Climbing 2014 04

PACK
TECH TIPS SMART
3:1 HAULING
SYSTEMS
AVOID LIGHTNING
STRIKES
GEAR
GUIDE
176
DESIGN
LAB
BEHIND THE
SCENES AT
PATAGONIA,
EDELRID,THE
NORTH FACE,
TRANGO,
AND MORE!
CLIMBER-TESTED
PRODUCTS & TIPS
BOULDERING, SPORT,
TRAD, ALPINE, BASECAMP
CHOOSE THE
RIGHT GEAR
$5.99 US / CAN
APRIL 2014
DISPLAY UNTIL
MAY 6, 2014
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gEar guidE
2014
ben fullerton
Some of our 2014 favorites:

an award-winning pack,
high-performance shoes, and
a value-packed rope.
issue 324
On ThE COvER:
Law student and tester hale
Melnick ventures onto the money
pitch of the Kor-Ingalls Route
(5.9+) on Castleton Tower, Utah.
Photo: Andew Burr
14 Editors choicE
Celebrating innovation, utility, andabove

allstraight-up awesomeness, here are our
10 Editors Choice winners.
23 BouldEring
Whether youre training at home or heading
out for a weekend trip, this gear will improve
your pebble-wrestling game.
31 sport
Top-of-the-line shoes, a two-in-one rope, a
surprisingly smart chalkbag, and more for the
bolt-clippers among us.
44 trad
For this gear-intensive discipline, nd a haulworthy crag bag, the low down on new hardware,
and the years best belay device innovation.
55 alpinE
Keep your racks light, ropes dry, ascents
quick, and feet happy with these comfortable
and durable high-country winners.
62 BasEcamp
Staying the night? Whether its car camping
at Shelf Road or a backcountry bivy in the
Tetons, heres the stuff to make camp home.
75 clinics
The skinny on removable bolts, reading
mountain weather, 3:1 haul systems, and
packing for the long haul like a pro.
contents
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*ALL gEAR PhOTOS WIThIn ARE COURTESy OF ThE MAnUFACTURER. ALL CLIMBIng And SCEnIC
ShOTS WIThIn ThE gEAR REvIEWS ARE By ThE ILLUSTRIOUS AndREW BURR.
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|1
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LEADING SINCE 1970
WHATS YOUR FAVORITE PIECE OF GEAR THAT COSTS

LESS THAN $20?
In cold temps: my no-name stainless steel
thermos full of Bengal Spice tea. In warm
temps: trucker hat.
EDITORIAL
Editor
SHANNON DAVIS
Art Director
JACQUELINE MCCAFFREY
Grabber Hand Warmers. Good

for all shoulder-season sports!
Chalk. Always more, more, more chalk!
Senior Editor
JULIE ELLISON
Editor at Large
DOUGALD MACDONALD
No. 4 Wild Country Rock. The

go-to piece on my nut rack.
Senior Contributing
Photographer
ANDREW BURR
Nut toolcleans cracks, removes

booty, and open beers.
Staff Photographer
BEN FULLERTON
Tablet Media Specialist
CRYSTAL SAGAN
Intern
CLAIRE RICKS
My Nalgene!
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MOST OF THE ACTIVITIES DEPICTED HEREIN CARRY A SIGNIFICANT
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My Spyderco Bug SS
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Collapsible REI
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An ancient Campmor polypro balaclava.

More warmth for weight than anything
but 850-ll down, wicks like crazy, and
indestructible through its rst decade.
adv:fablabweb.com
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Your Passion,
Our Mission:
Zamberlan, reliable partners in
outdoor adventure since 1929
Your climb requires a reliable and versatile alpine boot, and the
Fitz Roy delivers with a lightweight, flexible, and compact design.
The Zamberlan Vibram Mulaz sole with built-in semi-automatic crampon
compatibility provides exceptional underfoot stability and traction,
while the full rubber rand and microfiber/Ceramic Cordura uppers
offer puncture-resistant protection in a lightweight package.
Gore-Tex membranes guarantee your feet stay dry.
Conquer your challenge with confidence; conquer it with Fitz Roy.
hand-crafted in Italy
since 1929
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Zamberlan USA Inc. 888-745-4774 www.zamberlanusa.com
Discover the difference
editors
note
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We Love This Job
Gear maven and editorial MVP Julie Ellison rounded up more than 50 climbers to eld-test equipment so we
could bring you the expert reviews within this issue, the only gear guide on the newsstand dedicated to the sport of
climbing. Meet our all-star team, hear their best gear advice, and then turn the page to nd the right gear for you.
Jean Belanger
andrew Bydlon
Sam Calahan
Years climbing: 3
Tip: Duct tape. I x everything with that shit. Or tent
patches to get fancy.
PaiSley CloSe
Years climbing: 17
Tip: Keep extra layers in a
separate stuff sack to protect them from sharp gear.
dylan Connole
Paul Creme
liz drummond
Cory Fleagle
dougald maCdonald
hale melniCk
kate mittendorF
Bryan naniSta
kevin Pereira
Years climbing: 4
Tip: Isopropyl alcohol and a
nylon scrub brush make old
shoes super grippy.
alton riChardSon
Years climbing: 6
Tip: Put your gear away every time so you can inspect
and deal with any damage.
Brennah roSenthal
kel roSSiter
dave Sheldon
gary SorCher
zaCh SwaSman
Briana valoroSi
Years climbing: 22
Tip: Lube cams and biners
with super-ne graphite
powder.
Years climbing: 10
Tip: Pull your rope through a
stful of damp rags to clean
and inspect it.
Years climbing: 4
Tip: A quick x for a split in
a shoe is to melt the rubber
back with a decent lighter.
Years climbing: 20
Tip: Take a pair of needlenosed pliers to a wonky zipper and squeeze each side.
4|
Years climbing: 3
Tip: If youre a photographer
and hauling, look for the
lightest and fastest gear.
Years climbing: 6
Tip: You can replace a
busted trigger wire on a cam
with 2mm cord.
Years climbing: 4
Tip: Buy used climbing
shoes for the gym or other
training, to tear up.
Years climbing: 22
Tip: Use a little sunscreen
or cooking oil to lube your
cams and biners in the eld.
Years climbing: 23
Tip: Repair holes in your
pack as soon as they happen
to make it last longer.
Years climbing: 10
Tip: Properly store your
gear; its so simple, but
ofen neglected.
Years climbing: 35
Tip: Keep everything out
of the sun as much as possible. UV is a gear killer.
Years climbing: 2
Tip: Color-code your bags:
red for rst aid, yellow for
food and snacks, etc.
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2014 gear guide
Years climbing: 6
Tip: Keep your gear out of
the dirt, which will wear
things out prematurely.
Years climbing: 15
Tip: Keep your rope clean
and your cams lubed, especially in the desert.
Years climbing: 8
Tip: Use a rope bag, and yell
at people when they put
your rope on the ground.
Years climbing: 2
Tip: When I get something
new, I prep it for use by waterproong and washing.
THEY CAN SWIM

BUT THEY
CANT HIDE
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ASCEND FS12T KAYAK

Ascend fishing kayaks are built by fisherman, for fisherman and they're made in America. So fish with the
confidence that goes with being aboard a craft built with all your needs in mind. With features like convenient
rod holders, tackle storage and a place to put your catch, this is everything a fisherman could want in a kayak.
Available at Bass Pro Shops, basspro.com and other fine retailers.
FACEBOOK.COM/ASCENDGEAR
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ADVENTURE TESTED
flash
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2014 gear guide
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Facundo
Langbehn Ferro
once Upon a Time (V3 R)

black mountain, california
Fifeen years ago, thousands of

people watched Chris Sharma
climb at Black Mountain in the
1999 bouldering lm Rampage,
and many credit this lm for
jump-starting the American
bouldering craze, as well as
turning Black Mountain into a
Southern California pebblewrestling hotspot. Over the
past few years, the area has
experienced a new wave of
development spearheaded by
locals, including Ian MacIntosh
and Alan Moore. Its known
for granite highballs (think 25
feet and up) and somewhat
sandbagged ratings (Mountain
Project suggests that newcomers leave their egos at home), so
its not for the faint of heart. This
aesthetic problem is particularly
challenging because it features
a 40-foot chasm on one side of
the landing and a 60-foot drop
on the other. While that adds
a serious sweaty-palms factor,
combined with the 7,500foot elevation, it makes for a
spectacular view that goes on
for miles. Photographer and local
Devlin Gandy calls it one of the
most classic, iconic climbs in
the area.
DevlIn GAnDy
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Scott Adamson
Unnamed
Zion national Park, Utah
During a two-week rst ascent

binge in early February, Scott
Adamson and Angela VanWiemeersch, with the help of Matt
Tuttle, climbed more than a
dozen major new ice routes in
Zion National Park, Utah. Bushwhacking for hours through the
rough high country, the climbers
fought their way to remote
canyon rims, rappelled in, and
climbed back out. More than half
of the new routes are 400 feet
or longer. Many were super-thin
(as in less than an inch) for long
stretches, leading to dangerous
runouts in an area where retreat
or rescue would be extremely
difcult. Most of the climbs,
including this beauty, have not
yet been named. Senior Contributing Photographer Andrew Burr
says this might be the greatest
water-ice discovery in the U.S. in
the last 10 to 20 years.
ANDreW BUrr
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10 | 2014 gear guide
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Scott Bennett
Africa (5.10+)
El Chorro, Spain
While the route itself isnt

known for its difculty, the oneof-a-kind approach denitely
ups the intimidation factor. To
get to the route, one must cross
El Caminito del Rey (The Kings
Little Pathway), a dilapidated,
man-made walkway that follows
the contours of the limestone
cliffs. This via ferrata was
started in 1901 and completed in 1905 so workers would
have easy passage between
hydroelectric plants at Chorro
Falls and Gaitanejo Falls. Today,
its mainly used by climbers to
access the numerous routes
that line the gorges heavily
featured walls, and the locals
recently installed an additional
cable for increased safety. The
journey to this particular wall,
El Chorros infamous Africa
Wall, doesnt stop there. Afer
the bridge, climbers must crawl
through a small tunnel that goes
into one side and comes out the
other side of the wall, and then
rappel 60 meters down to the
river. Once youre there, the only
means of escape are swimming
downriver or climbing out. Then
comes the easy part: climbing
various beautiful limestone
cracks on traditional protection.
With the canyon on each side
and river down below, it doesnt
get much wilder than this.
FOREST WOODWARD
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FLASH
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Carlo Traversi
Unnamed
Brione, Switzerland
Swiss photographer Stefan Schlumpf

and American pro climber Carlo Traversi
have been friends and partners since they
rst met at Hueco Tanks, Texas, in 2010.
During a recent trip when Traversi worked
a problem called Vecchio Leone (V12) near
the Verzasca Valley in southern Switzerland,
the pair were on the way home afer a day
of climbing and shooting when Schlumpf
spotted a striking highball directly above the
river. He asked Traversi to climb the problem
(Traversi later called it easy, but keep in
mind this V15 crushers standards) just for a
photograph, and Traversi obliged, demonstrating the beauty of an ideal climberphotographer relationship. The Verzasca
Valley became well-known in the 1990s
because a bungee-jumping scene from the
James Bond ick GoldenEye was shot there.
Verzasca is also a world-class destination for
hikers and outdoor enthusiasts because of
its dramatic landscapes, polished rocks, and
natural pools.
VISUALIMPACT.CH / STEFAN SCHLUMPF
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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Straight up
When you climb fast in the mountains and bring almost nothing,
everything you carry and what you carry it in takes on critical
importance. Patagonias
new Ascensionist technical packs
are straight up, utilitarian and versatile, with essential features that matter
most to alpinists and nothing more. Available in 25L, 35L and 45L.
patagonia.com/speed of light/techpacks
So sweet. Joel Kauffman on the first ascent of Super Domo (with brother Neil and Mikey Schaefer), a stunning
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eight-pitch line named for a favorite flavor at the scoop shop in El Chaltn. Patagonia, Argentina. MIKEY SCHAEFER
2014 Patagonia, Inc.
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editors choice
ANDREW BURR
Innovative, smart, lust-worthy, and just plain cool: 10 new must-have products that topped our testers lists
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awards
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editors choice
awards
RAKKUP IPHONE APP
BOULDERING
SPORT
GPS-based crag guides
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
EDELRID MEGA JUL

do-it-all belay device
16 |
mode locks the rope off and keeps you

from moving down unless you put the
nose of a carabiner in a specialized hole,
and then use the biner as a handle to lever the device, which allows the rope to
move through and you to move down.
The one teeny-tiny nitpick is that its
best to have someone show you how to
use the device since its so uniqueor
watch a video: climbing.com/megajul.
The app is free, but the prices of guidebook

downloads vary; rakkup.com
$35; scarpa.com/edelrid
COURTESY OF APPLE (IPHONE)
Once we nally got our hands on one

of these nifty little tube-style belay
devices, our testers were over the moon
for its unbeatable versatility and additional stopping power. Its light (2.3 oz.),
and the smartly designed shape makes
it bite down on the rope during a fall
just like an assisted-braking belay device
(think Grigri or Cinch). You get all the
features of an auto-blocking tube (tworope rappels, guide mode for following,
belaying) with the increased safety of
those other mechanical devices. When
my partner took the big ride off his
project in Clear Creek Canyon, it caught
the rope just as well as my Grigri, but
when we went to hop on the four-pitch
Playin Hooky, I could still use it to
belay him in auto-block mode from the
top, as well as do the four rappels, one
Colorado tester said. The Mega Jul is
made of stainless steel, which is more
durable than other tube devices that
utilize aluminum. (Take a look at your
aluminum tube-style device right now.
Chances are that there are some sharp
grooves forming on the brake side.) Plus,
it offers two rappel modes: one that
works like normal when your weight
and gravity move the rope through
the device and one that utilizes the
assisted-braking feature. This rappel
You know that moment when you get to the crag,

and you know youre in the right vicinity but you just
cant seem to nd the route you hiked in two hours
for? Weve all been there, and so have the guys over
at rakkup, which is what inspired them to create this
intensely detailed smartphone app that utilizes GPS
tracking, turn-by-turn directions, and photos to get
you directly to the base of the routeeven if that
includes fourth- or fth-class scrambling. A compass with a direction-of-travel arrow and a map that
moves with you keep your group heading in the right
direction so you can avoid wasted time and energy.
Wall and route descriptions include nearly all the
beta youd ever need, with zoomable topos, rack info,
descent info, and individual pitch descriptions. Its
similar to our other favorite app, Mountain Project,
but instead of relying on user-generated content,
rakkup uses professionals and guidebook authors to
write descriptions and gather info. Game changer:
Belay View photos that show you exactly what the
route looks like from the bottom belay stance, as
opposed to that far-away and unhelpful view of the
whole wall. The breadth of information and utility
is amazing, said one tester of the Red Rock guide. I
cant wait until they launch more areas. Thats the only
downside: Rakkup currently only offers downloads
for Red Rock, Rie, Smith Rock, and Exit 32. But more
areas are in the pipes. Interesting bonus: If you know
a crag better than anyone, rakkup will even work with
you to develop a digital guide and share the prots.
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2014 GEAR GUIDE
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LA SPORTIVA WOMENS SOLUTION
sticky-rubber Cinderella slippers
Although many lady climbers
have rocked the mens Solution
from La Sportiva since it came
out in 2006, this year the Italian
company made a few tweaks to
make it just right for the feminine
persuasion. Designers changed
the shape of the last to better
mimic a womans more slender
foot, and they tapered the Achilles. The result? The shoes wont
shift around when your feet are
in intensely delicate positions.
Other than those small changes,

this new iteration keeps all the
great features of the classic Solution: sticky Vibram XS Grip rubber,
aggressive downturn, stiff sole, a
wrap-around sock for comfort, and
the fast hook-and-loop closure
system. I didnt think there could
be a better shoe for me than the
mens Solution, until I tried the
ladies version, one 5.12 climber
chick said. It noticeably ts my
narrow, low-volume foot better,
and it feels more secure on heel

and toe hooks. Lady boulderers
at Guanella Pass, Mt. Evans, and
Rocky Mountain National Park,
all in Colorado, universally agreed
that the womens version of this
ultra-classic was an upgrade in
all departments. Not to mention
the fresh new magenta color
differentiates it from the boys
without being too girly.
$175; sportiva.com
THE NORTH FACE CINDER 40

smart, burly, simple
Traddies and sportsters alike will fall in love with
this burly daypack, just like our testers who dragged
it from Yosemite, California, to the towers of Utah,
to the Shawangunks in New York. Dont be fooled by
this haulers simplistic look; its the usefulness of the
included features and the ber-comfy carry that make
it a winner. I cant believe how good the minimalist
suspension felt on two-hour, straight-uphill slogs,
one user said of the thick, sturdy padded foam back
panel. With a at bottom and a roll-top closure similar
to a dry bag, the Cinder sits up on its own with a top
that opens extra-wide, making it very easy to load and
unload the pack and to dig around inside. Testers found
the roll-top closure quicker to open and close than
many standard top-loaders, so despite not having exterior pockets, you can still access your gear at lightning
speed. With practically nothing on the outside except

a few load-bearing haul loops, a removable hipbelt, and
ultra-durable 840-denier polyurethane-coated nylon,
this sack can also be used as a haulbag. More than six
months of weekly use has it no worse for the wear.
Compression straps on the outside make it cinchable
for smaller loads, like our tester experienced at Shelf
Road, Colorado: We walked in under sunny skies, so
all my layers were in the pack. When we trudged out in
hail and snow later that day, the pack was signicantly
less full but didnt feel clumsy or uncomfortable.
Favorite feature: one-of-a-kind hipbelt buckle that
took a minute to gure out but was easier to adjust
than anything else weve ever used.
$129; thenorthface.com
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| 17
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editors choice
awards
bouldering
sport
tenaya oasi
trad
do-it-all high performance
alpine
basecamp
petzl tikka
rXp
perfect light
every time
If you live with a headlamp on
your dome, from alpine starts to
sauting fajita meat, check out
this addition to the Tikka line
with Petzls Reactive Lighting
technologyit automatically
adjusts the intensity and beam
pattern for optimal illumination.
Its totally hands-free, said one
tester. Peer into the darkness to nd your tent, and the
beam narrows and brightens.
Look down at the topo in your
notebook, and the beam dims
and softens. The secret? A
light sensor reads the amount
of ambient light and calibrates
output accordingly. For steady
output, use the lockout feature
to dial in desired brightness. The
RXP model (pictured) boasts a
215-lumen max and a stronger
beam for distance, while the R+
($75) packs up to 170 lumens.
With nightly use in camp, our
testers were able to use the
torch for ve days with no output concerns, and then charge
it with solar panels. Going long
with no mode of recharge?
Petzl sells a battery adapter
separately. Oops: The on/off
button is small and hard to nd
with gloves on.
$90; petzl.com
Typically high-end rock shoes fall in one of two camps: total exibility
for sensitivity and precision, relying on the strength of your foot to perform, or an aggressively downturned and stiff sole that directs power
into your toes. No longer will you have to subscribe to the extremes
thanks to the Tenaya Oasi. This downturned kick keeps a stiff forefoot
(funneling power to the front) but a highly pliable midfoot (creating
twisting functionality) for ideal performance on everything from steep
to slabby. I needed some smedging-specic power and precision for
a micro-nub on Horse Pens 40s Slush Puppy (V4), and my ultra-stifes
kept slipping off. The Oasis made me feel like I was standing on a ledge,
one tester said. Their ideal balance of stiff and ex nailed it. Then I
carried them to Yellow Bluff, Alabama, for some steep sport climbing,
and on to Yosemite for jamming on long routes. Theres nothing the Oasi cant do. With a cotton-lined
synthetic upper, the shoes are easy to wear for two-hour gym sessions, and they wont stretch outone
tester is going on six months with no loss of performance or deformation.
$165; trango.com
sierra designs backcountry bed

sweetest dreams
Every climber worth his salt has at least one epic bivy tale. But if we had to use a frozen rope for a pillow,
eat dry ramen, and spoon with our stinky partner every night to avoid dying, well, wed consider taking up
surng full time. Enter the Backcountry Bed, the rst sleeping bag weve used that didnt leave us dreaming
about our cushy digs back in the van. Its also the rst zipperless bag that couples the thermal efciency
of a mummy bag with the comfort of a mattress-and-quilt scenario. Instead of a side zipper, the bag has a
large oval opening that runs from your waist to the top of your head, and a 43-inch-long trapezoidal down
blanket attached on the inside at the bottom of that slit. The blanket is oversized and meant to tuck in
around you on your sides and up to (or over, if you prefer) your head. Get in, use the large hand pockets on
the corners of the blanket to tuck it into the slots near your head, and get comfortable. To say the least, I
was skeptical that a bag with a gaping hole down to my waist would keep me warm! said one tester. But
after thriving through a week of sub-freezing desert nights, I have to say its more than legit. Ive never slept
better. Thrashers and side sleepers loved the increased freedom of movement: I didnt feel like I was suffocating on down and nylon when I slept on my side, one tester said. I had some room to roll and move
within the protective cocoon that this blanket creates. Tuck the blanket to stay warm in temps down to
the low 20s, or untuck it in muggier climates for more breathability and comfort. And the best part? No
more ddling with stubborn zippers in the middle of the night when nature is urgently calling!
600-ll: $250 (30F), $300 (15F); 800-ll: $350 (30F), $400 (15F); sierradesigns.com
18 |
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2014 gear guide
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LA SPORTIVA MOUNTAINWARE
perfect crag apparel
Picture your home crag on a beautiful weekend afternoon.
If its anything like our haunts near Boulder, Colorado, its full
of climbers wearing jeans and T-shirts. What rock climbers
really wear for a day of cragging focuses acutely on comfort
and durability. That, and the fact that the best rock climbing
days are sunny and dry, is why were clad in so much cotton.
If youre not duking it out on a multi-day climb in the alpine,
theres no reason to get Everest-ready. This is why we took so
quickly to La Sportivas Mountainware, a collection of tanks,
Ts, shorts, pants, and hoodies designed with cragging as the
focus. In many cases, theyve taken blended fabrics to add just
the right amount of stretch or quick-drying capabilities, like
our editors new favorite jeans, the Kendo, made from cotton,
Cordura, and a touch of Lycra. Testers loved so many pieces
that we couldnt narrow it down to just one or two (or even
three), so we awarded the whole line. However, there were
a few standouts. The womens Oliana Short had a great midthigh length, which laid nicely under a harness, and was modest enough not to give a show. Other favorites were the Chaxi
Pant, Kalymnos Pant, Bishop Hoody, and the Astroman Tank
that was just old school enough to be cool. From single-pitch
days in Yosemite to bouldering in Little Rock City, Tennessee,
our testers chose Mountainware more than any other apparel.
Prices vary; sportiva.com
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CLIMBING.COM
| 19
THE RIGHT
TENT editors choice awards
WorldMags.net
bouldering
FOR THE JOB
sport
FIND IT IN THE
trad
NEW HILLEBERG
alpine
basecamp
CATALOG!
the north Face thermoball

best of both worlds
Daniel Rainwater
or 40 years, Hilleberg has been making the

highest quality tents available. Conceived and
developed in northern Sweden, Hilleberg tents offer
the ideal balance of low weight, strength, and comfort.
Order our catalog for more information!
Order a FREE catalog online at
HILLEBERG.COM
or call toll free 1-866-848-8368
You hear it all the time: Down is light, toasty, and uffy but as
useless as a chocolate teapot when it gets wet. Synthetic insulations, meanwhile, are bulkier, not as warm for the weight, but still
insulate you during soak-outs. Forget all of it. With the ThermoBall
line, The North Face has created a jacket that looks, feels, and
heats like down but dries quickly and stays warm when wet. A true
game-changer in puffy jackets. This new synthetic insulation from
PrimaLoft mimics the shape of down clustersultra-ne bers
are teased into lofty, cotton balllike forms and contained in small
bafes to keep them from shifting. The heat is so instant that I
actually thought this was down, said one tester. Until it got wet
when I was ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon and it didnt lose all of
its insulating value. Then the light bulbs went off: Finally! A puffy
jacket I dont have to baby or use only in the right conditions. I
packed it for a soggy trip to the Pacic Northwest and an arid
adventure scumming up towers in Utah. A trim t was ideal for layering on top and wearing while climbing, but it wasnt so tight that
you couldnt easily get a eece midlayer underneath, and 15-denier
nylon stood up to puppy claws and light rock abrasion.
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MILLET OPPOSITE TRX 9/10
two for one!
The rope you bring to the sport
crag depends on what phase of the
redpointing process youre in: Toproping
and working a project requires a nice
fat cord while send attempts are much
better with a pleasantly skinny cord.
Instead of luggingand buyingtwo
separate lines, take the Opposite TRX
9/10, which is an 80-meter cord with
two different diameters. One end is
50 meters of 9mm thickness, and the
other is 30 meters of 10mm thickness,
so you can carry one cord for two
vastly different purposes. Not only did
our testers think this was a genius idea,
but they loved the performance of the
rope, from toproping in Rumney, New
Hampshire, to taking 15-foot falls on
Sonic Youth (5.13a) in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Millets Triaxiale braided
core has been proven in past years as a
strong and long-lasting design, and that
was no different with the Opposite. Six
months and two road-tripping sendbots couldnt get the rope to reveal
any durability aws, and it ran through
a variety of belay devices (both tube
style and assisted braking) smoothly.
Even the changeover point where it
goes from 9mm to 10mm was seamless
when moving through belay devices
and gear. It only comes in an 80-meter
version, and at an average of 63 g/m, it
weighs in at just over 11 pounds.
$300; milletusa.com
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scarpa.com/techno-x
You only get 26,320 days, more or less.

How will you spend them?
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ANDREW BURR
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bouldering
From training to approaching to sending, these 10 products have got you covered
WorldMags.net
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ARM RELIEF
bouldering
MASSAGER
SPORT
EDITORS CHOICE AWARDS
TRAD
forearm therapy
ALPINE
BASECAMP
LA SPORTIVA WOMENS SOLUTION

favorite shoe gets a feminine update
A tapered heel and a new last shape t narrow and low-volume lady feet
much better, and the aggressive downturn, excellent rubber, and world-class
design of the original Solution make this a top performer for anything steep.
The Womens Solution is the climber girls version of a sticky-rubber Cinderella slipper. Read the full review on page 17.
$175; sportiva.com
EVOLV ICEMAN
thoughtfully featured midsize pad
By thinking outside the box, designers
built a crashpad that ignores standard
closure systems (ap or metal buckle and
strap) and instead employs a completely
simple but effective setup. Two-inch-wide
Velcro straps on the top, bottom, and side
slide through large, rectangular loops, and
then fold back to attach directly to itself
almost identical to the hook-and-loop closures of most Velcro shoes. The one thing
I hate about bouldering is constantly opening and closing your pad to move from one
spot to another, but the Iceman was way
faster and easier to use than every other
24 | 2014 GEAR GUIDE
pad in my quiver, one diehard boulderer

said after taking it to pebble-wrestling
hotspots in Colorado, Utah, and California.
Other pads with strap systems force you to
hook the buckle, and then tighten, which
is sometimes difcult with a too-small and
slippery webbing strap that gets stiff when
dirty. The Icemans genius straps close
and tighten in the same movement. At
just under 7.5 pounds and with a 32 x 42
coverage area, the Iceman is excellent for
after-work sessions or as a ll-in pad.
$135; evolvsports.com
WorldMags.net
No one knows muscle pump, fatigue,

and the resulting frustrations like climbers
do, and now theres a portable solution
that offers relief through self-massage.
The A.R.M. is a 26-ounce contraption
that looks like a piece of As Seen on TV
exercise equipment gone wrong. But its
actually very simple and effective: Sit
down and put your leg through the large
hole at the bottom. Use the Velcro strap
to adjust how much pressure you want,
stick your arm through, and move the
device back and forth along your forearm.
Whether you do it before, during, or after
climbing hard, this nifty setup improves
circulation (which de-pumps you),
loosens overtrained muscles, and helps
eliminate trigger points (small knots
of muscle tissue, common in climbers
forearms where all these tiny muscles
are needed for the innite ways we use
our hands). One tester carted the A.R.M.
to Bishop, California, and Horse Pens 40,
Alabama, saying, When I feel the pump
coming onwhether its after my rst
problem or my tenthI do about two to
three minutes of gentle rolling, and after
that I feel loose and ready to crush.
$65; armreliefmassager.com
WorldMags.net
know
Transgression Board
this
crashpads
1. Pads are made
with two types
of foam: stifer
closed-cell foam is
more durable and
is used as a thin
sheet on top (and
sometimes on the
bottom) to disperse
impact, while
thick, squishy
open-cell foam is
sandwiched in the
middle to cushion
falls.
high-level hangboarding
A lot of thought went into this
board. In fact, a Spanish climbing
coach with a masters degree in
sports science created it to accompany a training program she
devised for intermediate to advanced climbers. It has an overhanging design with eight edges
that vary in depth from 6mm
(trust us, thats small) to 18mm,
plus a large, comfortable jug at
the top. With more than 10 years

of research, including endorsements from Europes top climbers,
backing creator Eva Lopez product, the theory is that you should
train just under maximum effort so
you can see gains without getting
injured. One tester loved the uniform style of hanging on smaller
and smaller rungs, I could actually feel improvement week after
week and was able to mark my

progress solidly because I could
hang on ever-smaller edges. The
polyester resin is comfortable to
train on, and if the edges are too
sharp for your liking, the board
is designed so you can le them
down to your own personal
ergonomic taste.
$330; holdz-on.com
2. Burly shell material is crucial as

pads get dragged
over rock, roots,
and dirt.
3. A common closure system is large
aps, which keep
anything stufed
into the pad secure,
but they can be
more complicated
to close. Buckle/
strap systems are
easier to close, but
they wont keep
loose items inside
the pad.
4. Go for a beeer,
padded waistbelt
and shoulder
straps if you hike a
long way or carry a
lot of gear.
5. Most pads are
a bi-fold design,
meaning theres
a hinge in the
middle that creates a soft spot in
the landing zone.
Many manufacturers are mitigating
this with uniquely
angled hinges that
keep the landing zone uniform
throughout.
MeTolius session Pad

workhorse mat
Eight months of weekly testing throughout the West
has put this pad to the top of my gear pile, one tester
said of the Session. Its the one mat I take every time.
From lling in uneven landings in Hueco Tanks, Texas,
to being a stand-alone landing zone for the at ground
of Guanella Pass, Colorado, this pad proved its worth
through versatility. The 45-degree-angle hinge offered
extra protection and prevented the ankle-twisting dead
zone in the middle that some bi-fold pads have. Burly nylon outer fabric has stood the test of time and maximum
abuse, with no tears or pulls despite the harsh treatment of being trundled down talus elds, raked across
sandstone slabs, and dragged through mud and snow.
Testers lauded the small carpet in the middle of the pad,
which was just enough to wipe my feet but not so much
that the entire top of my pad collects dirt and grime. The
ap closure system kept everything packed inside secure;
plus, a small stash pocket on the ap was perfect for keys,
phone, and wallet. With a nine-pound weight and a comfy
hipbelt/shoulder strap system, youll barely feel it on your
back, even for long hauls up to alpine blocks.
$149; metoliusclimbing.com
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climbing.com
| 25
WorldMags.net
bouldering
interview
SPORT
Mark Anderson
Product Designer,
Rock Prodigy Training Center
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
ROCK PRODIGY ELITE PACKAGE

comprehensive training tools for the everyman
Stop whatever cobbled-together exercise
regimen youve concocted and check out
brothers Mike and Mark Andersons thorough
and extensive training system, ideal for the busy
weekend warrior who needs efcient exercises.
This package includes a hangboard, The Rock
Climbers Training Manual, and a pulley system,
a unique part of the Andersons routine. The
Rock Prodigy Training Center hangboard is designed for very precise and specic movements,
to be used in conjunction with the pulley
system so you dial in the exact right amount of
body weight for each grip position. The twopiece structure of the hangboard is perfect because it allowed me to custom t it to my own
6-foot-2-inch wingspan, one tester said. Another customizable feature are the variable-depth
rails that are shallow on one end and deep on
the other; not only does this mimic real rock,
but it allows you to vary the difculty level as

you improve. Pure brilliance: By positioning the
pinch grips so they point straight down (back of
your hands up), you train only forearm strength
and not compression muscles (e.g., your chest)
like with other hangboards that force a sideways
grip (back of hands out to the sides). One tester
said she felt twice as strong on pinches (her
former weakness) after training with the Rock
Prodigy for three weeks. The hangboard comes
with workout guidelines, but to maximize
training, the book is a must-have accessory. It
covers every aspect of climbing, from footwork
to mental strategies, and one gym-fanatic tester
deemed it the most comprehensive training
book Ive ever seen.
$179 (Elite Package), $120 (hangboard), $37
(pulley system), $29 (book); trango.com
After 12 years of training on various hangboards, Mark Anderson

eventually found all of them
inadequate for his short-ontime training style. Anderson
is known for putting up hard
climbs (up to 5.14) throughout
Colorado, and he doesnt get the
chance to climb outside much or
train in a gym, so his goal was to
maximize the amount of training
time he does have. I believe that
the hangboard is a fundamentally awed concept the idea that
one size ts all. I really reject that
idea, he says. The two pieces
allow for versatility to t a variety
of skill levels (beginner to expert)
and a variety of body shapes and
shoulder sizes. He wanted to
ofer holds of every single type,
including pinches that actually train nger-pinch strength
and not large chest muscles like
most pinches. He also wanted to
ofer two or three sizes of each
hold type, so he made variablesize holds that can be located
by small raised ribs in the hold
itself. This allows for recreating
the same difculty every time.
SCARPA STIX
powerful performance
Slippers are usually reserved for crack
and slab climbing, when you want the
exibility of a sock and the sensitivity
of an almost-bare foot, but that doesnt
really lend itself to the power needed
for bouldering and steep sport climbing.
Leave it to genius rock shoe designer
Heinz Mariacher to change the game by
creating a stiff and ber-downturned
Velcro- and lace-free shoe aimed at
high-end climbers. As a boulderer, Ive
always scoffed at slippers, but the Stix
easily competed with my favorite topnotch rock shoes, one Colorado tester
said after carrying them to Yosemite,
Joes Valley, Utah, and Little Rock City,
Tennessee. A stiff forefoot and X-tension
randing system transfer energy into the
pointed toe for grabbing and pushing off
26 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
pockets and nubs. And dont worry

about the Stix for intense heel and toe
hooks: This is the only true slipper
Ive used where popping off or shifting
when I tenuously hung on my heel
was a non-issue, one tester said. The
secret is in the elastic band that runs
over the top of the foot and keeps the
shoe incredibly snug. Smart addition:
Its reinforced with thermoplastic strips
that add stability and durability. That
combined with the synthetic-leather
upper mean the shoe will keep its
shape over the lifespan. One tester has
climbed dozens of boulder problems
and 40+ pitches with no deformation
and no stretching out.
$149; scarpa.com
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bouldering
know
this
SPORT
TRAD
rock shoes
ALPINE
BASECAMP
FIVE TEN TEAM VXI

sensei of sensitivity
Swoon alert! The Team line from Five Ten has always boasted maximum exibility, but this iteration takes it to
a whole new level. Plus, the Stealth Mi6 rubber was the stickiest in comparison to other kicks right out of the
box. While these puppies are ideal for strong-footed climbers on steep routes and roof boulder problems, they
also stood out on slabs, like the runout section on J Crack (5.9) in Lumpy Ridge, Colorado, and the numerous
less-than-vertical granite faces Yosemite. Paste your foot anywhereabsolutely anywhereand it will stick,
one smitten user said. Zero stiffness throughout means you can get maximum contact between rock and rubber.
Our testers sized down as much as two full sizes from their street shoes; the pliability of these Teams make them
easy to put on and wear. Most testers found the best t one size down. One tester even called them the most
comfortable high-performance rock shoes hed ever worn. Note: You will have to learn how to curl your toes and
use the strength of your foot initially if youre accustomed to stiffer shoes. Achilles heel? While the rubber was
among the stickiest wed ever used at rst, after a few weeks, it was similar to other high-end rubber compounds.
$170; veten.com
1. In most cases,
comfort and performance have an
inverse relationship: High performance for steep
climbing means
less comfort, and
ultimate comfort
for long routes
means less performance. This gap
has closed in recent
years, but take it
into account for the
type of climbing
you do most often.
2. Flat-lasted shoes
with thick rubber
(4.5 to 5mm) are
great for edging
and will give your
feet support for
all-day routes.
3. Downturned
and asymmetric
(pointed toe) lasts
are excellent for
anything from vertical to overhangs.
These direct power
to your toe for tiny
pockets and nubs.
LAPIS WOOD BOARS HAIR BRUSH

updated classic
Lapis boars hair brushes have long been the
premium tool to remove chalk and other gunk
from holds, but weve seen countless broken
half-brushes discarded in gyms and at the bases
of boulders. (What happened to leave no trace,
people?) Bristles intact, these leftover pieces are
forgotten and useless because the plastic handles
have snapped off from aggressive brushing by
boulderers who dont know their own strength,
28 |
getting stepped on, or even just being dropped

and forgotten. The new wood version not only
cleans holds that left other brushes looking as
weak as a feather duster, but it has also withstood
outing after outing, crammed into packs and
crashpads. And the bristles? Still good as new after
nearly six months of use.
$10; libertymountainclimbing.com
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
4. Certain brands
will t specic foot
types better than
others, and sizing
between brands
varies, so nd a
brand that works
for you. Find more
reviews on
climbing.com/gear.
5. Rock shoes
should be tight
but not painful,
especially in the
beginning. Aim
for a shoe that
contacts your foot
completely, with no
dead space in the
toe or heel.
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Salewa CapSiCo
approach shoe turned slip-on
The sideways glances our testers shot each other said it all: They were
skeptical. Is this an approach shoe or a Croc? said one. The beauty behind this kick, though, is that its both. You get a supportive shoe for the
hike in and something thats easy oneasy off for the two dozen times
youre squeezing into and out of your rock shoes. The Capsico offers a
sturdy, sticky rubbersoled approach shoe that turns into a comfy clog
with the ick of a wide rubber band. On crumbling, rocky approaches
in Joes Valley, Utah, and Red Rock, Nevada, testers positioned the band
in the back and tightened the cinchable laces for reliable scrambling,
but once at the crag, they could put the band in the front and fold
down the back of the shoe for a cozy slip-on. This is two shoes in one,
meaning I can pack less stuff, one tester said. Plus, the Capsico is more
like foot therapy than my usual go-to, imsy ip-ops. Thats thanks to
the wide forefoot, which gave cramped toes room to spread out and
breathe, and a rubber toe bumper kept them stub-free. While a touch
loose for steep sidehilling, they are worthy hikersone tester carried
a 20-pound pack on long approaches in Indian Creek and Castle Valley,
Utah. Olfactory alert: Too much barefoot use may result in earlierthan-anticipated funk, as one tester reported. Socks recommended,
especially for the hike in and out.
$109; salewa.com
Tr y it...
youll
like it!
interview
Enrico Bucciol
Product Designer, Salewa Capsico
The inspiration for this approach shoe-cum-clog came from the
pain that climbers put their feet through on a daily basis. Italian
Enrico Bucciol says, Climbers are a little crazy in that they accept to sufer when they climb to get performance, but when you
nish your route, you desire comfort to recover your painful feet.
We wanted to guarantee that comfort after a climb, but a shoe
that was only comfortable wasnt going to stand out or be successful in the market. Thats where the smart solution of getting
two shoes in one came in. About two and a half years ago, we
had the idea of this transformer shoe, and the team immediately
started sketching and creating prototypes. The heel belt holds
the foot in place when walking up or downhill, and the laces
attach to pieces of webbing that run directly down to the sole
[instead of attaching to holes in fabric]. This adds structure and
support to the upper every time you cinch the laces down. The
Capsico added something unique to the racks that was missing.
We know your climbers will

love the TRUBLUE Auto Belay.
Try one (or a couple) at your
climbing gym risk-free for up
to two months!*
*OFFER VALID FOR PUBLIC/COMMERCIAL CLIMBING WALLS ONLY. HEAD RUSH
TECH RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DETERMINE ELIGIBILITY FOR THIS OFFER.
CONTACT US FOR FULL DETAILS AND REQUIREMENTS.
RENT TO OWN PROGRAM NOW AVAILABLE!
WorldMags.net
www.autobelay.com
877-565-6885
Designed for climbers, engineered for safety.
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sport
ANDREW BURR
Project-worthy gear to improve your

bolt-clipping game
WorldMags.net
editors choice awards

bouldering
WorldMags.net
interview
sport
Marc Gutirrez and Jos Luis Gallego

Product Designers, Tenaya Oasi
trad
Marc Gutirrez and Jos Luis Gallego live and breathe rock
climbing. So its not surprising that the inspiration for the
Oasi came while climbing on the Mediterranean coast after
a discussion about wanting a shoe that had the right balance
between beauty, functionality, and comfort. The perfect shoe,
Gallego says, would be the one that ofers the ideal response
to what the foot demands, which is comfort, efciency, and
the right performance in any situation. According to him, a
climbing shoe doesnt need to be painful since it wont respond
to your foot if it hurts. After two years of hard work in research
and development, the Oasi was born, representing all of these
features. Designers had the goal from the beginning to make
a highly specialized shoe thats versatile at the same time, one
that would make climbing more intuitive. By including stifness
in some areas and exibility in others, this shoe meets that goal.
The small details like guring out the width of the shoe and
adjusting the strap system were constantly tweaked. Reaching
a point where the Oasi is aggressive and balanced at the same
time, with a wide range of responses, and always with comfort,
was something difcult to achieve, Gallego says.
alpine
basecamp
mountain hardwear hueco 35

sturdy all-purpose pack
This little hauler was excellent for everything I threw in it,
our main tester said of this midsize pack. With 35 liters of space,
it was the perfect t for moderate-weather days of sport, trad,
and even ice. He threw it around at sandstone crags in Utah and
at New Hampshire destinations with their trademark unforgiving
schist, and he was consistently impressed with how the 840-denier ballistic nylon stood up to all kinds of abuse. I was surprised
how much I used the outer handle on the back; it was perfect
for the grab-and-go movement from route to route, he said. The
beefy but ventilated CoolWave suspension mimics that of a much
higher-volume pack, so our tester was still smiling under loads up
to 35 pounds. A few of the extras were unique and useful, too:
A separate lid that unzips to accommodate a rope or a helmet,
including a special V-shaped strap to hold either in place. Ice tool
loops on the bottom increased the versatility, and two water
bottle pockets on the outside left more room inside for necessary
gearand made it easy to hydrate on long approaches.
$130; mountainhardwear.com
32 |
tenaya oasi
max versatility, max performance
Theyre stiff yet supple, and that perfect combination gives them a better feel and more uses than
all the other high-performance rock shoes out there.
Plus, the brilliant lacing system ts a wider variety of
feet. Read the full review on page 18.
$165; trango.com
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
WorldMags.net
know
BLUEWATER WAVE 9.3
skinny size, fat function
If youre looking to slim down
in rope size but have been hesitant because of durability concerns, look no further. By upping
the amount of sheath on the
rope with a super-tight braided
structure, you get more stiffness, less op, and ultimately a
longer lifespan. While the core
still provides the strength of
your cord, a denser sheath will
add rigidity so it has a thicker
feel without added width or
weight. It also means more material standing between the core
and agents of abrasion. Thanks
to that tight outer material,
This rope slid through gear like
water through a sieve, so it was
great for long routes where rope
drag would otherwise be an
issue, one tester said. Despite
the thin diameter, which usually
means more dynamic elongation, the stretch on this was
minimal when one tester took
about seven falls at the crux of
Horizontal Mambo (5.13a), Potash Road, Utah. I would deem
the slogan of this rope, Worry
less, climb more! he said. Feel

free to take this on long slogs to
the crag, too, as its 56 g/m, so
the 60-meter version weighs in
at a mere 7.4 pounds. Bonus: Its
rated as a half rope, too.
$183 (60m);
bluewaterropes.com
this
ropes
1. All modern
climbing ropes
have an inner core,
which gives a rope
its strength, and
an outer sheath,
which protects the
core.
2. Thick diameter
(10mm and up)
means more
durability. Thin
(8.6mm to 9.9mm)
means less
weight and easier
handling, but also
more stretch and
quicker wear.
DMM AERO QUICKDRAW

easy clipping
Watch your friends around these because
they will get permanently borrowed, one tester
warned after a few weekends sport climbing in
Boulder Canyon, Colorado. These are all about
clippability. With a unique bent-gate bottom
biner, the bend is more dramatic and lower on the
gate, so it receives the rope smoothly and naturally;
one tester felt like she fumbled way less with these
quickdraws. Both the straight- and bent-gate biners
are sturdy keylocks, with a smooth prole on the
noise that prevented snagging when removing from
bolts. Plus, grooves on the gate itself provided
extra grip for thumbs and other ngers when
clipping and unclipping. We loved these draws as
our everyday set, with enough thickness and burl
in the dogbone that you could grab them when
necessary and condently climb on them regularly,
but theyre not so heavy at 3.9 ounces for the 12cm
version that youre adding lots of weight to your
setup. Also available in 18cm.
$21 (12cm), $22 (18cm); dmmclimbing.com
3. A primer in
single, half, and
twin ropes: A
single rope is
just that and is
sufcient for most
climbing. Half
(or double) ropes
are skinnier than
singles. You tie into
both but clip each
into separate pieces
of protection,
handy on wandery
routes and for long
rappels (hello,
alpine). Twin ropes
are even skinnier,
but they must both
be clipped together
into every piece.
Not many Americans use them, but
twins ofer security
if rope-cutting is a
concern.
4. Dry treatments
repel water and
increase protection
against dirt and
abrasion.
5. Learn when
to retire a rope:
climbing.com/
retire-gear.
EDELRID HMS
STRIKE SAFELOCK
twice the safety
This belay biner earned unanimous
praise from our test team. With Edelrids unique slide-gate locking mechanism, the biner automatically locks
itself when closed, and you can unlock
it with a simple ick of your thumb
no twisting, screwing, or secret-switch
locating. That leaves your other ngers
to lift the inner anti-cross-loading gate
that runs across the bottom. Not only
does this inside bar keep the belay
biner from cross-loading (a dangerous
situation where the biner is sideways
hence, less safeon the belay loop),
but it also provides a second locking
mechanism for the carabiner by propping the gate closed. This anti-crossloading double locker is as safe as it
gets, one tester said. One gripe is that
it took a few times to get used to having to lift the inner gate just to open
the biner, but it quickly became second
nature. And, as Edelrid describes it,
the opening procedure is deliberately
complex, so it wont accidentally open
in any situation.
WorldMags.net
CLIMBING.COM
| 33
WorldMags.net
VOLTA 9.2
Tie in to a new level of performance.
9.2 mm multi-standard lightweight rope.

The VOLTA 9.2, part of Petzls completely redesigned rope line, is the cord for the
most demanding users. Lightweight yet durable, and rated for use as a single, half,
or twin, it provides for exceptional performance at the crag and in the mountains.
Learn more about our all-new line of ropes on www.petzl.com/ropes
WorldMags.net
awards
WorldMags.neteditors choicebouldering
lowa red eagle
sport
stif sole, sharp toe

I love these, I love these, I love these! one overly caffeinated 5.13 climber said after climbing
multiple hard routes in Colorado. Their edging ability is unbeatable, he said after redpointing
Anarchitect (5.12d) in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado, which requires a balancey crux on the tiniest
of footholds. Credit the moderate downturn supported by a super-stiff midsolemuch more rigid
than other kicks in the top-notch league. The aggressively pointed toe and vacuum t gave power
and precision to the entire foot, making them ideal for vertical and slightly overhanging routes. And
theyre easy enough to wear for a few back-to-back routes in the gym. Tried-and-true Vibram XS
Grip rubber lines the sole for excellent purchase on all types of rock, and after 100+ pitches its still
going strong. An anti-bacterial Bio-Active lining combined with perforations in the upper enhance
breathability while also regulating odor and keeping the Red Eagles from getting that nauseating
rock shoe stench. Despite being a very stiff shoe, they were comfortable with no break-in period,
but keep in mind that rigidity does limit sensitivity.
trad
alpine
basecamp
$165; lowaboots.com
mammut infinity
classic 9.5
bargain skinny rope
When a respected rope manufacturer sets out to
make an all-around cord that is friendly to every type
of budget, this is what we call a win-win-win situation. The 9.5mm diameter is ideal for toproping and
projecting when it will experience substantial abrasion and abuse, but its light enough at 57 g/m that
on a 30-meter pitch, youll only be dragging about 3.7
pounds behind you at the very top. Testers thought
this rope felt and handled like a skinnier cord, too:
It was easy to clip, even in my teeny-tiny ultra-light
biners, one tester said. Because of the Innity Classics excellent all-around performance and bargainbasement price, this rope is ideal for those looking to
make the leap into sub-10mm ropes. Mammut saved
cost by skipping the dry treatment, which is a pricey
process that makes ropes suitable for ice and snow
but can be unnecessary for people in drier climates
who stick to only rock. For handling, durability, and
overall feel, this rope competes with the best of
the best, and its unheard of to offer such a quality
line at such a low price, said another trad and sport
climbing user.
$150 (60m); mammut.ch
petzl Kab
new take on a classic design
At rst glance this pack looks just like a bike messenger bag, but pull back the
large top ap on it to reveal a spacious 55 x 55 rope tarp and a voluminous
bucket for gear. Petzl says it holds up to 110 meters of rope, and since none of our
testers carry that much cord (we tested with 70m cords), they lled the rest of
the space with sport rack, shoes, and water; and inner and outer sundries pockets
were great for keys and phone. It was just enough to hold all the days necessities
for a warm day of climbing. Sport climbers appreciated the urban style of the Kab
combined with the technical functionality of other tube-style rope bags on the
market. With a hipbelt strap usually reserved for actual bike messengers, the Kab
stays in place if you are on uneven terrain (or on a bike). Although the padding
on the single shoulder strap did carry comfortably for short jaunts, we wouldnt
recommend it for long slogs where youll probably want a larger pack anyway.
$50; petzl.com
WorldMags.net
climbing.com
| 35

BOULDERING
sport
TRAD
WorldMags.net
MAMMUT
REALIZATION PANT
the perfect climbing pant
ALPINE
BASECAMP
EVOLV NEXXO
sharmas new shoe
Theyre soft, aggressive, and t like a customized glove, one tester said who
loved the Nexxos overall feel and response after taking them to pocket paradise
Ten Sleep, Wyoming. The Nexxo shined on the slabby then super-steep Aunt
Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome (5.12+), requiring both delicate edging and powerful pulling. After experiencing their breakout performance, our testers were
not surprised to learn that Chris Sharma is the man behind this sport-specic
slipper hybrid. (Evolv calls it a hybrid because although it is constructed like a
slipper, the Velcro strap offers more security and a vacuum t.) The Nexxo has
some of the same features as the Shaman (the rst shoe from Sharma), which
made it a favorite high-performance shoe, including the Love Bump that pushes
toes into an arched and precision-improving position, and the Knuckle Box that
makes this position fairly comfortable (and not torturous). These shoes started
out stiff and difcult to put on, but after a few wears, they began to ex and
provide increased sensitivity more on par with other slippers. Credit Evolvs new
Power System (EPow) that provides tension and support while maintaining some
malleability, especially in the toe and forefoot.
Nothings perfect, you say? Try these on. For

starters, theres a harness built directly into these
bottoms. The Realization Short came out last
year, and we loved that iteration for their gym and
warm-weather-cragging appeal, but for those who
prefer climbing outside when temps plummet, the
pant version was a top pick for our testers. I was
worried I would feel like I was wearing an adult
diaper, but the integrated harness feels and moves
seamlessly, one lady tester said. With a baggy t
on both mens and womens models, they offered
unbeatable range of movement for agging, hooking, and step-throughs at Shelf Road, Colorado. The
harness waistbelt and leg loops are connected by a
mesh liner, so the entire rig maintains its shape and
each component stays where its supposed to be;
leg loops wont ride up into your nether regions.
The inside of the contact points with the harness
are a soft microeece, and our testers found they
were an absolute pleasure to wear and beyond
convenient. Same caveat with the pants as the
shorts, though: Youre wearing your harness all the
time, no matter what, so to take off your harness,
you gotta take off your pants.
$230; mammut.ch
interview
Fritz Shaefer
Product Manager, Mammut Realization Pant
As a manufacturer of both harnesses and climbing apparel, it seemed
obvious to try and combine a harness with shorts, Fritz Shaefer says.
Mammuts idea for the pants came from the shorts, which came from
a college thesis statement in 2008 by then-student and now current
designer Benno Reichard. He wrote about the possibility of integrating
a load-bearing structure into a pair of shorts. In 2011, after the rst prototypes had passed a standard fall test, Mammuts team began climbing
with them in the gym and outside. In the beginning, we had no idea
whether all this would work and if the nal product would perform at
all, Shaefer says. But after sponsored athletes came back with positive
reviews, the designers knew they had created a successful product for
the highest levels of climbing. The biggest change from the original
idea was realizing that the material of lightweight shorts alone would
not be durable enough for repeated falls, no matter the design, so they
integrated a webbing harness into the shorts instead. The durable material still breathes well and feels nice on the skin with a mesh liner for
temperature control. Shaefer says, Its something innovative that ofers
striking benets compared to standard harnesses; we simply went about
doing it in an unexpected way.
36 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

BOULDERING
sport
WorldMags.net
TRANGO REACT DRAW
durable project quickdraw
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
know
this
harnesses
1. Adjustable leg
loops are great for
ice climbers and
mountaineers who
need to accommodate layers;
xed leg loops save
weight.
2. Measure your
true waist (above
your hips) to nd
the correct size.
3. It should be
snug but not tight,
so you can move
freely. Make sure
all the straps are
cinched down (and
doubled back if
necessary) with a
few extra inches
of tail.
4. Big wall and
trad setups have
max padding for
hours of hanging. Sport rigs are
lighter with just
enough cushion to
soften falls.
5. Features vary by
discipline: number
and orientation of
gear loops, haul
loop, belay loop,
ice-clipper slots,
and drop seat (for
easier bathroom
breaks).
38 |
EDELRID CYRUS
streamlined comfort
Minimalist-harness fans are going to wonder why
they spent so many years cutting off circulation to
their legs by hanging in rigs that skimped on material to cut weight. Edelrid took a different approach
by using textiles that were inherently lighter so a
larger amount could be included without weighing the whole thing down. They call it 3D-Vent
technology, but its more or less a layer of thin foam
wrapped in mesh, with supportive, stiff webbing
strips that wrap around your torso and legs, adding
some rigidity and only a little bit of weight. Both
the hipbelt and the leg loops are ultra-wide to
maximize the contact zone, which prevents pressure
points, but the mesh and perforations in the foam
keep the harness extremely light and breathable.
It feels more like sitting in a padded chair instead
of a complicated pattern of webbing, like other
harnesses, one tester said. Another factor that contributes to comfort is the ergonomic shape of the
hipbelt and leg loops: They taper out slightly at the
top and the bottom, so they wrap around your esh
when the harness is weighted, instead of digging in.
Four stiff, plastic gear loops are suitable for racking
whatever your route requires, and a zippy single
buckle closes and opens fast.
Replacing our old favorite Trango Smooth draw,

the React has a similar build with reliable keylock
carabiners, bent gate on the rope end, and a thick
dogbone for easy grabbing when you need to do
a quick clip or are looking at a sketchy fall. The
React has two notable updates over the Smooth,
though: a rubber carabiner keeper on the bottom
that prevents it from ipping over when trying to
clip the rope, and more notably, bar-tacking on the
whole bone that stiffens the draw signicantly for
hard-to-reach clips. The 17cm version of this draw
is a godsend for us shorter folks, one 5 tester said
after reaching for high clips at Shelf Road, Colorado.
Instead of using my ghetto-rigged homemade
stife, all of these draws have built-in rigidity. They
gave me a bit more peace of mind for trying hard
routes with difcult clipping stances. The price of
each draw is about $4 less than similar models, too.
$19 (12cm), $19.50 (17cm); trango.com
METOLIUS GRIP GLOVE

airy belay gloves
One great way to be a better belayer instantly? Get a pair of gloves. Youll increase
your stopping power, which is ever more important as ropes get skinnier and skinnier.
Plus, youll have increased protection from sharps your rope might have attracted (like
goat heads or cactus spines) on its way to your hands. Gloves do have a small downside, though, particularly in summer months: It can get hot in there. And swampy! The
answer? The Grip Glove. The huge swath of stretch nylon across the back makes these
among the most breathable weve used. After a summer of chasing shade in Boulder
Canyon, chasing sun in Rocky Mountain National Park, and a fall that included sundrenched trips to the Utah desert, I got everything I want from a belay glove without
any drawbacks, praised one tester. The main body is made of supple goatskin, while a
split cowhide reinforces key wear spots on the palm and thumb. After ve months of
use, our tester reports no uncommon wear. Bonus: nice price.
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
WorldMags.net
OFFICIAL
PARTNER
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www
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

BOULDERING
sport
TRAD
ALPINE
BASECAMP
ARCTERYX APERTURE
no-spill chalkbag
You could take an old jeans pocket and a length of twine and make a passable chalkbag. Thats why we review so few of themits usually just a matter
of splitting hairs about fabrics. Not so with the downright revolutionary Aperture. Its the only chalkbag Ive ever used where chalk blowout is not a concern, said one tester. Just twist the top of the bag a turn and a half and snap
it shut. Chalk stays put, even when shoved in a pack. The sub-three-ounce
bag is made from a burly nylon on the base and a thin ripstop polyester on the
twistable portion. A stiffened rim keeps the bag wide open, and a plastic belt
attachment is shaped to double as a beer opener. Ding: After seven months of
use, our tester reported wear and tear (literally) along the rim of the opening
and on the twistable portion. But its still his favorite chalkbag.
$29 (small), $35 (large); arcteryx.com
SCARPA VITAMIN
light but burly approach shoes
MILLET OPPOSITE TRX 9/10

one rope pulls double duty
With 30 meters of 10mm rope on one end
and 50 meters of 9mm cord on the other,
youre getting two different ropes that any
committed sport climber needs: his trusted
fatty for taking tons of falls and a lighter,
skinnier rope for send attempts. Read the
full review on page 21.
$300; milletusa.com
One tester described these as a paradox, They wear like running shoes, but
theyve been sturdy, stable, and durable throughout my testing. A polyurethane
midsole was dense enough to provide all-day support and shock-absorbing
comfort when our tester took them to Venezuela for a boulder-nding mission.
They were my go-to shoe because of their technical climbing abilities, stability
to prevent foot fatigue, and ultimate comfort at the end of a long day, he said.
A huge climbing zone of at, non-lugged rubber on the front toe and inside
forefoot made these shoes feel reliable and agile on anything between fourth
class and 5.5, and large lugs in the heel provided excellent purchase on loose
descents. Despite several long days in the Vitamin, a lining with 37.5 technology (formerly Cocona) wicked sweat from the foot and thus prevented odor
buildup. These shoes t wide-footed testers slightly better, but with the suede
upper that molds to your foot and lacing down to the toe, you can dial in a
perfect t by cranking on the laces. Wear them all day, and then rock them at
basecamp; this is your quiver-of-one approach shoe.
$199; scarpa.com
40 |
interview
Laurent Bouvet
Product Designer, Millet Opposite TRX 9/10
What do two French best friends talk about when
they go climbing at the local crag? Climbing, gear,
and women. This is where the inspiration for
Millets innovative Opposite TRX 9/10 rope came
from. Laurent Bouvet wanted one rope that would
do it all, saying that some climbing days leave
you beat after an all-day session, while on others,
youre mindful of your energy and you come up
with new ideas to nish your project. A rope with
diferent sizes is not a new idea, but the innovation
is having a solid, standard rope on each side. This
was part of his plan, making sure that his design
would be one step beyond the ropes already on the
market. Its an upgrade of the variable-diameter
technology, but its a brand new angle of view
concerning the practice, Bouvet says. In the fall of
2012, the Millet team began testing the rope, seeing if the idea would actually work, and two years
later the innovative Opposite is out.
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

bouldering
sport
trad
WorldMags.net
omega pacific dura
draw
timestamped perma-draw
alpine
basecamp
trango antidote rope bag

compact package, big ol tarp
Holy rope tarp! At rst glance the Antidote looks like a standard tube-style rope
bag, but undo the straps to nd a cavernous opening and a massive rope tarp. At 4 x
5 the rectangular rope protector can easily house 80 meters of cord and then some.
Testers actually had no problems belaying two neighboring routes with two 60-meter
ropes with room to spare. Other tube-style rope bags have a mouth thats so narrow
its like wrestling a ferret trying to get the rope in the bag. But not the Antidote,
one tester said. The design thats wider at the top than the bottom made rolling the
rope in the tarp and then directly into the bag an absolute breeze. Two closure options at the topa cinchable drawstring and two metal hooks and webbing straps
made it so testers could secure the rope quickly when hustling between routes at
Smith Rock, Oregon. It was easy to throw around without a care thanks to one drag
handle on the side and a burly nylon outer, and two removable shoulder straps had
some nice padding to carry it like a backpack or a messenger bag.
After dozens of scary tales of hardware failing

around the world, permanent protection has come
under scrutiny at crags from New Hampshire to
Thailand. While perma-draws are not appropriate for many sport climbing areas, Omega Pacic
wanted to up the safety ante by including a small
label on the draw that allows the equipper to
write the installation date on the draw itself. (Use
permanent pen and throw a strip of clear tape on
top so it wont fade.) Age isnt the only factor you
should consider when deciding if hardware is safe
or not (one route might see 10 ascents in a year
while another route might see 1,000), but its helpful
information to have when deciding if you should
trust your life to a small piece of metal or not. The
Dura draw is made for maximum durability (hence
the name), with an all-steel construction: a bentwire gate on one end, quicklink on the other, and a
swaged, galvanized cable in the middle. Black tubing
covers the cable to protect from UV rays and abrasion, and a small crossbar inside the biner keeps it
from ipping over and making the rope hard to clip.
$19; omegapac.com
$34; trango.com
la sportiva oxygym
machine-washable rock shoe
Pay attention, gym rats! The days
of sour, funky, repugnant climbing
shoes are over. Not only are these
mid-performance shoes machinewashable (throw em in with regular
detergent and then air dry, they wont
shrink, stretch, or change shape), but
theyre also designed with sweaty,
stinky feet in mind. The upper is three
layers: a perforated outer for breathability, microber in the middle for
structure, and a wicking fabric thats
lined with silver to prevent smell and
keep you dry. These shoes were also
42 |
easy to wear for entire two-hour gym

sessions, thanks to a at (read: very
little downturn) design, a stiff, supportive 1.8mm midsole, 5 millimeters
of rubber on the sole, and a slightly
asymmetric toe. If you do want to
take these on and off constantly, two
hook-and-loop Velcro closures made
them easy oneasy off, and it was
quick and simple to dial in the t every time. Also available in a womensspecic version.
$99; sportiva.com
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
WorldMags.net
MAMMUT NEON CRAG 28
urban woodsmans crag pack
If you believe function and style go hand in hand, youll love
the Neon Crag. While it looks like a basic daypack, ip back
the lid to discover a gaping opening. It makes stufng and
locating crucial gear a cinch, and two large racking loops on
the inside offer just enough organization for quickdraws, belay
device, and personal tether. A zippered guidebook pocket on
the outside makes on-the-y beta-checks easy, like when one
tester consulted the guidebook a half-dozen times on the
way to French Cattle Ranch in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Everyone
who used it touted the clean and low-prole design that
tapered at the bottom, so when compared to other packs, it
felt like a sports car instead of a sport utility vehicle. Plus,
contoured shoulder straps and hipbelt hugged the body for
seamless carrying. The outer canvas fabric has a sleek, nontechnical look with a natural wax-based DWR treatment that
offered improved durability and function. One thoughtful
design feature was the packs pleated side panels. This enabled
the pack to compress or expand for different loads; it looks
and carries exactly the same when its lled to the brim and
when its only half-full. This is my ideal sport climbing hauler
because it has everything I need and nothing I dont, one
tester said. Doesnt hurt that its only 100 clams, either.
$100; mammut.ch
BARTLETT
REALLY VALUES
PEOPLE.
THEY CARE
ABOUT OUR
SAFETY, OUR
SCHEDULES
AND WE ALL
FEEL LIKE
FAMILY.
RAMON, FOREMAN,
HIRED 2004
Enhance your skills and advance your career with the #1 tree and shrub care
company in the world.
Opportunity grows on trees.
bartlett.com/careers
An equal opportunity employer.
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ANDREW BURR
The best new products for plug-and-chuggers
trad
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

boUldering
sport
WorldMags.net
evolv addict slipper
keep jammin in a
stif slip-on
trad
alpine
basecamp
anasazi lace-Up the pink

beloved workhorse brought back
from the dead
The Pinky is perfect, one tester said of the sorely missed pink Anasazi laceups high performance and incredible versatility. It was discontinued in 2007, but
high demand brought it back. The new version features a redesigned and deeper
heel that has a more aggressive taper toward the top, and testers deemed it
comfy but technical. It was tight enough to inspire condence on a variety of
terrain, but it wasnt so snug that testers feet were screaming after a short pitch.
Its at-lasted with no downturn and plenty stiff enough to edge and provide
support on long routes like Fine Jade (5.11a) in Castle Valley, Utah, but users were
pleasantly surprised that it was also soft enough to smear on nothing holds. I
can face climb and jam on moderately difcult routes with the same amount of
success, one tester said. Tried-and-true Stealth C4 rubber was ultra-sticky, while
the lined Cowdura upper (synthetic leather) molded to feet sans stretching
even after six months. Welcome back, Pinkies. We missed you.
List features you want in a shoe for climbing

hand cracks and youll likely nd them all in the
Evolv Addict. Theyre rigid to support your feet for
all-day wear and for protection in potentially painful cracks, but testers could still smear on delicate
outside edges and nubs. Plus, the VTR rand puts
thicker rubber in the toe area, for increased grip
on twisting foot jams and more armor for sensitive
toes. One tester took a pair on 15 pitches in a day
of crack climbing at South Platte, Colorado, and
he loved that there werent any laces, Velcro, or
buckles to get caught or to pinch his foot: I can
throw my whole foot into a crack without ddling
to reposition and without major discomfort. Generous elastic on top of the foot made them easy to
put on, and a leather upper stretched up to about
a half-size for maximum comfort after a break-in
period. Testers found they t narrow feet best.
$150; veten.com
interview
Andy Coutant and
Austin Robbs
Product Designers, The North Face Cinder
the north Face cinder 40

bombproof bucket hauler
With slimmed-down suspension and padding, this single-compartment pack carries better than most teched-out overnight
bags, and the quick roll-top closure lets you access your gear
faster than you can say off belay. Not to mention it stands up
on its own, which makes gear sorting fast and efcient. Read the
46 |
Bombproof is the one word you should use for

this new pack; the word durable was actually
criticized as underrating the bag. Every iteration
was taken to the mountains, abused, and then
brought back to the shop to make it burlier. Peter
Croft returned the rst prototype ripped in half. So
we beefed up the outer material. Then the plastic
buckles broke, so we replaced them with metal
buckles usually reserved for avalanche packs,
which must pass certain fall tests with an 8kN
rating. The shoulder straps broke down, so we put
a piece of webbing in them that connects to the
frame. That way, when you pick the pack up by the
shoulder straps, youre pulling on the entire frame.
This bag went through hell and back, returning
stronger and better than ever. Designers kept
returning to a simple idea: If we could make the
ultimate product for ourselves, forgetting about
the commercial aspect, what would we make?
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
WorldMags.net
Petzl Meteor
Metolius 000
know
Micro tcu
this
upgraded favorite
super-tiny pro
Weighing in at less than an ounce, this
triple zero is the lightest micro-cam on
the market. Its range is from .26 inches
to .4 inches, meaning it can t in places
where other pro doesnt stand a chance.
Rated to 5kN, its intended purely as
an aid piece. Our test unit was an early
model, clearly labeled not for climbing.
Full disclosure, however, we couldnt
resist scouting out a thin crack to give it a
whirl (not far off the deck, promise). The
three machined cam lobes, barely wider
than the steel cable, when retracted,
bite solidly, and the cables ex for funky
placements. Stay tuned for a full review.
helmets
1. Comfort is the
most important
factor when it
comes to buying
a helmet. If your
helmet doesnt
feel good on your
noggin, youll never
wear it.
2. Fit: It should
sit squarely on
your head, not
forward, backward,
or of to the side,
and it should feel
snug around the
forehead without
pressure points.
3. Hard shell
helmets have a
rigid outer shell
and webbing
suspension, similar
to a construction
hard hatgreat
for ice climbing,
mountaineering, and outdoor
groups. Foam
models, similar to
bicycle helmets,
are thick EPS foam
with a polycarbonate shell
lightweight and
comfortable but
should be retired
after an impact.
Hybrid helmets
are a combo, great
for all-around use,
though many have
less side protection
than foam helmets.
4. For tons of info
on how to t a helmet, developments
in design and
testing regulations,
and the best ways
to prevent head
injuries, check
out climbing.com/
news/no-brainerhelmet.
The Meteor has long

been a top helmet choice
for all-around climbing,
and this year it gets a few
more updates that make
it even better. Its always
shined as a well-vented
and lightweight brain
bucket, but by expanding
the size of existing vents
and adding a few more,
designers were able to
cut weight and make it
more breathable without
any loss of integrity. One
of the most breathable
helmets Ive worn, one tester said. Though a smart adjustment
system allowed this helmet to t a wide variety of domes, Petzl
added a smaller size (48 to 56cm and 53 to 61cm) for the most
diminutive melons. The harness nests down into the helmet
for easy packing. A soft headband molded to testers noggins
for complete comfort and admirable sweat wicking, and testers
were free of pressure points caused by other helmets. Favorite
feature: Petzls magnetic buckle chinstrap (which was rst seen
on the Petzl Sirocco, out last year) makes on and off doable
with one hand, a key trait for climbers of all types.
$100; petzl.com
Wild country Pro Guide lite

small change, big diference
Auto-blocking tube-style devices have made multi-pitch climbing
much easier and safer as long as theyve been around, but the biggest caveat has always been lowering the follower if he gets stuck or
needs to move down for whatever reason. Wild Country xed that
problem by offering a much larger hole that can be used with almost
any non-locking carabiner (and small lockers) on the market. These
devices with guide mode are a tried-and-true design, but with the
bigger biner hole, I could easily lower my followers on anything from
a single 10.5mm rope to
7.3mm half ropes, one
tester said who took it
for rock and ice in Rocky
Mountain National Park.
(The device is rated for
7.7mm to 11mm, but our
tester found it successfully
locked with ropes down
to 7.3mm.) At 2.7 ounces,
the Pro Guide Lite is a welcome upgrade for anyone
who uses these devices on
the regular.
$30; wildcountry.com
WorldMags.net
climbing.com
| 47

bouldering
sport
WorldMags.net
petzl bolsa
rope backpack
trad
cams
treated for maximum lifespan
1. Cams t all types

of cracks, pods,
and slots, but they
shine in parallelsided cracks.
Dont fret about the thin diameter on the newest rope from Edelrids
Pro Line; theyve put three different nishing treatments on it to
optimize durability. It still has a supple and exible feel, one tester
said after taking it to a new secret crag in the much-traveled Boulder
Canyon, Colorado. Pro Shield, Dry Shield, and Thermo Shield treat both
the entire unit and individual yarn bers to increase dirt and water
resistance while maintaining easy clipping, knotting, untying, and coiling. Our testers deemed this great for long days plugging gear because
the Eagle Light stood up to tons of abrasion and running over edges,
as well as catching a few big whips, and had no signs of wear. Plus, it
ran through all belay devices and carabiners like a dream. Even after
knotting it into a rats nest right out of the package, our tester found it
didnt twist up or kink once he got it properly aked.
If youve found rollup, tube-style rope bags

annoying or too timeconsuming, the Boralis
might be right up your
alley. Designers built it
as a slim-prole bullet
pack, with two narrowwebbing shoulder straps
and a top carry handle
like most backpacks
have. Testers loved the
almost automatic loading of the rope when
picking up the 55 x 55
tarp: Lifting all four
corners automatically
slides the rope into the middle, which
is where the tarp opens into the pack
itself. Its really convenient. One tester
even carried this for a day of climbing
single- and multi-pitch routes in Eldorado
Canyon, Colorado. When we were cragging, I could move it from route to route
and have a protective tarp, but when we
wanted to do a longer route and I wanted
to carry some water, I just threw this on as
a sleek bullet pack, she said. Not super
comfy for all-day routes, but for a few
pitches at a time, it was perfect.
$240 (60m); scarpa.com/edelrid
$40; petzl.com
alpine
basecamp
know
this
2. Start with about

six cams from 0.5
to 3.5, all from the
same company.
Each manufacturer
has its own sizing
range and colorcoding system.
3. Fill in your rack
with smaller and
larger cams as
you need them,
and then consider
adding doubles
(or even triples) in
the most common
sizes (0.5 to 3.5).
4. Most cams have
four lobes (two
on each side).
Three-lobed cams
are great for small,
tricky placements.
Ofset cams have
two smaller lobes
to t uneven or
ared placements.
5. Stem exibility is
important to consider for horizontal
placements when
maximum ex is
necessary; stifer
stems are more
durable.
48 |
edelrid eagle light 9.5
black diamond camalot X4 offsets

2013s favorite product gets a counterpart
We raved about last years Editors Choice Award
winning Black Diamond Camalot X4s wider expansion range, more versatile placements, and increased
durability, so its another no brainer that we would
love the complementary offsets. They have the same
larger camming range of a double-axle design with the
compactness of a single-axle design that we loved in
the regular X4, but with two sets of cam lobes that are
different sizes. This makes them ideal for any placements that arent perfectly parallel (think: pin scars
and ared cracks). Testers loved the beefy but exible
armored stem, easy trigger action, and especially the
bi-colored lobe heads and sling colors, which made
identication on even the most disorganized harness
quick and easy. Just grab and go. Five cams in the line
cover placements that range from .33 inches to 1.62
inches, with weights that go from 1.9 ounces for the
smallest to 3.5 ounces for the largest.
$70; blackdiamondequipment.com
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
WorldMags.net
interview
EdElrid PurE SlidEr
Daniel Gebel and
Richard Heinz
easy, super-fast locking biner
Heads of Development, Edelrid Pure Slider

A carabiners a carabiner, right? Wrong. After
exploring innovative locking mechanisms from
other companies, Daniel Gebel and Richard
Heinz of Edelrid started asking what other
solutions they could come up with to progress
locking-biner designs. Starting with drawings of
more than 20 diferent systems, they eventually
settled on the Slider. The team wanted it to be
lightweight and sleek, a biner you could easily
rotate through a bolt or belay device instead of
twisting or removing when you needed to adjust.
Inherently though, the main drawback of such
a new and innovative product is mistrust. The
problem is that its perceived diferently. Some
people see this carabiner not being as safe as a
screw- or twist-lock just because its smalleven
if it might have the same safety margin as every
other biner, Heinz said. Looking at the biner, its
easy to understand why. The locking system is
very simple compared to the twisting barrels of
other locking biners. But Gebel says thats ultimately what boosts safety, The biggest advantage
of the Pure Slider is the minimized size of the
locking mechanism. The smaller the surface of the
locking mechanism, the less likely it will open.
From the school of simple, light, and

ingenious comes this locking mechanism from the engineering wizards at
Edelrid. It includes a small sliding tab
on the outside of the gate near the
nose; just place your thumb over the
tab, push down and in, and the gate
unlocks and opens almost simultaneously. Its the easiest locking mechanism Ive ever used because theres no
new motion to learn, one tester said.
Its muscle memory I already have.
Since its an auto-locker, you dont have
to keep checking to make sure your
gates are locked. And at only 1.5 times
the weight of a light non-locker (1.5
oz.), you can carry a few extra on a long
route without worrying about adding
too much heft. With a minimal weight
penalty and easy-open system, theres
no reason not to pack a few, said one
tester who used this biner as the rst
clip on a sketchy sport climb in Clear
Creek Canyon, Colorado.
MiSty Mountain Sonic

all-day support
When youre pumping out 10 feet above your
last ddled-in nut, the last thing you want to sweat
about is how much it might hurt to take a fall in
your older-than-dirt harness. Don the completely
redesigned Sonic and youll be as relaxed as Willie
Nelson getting recreational in Colorado. Testers
loved it for long routes like Yellow Spur (5.10a) and
The Naked Edge (5.11a) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where tight belays forced semi-hanging stances.
I could sit in this harness for long periods without
experiencing pain or numbness, one user said. It has
extra-wide leg loops and a high-backed, supportive
waistbelt to prevent hot spots and digging. The
waistbelt also ares out on the bottom, wrapping
around hips instead of gouging into soft esh in
the midsection. A Hypalon patch in the rear of the
waistbelt adds durability for scumming and chimney
sections, and a large plastic buckle makes bathroom
breaks a cinch. An easy-to-operate buckle is crucial
for quick bathroom breaks on long routes when
youre racing daylight, one female tester said. A
full-strength haul loop in the rear and four upturned
gear loops round out the features.
$100; mistymountain.com
WorldMags.net
climbing.com
| 49

BOULDERING
WorldMags.net
know
this
SPORT
trad
belay devices
ALPINE
BASECAMP
SCARPA TECHNO X
high performance for all-day wear
This Italian shoe company proved that comfort
doesnt mean sacricing performance and vice versa
with the new at-lasted Techno X. Testers loved the
stiffness for standing on the patina akes of Skyline
(5.8) and the shoes versatility for simultaneous jamming and dime-edging on Wheat Thin (5.7), both in
City of Rocks, Idaho. I could climb easy ve-pitch
routes just as well as I could pull hard on vertical,
techy 5.11, one tester said. They had a tight feeling,
which inspired condence on tiny footholds, but they
werent so tight that I had to take them off at every
belay. This is thanks to a tension-randing system (the

rubber is stretched out as its placed on the shoe) that
places the power in your toe like a high-performance
kick, but without a downturn, these shoes remain easy
to wear. Vibram XS Edge rubber remains one of the
stickiest on the market, and 4mm thickness is enough
to protect your feet but not eliminate sensitivity.
Whatever your objective, as long as its vertical or less,
the Techno X will do you right.
$145; scarpa.com
OUTDOOR RESEARCH ANTIMATTER
1. There are two

main types: tube
style and assisted
braking. Tubestyle devices are
inexpensive,
lightweight, and
versatile, but they
rely fully on the belayer to stop a fall.
Assisted-braking
devices use moving
parts or shape to
increase stopping
power.
2. Tube-style
devices can be
auto-blocking,
where they can be
set up directly on
the anchor at the
top of a pitch. Its
called guide mode,
convenient for
multi-pitch routes.
ultra-light summit pack

Minimalist-obsessed folks will nd this delightfully simple, one tester
said of the barely there bullet bag. It holds 18 liters, which is just enough for
food, water, layers, camera, and small descent shoes, but it still packs into
its own small pocket when every cubic inch is needed in a larger pack. The
mesh shoulder straps were comfortable to wear even when the pack was
stuffed to the brim, and on warm ascents, testers never found themselves
with shoulder-strap-shaped sweat stains. Despite the almost negligible
weight of 9.9 ounces, it still has some necessary features like two outer water bottle pockets and side compression straps to keep the weight in place.
$75; outdoorresearch.com
EDELRID MEGA JUL

versatile device with added
braking power
Never choose between your versatile, lightweight tubestyle device and heavier, safer assisted-braking device again.
With the Mega Jul, you get both in an airy, durable stainless
steel package that has even more uses than both. Read the
50 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
3. Sport climbers
love assistedbraking devices for
catching repeated
falls or holding a
climber who wants
to hang.
4. Each assistedbraking device
has idiosyncrasies
and corresponding best practices.
Whatever device
you choose, it will
take some getting
used to. Research
the manufacturers
recommended
usage guidelines
and follow them
exactly.
5. Make sure your
ropes diameter will
t in your chosen
belay device,
especially as ropes
across the board
get skinnier.
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

bouldering
sport
trad
alpine
basecamp
WorldMags.net
petzl contact 9.8
outdoor research
handbrake gloves
versatile workhorse
rope
beefy, burly mitt protection
With a complete overhaul of their

rope line, Petzl is focusing on striking
a perfect balance between durability,
minimal weight, and overall feel, and the
Contact is right on the money. Testers
found this rope unusually resistant to
the rope-ruining sand and dirt of the
Moab and Indian Creek desert areas, and
one said, My ropes usually get absolutely wrecked in the desert, but after
a full week of towers, cracks, and boltclipping, the Contact still looked like
new. Thats thanks to the DuraTec dry
treatment, which not only protects the
cord from absorbing water, but it also
repels dirt, which can be the real rope
killer. Our testers climbed on it for ve
months; it never kinked or coiled, and it
might as well have just come out of the
package. A great feature we never got
to test: UltraSonic Finish welds the core
and the sheath together at the rope
ends only, to prevent fraying in the spot
where its most common. A super-great
feature we did get to test: ClimbReady
Coil means the rope is coiled and ready
to go in the packaging. Open it, ake
it, and climbno more new-rope
excitement cut short by annoying
tangled messes.
Gloves for people who dont like to use glovesand

for those that do, one tester said of this full-leather armor.
Another user called them lifetime durable after a few
months of 12-pitch days in Wyoming and California. An
extra layer of suede is positioned right across the palm and
inside of the thumb where the hands see the most abrasion
when lowering and rappelling. The ngerless design gave
testers much more dexterity so they werent fumbling
through cowhide to operate carabiners or build anchors,
and small, extended pull tabs on the middle and ring ngers
gave these hand protectors an A+ for easy on-off. Despite
the beefy construction, the gloves didnt get swampy. Fat
knuckle protection makes these suitable for aid climbing
and big walling when the backs of your hands get wrecked.
Theyre sized slightly small, so consider up-sizing.
$39.50; outdoorresearch.com
$215 (60m); petzl.com
interview
omega pacific solution nut tool
Jon Jonckers
ber-smart design in a small package
Design Committee Member, Omega Pacic Solution Nut Tool

Though there wasnt a huge outcry to change anything
about the nut tool, one of the simplest things on a rack, the
folks over at Omega Pacic decided to do it anyway. Jon
Jonckers says the initial concept and drawing started more
than a year ago after discussions with other designers while
out rock climbing or at basecamp. He says, One of the rst
concerns was to make it lighter. After that, it was all about
how many uses we can add to it. The team decided to use
thin-gauge steel and cut out two oblong shapes on the top
and bottom to save weight. They included a wrench hole
at the head for tightening bolts. Fifteen years ago, Omega
was the rst company to put a biner gate on a nut tool.
Today, another innovation comes in a simple prong on the
foot, which ts into the lobes of most cams. They sought a
solution to the oft-encountered problem that smaller cams
are harder to retrieve. We called it the Solution because
it solves more problems than just stuck nuts and cams, or
any other stuck pieces, Jonckers says.
Nut tools of yore had one main goal: remove stuck

gear, specically passive gear like nuts, which rely on
wedging and being somewhat stuck for their strength.
After several decades, though, its clear that we climbers
uses these little sticks for far more than just taking out
nuts, but their design has not updated along with their
usage. Omega Pacic stepped up to the plate by making
the Solution, which features a at end for hitting nuts,
a small nub that ts into the slots of a cam lobe, and a
wrench for tightening loose bolts. Hello, can you say
genius? one tester said of the Solution after using the
two-sided pronged end to clean out a crack of moss and
dirt. Convenient carabiner clip goes right on your harness
or a sling, and at 1.4 ounces, it weighs about the same as a
large non-locking carabiner. Another reason to salute the
designers: It doubles as a bottle opener for your postclimb brew.
$16; omegapac.com
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Theodolite
Dont start your next adventure without it.
Theodolite is a multi-function viewfinder for iPhone, iPad,

iPad mini, and iPod touch that combines a compass, two-axis
inclinometer, rangefinder, GPS, map, nav calculator, tracker,
and geo-tag photo/movie camera into one indispensable app.
Read more about Theodolite at HRTapps.com

or check out Theodolite on the iTunes App Store.
Theodolite is a registered trademark of Hunter Research and Technology LLC.

iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, iPod touch, iTunes, and App Store are registered trademarks of Apple Inc.
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
ANDREW BURR
Rock, ice, or snow, these tester-approved toys will get you to the top
alpine
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

bouldering
sport
trad
WorldMags.net
black diamond speed 55
active suspension, comfy carrying
alpine
By allowing your lower and upper body to move independently of

each another, Black Diamonds active-suspension systems have found
a home with alpine climbers. Testers were still smiling when carrying
the Speed loaded with almost 40 pounds of rope, full rack, layers,
food, water, stove/fuel for hot drinks, and all the other high-country
necessities. This pack makes the approach and descent much more
enjoyable, one petite tester said of the reACTIV suspension system
and the plentiful padding in the lumbar, shoulder straps, and hipbelt.
Credit a cable that runs from one shoulder strap through the lower
back panel to the other shoulder strap for increased lateral movement. This rucksack gives climbers the option to remove a plastic
framesheet, hipbelt, and the lid to go super light and (hopefully)
fast. Bells and whistles include ice tool attachment points, crampon
patch, and hydration compatibility. Bonus: friendly price.
basecamp
petzl laser speed

crankin is easier than ever
Hands down, the easiest screw I have ever used for starting in
hard ice, said one ecstatic tester after deploying Petzls new screws
on water ice all over Colorado. Petzl optimized the aggressive steel
teeth on the Laser series by lengthening them, and it shows with
the increased ease of placement. I rarely failed to start the screw
with just one jab, which is a real blessing when youre pumped,
another tester said. Laser Speed screws (four sizes, 10 to 21cm) have
a fold-up crank that nestles nicely against the hanger when racked
on your harness, and the Laser screws (three sizes, 13 to 21cm) are
crankless to save weight. Color-coded handles on the Laser Speeds
delineate length so you can grab the right one at a glance. Testers
loved these screws, so look out for summer 2014s newest iteration,
an even lighter version: the Laser Speed Lite, with an aluminum
shaft and hanger and inset steel tip with the same quick-biting
teeth. Our testers are already ghting over samples.
$60 (Laser Speed), $55 (Laser); petzl.com
56 |
WorldMags.net
2014 gear guide
WorldMags.net
ASOLO ALTA VIA GV
know
comfortable all-mountain boots
Twelve hours of movingwith and without cramponsand my feet

could have easily handled 12 more, said one tester after long days of ice
climbing in Montanas Hyalite Canyon. The Alta Via are light (4 pounds
per pair) but proved plenty warm. Our tester was toasty belaying even in
10F midday highs. The warm and cushy secret? A last made of 30 percent
berglass, which both insulates and supports without a weight penalty,
and a heel-locking system that wraps up and around the top of the heel
to keep the back of your foot down when frontpointing so your calves
dont pump out. They had an ideal amount of stiffness for vertical ice and
mixed climbing, but they had enough ex in the upper to stride much like
standard hiking boots on the approaches and descents. Pure comfort and
performance right out of the box.
$425; asolo-usa.com
FIVE TEN ANASAZI GUIDE

all-terrain workhorse
Thick-soled and stiff, these rock shoes wear almost like bootsand for
day-long routes in the alpine, thats a good thing. Im not going to work my
project in these, said one tester, but thats not what theyre for. These are
my top choice for long trad lines. Credit a at last for all-day comfort, the
burly leather upper for enduring the rigors of a season of scuffs and cracks,
and the Stealth C4 rubber for sticking to the tiniest of nubbins. On routes
that pack a little bit of everythingstretches of crack climbing, then slab,
then a chimney, like some of my favorite routes in the Wind Rivers, these
are the shoes to have. The rigid midsole and at toe are great for condent
edging and toe jams. Downside: Break-in time is longer than average.
$145; veten.com
this
crampons
1. The two main
types are general
mountaineering
and ice climbing crampons.
Mountaineering
pons are better
for horizontal
movement, and ice
climbing spikes are
designed for vertical climbing.
2. Make sure your
chosen boots t
the attachment
style. Strap-ons
(best for mountaineering) t all
boots; step-ins (or
automatic) require
both a toe and a
heel welt (good for
vertical ice); and
hybrids (or semiautomatic) just
need a heel welt
and are suitable for
both vertical and
horizontal.
3. Dual frontpoints
are more stable,
especially in snow,
but a monopoint
is more precise,
perfect for ice and
mixed.
4. Anti-balling
plates are small
pieces of plastic
that keep snow and
ice from building
up beneath the
crampon, which
can add weight and
make it harder to
walk.
5. Steel is more
durable but
heavier; aluminum
is lighter but less
burly. Some have
replaceable frontpoints.
BEAL UNICORE
GULLY 7.3
crazy-light half
rope
Light is right in the high country,
and the Gully 7.3mm half ropes
have the lowest weight of any
other rope on the market at 36
g/m. Yep, thats right, less than
5 pounds for 60 meters. Since
its rated as a twin rope as well,
testers took it on ice in New
Hampshire and wandery routes in
Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, and
loved the stiff and durable feel.
Even though its the thinnest
rope Ive ever climbed on, it still
felt substantial in my hands and
running through the belay device,
one tester said of the tight sheath
weave and Golden Dry treatment.
Plus, the Unicore technology
gave users extra peace of mind
in sketchy terrain. Unicore is a
thin lament between the sheath
and the core that bonds the
two together so if the rope gets
chopped, the sheath wont slide
down and expose more of the
strength-giving core. The Gullys
Golden Dry treatment, Beals proprietary process, repelled water
from drippy ice and when left in
the snow during belays.
$180 (50m), $210
(60m), $250 (70m);
libertymountainclimbing.com
WorldMags.net
CLIMBING.COM
| 57

BOULDERING
SPORT
WorldMags.net
PATAGONIA ASCENSIONIST 45
comfortable-carrying minimalist
TRAD
For years, our alpine testers and guide friends have

eschewed the lid on alpine packs (or packed it inside
the main pack body). You end up wasting precious time
ddling with bucklesno fun in cold temps, if not impossible with bulky gloves on, said one tester. Its quicker
and easier just to use the cinch-top closure. Patagonia
designers must agree (see interview). Theres no traditional
lid, rather a super-sized asymmetrical storm collar that
cinches over the top of the pack like a hood. A removable aluminum and mesh framesheet provides support for
overloads. After weighty approaches to remote trad and
mixed routes, one tester deemed this the most comfortable pack for the weight hed used this year. A stiffened,
pre-curved waistbelt puts weight right on your hips, and
the ergonomic shoulder straps balanced the load with
zero pain, he said. Testers also used the Ascensionist 25,
praising it as a light, stable summit pack.
alpine
BASECAMP
interview
Scott Bryan
Product Designer, Patagonia
Ascensionist Pack
Spring 2014 marks Patagonias
resurgence into the technicalpack market, says Scott Bryan.
2006 was the last time Patagonia ofered an alpine-specic
pack, and Bryan felt it was time
to bring it back with a minimalist, lightweight design. The
inspiration came from alpinists
who wanted a simple technical
pack in an age of overly complex
gear. After years of messing
around with prototypes, serious
development started about two
years ago by sending the bag
out to a team of ambassadors
and staf members. The primary
goal was to make sure the pack
had only the features alpinists
needed, and then to make those
features state of the art. These
included essentials like ice tool
attachments, daisy chains on
the sides, sleeves for picks, and
compression straps. After hearing from climbers that they were
taking of the lids of other packs
on expeditions, the unique
spindrift collar was designed.
Its intended to be easy to use
but very protective at the same
time. When closed, the top is
smooth to shed snow and water
so everything stays dry, and a
small pocket provides easy access to the things you need. The
shoulder straps were cut and
designed to comfortably t and
move with the torso. The team
also experimented with diferent
frames, trying to get it as light
as possible, eventually settling
on aluminum and mesh fabric.
Our goal from the very beginning was to design something
that met the demands of our
alpine ambassadors. To include
everything you need and nothing you dont.
58 |
$179 (45L), $149 (35L), $99 (25L); patagonia.com
METOLIUS ALPINE PAS

ultra-light anchor
Metolius created the PAS
(personal anchor system)
six years ago, as a safer
alternative to the common
practice of using a daisy
chain, which can fail under
static loads, to clip into
anchors. The PAS, a series
of connected, strengthrated slings, could also be
used to equalize an anchor.
Its so handy, its become
ubiquitous. The Alpine PAS
is identical in construction but 40 percent lighter.
Credit the diminutive
11mm Dyneema Monster
Sling Webbing. At only 1.7
ounces, Its virtually unnoticeable on my harness,
said one tester after multipitch forays into Colorados
Boulder Canyon. You
could use a long sling or a
few quickdraws to secure
yourself to an anchor, but I
like having a dedicated tool
for that and only that. Plus,
it racks very compactly.
Note: Unlike the PAS 22, the
Alpine PAS is not UIAA-certied and should be used
only as a personal tether.
With their lengthy, coffee grinderlike

handles, Grivels 360 screws have long been
a go-to for easier cranking in bulletproof
ice. Theyre also fantastic for maneuvering
into tight placements or around large, funky
features, but the chief complaint was they got
tangled when racked. Now, Grivel has modied
the hanger and crank so testers found they
nested better when racking multiple screws on
an ice clipper on your harness. The new hanger
is also considerably easier to clip (though you
no longer have the option of clipping it in two
orientations). The teeth were also revamped.
Compared with the older Grivels, I was a
lot more likely to get rst-time, stab-and-go
placements, said one tester. (The new tooth
design is also found on Grivels Helix screws.)
Available in three sizes (12 to 20cm).
$70; libertymountainclimbing.com
GRIVEL 360 ICE SCREW

updated ice protection
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net

BOULDERING
SPORT
TRAD
WorldMags.net
know
BLACK DIAMOND
this
MAGNETRON VAPORLOCK
alpine
tech upgrade for a

classic biner
BASECAMP
Its like mixing peanut butter and chocolate,

one hungry tester said. Combine two wonderfully
amazing things, and you get something better than
the sum of its parts. Black Diamond added their
signature Magnetron technology to a favorite allaround biner to make it even easier to use. Magnetron employs two arms on the gate to keep it from
opening, and these arms are magnetically attracted
to a steel insert in the nose of the biner. Simply
press the arms to open the gate. No twisting or
two-hands-required maneuvers. Testers universally
loved the Magnetron when it arrived on the scene
a few years ago, saying it was a super-easy locking
mechanism thats quicker and more straightforward
than technologies past. The same praise holds true.
ARCTERYX ALPHA FL 45L

bare-bones hauler
Weighing in at a super-ultra-mega-ber-light 1
pound, 7 ounces, this airy rig has the stability of
a pack ve times its weight. Its surprisingly comfortable for being, essentially, just a bucket with
straps, one tester said after taking it on two-hour
slogs in the Rockies and the Utah desert. Even
when loaded down with 30-plus pounds, it carries
like a dream. A webbing waistbelt transfers just
enough weight to the hips that the wide, canted,
thinly padded shoulder straps can balance the slender load without fatigue. Simple, climber-centric
features abound. Drape a rope over the lidless top
and keep it in place with a simple strap and buckle.
Secure ice tools with the bungee at the top and
metal toggles through the eyelets on your picks
at the bottom, while crampons nest between the
tools in a bungee web. The pack fabric is Arcs proprietary, super-bomber N400-AC2. Its designated
as highly weather resistant, but our testers found
it effectively waterproof. The main pack body
holds 32 liters, but an inner roll-top sleeve extends
for a total capacity of 45 liters. Tip: Pack dense
items low. The packs tall, narrow silhouette makes
it easy to get off balance if not packed well.
$239; arcteryx.com
60 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
ice tools
1. For general
mountaineering,
the standard is
a straight, long
shaftusually
55 to 75cmfor
walking and
shoving into snow,
with a pick thats
slightly curved for
purchase when
self-arresting.
2. Choose an ice
axe length based
on your height and
arm length. While
standing with arms
relaxed at your
sides, the spike
should not quite
touch the ground.
Steeper terrain?
Short axe is better.
Flatter terrain?
Longer axe.
3. Technical ice
tools have a curved,
shorter shaft45
to 55cmwith
removable picks
aggressively angled
down for swinging
into vertical ice.
For versatility, get
modular heads that
you can switch out.
4. Ice tools have a
rubber grip (some
with a pinky rest),
and some have
a double grip so
you can choke up
on the tool for a
higher reach or
matching.
5. Few use leashes
on vertical ice anymore, but consider
an umbilical leash
(rated bungees that
connect tools to
your harness) for
long routes.
WorldMags.net
LOWA FALCO LACES
alpine comfort, sporty performance
A darkhorse of our shoe
testing, this lace-up got tons
of high-country use from
Wyomings Wind Rivers to
Colorados Front Range.
Two testers also rocked
these for 5.10 crack climbs
in Indian Creek, In Search
of Suds (5.10+) on Washer Woman Tower, Utah, and the Kor-Ingalls
Route (5.9+) on Castleton Tower, near Moab, Utah, and both were
impressed by the level of performance they got out of this slightly
downturned stife. The last pitch on Washer Woman is a balancing, edging, smearing scarefest, but I felt condent with my Falcos
on, one of them said. Lowa is using a proprietary rubber called
LC SuperGrip that fared just as well on limestone, sandstone, and
granite as other compounds. The interior boasts an anti-bacterial
lining to mitigate stench. Consensus? Minimal odor after ve
months of use. Both testers were able to crank the laces all the way
down for jamming at the Optimator Wall in the Creek, but loosen
the shoes enough to wear with thin socks when temps dipped into
the 30s. Extra rubber up and over the toe was ideal for stufng feet
into hand cracks, too. Durability ding: Stitching on one testers shoe
started coming undone, but it was after six months of use.
SALEWA FIRETAIL EVO GTX

approach shoe king
When European boot maker Salewa hit the American market four
years ago with their blister-free guarantee, we were skeptical. Now,
after testing no fewer than nine different models, from mountaineering boots to casual kicks, without so much as a hot spot, we are major fans. The Evo has enough support to hike comfortably to backcountry basecamps with 45-pound loads and enough grip and agility
to scamper up talus and slabs to access routes, said one tester. The
secret sauce? A multi-t footbed insole option enables you to dial
in a custom tuse both insoles, one, or none to nd just the right
volume. An EVA midsole combined with a PU heel wedge provided
the just-right balance of cushioning and support. To-the-toe lacing
means you can lock down your toes for more technical terrain. And
the Vibram outsole latches to trail features and bare rock with ease.
Bonus: At 1 pound, 8 ounces per pair (mens 9), theyre light enough to
rack on your harness for descents. The Firetail Evo GTX is another hit
single on Salewas increasingly classic album.
$140; lowaboots.com
$149; salewa.us
FIND A GUIDE
AMGA.COM
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BECOME ONE
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BOULDERING
SPORT
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LA SPORTIVA MOUNTAINWARE
TRAD
ideal cragging clothes
ALPINE
basecamp
ICEBREAKER QUANTUM LONG

SLEEVE HOOD
versatile, no-stink comfort
Hands down one of my absolute favorite layers, said one tester
who wore it on desert sandstone and long routes in the Wind River
Range of Wyoming. Its the offspring of a long-sleeve baselayer and
a lightweight jacket, with optimal comfort and a super-functional
t. Ninety-eight percent of the material is midweight, 260-gram
merino wool for warmth, a soft next-to-skin feeling, and breathability, while the other two percent is Lycra, which adds a touch of
stretch and ex to the body-hugging piece so you can climb, reach,
and twist without restriction. Best part: One tester wore it on ve
multi-week adventures without a single wash, and it never smelled.
$190; icebreaker.com
MARMOT ESSENCE
afordable ultra-light shell
At a mere six ounces, the weight of
the Essence embodies the name. But
dont go thinking its a lightweight. This is
one bomber, take-everywhere hard shell.
Testers found it completely waterproof
for downpours in the Pacic Northwest,
and they billed it as mega-durable after
scraping it against granite in the Cascades.
It still looks perfect, the tester said. The
lightweight key is in the 2.5-layer new
NanoPro Membrain fabric incorporated
into a stripped-down shell (open slits
instead of pit zips, non-adjustable cuffs,
single chest pocket), which wont weigh you down. Not to mention the weight-to-waterproof-to-cost ratio is unbeatable.
$200; marmot.com
Our testers best-loved

and most-worn rock climbing
clothes of the season. From
hoodies to jeans to tanks,
the focus is on comfort, durability, and mobility in the
vertical world without being
unnecessarily teched out.
Just exactly what a climber
needs for cragging. Read the
Prices vary; sportiva.com
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR CHOCKSTONE

MIDWEIGHT ACTIVE PANT
wear-everywhere softshell bottoms
A single complaint from our smitten tester: I only have
one pair, he said of the versatile pant. Durable outer
material (91 percent nylon, 9 percent elastane) couldnt
be deterred by sharp sandstone, granite, or limestone,
despite wide cracks in Colorado and chimneys in Utah,
and a Micro-Chamois-lined waistband prevented pressure
points where our tester carried a pack and wore a harness.
A double-gusseted crotch added more range of motion
on top of the four-way-stretch fabric. A DWR nish
repelled moderate wind and rain, and the pants remained
comfortable in temps from 30F to 65F.
ARCTERYX MORPHIC ZIP NECK LS

cool-weather one-piece
Who needs a layering system when one piece does it all? The Morphic
wicked sweat, dried quickly, and has a smooth, tightly woven face that
didnt pill after four months of abusive wear. Proprietary Phasic AR-X fabric
is tough and breathable, but Enduraex added to high-wear areas upped
the burl factor. One tester loved the
very trim t that rode well under a
harness and the deep chest zipper that
increased airow. Silver-covered polypropylene yarns mitigated odors, too.
Find more apparel reviews on the Gear channel on

climbing.com, including a comprehensive guide to the
best womens-specic clothing.
64 |
WorldMags.net
2014 GEAR GUIDE
$89; arcteryx.com
apparel
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Athletes like Chris Sharma use Sterling
ropes to undertake some of the most
astonishing and challenging adventures
on the planet. Because every climbing
experience is diferent, we strive to make
ropes that perform fawlessly under any
conditions. We have the worlds most well
respected climbers using and evaluating
our products. We review the data and listen
to our testers, getting them involved to gain
better insight on how our ropes perform.
Thats why Sterling developed Better
Braid Technology. This multi-level
process involves the highest quality fbers
state-of-the-art equipment, , innovative
engineering, continual testing and
improvement, and a certifed quality
control system. We do this as part of our
ongoing quest to make rope and cord
products that meet the highest standards.
Better Braid Technology is one way our
products elevate your experience. Where
you choose to take them is up to you.
Evolution Velocity | 9.8mm | 62 g/M
WorldMags.net
www.sterlingrope.com
1-800-788-7673

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bouldering
sport
trad
alpine
basecamp
rakkup
guidebook
meets GPS
This iPhone app
gives you turn-byturn directions, a
compass to guide
you, and photos to
get you from your
car or camp to the
base of your climb.
Wall and individual
route explanations
are packed with
beta, including
zoomable topos,
rack info, descent
info, and pitch
descriptions. Read
the full review on
page 16.
light and Motion

solite 250eX
four-in-one torch
Its almost a disservice to call this a headlampits that
and much more. Mount it on a helmet, use it as a ashlight,
or x it to bike handlebars for winter-night gym commutes.
Its a quiver-of-one light, one tester said. From rides to
the gym to nding my way down a tricky descent trail, the
Solite does it all. With a max output of 250 lumens and six
settings (including pulse, SOS, and camp/read), this little light
will illuminate whatever you need thanks to a variety of beam
shapes and patterns.
$180; lightandmotion.com
Zippo hand warMer

cold mitts be gone
A must-have for shoulder-season cragging, said one tester
with perpetually frozen paws. And dont get me started on
how awesome it is for ice climbing. Fill this compact unit
(smaller than an iPhone) with lighter uid, and then light it
up for 12 hours of heat. Downside: You cant turn it on and
off, so its best for when it can be tended to (read: cragging
and bouldering, not multi-pitch). One tester slid it inside the
included warming bag and then slid that into the bottom of
her chalkbag to warm her tips for winter rock climbing.
courtesy of apple (iphone)
$20; zippo.com
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PETZL TIKKA RXP
the right light
This addition to the Tikka line automatically adjusts its output and
beam for the best lighting wherever you look. Peer into the darkness to
nd your tent, and the beam
narrows and brightens. Look
down at the topo in your
notebook, and the beam dims
and softens. Its hands-free and
perfect in all conditions. Read
the full review on page 18.
$90; petzl.com
GOAL ZERO SHERPA 100 POWER PACK

charge your whole world
This compact, one-stop shop for solar power has a variety
of ports and options to charge any battery-powered device.
It has two USBs, a 12V, and a laptop-specic port. Headlamps,
phones, tablets, laptops, and mp3 players can get juice from this
sub-two-pound power pack. Using the Nomad 20 solar panel,
our testers got a full charge in about 10.5 hours in full Utah sun,
and rell time for each device was comparable to wall charging.
One full Sherpa 100 juices a smartphone 14 times. Opt for the $50
Sherpa Inverter (110V) attachment, and you get the same outlet
you have at home, which our amateur-photographer testers used
religiously for their dSLR batteries.
$350; goalzero.com
OUTDOOR TECH TURTLE SHELL 2.0

portable psych
If you want to blast your sending
song and headphones just wont
cut it, check out Outdoor Techs
Turtle Shell 2.0 speakers. One tester
was blown away by how loud and
clear it sounded for such a small
size, while another clumsy tester
commended the ruggedness: I
must have dropped them four or
ve times, and they didnt even skip
a beat. They connect wirelessly to
laptops, phones, and tablets, and
double as a speakerphone thanks to
a built-in mic.
$130; outdoortechnology.com
tech
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BOULDERING
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{TENTS}
SPORT
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR OPTIC 2.5
TRAD
ALPINE
a tent with a view

From the why-didnt-I-think-of-that department, huge mesh doors
on adjacent sides allow for a panoramic, 180-degree vista. It feels
like youre part of the surroundings, said one tester after watching
an epic sunset above Moab. It has a spacious interior (37 square feet,
enough for three in a pinch), with durable, desert-worthy materials
like 70- and 75-denier nylon in the oor and y. Nice price, too.
SIERRA DESIGNS FLASH 2

light and livable
In a radical (for tents) design change, SD put the
vestibules on the sidewallsaccess them from
outside or from an interior zipperto make entry
even easier. It proved its weather-worthiness when
I stayed dry through three days of rain in Colorados
Never Summer Wilderness, said one tester. At just
under four pounds, its a breeze to carry into the
backcountry for summer alpine routes, and it t
two 6 testers and a small cattle dog just ne.
MSR HUBBA HUBBA NX 3-PERSON

spacious temporary home
A three-person tent with the weight of a two-person and the
space of a four-person, said one tester. With 41.5 square feet and
two points of entry, three people and all their corresponding gear
could t with ease. It withstood high winds in Indian Creek like a
fortress and ventilated well on dewy mornings in Yosemites Camp 4.
$490; cascadedesigns.com/msr
$339; sierradesigns.com
{BAGS / PADS}
NEMO CODA 0
temperatureregulating bag
SIERRA DESIGNS
BACKCOUNTRY BED
high-quality snoozing
With a wide interior and down
blanket to tuck around your face,
this system mimics my bed at home.
Im never going back to a regular
bag. Read the full review on page 18.
A downside to most 0 bags is that

their use is limited to the worst weather.
Not so with the Coda. This 850-ll down
wonder has two zippered Thermo Gills
running two vertical feet through the
middle. Unzip them to regulate heat without letting drafts in. It extends the use to
milder seasons, said one tester who used
the bag on 5F nights in Colorados Indian
Peaks Wilderness and in Wyomings Wind
River Range in August. This makes the
price more reasonable. Stretchy seams at
the knees gave room for side sleeping.
$700; nemoequipment.com
$250$400 (varies by temp rating and ll);

sierradesigns.com
BIG AGNES DOUBLE Z

bed of clouds
Lay on the Double Z, and youll hover
four heavenly inches above the ground. As
cushy as cush gets, raved one tester. Yet
unlike some fat air mattresses, its incredibly
stable, thanks to four strips of daisy-chained
webbing that run the length of the pads
interior and connect the top and bottom
together. I never got that wobbly, pooloat feeling, says another tester. It doesnt
come without some workit took testers
about a minute to inate.
$80; bigagnes.com
WorldMags.net
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{ACCESSORIES}
MR. BEAMS ULTRABRIGHT

LED LANTERN
bright light source
With two ways to hang this
lamp, two lighting modes, reliable
water resistance, and a USB port
to charge other electronics, this
LED lantern is the perfect t
for crag-side camping. It emits
360 degrees of 260-lumen light,
which was more than enough to
illuminate an eight-person picnic
table while camping at Shelf
Road, Colorado, and all testers
appreciated being able to charge
a phone in about four hours. Our
van-bound testers loved to take
the plastic top off and hang the
unit upside down in nightlight
mode for reading. It shuts off
automatically after an hour.
$40; mrbeams.com
ARCTERYX CARRIER DUFFLE 100

lightweight load-monster
The AC2 fabric Arcteryx uses on some of their toughest, most
weather-resistant backpacks now bolsters one of the burliest
new expedition duffels weve seen. The waterproof nylon is fully
seam-taped, which is why all of my clothes were still dry after a
downpour while my duffel was in the back of a truck, said one
tester. The material also endured accumulated weeks of airline
travel and dragging with nary a scratch. At just over one pound,
this 2,990-cubic-inch hauler is incredibly light for its size. Four
grab loops and two backpack straps allow multiple carry options.
One access zipper and no pockets keep the package simple.
$199; arcteryx.com
GRUB HUB MESA 1
CAMELBAK ALL CLEAR
kitchen in a box
purify water in 60 seconds
This contraption sets up in three

minutes and delivers nearly all the
comforts of home: room to prep and
serve dinner for eight, a spot for a
two-burner stove, and yes, a removable, collapsible sink. Overhead poles
accommodate the included spice
rack, utensil holder, and hooks for
attaching lights and/or gravity lter
bags. Adjustable interior shelving
provides storage space. Overkill? Yep,
but its dang convenient, too.
$379; grubhubusa.com
With this convenient system, an ultraviolet purier is built right into

the bottle. Fill the 0.75-liter bottle, screw on the All Clear UV-light cap,
rotate the bottle for 60 seconds, and youre good to go. The treatment
cap, battery, and bottle weigh just over one pound, but as long as you
have a source of clear water nearby, you dont need to carry multiple
bottles or a bladder. During the weeklong trek to Manaslu basecamp
in Nepal, it was handy to use this system rather than buy bottled water, a tester said. A full battery gives about 80 treatments. Bonus: The
lithium ion battery is rechargeable through a USB cable.
$99; camelbak.com
SCRUBBA WASH BAG

dirtbagging gets clean
While it looks like a gloried dry bag, the Scrubba Wash
Bag is actually ingenious: Throw dirty clothes in it along
with some water and detergent, roll it around for a few
minutes, and the exible nodules on the interior act like a
washboard to massage dirt out of your clothes. Save money
on laundry and pack fewer clothes. Its the best six ounces
I pack for trips that last a week or more, one tester said.
65; thescrubba.com
camp
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CLIMBING.COM
| 69

BOULDERING
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SPORT
TRAD
ALPINE
basecamp
KIND HEALTHY
GRAINS BARS
delicious and chewy
convenience
Hooray for light and delightfully chewy (and
not my jaw hurts chewy)! Included in each
bar are ve super grains: oats, millet, quinoa,
amaranth, and buckwheat that provide carbs,
protein, and fat for an extra boost when you
need it. One sensitive-gut tester gobbled
these with ease, which kept her energized
throughout a 12-hour day of alpine climbing in
Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
MODERN OATS
light, quick breakfast
Whats easier than adding hot water
to a cup and waiting three minutes?
Practically nothing, which is why Modern
Oats oatmeal is unbeatable as a climbers
breakfast. Youll be fueled and at your
climb faster than you can say, Yum!
The container it comes in doubles as the
package, cooking vessel, and the bowl, so
all you dirty is your spoon. Whole grains,
seeds, nuts, and superfruits (like goji
and acai berries) offer clean and healthy
energy, protein, and necessary ber. Goji
blueberry and apple walnut were our
favorite avors. Bonus: Each cup has a
recipe to make two oatmeal cookies.
$19.50 (6 cups), $39 (12 cups);
modernoats.com
$28.50 (40 bars); kindsnacks.com
PROBAR BOLT CHEWS

energy gummies
Loaded with electrolytes, 24 grams of
carbs, and 180 calories per two-serving
pack, these fruity and tangy chews are a
great choice for refueling through long
days. I kept a pack stashed in a pocket
and popped one when I started dragging,
says one tester. The organic, gluten-,
dairy-, and GMO-free chews come in four
avors: orange (our favorite), strawberry,
raspberry, and berry blast.
$2.50; theprobar.com
the beta 411 from our climbing partners

Western Mountaineering
Western Mountaineering has
manufactured high quality goose down
sleeping bags and clothing in California
since 1970. Every measure is taken
to insure that our products exceed
consumer expectations for quality,
performance, and warmth. WM sleeping
bags are still made in USA using the
finest raw materials in the world.
westernmountaineering.com
P R O M OT I O N
Warmth Wherever You Are
MiniMuM Weight.
superior perforMance.
bartlett tree experts

Bartlett Tree Experts has Arborist Climber
and Climber Trainee positions available
in offices across the US. Put your love
of climbing to work for a company that
prioritizes safety above all else.
bartlett.com/careers
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Award-winning sleeping bags and down

clothing made in Seattle for 42 years. 850
to 900 fill power down assures maximum
warmth, minimum weight and superior
performance. Advanced fabric technologies
from Pertex and Schoeller NanoSphere
provide water resistance with exceptional
moisture vapor transport. Lightweight gear
for backpackers and climbers.
featheredfriends.com
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HALFPOPS
SETTON FARMS PISTACHIO CHEWY BITES
smart, simple fuel
Bars are easy to pack, but sometimes the processed
ingredients hit your stomach like a brick. Enter the Pistachio
Chewy Bites, which are made of three main, energy-giving ingredients: pistachios, cranberries, and agave nectar. Theyre
just sweet enough to keep me interested, but have tons of
ber and protein to keep my body on track, one tester said.
Health-tweakers will love that theyre vegan and gluten- and
dairy-free, too.
$6 (6 pack), $15 (16 pack); settonfarms.com
GO GNARLY PROTEIN
the end of GORP
These seasoned nuggets of partially

popped corn kernels earned universal
praise: Addictive! and The salty avors were exactly what I craved on hot
days. Halfpops are a decent source
of ber (3 grams per serving), and the
ingredients list is short, sweet, and
natural. Halfpops are rugged enough
for packing, unlike many other salty
snacks like chips and pretzels.
$1.50; halfpops.com
ANDREW BYDLON (HALFPOPS)
clean nutrition for training

The difference between any old supplement you buy at the store and
Go Gnarly is that this stuff uses clean ingredients that you can actually
pronounce. A full line of products follows the same ethos, including preand post-workout formulas, as well as supplements to consume while you
workout that will keep you hydrated and energized without a ton of sugar.
Go Gnarly blends well with just some fruit and ice for a perfect post-session
smoothie, one tester said of the vanilla-avored whey.
$51 (whey); gognarly.com
WELCOME TO THE
TRAD
GALAXY
The Trad Climbers Bible
the defnitive source for
the trad climbers art.
food
All climbing is an evershifting adventure that
answers old questions
in fresh ways. . . . weve
attempted to evoke the
whole damn thing, a kind of
trad galaxy spanning both
of our careers, believing the
goods lay more in the arc of
the whole rhubarb than in
any of the subplots.
John Long,
from the foreword
Theres no substitute for experience. The

Trad Climbers Bible captures two lifetimes of
experience through classic essays of personal
adventure and to-the-point anecdotes per
lessons learned. Not your average how-to
book!
Kevin Jorgeson, professional climber
and veteran of the Dawn Wall Project,
El Capitan, Yosemite, a.k.a. The Hardest
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Climb Never Done
WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD
FalconGuides.com

BOULDERING
SPORT
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GSI HALULITE 3.2L
invite your neighbors
TRAD
ALPINE
basecamp
PRIMUS ETA LITE

solo-cooking perfection
Attaching your pot to the stove in an integrated cook system is simple. Its detaching the
scalding-hot parts that usually leaves us cursing
as we pour our water with the canister attached, ames pufng from the side. Not with
the Eta Lite. The burner looks like a at triangle
that twists smoothly on and off the pot, which
also boosts stability by lowering the stoves
center of gravity. Its so quick and easy to use
that on chilly days I boiled a half-liter of water
for tea in less than three minutes, reports a
Boulder, Colorado tester.
SOTO WINDMASTER
OD-1RX
windproof versatility
Integrated cook systems do a great
job of deecting wind, but you cant use
multiple pots or frying pans. Meanwhile,
many pocket stoves suffer in the face of
a stiff breeze. Solution? Sotos ingenious
(and aptly named) heater. A wide, concave
burner head acts as a windshield and
places the ame closer to the pot. Testers
waiting out rain and 30mph winds in Colorados Never Summer Wilderness were
able make hot drinks when another stove
failed. The WindMaster (2.6 oz.) comes
with a tiny integrated pot support, just
big enough for a personal cook pot.
$75; sotooutdoors.com
$100; primuscamping.com
WorldMags.net
With a 7.5-inch-diameter base and

3.8-inch-tall sides, the Halulite was big
enough for our desert-climbing foodie
to whip up meals for ve hungry climbers without the weight-ding of a larger
pot. The hard-anodized aluminum gives
moderate nonstick performance. Sweet
feature: The lid has silicone thumb pads
and strainer holes, which testers appreciated not only for draining pasta, but also
for pouring liquid into smaller vessels.
$36 (2L), $40 (3.2L), $45 (4.7L); gsioutdoors.com
cooking
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CLINICS
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75
BEGIN HERE
GUIDES
TIP
SHOP TECH
IN SESSION
BEGIN HERE
READ MOUNTAIN WEATHER

By Laura Snider
Fully developed (violent up and down

drafts) cumulonimbus
Clouds dissipate
Transitioning to
cumulonimbus
Prevailing wind
LEARN THE BASICS OF

FICKLE ALPINE CLIMATES
TO MAXIMIZE SUCCESS
The Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows.
Grand Teton. The Diamond on
Colorados Longs Peak. Some of
the countrys most compelling
routes require a trip into the alpine, where the sweat poured into
frequently grueling approaches is
paid back in spectacular summit
views. But it takes more than
solid quads, healthy lungs, and
good climbing technique to ensure success on an alpine climb;
it also takes a healthy respect for
mountain weather.
Climbers should consider
wind speeds, the chance of snow
or rain, and the forecasted highs
and lows when planning any trip
into the mountains. But most
importantly, according to meteorologist Joel Gratz, is mitigating
your chance of getting struck by
lightning. If the temps drop a
little bit, if the wind picks up, if
it starts to precipitate, usually
you have some time to extricate
yourself from the situation, Gratz
said. But once the storm is close
enough to produce lightning,
youre one bolt away from being
injured or killed, and that can
happen in a second.
Here are his tips for respecting
the weather:
SKIP STERLING
1. BEFORE YOU GO.

* Check the point forecast:
Instead of looking at the forecast
for the nearest town, examine the
forecast for the actual location of
your climb. The National Weather
Services website (weather.gov)
lets you click an exact point on
a map, or you can enter lat/long
coordinates into the search bar.
The point forecast is likely more
accurate than using the nearest
town, which can be thousands of
32F
*Cumulous
clouds form
Vertical development
begins
Gusts
Clouds rise
Gusts
KEY
Rain
Sprinkles
Hail
Lightning
feet lower than your climb.

* Check the hourly forecast: Take
a ner-grain look by checking
the hourly forecast. At weather
.gov, you can nd it by clicking
on Hourly Weather Graph,
which tells you when the winds
will likely pick up, when the
temperature is expected to peak,
and when thunderstorms should
begin to build. Plan to be up
and of your objective at least
an hour before the forecast calls
for storms to move in. Also, pay
attention to a rapidly changing
forecast. If the chance of storms
difers radically from day to day
leading up to your climb, thats a
sign that meteorologists may not
have a lot of condence in the
forecast.
* Check the radar: These are not
especially accurate in the mountains, owing to the fact that the
peaks can block the radio waves.
The rst reading may not give you
much useful intel for your climb,
but checking regularly and learning the patterns will be useful
later. Notice the direction weather
is moving in from, and you may
start to see systems the more
frequently you head into the high
mountains. For example, storms
from the north may drive colder
winds than those moving in from
the southwest.
* Chat with locals: People who
frequently climb in an area may
have valuable beta about how the
weather forecast routinely difers
from conditions on the ground.
Some canyons may funnel winds

more strongly than predicted,
or shaded walls may be much
cooler. Call a local gear shop or
guiding company for insight.
2. IN THE FIELD.
* Watch the sky: Once youve
committed to the climb, pay
attention to the weather. Look
for signs that the forecast is right
or wrong or moving in quicker,
and adjust your plans. Take into
account whether you have a good
vantage point. For example, a
view to the east from a climb in
Rocky Mountain National Park
is not especially helpful since
weather tends to move in from
the west. If your view to the west
is blocked, be aware that it may
be easier for a weather system to
sneak up on you.
* Know your clouds: They wont
all produce a lightning bolt. You
should be worried about rising
cumulous clouds, which are pufy
and simultaneously hard-edged,
like the bicep of a bodybuilder.
As the building cloud gets taller,
it becomes capable of producing
lightning, rain, and hail and takes
on a new name: cumulonimbus.
High, wispy clouds, known as
cirrus, and low shelf-like clouds,
known as stratus, are less of a
concern. Stratus clouds can produce light precipitation, but they
wont produce lightning. Graupel
(small spheres of snow) are also a
sign of electrical activity.
3. BACK AT HOME.
* Log your observations: If you
plan on climbing frequently in
the area, its a good idea to write
down what you observed. Note
the weather forecast, what the
radar looked like, and what actually happened so you can look for
patterns in the future.
JOEL GRATZ
Joel Gratz is the weather nerd
behind opensnow.com, the
go-to website for those in search
of powder. Gratz, who studied
mountain weather as a grad
student at the University of Colorado at Boulder, hikes, climbs,
and bikes when theres no snow
to be skied.
WorldMags.net
*Based on an illustration in the NOLS Wilderness Educator Notebook
CLIMBI NG.COM
| 75
GUIDES TIP
PACK SMARTER
C L I N IWorldMags.net
CS
By Chris Wright
CHOOSE THE
RIGHT PACK
There is no single tool for every
job, but you can nd one pack
that will work for most of your
trips. The pack that I take to the
Himalaya is often the same pack
I take to Alaska or the Cascades.
You want something thats big
enough to carry everything for
the climb, yet small enough that
it wont get in your way on-route.
My favorite is a model that expands to 50 liters, cinches down
to 30, and weighs 2.5 pounds. Its
light and versatile. I have a quiver
EXCEPTIONS
TO THE RULE
As Ive said many times already,
getting everything in your pack
is idealbut as with anything
in life, there are exceptions.
Ice tools and crampons almost
always ride outside. And sometimes it works to place your rope
and helmet out there, too.
If the rope doesnt t,
make a mountaineers coil
and just put it over the top of
the pack. If you cant get your
brain bucket to t, try taking
out a couple things, stuf them
inside the helmet, and try again.
If you have other items that just
wont t, you might need a bigger
packor just make your partner
carry the beer.
of bigger and smaller packs, but

this is the one I use most.
SORT YOUR GEAR

Try dividing things into a few
categories before you load them.
The rst group is the little stuf
you might need in a hurry, like
a headlamp, food, and water.
Thats going in the lid for easy
access. The rest of your gear is
going to t into one of two categoriesthings that can change
their shape (such as a jacket),
and things that cant (like a pot
or water bottle). These subsequently fall into two additional
categories: light and heavy.
ARRANGE BY WEIGHT
To keep your packs weight in
line with your center of gravity,

its better to pack rigid, dense
items (rack, cooking gear) in
the center of your pack near
your back, especially with highvolume packs. Then position
lighter items near the top and
outer layers of the pack.
KILL DEAD SPACE

Empty spaces are the enemy of
a tightly loaded, well-balanced
pack. Take a soft, light item,
like a sleeping bag or a pufy
jacket, and load that in the
bottom of your pack. Now
place a hard, heavy item on top
of that, and then stuf another
soft item, like a tent y, around
that. Some guys like to house everything inside of stuf sacks, and
WorldMags.net
76 |
2014 GEAR GUIDE
CHRIS WRIGHT
Chris Wright is an AMGAcertied rock and alpine guide
based in Bend, Oregon, where he
splits his time between his three
obsessions: climbing, skiing, and
eating.
SUPERCORN (LEFT); SKIP STERLING
PUT EVERYTHING IN ITS

RIGHT PLACE FOR EFFICIENT MOVEMENT
When I see that guy on the trail
with a tent, banjo, puppy, and
pony keg swaying from carabiners, Im just left wondering why.
Why do so many of our otherwise
reasonable mountain buddies
want so badly to strap their
kit to the outside of their sad,
under-utilized packs instead of
just putting it all inside? First
is the matter of style. Im not
talking about what kind of jacket
youre wearing; Im talking about
whether youre the guy making it
look easy or making it look ugly.
Heres another way to look at it:
You wouldnt strap a banana to
the outside of your grocery bag,
would you? Then why do you clip
water bottles and cams to the outside of your backpack? Bags are
meant to be lled, and we should
all strive to put our gear inside
our packs. Not only will you win
those style points, but your pack
will carry better because the load
will be properly distributed on the
frame and not sway. If all of your
things are inside, they wont get
in the way, fall of, get snagged, or
get wet. Take a look at the pros:
Steve House didnt summit the
Slovak Direct on Denali with a
Nalgene swinging from a biner
on his pack. Heres how to pack
for success.
then load the sacks. I consider

stuf sacks the enemythey turn
soft objects into rigid ones and
create unnecessary dead spaces.
The more things you have that
are malleable the better. Use
them to ll the spaces between
the few things that just wont
play nice. And dont be afraid to
truly cramyour rack and Anasazis will be just ne, and your
pack will ride better for it.
SHOP TECH
WorldMags.net
REMOVABLE
BOLTS
76
77
SUPERCORN (LEFT); SKIP STERLING
By Claire Ricks
YOU MAY HAVE HEARD OF

REMOVABLE BOLTS AND
WONDERED, WHY THE
HECK WOULD ANYONE
WANT TO REMOVE A
BOLT?
Heres whyand how these
clever devices work to keep
you on the rock and moving
upward, whether on rappel
or on lead, while establishing a new climb. Simply put,
removable bolts are temporary
anchors placed, much like a
standard expansion bolt, into a
hole you drill in the rock. They
are ideal for rap-bolting on
steep stone, to hold you in close
while drilling, and while going
ground up on any terrain, steep
or otherwise. In both cases,
you might not be sure about
the nal bolt locations or need
to cover longer spans of stone
where natural protection (i.e.,
directional or weight-bearing
anchors) is not readily available
between obvious clipping stances. In other words, RBs give
you more leeway when guring
out exactly where a free climb
goes, to reduce the unnecessary
installation of expansion bolts
you might end up having to relocate later once you gure out
precisely where the line goes.
Theyre also useful as directional anchors while sussing a
steep and/or traversing line on
toprope, if youre still guring
out the clips.
RBs work by relying on
geometry and compounded
friction to stay in the hole. They
are easily removed when youre
done, at which point you can
patch the hole with epoxy and
rock dust. (While ClimbTech

recommends a minimum depth
of three inches, you may decide
to go in shallower to save time,
and do patch work on the back
end.) Not only do they make
putting up new routes more efcientno longer do you need
to use shorter and/or smallerdiameter expansion bolts as
your temporary anchorsthey
also make the process safer. As
opposed to the bat-hook holes
of yore, used by climbers drilling from the ground up, these
bad boys are multidirectional
and have much greater holding
power: 22kN for ClimbTechs
model RAF075N. (Bat-hook
holes are typically most reliable
in one direction of pulldownwardmaking it difcult to clip
in short and lever out and up
to drill your next clip.) Finally,
theyre also less destructive,
doing away with the need
for bolt ladders on sections
of blank stone when coming
from below. Overall, any rst
ascensionist or rebolter would
benet from having a few of
these on his rack.
RBs get their holding power
from a spoon and cone system.
The cone (A) is an upwardaring pyramid enclosed in
the spoon (B), a two-piece
sleeve that surrounds the cone
when placed. To place the RB,
squeeze the trigger (as you
would a spring-loaded camming device), which retracts the
sleeve, allowing you to place the
unit in a -diameter hole that

is three inches deep. To set the
RB, release the trigger and give
the unit a tug so that the sleeve
slips around the bottom of the
cone. The cones ared end
works as a stop against the two
pieces of the spoon, creating
outward pressure and securing
the RB in the hole. The more
force you exert, the harder the
cone is pulled back, and thus
the more outward pressure
i.e., holding poweryou get.
RBs are also, as the name
implies, easy to extract. The
rst option is to squeeze the
trigger, with your thumb creating counter-pressure inside
the anchor loop; this retracts
the two pieces of the spoon of
the cone and lets you slide the
bolt out of the hole. But RBs
can get stuck, so the designers
at ClimbTech have added a
cleaning bushing (C). Simply
tap the bushing with a metal
punch or screwdriver or any
long, slender metal implement you can oss into the
hole against the bushing. The
tapping action will further
push the cone up and out of
the sleeve, at which point you
squeeze the trigger, and the
bolt, fully compressed, slides
out of the hole.
Just like with cams, if a
removable bolt gets covered
in dirt, clean and inspect it for
any big scrapes or damage,
especially if you had to tap to
remove it.
REAL
WORLD
Ben Spannuth, who has established testpieces like Doubloons

(5.14-) on Mt. Evans in Colorado
swears by ClimbTechs removable
bolts. When bolting from the
ground up, he uses RBs to get
in the right position without a
bolt ladder, which limits lateral
movement and creates visual
impact. In fact, he takes two of
them every time he bolts, no
matter the area. Even if the wall
is very low-angle and you can get
to the top, its still nice to back up
that sketchy tree youre rapping
of with an RB, Spannuth says.
He also uses them when equipping very overhanging climbs
on rappel, where they help you
nd things to hook or [when]
you just want to spread the bolts
out and not make a bolt ladder.
Spannuth says if youre already
comfortable with the technical
aspects of bolting, then RBs are
great. Bottom line: Removable
bolts are cutting-edge climbing
gear that allow you to drill fewer
unneeded or of-route holes
when establishing new climbs.
BEN SPANNUTH
Since age 13, Ben Spannuth has

been an avid climber, competing
internationally before studying
at the University of Colorado
at Boulder. He now works with
Louder Than 11, a climbing media company, and spends much of
his time bolting new routes.
WorldMags.net
CLIMBING.COM
| 77
IN SESSION
HAUL YOUR PARTNER

C L I N IWorldMags.net
CS
HELP A STRUGGLING FOLLOWER THROUGH CHALLENGING SECTIONS WITH TWO HAULING METHODS
If you take new climbers out on hard terrain, you know this common mishap. Your partner makes it halfway up a pitch and then
gets stuck. He just cant climb any higherdoesnt know where to go or what to do. He starts to panic. Remember that this has probably
happened to all of us at one time or another. If youre at the base of the climb, theres little you can do other than coach him or lower. But if
youre at the top and you have a good array of skills in your bag of tricks, then you have options. You can still lower him if thats best, and, of
course, you can and should still coach him, but you can also give him a little assist by hauling him through the hard part.
HOW TO ASSIST FROM ABOVE

Coaching
The best and easiest way to assist a climber
from above is simply to position your belay
stance where youll be able to watch him. By
having visual contact, youll be able to manage the belay more efectively, taking in slack
in sync with your partners movement. Plus,
giving advice to a climber who encounters a
challenging section may prove inefective if
the belayer cant actually see him.
Vector
Pull
If someone just physically cant do a move
or is too tired to climb up a tough crux section, small assistance from the belayer may
be enough to get him over the impasse.
A simple method is the vector pull. First,
some physics to help understand why this
works. Picture a Tyrolean traverse. If the
climber crossing weighs 200 pounds and
is hanging from the middle of the rope,
with an angle slightly less than 180 degrees
(essentially horizontal), the force at each

anchor is roughly 1,000 pounds. But if that
angle were to decrease, the force exerted on
each anchor decreases. For example, when
the angle is relatively narrow (22 degrees
or less), the 200-pound climber weights
each anchor with only 100 pounds. So, lets
say youre belaying from the top of the clif,
and your climber is unable to move up past
a tough section of the climb. With a tight
rope (180-degree angle) between you and
your parter, you can create a surprising
amount of force just by reaching down and
pulling laterally on the rope to decrease
that 180-degree angle between you and
your climber. This is often enough to boost
someone past a single move, especially if he
is able to assist by, well, climbing.
( gure 1)
3:1
Raising System
One reason to belay from above, or direct
belay, with an assisted-braking belay
device (such as the Grigri) is that it is easily

converted to a 3:1 raising system (aka the
Z system) in a matter of seconds. For most
guides and climbing instructors, the direct
belay is always the rst choice, provided
the anchor is solid, because it allows the
belayer to prepare for any eventuality,
such as a quick lowering or raising of the
climber. Most instructors use a Grigri
clipped directly to the master point. To set
up a 3:1 raise, follow these steps:
ONE
Tie a back-up knot (overhand or gure

eight on a bight) in the brake strand thats
coming out of the Grigri. This allows the
belayer to go hands-free.
TWO
Tie a friction hitch (prusik or Klemheist)

(A) with a sling or webbing on the load
strand that goes down to the climber.
THREE
Clip the brake strand of the rope (from the
SUPERCORN
g. 1
WorldMags.net
SUPERCORN
WorldMags.net
THROUGH DIFFICULT
MOVES
78
79
By Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin
g. 2
Grigri) to a locking carabiner (B) clipped
to the friction hitch, and push the friction
hitch as far down as possible toward the
climber.
FOUR
Untie the back-up knot and pull up on

the brake strand of the rope (C). For every
three feet pulled through the Grigri, the
load is raised one foot. Note: Friction
against the rope is the enemy in any raising
system. If the rope going to the climber is
in contact with a large surface area of rock,
the raise will be correspondingly more
difcult. Using a pulley at the frictionhitch carabiner (B) would reduce friction
and make it easier to pull. Remember, this
technique is for assisting a climber to help
him get past a tough spotnot to haul up a
severely injured or unconscious climber.
FIVE
When the friction hitch is all the way to

the Grigri, reset it by sliding it back down
toward the climber. The Grigris built-in
ratchet will lock of and hold the load when
this is done. Then continue the raise.
( g. 2)
3:1
Assisted Raise
For this method, the climber must be close
enough that it is possible to throw him a

bight of rope. The climber clips the rope
onto a carabiner on the belay loop of his
harness to assist in the raise. Using this
system allows both the climber and belayer
to work together, and makes it much easier
for the belayer to raise the climber.
ONE
If you lead a steep climb and your follower

comes of and cant reach the rock, these
hauling systems provide you the means to
get your partner back on the route so you
can keep moving. They also ofer options if
he gets stuck on a move or just plain poops
out. And thats what being a good partner
is all about.
Tie a back-up knot (overhand or gure

eight on a bight) on the brake-strand side
of the belay device.
TWO
Toss a bight of rope down to the climber

from the brake strand and have him clip it
onto his belay loop with a locking carabiner
(A). If he does not already have a locking
carabiner on his harness, carefully lower a
carabiner down. Dont throw it.
THREE
Identify which strand the climber should

pull on by shaking it.
FOUR
Untie the back-up knot.
FIVE
The climber pulls down as the belayer pulls up

on the brake-strand side of the rope (B). Warn
the climber to watch his hands so they are not
pinched in the carabiner when pulling.
Excerpted from Rock Climbing: The

AMGA Single Pitch Manual, by Bob Gaines
and Jason D. Martin ($22, falcon.com).
This book was designed to supplement the
course material presented in the American
Mountain Guides Associations Single
Pitch Instructor course. The course and
the textbook were both built for capable
recreational climbers who wish to take the
step from personal climbing to climbing
instruction and guiding.
Climbing (USPS No. 0919-220, ISSN No. 0045-7159) is published ten times a year (February, March, April (Gear), May, July (Photo Annual), August, September, October, November, December/January) by SkramMedia LLC, 2520 55th St., Suite 210, Boulder, CO 80301. Periodicals postage paid at Boulder, CO, and additional mailing ofces. Canada Post publications agreement
No. 40008153. Subscription rates are $29.97 for one year of postal delivery in the United States. Add $20 per year for Canada and $40 per year for surface postage to other foreign
countries. Canadian undeliverable mail to Pitney Bowes IMEX PO Box 54, Station A, Windsor ON N9A 6J5. Postmaster: Please send all UAA to CFS. Retailers: Please send correspondence to
Climbing c/o Retail Vision 815 Ogden Avenue, Lisle, IL 60532-1337. Climbing magazine is a division of SkramMedia LLC. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Climbing, PO Box 420235,
Palm Coast FL 32142-0235.
WorldMags.net
CLIMBING.COM
| 79
Backpage
WorldMags.net
The
Gear
Closet
how does your sTash compare To These overflowIng seTups?
Taylor Killian
aaron TucKer
Karen lane
@karenklane This competitive youth climber

organized her gear corner
for a climbing/training/skiing trip to Utah.
@jscheutz Recycled DIY

doesnt get any better than
this: 15 minutes, a lefover
pallet, and some nails for
this sweet little gear rack.
PeTer VinToniV
ioanna MisheVa
rodrigo anTunes
alissa doherTy
JiM freeburg
KaTch silVa
Mauricio herrera
cuadra
dylan houser
@killian_taylor This
decked-out cargo van
gives dirtbagging a swank
makeover. Its a gear closet
on wheels.
@pvintoniv No, thats not

a gear store, thats a real
climbers color-coded
closet, inspired by friend
James Garrett.
@jifreeburg With a small

den in a compact condo, he
created a customized nook
so everything has a place.
@atromearound This gear

explosion might look like
a messy pile, but it has
everything you need from
trad to ice climbing.
@mishenshon A tiny
12-inch gap between the
wardrobe and the wall is
where she squeezes her
outdoor goodies.
@katchsilva This couple

built a custom hangboard
frame and wanted it to
double as their gear stash.
@rodrigoantunes Limited
space means you have to
get creative. Straight from
Brazil, the stealthy gear
drawer!
@arareko Gear closet

in transit: moving from
Mexico City to Colorado.
Josh scheuTzow
@alissadoherty When
boyfriend John Gassel saw
a gear company advertise
a similar setup, he bought
his own version at IKEA.
@dylanhouser Gear room

or living room? Three
roommates share these
shelves for all their gear.
gear graM: Tag your gear phoTos onWorldMags.net

InsTagram for a chance To geT In The magazIne! #gearcloseT
WorldMags.net
HYPERLIGHT RACK PACKS The Nano 23 is the lightest

carabiner in the world (23 g). The Photon Wire is lightest full-size carabiner in
the world (29 g). Taken together, they represent the most advanced line of biners
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on the gear end of double draws, or anywhere alpine. The Photons are designed
to deliver sheer bliss during desparate clips on the sharp end. Their over-size
design, smooth action and deep baskets make them truly versatile for all styles
of climbing.
Nano 23: Six cam-coordinated colors. Photon Wire: Eight cam-coordinated colors.
WorldMags.net
Available at specialty
outdoor retailers and REI stores nationwide.
WorldMags.net
A PART OF PEOPLES ADVENTURES
SINCE 1892
Eta SPIDER STOVE
ITS WHAT YOU NEED
Designed for high performance outdoor cooking

with one or two people in mind, the Eta Spider
brings efciency to a whole new altitude.
Compact, fuel efcient, and with a high-ame
output, the Eta Spider Stove allows you to pack
only what you need.
Includes:
*Burner with Piezo Ignition
*Ceramic-lined pot
*Colander lid
*Heat-retaining pouch
It's what you need to stay out longer
www.primuscamping.com
AVAILABLE AT:
WorldMags.net

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