Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and

Soaps
Volume 3
Cosmetics
Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics
and Soaps
Volume 3
Cosmetics
NINTH EDITION
Edited and revised by
Hilda Butler
Consultant in Cosmetics
IUIII SPRINGER-SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, B.v.
First edition 1923
Reprinted 1976, 1979, 1984
Ninth edition 1993
1993 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht
Originally published by Chapman & Hall in 1993
Typeset in 10/12 pt Times by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong
ISBN 978-94-010-4650-3
Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study,
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UK. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the terms stated here
should be sent to the publishers at the London address printed on this
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The publisher makes no representation, express or implied, with regard
to the accuracy of the information contained in this book and cannot
accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that
may be made.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data
Butler, Hilda.
Modern cosmetics. - 9th ed. 1 edited and revised by Hilda Butler.
p. cm. - (Poucher's perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps; v. 3)
Updated ed. of: Modern cosmetics 1 by W.A. Poucher. 8th ed. 1975.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-94-010-4650-3 ISBN 978-94-011-1482-0 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-94-011-1482-0
1. Cosmetics. I. Poucher, W.A. (William Arthur). Modern
cosmetics. II. Title. III. Series: Poucher, W.A. (William
Arthur). Perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps; v. 3.
TP983.P723 vol. 3 1992
668'.5 - dc20 92-30592
CIP
Contents
Contributors vii
Preface x
Foreword xii
PART ONE
1 Antiperspirants and deodorants
Brian R. Cuzner and Philip Klepak 3
2 Bath and shower products
Anthony L.L. Hunting 27
3 Dental and mouthwash preparations
Stephen Mason 64
4 Depilatories, masks, scrubs and bleaching preparations
Kenneth Morris 91
5 Face powders
Sue Hurst 109
6 Hair treatments
F.l. Mottram 130
7 Hair shampoos
F.l. Mottram 170
8 Hair colourants
Bryan P. Murphy 194
9 Lipstick
D. Max Bryce 212
10 Manicure preparations
Mitchell L. Schlossman 243
11 Men's toiletries
Ahmed l. Sahir 258
vi Contents
12 Pressurized dispensers
David Page
288
13 Rouges, blushers and eye cosmetics
Angela Janousek 308
14 Skin preparations
Grace Abamba
335
15 Soap
Michael Willcox 393
16 Sunburn and sunscreen preparations
Laurence W. Ashley 405
PART TWO
17 Analytical methods
Douglas C. Cullum 443
18 Efficacy testing of cosmetics and toiletries
Marion Roberts 491
19 Emulsion theory
John L. Knowlton 534
20 Legislation and safety regulations for cosmetics in the United
States, Europe and Japan 556
Louis G. Santucci and Jennifer M. Rempe
21 Microbiological control of cosmetics
Hilda Butler 574
22 Safety
John D. Middleton 607
23 Stability testing
John S. Cannell 620
PART THREE
24 Historical background
Hilda Butler
639
25 Perfume and the manufacture of consumer products
Norman J. Van Abbe 693
26 The psychology of fragrance
Jean Ann Graham 728
Index 740
Contributors
Grace Abamba
s.c. Johnson
Milton Park
Egham
Surrey TW20 9UH
UK
Laurence W. Ashley
Technical Service Manager
Boehringer Ingelheim
Ellesfield A venue
Bracknell
Berkshire RG12 4YS
UK
D. Max Bryce, FRSC
Long Eaton
Derbyshire
UK
Hilda Butler, FRSC
Northwood
Middlesex
UK
John S. Cannell, FRPharmS
Eastleigh
Hampshire
UK
Douglas C. Cullum
Hillside Bush Way
Heswall
Wirral L60 9JB
UK
Brian Cuzner
Managing Director
Wilfrid Smith, Ltd
Edgware
Middlesex HAS 7ET
UK
Jean Ann Graham, PhD
Psychological Research Consultant
Prestatyn
Clwyd
North Wales
UK
Anthony L.L. Hunting
Micelle Press
12 Ullswater Crescent
Weymouth
Dorset DT3 5HE
UK
Sue Hurst
Managing Director
MiDAS
40 Colney Hatch Lane
East Finchley
London NlO 1DU
UK
Angela Janousek
Director, Technical Resources
Quest International
Ashford
Kent TN24 OLT
UK
viii Contributors
Philip KJepak
Director, Technical Services
Reheis Inc.
Berkeley Heights
New Jersey 07922
USA
John L. Knowlton
Principal Scientist
Johnson and Johnson
Cosham
Portsmouth P06 4RL
UK
Stephen Mason, PhD
Senior Section Head, Oral
Products Europe
Colgate-Palmolive
Division of CKR S.A.
Avenue du Parc Industriel
B-404I Milmort (Herstal)
Belgium
John D. Middleton
Toxicologist
Quest International
Kent TN24 OLT
UK
Kenneth Morris
Principal
London Institute of Beauty Culture
36 Dean Street
London WI V 5AP
UK
F.J. Mottram
deceased
Bryan P. Murphy
Section Head, Exploratory
Development
Clairol Research Laboratories
2 Blachley Road
Stamford
Connecticut CT 06922
USA
David Page
Product Research Manager
Smith Kline Beecham
Weybridge
Surrey KT13 ODE
UK
Jennifer M. Rempe
Suite 300
110II7th Street, NW
Washington DC 20036
USA
Marion Roberts
Head of Consumer Product
Evaluation
Toxieol Laboratories Ltd
Bromyard Road
Ledbury
Herefordshire HR8 ILH
UK
Ahmed I. Sahir
Roxborough Avenue
Isleworth
Middlesex TW7 5HG
UK
Louis G. Santucci
Viee President, International
Affairs
CTFA
Suite 300
110II7th Street NW
Washington DC 20036
USA
Mitchell L. Schlossman
Tevco Inc.
110 Pamponio Avenue
South Plainfield
New Jersey NJ 07080
USA
Norman J. Van Abbe, FRPharmS
Esher
Surrey
UK
Contributors ix
Michael Willcox
Technical Director
Standard Soap Co. Ltd
Croda Cosmetics and Toiletries
Ashby de la Zouch
Leicestershire LE6 5N G
UK
Preface
Cosmetic Science has developed greatly since the publication of the 8th
edition of this textbook in 1974. Although the first part of this volume still
consists of chapters about product preparations in alphabetical order,
each product category has been revised and updated by a specialist. An
outline of the biology, structure and function of skin, hair, teeth and
nails and the reasons for the need for cosmetics are given in those
dealing with the relevant preparations. Throughout, the word Cosmetics
includes toiletries and thus all products which protect, cleanse, adorn,
and perfume the human body, and combat body odour and perspiration.
The 'f' spelling for the element 'sulfur' and its derivatives has been
used following the recommendations of the International Union of Pure
and Applied Chemistry (IUP AC) and the decision taken by the Royal
Society of Chemistry (RSC) and the British Standards Institute (BSI) to
use 'f' instead of 'ph' in all their publications. This stems from the
derivation of the use of the 'f' from Latin and its use in England until the
15th century.
Deionized water has been used in the formulations because many
manufacturers standardize the water supply to the factory by removing
cations and anions by exchange resin treatment. This lessens the variation
in ionic content which can occur in the mains water. A typical design for a
water supply of constant quality in factories, which can be tailored to
fit local conditions, was described for the Max Factor Company by
N. Wheeler and J. Kilsheimer in the Water Documentary issue of
Cosmetic and Toiletries in 1983. The properties of the water supply and its
treatment are also discussed elsewhere, especially in Chapter 15, page 403
and Chapter 21 page 595.
In most formulae the quantities for preservatives and perfume are
indicated by 'q.s.' - quantum sufficit. It would be unwise to be more exact
when the actual quantities depend on the results of research on each
formulation where differing raw materials, methods and conditions of
production will occur. In some formulae the main ingredients already add
up to 100 and the preservatives and perfume appear as extras - q.s. When
Preface Xl
these two are determined as a result of tests and the two quantities are
significant then an equivalent amount can be deducted from the largest
ingredient present to maintain the total at 100.
These tests at the development stage will be described by the chapters
in the second part and give an idea of the research needed to produce a
safe, stable and successful product which is acceptable to Governments
and Consumers alike. This would have been appreciated by Poucher
who at the end of the preface to the 6th edition, advised: 'keep the
formulations simple' and 'give the experiments long shelf tests, with
frequent observations before finally approving a formula'.
In a previous volume Poucher included a historical sketch. This has
been retained and brought up to date in the present edition, followed
by a chapter of advice on perfuming products, and finally one on the
psychology of fragrance. My thanks are due to the authors who have
spent so much time and trouble in providing their contributions; and to
all others who have helped to make this book possible.
Hilda Butler, Editor
1992
Foreword
There can be no doubt as to the importance of cosmetics and cosmetic
science - this edition of Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps is at
once powerful evidence of the importance of its subject and of the
detailed study of its applications. Cosmetics are as old as mankind
itself. Even in the most primitive societies the use of deodorants and
decorative cosmetics was universal, and the same basic objectives
remain unchanged today although the means employed to further them
are now far more complex and are scientifically based and controlled.
The importance of the subject fully warrants the increasing attention
being paid to it in recent years and this new edition of Poucher illustrates
both the advances made to date and direction of further progress. Mrs
Hilda Butler is to be congratulated on her provision of a volume both
practical and fascinating as well as comprehensive and I commend it not
just to the practitioners of cosmetic science but to all chemists interested
in the practical development of their science.
Lord Todd OM, FRS
Cambridge, 1992
Editor's note: Lord Todd is Patron of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists