Dec.

1 3 , 1 966 _ H , w_ QRMAND 3 , 290, 752

. WOVEN COTTON-POLYESTER BLEND FABRICS H AVING
- RECOVERABLE STRETCH CH ARACTERISTICS
Filed March 26, 1 96: 5
WOVEN FABRIC CONSISTING OF BLEND
OF COTTON AND POLYESTER FIBERS
DESIZE FABRIC
WET FABRIC WITH MERCERIZING
SOLUTION 0E SODIUM H YDROXIDE
SH RINK FABRIC IN FILLING DIRECTION BY ACTION 0} ? MERCERIZING
AGENT WH ILE SUBSTANTIALLY UNTENSIONED IN FILLING DIRECTION
BUT MAINTAINING, TENSION IN WARPWISE DIRECTION
WASH FABRIC WITH TENSION IN WARPWISE
DIRECTION BUT WITH OUT TENSION INEILLLNG DIRECTION
AND DRY WITH OUT STRETCH ING IN FILLING DIRECTION
IMPREGNATE FABRIC WITH A LIQUID MIXTURE OF
FLUORESCENT DYE AND WETTING AGENT, AND DRY
WH ILE RESTRICTING SH RINKAGE IN FILLING DIRECT ION
H EAT DRIED FABRIC TO SH RINKAND STABILIZE POLYESTER FIBERS
OFFILLING YARNS WH ILE MAINTAINING FABRIC UNDER TENSION IN
WARPWISE DIRECTION BUT WITH OUT TENSION IN FILLING DIRECTION
IMPREGNATE. FABRIC WITH LIQUID MIXTURE OF SOFTENER
vAND PIGMENT , AND DRY WH ILE CONTROLLING WIDTH
SUBJECT FABRIC TO COMPRESSIVE SH RINKAGE
OPERATION ' 1 0 CONTROL RESIDUAL SH RINKAGE INVENTOR
H ARRY W. ORMAND
emvgr/w' ikvm
ATTORNEYS
Un it ed St at es Pat en t
1
3 , 290, 752
WOVEN COTTON-POLYESTER BLEND FABRICS
H AVING RECOVERABLE STRETCH CH ARAC
TERISTICS
H arry W. Orman d, Up s o n Co u n t y , Ga., as s ign o r t o
Tho mas t o n Co t t o n Mills , Tho mas t o n , Ga., a co rp o ra
t io n o f Geo rgia
Filed Mar. 26, 1 963 , Ser. No . 267, 93 2
5 Claims . ( Cl. 28 --74 )
This in ven t io n relat es t o wo ven f ab rics co mp ris in g
b len ds o f co t t o n an d s y n t het ic ? b ers havin g reco verab le
s t ret ch charact eris t ics , an d is p art icu larly direct ed t o t he
p ro du ct io n o f co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d f ab rics wo ven f ro m
s t an dard o r n o rmal t wis t y arn s which have des irab le
s t ret ch p ro p ert ies in t he ? llin g direct io n .
A p rimary o b j ect o f t he in ven t io n is t o p ro vide a s im
p le b u t elf ect ive p ro ces s f o r man u f act u rin g wo ven co t t o n
p o ly es t er b len d f ab rics whereb y s t ab iliz ed widt h s t ret ch
charact eris t ics are emb o died t herein b y a n o vel co mb in a
t io n o f mechan ical an d chemical t reat in g s t ep s Wit ho u t
u s in g s t ret ch o r t ex t u red y arn s , an d wit ho u t req u irin g
s p ecial machin ery .
An o t her o b j ect is t he p ro vis io n o f a n ew an d eco n o mical
met ho d f o r p ro du cin g f ab rics wo ven o f co t t o n an d p o ly
es t er ? b ers havin g high s t ret ch an d reco very p ro p ert ies
in t he ? llin g direct io n wherein o n ly s t an dard o r n o rmal
t wis t y arn s are emp lo y ed.
A f u rt her o b j ect is t o p ro du ce wo ven co t t o n -s y n t het ic
b len d f ab rics o f imp ro ved s t ret ch charact eris t ics which.
are es p ecially well adap t ed f o r en d u s e in t he ap p arel
? eld, f o r s u ch it ems as s hirt s , p aj amas , b ras s iere f ab rics ,
o u t erwear, u n derwear, lo u n ge wear, s p o rt s wear, f o u n da
t io n garmen t s , s ho es , b at hin g s u it s an d co at in g f o r' rain
wear, an d f o r s u ch in du s t rial en d u s es as t he man u f act u re
o f vin y l, ru b b er, p y ro x y lin an d p o ly u ret han e co at ed o r
lamin at ed t ex t ile mat erials , where res ilien cy in o n e direc
t io n is -an imp o rt an t co n s u mer q u alit y .
In acco rdan ce wit h t he p res en t in ven t io n , wo ven co t t o n
an d p o ly es t er b len d f ab rics havin g a s t ret ch o f f ro m 1 5%
t o 3 0% in t he widt h can b e p ro du ced s imp ly an d eco
n o mically , u s in g co n ven t io n al ? n is hin g machin ery , b y a
n o vel co mb in at io n o f chemical an d mechan ical t reat in g
s t ep s in clu din g merceriz in gwit ho u t widt hwis e t en s io n ,
Was hin g in o p en widt h was hers , dry in g wit ho u t in creas in g
t he widt h o f t he f ab ric, t reat in g wit h a res in o r o t her
chemical agen t s o as t o s t ab iliz e t he co t t o n ? b ers , o r,
alt ern at ively , heat s et t in g t o s hrin k an d s t ab iliz e t he p o ly
es t er ? b ers ; v an d .co mp res s ively s hrin kin g t he f ab ric t o
co n t ro l t he res idu al s hrin kage. In addit io n t o t hes e p rin
cip al s t ep s , t he p ro ces s may in clu de vario u s o t her o p era
t i-o n s as will ap p ear mo re f u lly ' f ro m t he ex amp les herein _ .
af t er des crib ed. -
The p ro ces s o f t he in ven t io n is ap p licab le t o all wo ven
co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d f ab rics made f ro m s t an dard o r
n o rmal t wis t y arn s , in clu din g reeded o u t o r redes ign ed
co n s t ru ct io n s as well as s t an dard greige co n s t ru ct io n s o f
vario u s t y p es an d weight s . The p ro du ct o f t he in ven t io n
is a wo ven co t t o n -s y n t het ic f ab ric havin g a high degree
o f s t ret chab ' ilit y an d elas t ic reco very in t he ? llin g direc
t io n while b ein g relat ively u n s t ret chab le in t he warp direc
t io n , an d is u s ef u l f o r a wide variet y o f en d u s es eit her
p er s e o r as a b ackin g f o r o r lamin a wit h s u ch o t her mat e
rials as vin y l p las t ic an d ru b b er s heet in g, p o ly u ret han e
f o ams , p y ro x y lin art i? cial leat her an d t he like.
I have dis co vered t hat wo ven co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d
f ab rics o f high widt h s t ret ch an d lo w s et charact eris t ics
can b e p ro du ced b y s hrin kin g a des iz ed greige o r b leached
f ab ric in t he ? llin g direct io n b y s u b j ect in g it t o t he act io n
o f a merceriz in g agen t wit ho u t widt hwis e res t rain t while
main t ain in g it u n der t en s io n in . a len gt hwis e direct io n ,
1 0
1 5
20
25
3 0
3 5
4 0
4 5
50
3 , 290, 752
Pat en t ed Dec. 1 3 , 1 966
2
t hereaf t er was hin g t he f ab ric u n t il s u b s t an t ially all o f t he
merceriz in g agen t has b een remo ved, again wit ho u t ap p ly
in g t en s io n in t he ? llin g direct io n , dry in g t he was hed f ab
ric wit ho u t s t ret chin g widt hwis e, imp regn at in g t he dried
f ab ric wit h a t hermo s et t in g res in o r o t her s u it ab le cro s s
lin kin g agen t an d cu rin g t he res in s o as t o main t ain t he
co t t o n ? b ers o f t he f ab ric in res ilien t o r elas t ic co n dit io n
in t he Widt h, was hin g t he res in t reat ed f ab ric wit h a s u it
ab le det ergen t t o remo ve an y u n ? x ed res in o r o t her f ree
chemicals , dry in g, t o p s o f t en in g t he dried f ab ric an d t hen
again dry in g o n a t en t er f rame, an d ? n ally s hrin kin g t he
f ab ric o n a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g machin e s o as t o co n
t ro l t he res idu al s hrin kage an d p ro du ce t he des ired
? n is hed widt h. I have als o f o u n d t hat s imilar high
widt h s t ret ch an d lo w s et charact eris t ics can b e o b t ain ed
b y s u b s t it u t in g f o r t he res in t reat men t , which af f ect s o n ly
t he co t t o n ? b ers o f t he f ab ric, a heat s et t in g o p erat io n
which af f ect s o n ly t he p o ly es t er ? b ers .
The t erm lo w s et charact eris t ic as u s ed herein has
ref eren ce t o t hat charact eris t ic o f t he f ab rics o f t he p res en t
in ven t io n which is rep res en t ed b y t he ab ilit y o f t he f ab ric
t o u n dergo rep eat ed s t ret chin g wit ho u t s u f f erin g mo re
t han a relat ively s mall amo u n t o f p erman en t elo n gat io n
in t he s t ret ched direct io n . In o t her wo rds , lo w s et is
t he eq u ivalen t o f high reco very . A met ho d o f meas u r
in g t he s et o f s t ret ch f ab ric is des crib ed herein af t er in
co n n ect io n wit h Ex amp le I.
The des ired res u lt s may b e ef f ect ively o b t ain ed b y a
p ro ces s which in clu des t he f o llo win g s t ep s . Firs t , af t er
a co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d f ab ric o f s u it ab le co n s t ru ct io n
an d weight , s u ch as a 50% co t t o n an d 50% Ko del b len d,
has b een des iz ed, s co u red, b leached, s in ged an d dried,
it is imp regn at ed wit h an aq u eo u s s o lu t io n o f s o diu m
hy dro x ide o f merceriz in g s t ren gt h, a s o lu t io n havin g a
s p eci? c gravit y o f f ro m 52 t o 54 Twad. b ein g p ref erred,
an d is t hen advan ced t hro u gh a merceriz in g ran ge u n der
warp wis e t en s io n b u t f ree f ro m t en s io n in t he ? llin g
direct io n an d wit ho u t u s in g wat er o n t he t en t er f rame.
The f ab ric is t hu s f ree t o s hrin k widt hwis e u n der t he
ef f ect o f t he merceriz in g s o lu t io n an d as a res u lt o f t he
len gt hwis et en s io n which is main t ain ed t o p reven t s hrin k
age in t he warp direct io n . Af t er t he f ab ric has b een
s at u rat ed wit h t he merceriz in g s o lu t io n , it is was hed wit h
wat er t o remo ve t he s o diu m hy dro x ide while t en s io n ed
in t he warp direct io n b u t again lef t s lack in t he ? llin g
direct io n , t he was hin g p ref erab ly b ein g carried o u t b y
advan cin g t he f ab ric t hro u gh a p lu ralit y o f o p en widt h
was hers , u s in g wat er o f an y s u it ab le t emp erat u re. Ordi
n arily ho t wat er havin g a t emp erat u re o f f ro m ab o u t
1 60 t o ab o u t 1 8 0 F. is u s ed in all b u t t he las t was her
wherein co ld wat er is u s ed. If des ired, a s mall amo u n t
' o f acid may b e added t o t he wat er in t he n ex t t o t he las t
55
60
65
70
Was her in o rder t o n eu t raliz e an y o f t he cau s t ic s o da which
may remain in t he f ab ric. Af t er t he was hin g o p erat io n ,
t he f ab ric is dried in a revo lvin g dru m o r can t y p e drier
wit ho u t in creas in g t he widt h t hereo f while s t ill ap p ly in g
t en s io n in a warp wis e direct io n .
Alt ern at ively , in t he even t t hat t he widt hwis e s hrin kage
du e t o chemical act io n is t o b e accu rat ely limit ed t o a
p redet ermin ed amo u n t , t he s elvages o f t he f ab ric may b e
at t ached t o t he ap p ro p riat ely adj u s t ed p in s o r clip s o f
t he merceriz in g t en t er f rame du rin g p as s age t heret hro u gh
s o t hat t he f ab ric may n o t s hrin k mo re t han t he des ired
amo u n t . No rmally , ho wever, t he met ho d o f t he p res en t
in ven t io n co n t emp lat es t he max imu m p o s s ib le s hrin kage
o f t he f ab ric in t he ? llin g direct io n , i.e., u p t o ab o u t 3 0%,
t he amo u n t o f s hrin kage b ein g co n t ro lled b y b o t h t he
s t ren gt h o f t he merceriz in g s o lu t io n an d- t he len gt hwis e
t en s io n ap p lied t o t he f ab ric.
In s t ead o f imp regn at in g t he f ab ric wit h s o diu m hy - .
dro x ide o n a co n ven t io n al merceriz in g ran ge as ab o ve
3 , 290, 752
3
des crib ed, t his s t ep o f t he met ho d may b e carried o u t b y
p as s in g t he f ab ric in a s lack widt h co n dit io n t hro u gh a
s u it ab le p addin g ap p arat u s eq u ip p ed wit h a s at u rat in g
b o x an d t hen win din g t he go o ds o n a ro ll u n der len gt h
wis e t en s io n f o r a s u it ab le p erio d o f s t o rage b ef o re t he
was hin g s t ep .
Af t er t he f ab ric has b een s lack merceriz ed, was hed an d
dried, it is chemically t reat ed wit h a cro s s lin kin g agen t
in o rder t o s t ab iliz e t he widt h s t ret ch p ro p ert ies t hen
p o s s es s ed b y t he co t t o n ? b ers o f t he go o ds as a res u lt o f
t he ab n o rmal s hrin kage p revio u s ly p ro du ced. Fo r t his
p u rp o s e, t he f ab ric may b e ? rs t t reat ed wit h an an io n ic
wet t in g agen t an d t hen imp regn at ed wit h a s u it ab le
t hermo s et t in g res in an d cat aly s t , dried wit ho u t in creas in g
t he widt h t hereo f , an d s u b j ect ed t o an elevat ed t emp era
t u re o f s u ch amo u n t , an d f o r s u ch a p erio d o f t ime, as will
ef f ect p ro p er cu rin g o f t he res in . Triaz in e o r t riaz o n e
res in s an d b u f f ered in o rgan ic s alt cat aly s t s , s u ch as mag
n es iu m chlo ride, are p ref erred, in which even t cu rin g at
a t emp erat u re o f f ro m 3 20 t o 3 4 0 F. f o r a p erio d o f
f ro m o n e t o t hree min u t es will n o rmally s u ? ice. Alt er
n at ively , t he res in may b e rep laced b y a n o n -res in cro s s
lin kin g agen t , s u ch as f o rmaldehy de, divin y l s u lf o n e, an d
o t her kn o wn chemicals havin g t he cap acit y t o react wit h
an d cro s s lin k t he cellu lo s e mo lecu les o f co t t o n ? b ers .
Fo llo win g t he cro s s lin kin g t reat men t , t he f ab ric is
s o ap ed o r was hed wit h a det ergen t o f an y s u it ab le co m
p o s it io n in o rder t o remo ve ex ces s chemicals which may
remain f ro m t he p recedin g s t ep s , dried, t o p s o f t en ed b y
p as s age t hro u gh a mix co n t ain in g s u it ab le s o f t en ers ,
lu b rican t s an d a vat p igmen t , an d t hen dried o n a t en t er
f rame. Af t er t his las t dry in g s t ep , t he f ab ric is s hru n k o n
a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g machin e t o p ro vide a 1 % res id
u al s hrin kage in t he len gt h an d s u f f icien t s hrin kage in t he
widt h t o p ro du ce t he des ired ? n is hed widt h.
When p ro ces s in g cert ain t y p es o f co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d
f ab rics , s u ch as a b len d o f 3 5% co t t o n an d 65% Dacro n ,
it may b e des irab le t o o mit t he cro s s lin kin g t reat men t an d
in s t ead s u b j ect t he f ab ric t o a heat s et t in g o p erat io n .
In t his mo di? cat io n o f t he p ro ces s , af t er t he f ab ric has
b een merceriz ed, was hed an d dried, it is p added t hro u gh
a b lu in g mix co n t ain in g a ? u o res cen t dy e an d t hen dried
b y p as s age t hro u gh a t en t er f rame eq u ip p ed wit h a dry
in g s y s t em u n der len gt hwis e t en s io n b u t wit ho u t an y t en
s io n in t he ? llin g direct io n , o r wit h a widt h s et t in g which
is f ro m 2 t o 3 " great er t han t he des ired ? n is hed widt h
o f t he go o ds . Fro m t he dry in g t en t er f rame, t he f ab ric
is p as s ed t hro u gh a heat s et t in g o ven at s u ch a t emp era
t u re an d s p eed o f t ravel as t o s hrin k an d s t ab iliz e t he
p o ly es t er ? b ers o f t he f ab ric. Fo llo win g t he heat s et t in g
o p erat io n , t he go o ds are t reat ed wit h s o f t en ers , lu b rican t s
an d dy es o f an y s u it ab le charact er, dried, an d ? n ally
s hru n k o n a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g machin e as p revio u s ly
des crib ed.
The in ven t io n will n o w b e mo re s p eci? cally des crib ed
b y ref eren ce t o t he f o llo win g illu s t rat ive ex amp les .
Ex amp le I
A lo t o f 4 8 %" wide 4 .05 y ards p er p o u n d 94 x 8 4 u n
b leached f ab ric made u p o f a b len d o f 50% co t t o n an d
50% Ko del p o ly es t er ? b ers was ? rs t p added t hro u gh a
des iz in g b at h co n t ain in g 21 /: p o u n ds p er 1 00 gallo n s o f
wat er o f a s t an dardiz ed des iz in g mix t u re o f arn y lo ly t ic
an d p ro t eo ly t ic en z y mes , s u ch as Rap idas e 8 00, at a t em- ,
p erat u re o f ap p ro x imat ely 1 50 F., af t er which t he f ab ric
was s co u red in ro p e f o rm t hro u gh ho t wat er co n t ain in g
4 p o u n ds o f s o da as h p er 1 00 gallo n s at a t emp erat u re o f
ap p ro x imat ely 1 60 F., s o as t o remo ve t he wat er s o lu b le
s iz in g f ro m t he go o ds , t o get her wit h dirt , s o il an d o t her
u n des irab le s u b s t an ces . Fro m t he s co u rin g ves s el, t he
f ab ric was t ran s f erred o n reels t o a b leachin g kier in t o
which was in t ro du ced a b leachin g s o lu t io n co n t ain in g 75
p o u n ds o f 3 5% hy dro gen p ero x ide an d 1 50 p o u n ds o f
s o diu m s ilicat e p er 1 000 gallo n s o f wat er. The b leach
in g liq u o r was heat ed t o ab o u t 1 90 F. an d t hen held at
1 0
1 5
4
t hat t emp erat u re an d circu lat ed wit hin t he kier f o r ab o u t
5 ho u rs . At t he en d o f t his t ime, t he s p en t liq u o r was
drawn o f f f ro m t he kier an d t he b leached go o ds were
was hed in ro p e f o rm, wat er man gled an d dried. The dry
b leached f ab ric was t hen s in ged t o remo ve t he p ro j ect
in g co t t o n an d p o ly es t er ? b ers in o rder t o co n t ro l p illin g
o r b allin g u p o f t he p o ly es t er ? b ers , an d t o imp ro ve t he
ap p earan ce o f t he go o ds . 7
The des iz ed, b leached an d s in ged f ab ric was n ex t im
p regn at ed wit h a 52 54 Twad. s o lu t io n o f s o diu m
hy dro x ide at ap p ro x imat ely ro o m t emp erat u re an d
s q u eez ed o n a t hree-ro ll merceriz er p ad, an d t hen ru n
t hro u gh t he t en t er f rame o f a merceriz in g ran ge at a
s p eed o f ab o u t 50 y ards p er min u t e wit h t he f rame s et
f ro m 3 t o . 6 u n der t he grey widt h o f t he go o ds an d
wit h t he was hin g s y s t em s hu t o f f s o as t o p ermit f ree
s hrin kage o f t he f ab ric in t he ? llin g direct io n . In t his
co n n ect io n , it will b e u n ders t o o d t hat t he widt hwis e
' s hrin kage o f t he f ab ric is p ro du ced b o t h b y t he chemical
20
25
3 0
3 5
4 0
4 5
50
60
75
act io n o f t he merceriz in g s o lu t io n an d mechan ically b y
reas o n o f t he f act t hat len gt hwis e t en s io n is ap p lied t o
t he f ab ric, as b y mean s o f drag o r t en s io n b ars an d
co mp en s at o r ro lls , co n t in u o u s ly du rin g p as s age o f t he
go o ds t hro u gh t he merceriz in g ran ge as well as t hro u gh
t he des iz in g p ad b o x .
Fro m t he t en t er f rame, t he go o ds were ru n t hro u gh a
s eries o f o p en widt h Was hers t o remo ve t he s o diu m hy
dro x ide, p as s in g t wice t hro u gh a s even -b o x was her f ed
wit h ho t wat er at a t emp erat u re o f ap p ro x imat ely 1 8 0 F.
an d at a rat e o f 70- gallo n s p er min u t e, an d were t hen
dried b y p as s age t hro u gh a drier o f t he s t eam heat ed
revo lvin g dru m o r can t y p e, wit ho u t an y in creas e in widt h.
Af t er dry in g, at which t ime t he widt h o f t he go o ds
had s hru n k t o 3 9%", t he f ab ric was t reat ed wit h res in
in o rder t o s t ab iliz e t he reco verab le s t ret ch charact eris t ics
o f t he ? n is hed go o ds . To t his en d, t he f ab ric was p added
t hro u gh a res in mix o n a t wo -ro ll p ad, t he mix co n t ain
in g, p er 1 00 gallo n s o f mix :
4 8 p o u n ds o f a t riaz o n e t hermo s et t in g res in , s u ch as
St -an s et .
1 0 p o u n ds o f a b u f f ered in o rgan ic s alt cat aly s t , s u ch as
t he magn es iu m chlo ride Cat aly s t 1 00.
1 p o u n d o f a s u it ab le wet t in g agen t , s u ch as t he alky -l-v
ary l p o ly gly co l et her St an dap o n 95.
1 3 00 cc. o f a dis p ers ed b lu e vat p igmen t , s u ch as
GAPZ.
4 500 cc. o f an o p t ical whit en er ? u o res cen t dy e, s u ch as
Blan co p ho r H S~ 3 1 .
750 cc. o f an o t her ? u o res cen t dy e, s u ch as Uvit ex .
1 0 p o u n ds o f a s elf -emu ls if y in g f at t y -b as ed es t er de
rivat ive s o f t en er an d lu b rican t , s u ch as Cream 4 4 5.
Af t er p addin g t hro u gh t he res in mix , t he go o ds iwere
p as s ed in t o a heat ed t en t er f rame s et , in t his in s t an ce, at
a widt h o f 4 3 in ches , where t hey were dried. Fro m t he
t en t er f rame, t he dried f ab ric was p as s ed t hro u gh a cu r
in g o ven at t he rat e o f 1 1 0 y ards p er min u t e, t he t emp era- .
t u re in t he o ven b ein g ab o u t 3 4 0 F. an d t he cu rin g t ime
b ein g ap p ro x imat ely 72 s eco n ds . The widt h o f ' t he go o ds
leavin g t he cu rin g o ven was 4 1 1 /2".
At t his s t age o f t he p ro ces s , t he f ab ric p o s s es s ed t he de
s ired high widt h s t ret ch an d reco very p ro p ert ies . H o w
ever, in o rder t o remo ve an y res idu al o b j ect io n ab le chemi
cals , s u ch as u n ? x ed res in , t he go o ds were s o ap ed, i.e.,
t reat ed wit h a det ergen t , b y p as s in g t hem t hro u gh f o u r
o p en widt h was h b o x es co n t ain in g an aq u eo u s mix t u re o f
2 p o u n ds o f ' alky lp hen o x y p o ly et han o ls p er 600 gallo n s o f
wat er, heat ed t o a t emp erat u re o f ap p ro x imat ely 1 8 0 F .,
an d t hen t hro u gh t hree b o x es o f ho t was h wat er o f s u b
s t an t ially t he s ame t emp erat u re. Af t er t he s o ap in g, t he
f ab ric was dried o n s t eam heat ed dry in g can s , an d t hen
f u rt her t reat ed b y p as s age t hro u gh a t o p s o f t en in g mix
o n a t wo ro ll p ad, t he mix co n t ain in g p er 1 00 gallo n s o f
mix :
20 p o u n ds o f a s elf -emu ls if y in g f at t y -b as ed es t er de
rivat ive s o f t en er an d lu b rican t , s u ch as S-91 6.
3 , 290, 752
5
4 0 p o u n ds o f an o t her s o f t en er an d lu b rican t , s u ch as
No . 73 5. " '
200 cc. o f a vat p igmen t in dis p ers ed f o rm adap t ed t o
en han cet he s hade o f whit e, s u ch as Vio let .
Up o n leavin g t he t o p s o f t en in g p ad, t he go o ds were
again dried o n a t en t er f rame.
In all o f t he dry in g s t ep s ab o ve men t io n ed o t her t han
t hat f o llo win g t he res in imp regn at io n , it will b e u n der
s t o o d t hat t he f ab ric was f ree f ro m t en s io n in t he ? llin g
direct io n , alt ho u gh co n t in u o u s ly u n der t en s io n in t he
warp direct io n .
As t he ? n al s t ep in t he p ro ces s , t he f ab ric was s hru n k
o n a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g machin e t o p ro vide a 1 %
res idu al s hrin kage in len gt h an d t he req u ired s hrin kage
in widt h t o p ro du ce a ? n is hed widt h o f f ro m 4 0 t o 4 1 ".
vSamp les were t hen cu t f ro m t he cen t er s ect io n o f t he
? n is hed go o ds f o r lab o rat o ry t es t in g as res p ect s s t ret ch
, an d s et , each s amp le b ein g 3 " x 9 wit h t he 3 f meas u re
men t s light ly o vers iz ed s o t hat , af t er u n ravellin g t he ? llin g
t hreads , t he ? llin g widt h was 3 ". Two clear lin es o r
b en ch marks 3 " ap art were marked acro s s t he s amp le,
an d a clamp was p laced o n each en d. The clamp ' at o n e
en d was ' f as t en ed t o a b en ch while a 27 p o u n d weight
was at t ached t o t he clamp at t he o t her en d an d s u s p en ded
vert ically f o ra p erio d o f 1 0 min u t es . _ At v t he en d o f t he
1 0 min u t ep erio d, t he in creas e in len gt h o f t he 3 " marked
s ect io n was meas u red an d calcu lat ed as t he p ercen t o f
s t ret ch. Af t er remo vin g t he weight an d allo win g t he
s amp le t o reco ver" in a ho riz o n t al p o s it io n f o r t en min u t es ,
t he in creas e in len gt h o f t he 3 " s ect io n was remeas u red
an d calcu lat ed as t he p ercen t o f s et .
When t he f ab ric "o f t he p res en t ex amp le was t es t ed in
t his man n er, t he f o llo win g res u lt s were o b t ain ed:
St ret ch Set Shrin kage
I 4 l_ .
Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g
4 .1 % ' 2s . 0% 1 . 9% 1 3 . 9% + . 72% + 1 . 25%
, No rn : + Shrin kage in dicat es a gain .
It will als o b e u n ders t o o d t hat all o f t he t es t res u lt s
herein s et f o rt h rep res en t t he average o f s everal t es t s
o n s amp les t aken f ro m dif f eren t ro lls o f t he s ame ? n is hed
lo t , an d are s u b j ect t o n o rmal variat io n s wit hin 1 % o r
2%. '
Ex amp le II
' A' lo t o f 4 8 %" wide 3 .91 y ards p er p o u n d 96 x 8 4 u n
b leached f ab ric made u p o f a b len d o f 50% co t t o n an d
50% Ko del p o ly es t er ? b ers was \ des iz ed, b leached, s in ged,
men ceriz ed, was hedan d dried in t he s ame man n er as t hat
des crib ed in Ex amp le I, an d again t he widt h o f t he f ab ric
af t er dry in g-had s hru n k t o ' 3 9% . I - o
. Af t er dry in g, ( t hee-f ab ric was p added t hro u gh a b lu in g
mix -o n a t wo ro ll p ad, -t he mix co n t ain in g p er 1 00 gallo n s
o f ' mix : -- - ~
3 00 cc. o f an o p t ical whit en erv? u o res cen t dy e, s u ch as
Blan co p ho r H S~ 3 ~ 1 . - - i 1
700 0c. o f -an o t her' f lu o res cen t dy e, s u ch as Uvit ex . _
1 p o u n do f a s u it ab le wet t in g agen t , s u ch as t he s o diu m
alky ln ap ht halen e s u lf o n at e- Nekal. >
Af t er p addin g t hro u gh t he b lu in g mix , t he go o ds were
dried o n a heat ed t en t er f rame havin g a widt h s et t in g o f
4 3 ". Fro m t he t en t er f rame, t he f ried f ab ric was p as s ed
t hro u gh a heat s et t in g o ven at t he rat e o f 1 25 y ards p er
min u t e, t he go o ds b ein g main t ain ed u n der t en s io n in t he
wan p direct io n b u t wit ho u t t en s io n in t he ? llin g direct io n ,
t he t emp erat u re in t he o ven b ein g ap p ro x imat ely 3 8 5 F.,
an d t he heat s et t in gt ime b ein g ab o u t 63 s eco n ds . , The
widt h o f t he go o ds leavin g t he heat s et t in g o ven was
4 0%", in dicat in g a decreas e o f ap p ro x imat ely 2% du r
in g t he' heat s et t in g o p erat io n . This decreas e in Widt h
res u lt ed f ro m b o t h-t he mechan ical t en s io n o n t he warp in
t he ab s en ce o f widt hwis e t en s io n an d t he s hrin kage ef f ect
1 0
1 5
20
25
3 5
4 0
4 5
50
55
60
70
75
6
o f t he heat o n t he p o ly es t er ? b ers in t he ? llin g. The heat
s et t in g p ro ces s als o imp art ed s t ab ilit y t o t he p o ly es t er
? b ers as res p ect s s hrin kage an d was h-an d-wear q u alit ies .
Fo llo win g t he heat s et t in g o p erat io n , t he f ab ric was
t reat ed b y p addin g o n a t wo ro ll p ad t hro u gh a ? n is hin g
mix co n t ain in g, p er 1 00 gallo n s o f mix :
20 p o u n ds o f a s elf -emu ls if y in g f at t y -b as ed es t er de
rivat ive s o f t en er an d lu b rican t , s u ch as S-91 6.
4 0 p o u n ds o f an o t her s o f t en er an d lu b rican t , s u ch as
No . 73 5.
4 00 cc. o f a vat p igmen t in dis p ers ed f o rm adap t ed t o
en han ce t he s hade o f whit e, s u ch as Vio let .
1 p o u n d o f a s u it ab le wet t in g agen t , s u ch as t he alky l
ary l p o ly gly co l et her St an dap o n 95.
1 50 cc. o f an o p t ical whit en er ? o u res cen t dy e, s u ch as
Blan co p ho r H S-3 l.
_ 4 00 cc. o f a b lu e vat p igmen t dis p ers io n adap t ed t o
add a b lu e t in t t o t he s hade o f whit e.
Up o n leavin g t he f in is hin g mix p ad, t he go o ds were
again dried o n a t en t er f rame s o as t o co n t ro l t he widt h
o f t he ? n is hed go o ds .
As in t he cas e o f Ex amp le I, t he las t s t ep o f t he p ro ces s
in vo lved s hrin kin g o f t he f ab ric o n a co mp res s ive s hrin k
in g machin e s o as t o co n t ro l t he res idu al s hrin kage, p ri
marily o f t he co t t o n co n t en t o f t he b len d, an d t o p ro vide
a ? n is hed widt h o f f ro m 4 0" t o 4 1 ". -
When t es t ed in t he s ame man n er as t he f ab ric o f Ex
amp le I, t he ? n is hed go o ds gave t he f o llo win g res u lt s :
St ret ch Set Shrin kage
Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g
5. 2% 3 0. 2% 2. 1 % 1 6. 7% + . 27% + . 8 3 %
NOTE! + Shrin kage in dicat es a gain .
Ex amp le III
A lo t o f 4 7" 3 .4 7 1 28 x 8 2, 3 5% co t t o n -65% Dacro n
f ab ric was p ro ces s ed b y t he s ame p ro cedu re as ( t he co t t o n
Ko dcl b len d o f Ex amp le II, ex cep t t hat t he widt h o f t he
f ab ric af t er t he Was hin g an d dry in g was 4 0%", an d af t er
t he heat s et t in g o p erat io n was 4 1 ". Tes t in g in t he man
n er p revio u s ly des crib ed gave t he f o llo win g res u lt s :
St ret ch Set Shrin kage
Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g Warp , Fillin g
5. 7% 1 9. 8 % 2.1 % 1 0.4 % + . 09% %+ . 63 %
: NOTEZ+ Shrin kage in dicat es a gain .
Ex amp le IV v
A lo t o f 4 7" 2.3 0 1 1 05 x 52 3 5% co t t o n -65% Dacro n
f ab ric was als o p ro ces s ed in t he s ame man n er as des crib ed '
in Ex amp le II, ex cep t t hat ' t he widt h o f t he f ab ric af t er
was hin g an d dry in g was 4 4 ", t he f ab ric af t er p addin g
t hro u gh t he b lu in g mix ' was dried wit h t he t en t er f rame
s et at 4 51 /2", an d t he widt h o f t he go o ds af t er t he heat
s et t in g o p erat io n was 4 3 1 /2". When t es t ed as des crib ed
in Ex amp le I, t he f o llo win g res u lt s were o b t ain ed:
St ret ch Set Shrin kage
Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g Warp Fillin g
5. 7% 1 5. 6% ' 2. 5% 8 . 8 % . 1 3 % . 7 5%
NOTE: + Shrin kage in dicat es a gain .
It will b e s een f ro m t he f o rego in g ex amp les t hat t he
met ho d o f t he p res en t in ven t io n is cap ab le o f imp art in g
high s t ret ch an d lo w p erman en t s et charact eris t ics in t he
? llin g direct io n t o co t t o n -p o ly es t er b len d f ab rics o f vari
3 , 290, 752
7
o u s s t an dard co n s t ru ct io n s , p ro du cin g a s t ret ch o f f ro m
1 5% t o 3 0% o f t he ? n is hed widt h wit h a relat ively high
reco very .
While t he s t art in g f ab ric u s ed in each o f t he ex amp les
was a s t an dard greige co n s t ru ct io n wo ven f ro m s t an dard
t wis t y arn s , it will b e o b vio u s t hat t he p ro ces s is als o ap
p licab le t o reeded o u t an d redes ign ed f ab rics . In t his
co n n ect io n , in o rder t o p ro vide a cu s t o mer wit h a s t ret ch
ab le wo ven co t t o n -p o ly es t er f ab ric in s u b s t an t ially t he
s ame widt h, weight an d t hread co u n t as t he s t an dard n o n
s t ret chab Le go o ds n o rmally des ired b y t hat cu s t o mer f o r
t he s p eci? c en d u s e in vo lved, it will u s u ally b e n eces s ary
t o eit her reed o u t o r redes ign t he greige co n s t ru ct io n s o
as t o allo w f o r t he in creas e in warp t hread co u n t an d
den s it y o r weight p er u n it len gt h which res u lt s f ro m t he
ab n o rmal s hrin kage p ro du ced b y t he p res en t p ro ces s .
Eco n o mically , t his wo u ld en ab le t he u s e o f a light er an d
s o mewhat cheap er p er s q u are y ard greige clo t h which
wo u ld s t ill p ro vide a s t ret chab le ? n is hed f ab ric s u ? icien t ly
heavy f o r it s u lt imat e en d u s e. Alt ern at ively , a greige
co n s t ru ct io n which is s t an dard f o r o n e s p eci? c en d u s e
may b e p ro ces s ed acco rdin g t o t he in ven t io n s o as t o p ro
du ce a s t ret chab le f ab ric o f s t an dard s p eci? cat io n s f o r a
dif f eren t en d u s e.
Alt ho u gh s p eci? cally di? eren t p ro cedu res emb o dy in g
t he in ven t io n have b een des crib ed in t he f o rego in g ex am
p les , it s ho u ld b e clearly u n ders t o o d t hat t hes e ex amp les
are illu s t rat ive o n ly an d do n o t de? n e t he limit s o f t he
in ven t io n , an d t hat vario u s chan ges in o r addit io n s t o
t he p ro cedu ral s t ep s des crib ed, which will b e ap p aren t
t o t ho s e s killed in t he art , may b e made wit ho u t dep art in g
f ro m t he in ven t ive co n cep t . Fo r ex amp le, it will b e o b
vio u s t hat cro s s lin kin g an d au x iliary agen t s o t her t han
t ho s e s p eci? cally men t io n ed may b e u s ed in t he p ro ces s
f o r t he p u rp o s e o f s t ab iliz in g t he ? llin g s t ret ch charact er
is t ics , s o f t en in g, co lo rin g an d o t herwis e imp ro vin g t he
p ro p ert ies o f t he ? n is hed f ab ric. It is eq u ally o b vio u s
t hat t he in ven t io n is ap p licab le t o wo ven co t t o n -p o ly es t er
b len d f ab rics o f widely vary in g weight s an d t y p es , an d
t hat vario u s degrees o f s t ret ch an d reco very can b e im
p art ed t o s u ch f ab rics t o meet s p eci? cally dif f eren t en d u s e
req u iremen t s . Fu rt hermo re, alt ho u gh t he ex amp les
ab o ve des crib ed relat e s p eci? cally t o b leached f ab rics , it
will b e u n ders t o o d t hat t he p ro ces s als o ap p lies t o go o ds
which are dy ed t o an y des ired co lo r, p ref erab ly p rio r t o
t he res in imp regn at in g o r heat s et t in g p has e o f t he p ro
cedu re. Ref eren ce s ho u ld t heref o re b e had t o t he ap
p en ded claims f o r a de? n it io n o f t he s co p e o f t he in ven
t io n .
What is claimed is :
1 . A p ro ces s f o r t reat in g f ab rics Wo ven en t irely f ro m
s t an dard y arn s co n s is t in g o f a b len d o f co t t o n an d p o ly
es t er ? b ers t o imp art t heret o high s t ret ch an d reco very
p ro p ert ies in t he ? llin g direct io n o n ly which co mp ris es
t he f o llo win g s t ep s :
( a) des iz in g t he f ab ric;
( b ) s hrin kin g t he des iz ed f ab ric in t he ? llin g direc
t io n b y s u b j ect in g it t o t he act io n o f a merceriz in g
agen t While main t ain in g t he f ab ric u n der t en s io n in
t he warp wis e direct io n an d in .a s u b s t an t ially u n t en
s io n ed co n dit io n in t he ? llin g direct io n ;
( c) was hin g t he f ab ric while main t ain in g it u n der t en
s io n in t he warp wis e direct io n b u t wit ho u t ap p ly in g
t en s io n in t he ? llin g direct io n u n t il s u b s t an t ially all
o f t he merceriz in g agen t has b een remo ved;
( d) dry in g t he was hed f ab ric wit ho u t s t ret chin g in t he
? llin g direct io n ;
( e) imp regn at in g t he dried f ab ric wit h a liq u id mix
t u re co n t ain in g a ? u o res cen t dy e an d a wet t in g agen t ;
( f ) dry in g t he imp regn at ed f ab ric while res t rict in g
s hrin kage t hereo f in t he ? llin g direct io n ;
( g) heat in g t he f ab ric t o s hrin k an d s t ab iliz e t he p o ly
es t er ? b ers o f t he ? llin g y arn s o f t he f ab ric while
1 0
1 5
20
25
4 0
4 5
50
55
60
65
70
- 8
main t ain in g t he f ab ric u n der t en s io n in t he warp wis e
direct io n b u t wit ho u t t en s io n in t he ? llin g direc
t io n ; an d
( h) s u b j ect in g t he f ab ric t o a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g
o p erat io n t o co n t ro l t he res idu al s hrin kage o f t he
co t t o n ? b ers o f t he f ab ric. '
2. A p ro ces s acco rdin g t o claim 1 in clu din g, b et ween
s t ep s ( g) an d ( h) , t he addit io n al s t ep s o f : '
( i) imp regn at in g t he f ab ric wit h a liq u id mix t u re co n
t ain in g a s o f t en er an d a whit e en han cin g p igmen t ;
an d
( j ) dry in g t he imp regn at ed f ab ric while co n t ro llin g t he
Widt h t hereo f - .
3 . A p ro ces s f o r t reat in g f ab rics wo ven en t irely f ro m
s t an dard y arn s co n s is t in g o f a b len d o f co t t o n an d p o ly
es t er ? b ers t o imp art t heret o high s t ret ch an d reco very
p ro p ert ies in t he ? llin g direct io n o n ly which co mp ris es
t he f o llo win g s t ep s :
( a) wet t in g t he f ab ric wit h an aq u eo u s s o lu t io n o f
s o diu m hy dro x ide o f merceriz in g s t ren gt h;
( b ) main t ain in g t he wet t ed f ab ric u n der t en s io n in t he
warp wis e direct io n an d in a s u b s t an t ially u n t en s io n ed
co n dit io n in t he ? llin g direct io n while t he s o diu m
hy dro x ide an d t he warp wis e t en s io n cau s e t he f ab ric
t o s hrin k in widt h b u t n o t in len gt h ;
( 0) was hin g t hef ab ric t o remo ve t he s o diu m hy dro x ide
while main t ain in g t he f ab ric u n der t en s io n in t he
warp wis e direct io n b u t leavin g t he f ab ric s lack in
t he ? llin g direct io n ;
( ( 1 ) dry in g t he was hed f ab ric while ap p ly in g t en s io n
in t he warp wis e direct io n ' b u t wit ho u t in creas in g t he
widt h t hereo f ; an d
( e) heat in g t he dried f ab ric at a s u f ? cien t t emp erat u re
an d f o r Ia' s u f ? cien t p erio d o f t ime t o s hrin k an d
s t ab iliz e t he p o ly es t er ? lb ers o f t he ? llin g y arn s o f
t he f ab ric while main t ain in g t he f ab ric u n der t en s io n
in t he warp wis e direct io n o n ly .
4 . A p ro ces s as claimed in claim 3 in clu din g t he addi~
t io n al s t ep o f :
( f ) s u b j ect in g t he f ab ric t o a co mp res s ive s hrin kin g o p
erat io n t o co n t ro l t he res idu al s hrin kage o f t he co t t o n
? b ers o f t he f ab ric.
5. A p ro ces s as claimed in claim 3 in clu din g, b et ween
s t ep s ( ( 1 ) an d ( e) , t he addit io n al s t ep s o f :
( g) imp regn at in g t he dried f ab ric wit h a liq u id mix
t u re co n t ain in g a s o f t en er an d a whit e en han cin g p ig
men t ; an d
( h) dry in g t he imp regn at ed f ab ric while co n t ro llin g
t he widt h t hereo f . .
Ref eren ces Cit ed b y t he Ex amin er
UNITED STATES PATENTS _
2, 4 04 , 8 3 7 7/1 94 6 Go ldt hwait _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1 3 94 21
2, 4 3 4 , 1 1 1 1 / 1 94 8 H awley et .al.. _ _ _ _ _ _ .. 28 -74 - X
2, 4 77, 652 8 / 1 94 9 Ro b b in s _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1 61 -92
2, 4 91 , 3 96 1 2/1 94 9 . Seckel _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1 61 --92
2, 774 , 1 29 1 2/1 956 Secris t _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 8 -1 25
3 , 075, 274 1 / 1 963 Miz ell _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 28 -74 '
3 , 08 6, 274 4 /1 963 Arn et t _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ' _ _ _ 28 -74
3 , 1 4 5, 1 3 2 8 /1 964 Selt z er _ ' _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ..28 --76 X
3 , 1 4 6, 575 9/1 964 Lu n d et al. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 28 --76 X.
' FOREIGN PATENTS
64 9, 666 1 0/ 1 962 _ Can ada.
~ OTH ER REFERENCES
Du Po n t Tex t ile Fib ers _ Dacro n Po ly es t er Fib er E. I. v
du Po n t de Nemo u rs an d Co . Bu llet in D-SQ, Ju n e 1 955.
: MERVIN STEIN, Primary Ex amin er. Y
MACKEY,
DONALD W. PARKER, ROBERT R.
. . . Ex amin ers .
H . G. GARNER, H . s . JAUDON, As s is t an t Ex amin ers .