cent cent. The Commis s ion tor Agricuiture Cos ts arid Prices (CACP) recommends MSP for two bas ic varieties of raw cotton of fair-average quaiity. Whiie on is the medium iong s tapie iength group of 25 mm-27 mm of the variety F414/H-777/J-34, the other is the iong stapie group of 27.5 mm-32 which is of the variety H-4. While deciding the IVISP, the cos t of production and a reasonable margin of profits for cotton growers are taken into account. The country produced 31. 5 million bales (1 bale = 170 kg) in 2007-08 agains t 28 million bales in 2006-07. However, due to a fall in acreage in the US and higher global demand, cotton exceeded the target of 8.5 million bales and went ahead 10 million bales . This had its impact on the cotton prices which shot up to historical highs in the current cotton year. China's loss c a be I ndi a' s gain in textile market A fall in the export of textile and ap- parel from china to the United States during January-June, even as the value of India's s hipments remained un- changed, is sparking hopes of a shift in US orders from the world's most popu- lous nation to this country. India, Viet- nam, Cambodia and Banglades h are among the few countries whos e ex- ports of textile and apparel to the US rose during the first six months of 2008 while the world's bigges t economy goes through a downturn. However, China, Pakis tan, Sri Lanka and Turkey have s een a s lowdown in offtake from their US s uppliers amid a drop in the value of the country's textile and apparel imports . One can s ee some shift in orders from China to other countries , notably Banglades h and In- dia. We can pos s ibly look at an addi- tional $1 billion of exports happening out of India, the US importers are ag- gressively looking at alternate s ourcing locations and India is high on the buy- ers ' list. Official US statistics show that the coun- try imported textiles and apparel worth $24.37 billion during Jan-June 2008, a 5. 1% drop compared to $25.7 billion in the corres pondi ng year-ago peri od. From 2004 to 2007, the country's im- ports rose from $46.93 billion to $53.12 billion. India's exports to the US in the firs t s ix months this year remained barely changed at $1. 42 billion from $1. 41 billion while Vietnam's grew to $824 million from $668 million. Banglades h's s hipments went up to $832 million from $811 million. The value of Chinese textile exports , on the other hand, fell from $9.7 billion to $9.5 billion, while Pakis tan was down to $1. 42 billion ($1. 68 billion) and Sri Lanka $201 million ($245 million). Tur- key clocked exports of $264 million from $313 million in the first six months of 2007. Global buyers are looking at the cheap- es t-cos t producer. Indian exporters need to look at moving up the value chain and ens uring better realizations at a time when currency movement would be highly unpredictable. Doom for handloom Des pite concerted efforts by the Gov- ernment of India to protect region-s pe- cific products through Geographical Indication (GIs) Act, handloom fabrics are on the verge of collaps e with loom- ing threat of fakes , increas ing unem- ployment and a lack of will on the part of textile authorities to correct the flaws in the system. One only has to talk to thos e involved with the world-famous 'Banaras i' sarees to get a true picture. Banaras i s aree and brocade, one of the product cat- egories that fall under the Geographical Indication (Gis ) Act, today faces the bigges t threat from pass-offs produced by powerlooms of Surat. An original Benares saree, which takes 5-7 days and is s ix meters long, is priced at Rs. 1,500. But pass-offs from Surat's powerlooms , which produces three sarees in one day, is today avail- able between Rs. 250-450. The pass-offs not only eat into the live- lihood of s rores of s killed Banaras i weavers , they als o des troy the well- earned recognition of the fabric, over six lakh skilled workers who run this Rs. 4,000-crore bus ines s today aren't get- ting the due wages . HWA is a regis tered s ociety bas ed in Varanasi (which the Britis hers referred to as Benaras ) this is clos ely working with the weavers of Banarasi s arees . Kannur home furni s hi ng is another handloom category that has been suf- fering, but due to a lack of interest from the younger generation. In fact, it has seen a 50 per cent decline in volumes in the last few years . Despite exporting towels , table clothes , pillow covers , cus hion covers and bed s preads to the value of Rs. 300 crore annually, the volume is fas t eroding due to a declining population O;^weav- ers. 3 Over 50 per cent of the labour engaged in this home furnishing business is over 50 years of age, the young don't want to follow their family tradition, Kannur home furni s hi ng indus try has s een employment figures dwindling down from 1 lakh weavers 15 years back to just 13,000 weavers now. The other threat the handloom industry is facing is a lack of will in executing the Handloom Mark Scheme ins tituted by the government of India in June 2006 to promote handloom products on the domes tic as well as international s cene. The s cheme calls for handloom weav- ers and traders to apply a 'handloom tag' on the handwoven products . The problem with the s cheme is that there is very little funds going into the promotion of the tags among the weav- ers. Ma n -m a d e Textiles i n I n d i a Se pt e m b e r 2008 Also, with each tag coming for 60 paise, it comes with a high cost for poor weavers - a real indicator of the poor margins these weavers earn now. Two years after implementation of the scheme, only four entrepreneurs in the whole of Kannur have applied for the scheme. Centre to develop t e x t i l e hub in Coimbatore The textiles ministry has identified South India Textile Research Associa- tion (SITRA) based in Coimbatore for development into a centre of excel- lence for production of medical textiles products (Meditech). The government would grant Rs. 10 crore to set up the necessary facilities, including interna- tionally accredited testing lab, training facilities, IT enabled information center and video-conferencing facility. This maiden effort is part of the ministry's strategy to provide one-stop infrastructure support for the promotion of technical textiles, which have an estimated market potential of Rs. 30,000 crore by the end of 2008-09. Coimbatore has been selected as it has a large number of hospitals and several textile units through-out Tamil Nadu are already active players in medical tex- tiles. The upcoming center is likely to oper- ate successfully helping entrepreneurs to produce items with existing machin- ery and with minimum investment. The SITRA centre would be followed by three more - The Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) for pro- motion of protective textiles, the Mumbai Textile Research Association for geo-Textiles, and Synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA) and Man-made Textile Asso- ciation for agro-textiles. To promote medical textiles, the SITRA centre would go a step further to invite internatinal experts to create awareness among local entrepreneurs about vari- ous products by means of seminars and workshops for the local industry. At the same time, to expand the limited database of technical textiles, the gov- ernment has engaged ICRA Manage- ment Consultancy Services (ImaCS) to conduct a baseline survey of the seg- ment. The report of the ImaCS would be available next month. According to textile minister Shankersingh Vaghela, the government has chalked out an action plan to pro- mote technical textiles which is an emerging area for investment in the country and has provided opportunity to conventional textile manufacturers to diversify into niche knowledge-based activity. Being less competitive and more profitable than conventional tex- tiles, the $107 billion global technical textile industry is expected to grow to $127 billion by 2010. Vaghela expressed concern about India having a meager 4% share in this mar- ket, though it is the second largest tex- tile economy after China which ac- counts for 20% of the total textile activ- ity. To facilitate investments in the area, the government has included major machinery required for technical tex- tiles in the list of items with concessional custom duties in the modified Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) this year. Olympics spells doom for t e x t i l e units in Bhiwandi The Beijing Olympic Games has not spelled good news for more than 60 textile processing units in Bhiwandi with shortage of dyes and chemicals, largely imported from China, fuelling a spike in their input costs. The industry that depends on Chinese dyes and chemicals has been put into a spot after the Olympic host shut down its local chemical-manufacturing units be- cause of pollution concerns. In just over three months, prices of dyes and chemicals imported from China has jumped by more than 200%- 300%, hurting the only source of liveli- hood for more than 200,000 workers and weavers of this vital textile city of western India. If the escalating prices of dyes were not enough, the rising crude oil prices and doublt-digit inflation has made matters worse. Dyes, chemicals, electricity, water and coals are the major inputs for the textile makers of Bhiwandi. The abnormal rise in prices of dyes and chemicals is due to phenomenal rise in crude oil prices, Bhiwandi is one of the largest textiles fabric producing centers giving employment to nearly two lakh weavers and workers. Traders said hoarding of key input by a section of traders is also hurting their margins. The industry has requested the govern- ment to consider the industry's demand for allotment of "A" grade coal at a subsidized rate. According to industry sources coal prices will cross Rs. 7,000 per tonne by December and if this trend will con- tinue, it will definitely ring the death knell for the labour intensive and ex- port-oriented industry. Textile industry in the red as de- mand f a l l s Rising raw material prices, lack of enough government support and de- clining demand in the United States have taken a toll on the Indian textile industry Thirty-three major textile companies have reported a cumulative loss of RS. 152.21 crore in the first quarter (April- June) of the current financial year, com- pared with a profit of Rs. 144.56 crore in the corresponding period of the pre- vious financial year. Major textile companies like Raymond and RSWM Ltd. have reported losses, whereas Vardhaman Textiles, Alok In- dustries, KPR Mill and Sutlej Textiles have witnessed a massive decline in their profits. The industry's performance was on the decline even last year on account of the dollar falling nearly 12 per cent against the rupee. The prices of differ- ent varieties of raw cotton rose nearly 40 per cent in 2008, with Shankar-6, the benchmark, selling at Rs. 28,500 September 2008 Man-made Textiles in India