and through as C
and D.
To pin the belt to position start with the eye
portion first. Then hook the belt together and
lap the skirt to position. Finish pinning the belt
to position, baste it firmly and stitch.
[153]
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TO MAKE A HEM IN HEAVY WOOLEN MATERIAL
Making and finishing the hem on a skirt with-
out pleats is distinctive from the hem of the
skirt with pleats. To make the hem in a skirt of
woolen materials without pleats, proceed as
Figure 1 illustrates the right side of the gar-
ment. Trim the hem even to the desired width.
Baste seam binding tape to position on the edge
as letters X and X illustrate and stitch close to
the edge of the tape as letters A and A.
Figure 2 illustrates the wrong side of the
garment and indicates the stitched edge of the
tape as letter B.
Figure 3. Trim the woolen to a little less
than half the width of the tape as letters C
and C.
Figure 4. The binding is turned over the edge
as letter C and sewed with a long stitch as
letter D illustrates.
Figure 5 illustrates the hem basted V2 inch
from the fold as E and close to the binding as
letters F and F.
Figure 6. To fell the hem. Fold the garment
so the edge of the hem is exposed % inch, then
insert the needle, first in the hem portion as
letter G, then 14 inch from this stitch insert
the needle into the garment being careful that
you take only a single thread of the garment.
Take six stitches in succession, don't pull thread
tight, leave a little loop, and repeat. By this
method the thread on the loop will be dis-
tributed equally and neither the stitches or the
hem will show on the right side.
MAKING AND FINISHING THE HEM FOR
THE PLEATED SKIRT
Making and finishing the hem for the pleated
skirt so that the pleats on the seams will posi-
tively always lay flat, the seams are clipped one
inch above the width of the hem as Fig. 8, and
the whole seam is pressed to one side as illus-
trated. To prevent the seam from showing, the
hem at the seam is made % inch shorter. We
now proceed the same as in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6. After the hem is sewed to position, insert a
basting from the right side along the seam as
letter H, Fig. 7, and machine stitch close to the
seam the width of hem as letter H, Fig. 7. Then
on the wrong side fold the hem on the stitching
and stitch 14 inch from the edge of the seam as
letter K, Fig. 8. This will make the pleat lay flat.
[154]
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jri cf. 1
SEAM
'RIGHT
SIDE-
B
Fig. 2
SIDE-
"CV O
rag- 3
SlDE-
SlDEr
Fig. 5
*J
METHOD OF
srncHiNG
5/DE-
Fig.
Hi
7
SEAM
Fig. 8
-U.
ix
^X
[155]
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EASY METHODS OF MAKING CORNERS
RIGHT S/DE OF MATE/I ML
I U.< m; 1 llluntraten the vnrlonn l IM-n of cornern Miat
will be dencrlbed.
CORNER NUMBER 1.
FlGURE 2 llluntrated the right nide of the Rarment anll
the t>;istiim line 0 lndlcatm the lteatn line.
Fold the neam over wlth the rltcht nlden toicether IIn A,
letting the neam extend beyond the under part of tin-
garntent nw B.
Stltch :is lilnntrated on the r..nt nide of the garment
ln Figure .
Cut off the corner an O to O ln I iuur. 2. Then out off the
top neant nn O to S.
Turn the corner to the wrong; nide nnd lt will then
nppear an ln Fliture 4.
NOTE: The neam create \ i* ' lnch ln from the folded
edge B to prevent the neam from nhowini when the lap
neam ln completed.
[156]
COH.VER \TMBER 2.
Pin a piece of nilk or cambric to ponltlon on the right
nlde of the trnrment nw X ln Figure 2.
On the wrong nide of the tcarment nn ln Flgure 3 the
bantlng line ft lndlcaten the neam line.
Stltch the corner from the wrong nlde On Hluntrated ln
FlKurc 8. N<ITI:: The ntltchlng ln M, lnch away from the
Nenm line <l. Slanh to the very corner of the ntltchinB.
Turn the nilk or cambric to the wrong; nlde of the gar-
ment IIn ln Figure 4.
flnnte to ponltlon very firmly having the neam creane A
% lnch ln from the folded edge R. Iliis will prevent
the nilk from nhowing >vhen the lap neam ln completed.
CORNER Nl 1HBER .
Banting line ln Figure 2 lndlcaten the neam line.
Fold the neam over HO the right nlden are together.
Stltch the corner from the wrong nlde of the garment an
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CORNER
No.1
VI rfl;
llluatrnted ln Fliture 3. NOTE!: The ntltchlng lN % lnch
ln from the si-nm line 0.
Cut off the corner \\ on line O to O nn ln Figure 2.
Then through one thlcknenn of the material cut clone to
the ntltchlng ;is O to s.
Turn the corner :is ln Flgure 4 hnvinir the nenm creane
A % lnch ln from the folded edge to prevent the si-mn
from nhowlng when the lap sr.-int ln completed.
CORNER NUMBER 4.
Bnnting line 6 ln Flgure S lndlcaten the neam line.
Pin a piece of nllk or cambric to ponltlon on the right
nlde of the garment an X ln Figure 2.
Stltch the corner from the wrong nlde of the garment UN
lllntrated ln Flgure 3. NOTE: The ntltching ln M. lnch
away from the neam line 0. Slanh to the very corner of
the ntltching.
Turn the nilk or cambric to the wrong nide of the gar-
ment an ln Figure 4.
Bnnte to ponltlon very firmly having the neam creane A
% lnch ln from the folded edge B. Thin will prevent the
nllk from nhowing when the lnp nenm lN completed.
To siid-ii the lnp neum to ponltlon refer to Figure 1.
Innert a banting on the garment am letter A to lndicate
where the nenm in to lap.
1nnerf a thread in the very corner of the lapping portion
an llluntrnted.
I'rc-ss very flrmly and pull on the thread ln the corner
to have the cornern nharp or nquare an denired.
Bante the lapping portion flrmly to ponltion againnt the
banting neam mark. When ntltching the corner pull on
the thread ln the corner to be nure that you will have a
nhnrp corner an lntended.
Lap neamn may be ntltched any denired width from the
edge.
[157]
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SKIRT-SLACKS
Skirt-slacks are different from the usual slack
garments because they hang straighter over the
hip and do not cup in. The garment fits closely
in the crotch but will not bind as most slacks
do.
Measurements required for slacks:
Waist measure.
Hip measure taken 7 inches below the waist
line, taut but not tight.
The "rise" or crotch depth is normally % of
the total height plus 1/2 of % of the height.
Example: the height is 64 inches. % of 64
inches is 8 inches. 1/ of 8 is 4 inches. 8 inches
plus 4 inches is 12 inches. This applies for all
sizes and ages. If you should desire the crotch
a little longer add 1/2 inch.
The length is taken from the waist line to
the heel of the shoe.
To draft the front:
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to
you draw a line.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
A to B is 71/2 inches.
A to C is 11% inches for size 35 hip and in-
creases 1/4 inch for each size larger and de-
creases y% inch for each size smaller.
C to D for adults is 9 inches.
D to E for adults is 9 inches. These two lines
are made merely for matching purposes.
A to F is the total length of the garment.
Make right angle lines from A, B, C, D, E, F.
A to G is 14 of the total hip measure plus 114
inches for woolen material, for silk and cotton
fabrics that do not stretch A to G is 11/2 inches.
C to H equals A to G.
Draw line G to H marking I at the intersec-
tion of line B.
G to J is 1 inch. Draw line J through I.
H to K is 21/2 inches for size 35 hip and in-
creases 1/8 inch for each size larger and de-
creases 1/8 inch for each size smaller.
F to L equals C to K. Draw line K through L.
F to M is 11/4 inches.
L to N is 11/4 inches.
Draw line K to N and mark 4 and 5 at the
intersections. Draw line C to M and mark 2 and
3 at the intersections.
K to O equals H to K. Draw line O to H.
H to P is 11 inches for size 35 hip and all
sizes larger and is 1 inch for sizes smaller than
35.
Draw curved line I to P to K.
A to Q is 1 inch. Draw curved line Q to B.
A to R is 4 inches for size 35 and increases %
inch for each size larger and decreases 1/a inch
for each size smaller.
Square down from R as R to S
R to T (both ways) is V inch.
inches.
J to U is % inch. Draw curved line T to U
as illustrated.
For the zipper placket Q to 6 is % inch.
B to X is 1 inch.
X to 7 is % mch. Draw curved line 6 to 7.
For the cuff F to 8 is 5 inches.
-L to 9 is 5 inches.
9 to 10 equals L to N less 1/8 inch.
8 to 11 equals F to M less 1/8 inch. Draw lines
N to 10 and M to 11.
For the permanent seam crease :
20 is center of C to K.
21 is center of M to N.
Draw line 21 through 20 to the waist line as
22.
When cutting the garment, mark the line 21
to 20 to make tailor tacks for the permanent
crease.
';/ inch seams have been allowed on the
pattern.
[158]
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THE SKIRT SLACKS FRONT
SHORTS FOR SPORT GARMENTS
For tennis, for bicycle, for beach, for gym-
nasium, etc., the same front pattern is used. Cut
the pattern the desired length. For pleats in
front cut the pattern on line 22 through 20 and
spread the pattern open a minimum of 5 inches
for the pleats.
Banish the future; live only for the hour and its
allotted work. Think not of the amount to be
accomplished, the difficulties to be overcome,
but set earnestly at the little task at your elbow,
letting that be sufficient for the day; for surely
our plain duty is "not to see what lies dimly
at a distance, but to do what lies clearly at
hand." Osier.
159]
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SKIRT SLACKS
To draft the back:
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to
you draw a line.
2 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
A to B is 7V2 inches.
A to C is 11% inches, is the same as the
front, for size 35 hip and increases 1/j, inch for
each size larger and decreases 1/2 inch for each
size smaller.
C to D for adults is 9 inches.
D to E for adults is 9 inches. These two lines
are made merely for matching purposes.
A to F is the total length.
Make right angle lines from A, B, C, D, E, F.
A to G is 14 of the total hip measure plus 114
inches for woolen materials for silk and cotton
fabrics that do not stretch, A to G is 11/fc inch.
C to H equals A to G.
Draw line G to H and mark I at the intersec-
tion of line B.
G to J is 1 inch.
Draw a line from J through I.
H to K is 21/2 inches for size 35 hip and in-
creases 1/a inch for each size larger and de-
creases 1/8 inch for each size smaller.
K to K K equals H to K. (See Note for Sport
Garments.)
F to L equals C to KK. Draw line KK to L.
F to M is 11/4 inches.
L to N is 11/4 inches. Draw lines KK to N
and C to M.
Note: If the material is wide enough 1/2 inch
or 1 inch or 11/2 inch may be added on the back
portion "only" on the line KK to N, this will
make the legs wider, then fold the line C to M
even with the new line KK to N to sew the
crease in the center.
K to O equals H to K. Draw line O to H.
H to P is 1V2 inches for size 35 hip and all
sizes larger and 11/4 inches for all sizes smaller.
Draw curved line I to P to KK.
A to Q is 1 inch. Draw curved line Q to B.
For the zipper placket Q to 6 is % inch.
B to X is 1 inch.
X to 7 is % inch. Draw curved line 6 to 7.
For one dart:
R is center of Q to J.
Square a line down from R as R to S 6 inches.
The waist surplus is taken in on both sides
of R as T.
R to T is usually % inch (both ways). Draw
lines T to S.
J to U is 3/8 inch. Draw line U to T.
Quite often two darts are desired instead of
one as:
Q to Y is 1/3 of Q to J less 1/2 inch.
Square a line down from Y as Y to S 6 inches.
Y to O (both ways) is % inch. Draw lines O
to S.
Z is center of Y to J.
Square a line down from Z as Z to S 6 inches.
Z to O (both ways) is % inch. Draw lines O
to S.
For the cuff F to 8 is 5 inches. L to 9 is 5
inches. Draw lines F to 8 and L to 9.
9 to 10 equals N to L less ys inch.
8 to 11 equals F to M less 1/8 inch. Draw lines
N to 10 andM to 11.
For the permanent seam crease:
20 is center of C to KK.
21 is center of M to N.
Draw line 21 through 20 as 22.
When cutting the garment, mark the line 21
to 20 to make tailor tacks for the permanent
crease.
% inch seams have been allowed on the draft.
It is advisable to allow a 1 inch emergency
outlet as the shaded portion from J to G illus-'
trates.
If you wish to cut the garment without side
seams cut the pattern on lines C to F (both
front and back). Pin the patterns together so
they lap % inch which is the seam allowance.
The inside seam will be cut on lines K to N and
KK to N.
[160]
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THE SKIRT SLACKS BACK
SHORTS FOR SPORT GARMENTS
For tennis, for bicycle, for beach, for gym-
nasium, etc., the same pattern is used with the
EXCEPTI0N that K to K equals half of H to K.
"Today will be my busy day,
With many things to do;
For strangers pass along the way
And I must have good words to say
Then bid them bright adieu!
To weary, stupid, young and gray,
To prodigal and true,
I'll give sweet roses while I may,
And make of this a busy day,
With many things to do."
Earl Bigalow Brown.
O
CM
[161]
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ECONOMICAL CUTTING OF SLACKS
Botany flannel and other woolen materials
are usually 54 inches wide. 1V2 yards of 54-inch
material is sufficient to cut garments sizes 35,
37 and 38 hip measure as in Figure 1. Frequent-
ly woolen materials are 56 inches wide and then
a garment size 39 hip can be cut out of 11/2
yards. If the material is 58 inches wide a size
40 slack can be cut from 1V2 yards.
Figure 2 illustrates the cutting of slacks
sizes 39 and 41 out of 54-inch material. You will
observe that 2V! yards are required.
For very economical cutting for large sizes
it is advisable to cut two garments at the same
time as illustrated in Figure 3. Three lengths
plus the cuff lengths will be required for the
two garments.
The Making of Slacks
For permanent creases in the front and back
make tailor tack marks in the front and back
on lines 22 to 21 then make a fold along the
tailor tack marks and stitch 1/16 inch from
edge of fold both front and back. To obtain
longer wear of the garment of light and delicate
material it is advisable to line the back portion
with A. B. C. silk material which must be cut on
the same grain of the material as the outside
to 6 inches below the crotch seam. Baste this
lining to position and sew it with the dart and
side seams, etc. Press the seams open very
firmly and make a concealed talon zipper
placket on the left side of the garment as ex-
plained on page 150.
Apply the waist measure and if the waist is
too small decrease the size of the darts. If this
is not sufficient decrease the seam in the back
as J to I. If the waist measure is too large in-
crease the size of the darts and if not suffi-
cient increase the seam in the back as J to I.
Sew the inside leg seam. The belt is a mini-
mum of 1% inch wide f1nished. Sew the belt
to position as illustrated on the Talon zipper
placket, page 150. If the material stretches, sew
a piece of cambric or other material cut on the
straight of the fabric in the belt.
[162]
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ECONOMICAL CUTTING OF SLACKS
CUFF
SIZE 25-27, WAIST, 35-37 HlP MEASURE
4O"LO/V6 REQUIRES f<%YDS. 54"WIDE.
FRONT
TJEP/A L
_ 4"
WIDE
CUFF
-"
BACK
FOR LARGER S/ZES
SEE FIG. 3
Fig. 2
FRONT
S/Z 39-4/ H/P MEASURE,
29 ~3/ WAIST 4O'LONG REQUIRES
YDS. MATERIAL 54-" W/DE.
CUFF
-S-
The easiest thing to find is fault,
And the hardest thing to keep is still.
[163]
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THE GURNEY SURE-FIT MEN'S AND BOYS' SHORTS
"We can accomplish anything we feel the urge
to do. We all have within us the capacity to
achieve what our souls desire. lt all depends
on the extent of our will power, and our ability
to sacrifice unimportant things for the all-im-
portant goal. This alone is the measure of our
achievement. No obstacles are too great. No
matter what our past mistakes have been, no
matter how the false years may have misled and
neglected us, it is never too late to start anew,
never too late to attain to that complete ex-
pression of the self which alone makes for
richly contented living."
From "Discoving the Genius Within You,"
By Stanwood Cobb.
THEV YIELD TO
THE BODY J
Because of the numerous complaints of the
short garments tearing and being uncomfort-
able, I have made and patented this pattern.
You will note that the garment is cut bias in
the back and re-inforced in the front, there-
fore, it yields to the body and will not tear.
My adult education classes have used it ex-
tensively and have found it to be a very desir-
able garment. Not only do the men like to wear
them but the women enjoy making them. If you
will follow all the instructions step by step you
will have no trouble in drafting the pattern and
making the garment.
[164]
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NORMAL STANDARD MEASURES
Waist Measure
Hip Measure
25
30
261/2
...32
28
34
30
..36
32
38
34
..40
36......
42
38
44
40
..46
42
...47
44
48
Material Required 36" wide
25 waist _______________ ....... . ........ .. .......... . ............. .% yd.
28 waist. ............ _____________ ..................... . .......... 1 yd.
36 waist ................ ... ............. -11/8 yd.
40 waist ..... .. ..... . ....... . ....... .... ............... . ........ 11/4 yd.
42 waist.... ................... . ................. . .............. iy% yd.
The waist measure for men is normally 6
inches less than the hip measure.
Take the waist measure just above the waist
band of the trousers. The hip measure is taken
7 inches below the waist line and is taken over
the trousers. For children the waist measure is
larger in comparison to that of adults and the
hip measure is taken 6 inches below the waist
line.
When a bit of sunshine hits ye,
After passing of a cloud,
When a fit of laughter gits ye
And ye'r spine is feel in' proud,
Don't forget to up and fling it
At a soul that's feelin' blue,
For the minit that ye sling it
lt's a boomerang to you.
Jack Crawford.
[165]
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TO DRAFT MEN'S AND BOYS' SHORTS
The shorts pattern is drafted according to
the hip measure and the waist is adjusted as
required.
Draw a line 2 inches from the edge of the
paper nearest to you.
3 inches from the edge of the paper to the
right of you mark A.
A to B is 10 inches for size 36 hip and in-
creases % inch for each size larger and de-
creases 1/2 inch for each size smaller.
B to C is 6 inches.
B to D is 3 inches for size 36 hip and remains
3 inches for all sizes larger, and decreases %
inch for each size smaller.
Draw right an<rle lines from A, B, C, D.
A to E is 1% inches.
B to F equals A to E. Draw line E to F.
F to G is 3/, inch.
F to H and F to I are each V2 inch.
Draw a line from H to I and mark J in the
center.
Draw curved line B to J and J to G.
B to K is 3/J. inch. Draw line G to K.
C to L is % inch. Draw line B to L.
E to M is 1/2 of the total hip measure plus %
inch.
F to N eouals E to M.
Draw a line from M through N and mark 0
at the intersection of line D.
N to P is 1% inches.
0 to Q is 6 inches for size 36 hip and in-
creases % inch for each size larger and de-
creases % inch for each size smaller.
P to R equals 0 to Q.
Draw a line from 0 through R and mark S
at the intersection of line N and T at the inter-
section of line C.
T to U is % inch. Draw a line from S to U
and mark V at the intersection of line P to R.
M to W is 214 inches for size 36 hip and in-
creases 1/it inch for each size larger and de-
creases VH inch for each size smaller.
Draw a line from W through 0 and mark X
at the intersection of line P to R.
Draw line Q to X.
X to Y is 1 inch.
X to Z (both ways) is 2 inches.
Z to 2 (both places) is 14 inch.
Draw curved line 0 to 2 to Y to 2 to V.
W to 3 equals W to M less 1/2 inch.
E to 4 is 14 of the total hip measure.
For a dart 4 to 5 is 1 inch.
6 is center of E to 5. Square a line down
from 6 four inches as 6 to 7.
6 to 8 (both ways) is 1/2 inch.
8 to 9 is 114 inches. Draw lines 9 to 7. This
completes the first dart.
For the second dart 10 is center of 4 to 5.
Square a line down from 10, 41/2 inches as 10
to 11.
4 to 12 and 5 to 12 are each 114 inches. Draw
lines 12 to 11. This completes the second dart.
3 to 13 is 5/8 inch.
Apply the waist measure from 13 to 4, 5 to-
8, 8 to E. If this measure is too large make a
third dart to consume the extra length at 14
which is the center of 3 to 4.
Some men have what we call a "bay" window.
By this we mean that their waist measure is
large in comparison to their hip measure as: a
man has a 40 hip measure and a 36 waist meas-
ure. This indicates that he has a 2 inch "bay"
window. To take care of this 1/2 of the amount
must be added on each front as:
A to A2 is 1 inch. A to A3 is 1 inch.
E to E2 is 1 inch. E to E3 is 1 inch. See dot-
ted lines.
The facings for the garment are drawn on the
pattern as:
E to EE is 2 inches.
F to F2 equals E to EE. Draw a line from EE
through F2.
F2 to 15 is 1 inch.
B to 16 is 3 inches. Draw line 15 to 16.
The shaded part as 17 to 18 illustrates the
facing for the buttonhole side.
The shaded part from 19 to 20 illustrates the
facing for the button side.
It is obvious that for a garment with the
"bay" window provision the facing must be cut
to fit the body portion.
Figure 2. To draft the bias portion of the pat-
tern:
0n the body part of the garment make a
notch at Y. Measure the amount from V to Y
and apply an equal amount as 3 to Y and make
a notch.
Measure the length from V to Y to 0 to Y to
3. This indicates the required length of the bias
portion for the center back as illustrated by 3
to V in Fig. 2.
V to V is 334. inches.
3 to 3 equals V to V.
V to Y on the bias piece equals V to Y on
the body part of the garment.
3 to Y on the bias piece equals 3 to Y on the
body part of the garment.
Make notches at Y and when sewing the
garment together the Y's on the bias piece will
match the Y's on the body portions.
Figure 3. To cut the belt:
The belt is 11/i inches wide and is cut on the
selvage of the material.
All seams are allowed in drafting.
[166]
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MEN'S
(CUTBELT I%*NID

[167]
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WISHING
Do you wish the world were better?
Let me tell you what to do.
Set a watch upon your actions,
Keep them always straight and true.
Rid your mind of selfish motives,
Let your thoughts be clean and high.
You can make a little Eden
Of the sphere you occupy.
Do you wish the world were wiser?
Well, suppose you make a start,
By accumulating wisdom
ln the scrapbook of your heart;
Do not waste one page on folly;
Live to learn, and learn to live.
If you want to give men knowledge
You must get it, ere you give.
Do you wish the world were happy?
Then remember day by day
Just to scatter seeds of kindness
As you pass along the way,
For the pleasures of the many
May be ofttimes traced to one,
As the hand that plants an acorn
Shelters armies from the sun.
[168]
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HOW TO CUT SHORTS
WAIST BAND
CUT OAfE
A A
,.,,.., ., ...
MATERIAL
FIRST- Cur Mo. r
-CUT No. 2
THIRD - CUT /Vo.3
FOURTH- CUT No.
FIFTH - CUT tto.5
SIXTH - CUT No.
LEFT SIDE
OF GARMENT
RIGHT SIDE
OF GARMENT
Having completed the drafting of the desired
size of shorts you are now ready to trace the
pattern for use. Place a sheet of paper under
the whole draft, two small pieces under the
part for the facings and one piece under the
part for the bias portion. Trace all the lines,
thusly, giving you two body patterns, two fac-
ings and one bias pattern.
Cotton materials usually shrink one inch to
the yard, therefore, it is advisable to shrink
the material before cutting.
To cut the shorts:
Place the right side of the material down on
the table. Pin each piece of the pattern to posi-
tion as illustrated. Number 1 is the left side
(button hole side) of the garment. Please note
that this is the piece requiring the small fac-
ing. Pin the right side of the pattern to posi-
tion as number 2. Cut out both portions and be
sure to mark the darts and the notches.
Pin the bias portion to position as number 3
and cut it out, being sure to mark the notches
Y.
Cut the belt or waist band 114 inches wide
along the selvage as number 4.
Be sure to place the facings numbers 5 and
6 as illustrated and cut them.
[169]
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HOW TO MAKE SHORTS
STEPS
SEW - CROTCH SEAM AS
THEN SEW
LETTER
H
Step 1. Place the wrong sides of the bias
piece and the body pieces together, letting the
bias portion extend a little. Match the notches
Y and make the regular flat fell seam.
Stitch the darts 114 inches straight down as
8 to 9 and 5 to 12 illustrate on the drafting
picture and then taper them to 7 and 11. Meas-
ure the waist line and if it is too large take in
the extra amount in a small dart at 14 as illus-
trated on the draft.
Step 2. Place the right sides of the facings
and the garment together. Pin the belt on top
of the facing and stitch all the way around the
whole garment with a % inch seam. Slash as
A to B and turn the facing and the belt to the
wrong side of the garment.
Step 3. Stitch on the very edge of the gar-
ment starting at 5 on the left side and continu-
ing to 4 on the right side. At 4 stitch y4 inch
from the outer edge of the garment as 4 to 3
to 2.
Turn under the outer edge of the facing and
the belt and stitch to position as letters G in
Step 5.
Step 4. Place 5 of the left side of the garment
against stitching 2 of the right side and stitch
up to 3. Place the two fronts smoothly together
and stitch as 3 to 6 three-fourths inch in
length.
Step 5. The crotch seam may be made with
the usual flat fell seam. However, there is a
method to make a thinner seam. Cut a piece of
material 1/2 inch wide on the selvage. Place the
right side of the garment together and then
place the strip on the front piece and stitch
with a regular seam. Turn the selvage strip
flat and stitch on the edge of the selvage as you
would a flat fell seam.
Make 14 inch hems on the bottom of the legs.
It is preferable to make four buttonholes on
the garment, however, only three may be made
if desired. The first buttonhole is made % inch
from the top and the others are 21/4 inches
apart.
[170]
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PLACE E&GE 5 AGAINST STITCHING
AND SEW FftOM S TO 3. THEN
m POUR ROWS AS 3 TO 6
5 TEP 4
A
STEP
STITCH CLOSE TO THE D6 AS
THEN S Tl TCH '/+ FROM TH O6
2. 3. *. SLLUSTRATE. THN*
OH eDGE Of FACtNG AHCt
see Lerrer*s G STEPS.
f~ FACING STITCHING
STEP 2,
SEW FACINGS AND WAIST
BAND WITH SMALL
.
/
AFTER STITCHING SLASH
CORNER AS A TQ B"
FACING
[171]
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THE SONG OF THE SHIRT
With fingers weary and worn,
With eyelids heavy and red,
A woman sat, in unwomanly rags.
Plying her needle and thread
Stitch! Stitch! Stitch!
In poverty, hunger, and dirt;
And still with a voice of dolorous pitch
She sang the "song of the Shirt!"
Workworkwork
Till the brain begins to swim!
Workworkwork
Till the eyes are heavy and dim!
Seam, and gusset, and band.
Band, and gusset, and seam
Till over the buttons I fall asleep,
And sew them on in a dream!
"O Men, with sisters dear!
O Men, with mothers and wives!
It is not linen you're wearing out,
But human creatures' lives
Stitchstitchstitch
In poverty, hunger, and dirt
Sewing at once, with a double thread,
A shroud as well as a Shirt!
Thomas Hood.
D
// is my joy in life to find,
At every turning of the road,
The strong arm of a comrade kind
To help me onward with my load.
And since I have no gold to give,
And love alone must make amends,
My only prayer is, while I live
"God make me worthy of my friends!"
Frank Dempster Sherman.
Blessed are they who have the gift of making
friends, for it is one of God's best gifts. It in-
volves many things, but above all, the power of
going out of one's self, and appreciating what-
ever is noble and loving in another.
Thomas Hughes.
[172]
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SHIRT MEASURES
Ready-made shirts are usually purchased by
the neck measure and the sleeve length. Com-
merial patterns are purchased by the neck
measure. When drafting shirt patterns it is ad-
visable to use the breast measure and the neck
measure combined. Frequently men have a
large breast measure in proportion to their neck
measure. It is then necessary to make the body
of the shirt one size larger than the neck meas-
ure. This is easily obtained by adding ^ inch
around the neck and the yoke. For sport shirts
use pattern one size larger.
METHODS OF TAKING SHIRT MEASURES
The neck measure is taken at the base of the
neck taut but not tight.
The breast measure is taken easy straight
around under the arms.
The length of the sleeve is taken from the
center of the back at the neck over the shoul-
ders to 2 inches below the wrist bone. This
length for adults is usually one-half of the total
height less 2 inches and for children less 1 inch.
The length of the shirt is one-half of the total
height and is usually 33 inches.
Age
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
PROPORTIONATE STANDARD SHIRT MEASURES
Adults
Neck Breast Neck Sleeve Length
11 inches
Children
Breast
24 inches
26 "
26 "
30 "
32 "
32 "
34 "
12
121/2
13
14
Breast
32 inches
34 "
36 "
38 "
40 li
42 "
44 "
46 "
Neck
131/2 inches
14 " "
141/2 "
15 " "
16
161/2
17
32 inches
34 "
24 "
34 "
34 "
34 "
35 "
35 "
How much easier our work would be if we put
forth as much effort trying to improve the
quality of it as most of us do trying to find
excuses for not properly attending to it.
George W. Ballinger.
[173]
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TO DRAFT MEN'S AND BOYS' SHIRTS
Draw a line three inches from the edge of the
paper nearest to you.
1 inch from the edge of the paper to the right
of you mark A.
A to B is 1/8 of the neck measure plus 14 inch.
(See table of measures.)
B to 17 equals A to B.
A to C is 81/j inches for a size 14 neck and in-
creases 14 inch for each size larger.
A to D is 14 inches.
A to F is 33 inches.
F to G is 4 inches.
Draw right angle lines from A, B, 17, C, D, F, G.
A to H equals A to B.
A to I is 7% inches for size 14 neck and in-
creases 14 inch for each size larger.
A to J is 10V2 inches for size 14 neck and in-
creases 1/2 inch for each size larger.
F to FF equals A to J. Draw line J to FF and
at the intersections mark CC, DD, GG.
J to EE is 25 inches.
B to BB equals A to B.
L is center of B to BB.
M is center of BB to H.
Draw lines A to BB, A to M and A to L.
A to P equals A to B.
A to 0 equals A to P.
A to N equals A to P.
Draw curved line H, N, 0, P, B.
It is very difficult to draw the curved lines ac-
curately for the necklines. Therefore, to sim-
plify the drawing of the neck curves I have
made the curved lines for each size, as Figures
1 and 2 on page 176. To reproduce these neck-
lines place a sheet of paper on top of the draw-
ing and trace the desired size. When drafting
the pattern place H on H, B on B and 15 on 15
and outline.
C to C, equals A to I.
Draw line I to C3 and mark Y at the inter-
section.
CC to S equals CC to C3.
C3 to R equals C3 to CC.
U is center of CC to C3.
T is center of C3 to R. Draw lines S to T, S to
C3 and S to U.
S to V equals S to CC.
S to W equals S to V.
S to X equals S to V.
I to Q is 11/2 inches for the normal shoulder,
1 inch for high shoulders, and 2 inches for
sloping shoulders.
Draw line H to Q.
Y to Z is A- inch.
Draw curved line Q, Z, R, V, W, X, CC.
DD to 2 is 34 inch.
EE to 3 is % inch. Draw line CC to 2 and 2 to 3.
3 to 4 is 1 inch. Draw curved line 4 to EE.
EE to 5 is 1 inch.
GG to 6 is 21/2 inches.
Draw line 5 to 6.
5 to 7 is 2 inches.
FF to 8 is 21/2 inches.
6 to 18 is 4 inches.
8 to 9 is 4 inches.
10 is center of 8 to 9.
I1 is center of 8 to 6.
Draw lines 18 to 8, 18 to 10, 18 to 11.
18 to 12 is 31/2 inches.
18 to 13 is 31/2 inches.
18 to 14 is 31 o inches.
18 to 00 is 3V4 inches.
Draw curved line EE to 7 to 6 to 12 to 13 to
14 to 00.
[174]
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[175]
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YOKE AND NECK CURVES FOR ALL SIZES
I T
CENTER FRONrLINE
r 7
CENTER FWNTLIftE
To use the yoke and neck curves for all sizes,
place a piece of firm paper under this page. Be
sure that it is firmly held in position. Now make
a hole with pin or needle at A, B, H, and 15 to
19, all around the curve and repeat until you
have made a pattern for all sizes. Draw line A,
B, H, and 15 to 19, cut each neck size individu-
ally. To use the curves place lines A, B, H on the
rectangle lines of your draft and draw the neck
and yoke curve from H to B to 15. This will pro-
duce the correct curves for all sizes.
SHIRT COLLAR
The collar on this page is drafted full size for
a size 14 neck and allows V4 inch seams. To
make the collar larger or smaller add 14 inch
or reduce 1/4 inch at E and F.
The neck band is also drafted full size for a
size 14 neck and may be made larger or smaller
NECK BAND
by adding or reducing
inch as B and E.
CUFFS
Cuffs are 3 inches wide for all sizes.
For size 14 they are 10 inches long and increase
14 inch for each size larger and decrease 14
inch for each size smaller.
The corners are slightly rounded as illustrated.
[176]
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#
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[177]
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TO MAKE THE SHIRT FRONT
SIDE
OF GOOOS
,c
Fig*. 5
B
RIGHT
Of GOODS
Of 60005
B
Fig-. 6
OF
s/oe
OF GOOOS
SIDE.
GOOOS
Fig-. 8
RIGHT s/0
The most stylish shirts are made with the
French fronts. This type of front may be made
either with an Indianhead facing or with a
facing of the shirt material.
The French front with Indianhead facing. (In-
sets 1, 2, 3, 4, on the shirt draft, page 175.)
Cut a strip of Indianhead 21/2 inches wide and
23 inches long and fold it double as illustrated
in Figures 1 and 2.
Place the Indianhead on the right side of the
shirt on both fronts and stitch to position with
a Vft inch seam.
Turn the Indianhead to the wrong side of the
garment letting the shirt material roll over
and bind the % inch seam just made. Stitch
,:!,T inch from the edge, which is illustrated from
the wrong side in Figure 3 and from the right
side in Figure 4.
The buttonholes are made % inch from the
edge of the shirt. However, if striped material
is used for the shirt the center front is placed
on the prominent stripe when cutting the shirt
and then the buttonholes are made in this
stripe.
The French front with material allowed for the
button and buttonhole facing.
Figure 5 illustrates that the total amount that
must be allowed from the center front for this
type of French front is 31/4 inches.
Line A to A is the center front which is placed
on the prominent stripe of the material if
striped material is used.
Line B to B is the folded edge of the shirt and
is % inch from the center front.
B to C is 11/4 inches.
C to D is 1V4 inches. Thus you will observe
that there will be three thicknesses of material
for the button and buttonhole facings.
Figure 6. Fold the wrong sides together on line
C to C so line D to D will meet line B to B.
Figure 7. Make a second fold on line B to B,
which is the edge of the shirt. Stitch 1/4 inch
from the edge of the shirt as letter E illus-
trates.
Figure 8 illustrates the right side of the fin-
ished garment. Please note that the buttonhole
is made in the prominent stripe of the material.
He who begins and does not finish loses his
pride and his labor.
r 178 ]
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TO DRAFT THE SHIRT SLEEVE
STRAIGHT OF GOODS
PROMT OF SLEEVE
The armscye for size 14 neck is 19 inches and
increases % inch for each size larger and de-
creases % inch for each size smaller.
A to C is the length of the sleeve and is 231/2
inches for a 34 sleeve.
1 inch from the edge of the paper nearest to
you draw a line as A to C.
Square a line out from A as A to B which is
the total armscye less 1/o inch.
C to D equals A to B. Draw line B to D.
A to H is 2 inches for size 14 neck and in-
creases 1/jj inch for each size larger.
B to I equals A to H.
E is center of A to B.
F is center of A to E.
G is center of E to B.
C to H equals A to F.
C to EE equals A to E.
T is center of EE to D.
Draw lines F to H, E to EE, G to T.
Draw lines E to H and mark 2 at the intersec-
tion of line F to H.
Draw line E to I and mark 5 at the intersection
of line G to T.
3 is center of H to 2.
3 to 4 is 1/4 inch.
7 is center of 5 to I.
5 to 6 is 14 inch.
Draw curved line H, 4, 2, E, 6, 7,I.
J is center of C to H. Draw line H through J.
J to K is 34 inch. Draw line K to EE.
L is center of D to T. Draw line I through L.
L to M is % inch. Draw line M to EE.
R is center of T to EE.
R to S is 5V2 inches.
The sleeve may be gathered on the under-arm
seam, however, it is preferable to make the
sleeve smaller at the bottom as:
J to 0 is 1/2 inch.
J to P is 51/> inches.
Draw curved line P to 0.
L to N is 1/2 inch.
L to Q is 51/0 inches.
Draw curved line Q to N.
When sewing the sleeve in the garment extend
the sleeve % inch beyond the body part. Turn
the sleeve over 1/4. inch and stitch the seam with
two rows of stitching as usual.
[ 179 ]
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THE GURNEY EASY AND CORRECT METHOD FOR
MAKING THE SHIRT SLEEVE PLACKET
Cut the facings as illustrated on the opposite
page.
Figure 1. Fold the wrong sides of the facing
together.
Stitch on the very edge of the fold either start-
ing or completing the stitching at point A
which is y% inch below the cut edge B. This is
very essential as it is referred to later.
Figure 2. Fold the right sides together at the
top and stitch with a small seam as C.
Figure 3. Fold corner C over so it will appear
as D.
The location for the placket is marked by a cut
line on the sleeve.
On the wrong side of the sleeve place the larger
facing on the wider part of the sleeve and the
small facing on the narrow part of the sleeve
as in Figure 3.
Stich 1/tt mcn seams as E and E.
Figure 4. Turn the narrow facing to the right
side so it will roll over the seam and form a
bound edge. Stitch 1/8 inch from the edge. Turn
under the other side of the facing and stitch
as B.
Figure 5. Turn the remaining portion of the
placket to the right side and pin to position.
Start stitching at A as in Figure 1 and com-
plete the placket.
Figure 6. Illustrates the placket from the
wrong side.
[180]
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MEN'S SHIRT SLEEVE PLACKET
.F'
CTLTC-l.! i f? A M 1 /-
G
1
3 -T i rtrr~3 ^ C rVfi 1/T"
.2
s%.'
- J /4-
- ; y
\ * '4- -^
v 3, s
D
^-FOLD /I/Of -^
E tC
N> K)
-^FACING 1 F/C* 1 ~^ ^
_,_., *y iMrnrr -
*Z FOLD 1/4"^
B \
i
* yA
FOLD
FACING 2
,ST4T-C-H--
The illustrations on this page are full size and
have 14 inch seam allowance.
Figu^ 1.
A to B is 7 inches.
A to C is 1% inches.
C to E is 1% inches.
E to G is 1 inch.
F to G is 514 inches.
Cut as illustrated.
Figure 2.
Facing 2 is 11/ inches wide and 514 inches long.
Oh, for faith and strength to win
Every battle we begin!
Oh, for patience to put through
Every task we plan to do!
Robert Louis Stevenson
"vlr-
[181]
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The Gurney Method of Making Bound
Pockets and Buttonholes in Light
Weight Woolens, Silk or Lingerie
Materials as Figure 1
The pocket material should be cut length-
wise the warp thread (the selvage) of the
material. Thus the desired contrast will be
obtained and the pocket will be stronger. Cut
the pocket material in one piece large enough
for both the upper and under part of the
pocket and 11/2 inch wider than the pocket
opening. Mark the location and width of
pocket with chalk, or preferably with tailor
tacks, so both pockets will be in the right
place.
FIGURE 2. Baste or pin the pocket ma-
terial to position, and commencing in the cen-
ter, as letter A, stitch with small stitches 14
inch from the pocket mark line. Thus the
stitching will be V2 mcn apart. (For button-
holes the stitching should be only % inch
apart.) Cut on the pocket line as letters C
to C to % inch from the stitching at the end,
then cut diagonally to the "very" corner of
the stitching as letters B illustrate. To make
a nice buttonhole or pocket, it is absolutely
essential that the diagonal cuts are made to
the "very, very" corner of stitching B.
FIGURE 3. Pull the pocket to the inside
of the garment. To insure a neat finish, the
pocket material should not show at the ends.
Rub the corners until they are absolutely
square and the pocket is forced back so the
garment shows a little as letter C. Put in
three stitches as letters A and press the ends
so the corners will be square.
FIGURE 4. To be certain that the seams
will be in the binding, baste the seams to the
pocket as letter G.
FIGURE 5. Fold the pocket material over
the seams to form a binding and baste just
below the seams as letters D.
[182]
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FIGURE 6. Commence stitching- at A l/2
inch back from the opening of the pocket,
and stitch diagonally to the corner of pocket
opening B; then continue the stitching just
below the binding to C and D. Do the same
on both sides and remove the bastings.
FIGURE 7. Baste the pocket or button-
holes diagonally together, fastening firmly at
the ends as B. Now remove the stitches A.
Then to have the end of the pocket or button-
hole in perfect alignment, fasten the end
with two or three blind stab stitches through
and through. (A blind stab stitch means
bringing the needle from the bottom up, then
take a very, very little from the fold and in-
serting the needle back in the same hole
through and through.
Note illustration.
STAB STITCH
FIGURE 8. For button-
holes, the stitching referred to
in Figure 6 may be omitted,
and the binding may be fast-
ened with a blind-stitch just under the bind-
ing. To complete the buttonhole, refer to
Figure 3 of the slot buttonhole and fold the
garment over as A so the stitching at the
end is "exposed." Then commencing at B
1/2 inches from the fold, stitch diagonally to
the corner of the triangle, then in the "ex-
posed" stitching and continue to E as illus-
trated.
Note illustration.
EXPOSED STITCHING
For the pocket, fold the
back part of pocket down,
pin it to position, and com-
mencing to stitch at F, Fig-
ure 8, stitch to the top as
G, then in the "exposed" row of stitching,
and continue all around ending at H. To
prevent the pocket from gapping open, when
the garment is on, the front part of pocket
(the part that is next to the garment) is
easied to the back part of the pocket or a
small fold is made on the front part as letter
0. Overhand the pocket as illustrated. With
a little practice, this pocket as well as all the
pockets illustrated can be made without
basting.
[183]
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Bound Buttonholes
The Qurney Method of Making Bound Buttonholes for Trimming
Cotton, Silk, or Silk on Wool
FIGURE 1. When making the button-
hole for a trimming as silk on wool, cut
the binding (preferable on the length-
wise of the material) Vii inch wider than
the desired width of the buttonhole. Fold
the edges over 14 inch. Baste the folded
material over the buttonhole marks A
with a small stitch, stitch % or 14 inch
from each side of the buttonhole mark;
when stitching in the manner as illustrat-
ed there will be no thread ends to fasten.
FIGURE 2.
ters A to A,
illustrated.
Cut the buttonhole as let-
and clip the corners as
FIGURE 3. Sew a blind stitch as let-
ter A close to the binding and if neces-
sary "put in a stitch at each end as let-
ter B.
FIGURE 4. From the wrong side
fasten the two bindings together with
three stitches as letters A and A. (2)
Turn the edges D under and hem them
to the facing. For a reversible button-
hole as on the lapel of a waist or dress
the buttonhole should be neatly hemmed
so that both sides will look exactly alike
as figure 5 illustrates.
[184]
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The Patch Pocket
The Gurney Method of Making a Patch
Pocket in Cotton or Silk Material
FIGURE 6. Letter A illustrates the
pocket made in the usual way. After a
little use the corner shows as letter A
which is very undesirable. Letter B
illustrates the permanent neatness of the
patch pocket made by the Gurney method.
FIGURE 7. First make the usual hem
% to 1 inch wide and stitch from edge to
edge as letters A to A. (2) After the hem
has been stitched, cut just above the
stitching as letters A one inch deep.
FIGURE 8. Fold the edges under all
around the pocket, turning the hem
double as letters B and B. Thus the cor-
ners will always be neat and right as
letter B, figure 6, and never show wrong
as letter A, figure 6. When stitching the
pocket around the edge, the end of the
pocket can be strengthened by holding
the garment firm and stitching three
stitches on top of each other. Pull the
thread to the wrong side, tie and fasten
them by threading a needle and taking
two or three stitches.
A'"!
!
[185]
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The Gurney Method of Making the
Inset Stand Pocket for Woolens,
Lingeries, Silks, Etc., as Figure 1
The pocket material should be cut length-
wise the warp thread (the selvage) of the
material. Thus the desired contrast will be
obtained and the pocket will be stronger. Cut
the pocket material in one piece large enough
for both the upper and under part of the
pocket and 11/2 inch wider than the pocket
opening. Mark the location and width of
pocket with chalk, or preferably with tailor
tacks, so both pockets will be in the right
place.
FIGURE 2. Baste or pin the pocket ma-
terial to position, and commencing in the
center, as letter A, stitch with small stitches
1/4 inch from the pocket mark line. Thus the
stitching-will be 1/2 inch apart. Cut on the
pocket line as letters C to C to % inch from
the stitching at the end, then cut diagonally
to the "very" corner of the stitching as let-
ters B illustrate. To make a nice buttonhole
or pocket, it is absolutely essential that the
diagonal cuts are made to the "very, very"
corner of stitching B.
FIGURE 3. Pull the pocket to the inside
of the garment. To insure a neat f1nish, the
pocket material should not show at the ends.
Rub the corners until they are absolutely
square and the pocket is forced back so the
garment shows a little as letter C. Put in
three stitches as letters A and press the ends
so the corners will be square.
FIGURE 4. From the right side bring the
lower part of the pocket up, so it is 1/2 inch
wide, thus exactly corresponding with the
width of the stitching and being equal to the
opening width as B B in Figure 3. Then,
basting through the stand portion "only",
baste 14 inch from the edge of the fold as A.
FIGURE 5. Fold the lower part of the
garment up so that the pocket seam is ex-
posed and stitch the seam to the pocket as
letter B. Part of garment has been cut out
to show the stand letter A.
FIGURE 6. Baste above the pocket as
letter B so that the seam is turned up, and
also baste just below the stand through the
stand portion only as letter C; then baste
the stand to the back part of pocket as
letter D. Now remove the stitches A.
Then to have the end of the pocket or button-
hole in perfect alignment, fasten the end
with two or three blind stab stitches through
and through.
(A blind stab stitch means
bringing the needle from the
bottom up, then take a very,
very little from the fold and
inserting the needle back in
the same hole through and
through. Note illustration.)
Stab
Stitch
r
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FIGURE 7. Fold the garment over as let-
ter A so that the stitching at the end is
"exposed," note illustration.
Then commencing to stitch at F, stitch to
the top as G, then in the exposed stitching
all around the pocket and ending at H. To
prevent the pocket from gapping open when
the garment is on, the front part of pocket
is easied to the back part of pocket or a
small fold is made as letter O.
FIGURE 8. Overhand the pocket all
around. However, this type of pocket is
weak at the corners A, especially so in lin-
gerie and when the material ravels very
much. Therefore, if the seam is bound as
letter B, Figure 9, it will be stronger; or to
make the pocket maximum strong when
commencing the pocket, place a piece of light-
weight material (muslin or cambric) for re-
inforcement on the wrong side of the gar-
ment over the pocket position, then baste the
pocket material to the garment in the usual
way and stitch the pocket as in Figure 2.
Thus the reinforcement will be sewed with
the pocket and may then be used as a bind-
ing as letter C, Figure 9.
[187]
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The Inset Stand Pocket
The Inset Stand pocket is very extensively used.
First mark the location of the pocket with tailor
tacks. (See tailor tack illustration, page 134.) For
the pocket material cut a piece of cambric or silk
11/2 inches wider than the pocket opening and V/%
inches deeper than the desired depth of the pocket.
For the back portion of the pocket cut a piece of
woolen the same size as the cambric. If you do not
have enough material cut the piece of woolen a
minimum of 3 inches in width, and for the remain-
ing portion of the pocket add cambric or silk as
Fig 11 illustrates. For the stand portion cut a piece
of woolen length wise of the material a minimum of
21/o inches in width and 1Vo inches longer than the
pocket opening.
Fig. 4. Letter A illustrates a tailor tack indicat-
ing the location of the pocket. Letter B illustrates
the cambric or silk, basted or pinned on the wrong
side so that it extends % inch beyond each end of
the pocket and 3/t. inch above the pocket line.
Fig. 5. For better illustration I have used a
contrasting striped material for the Stand portion.
When making the pocket of flannel or easy-tearing
materially, especially so for children's garments, it
is advisable to re-inforce the Stand portion with a
piece of cambric % inch wide and cut on the length-
wise of the material. With the right sides together,
baste or pin the stand portion to position as B and
mark the length of the pocket opening with pins or
chalk. Baste the back facing portion to position as
C and stitch both parts with 14 inch seams as D
and D. Be POSITIVELY SURE to fasten the thread
ends of the stitching very, very firmly.
Fig. 6. From the wrong side, cut through the
center to 1/4 inch from ends as O to O. THROUGH
THE GARMENT ONLY, and not through either of
the facings, cut diagonally to the ends of the stitch-
ing as O to A.
Fig. 7. Pull the Stand portion through to the
wrong side and press the seam open as A.
[188]
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Fig. 8. Fold the Stand portion the total width of
the two seams as A to A, and baste in the center as
B. To keep the stand portion in position, machine
or hand stitch in the seam as needle C indicates.
Remove basting B.
Fig. 9. Fold only the seam portion towards the
top of the garment and baste as A. Force the Stand
portion of the pocket against this seam fold A and
baste it to the back portion of the pocket as B. C
illustrates the triangular corner which is turned
under and fastened neatly with the "Blind Stab"
stitch THROUGH ALL the pocket material as D.
(Note: Stab stitch illustration on page 186.)
Fig. 10. A illustrates the garment folded over to
expose the triangular corner O. To fasten the pocket
firmly at the ends, stitch (commencing 1/o inch from
the fold as B) straight to the corner of the triangle
as B to C and straight across to D and then off as
E. Stitch the facing to the cambric lining F.
Fig. 11. Complete the pocket as illustrated.
For children's garments it is advisable to re-
inforce the garment at the ends of the pocket as B
or to make a machine stitching 1 inch long as A.
This will prevent the pocket from tearing as fre-
quently occurs in frail or easy-tearing materials.
When you find yourselves overpowered, as it
were, by melancholy, the best way is to go out
and do something kind to somebody.Keble.
[189]
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18
The In and Out Flap Pocket
The Flap pocket is a continuation of the Stand
pocket, and it is essential that you first make a
Stand pocket before attempting to make the Flap
pocket.
The front of the flap is always rounded. Cut two
pieces of cambric 11/& inches wider than the pocket
opening and 11/^ inches deeper than the desired
depth of the pocket. For the Stand portion cut a
piece of woolen lengthwise of the material a mini-
mum of 21/2 inches in width and 11/o inches longer
than the pocket opening. To cut the Flap first make
a paper pattern which is 1/2 mch longer than the
pocket opening and 2% inches in width. Use this
pattern to cut both the woolen and the silk for the
lining.
Fig. 17. Baste or pin the woolen flap on the silk
% inch from the edge as C. Trim the silk even with
the woolen flap and then baste close to the edge as
D, pulling the woolens away so as to leave the silk
edge exposed a little as A and B illustrate. Trim the
silk even with the woolen and stitch from the LIN-
ING side with a small seam as E. Clip the corner
as F illustrates and turn the flap to the right side,
pulling out the corners with a needle (not with the
scissors).
THE
FLAP
From the silk side, baste with a small stitch so
that the woolen is exposed all around the edge, then
press. If desired the flap may now be stitched as in
Fig. 18.
Fig. 18. The back portion of the pocket is always
re-inforced with a silk facing 2 inches wide and
stitched to position as A to A. Baste or stitch the
flap on the pocket material the exact length as C
to C.
Fig. 19. Baste the flap portion to position as B
and the stand portion to position as D. Mark the
ends of the flap with pins and stitch with a 1/t inch
seam as C to C. Stitch the stand portion with a 1/4
inch seam EXACTLY the same length as the flap.
(Note: For easy-tearing material the stand portion
is re-inforced with cambric % inch wide as E.)
We now complete the pocket in the same manner
as illustrated by Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for the Stand
pocket, page 186. When stabbing the triangular cor-
ner D, Fig. 9, be sure you sew through ALL the
pocket material and fold the flap away a little so
that it will not be caught.
[190]
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.._ r _CA!TgRlC_ .
FIG 11
Patch Pocket
High grade patch pockets are lined with cambric or
silk.
Fig. 10. To make the patch pocket pattern, draw a
line as A to A 6 inches. The depth of the pocket A to F
is 7 inches, and A to B is 2 inches. Make a slash in the
pattern at A and A and round the corners at F. To
re-inforce the upper edge of the pocket baste a piece of
cambric Vz inch wide cut on the selvage as A to A.
Sew this with a small felling stitch as C. Make a fold
on line A to A and with a % inch seam sew the cam-
bric lining on line B to B leaving a \Vz inch opening as
E to E. Baste the woolen portion to the cambric 1 inch
from the edge, then cut the cambric even with the
woolen. With a small stitch baste close to the edge
pushing the woolen back from the edge so as to leave
the cambric exposed a little. Trim the silk or cambric
even with the woolen and stitch from the LINING side
with a very small seam. Pull the pocket through the
opening E to E and from the lining side baste on the
edge so the woolen is exposed a little. Sew the opening
from E to E by hand and then press. If stitching on the
edge is desired do it now. Baste the pocket to position
on the garment. Fold the garment so that the edge of
the pocket is a little exposed and sew the pocket firmly
to the garment. Insert the needle in the edge of the
cambric and in the garment and sew with a small fell-
ing stitch.
To prevent the garment from tearing at the corners
of the pockets, it is for easy-tearing material advisable
to fasten a piece of cambric or silk on the corner of the
pocket and sew it with a small stitch to the garment as
letters A and B on the Stand pocket, Fig. 11, page 18|f
Fig. 11. This illustrates the Patch pocket with a
turned down flap. To make the pattern make a three
inch fold on the paper as A to A. Cut the pattern the
same width and depth as explained for Fig. 10. For the
flap A to C is 1% inches, B to D is 3V2 inches. Cut the
flap portion on the line C to D to C and open the pat-
tern. It will now appear as C2 to D2 to C2 and cut the
main portion of the pocket like this. To cut the woolen
facing for the flap, A to I and A to J are 214 inches.
The remaining portion from I to E is the pattern for the
lining to which % inch must be added for seam on
line I to J. Sew the lining to the facing on line I to J as
illustrated in Fig. 10. Re-inforce the upper edge A to A
with cambric Vz inch wide and sew it to position as C in
Fig. 10. Baste the two portions together and complete
the pocket in the same manner as described in Fig. 10.
rL
MIL
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The Corded
and Piped
Pocket
Corded Pockets and
Buttonholes
For the cording or piping, cut a piece of woolen lengthwise
of the material 3% inches wide and 2 inches longer than the
pocket opening. For buttonholes cut the piece of material 212
inches wide and long enough to make cording for all the
buttonholes. For curved pockets the material is cut bias, and
for silks the cording is ALWAYS cut bias. Cut cambric and
woolen for the pocket as described for the Stand pocket on
page 186.
To make the cording for buttonholes proceed as follows: On
a piece of paper 21, inches wide draw a pencil line ? inch
from the edge. Draw a second line minimum Vz inch and
maximum % inch from the first line. Pin this paper on to the
woolens and with contrasting thread machine stitch with a
long stitch on the pencil lines. Tear off the paper, fold on the
stitched lines and stitch % inch from the edge of each fold
as A in Figs. 2 and 3.
To make the cording for pockets: On a piece of paper 3
inches wide draw a pencil line ?s inch from the edge. The
distance from this line to the second line varies according to
the width of piping desired. However, it must be four times
the width of the piping, as: a piping of 1A inch requires 1
inch between the lines. Thus, when stitched the distance be-
tween the stitching of the piping will be \z inch which is
equal to the combined widths of the piping.
Fig. 4. With a round bodkin needle insert ordinary wrap-
ping cord in the stitched folds as letter A. It is not necessary
to insert wrapping cord, however, if you do the buttonhole
will actually appear thinner and will look better. For button-
holes in silk insert yarn instead of wrapping cord.
Fig. 5. Buttonholes are made a minimum of % inch from
the finished edge of the garment. Mark the location of the
buttonhole with chalk, and if this does not show clearly on
the material machine stitch with contrasting thread in the
pocket and buttonhole marks as A, B, and C as "C" illus-
trates. (Red and blue chalk should NEVER be used on mate-
rial. Neither should a pencil be used on white material.) For
white material baste or pin a piece of paper to the garment,
then draw a "light" pencil line to mark the location of the
buttonhole or pocket. Stitch on the pencil lines and then re-
move the paper, thus a permanent mark is established.
The buttonhole in all woolen material must be re-inforced
with cambric or silk, which is ALWAYS placed on the wrong
side. For pockets refer to the Stand Pocket, Fig. 4, page 186,
and pin or baste the cambric portion to position as explained.
[192]
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Fig. 7. For pockets and buttonholes baste the edge of the
cording against the pocket mark A. Stitch in the stitched line
as B to B on both sides the EXACT length of the mark. (The
cording was cut in the center for illustration purposes.) Be
POSITIVELY SURE to fasten the threads firmly at the ends.
Fig. 9. From the wrong side, cut the pocket or buttonhole
opening in the center to J4 inch from the end of the stitching.
Cut diagonally through ALL the material POSITIVELY to
the end of the stitching A. Now refer to Fig. 8. IMPORTANT:
For all woolens, cut the corded material the full length as B.
For silks the corded material is NOT cut as C illustrates.
Fig. 10. Pull the corded material through and from the right
side baste the EXACT length of the pocket or buttonhole on
both sides as A. Baste the edges together diagonally as B.
Fold the triangular corners X and X under as F in Fig. 11
and "stab" through and through neatly so the stitches will
not show. (See stab stitch illustration, Page 186.)
Fig. 11. Fold the garment at the end of the pocket or but-
tonhole so the triangular corner X is exposed. Starting \'z
inch from the fold as A stitch to the corner of the triangle
as B, then a little deeper in the center as C and then to D
and to E. This makes the stitching in a "V" shape. In heavy
material assist the machine by lifting the presser foot when
stitching these corners.
Fig. 12. This illustrates the wrong side of the garment.
Press very firmly.
Fig. 13. To finish the buttonhole first baste the garment
facing over on the edge and then baste % inch on both sides
of the buttonhole as A and B. From the right side insert pins
at the ends of the buttonhole through the facing. These pins
indicate the exact location of the buttonhole on the facing
side, as pins C and C. Cut the facing from pin to pin, turn
under the edge and "Fell" it with a small stitch as the needle
"D" illustrates. (For the GURNEY HIGH GRADE METHOD
of FINISHING BUTTONHOLES, see page 194.)
Fig. 14. To finish the pocket stitch the cambric pocket por-
tion as "A". Then, with the exception of the diagonal basting
"B", remove all the bastings. Baste the back portion of the
pocket to position. Fold the garment over and stitch very
close to the fold as "C". Also stitch three times across the
ends of the pocket as B and C, then continue stitching all
around. This completes the pocket.
-E^f^
Fie. 10
---N,
.11
K~~?~
__.-
r ^t \
* /
\ \ . \ \ \. - \ \ /
III A=
F,s.fe W^
\
FlO.13
[193]
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The Qurney New High
Qrade Method of Finishing
Buttonholes
This method of finishing corded and
bound buttonholes on the facing side will
make the buttonhole appear the same on
both the right and wrong side.
Figure 10. Baste the edge of the coat
facing over in the usual manner. To hold
the facing to position, baste or insert pins
3/4 inch from each side of the buttonhole.
From the right side, insert pins straight
through at the ends of the buttonhole so
they will appear on the facing side as let-
ters A. Through the single thickness of
the material, insert a basting from A to
A as B illustrates.
Figure 11. Cut a piece of silk 2 inches
wide and 3 inches long, and on the right
side of the facing pin this to position over
the basting mark B. From the inside of
the facing stitch with a very small seam
around the basting mark B as illustrated.
Cut the opening in the center the full
length.
Figure 12. Pull the lining to the wrong
side. Force the lining so the woolen will be
a little exposed as C; baste with a small
stitch all around and press very firmly.
When pressing, pull on the lining at A and
press from the center to A. Press the
other side likewise, thus the woolen will
positively be exposed all around as C
illustrates.
To sew the facing correctly to the but-
tonhole so the buttonhole will be alike on
both sides, insert pins from the right side
at each end of the buttonhole. When sew-
ing the facing to position, start at the end
so the pins will be exposed and sew the
facing 1/s inch from the edge of the but-
tonhole. Do it in this manner and you will
be happy with the results.
l will do my work as I have never done it
before, with willing hand and alert brain. I will
put something of myself into it before it leaves
my hand, for as I work, so am l.
[194]
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The Older Method of Making
Piped Buttonholes and
Pockets
As described before, pockets and buttonholes are
always re-inforced with cambric on the wrong side.
(See Fig. 4 of the Inset Stand Pocket, page 188.)
Fig. 2. Letter A illustrates the chalk line indi-
cating the location of the pocket or buttonhole. To
outline the buttonhole on the wrong side baste\on
the chalk line as B. /
Fig. 3. Letter C illustrates the pocket or button-
hole location on the wrong side.
Fig. 4. Basting A indicates the pocket line. B
illustrates the woolen which has been cut 21/2 inches
wide for the buttonhole and 3V2 inches wide for the
pocket. Baste or pin this to position over the but-
tonhole mark as C and C illustrate. (Note: Bastings
C and C are y% inch on each side of the pocket mark.)
Fig. 5. Starting in the center and with a small
stitch, stitch % inch from the basting mark A as B.
If the material ravels very much stitch twice around
the pocket or buttonhole.
Fig. 7. Cut in the center to 14. mcn from the end.
Cut diagonally through all the material POSITI-
VELY to the corner of the stitching.
Fig. 8. Pull the facing to the wrong side and
force it back at the end so that the garment will be
a little bit exposed as B. Using contrasting thread,
insert the needle straight down from B as A and
bring it up at the edge of the facing and make four
stitches as illustrated. Thus, the woolen will be a
little exposed as B.
Fig. 9. The seams are firmly pressed with the
edge of the iron so the seam will be folded towards
the garment as A. Do this on both sides. From the
right side baste with a back stitch close to the pip-
ing so that it will be exposed l/s inch as illustrated
for the corded pocket Fig. 10, page 193. Press very
firmly and complete the pocket or buttonhole in the
same manner as Figs. 11, 12, 13, 14, page 193 of the
corded pocket.
[195]
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The Braid or Bias Tape
Pocket
Figure 2. This figure illustrates the pocket
material cut for the entire pocket. Place the
braid in the center of the pocket material and
stitch it on the edges as A and A. Place a second
piece of braid against the first piece and baste
as letters B and B. Stitch along side of the braid
(not on the braid) as letters C to C. Remove this
second piece of braid and the stitching line C to
C will be used as a "guide" line.
Figure 3. Place the portion with the braid just
below the marked location for the pocket. Stitch
just above the braid as letter A the exact length
of the pocket as B to B. Stitch on the "guide" line
C the exact length of the pocket as B to B. Cut
the pocket material only, between the two lines
of stitching just made as D to D.
[196]
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Figure 4. From the wrong side of the gar-
ment cut as line C to C to % inch from letters B.
Cut diagonally through the garment only from
C to B as illustrated. Pull the pocket through to
the wrong side.
Figure 5. From the right side baste the upper
seam up as letter A. Fold the pocket on the edge
of the braid and baste as letter B.
Figure 6. Fold the garment up to expose the
seam as letter C' and stitch the seam to the
pocket as letter C. Now baste the seam down as
letter C in Figure 5 and baste the stand portion
to position as letter D, Figure 5.
Figure 7. Turn the triangular corners under
as A and stab stitch the ends through all the
pocket material. Fold the garment back as B and
stitch the pocket as illustrated.
We should start out in the morning looking
for the day to be good, to bring us peace and
happiness and prosperity, never failure, disap-
pointment, loss. lf we looked for the good in-
stead of the bad we might more often in the
evenings be able to agree with the thought of
Theodore Roosevelt that 'the joy of living is
his who has the heart to demand it."
[197]
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The Welt Pocket
Because there are more details to the bias welt pocket than
there are to the straight welt pocket, we will make the bias
pocket as is used for the breast pocket of jackets and long coats.
Welts for the suit jacket (breast pocket) are 4 inches, maxi-
mum 4*,2 inches long, and 1 inch wide finished. Welt pockets for
long coats are 6% inches long and 1% inches wide finished.
Fig. X. All commercial patterns include the welt pocket pat-
tern. The grain of the material is marked with either perfora-
tions or arrows and there is a seam across the top of the welt.
To simplify the making of the welt pocket and to obtain better
results, we omit the top seam A to A. To do so a new pattern
must be made. Fold a piece of paper 3 inches wide and place the
fold on the seam line of the commercial pattern A to A. Pin it
to the commercial pattern and cut the folded paper along the
edge of the pattern. Mark the indicated straight of the material
and extend the printed or perforated line the full width of the
new pattern. Make a slash on the fold at A and B and cut the
material by this new pattern. The straight pocket pattern will
appear as Fig. 2 and the bias pocket as Fig. 3. Draw a line from
slash A to B and insert a basting on the chalk line as A to B
in Fig. 2 and 3.
Fig. 2. All welts must be re-inforced with cambric the length
of the welt. On the wrong side of the material baste a selvage
of cambric against the line A to B and sew it with a small "Fell"
stitch on the line A to B as C. (For illustration the cambric was
partially cut away.)
Fig. 4. Fold the material double with the right sides together
and stitch both ends with V4 inch seams as A. To make the welt
thin at the ends cut one thickness of the woolen off as C and C.
Also to obtain neat corners cut the corners off as illustrated.
A SEAM
-
0
^A
SEAM
STRAIGHT
V/OF^
0 GOODS
o
SEAM
> FIG.
X
FIG 2
4B
TME. WELT
4B
[198]
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Fig. 4B. Turn the welt right side out and pull the corners out
with a needle, (not with a scissors,) and baste along the edge.
Welts for coats are usually stitched % inch from the edge. Welts
for jackets are not stitched, however, if the edge of the garment
is stitched the welt must likewise be stitched which is usually
Ve. inch from the edge. Press the welt and trim the edge even.
Fig. 5. Cut a piece of cambric or silk marked D to D 4 inches
by 5 inches for jackets and 5 inches by 8 inches for coats. Baste
or stitch this cambric or silk to the wrong side of the welt so
the edge of the welt is a little exposed. Stitch it to Vt inch from
the end of the welt at C and C and clip the cambric at these
points. (Note that for illustration the cambric is folded as D.)
Fig. 6. For the back facing of the pocket marked D for either
the jacket or coat, cut a piece of woolen SVz inches wide and
1Va inches longer than the pocket opening. Baste the welt to
position as B and the facing as D. Stitch the welt POSITIVELY
to the ends with a % inch seam as C to C. (Note that to expose
the ends of the welt the cambric is folded as A to A.) Fasten
the threads firmly at C and C. Remove the basting B.
To surely stitch the facing the right length, fold the welt
over and insert pins or mark the ends of the welt as O and E.
Stitch the facing to position with a
shorter than the pin marks as E to F.
inch seam and % inch
Fig. 7. Cut the seam in the center as A to A and up to the
stitching as A illustrates. Before cutting the corner diagonally
to B, pull the facing portion to the wrong side and press the
seam open as letter A, Fig. 8. Cut diagonally through the gar-
ment "only" POSITIVELY to the end of the stitching as Letters
B and B, Fig. 7. For heavy material cut off a little of the gar-
ment seam only from B to B.
Fig. 9. Pull the welt to the right side. Fold the material ex-
actly on the seam and baste as letter A. Lay the garment flat on
the table and baste as letter B. For long coats stitch in the
stitching, commencing at C to D and E to F, as illustrated. Thus,
on the wrong side the stitching will be as letter C, Fig. 10. If the
welt is not stitched, fasten it firmly from the wrong side as
letter B. Complete the pocket as Fig. 10 illustrates.
fC
[199]
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The Welt Pocket with
Pressed'Open Seams
This type of welt pocket is preferable for the breast
pocket of jackets. The finished width for the breast
pocket is 1 inch, thus the width from B to B (Fig. 20)
is 11/4 inches. To make the welt pattern follow the
instructions for Figure X, page 206.
Fig. 20 shows the placing of the pattern on the
"right" side of the material so that the arrow or per-
forations are on the straight of the material. Cut the
welt allowing 1/2 incn as X to W and X to W. Make a
short slash at B and B. Remove the pattern and draw
a straight chalk line from B to B and insert a basting
on this line.
Fig. 21. 0n the wrong side of the welt baste a piece
of cambric or silk cut on the selvage, to position against
the basting from B to B as letter C illustrates. With
a small "felling" stitch, sew the cambric from B to B
as illustrated. (For illustration the cambric was par-
tially cut away.)
Fig. 22. Make a fold from B to B with the right
sides together and baste as D to D to D. Stitch the
ends of the welt with maximum 14 inch seams as E
and E. Cut off the corners as letters F and F illustrate.
Fig. 23. Turn the welt to the right side and baste
as letters G. Press the welt very firmly and trim the
edge from H to H even with the edge I to I. After the
welt has been pressed and trimmed, open the seams
V2 inch at the ends as J and J illustrate.
Fig. 24. Baste the welt to position as letters J and
J and the facing as K and K. Stitch the welt with a
1/4 inch seam "positively" the full length of the welt,
being sure to fasten the ends securely. Fold the welt
up and mark where the ends come as letters L and L.
Stitch the facing with a 14 inch seam % inch from
the marks L and L as M and M.
From the wrong side cut the pocket opening as de-
scribed in Fig. 7, page 199. Press both seams open very
firmly. Fell a piece of silk to position below the welt
seam and complete the pocket as Figs. 8, 9, 10, page 199.
\\u\\\\\\\
[200]
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The Pressed, Open*Seam Bound Pocket or Buttonhole
Fig. 1. Illustrates the bound pocket or but-
tonhole.
Fig. 2. Illustrates the fancy bound pocket.
The procedure for making the Pressed-0pen-
Seam pocket or buttonhole is, with few excep-
tions, the same as Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the
Inset Stand pocket.
Fig. 4. Place the usual pocket material of
silk or cambric to position as explained for the
Stand pocket.
Fig. 5. The Stand portion and the facing
portion are both cut on the lengthwise of the
material, and stitched the full length of the
pocket or buttonhole. For the buttonhole the
seam is a minimum ,',.; inch and maximum 14
inch. For the pockets the seams are a minimum
VI inch or any desired width. It is obvious that
for a pocket as illustrated in Fig. 2 the width
of the seams vary accordingly.
Fig. 6. Repeat the same as for the Stand
pocket.
Fig. 7. Press both seams open and cut off
^e inch from both the facing seams.
Fig. 8. Baste the binding over the seams
and machine stitch or hand stitch in the seams.
Baste the pocket binding diagonally together
as letter B, Fig. 10, page 193.
Fig. 9. Turn the triangular corners C and C
under as D and "stab" stitch firmly to position.
Fig. 10. For heavy material assist the ma-
chine by lifting the presser foot up a little
when stitching the triangle corners from B to
C and D to E.
Complete the pocket as illustrated for the
corded pocket Fig. 14, page 193.
BIN&
V PR$5POf>ft PQCXZT
#&: . -"
m1
PIG 2
SPEECH
Talk happiness. The world is sad enough
Without your woe. No path is wholly rough.
Look for the places that are smooth and clear,
And speak of them to rest the weary ear
Of earth; so hurt by one continuous strain
Of mortal discontent and grief and pain.
Talk faith. The world is belter off without
Your uttered ignorance and morbid doubt.
If you have faith in God- or man, or self,
Say so; if not, push back upon the shelf
Of silence, all your thoughts till faith shall
come.
No one will grieve because your lips are dumb.
Talk health. The dreary, never-ending talk
Of mortal maladies is worn and stale;
You cannot charm or interest or please
By harping on that minor chord, disease.
Say you are well, or all is well with you,
And God shall hear your words and make
them true.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox.
[201]
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"The best of a book is not the thought which
it contains, but the thought which it suggests;
just as the charm of music dwells not in the
tones but in the echoes in our hearts."
Oliver Wendell Holmes.
[202]
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