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This document provides instructions for four techniques to create chevron patterns in fabric for unique garments: 1) Cut striped fabric pieces on the bias to create chevron patterns when sewn together, 2) Embellish plain fabric with small parallel folds or "pintucks" arranged diagonally, 3) Create inverted pintucks by folding fabric wrong sides together and topstitching close to the fold, 4) Piece two fabrics together in a chevron pattern by cutting and sewing strips.
This document provides instructions for four techniques to create chevron patterns in fabric for unique garments: 1) Cut striped fabric pieces on the bias to create chevron patterns when sewn together, 2) Embellish plain fabric with small parallel folds or "pintucks" arranged diagonally, 3) Create inverted pintucks by folding fabric wrong sides together and topstitching close to the fold, 4) Piece two fabrics together in a chevron pattern by cutting and sewing strips.
This document provides instructions for four techniques to create chevron patterns in fabric for unique garments: 1) Cut striped fabric pieces on the bias to create chevron patterns when sewn together, 2) Embellish plain fabric with small parallel folds or "pintucks" arranged diagonally, 3) Create inverted pintucks by folding fabric wrong sides together and topstitching close to the fold, 4) Piece two fabrics together in a chevron pattern by cutting and sewing strips.
up everywhere, from clothing to accessories to home dcor. These fabrics are especially flattering for garments, as they create diagonal lines for a slimming effect. Learn four fun and simple techniques to translate this runway trend and design custom chevron fabric for unique garments. Diagonal { by Ana Jankovic } D E S I G N All patterns are author's own designs. SEWNEWS. COM 35 Show Your Stripes Turn a striped fabric in various direc- tions within a garment to transform the stripes into slimming geometric chevron patterns. When working with striped fabric, always alter and prepare the pattern first. The featured dress is composed of a waist seam and simple pencil skirt. Trace the pattern pieces onto new paper. On the skirt-front pattern, draw several equally spaced diagonal lines connect- ing the side seam and center front. Redraw the lines until satisfied with the angles. Highlight one line in a bold color (1). In the following steps, this line is referred to as the stripe line. Place the skirt-back pattern right side down over the skirt front, aligning the side seams. Copy the stripe line onto the back pattern using a bold color (2). Place the front-bodice pattern right side down over the front skirt, align- 1 2 36 sew NEWS FEBRUARY/ MARCH 2014 ing the waistline. Copy the stripe line onto the front bodice in the same manner (3). Repeat the process to mark the back bodice. Lay the striped fabric right side up in a single layer on a large work sur- face. Position a pattern piece over the fabric, matching a fabric stripe to the marked stripe line; pin (4). To cut a mirrored pair, such as the front skirt pieces, first position and cut the first piece using the pattern. Flip the cut fabric piece to the wrong side, and then position it right side down over the fabric, carefully aligning the fabric stripes (5). Pin, and then cut out the second piece. When constructing the garment, carefully match the stripes along the seamlines (not the seam-allowance edge) and pin generously. Also note that the fabric is cut on the bias, which stretches more easily than the straight-grain. To avoid stretching and distortion, dont over-handle the gar- ment pieces. Use this method to create large chev- ron blocks throughout the garment, as in the featured dress, or use it to highlight just one area. For example, cut a wide waistband in a chevron pattern or just the side panels of a gored skirt. 5 4 3 Stripe Line Match stripes. SEWNEWS. COM 37 Petite Pintucks Embellish the surface of a plain fabric with small pintucks, and then arrange them into a textured chevron pattern. Use the pintucked fabric for an entire garment or to highlight particular sec- tions. This technique offers a great way to dress up a basic button-down shirt, and works best for mediumweight woven fabrics, such as cotton, linen, or silk doupioni or shantung. Use matching thread for a subtle effect or contrasting thread to add more drama to the garment. Cut a large fabric rectangle. The fabric rectangle size depends on the size of the pattern piece. Keep in mind that the fab- ric will shrink slightly after pintucking. Determine the desired distance between the pintucks. For the featured shirt, the pintucks are placed 1apart. Mark equally spaced lines along the long edges for the pintucks (6). The lines should be parallel to the fabric straight grain. Fold the rectangle with wrong sides together along each marked line; press. For very crisp folds, press each line over a piece of cardboard or card stock (7). Set the machine to a 2mm stitch length. Edgestitch each fold as closely as possible to create the tucks (8). Press the fabric first from the wrong side, and then from the right side. To create the chevron pattern when cutting and constructing the garment pieces, use the method in Show Your Stripes, treating the pintucks as stripes. 6 7 8 38 sew NEWS FEBRUARY/ MARCH 2014 9 Inverted Pintucks As a variation on the pintucked chev- ron design, create inverted topstitched pintucks. This method is suitable for heavier fabrics, such as cotton twill, velour, velvet, wool, boiled wool, or denimanything that prominently dis- plays the topstitching. Add texture to a princess-seamed jacket or make a strik- ing coat with sleeve cuffs and a collar accentuated by inverted pintucks. Cut a fabric rectangle larger than the pattern piece. Keep in mind that the fabric will shrink quite a bit after pintucking. To determine the correct amount of fabric to cut, test the process on a scrap. On the fabric wrong side, mark the pintuck lines, spacing them 2 or more apart. Fold the rectangle with right sides together along each marked line; press. Stitch each line from the fabric wrong side approximately 3 8 from the fold. Press the pintucks in one direction first from the right side and then from the wrong side (9). From the right side, topstitch 1 4 from each pintuck seam (10). To create the chevron pattern when cutting and constructing the garment pieces, use the method in Show Your Stripes, treating the pintucks as stripes. 10 Right Side Wrong Side SEWNEWS. COM 39 Pieced Pattern This piecing method allows you to create your own striped fabric to incor- porate into a garment design. The technique is suitable for medium- to heavyweight fabrics. Use two contrast- ing fabric colors, or experiment with more than two colors for a more eye- catching effect. On a piece of pattern paper, trace the desired pattern-piece outline. Within the outline, draw a chevron pattern. Once satisfied with the angles and shape, number the stripe sections, and then cut them out (11). Assign the even number stripes to one fabric color and the odd number stripes to the remaining fabric color. Cut the stripes from the fabric. Align the stripes along the long edges with right sides together, fol- lowing the number order. First align the chevron center, and then move toward one end; pin. Stitch toward the point, clipping the corner and then aligning the remainder of the stripe with right sides together (12). Press the seams in one direction, and then continue piecing the stripes until complete. Z 12 1 2 3 4 5 6A 6B 7A 7B 11 5 4 3 2 1 7B 7A 6A 6B