F

IRE Dragon Breathing On Beetroot may not

be a martial arts fighting stance, but it kind of
describes Joshua Skenes a nod to his kung
fu instructor past and his mastery of a primi-
tive cooking form that is key to the painstak-
ingly crafted compositions that land on the tables of his
restaurant Saison in San Francisco.
Case in point: the humble beetroot cooked and sus-
pended for two days over the perpetually glowing embers
of the kitchen hearth until dehydrated, then cooked in
beetroot juice until it rehydrates and achieves an amaz-
ing, intensely-flavoured chewy, gummy bear-like texture.
Paired with roasted bone mar-
row, sour red berries and fir nee-
dles, its a crimson-hued still
life on a plate and an epiphany
in the mouth.
Mind you, it was already
dish number 10 in a long
evening of highs at a restaurant
once dissed for serving pricey
US$248 menus but which now
offers US$398 Discovery menus
without a whisper of dissent.
Now that Saison has been
named the one to watch at
this years Worlds 50 Best
Awards, its getting a lot more
buzz, not that it affects Chef
Skenes in any way. Instead, hes
much more interested in per-
fecting his craft and sourcing
the best ingredients, whether its vegetables grown on the
restaurants own farm, or fish and abalone caught and
harvested specially for them.
Taking locavorism as far as he can, Chef Skenes is ob-
sessed with using ingredients only from the Bay area. To
me, its thoroughly representative of where we are. Its
been very difficult to find all of these items and we have
been sourcing for the last 10 years, even though Saison
has only been open for five.
Even though he uses ingredients such as shoyu, sea-
weed, bonito, fish sauce and miso which are associated
with Japan and Asia, he doesnt buy any of his ingredi-
ents from there. We make everything here. The dashi is
not dashi, the shoyu is not shoyu, and so on. His soya
sauce, for example, is made fromfermented grilled grains
and salt; fish sauce is made from smoked and raw fish;
kombu (seaweed)comes fromMendocino and is dried ac-
cording to his specifications; and so on.
Ironically, it was a recent trip to Japan where, even
though he was introduced to some of the best fish suppli-
ers, Chef Skenes made the decision that when I got back
I was going to drop everything from Japan and elsewhere
and only use products from the Bay Area.
Although he uses Japanese-inspired ingredients, I
dont see (my cooking)as Japanese in any way, he says.
I see presentation as a shape,
arrangement of negative space
and as a way to show the natu-
ral beauty of a product and its
materials. And to present it in a
way that makes it easiest to en-
joy its taste (for example, little
dishes on the side so as not to
mix flavours.
In that sense, its a highly dis-
ciplined approach perhaps
honed by his childhood training
in martial arts and his years
spent as an instructor before he
decided to cook full-time. With
his emphasis on purity of fla-
vour, using a wood fire as his
main heat source rather than
pan frying or oven roasting, his
raison detre is to be as natural
as possible, but also delicious.
And is it. A meal here is a veritable catwalk of beauty
and brains with an effortlessness that belies the amount
of work behind it. At the word go, we are greeted with a
ceramic cup decorated with a tiny bouquet of herbs and
flowers (grown in the restaurants garden) tied to a long
string. Hot Meyer lemon water is poured into the cup
and the fragrant bouquet lowered into the liquid makes
an enticing herbal aperitif.
Next, a mound of trout roe massaged in sake atop
silky sweet corn puree, slippery poached okra and wob-
bly tomato water jelly intensified by candy sweet roasted
tomato possesses an elusive quality you cant put our fin-
ger on like simplicity intensified with its focus on clean,
pure flavours layered on top of each other.
Crispy beignets of fresh anchovy, artichoke, chrysan-
themum and Celtuce blossom look like tempura but are
not, because of its very western, fish-and-chip like batter,
but elegantly presented with citrus soya sauce and curry
salt. Diamond turbot sliced sashimi-style comes from lo-
cal waters, and you eat it with pickled chrysanthemum
petals, mountain yam strips and nori minced with toast-
ed fish oil.
Sea cucumber as youve never seen it before is next
the delicacy is cooked till soft, dehydrated into thin discs
and then deep-fried expanding into luxurious keropok.
Thats followed by lightly smoked river trout from Battle
Creek, a tributary of Sacramento River. The delicate sashi-
mi-like denseness is enhanced by the juices the fish sits
in tangy, with the light liquorice fragrance of anise hys-
sop flowers.
Sea urchin from Fort Bragg is layered with avocado
and toasted sourdough bread soaked in a shoyu and
brown butter mixture that tastes almost Marmite-like,
the saltiness seasoning the avocado and tempering the
brininess of the sea urchin. Its hard to pick this over the
buttery-soft abalone taken live from the restaurants
tank, cooked immediately over the fire and served in a
sauce made from its liver, seaweed and brown butter,
amped up with the distinct but muted flavour of capers.
The highs pile up from a smooth, savoury toffee-like
mixture of duck liver, bread, milk and beer, studded with
toasted sourdough bits. Milk custard and caramelised
white chocolate are whipped into the mixture with ka-
lamata olives - a multitude of contrasts in a magical un-
ion. And how about thin slices of tender red deer layered
over melting soft eggplant and dried raspberry that mixes
with the juices of the eggplant into a tangy sauce, or
house-aged duck that cuts like butter, flavoured with hon-
ey and soya sauce made with the bones of the duck?
Its no wonder that Chef Skenes star is shining bright
in the industry. He agrees, too, that recognition is great
for morale and for the restaurant as a whole. The most
important validation is our guests that come back week
and week, month after month. To see them so interested
and engaged and enjoying themselves is a big part of why
we cook.
Just dont expect Chef Skenes to hop on the celebrity
chef route towards TV shows, endorsements or other lu-
crative deals.
Whatever I am called and however successful I be-
come, my long termgoal is to spend more and more time
at Saison and to just cook, says the soft-spoken chef.
Its really what brings me peace.
jaime@sph.com.sg
@JaimeEeBT
Joshua Skenes adopts a highly disciplined approach to perfecting his
craft and sourcing the best ingredients, evidenced in the painstakingly
crafted compositions at his restaurant Saison. By Jaime Ee
Culinary catwalk
AquaMarine
Marina Mandarin Singapore
6 Raffles Boulevard
Celebrate Singapore at Marina Mandarin
Celebrate Singapore and immerse in the
nations diverse dining scene as
AquaMarine brings you authentic local
dishes from Aug 1-31. Perennial favourites
such as chilli crab, laksa and durian penyet
will be available on the restaurants buffet
counters. Buffet lunch is available from
$60++ per adult and buffet dinner is
available from $70++ per adult. Take your
celebrations outdoor and enjoy an intimate
poolside barbecue buffet with family and
friends on National Day, Aug 9. Highlights
include charcoal grilled crayfish, sambal
stingray and fresh seafood. Buffet dinner is
available at $72++ per adult and $36++ per
child. Free flow of soft drinks or a glass of
beer/wine is available at $4.90++ per
person. For reservations and enquiries,
please call 6845 1111 or e-mail
diningexpress.marina@meritushotels.com.
Lobby Lounge & The Terrace
Conrad Centennial Singapore
Two Temasek Boulevard, Lobby Level
Lunch On The Go: (Available Monday to
Friday, 11.30am to 2.30pm) T-Wrap:
Succulent Chicken Shavings with Garlic
Sauce, Vegetables and your choice of
Wasabi or Barbecue Sauce at $7.50, Nasi
Lemak Wrap at $7.
Daily Happy Hour: 5.30pm to 7.30pm daily;
25% discount on draft beer, house pours
and standard cocktails. Weekend
Afternoon High Tea: Elegance and
Indulgence re-defined (Available Saturday
and Sunday and public holidays, 2pm to
6pm). Indulge in a buffet of oysters, meat
carving stations, unlimited chocolate
goodness and tropical sangrias to kickstart
your weekend! $58++ per adult while kids
from six to 12-years-old enjoy 50 per cent
off the adult price. For enquiries or
reservations, please call The Terrace at
6432 7487 and Lobby Lounge at 6432
7483. Alternatively, you may e-mail
sinci_fb@conradhotels.com.
Asian Market Caf
Fairmont Singapore
80 Bras Basah Road, Level 2
Featuring local favourites and
contemporary regional delicacies, Asian
Market Caf offers a glorious buffet spread
showcasing the breadth and depth of
Halal-certified authentic pan-Asian cuisine
presented in a nostalgic and traditional
hawker set-up. For reservations, please call
6431 6156, e-mail
dining.singapore@fairmont.com or book
online at www.asianmarketcafe.com.sg.
Bar on 5
Mandarin Orchard Singapore
333 Orchard Road, Level 5
Located five floors above Orchard Road,
Bar on 5 offers the perfect venue for
unwinding to a host of fabulous drinks and
snacks. Set within the urban buzz, this
premier contemporary bar calls out to the
discerning audience from sophisticated
professionals to the latest trendsetters in
town. Bar on 5 also features a resident DJ
spinning an eclectic mix of House, R&B and
top 40 chart hits. For enquiries or
reservations, please call 6831 6288/86 or
e-mail dine.orchard@meritushotels.com.
10 at Claymore
Pan Pacific Orchard Singapore
10 Claymore Road, Lobby Level
Double The Indulgence
Savour six types of oysters, freshly shucked
to order and premium USDA 1855 Black
Angus Beef carved and seared la minute
from now till Aug 31 at 10 at Claymore.
Savour well-loved oceanic gems selected
across five continents, carefully handpicked
to enthral even the most sophisticated
palate and freshly carved 1855 Black Angus
Beef, seared to perfection at the live
station. With superior marbling and superb
flavour, this is a meaty treat not to be
missed. Fresh, chilled seafood on ice,
air-flown sashimi and signature Plates of
Pleasure featuring American Kurobuta Pork
and Pickled Sauerkraut, Austalian
Tender-Plus Lamb with Sauted Forest
Mushroom and Executive Chef Andy Ohs
award-winning Peddlers Famous Char
Kway Teow, freshly prepared upon order
for your dining pleasure. For enquiries and
reservations, please call 6831 6685 or
e-mail dining.ppsgo@panpacific.com.
Serenity Spanish Restaurant
391 Orchard Road, Ngee Ann City
Takashimaya SC #05-32 or No 1
Harbourfront Walk, VivoCity #01-98/99
Pioneering authentic Spanish cuisine in
Singapore, Serenity opened its first outlet
in VivoCity six years ago and the second
outlet in Sanur Bali Indonesia. Now the
third Serenity is newly opened at Ngee Ann
City Takashimaya SC. Serenity brings you
the most authentic Spanish flavours and
culture delicious cuisine, charming
ambience and attentive, friendly service.
Must-tries at Serenity are Signature
Suckling Pig (Cochinillo Asado), delectable
Spanish Rice Dishes (Paella), Spanish
Noodle Dishes (Fideuas), Palatable Soups
and, of course, Spanish Wine Cocktails
(Sangrias). The wine list contains over 60
labels of exclusive and rare Spanish wines
covering famous wine regions such as
Rioja, Rueda, Torro, Rebera Del Duero, Riaz
Bixas and Malaga. Serenity is a great place
to have business lunch, dinner and
gatherings. For dining enquiries and
reservations, call Ngee Ann City
Takashimaya SC branch (open daily
11.30am to 10pm) at 6235 9989 or
VivoCity branch (open daily 11am to 12
midnight) at 6376 8185.
Plate
Carlton City Hotel Singapore
1 Gopeng Street, Level 3
National Day Dinner at Plate
In celebration of Singapores National Day,
Plate will offer a mouth-watering dinner
buffet featuring popular hawker favourites,
including Singapore Chilli Flower Crab,
Fried Carrot Cake, Oyster Egg Omelette
and more. Available for dinner only, from
Aug 6-9, 6.30pm to 10.00pm. Adult: $49++
per person inclusive of free flow soda and
juices; Additional $18++ for free flow beer
Tiger Beer; Child (7-12 years old): $24.50++
per child inclusive of free flow soda and
juices; Children aged 6 years old and below
dine for free. For enquiries and
reservations, please email
f&b@carltoncity.sg.
wine& dine
with BTWeekend
LOCAVORISM
Chef Skenes (below)
is obsessed with
using ingredients
only from the Bay
area; (right) smoked
trout; (bottom) sea
urchin. PHOTOS:
BONJWING LEE
ATTENTION TO DETAIL
Dishes are prepared with an effortlessness that belies the
amount of work behind it; (above) Fire in the Sky Beet
Pickled rose petals; (left) Anchovy Beignets
THE ONE TO WATCH
Saison was once dissed for serving pricey
US$248 menus but it now offers US$398
Discovery menus without a whisper of dissent
Reach out to more than 100,000 readers daily in the Wine & Dine Scheme. Contact Amy Leo at 6319 2129
L8 destination dining THE BUSINESS TIMES WEEKEND SATURDAY/SUNDAY, JULY 26-27, 2014 THE BUSINESS TIMES WEEKEND SATURDAY/SUNDAY, JULY 26-27, 2014 destination dining L9