PATTERN MAKING

DRAFTING
Drafting involves measurements derived from sizing system or accurate measurement taken on a
pattern or dress or body form e.g. measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on. It has additional
ease allowances, which are marked on paper and basic constructional lines are marked to
complete the draft. Drafting is used to create basic or design drafts e.g. basic bodice block or
skirt block.
Basic blocks provide a simple outline of bodice, skirt and sleeve from which every kind of
pattern for various styles can be made. The basic block may also be called Sloper. A good
quality of sloper is one which is adaptable to any style. Difficult to adapt blocks are not
considered practical. A good block will provide consistent fit in all its adaptations. It becomes a
ready tool for any further pattern making. Once a block is ready many different designs can be
obtained using it. A basic block does not have any seam allowances. It has no design detail on it
and consists of only constructional lines.
TYPES OF BLOCKS
There are four different types of blocks:-
1) Standard
2) Simplified
3) Trade
4) Tailoring
Each of these have specific usage and may not be easily changeable with one another e.g. A
sloper meant for trade may not work out well for a home dress making project Or a block meant
for factory production will not be useful for a designer or a high class custom work.
Each block has specific features which are suitable to its end use.
1) STANDARD
It forms the basis for formation of other blocks. It is used for high class individual work,
involving customized fitting. It is most suitable block for teaching advanced pattern making. Its
main objective is to provide a reliable and lasting basis of correct proportions and fit in all future
pattern making. It may also be used for developing more specialized slopers.
2) SIMPLIFIED
It is produced by simpler methods of drafting. Therefore it is more suitable for schools and
technical classes as the primary objective here does not understand the technical aspect of bodice
construction, but to have a reliable pattern for practical dress making. It is less suitable for
advanced teaching. It is also not very useful for other slopers.
3) TRADE
It is an adaptation of standard sloper. It is made to suit various requirements of the wholesale
manufacturing trade. The proportions of such blocks usually follow the size chart used in
wholesale or large manufacturing units. These blocks take into account the current fashion trends
e.g. they may have extra squareness in shoulders or a wider across back. Trade blocks may
include details and proportions based on commercial reasons to help in the sale of a garment to a
wider customer base i.e. bigger range in figure size. This block has suit to the demands of factory
technique where accuracy in assembling the garment and speed in making up are of utmost
importance. They keep on changing with fashion and newer manufacturing technology. They
also vary from one designer/ manufacturer to another according to the standard of fit expected,
and the kind of customer base the retailer serves.
4) TAILORING
It is another modification of the standard block. It has a few special features and proportions. The
jacket patterns drafted by tailors are good example of this.

PRIMARY & SECONDARY BLOCKS
The primary blocks are:-
a) Basic bodice block (front & back)
b) Basic skirt block (front & back)
c) Basic sleeve block
Above all are primary blocks and may be used to obtain secondary blocks like trousers, various
collars, various sleeves etc.
The primary slopers are produced by drafting or draping. The dimensions of these slopers are
based on:-
Essential body measurements
Some derived measurements which are otherwise difficult to take directly on the body
Ease which is the allowance for movement.


PATTERN MAKING & DRAPING
S. No. DRAPING FLAT PATTERN MAKING
1. Technique of garment construction
without the use of any paper pattern.
System of pattern making which involves
the development of garment by
manipulating the basic draft.
2. Fabric is draped on the body forms
and the required stylization and
manipulation is done.
Follows the same measurements of basic
draft, but the further modifications /
stylisation is done by either of two
methods a) Slash & Spread method
b) Pivot method
3. It is a time consuming method done by
dress designers for an individual dress.
It is a fast method used in industry/export
houses for mass production.
4. It is an expensive method. It is a cost effective method.
5. It is the best method to achieve perfect
fit as it is done directly on to the dress
form. One can imagine and see the
look of the garment.

Fit of the garment may vary because of
faulty measurements and one cannot
visualize the look of the garment from
pattern. The final look can be observed
only after stitching of the pattern.
6. Draped patterns cannot be stored for
future use. It requires high degree of
expertise.
Paper pattern designs can be stored for
future use.



SOME IMPORTANT DEFINATIONS
1. Selvage
Ans. The narrow, firmly woven finished edge along both lengthwise edges of the fabric that does
not ravel is called Selvedge.
2. Notch A V shaped marking on the edge of a pattern to indicate where the
corresponding pattern piece is to join.

3. Strap Measurements
Ans. It is a measurement from highest shoulder point (HSP) till below armhole
4. Sleeve Cap
Ans. It is the curved top region of the sleeve above biceps line.
5. Pattern Making Tools
Ans. The tools which are used for making pattern are known as pattern making tools. Various
tools which are used in pattern making are:
Straight pins, Straight pin holder, Scissor, pencil and pens, rulers (grid scale, scale), French
curve, hip curve, push pins, scotch tape, notcher, tracing wheel, Awl, Measuring tape, Tailors
chalk, Tracing paper, fevicol, Metal weight.
6. SS
Ans. SS stands for side seam. A defined place on a pattern or garment that indicates the point at
which the front and back of a garment is sewn together. In simple words, it is a seam which joins
front and back piece of a garment. It starts from armpit point and goes till waist level in a bodice.
In case of lower garment, it starts from waist tip and goes till hem tip of the garment (hem level
may vary as per garment length.
7. Seam Allowance
Ans. The amount of fabric allowed for seams in joining together sections of a garment. Seam
allowances must be added to any edge that is to be joined to another. The width of the seam
allowance depends on the location of the seam and the price range of the manufacturer.
8. Pivot
Ans. The shifting or moving of a pattern from a marked position towards a designated guide line
is called Pivot.
9. First Pattern
Ans. It is the original pattern developed for each design. This pattern is generally made from
marking paper and usually requires fitting and adjustments. Half a pattern is developed (unless
instructed otherwise). An asymmetrical design requires a full pattern.
10. Production Pattern
Ans. It is a pattern set that has been corrected and without error. The patterns must contain every
pattern piece required to complete the garment. The patterns are used by the grader for grading
sizes and by the marker maker for a fabric layout.
11. Side Seam Balance
Ans. The front and back side seams should be the same shape and length. In a fitted bodice, side
seams and flared skirt side seams should be the same angle off the straight grain. To drape a
torso, shift, or fitted skirt, the side seam should be parallel to the centre front / back grain.
12. Cap Height
Ans. Distance from biceps to the top at the grain line. In simple terms, it is the maximum
distance from bicep level to the arm scye.

13. Ease
Ans. The amount of excess fabric added to the draped pattern to make garments more
comfortable and allow for easier movement is called ease allowance.
14. Pivotal Points
Ans. It is a designated point on the pattern (for example, the bust point). The pattern is slashed
to, or pivoted from, this point. This allows the pattern shape to be altered without changing its
size or fit.
15. Across Shoulder
Ans. It is distance from shoulder tip to centre front neck (for front across shoulder) or centre
front back (for back across shoulder). It is one of the horizontal measurements.
16. True Bias
Ans. A line diagonally across the grain of the fabric at an angle of 45 that offers greatest stretch
ability or maximum stretch is called true bias.
17. Trueing
Ans. The blending and straightening of pencil lines cross marks, and dot marks for the purpose
of establishing correct seam lengths for example, trueing a side seam having a side dart. It can
be done as follows:
Fold dart and draw side seam.
Trace the side seam line.
Unfold dart and pencil in the dart.

What is a dart? Explain various components of a dart using suitable diagram.
Ans: Dart: Dart is a wedge shaped cut out in a pattern to control the fit of a garment. The dart
converts a 2-dimensional pattern into a 3- dimensional

Bust point: A designated place on the bust and the pattern and referred to in flat
patternmaking as the pivotal point or apex.
Dart legs: The two lines that converge at a predetermined point on the pattern.
Dart intake: The amount of excess confined between dart legs.

Darts are folds sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional shape to a garment


1. Grain line -Lengthwise or crosswise threads of the fabric.
Lengthwise grain (warp): yarns parallel with selvage and at right angle to the crosswise
grain. It is the most stable grain.
Crosswise grain (weft): yarns woven across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. It is the
filling yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise grain yields to tension.

2. Bias - Bias is a slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the weave of the cloth. A line
diagonally across the grain of the fabric at an angle of 45 that offers greatest stretch
ability or maximum stretch is called true bias.

Principle 1
DART MANIPULATION





Pattern papers: