TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

REPORT
Arvind Mills, Naroda



Abstract-
The document contains the report
for a fifteen day textile internship at
Arvind Mills, Naroda plant.

Submitted By-
Aditya Kohli
Prateek Kapoor

Mentor-
Prof. Pavan Godiawala

11
th
July, 2014

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
GANDHINAGAR
Page 1 of 97



Table of Contents
Part I
1. Certificate For Completing Internship 4-6
2. Acknowledgement 7
3. Project Abstract 8
4. Objective of Internship 9
5. Indian Textile Industry 10
6. Company Profile 11-16
Part II
Raw Material Store Room 17-19
Part III
Spinning Department 20-35
i. Introduction
ii. Process Flow
iii. Blow Room Section
iv. Carding Section
v. Drawing Section
vi. Combing Section
vii. Spinning Section
Part IV
Dyeing Department 36-50
i. Introduction
ii. Rope Dyeing
a) Preparatory Process b)
c) Machine Specifications d)
e) Process Flow f)
i. Slasher Dyeing
a) Preparatory Process b)
c) Machine Specifications d)
e) Process Flow f)
Part V
Sizing Department 51-53
Part VI
Weaving Section 54-65
i. Introduction
ii. Types of Looms
iii. Air-Jet Loom
a) Principle b)
c) Loom Motions d)
e) Advantages f)
g) Machine Specifications h)
i) Process Flow j)
k) Major Defects That Arise l)
m) Role of Labour Force n)
Page 2 of 97



Part VII
Finishing And Processing Department 66-78
i. Introduction
ii. Classification of Finishes
iii. Singeing Unit
a) Objective b)
c) Process Flow d)
e) Machine Specification f)
g) Methods of Singeing h)
iv. Mercerizing Unit
a) Objective b)
c) Process Flow d)
e) Machine Specification f)
g) Factors for Mercerization h)
v. Stenter Unit
a) Objective b)
c) Process Flow d)
e) Machine Specifications f)
g) Components of Stenter Machine h)
vi. Foam Finisher
a) Objective b)
c) Process Flow d)
e) Machine Specifications f)
g) Advantages h)
vii. Integrated Wet Finishing Unit
a) Introduction b)
c) Process Flow. d)
Part VIII
Inspection and Testing Department 79-87
i. Introduction
ii. Inspection System
iii. Types of Testing
Part IX
Packaging Department 88
i. Process Flow
ii. Machine Specifications
Part X
DNTG Department (R&D) 89-91
i. Design Team
ii. Technical Team
Part XI
Policies Regarding Environment Friendliness And Care 92-94
Part XII
Accreditions 95-96
Page 3 of 97



Part XII
References 97






















Page 4 of 97













Certificate for Completing Internship












Page 5 of 97





Page 6 of 97





Page 7 of 97



Acknowledgement


I would like to thank Arvind, Naroda unit for giving me the opportunity to undergo
a training in the textile department and for extending their support towards us all
throughout our internship.
I would also like to thank NIFT, Gandhinagar for giving us this opportunity and
facilitating our internship.
It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned
and advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all the people who
guided us through the entire process and made our training a success by sharing
their knowledge.
I would like to thank Ms. Richa Ahuja, Sr. H.R. at Arvind, without whose support
and guidance the internship couldnt have been completed satisfactorily.
I am also grateful to our College mentor Prof. Pavan Godiawala for guiding us at
every stage and making this project a success.












Page 8 of 97



Project Abstract


Project type Textile internship
Industry Arvind Mills Limited Lifestyle Fabrics
Address Denim Division
Arvind Limited
Naroda Road
Ahmedabad 380025
Gujarat
India
Tel: +91-79-30138000
Fax: +91-79-30138671

Mentor Ms. Richa Ahuja





Page 9 of 97



Objective of Internship


The project is based on a fifteen day internship, in Arvind Mills denim Department.
It covers all the information and learning experiences related to manufacturing of
textiles, denim in this case and all the processes involved namely:
Spinning
Dyeing
Weaving
Finishing
Testing
Packaging
The main objectives of the project/internship were:
1. Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.
2. In-depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile
production and the machinery and equipment used.
3. Knowledge about the company
4. Understanding the companys process flow in production
5. Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.
6. Asses the faults and critical factors of production and determine the
practices adopted by Arvind Mills.









Page 10 of 97



Indian Textile Industry


Indian textile industry and Market Size
- Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production
- 4 per cent of National GDP
- 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings
Market Size
- India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the current
4% to around 7% over the next three-years
Growth Rate
- 3-4 percent during the last six decade
- 9-10 percent during last five year
Scope of rivalry
- Raymond India
- Welspun India Ltd
- Alok Industries
- Gokaldas Exports
- Arvee Industries
- Bharat Vijay mills

















Page 11 of 97



Company Profile

Introduction to the Company

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs. 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year
1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested
in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles
and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with
spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing,
bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after
establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh.
In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power
loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills
lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at
its highest level of profitability. At this point of time Arvinds management coined a
new word for it new strategy Renovision. It simply meant a new way of looking at
issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted
from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods.
Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom
pointed to popular priced segments, Renovision pointed to high quality premium
niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim
for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By
1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third
largest producer of Denim in the world.
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the
largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a most
modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also
established.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to increase its current operations by
setting up world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, by
offering garment packages to its international and domestic customers.
Of Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of
Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision of becoming
the largest apparel brands company in India.


Page 12 of 97



Arvind Portfolio


Board of Directors
CHAIRMAN-
Mr Arvind N. Lalbhai
He is a Science Graduate and has been associated with the Company for over 60
years. He has been the Director since March 1974 and Managing Director since
January 1975 till November 2002. He is the former President of the Federation of
Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry.
WHOLETIME DIRECTORS
Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, Managing Director
A Science Graduate with a Masters degree in Business Management, has been
associated with the Company for more than 25 years.
Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, Director Finance
A Chartered Accountant having distinguished academic and professional career, has
been with the group since the last 17 years.
OTHER DIRECTORS
Mr. Deepak M. Satwalekar
A B. Tech. from The Indian Institute of Technology (IIT), Gandhinagar and a post-
graduate in Business Administration from The American University, Washington
DC, he is the Managing Director of HDFC since 1993; He is also Managing Director
and Chief Executive Officer of HDFC Standard Life Insurance Corporation Ltd.; He
Page 13 of 97



has been a Consultant to the World Bank, Asian Development Bank, and other
bilateral and multilateral agencies and has worked in several countries. He is a
member of Governing Council of various management and educational institutions
and government expert groups.
Ms. Rama Bijapurkar
She is a Bsc (Hons) and MBA from IIM A and has worked for McKinsey, Lintas and
has been the Deputy Managing Director of MARG and a founder Director of MODE
Services. She has also been consulting Hindustan Lever and other Indian and
Multinational Corporates. She is visiting Professor at IIM- A. and is on the Board of
Infosys Technologies Ltd., CRISIL, Titan Industries and Godrej Consumer Products
Ltd.
Mr. Jaithirth Rao
With a Masters Degree from the University of Chicago and IIM-Ahmedabad, he is
the Chairman and CEO of MphasiS BFL Ltd. and is on the Board of Cadbury India
Ltd., Mahindra Holidays & Resorts India Ltd., IDFC Asset Management Company
Limited and Gabriel India Limited
Mr. S. Sridhar (Nominee of EXIM Bank)
He is an Executive Director of Export-Import Bank of India
Mr. Balaji Swaminathan (Nominee of ICICI Bank)
A Sr. Gen. Manager and Chief Financial Officer of ICICI Bank Ltd, he is also Director
on the Board of ICICI Infotech Ltd., ICICI One-Source Ltd., Kalyani Forge Ltd.,
Orient Paper & Industries Ltd. and Unison Hotels Ltd.
Mr. V.K.Pandit (Nominee of IDBI)
He is a retired IAS Officer. Former Secretary to the Government of India. He is on
the Board of Shree Maheshwar Hydel Power Corporation Ltd. , Induj Enertech Ltd.
and Neyveli Lignite Corporation Ltd.








Page 14 of 97



Companys Vision
(Information as collected from Company Website)

WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving;
in teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent,
and to build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and
activate all intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavours; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the
world a better place to live in.
Arvind Denim Division
Arvind is a pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed
capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant accounts for 89%
of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million metres.
CEO of Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar
There are many delightful features of Arvind denim: the position of 3rd largest
producer of denim in the world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide.
Prominent products in this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic
denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular
light, medium and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo,
sulphur, yarn-dyed, in 100% cotton and various blends.
Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their
success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market leaders.
They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New technology that
is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of sophisticated ultramodern
technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to
deliver many firsts in the international markets. The facilities of Arvind Denim are
accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, Organic exchange
standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the largest denim
producers in the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia,
the Far East and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification)
The labs are accredited by DuPont, Levi Strauss.
Page 15 of 97



Major International Buyers


LEVI STRAUSS

GAP

H&M

MISS SIXTY

ALSO:
MANGO


ABERCROMBIE AND
FITCH

JACK AND JONES

PANTAGONIA


CALVIN KLIEN

ZARA

ESPRIT

Page 16 of 97






Arvind Owned Brands For Denim



EXCALIBUR


FLYING
MACHINE
The Flying Machine brand is the
oldest homegrown denim brand
for Arvind. In 2007, it was revived
and re-launched in a different
avatar with a new logo,
placement and philosophy. Since
then it has witnessed
tremendous growth. Now the
company wants to take it to the
top three level.

NEW PORT


RUFF & TUFF








DIESEL

Page 17 of 97



Raw Material Store Room

OBJECTIVE
The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the
plant. The main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and
reconciliation of raw material intended for manufacturing.

(Raw Materials were placed in the storage Room as per their sourcing places.)

SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE
Work takes place in the following systematic order:-
1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed
at Naroda road, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.
2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements
by the Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.
3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment
Department (PPC).
4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all
the characteristics of the yarn required.
5. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department.

Page 18 of 97



ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT
It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the
required material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected
material and returns it to the seller end.
Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:
1. Pakistan Cotton
2. J34 SG
i. It is a selection from non-descriptive hirustum mixtures. Re-selection from
Bikaneri Narma. It is sown in the months of April/May and the crop is ready for
picking by October/December.. J34RG and SG are grown in the states of Punjab,
Haryana and Rajasthan and total production per annum is around 2.6 million bales
of each of 170 Kg.
3. Shankar-6 Gujarat cotton
i.It is sown in the month of June-July and is ready for picking in November and may
extend upto February. It is cultivated in an area of 4.4 million Acres in the state of
Gujarat.
4. Organic cotton
a. Organic cotton is being produced in-house by arvind mills, and also being
procured from fully organic certified farms, as some environment conscious
customers prefer to use it.
b. Arvinds organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing
belt district of Maharashtra; Akola. )


Page 19 of 97



CAPACITY OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT
The textile industry is based on raw material capacity, which costs from 70 to 80% of
industry cost. It capacity is about 1870 tons.

MATERIAL PURCHASE
In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibers and short staple fibers from
Andra Pradesh, Rajasthan,Punjab,Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain
prerequisites are considered as to what kind of cotton fibers are required like
Length, Strength, Fineness (micronium per inch), Uniformity Ratio.
Geeta cotton Co. Pvt. Ltd. (Andhra Pradesh)
Sai Venkata agro industries pvt.ltd(Andhra Pradesh)
Sri Ganganagar Pvt. Ltd. (Rajasthan) etc.


















Page 20 of 97




Spinning Department

1. Arvind Mills, Naroda has in-house Open-end spinning unit
2. ArvindIntex, Spintex (separate premises) for Ring spun yarn
3. DDSP plant(separate premises) for Ring spun yarn
The initial stage of denim production is opening and blending of cotton fibers.
Opening begins with baled cotton fibers being separated into small tufts. A blend of
cotton fibers is made on each opening line. These bales are usually selected based on
the basic cotton data, i.e. fiber length, uniformity, maturity and strength.
Cotton is delivered by air suction from the opening and blending lines, through
additional cleaning and blending machines, to the cards. The major functions of
carding are to remove foreign matter and short fibers from the cotton and convert it
into a web and covert the web into a rope like Form known as sliver. These card
slivers, usually a group of six or eight, are then passed through drawing frames and
this process produces a single uniform sliver. The additional blending, parallelizing
of fibers and cleaning in this process produces a sliver for Open end and Ring
spinning.

Open-end Spinning
Drawing frame slivers are fed to open-end machine. Cotton fibers are formed into a
yarn by centrifugal action in Open end spinning. Individual fibers are laid down in
the groove of a fast spinning rotor and twisted into yarn. After the cotton fibers spun
into yarn, the yarn is wound into a large package on the same machine.
In Open end spinning machines, there are moving robots on each side, which
automatically pieces up broken ends. On the different track, there is another robot
that automatically doffs the full packages and starts up a new package. The size and
quality of each yarn end are monitored by the computer system to ensure
uniformity.

Ring Spinning
In case of Ring spinning, this drawing sliver passes through roving frame before
final spinning process whereas for Open end spinning it goes directly to the open-
end machine.
In the Ring spinning, yarn is formed from cotton fibers that are twisted together after
being drafted by passing between a set of top and bottom rollers. The yarn then is
Page 21 of 97



wrapped on a bobbin as it spins on a spindle by use of a traveller. The relationship
between roll speeds, traveller speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount of
twist in the yarn.
Fascination provision provided on the spinning machines help producing various
Slub patterns in the yarn as per desire. Denim made from such yarn has got different
character and surface interest than the normal yarn.

PROCESS FLOWCHART OF BLOWROOM


Blow room operations
Owing to the mode of cotton picking, cotton gathering in the fields and subsequent
collection and handling till the final bales are ready, quite a good deal of impurities
get associated with it. Besides, by the time the bales are brought to the mixing room
even the bale surfaces become untidy due to foreign impurities sticking to them. To
remove all such impurities from the cotton, blow-room sequence of machines is
quite necessary. They were blended as 20% bale of Kalyan,20%from Pakistan, 50% of
Bunny/ brahma and 10% comber noil.Second line contains 60:30:10
(Bunny/brahma:kalyan:Pakistan)




BDT
(Blendomat)
GRR (Bale
opener)
AFC (Axi
Flow
Cleaner)
MPM
(Multiple
Mixers)
ASTA (Heavy
Particle
material
separator)
BE
961(Cleaning
Machine)
SRS-6(step
Cleaner)
RN (Cleaning
Machine)
BE-961
(Cleaning
Machine)
RSK
(Cleaning
Machine)
DUSTEX
(Micro dust
Cleaner)
FBK-533
Card
Page 22 of 97





BLENDING (BDT Blendomat)
The Blendomat machine moves on x & y co-ordinates. Y co-ordinates vary from
maximum 1789 to minimum 993.
The machine is installed on 8th march 1995.
Objective:
To open the cotton from matted condition to the loose open state in which it was
before baling.
Bale Specification
Bale Capacity : 1000 1200
Bales Imported: 220 230 Kgs
1 Bale : 165 170 Kgs


Machine Specification (Blendomat bdt 019)
Place of Origin: Germany
Brand Name : Trutzschler
Model Number: Blendomat BDT 019
Type : BLENDOMAT
Depth (Limit) : 93-1789 Metres
The machine takes up 50-60 cotton bales
(approx.) in 8.5 hours. Each cotton bale
weight 165 kgs.

Machine main supply : 3Ph/Ac, 415V, 50Hz.
Control circuit : 1Ph/Ac, 24V, 50Hz
US patent no. : 4.321.732
Model no. : BDT 019/2300





Machine Details and Observations
2 Hooks in reverse directions (Forward and backward)
Page 23 of 97



The hook movement is opposite to the direction of machine movement.
Hooks are used to lift the cotton fiber so that opening can take place.
Sensors to prevent any disturbances
Mode of bale laying Manual
Material in process cotton with seeds and impurities.
Steps:
Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending
apron.
Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by
the roll.
Some of the cotton stays on apron.
The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to blend until picked up again by
apron.
Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll.
Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process that is blending
through an overhead duct.
It has been done to obtain uniformity in cotton blending
OPENING


Machine used: GBR cotton opener- opens about 400 kg/hr
Page 24 of 97



Steps:
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The
rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and
loosen up the mass.
The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by
fan.
This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen
rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.
Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to
another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to
picker.

Why its been done?
It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning
is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds.

GBR
Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8
it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while
harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some re not. So that it will
affect the fabric. So, after homogenous mixing all will be the same.

AXI Flow Cleaner
This is fitted with beaters .Cotton moves from GBR to axiflow by suction and
impurities fall below in a bin under the gravitational pull. Objective of AFC is
separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.The opened up mass of fiber
rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder steel pins which beat the
fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to be separated.The time (in hours) of the
passage of material can be regulated The speed range of the beaters varies from 400-
600 rpm.




Page 25 of 97




MACHINE MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER
(GERMANY)
MODEL: 052-2502
PRESSURE: 50-75 bar
MAJOR PARTS: Two metallic perforated cylinders
and waste collector

MPM multiple mixer-
Fitted with eight beaters. This sucks cotton from axiflowand pumps to asta
meanwhile sorting the cotton fibers.Generally used for homogenous mixture of
fibers
MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER
MODEL: 10236
MOTOR SPEED: 1750 rpm
OPENING ROLLS SPEED: 800-850 m/min
NUMBER OF CHAMBERS: 10
OUTPUT: 30-36%
PRESSURE: 350 bar
Major parts: This machine consists of material feed, reserve tank, reserve tank flaps,
optical sensor delivery, rollers, and material suction funnel.

ASTA:
Objective of ASTA is Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air and material
enters the separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle plates. Heavy
particles are removed away from the lighter fibers by negative acceleration and the
force of gravity. The lower channel generates an opulent air stream in the area of
baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.



Page 26 of 97





MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)
MODEL: ASTA 800
PRINCIPLE: principle of aerodynamics

DUSTEX:
Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely
enclosed in the flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove
dust 64% dust.

MAKE: TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)
MODEL: CVT-4 1600
NO. OF MACHINES: 2
CLEANING EFFICIENCY: 64%

Cotton through Carding
Carding is the heart of the entire spinning process and as such requires utmost care.
Next to blow room, carding is the only major stage for cleaning cotton.

Objective
The object of carding is to open out thoroughly the tiny lumps or locks to a state
where every fiber becomes individualized and the cotton is no more in an entangled
state. Equally important is the removal of all the impurities, short fibers, etc. and
finally it has to prepare the well cleaned material into a compact sliver form and lay
into containers for subsequent process.
Page 27 of 97



Carding theory
In carding there is an intensive teasing action on a mass of fibers in order to separate
it into individual fibers. In practice the opening, cleaning and separation actions are
simultaneously taking place at one point or the other.
Process
Elimination of impurities.
Collection of cleaned or carded fiber
Short fiber separation.

Machine Details and Observations
The carding process essentially involves the opening of fibre aggregates by working
between two closely spaced surfaces covered with inclined wires. The main objects
of carding are:
To carry further process of fibres opening to a state of fibre individualization
To remove neps, tiny lumps of fibres
To deliver a continuous sliver for further processes.
To remove impurities from the material by individual fibre separation.
To enable parallelization of fibres.
The carding machine is supplied with cotton flocks through FBK ducts continuously.
The cotton then traverses through the rollers. The material is fed inside with the help
of feed roller which is located above the feed plate. The feed roller is followed by the
licker-in cylinder.
There is a licker in undercasing and back plate below and in front of the rollers
respectively. Undercasing is a perforated plate which is responsible for collection of
the waste removal from the card. Back plate is positioned between the licker-in and
cylinder. Front plate is positioned between cylinder and the doffer. Both have spikes
and perform the same function as that of the set of cylinder and flats.
Flats are clothing on the rollers which is in the form of spiked belt. There are 102 flats
of which about 42 are in working position at time of contact with cylinder. Cylinder
moves very fast as compared to the flats. Due to this movement, the best fibres are
straightened, made parallel and opening and cleaning is performed.
The back plate and front plate reduces the loading on the cylinder. The voids
between the cylinder, licker-in and cylinder, doffer are thus covered by front and
back plates.
The cylinder is having the main function of opening and cleaning the fibres.
Page 28 of 97



The main function of the doffer is to collect the fibres from the cylinder and deliver
them in the form of a web. The function of the licker-in is breaking and opening of
the tufts of cotton and pass them onto the cylinder without retaining any of them.
To get optimum performance from the various elements of a card, it is essential to
use the right type and right combination of wire clothing. The metallic wire
particulars which could influence the carding process are: wire width, wire point
density, tooth angle, shape and height.
Carding performance can be improved by increasing the number of teeth cross wise
along the width of the card. This has led to the development of finer rib wires. The
doffer is clothed with a wire which has a higher trapping and holding power than
the cylinder wire. Thus it has a greater point density than cylinder wire.
Cotton carding

Machine Specifications
Cylinder Speed 450-500 rpm
Licker-in Speed 1100-1200 rpm
Doffer Speed 25-30 rpm
Flat Speed 22-25 cm/min
Cylinder Diameter 1290 mm
Licker-in Diameter 250 mm
Doffer Diameter 500 mm
Can Diameter 24
Can Height 42

Technical Specifications
Linear Density of Lap Fed 400 gm/m
Rate of Feed 500 gm/min
Length of Sliver/Can 5500 m
Weight of Sliver/Can 26 kg
Linear Density of Sliver 4.8 gm/m
Page 29 of 97



Production/min 85 m/min
Production/hour 5100 m/hr
Production (kg/hr) 25 kg/hr

At Arvind mills, Naroda:
No of carding machines: 14 machines
Brand name of machine: Trutzschler



Fibers through drawing
In the spinning process, the next important stage in the cotton process is draw frame.
By carding the entangled mass of fibers is well opened so that every fiber becomes
quite free. These individual fibers lie criss-cross in the web. These fibers require be
straightening and parallelizing to the possible extent.

Objective of drawing
To straightened the fibers in the slivers.
To make them lie in a manner parallel to their neighbours and to the sliver axis.
To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers.


Page 30 of 97




(Drawing of sliver)



Process
Fibers imparts slivers are irregularly arranged and need improvement both in
uniformity and fiber straightening. It is accomplished by drafting them with pairs of
rollers which are made to revolve at different surface speeds.
Machine Maker: Padmatex/Trutzschler
MODEL: Padmatex 720/HSR 900
Objective: To parallise fibre to each other
To even out
weight/unit length
Drafting Systems: 4 over 3-Spring loaded top arm
No of doubling: 6
Drafting : 6
Machine Speed: 650 rpm
Average cycle time: 15min
Capacity/day: 3.5 tons
No of workmen/shift: 3
Input Material: 6 Sliver
Output Material: 1 Sliver

Doubling
Page 31 of 97



Twisting together to a more yarns to form one final yarn is known as doubling. The
object of doubling is to combine two or more yarns to get:
Much stronger yarns
More regular yarns
Yarns for different purpose and
Novel or fancy effects
Yarns are combined either in one stage or in several stages, either in dry or in wet
state, either with identical tensions or in varying degrees of tension, similar yarns or
dissimilar yarns etc. Doubling sequences components threads, grouping styles at
each operation, direction of twist, doubling conditions (wet or dry) etc., alter the
very appearance of the final product, inspire of the same basic single yarns
employed.



Production
The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology/rotar
spinning and produces 5400 to 5500 tonnes of yarn a month with 5472 rotars being
around on campus.
The speed of the rotar roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.
Machine installed : autocoro comb+spin technology
Corolab - automated yarn monitoring system(automatic detection of defects by
drop wire technology)
The maximum count of yarn is 20.







Page 32 of 97



Open end spinning:


Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation compared to Ring
Spinning.
This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the yarn
without the need for package rotation. Allowing higher twisting speeds with a
relatively low power cost.
In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered from delivery rollers
off a drafting system or from an opening unit.
The fibres are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the groove of the
rotor as a continuous ring of fibre. The fibre layer is stripped off the rotor groove and
the resultant yarn wound onto a package.
The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational speed of the
rotor and the linear speed of the yarn.
Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening
roller.
The fibres are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force
deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed.
The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor, and the yarn is
continuously drawn from the centre of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any
defects and wound onto packages.
The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring
spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn is wound onto
packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is a lot cheaper to produce.
Page 33 of 97



Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a harsher feel than
ring spun yarns.
Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne, 20 tex) to
coarse count (10 Ne, 60 Tex) range.
The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.
The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver, not as with the
ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed frame from the process line. It can
also be modified to remove any remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn
quality.

The OE spinning process is employed for production of slub yarns. The same
procedure is followed till the sliver stage. During the yarn formation, a special
attachment is added with Autocoro.
A program is fed into the attachment specifying -
Slub length
Slub diameter
Slub frequency
Now the rotor adjusts itself and takes the fibers according to the given specifications
providing knots/slobs at different intervals throughout the yarn length.

No. of Autocoro machines: 7 each with 240 Heads
Page 34 of 97





Layout of spinning department


Facts and Figures
- O.E. spinning Production = 10 times Production of Ring frame
- Fiber procured from Maharashtra, Haryana, and Gujarat
- Impact of Recession: Production, Quality, Maintenance has reduced.
- Labour cut down from 86 to 63
- Production: 60 tonnes per day
- 72tonnes per day ring yarn
- Otherwise imported from Alok, Abhishek, Vardhmaaan, Nahar spinning mills etc
- Efficiency: 91%
- Count Ranges (Ne) - OE Yarn: 5.3s to 20s, Ring Yarn: 6.4s to 20s

Major Problems:
B
L
E
N
D
O
M
E
T

SLEEVE ROOM
FILTER
ROOM
CARDING DEPARTMENT


DRAWFRAMES

COTTON
GODOWN
A
U
T
O
C
O
R
O

S
T
O
R
A
G
E

OFFICE

AUTOCORO DEPARTMENT
Page 35 of 97



Carding Neps which in turn become major defect in fabric and is caused due
to wire run out and low micronium per inch fibre.
Solution:
1. Gauge and settings should be accurate.
2. Condition of wires.
Yarn formed is usually of coarser count. Finer counts cannot be made.
Trash In the Card Sliver
Solution:
1. Improve the condition of flat tops,
2. Cleaning and machine setting.
3. Suction
4. Gauges

















Page 36 of 97



Dyeing Department

CAPACITY:
Total Capacity 110 million meters per annum
Slasher Capacity 70 million meters per annum
Rope Capacity 40 million meters per annum

Dyes used:
Indigo blue- china
Sulphur dye- Black, Brown, Green
In Arvind Mills the yarn is dyed and then it is weaved. The yarn dyeing is done by
two methods:










YARN
DYEING
ROPE
DYEING
SLASHER
DYEING
Page 37 of 97



ROPE DYEING

I. BALL WARPING UNIT
This is the preparatory process for ROPE DYEING. In ball warping, 250 to 400 yarn
ends are pulled from the creel. Rope dyeing is followed by Re-beaming process. The
planning for the no. of ends in the rope is decided on the basis of the no. of ends in
the weavers beam This is done as follows: Consider a fabric with 4000 ends.
Package
Ball warping
Ball (Ends: 400, Length: 2000m)
Rope dyeing (Balls: 50)
Rebeaming
Unsized Beam (Ends: 400, Length: 2000m)
Sizing (Beams: 10)
Weavers Beam (Ends: 4000; Length: 2000m; No. of sets: 5)
Ball warping involves creeling multiple ends of yarn and selecting them into an
untwisted rope for dyeing. The ball warping is similar to normal warping with an
attachment to make a compact structure instead of full width weavers beam. This
rope is wound on a long cylinder called a ball warper .And this is use as supply
package for rope dyeing.

Creel Reed Guide rolls (for compaction) Rope

II. ROPE DYEING
Denim dyeing is highly sophisticated. Indigo is a vat dye and is insoluble in water.
Although full shades can be obtained from the concentrated dyeing vats in only one
pass, such dyeing have inadequate fastness because indigo in the vatted or reduced
state has only limited affinity for cotton.
Dyeing is not in the fabric form but in the yarn stage. The warps are dyed; fabric is
made using undyed or different colored weft. Yarn dyeing is basically of two types:
ROPE DYEING and SLASHER DYEING (sheet dyeing).The dyeing principle is same
i.e. passing the material through a dip vat, a subsequent squeezing to remove the
excess and giving air passage to allow the dyeing to oxidize.
Page 38 of 97




(Rope Dyeing Machine Model)
Dyeing Styles:
- IBST: Indigo Bottom Sulphur Top
- SBIT: Sulphur Bottom Indigo Top
- Indigo
- Sulphur
- Others: GBIT, VBIT, IBVT, IBBT, IBKT, Super Dark, IBIT etc.

Page 39 of 97




The first section is known as setup section but after that it comes the machine layout
portion i.e. there are 19 Boxes through which Rope passes for pre-wetting section



Tank-1
PREWETTING: - This process is used to increase dye uptake and wet ability by mild
scouring to remove wax material and impurities. Bath contains sequestering agent,
wetting agent and caustic.
In SBIT, Sulphur bottoming is done in this tank
Type: 1dip, 1 nip; Temperature: 50

C
Tank Capacity: 6000l
Dip Time: 39 sec.; Aeration Time: 24 sec (at speed of 20m/min)
Page 40 of 97



Prewetting Solution: Caustic (15gpl), PrimasolNF(wetting)

Tank-2-6
PRE-WASHING:- Used for removal of caustic and other chemicals from the rope.
Mercerization can also be carried out but again it is mild as there is no provision for
stretching and shrinkage. Mercerization (Floating Roller Type) is done to increase
dimensional stability, lustre and absorbency.
Temperature: 50

C (Tank 2 and 3), R.T. (Tank 4), Tank 5 and 6 are usually bypassed
(Note: Bath temperatures are maintained by steam-heated coils)

(Pre Washing Bath)

Tank-7-12
DYE BATH: - Used to carry out ring dyeing of denim with indigo. Repetitive dip and
nip are carried out. Aeration length is provided for oxidation of indigo.
Type: 1 dip 1 nip; Temperature: R.T.; Tank Capacity: 7200l
pH-12.7-12.8; Potential : Dependent on dyeing style
Dip time: 27 sec Aeration Time: 3 min (at speed 20m/min)

Tank-13
Page 41 of 97



This bath may contain sulphur/indigo as per IBST or SDI style
For sulphur topping Temperature: 85
o
C
(Note hardness of nip rollers varies from 70 to 80)

Tank-14
This bath may contain indigo if we are going for dark indigo or it may contain water
for washing if IBST style is running on the machine.

Tank-15
WASH BATH: - Detergent is used to remove superficial dye from the rope. Water
jets are also used at nip to remove unfixed dye
Temperature: 65
O
C; Tank Capacity: 3200-4000l
Detergent used: Refnol DSW

Tank-16-18
POST-WASHING: To remove detergent or superficial dye

Tank-19
Softener helps in separation of ends in the Rebeaming process
Softeners for SDI style SWPI (80gpl) and SRPL (pH-5.9)
SBIT style- BA and Acid
IBST style- SPWBA (4-6 pH).
DRYING UNIT: Steaming/drying unit has 48 cylinders (3 sets) each with 5kg
pressure.
Page 42 of 97




(Drying cylinders in Rope Dyeing)

COILING: The dyed rope is coiled in cans and taken to Rebeaming section
Page 43 of 97




(Dyed Rope Coiled in Cans)

Facts and figures:
Circulation is provided in each tank to ensure uniformity using overflowing
system.
The machine has 2 jumbo pumps and 3 centrifugal pumps.
Redox and pH are measured after every 30 min.
Auto levellers are there to adjust tension using resistors.
Dyeing Capacity: 50 balls which is the highest in the world.
Rope dyeing unit has a control room which controls the concentration of
various baths via dosages and checking the shades using hunter lab.
About 97% shade consistency is there.
The machine stops for 5 hrs. if the new styles come.
30 different styles can be worked with different machine.
No of machines: -1.
There are one operator, two asst. operators and 6 workers.
Three workers are for color preparation and the rest are for oiling and
patrolling.
Page 44 of 97



DYE PREPARATION
a. Indigo preparation:
200kg indigo + 150kg caustic + 250kg hydrosulphite in 700-1000l water
Mix indigo and caustic in water for 2-3 hrs, cool for 1 hr and then add hydrosulphite
and again cool for 1 hr
b. Sulphur dye preparation:-
Sulphur(x) + sulphite (1.2x) + premasol + decol + setapol (2gpl) + caustic (.5x)
Dosage is set and controlled by air valve

III. REBEAMING
The dyed rope is rebeamed in a beam of width same as that of weavers beam. The
rope is opened by passing it through a reed which ensures that the first end in the
ball remains the first end in the weavers beam.

(Dyed Rope is Rebeamed in a beam)
Machine Specifications:
Make: West point WP
No. of Machines: 13
Machine mode: Semi-automatic with manual compression breaking system
Speed: 100-250m/min
Page 45 of 97



Production: 33000meters/shift

Precautions
The thread should not break and the knot should be so small that it should pass
through the needle eye.
Objective
The rope is converted into sheet and they also check for the shading yarn,
which remains undyed during the dyeing process.
One set of 10 beams giving for further sizing.
There are 20 workers per shift.
Per Shift Production:
1st -33,000 meter
2nd 33,000 meter
3rd 30,000 meter












Page 46 of 97



SLASHER DYEING (SUCKER MULLER)
A slasher is a range and is normally employed to apply size formulations onto warp
yarns before weaving. This range, when used for slasher dyeing of indigo, consists of
section beams of warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn.


A slasher is a range is normally employed to apply size formulations onto
warp yarns before weaving.
This range when used for slasher dyeing of indigo consists of section beams
of warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn. 1 beam is 2500mts in
length.
12 beams layers are put together in a sheet.
Creel zone Pretwet zone
Wasing zone(50
degrees.
22m/min)
Indigo Dyeing Washing Pre- drying
sizing Post drying Compensator
Page 47 of 97




(12 beams are put together in a sheet)

Each beam has 575 ends.
This yarn sheet is then fed into a scouring and washing section where natural
impurities are removed.
Temperature of 50 C is maintained and the sheet of yarns is under water for 4-
5 seconds. The next section is where indigo is applied. In order to achieve
fairly deep shades, the indigo is applied in a series of 6 dips(After each dip,
darker shade is obtained, green oxidises to blue ) and sky applications to
allow for shade build up. There is continuous color feed in the dye bath. The
dye application is followed by afterwashing (normal water at 50 C) and
drying. With some machinery arrangement, warp size for weaving is
immediately applied. For sizing the temperature of 90 C is maintained in
starch solution.
After starching post drying is carried out (5-7 % moisture) and thereafter
there comes the leasing zone, where there is separation of layers which were
pressed together. Here the number of beams in the leasing zone is equal to the
number of layer pressed together, i.e. 12 beams. The next section is the
headstock; here rolls on beams are prepared for weaving.

Page 48 of 97





Slasher Dye Range
Slasher dyeing ranges have a number of advantages and unique characteristics.
Slasher dyeing employs a sheet of yarn, which is wound directly onto a warp beam
rather than ropes of yarn, which then requires additional handling. This type of
dyeing works well with lightweight denims. In general, these machines require less
floor space, enable smaller production runs, have a quicker turn over time, and are
more flexible in their response to changes in the market. As an overall process these
ranges have lower machinery cost; therefore, lower dye costs are realized for specific
fabric types. Additionally, the slasher dyeing technique can be used for other dye
types for cotton and thus can produce a wide variety of colours other than indigo
blue.

(The sheet of yarns is dyed in a series of 6 dips)
The chemicals used in the dyeing and sizing range are as under:
Page 49 of 97



(For dyeing)
Chemical Name Description Brand

Mercerol QWLF

Mercerizing agent

Clarient
Indigo Dye stuff China
Hyrdo Reducer for indigo BASF
Caustic soda 50% liquid For general purpose Local

Premasol NF

Anti Foaming Agent

BASF
Setamol BL Dispersing Agent BASF
Sodium Sulfide Reducer for Sulfur Black China
Sulfur Black BR-200% Dye stuff Arvind
Formic acid for pH control Local
Hydrogen peroxide for oxidation Local

(For sizing)
Chemical Name Description

Brand
Texo-Film Maiz Starch Sizing Rafhan
Size-O-Bond Sizing Softener FFD
Wax Sizing wax Local
Size CB Binder BASF

The difference between slasher dyeing and rope dying is:
Page 50 of 97



Rope dyeing Slasher dyeing
Warp yarn are in the form of a
rope
Warp yarns are in the form of a
beam
Can only handle dying capacity
of more than 11000 m.
Short slots not possible
Can handle dying capacity of
more than 5000 m
Short slots possible
Good depth of shade and lower
washdown
Shade of depth not that good
No center to Selvedge shade
variation
Center to selvedge shade
variation may occur

Rebeaming is required after
process hence more time
consuming
Rebeaming is not required.
More expensive machine as it is
huge
Less expensive machine
It can only be done for coarse
yarns, as the tension of the rope
breaks the yarn
Can be done for fine yarns too
Oxidation time is much greater The immersion and oxidation
times are lower










Page 51 of 97



Sizing Department

There are complete automatic computerized sizing machines (Benninger). Here they
can load 2 sets at a time. In this machine, 2 sizing boxes having capacity of 400x2 lit
in which warp sheet passes through in such a way that 6beams(half sheet) pass
through 1
st
size box and other half sheet pass through 2
nd
size box and then they
combine together for weave able beams. The avg. maximum workable speed is
4560m/min. the avg. production of this dept. per day is ~50,000m. Following
chemicals we are currently using in Sizing are:

Chemical Name Description Company
Texo-Film Maiz Starch Starch Rafhan
Arca Base Acrylic Binder FFD Brothers
Size-O-Bond Sizing Softener FFD
Brothers


Checking and monitoring the sizing process
Programming the machine:-
The easy to follow visualization and recipe management, in which all the machine
and textile parameters are stored, permit fast and simple programming.

Sizing monitoring:-
Page 52 of 97



The sizing process is automatically monitored. All setpoints are specified with upper
and lower tolerance limits. Deviations from the programmed value are displayed at
once and instructions for their rectification are explained in the language of the
operator.

Controlled tensions:-
The special arrangement of rollers in the 3- roller set prevents threads from slipping
through and keeps the thread tension constant in the dry split section when
changing beams.




Reproducible size cooking:-

The SIZEMIX cooker, equipped with a high powered agitator ensures homogeneous
liquor. The cooker is programmed via the size recipe at the machine PC. In this way,
cooking temperature, water quantity and cooking time are preset and automatically
maintained. Attendance takes place optionally from the PC or directly at the cooker.


Proposed numbers of ends/inch in size box:-
The table describes the numbers of ends/inch of ring spun an open end yarn in size
box according to count.



Page 53 of 97



Maximum ends/inch in Size box
Yarn count Ring Spun Open End
10 35 31
20 50 45
25 56 50
30 62 56
35 66 60
40 71 64
50 80 72

Viscosity of size paste:-
Viscosity of size pate should not deviate from required value. Less viscose paste
makes adhesion of size material well but coating on the surface of the yarn is not
done properly. While paste with higher viscosity coats the yarn very well but
adhesion of paste into the core of yarn in terms of increasing its strength is not done
properly.
Size box temperature control:-
The degree of size penetration and coating depends not only on the nature of yarn &
the size solution but also upon the viscosity which in turn largely depends on the
temperature. It should be about 200F-206F. Fluctuation should be 3 F. The
temperature gauge should be installed on the size box. Perforated copper pipe lining
is laid in the bottom of size box to supply the steam for keeping the paste warm up
to the above mentioned temperature. Low temperature will make gelling of paste
which will not penetrate through the yarn and higher temperature create thinning of
the size paste which is also unsuitable to be used as sticky paste. So to maintain the
temperature of above value is very important. If the size paste is prepared with rich
PVA or CMC then temperature of 75C to 80C is sufficient.
Moisture content in the yarn:-
The moisture content in the sized yarn should not go below 6%. Otherwise the
coating of size film will not allow absorbing moisture in the loom shed which is
necessary for good working. For this moisture monitor is being supplied with the
machine. The temperature of the drying cylinders should be kept 140-150 to
maintain 6-7% moisture in the yarn.

Page 54 of 97



Weaving

Weaving is the interlacing of warp filling yarns perpendicular to each other at
90degree. These are practically an endless number of ways of interlacing warp and
filling yarn.
The waving machines are named after their filling insertion system. Schematics of
the filling insertion systems that are used in the market are:
I. Shuttle
II. Projectile
III. Rigid rapier
IV. Flexible rapier
V. Air jet
VI. Water jet
Based on the filling insertion system, the weaving machine can be classified as
shuttle and shuttle less weaving machines. Shuttle looms have been used for
centuries to make woven fabrics.

Air Jet Looms or Air Jet Weft Insertion System
This system is most improved form of weft insertion. In this system, the mechanism
and machine parts have been totally eliminated used to drive the weft insertion
source. This facilitate to increase the insertion rate up to 2500 r.p.m this type of
machine is firstly commercialized by Swedish engineer Max Paabo in 1951. Weft
thread is propelled using compressed air. It is simple operation with reduced
mechanical parts and hence the maintenance cost is very low.







Page 55 of 97








The working principles of air jet weaving machines are based on carrying the yarn
by the friction of the air jet. During the yarns forward movement by the air in the
sheds, the velocity of the weft yarn decreases because of the decreasing pressure and
the disturbance on the air flow direction. The air jet must provide a constant speed to
the weft yarn along the weaving wideness. However, weft yarn of a certain mass is
carried by a single jet at a limited distance. That is why the relay nozzles are installed
at certain distances, in order to prevent a decrease in yarn velocity. The relay nozzle
system and the general characteristics of the weft yarn speed in the shed. These are
implemented on a movable hollow-needle or slay system. The basic function of the
main jet is to load the weft yarn into the shed, and then to carry it to the first relay
nozzle at a certain speed. The weft yarn suddenly reaches high velocity by means of
the main jet. To preserve weaving defects and a synchronous beat-up movement, the
weft yarn position and the instant velocity of the weft yarn must be fully controlled
during the weaving process.





Page 56 of 97



Advantages of Air-Jet Weaving Machine
High productivity
High filling insertion system
Reduced hazard because of few moving parts
Low noise and vibration
Low spare parts requirements
To increase the production of loom by increasing the speed and by increasing
the width of loom
Machines are versatile and roust to produces light to heavy value added
fabric
Almost all loom motions are being controlled electronically
These looms can be operated up to 40 looms per operated
Fully auto matic lubrication system
Produce 100% export quality goods

LOOM MOTIONS
There are three types of loom motions which are given below-

Primary Loom Motions
a. Shedding
b. Picking
c. Beating
d. Take-up motion
e. Let-off motion

Secondary Motion
a) Warp stop motion
b) Weft stop motion
c) Warp protector motion
d) Weft replenishing motion

Auxiliary Motion
a) Terry motion
b) Selvedge motion
Page 57 of 97



c) Weft petering motion
d) Temples
e) Brake





After passing through different processes such as Spinning, Warping, Dyeing and
Sizing this is a stage where Raw Fabric is processed and then finally it goes to
Finishing Department.
Now this stage is processed through Zax a loom set which is basically a model of
Machines. These Machines works with a speed of 700 to 750 Rotations per Minute
(RPM). There are 203 Machines out of which 159 are Zax Machines and 44 (209i)
Machines. There are 13 meters per Roll as per customers requirements and after
making a Raw Fabric, it generally goes for detecting the defects. Generally, yarn is
produced from cotton, filaments, Lycra, Poly-lycra.
Warp Beamers first installed to the Air jet loom set, which is Technology from Japan
(Tsudakoma) and then after a weft is entered into nozzles through air pressure.
Warp is seen vertically on these machines and weft is horizontal to it. Weft enters
through sensors and passes the full lobby of warp and the dents of warp are set
before starting the machine. Dents are defined as gap between two ends. The larger
the dents the lesser will be the gap between two ends.
Generally, one machine produces 500 meters of Raw Fabric daily depends on picks.
In addition, to produce in such a hassle environment you need to have 75 to 80 % of
Page 58 of 97



humidity required in every textile mills and due to this 10% contraction of fabric
takes place in weaving department.
There is inflow of cool atmospheric air from above floor and outflow of air
ventilation is given at underground level. There is air blower attached on the above
of such machines to remove unwanted fibers on machines, which is continuously
rotating for cleaning purpose. After one beam is over there is a need for knotting to
have a continuous production for Raw Fabric and for that, this department is having
a Knotting machine to join the next beam. There are indicators on each machine for
the Terminologies such as
T- Total Breakages
W- Warp Damages
F- Weft Breakages
L- Leno and other Breakages.

This indicators help operators in make out damages that occurs due to Dyeing and
Sizing and sometimes due to weft also. Weft is procured from outside suppliers, so if
there are more damages or breakages of weft then suppliers are to be aware and they
will have to give more focus on these breakages. Due to hassle, working
environment workers are given Earplugs and Masks due to humidity level. There
are 100 workers in a shift and total there are 3 shifts and approximately 300 workers
work in this department. Recycles wastewater and converts denim waste to denim
paper, in keeping with their eco-friendly production process.
MAJOR DEFECTS:
Band pick
Double end
Starting mark
Weft cut

The defect acceptance percentage at Arvind is 2.4 and efficiency is 85-87%, efficiency
being measured in terms of number of picks to be inserted vis--vis actual number of
picks inserted.
The object of weaving to produce the fabric by the interlacement of warp & weft. The
other object is to produce defect free fabric by using the suitable mechanisms.


Page 59 of 97



Classification of Weaving Machines:
Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism.
The classification is as follows:
1. SHUTTLE LOOM
2. SHUTTLE-LESS
- Rapier
- Projectile
- Air-Jet
- Water-Jet

AIR-JET WEAVING:
Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the
warp shed with compressed air. Air-jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems
and a profiled reed. Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder
and each pick is measured for the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon
release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via
tandem and main nozzles, which provide the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles
provide the high air velocity across the weave shed. Profiled reed provides guidance
for the air and separates the filling yarn from the warp yarn.












Page 60 of 97



Process Flow Chart


LOOMING IN
It is process of drawing of warp yarn through the drop pins, heald frames, and reed
which is then mounted on the loom for weaving.
KNOTTING IN
If the same weft & warp count, same weave are to be employed then the yarn from
the new warp beam is tied to the previous one (end-end knotting). A knotting m/c is
used for this purpose.

Page 61 of 97



UNIT SPECIFICATIONS:
No. of Looms: 203 Air jet Looms: 155 Air jet looms of model ZAX, 48
looms of type 209i.
Average production capacity-2.7lakh meter/day.
Average monthly production -80 lakh meter/day(product wise vary) .
100% Denim oriented .
Efficiency: 88% .

Reasons for low efficiency:
a) 4-5% efficiency loss due to electrical problems
b) 1-2% efficiency loss due to material stock-out
c) Absenteeism of workers
d) Maximum Operating Speed: 750 picks/min
e) Operating speed: 663 picks/min
f) Selvedge Types: Loose, Reverse, Mat Selvedge

Defects and Faults commonly found after weaving:
- Floats
- Short pick
- Defective shedding
- False Stop
- Breakage
- Missing Ends
- Knots, Pulls
- Fluffs
- Size Residue
- Start Marks





Page 62 of 97



Different lights of signals and there meanings:
Red: warp stop.
Red: waste selvedge stop.
Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, right hand.
Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, left hand
Green: weft stop by WF1 (color1)
Green: weft stop by WF2 (color2)
White (Flashing): cloth beam full.
White (Flashing): cloth beam to be doffed
White: stop switch pressed.
White Flashing: Emergency stop button pressed.
Green-TAPO: processing interrupted by an external access
Green-TAPO: Inoperable over.


Role of various categories of workers

1. Responsibility of Weaver:-
Attend warp breaks.
To take details from previous shift weaver.
To take proper quality round from front and back side of loom.
To doff cloth roller.
Not to take selvedge yarn and other beam yarn into body of other yarn.
To clean area of drop pins, beam, and surrounding of loom.
To throw warp and weft waste into waste box only.
Knot tail end of weft and creeling of package.
Selector and accumulator cleaning.

2. Responsibility of Knotter:-
To take knotting machine and accessories properly.
After every knotting clear knotting machine and accessories used.
At time of knotting, to clean loom as per preventive maintenance.
To pass knot properly and pick dents, double ends, miss ends, wrong
drawing and denting should be checked and corrected.
If necessary, join extra weft clamp and straightening of every cross end.
If necessary, change weft yarn trolley.

Page 63 of 97



3. Responsibility of Fitter:-
In shift- To do proper cam changes, break down and running
maintenance.
Quality-
a) To attain fabric defects.
b) To help loom technician.
c) To attain weft break, warp and Lena break.

4. Responsibility of Reliever:-
To maintain proper weft trolley
To clean area of loom.
To check all moving parts.
Creeling of weft.
Knotting of tail ends.

5.Responsibility of Transporter:-
As per instruction of sift in charge, to bring appropriate drawn beam from
drawing in department and transport empty beam into dyeing
department.
Make appropriate marking on cloth roller and transport it into finishing
department.
To keep spare pallet for charging.
To fill transporter log book and take signature of finishing and weaving in
charge.
At time of sift change, take charge from previous shift and a end of shift,
give to next.
To keep beam pallet in proper condition.

6. Responsibility of Drawer:-
To make set and do drawing.
To make extra and cross end proper.
To do work according to shift .

7. Responsibility of Cleaner:-
To clean floor and keep good housekeeping.
After cleaning, to keep all waste in bag and keep it in waste area.
To keep beam waste into bag and take weight of separate beam waste and
keep in waste area.
Page 64 of 97



To do work as per instruction of shift in charge

MAN POWER DIVISION IN WEAVING

10 Looms / weaver
Around 40 looms /supervisor
1 knotter / 80 looms
2 dressers /80 looms
4 helper / 80 looms
1 maintenance /shift 2 shift in charge

Key Points :-
206 machines (154ZAX)
100% denim products
Running 24 hours 364 days continuously
1 day in a month to clean the waste
3 shifts
Worker strength= 415
251 per shift on machines
15 staff members (1 maintenance in charge, 1 quality in charge, 1 head of
the department)

Technical Details Of The fabric -
Twill- 3 by 1
5.3s count to 20 s
Width of the fabric-64.5,68.5,71.5
Maximum width possible is 119 mtrs.
Picks per inch 30ppi-68ppi
Ends per inch : 52epi-104epi

Machine specification
1. ZAX- 750 rpm
2. Tsudakoma-650rpm
Widths are same

Page 65 of 97



Diameter Range. 1100mm. 980mm
Efficiency. 90%. 90%

Details :-

500m length per machine depends on picks.
Picks more = Production less

Machine Details :-
2 types of Stop Motion - Warp Stop Motion
Weft Stop Motion - 2 stops. H1(edge),H2(excess)
Leno motion to balance the structure at the ends.

No of ends= no of heald shafts
Fabric twill= 3x1 and selvedge= 1x3 so that when it is passed through stenters, it is
not damaged.

Preventive measures
1. Ear plugs
2. Mask
3. Safety shoes
4. Safety training
5. Fire extinguisher

Waste percentage: 2.4-2.5
If stoppage more rpm less quality less.
750 rpm without stoppage and is calculated per 24 hours.
36 stoppage in 24 hours are acceptable.
Mending time will affect the quality of fabric.
1 beam of fabric requires 60 hours with minor stoppage.
1 or 2 hours stop of machine after every beam.

Page 66 of 97



Finishing and Processing

Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an
important role in fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric
shrinkage.
The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.

The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.
1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance,
supple handle, softness and good drape.
2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion
strengths, dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.

3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat
insulation, moisture absorption and air permeability.

4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability,
mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.


Classification of Finishes:-
Considering the existence of a large number and a great variety of the finishes for
the cellulosic fibres, it is understandable that a completely satisfactory classification
is not possible to make. The finishes are often sub-divided as physical and chemical,
permanent and temporary, deposition and reactive etc. Sometimes the finishes are
classified according to the effects obtained like appearance, wearing qualities,
weighting etc. To complicate the matter further, the final folding and packing of the
materials is sometimes included in the list. However the following description,
though not perfect, is fairly rational and does justice to the topic.
Physical /Mechanical Finishes:-
(a) TEMPORARY / NON PERMANENT
(i) Calendering : Swizzing, Friction, Beetling, Chasing, Schreiner, Embossing
and Felting
(ii) Singeing

(b) DURABLE
(i) Raising, Sueding, (Emerising or Peach Finish)
(ii) Sanforizing

Chemical Finishes:-

(a) TEMPORARY / NON PERMANENT
Page 67 of 97



(i) For Handle and Appearance: Softening, Stiffening, Weighting, Lustering
(other than Mercerising)
(ii) Special Effects: Water-Repellency, Flame-Retardancy, Mildew Proofing


(b) PERMANENT
(i) Crease Recovery, Softening
(ii) Water-Repellency, Flame-Retardancy, Mildew-Proofing


1. SINGEING UNIT

Technically, singeing refers to the burning-off of loose fibres not firmly bound into
the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pre-treatment. If
not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and results in
pilling.
Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.
The denim fabric is then passed through a singing unit. Here the fabric is singed two
times on the face side at a temperature of 800 to 990 degrees.


Process Flow-



Cradle Unit
J Scray Unit
Brushing Unit
Singeing Unit
Nip Unit
Page 68 of 97




Unit Specification-

a. Capacity: 40-50 m/min
b. Production: 41000-45000 m/ day
15000-17000 m/shift
c. CNG Gas Burner - 90
d. Flame Interaction
e. 3 operator per machine

Objectives & Advantages of Singeing:

Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface which
allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen.
Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics.
The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced in
case of singed fabrics.
Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity and
detail.
The risk of skitter dyeing with singed articles dyed in dark shades is
considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing which
could cause diffused reflection of light.


Singeing Process

To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibers first the
fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fiber ends.
Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas
flames. The fiber ends burn off.
The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fiber ends are destroyed.
As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water bath or desizing
bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.
Precaution during Singeing:
Some of the precautions to be taken in considerations during singeing:-
The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tends to scorch more readily
than dry.
Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is finished.
Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in warp
direction.
The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt, which may release acid on
heating and tender the fabric.
Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics.
Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics.
Page 69 of 97



The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account when this process
is applied, as heat-sensitive fibers melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the
fabric. These balls interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat
sensitive fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.

Methods of Singeing:

1. Plate Singeing Machine -
Plate singeing essentially consist of two covered copper plates thick and slightly
barrelled which way be set in the fire clay and heated to bright redness by a furnace
below or by a suitable heating arrangement.
The cloth in open with passes and it contact with the hot plates at a speed varying
between 135 to 225 meter/minute.
The protruding fibers are burnt during the passage of the cloth through the machine.
However, the fiber ends present in the interstices of warp and weft are not signed.
Since they are not made assessable to the action of intense heat. Secondly since there
is actual contact between the cloth and a hard and hot surface of the metal a certain
amount of luster is produced in the cloth due to friction.
The main objective to plate singeing is that it may not be possible to maintain the
plates at a uniform temperature and this cause unnerve singeing.

2. Roller Singeing Machine -
Some of the defects of plate singeing machine are over come in roller singeing
machine which way be considered as a modification of the formers.
In this machine, the singeing surface is a rotating cylinder instead of stationary
curved plate. It may be made of either copper or cast-iron and provided with the
internal fairing system. A fresh not surface of the cylinder is presented in to the
coming fabric by the slow rotating of the cylinder. In this case, the surface
temperature of the cylinder is more uniform at all places. Than in the case of hot
plates, the reaction of the cylinder is in the opposite direction to the fabric movement
which rises the naps-ensuring efficient singeing. As in plate singeing the fabric end
in the interstices are not removed from the fabric and luster is imported to the fabric
to some extent due to the contact with the hard and not-metal surface in roller
singeing.

3. Gas Singeing Machine -
Gas Singeing is intended for single and double face singeing of fabric with passes
through the guide roller. Then in brushing zone which rotate in the sense opposite to
fabric to be singed. The brushes are placed in a special chamber from which dust and
fluff removed from the fabric are exhausted by a fan. Then the fabric passes over gas
burner with ceramics nozzles where singeing is covered out. Coming out of the gas
singeing machine a box containing water. This bath may also contain desizing agent.
In this way after singeing we can desize and batched the fabric.

2. MERCERIZING UNIT

Page 70 of 97



Mercerization is a finishing treatment of cotton with a strong caustic alkaline
solution in order to improve the luster, hard and other properties was names after its
discoverer, John Mercer, and has been in use for some time. It has been seeing an
increase in application recently.

During mercerization, singeing or desized material is used. The mercerization unit
has a total of 7 rollers which move at a speed of 42 rpm. The tank has a capacity of 3
tonnes. Caustic soda is used during this process and full pressure is applied to
remove traces of extra caustic soda. This process has a brusher unit as well and
reisky padders.



Process Flow


Effect of Mercerization -
Improve Luster.
Increase ability to absorb dye.
Improve reaction with a verity of chemicals.
Improve stability of form.
Inlet J Scray Unit
Brushing
Unit
Caustic
Impregnator
Stabilizer
Unit
Washing
Unit
Acid Unit
Drying
Zone
Outlet J
Scray Unit
Page 71 of 97



Improve strength/elongation.
Improve smoothness.
It has been shown that the increase in the luster occurs because of an effect.
The cotton fiber do convoluted.
The cross-sectional shape changes.

Factors of Mercerizing -
In mercerizing followings are important:
Twaddle
Temperature
Tension
Time

(1) Twaddle (Concentration of NaOH):
If the concentration of NaOH is increased above 56oTw improvement in luster will
be attained but if it is decrease below 48o Tw. The quality of luster will begin to be
adversely affected.

(2)Temperature:
High degree of luster is attained at temperature 18-20oC. As the temperature is
increased the quality of luster is adversely affected but on lowering the temperature
no improvement in the luster is obtained.

(3) Tension:
For acquiring better luster the material must be stretch to its original dimension
(both in warp and weft direction during mercerization). If the material is allowed to
shrink during mercerizing then quality of luster will be impaired on the other hand
if the material is stretched more no improvement in luster is achieved.

(4) Time:
The optimum time for mercerizing is 30-60 seconds by increasing the duration of
time no applicable improvement in the quality of mercerization can be achieved but
if the time limit is less than 30 seconds in the quality of mercerization will be
improved.

3. STENTERING UNIT

Stenter is a finishing machine which dries up the cloth and removes the dimensional
instability that occurs during the processing. The final finishing of fabric is always
done on a Stenter. The Stenters are normally provided with a padder, a bow and a
weft straightener device. The cloth to be finished passes through the padder, where
finishing chemicals are added and goes through bow and weft correction device
before entering the drying chamber. It can be either pad or dip stenter. The pair
chains hold the cloth horizontally. The process is pad-dry and drying is achieved by
blowing hot air in the stenter chamber. The stenter is the most important machine in
the finishing for stretching or stentering fabrics.
Page 72 of 97



The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre
determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing
chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to
stretch the fabric width-wise and to recover the uniform width.
Sometimes wetting agent for example a mixture of surface active compound are
used as chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.

(Stenter Machine)

Process Flow -



Function of Stenter Machine:-
Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and blended
fabric.
Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
Inlet J
Scray
Unit
Brushing
Chemic
al
Padder
Foam
Coating
Unit
Clipping
Unit
Chamber
CNG
Blower
Heat
Setting
Coiler
Drum
Outlet
J
Scray
Unit
Batching
Unit
Page 73 of 97



Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Spirality controlled by the stenter.
GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.

Components of Stenter Machine:-
Padders
Weft straightener
Burners - 10
Heat recovery
Attraction rollers
Circulating fans - 10, 8
Exhaust fans - 2
Winder - 2
Clips
Pins
I.R
Cooling drums 2

Stentering Unit Components:-
Inlet J Unit
Brushing Unit - In the integrated finishing range, the grey denim fabric is first
passed through a brushing and suction unit, where loose lint, fluff are removed from
the fabric surface. The protruding fibers adhere on the fabric surface are also raised
to burned in the next process.
Chemical Padder - The denim fabric is then padded to apply finish to the fabric.
Here the fabric passes into a full immersion pad and finish is added at high wet pick
up. The finish is necessary to properly lubricate fabric for the subsequent skewing
operation.
The chemical used is caustic soda.
Foam Coating Unit- It depends on the style of the fabric. Foam coating unit is to
coat colour on either side of denim. Coating can be done on both sides: Bottom
Applicator, Top Applicator. Both have different operators.
Mahlo (Weft Pulling) - When the fabric is passed through Mahlo, the fabric is
gripped by the clips to elongate the fabric. These clips are joined to endless chains
which go to 9 chambers.
Chamber- There are 9 chambers provided in the machine for drying. Each chamber
has blowers and filters to separate dust from air.
Outlet J Unit
Batching Unit

Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:-
Page 74 of 97



The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the
padders where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected.
The fabric is entered into the weft straightener. The function is to set the bow and
also weave of the fabric is gripped by the clips and pins are also provided but the
pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching
of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain.
There are 9 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and
filters are provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the
base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers.
Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of
the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.
Temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
PC 210 c
Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170 C and after print 130-140 C.


4. FOAM FINISHER
The foam finishing technology (FFT) process is a novel application system for
treating porous substrates with foamed chemicals at very low wet pick-ups. It
involves the use of a rapidly-breaking low-density foam or froth as the delivery
medium for finishing chemicals, precise metering and flow control for delivery of
foam to the substrate, pressure-driven impregnation of the foam into the substrate,
and an applicator system designed to allow uniform high-speed application and
collapse of the foam in a single step.

Machine Specifications -
ARRANGEMENT FOAM UNIT
NIP ROLL
SKEW ROLL
SANFORIZER
Page 75 of 97



PALMER
OUTLET
MACHINE MAKER MONFORT
OBJECTIVE WIDTHWISE AND LENGHTWISE
SHRINKAGE,SKEW
MACHINE SPEED 25M/MIN(AVG)
CAPACITY PER DAY 30,000MTR(DAY)
NO.OF WORKMEN PER SHIFT 3
INPUT MATERIAL GREIGE FABRIC
OUTPUT MATERIAL FINISHED MATERIAL

a. Foam Unit - Foaming Agent AGROSOFT is used and is uniformly applied with
the help of a knife.
b. Nip Roll
c. Skew Roll
It is used to correct the distortions in the fabric due to different processes. Skew is
done by providing tension through rollers.
d. Sanforizer - A machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done
to control the shrinkage of the fabric and gives dimensional stability by applying
mechanic forces and water vapour.
e. Palmer - It is used for ironing and pressing the fabric as it is rolled out of the
machine.
f. Outlet The fabric comes out in a bundle form and is collected in a trolley.
(Output of Foam Finishing Machine)
Page 76 of 97



Advantage of FFT:-
1. Get low pick up even down to 5% for various applications, quicker water drying
with energy saving of more than 50%.
2. Chemicals can be saved in many circumstances in textile finishing treatments.
Stenter speed can be increased for drying or stenter, predrying can be eliminated.
3. Minimized down time compared to padding process.
4. Shorten the length of equipment, plant and reduce the investment.
5. Reduce environmental pollution and water waste.
6. Can be carried on single or double-side of fabric (can be imposed on both sides
with different agents).

5. WET FINISHING
Chemical finishes: These are also known as wet finishes. In these, chemical treatment
is given to fabric, either to change its appearance or basic properties.
These finishes are usually durable and permanent or wet finishes.
Examples are: fireproof, crease resistance, etc.
Wet process is usually done on the manufactured assembly of interlacing fibers,
filaments, and/or yarns having substantial surface (planar) area in relation to its
thickness, and adequate mechanical strength to give it a cohesive structure. In other
words, wet process is done on manufactured fabric. The processes of this stream is
involved or carried out in aqueous stage and thus it is called wet process which
usually covers pretreatment, dyeing, printing and finishing.
All of these stages are required aqueous medium which is created by water. A
massive amount of water is required in these processes per day. It is estimated that,
on an average, almost 100 liter of water is used to process only 1 kg of textile goods.

Page 77 of 97



Water can be of various quality and attributes. Not all water can be used in the
textile process, it must have some certain properties, quality, color & attributes for
being used in textile processes. That is why water is a prime concerned in wet
processing engineering.

(Skew Unit of Wet Finishing Machine)
Process Flow


a. Infeed - The fabric is feeded through J Scray structure.
b. Brushing - Brushes are used to remove extra waste fiber on fabric surface
known as pumb.
c. Padding (Chemical) - Chemicals are used and the fabric is dipped in it as it
passes through padder tank.
Page 78 of 97



d. Padder Nip - It takes out all the extra chemical and water. Only 15% is left as
moisture within the fabric. So nip rollers are used to squeeze the water.
e. Mahlo Unit (Skew) - It has 4 rollers and adjusting instrument from which the
amount of tension that should be provided is adjusted. It is used to rectify the
distortion in the fabric. Moisture Content-11.7%.
f. Drying Zone - 10 Cylinders with hot steam passing is used to dry the fabric
and prepared for robber unit with 10 Dragon rolls.
g. Robber Unit - Temp: STD+-5 degree Celsius. It is same as Sanforizer in which
rubber belt is used and fabric is passed through roller and rubber belt.
h. Palmer Unit - It is used to iron or press the fabric.
During wet-finishing, any fugitive dye can be dealt with, threads will slide to areas
of least resistance so that weave structures such as waffle weave and lace weave will
develop to their full potential, woollens can be fulled, and small inconsistencies in
the cloth due to reed marks or irregular beating will be reduced or eliminated
altogether.











Page 79 of 97



Inspection and Testing
Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers for over
80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that starts when the
customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the samples accordingly, it is
checked for quality assurance measures and compliances with customer needs. At
later stages the fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done.
Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance




Quality
Assurance
Testing
Physical Testing
Chemical Testing
Shade testing
Process Control
shipment clearance
certification and accreditation
Inspection
in process
final
Page 80 of 97



Inspection:
Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the fabric
depends on the customer preferences.

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects in fabrics.
The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees.
Speed of fabric on inspection m/c : 25m/min
Light of 100 Lux
Inclination : 57
Cost of inspection rs0.65/mtr

There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the defects.
The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement defects are
allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4-point allowable
are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.
4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:

Size of defect Penalty Points
3 or less 1 Point
3 to 6 2 Points
6 to 9 3 Points
More than 9 4 Points
Holes or Openings(Largest
Dimension)

1 or less 2 Points
More than 1 4 Points
No penalty points are recorded for minor defects. Major Defects are classified as
follows:- Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous
yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.- Major knitted fabric defects
are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub,hole, press off.- Major
dye or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop, color smear or
shading.
Page 81 of 97



Points per 100 square yards = Total points scored in the roll x 3600
Fabric width in inches x Total yards inspected
Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as
SECONDS
At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production plan
for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The finishing
department gives the material transfer note to the inspection department where the
material is checked for the following defects:
Spinning related Defects:
Warp Slub
Weft Slub
Thick end
Coarse/fine weft
Weft bar
Weaving preparatory related defects
Knot
Slack end
Ball formation
Size patches
Weaving related defects
Starting mark
Tight end
Weft float
Knot
Moir
Repaired warp
Double end
Bowing and Skewing
Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the bowing and
s skewing at every 10 meters.
Page 82 of 97



The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows:
Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to
the selvedge of the fabric.
A bow may have different forms:
Single Bow%= Dip of the Bow (Maximum deviation from perpendicular line) X 100
Width of the fabricDouble

Bow%= Dip of the Bow (Maximum deviation from perpendicular line) X 100
Width of the fabricSkew:
Skew is a straight line deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to the
selvedgeof the fabric.

Skew%= Dip of the Skew (Maximum deviation from perpendicular line) X 100
Width of the fabric

If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.


Page 83 of 97



Testing

Physical Testing:
The samples are tested for/by:
1. Yarn evenness: USTER TESTER 5
2. Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system: yarn count and strength
3. Single yarn tester
4. Instron 4465: Tensile Test for fabric
5. Elemendorf Tearing Strength: tearing strength check by application of
9000g force
6. Chatillon Stiffness Tester- resistance to bending
7. Paramount humidity checker- for humidity control
8. Stretch/elongation test- weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated swatch
sample for half an hr
9. Dimensional Stability and skew movement test
10. Shrinkage test- measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning
11. Ozone test chamber by USA inc.
12. Snarl indicator
13. Twist tester- Statex (14.4 tpi)


Page 84 of 97



Shade testing:
The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.
HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to
process, display, analyze and report color measurement results.
Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color
difference data in all widely used color scales, for various lighting and
observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast go/no-go decisions.
Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.
Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots
and spectral curves.
All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database
programs.
The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots
deviations from average and perfect sample for each roll.
It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from
normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and
minimize shade variation.
It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So that
the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various
shades.
Page 85 of 97















Page 86 of 97



Chemical testing :-
Tests requested by preferred customers:
LEVIs Test method
PH ISO-3071
Crocking AATCC-8
SPOT TEST SI 1005
Water Repellancy ISO 105-E01
Acid ISO 105-E02
Alkali ISO 105-E04

VF corporation Test method
PH AATCC-81
Crocking AATCC-8
Washing AATCC-81

POLO method
PH ISO-3071
Crocking ISO 105*12
SPOT TEST SI 1005
Water Repellancy ISO 105-E01
Acid ISO 105-E02
Alkali ISO 105-E04
Washing C06-AIM

Chemical Tests Conducted in the lab:
1. Raw Material checking like dyeing/finishing auxhillaries
a) Basic chemical.
b) Percentage of purity of Hydros, Caustic acid, peroxides etc
Page 87 of 97



c) Purity performance of dyes like indigo, vat sulphur
d) Auhilaries like wetting agents, sizing, finishing etc

2. Stock Weight of indigo (gpl)- Brandsbender moisture tester (105 degree c.
for 4 hrs)

3. Weighing balance Mettler Toledo

4. Crockmeter AATCC

5. Formldehyde content in dye/stock bath

6. Thermo orion pH meter

7. Launder-O-meter

8. ATLAS crockmeter

9. Genesys 10 spectrophotometer

10. Muffle furnace

11. Cintex incubator

12. EEC beaker dyeing machine

13. USA ozone test chamber

14. Flamability tester- coming next y
Page 88 of 97



Packaging Department

Details on the packages :
1. Shipment no.
2. Date
3. Sort no
4. F.M.C
5. Code no
6. Meters
7. Flags/points
8. Opt no.
Rolls of approx. 135m each sealed by polythene
Spec. of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used















Page 89 of 97



DNTG Department


The Development and New Technology Group department is a critical unit for the innovation and
creativity that Arvind mills projects. The department has been constituted in such a manner that it has
2 parts-
The Design Team
The Technical Team
Design Team:
The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.
It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along with the textile
experts and textile designers.
The team works together to create a completely different denim design. Though it seems like
innovation in design in denims has limited scope, this group of professionals use their
creativity and constant thinking skills to come up with unprecedented designs.
These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for top fashion experts to
see and review, and hence maintain the exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.
Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara, Abercrombie and Fitch,
Mango, Gap and many others, select these designs and order them to be produced in mass.
The designs can be created by changing one of the following characteristics of the fabric :

1. Weave of the fabric:
(Denim is usually 3 x 1 twill)- variations are made in twill weave or by changing the nature of the
weave all together. Like 2X1 or other variations
2. The dyeing procedures output:
(usually done with indigo and sulphur dyes) The dying can give colour effects to the fabric.
Different compositions of dyes are used and innovations and creativity in the use of colors, produces
more number of designs. Sometimes the weft and the warp are of different dyes, creating an
iridescent effect. Though traditionally blue or black, many other colours of denims are created
Page 90 of 97



3. Fiber Used:
Authentic denim uses cotton fiber, but for design variations cotton blends are used. Light weight
yarns like polyester are used to manufacture denim used in garments like jeggings and lighter weight
denim requirements. Most popular addition to denim fabric is Lycra for streatchability as that is a
prominent feature of jeans. Also the yarn count and yarn density dictate the nature of fabric formed.
Though yarn of higher count is used, as denim is thick fabric.
4. Finishes Applied:
Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of finish applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of
finishes that can be applied to any fabric and same goes for denim. Usually mercerization is a process
not done for denims, as it does not require very soft and smooth fibers, but inclusion of finished like
mercerization or resin finish, can completely change the look and feel of the fabric. Other aesthetic
finishes, like partial napping or emerization, anti-crease finish, permanent creases by resin finish can
be given.

The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new products are added to it
every day:
1. Kato (Japanese denim line):

Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics mostly made on the shuttle
loom and with selvedge. For s/s 2011, we have work wear cast in nappy selvedge denim, indigo with
indigo-dyed Fill-and-Glen checks denim to name a few. His collection serves as early directions for
all brands.

2. ADL (American Denim Lab):
The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2011collection has special attractions in the
form of colour denims, indigos with colour fills and summer lights in excel along with the authentic
core line

3. Euroline (European denim line):
The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs in Europe. The s/s 2011 collection has an introduction
of four new indigo shades omega, greycast indigo, oil authentic blue cast indigo, tribegreen cast
indigo and clanpetrol blue indigo, all in fine subtle slubs in compact construction.
Page 91 of 97




4. Metro (Indian denim line):
The metro line is designed by Arvinds in-house design team specifically for Indian brands. The
collection has the flavour of a true Indian denim. For the coming season, we have a set of fine coated
products and a big set of power stretches for jeggings in indigo and black. We have also recently
launched a collection in Excel called Excelush in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. Excelush is a
super soft, lustrous and bouncy denim fabric. It is made from a highly refined eco-friendly and
sophisticated process after scientific research and development conducted at Birla Research Institute.

5. New washes, treatments:
We wash our collections in laundries around the world, including LA, Italy, Turkey, Korea, Japan
and in our own lab in Ahmedabad. Some of the new washes we are doing presently have crispy
raw touch, naturally worn/used look, good localised abrasion, extreme contrast of high and
low where some areas still show the depth of colour even after heavy washing, a comeback of acid
wash look, fully wash out look with dirty areas.

6. New colours:
In the indigo family, one can expect green cast indigo, grey cast indigo, greasy oil cast indigo, petrol
blue cast indigo, hydron blue, and baby blue. In the pure colour family, one can expect all black, stay
black, fade black, gunmetal grey, smoky grey, burgundy, diner green, and coral blue.


Technical Team:

The technical team of the development and new technology team aims at developing the
fabric as per customer requirements.
They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together and collaborate with
each of the processing units to get the desired output of the fabric.
Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and processes to be followed
to create the fabric exactly matching customer requirements.
Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department, they are delegated to
the individual units for mass production.
The DNTG DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a databse of more than 8000 fabrics, that
have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to
differentiation based on any of the factors mentioned above.
Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in bulk, The data then
goes to PPC department, that is production Planning and Control and the mass production of
fabrics start.

Page 92 of 97




Environmental Policy

Arvind Mills commits itself to continually improve our environmental management.
It strives to go beyond the requirements of the applicable environmental laws &
other regulations through:
Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water.
Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste &
air emissions.
Maximizing the recycling of inevitable wastes.
Encouraging suppliers & buyers to become environmentally responsible.
Maintaining a safe working environment.
Increasing the green cover.
Training employees on environmental issues.

Water Treatment at Arvind Mill:
Arvind Limited at the main site at Naroda also possess chemical, biological
treatment facilities to treat 10000 m3/day of effluents to meet the pollution control
board norms.
Effluents due to washing:
The effluents are generated from the washing carried out in between successive
processes.
In the dye house, after dyeing activity, fixation of dye is one of the most
important stages.
Usually, 70-80% of fixation is practicable and the rest i.e. 20% of the dye used
comes out in the effluent generated due to washing.
Effluent generated from the dye house has high concentration of pollutant as
compared to other processes in the textile processing unit.
It also contains high amount of inorganic salts like sodium sulphate or
sodium chloride which is used for dye fixing and acts as an electrolyte.

Page 93 of 97



Effluents due to Mercerization
Mercerization imparts shining characteristic to the fabric.
Washing after mercerization generates typical effluent containing caustic
solution and other impurities.
Bleaching is done by peroxide method.
Treatment:
The treatment processes at the water treatment plant at Arvind is divided into three
parts:
i) Main treatment facility,
ii) Pre-treatment (prior to reverse osmosis)
iii) Reverse osmosis.

Main treatment facility:
Effluent in the form of generated from the sizing & de-sizing, bleaching & sections
are subjected to processes, both physical and chemical
Effluent is collected in an equalization tank.
After pH adjustment there is addition of poly electrolytes
Then the effluent is sent to the clarifier for sedimentation.
Effluent from the dying unit is collected separately in an equalization tank where:
PH is adjusted and a chemical is added in acidic medium (pH 5.5) to
decolorize the effluent. The unit uses a chemical Micro Plus which is claimed
to act as a color removal agent.
This effluent is then mixed with the entire effluent from the mercerized,
sizing & humidification sections.
These effluents are then fed into biological system comprising of
degradation of organic components by microorganisms
Then it is sent to sedimentation in clarifier and to the aeration unit.
In the aeration unit it is kept for a time of approximately 16 hours DO level is
maintained at 2.5 to 3.0.


Page 94 of 97



Pre-treatment facility:
Pretreatment or primary treatment facilities are adopted before the effluent is
subjected to reverse osmosis. This stage comprises of two unit operations in
succession turbo circulator followed by pressure sand filter. Turbo circulator is
basically a flash mixer.
After main treatment facility, poly aluminum chloride, poly electrolyte are added
in the effluent and are passed to turbo-circulator and then to the sand filter before
being subjected to reverse osmosis. The unit has intermediate storage tank of
capacity 2400 cubic meter for storage of the treated effluent.

Reverse Osmosis:
After pre-treatment the effluent is sent to the reverse osmosis plant. Reverse osmosis
is just the reverse process of osmosis. Osmosis as we know, is a natural process and
is the tendency of two liquids of different concentrations separated by a semi
permeable membrane, to move from low to high concentrations for chemical
potential equilibrium. But in reverse osmosis, when high pressure is applied, liquid
moves from high concentration to lower concentration. Reverse (RO) is a method
that removes many types of large and from solutions by applying pressure to the
solution when it is on one side of a selective . The result is that the is retained on the
pressurized side of the membrane and the pure is allowed to pass to the other side.
Reject of the reverse osmosis plant is fed into the desalination plant (thermal).
Backwash of the sand filter is fed into the main treatment facility.
Total cost of treating the effluent for the said unit is approximately Rs. 4.5/ cu.m.
of effluent including RO plant cost.
Air pollution Control:
Arvind Limited has switched from liquid fuel to Natural gas for all their heating&
steam requirements in order to avoid the air pollution.
Solid Waste Management
All the units believe in waste minimization measures. The plant is provided with
adequate sludge Dewatering facilities with decanter centrifuges. De-watered sludge
is dried in solar evaporation pans for further volume reduction. Waste oil generated
in all the units is recycled. Polythene liners, discarded containers are disposed-off to
the respective buyers.


Page 95 of 97



Accreditions

ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Gandhinagar-India, for Manufacture
and Supply of Denim Fabrics.
The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management systems and
designed to help organizations ensure that they meet the needs of customers and
other stakeholders while meeting statutory and regulatory requirements related to
the product.
The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in thinking by actually
placing the concept of process management front and center ("Process management"
was the monitoring and optimization of a company's tasks and activities, instead of
just inspection of the final product).

IS0 14000:
Provides environment management standards to help organizations minimize
their negative impact on the environment
Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by third party
Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and
Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric including
stretch denims.
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system
for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or
regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health, and
parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health.
Skal International Standards for Sustainable Textile Production by
Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of organic
cotton.

Global Organic Textile Standards, Control Union Certifications, The
Netherlands, for Processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.

Page 96 of 97



Levis strauss: Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods
and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL National Accreditation Board for Laboratories, Delhi,
India, for Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.

Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods and
conditions set forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The Arvind Mills
Ltd.

Liz Claiborne Intl Ltd., Testing audit performance, Laboratory, Shirting
Business Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

Labs certified by duPont













Page 97 of 97



References

Fabric science Glock and Kunj

Fabric Finishing J T Marsh

Textile Science - B P Corbman

Textile Science Tortora

WEB-REFERENCES

www.arvindmills.com

www.garmento.org

www.denimology.com

www.cottoninc.com