The OleoCraft range is a group of oil structuring polymers that create

impressive films on the skin, lip and eyelash delivering water and wear
resistance benefits across colour cosmetic and sun care applications.
The OleoCraft polymers are low colour and low odour high performance
thermoplastic solids, proven to form crystal clear gels. The products cover
a range of high to low polarity oils providing compatibility with an array of
cosmetic ingredients.
The OleoCraft polymers create novel formats, from eye-catching clear sticks
and balms to sprayable gels and emulsions with real consumer benefits.
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Create water- and wear-resistant
polymer films
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Form solid sticks, gels or emulsions
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SPF boosters for sunscreens
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Improve pigment dispersion
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Enhance gloss and shine
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Provide emulsion stabilisation
Innovation you can build on
TM
OleoCraft
TM
Polymers
Protecting
Perfection
Structuring and Gelling
OleoCraft polymers contain low levels of residual acid and amine functionality.
These functional groups allow for steric stabilisation of pigment dispersions.
This can be used in colour cosmetics to give higher colour and gloss levels. It
can also be utilised in sun care where higher solid loadings at lower viscosities
can be produced with inorganic sunscreens. Figure 4 shows the reduction in
dispersion viscosity using the OleoCraft polymers at 1.5% w/w.
Product Name INCI Appearance
OleoCraft LP-20 Polyamide-8 Clear yellow pastilles
OleoCraft MP-30 Polyamide-3 Clear yellow pastilles
OleoCraft HP-31 Polyamide-3 Clear yellow pastilles
OleoCraft MP-32 Polyamide-3 Clear yellow pastilles
OleoCraft Polymer Range
Pigment Dispersion
Protecting Perfection
Figure 4: Viscosity measurements of Zinc Oxide (25%) in Crodamol AB
(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) emollient dispersions after 24 Hours
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Control OleoCraft MP-32 OleoCraft LP-20 OleoCraft MP-30
Oil structuring polymers that create films on the skin, lip and eyelash
providing water and wear resistance in colour cosmetic and sun care
applications.
Usage levels: 1-30%
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30,000
25,000
20,000
35,000
15,000
10,000
5,000
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Increasing Polarity Oil-like Water-like
The key to selecting the right OleoCraft polymer is to look at the intended
application, the intended product form and the compatibility of the polymer with
other ingredients in the formulation, in particular the oil phase ingredients.
Figure 1: OleoCraft polymer compatibility diagram
The OleoCraft polymers are able to create films on the skin. Acting on top of the
epidermis to provide a protective layer, their high molecular weight enables the
polymers to stay on the surface of the skin, forming a cohesive non-water soluble
film. The OleoCraft polymers can be incorporated into the oil, aqueous or ethanol
continuous phase or into the oil or aqueous phase of an emulsion.
Film Forming
Emulsions or gel dispersions can be obtained without the use of surfactants, by
blending incompatible oils and water with OleoCraft polymers. The type of
emulsion obtained depends on the OleoCraft polymer used and on the relative
amount of water and oil in the formulation. Stable emulsions can be made
without the need of a primary surfactant.
There are two main types of gel dispersion possible, water-in-gelled oil (W/OG)
and oil gels-in-water (OG/W). In the W/OG system, the oil phase is continuous
with no restriction on the aqueous phase composition. In the OG/W system, the
aqueous phase is continuous while the OleoCraft polymer gels the oil phase. In
both cases the OleoCraft forms a water resistant film and can increase the
delivery of actives on the skin. Figures 2 and 3 provide a diagram of the
structure formed.
Aqueous Phase Oil Phase Aqueous Phase Gel Phase
Figure 2: Diagram of water-in-gelled
oil (W/OG) structure
Figure 3: Diagram of oil gelled-in-water
(OG/W) structure
Emulsion Stabilisation
Properties/Applications
The OleoCraft polymers are macromolecules with repeating units linked by
amide bonds. The different in-chain or terminating groups result in compatibility
with a wide range of Personal Care ingredients. Figure 1 shows the
compatibility of each OleoCraft polymer with differing polarity oils.
OleoCraft MP-32
OleoCraft MP-30
OleoCraft HP-31
OleoCraft LP-20
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Wear Resistance in a Lipstick
Sun Care
Innovation you can build on
TM
The OleoCraft polymers create wear-resistant films on the lip and can
increase the transfer resistance of lipsticks. The durability and wear
resistance of an OleoCraft-based lipstick (formulation number C2681) was
compared to that of a premium commercial wax-based lipstick. The
performance was assessed by comparing the % change in colour following
1-5 passes over the product with an abrasion scrub tester.
We can see from Figure 5 that the % colour change in redness of the
OleoCraft formulation is lower after each pass compared to the commercial
wax-based lipstick, demonstrating that this lipstick is more durable.
In Figure 6 we can see that the amount of colour being wiped along the substrate
is higher for the commercial lipstick example. These results demonstrate that the
OleoCraft polymer formulation is more durable and wear resistant than the
commercial wax-based formulation.
Figure 5: % colour change in redness for commercial wax-based lipstick vs
OleoCraft lipstick
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1 pass 2 passes 3 passes 5 passes
Figure 6: Visual wear resistance results comparing an OleoCraft lipstick vs a commercial
wax-based lipstick
Wear Resistance in Mascara
Figure 7: Visual results of the transfer resistance of mascara containing OleoCraft LP-20
and a premium commercial benchmark
4 passes
OleoCraft lipstick Commercial wax-based lipstick
OleoCraft Lipstick
Commercial Lipstick
Commercial Mascara OleoCraft Mascara
The powerful film forming properties of the OleoCraft grades can also be
seen in their application in mascara. Here OleoCraft-based mascaras have
been proven to be "longer-lasting" when compared to a premium
commercial mascara. The images in Figure 7 show the transfer of wetted
mascara onto tissue paper. We can see that when OleoCraft LP-20 is used
as a gelling agent in a very simple formulation, the transfer is visually
reduced next to the benchmark.
The OleoCraft range can be incorporated into a wide range of sun care
formulations, from emulsions to clear oil sprays. The film forming properties
provide SPF boosting and aid water resistance of formulations. The
polymers can also be used for rheology modification of the oil phase within
the formulation.
SPF Boosting and Water Resistance
The OleoCraft polymers SPF boosting and water resistance properties
were tested from an emulsion system in-vivo using the COLIPA Extra
Water Resistant (EWR) test methodology (80 minutes immersion time).
OleoCraft MP-30 was compared to a commonly used film forming polymer
used for water resistance and SPF boosting, PVP/ Eicosene Copolymer.
Both polymers were tested at 3% w/w and compared to a control formulation
containing no polymer.
The graph in Figure 8 shows the OleoCraft MP-30 formulation giving a 50%
SPF boost based on label SPF and 44% based on the absolute SPF values
obtained. When the formulation is subjected to water submersion, the SPF
boost does not collapse and the Extra Water Resistant (EWR) claim is
retained with the 50% higher label SPF. This attribute is not seen with the
benchmark polymer (PVP/ Eicosene Copolymer) which only achieves a
SPF 20 EWR rating.
Figure 8: Effect of polymers on in-vivo SPF, COLIPA EWR (80 minutes Submersion)
(AMA Laboratories (3 subjects))
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No polymer OleoCraft MP-30 PVP/Eicosene Copolymer
Static SPF EWR (80 mins)
30
Crystal Clear Lipstick
OleoCraft polymers can be used to create fantastic clear lipsticks and
balms. A selection of highly compatible materials is key to yielding this
clarity, avoiding syneresis and balancing stick integrity with the right payout.
Functional ingredients can be added to provide consumer benefits such
as moisturisation and plumping, while glitter and dye can be used for
visual appeal.
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses
or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied,
is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other
intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
2014 Croda Europe Ltd
Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc
North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc
Latin America email:marketinglatam@croda.com www.croda/la/pc
Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia
Printed on recycled paper
03/14 PCMS078v1
Method
Combine oils and OleoCraft grades. Heat to 85-90C and stir until homogeneous. Add Volulip at around 80C and stir. At around 75C pour off into the mould.
Clear Plumping and Moisturising Lipstick C2679
This stunning clear lipstick has fantastic consumer appeal. The combination of OleoCraft LP-20 and MP-30 enables formulators to structure these crystal clear sticks. Volulip
provides a plumping effect while Crodamol ISIS brings moisturisation to the lips. Crodamol SFX and STS give this lipstick a smooth and silky sensory, while providing real shine.
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Seatons 3: Sederma
Product (INCI Name) Functionality % w/w
OleoCraft
TM
LP-20 (Polyamide-8)
1
Low molecular weight gelling agent 20.0
OleoCraft
TM
MP-30 (Polyamide-3)
1
High molecular weight gelling agent 10.0
Crodamol
TM
SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate)
1
Light and silky emollient 30.0
Crodamol
TM
STS (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate)
1
Emollient with silicone-like shine and feel 10.0
Crodamol
TM
ISIS (Isostearyl Isosterate)
1
Skin moisturising emollient 9.0
Prisorine
TM
3515 (Isostearyl Alcohol)
1
Clarity enhancer 10.0
Seatons Castor Oil BP (Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil)
2
Clarity enhancer 5.0
Liquiwax
TM
PolyEFA (Octyldodecyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate)
1
Substantive emollient and gloss enhancer 5.0
Volulip (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Portulaca Pilosa Extract 3D lip effect and moisturising active 1.0
(and) Sucrose Cocoate (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38)
3
Method
Combine all of Phase A and heat to 90-95C with stirring. Stir at temperature until all the solids have dissolved. Remove from heat and add phase B, stirring to room
temperature. Add phase C below 35C, before filling off into suitable containers.
Every day Wear Resistant Mascara C2684
This fantastic, yet simple, mascara will provide you with confidence that you will look great all day with wear resistance properties being delivered from OleoCraft LP-20.
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Crodarom 3: Azelis
Product (INCI Name) Functionality % w/w
Phase A
Arlamol
TM
HD (Isohexadecane)
1
Emollient To 100
Black iron oxide Pigment 20.00
Beeswax White (Cera Alba) Wax 13.00
OleoCraft
TM
LP-20 (Polyamide-8)
1
Gelling Agent 8.50
Carnauba Wax Wax 3.50
Span
TM
83 (Sorbitan Sesquioleate)
1
Dispersant for pigment 1.00
Phase B
Xiameter 245 (Cyclopentasiloxane)
3
Silicone 8.00
Phase C
Phenova
TM
(Aqua (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben Preservative 0.4
(and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben)
2
Method
Combine all ingredients and heat to 90-100 C with stirring until the OleoCraft HP-31 and the organic UV filters have dissolved in the oil phase. Allow the formulation
to cool to room temperature.
Crystal Clear Sun Care Spray C2685
This crystal clear sun care oil provides transparent water protection with OleoCraft HP-31 and Crodamol IPIS delivers moisturisation benefits, as well as a fantastic
after feel on the skin.
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Merck 3: BASF
Product (INCI Name) Functionality % w/w
OleoCraft
TM
HP-31 (Polyamide-3)
1
Film former 1.50
Crodamol
TM
AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
1
Emollient 39.50
Crodamol
TM
IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate)
1
Emollient 17.50
Crodamol
TM
W (Stearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearyl Caprylate)
1
Emollient 17.50
Eusolex OCR (Octocrylene)
2
UV absorber 8.00
Tinsorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine)
3
UV absorber 6.00
Crodamol
TM
SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate)
1
Emollient 5.00
Prisorine
TM
3515 (Isostearyl Alcohol)
1
Clarity enhancer 5.00