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Increasing
Number of fashion Trends
Increasing Decreasing
Choice
Range of fabrics Fabric performance
Colour changes
Colour fastness
Environmental pressure
Colour Fastness Requirements Value for money
Order size
Repeat orders
Lead times
Which ultimately trends in increasing Production Cost and reducing Profit margins
Effects on Dyehouse
Energy costs
Increasing
1. Dyes 25%
2. Chemicals 15%
3. Wage & Salary 15%
4. Capital Investment
& Other Overhead 13% Capacity : 2 batches/day working 7 days a week
5. Energy 15%
6. Water 10%
7. Depreciation 7%
Increasing Productivity
Increase in Productivity 10% 20% 30% 40%
Reduction in total cost % 9 17 23 29
Additional batches/week 1.4 2.8 4.2 5.6
Summary
q Increasing RFT from 70 to 90 % reduces costs by 32%
q Increasing Productivity by 30% reduces cost by 23%
q Reducing dye costs by 30% only saves 7%
q Combined effect of increasing RFT from 70 to 90% with increase in Productivity of 30%,
even with 30% higher dye costs reduces total cost of production by 44%
q As a bonus additional ‘opportunity’ margin can be generated from increase in productivity.
Impact of RFT on Cost
250
200
Effect on Cost
150
S e r ie s 1
100
50
0
50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
R F T P e r f o r m a n ce
Conclusions
q Performance of dyestuff combinations is critical to cost and profitability of dyeing operation.
q Selection of the most suitable combination is essential for success.
Fibre pH
A simple & quick spotting test with pH indicator solution is done. A slightly acidic state avoids
premature fixation during migration phase of dye application. So, Ideal pH of fibre after
neutralization is to be 5.0-6.0
Fibre absorbency
Simple drop test with any temporary colouring liquid (i.e Potassium Permanganate Solution) can
confirm fibre absorbency property.
Salt Concentration
Confirm Salt concentration with a Hydrometer & SG Charts. Specific gravity is influenced by
temperature, so always confirm with a thermometer with Tolerance +/- 5% from target SG
Note: ‘portion-wise’ salt process does not allow this test
7. Sulfur dyes:
These are sulfur-containing dyes with high molecular weights. They are normally insoluble dyes
but become soluble & form leuco compound by reduction. Once applied to the fibre, they are
oxidized to become insoluble again. They are used for cellulose fibres.
8. Vat dyes:
Vat dyes are similar to sulfur dyes as they start as insoluble, become soluble upon reduction, &
are oxidized to become insoluble after application. They are used for cellulose dyeing & printing.
9. Pigment
One additional colourant class for fibres is pigments-are not soluble & do not dye fibres; are
normally applied in printing process along with a binder which fix the pigment particles on the
fabrics & show colour effects. Used on all fibre types, but are only attached to the surface of fibre.
C (Chromophores) : 2-3
R (Reactive group) : 3 R C R C R
Features of new structure
q High fixation rate (>90%)
q Medium-high affinity
q Flexible molecules
q Good wash-off property
q Excellent build-up ability
C6H10O5
F -SO2-CH2-CH2-O-Cell
+ Alkali Fibre Reaction
-SO2-CH2-CH2-OSO3Na
F -SO2-CH=CH2
ß-sulphato ethyl sulphone Reactive vinyl sulphone
F Hydrolysis
F -SO2-CH2-CH2-OH
HOH2C
OH
O
Cl
HO O N
O N SO3Na
CH2 N
HO HN
O
HO
O OH
N SO3Na
HOH2C NaO3S N
O O
O H
O O
O
N H N
N H
N
N
+
N
N H 2
N + H - D o n o r H N
H N . N H
N N H 2
N •
Temperature
Time pH value
110 MCT-VS
100
90
80
MCT
70 VS
60
50
40
30 40 50 60 70 80
Dyeing Temperature in °C
Acid pH Alkali
65 °C
65 °C
60 °C
60 °C
55 °C
55 °C
All reactive dyestuffs are sensible to the above parameters & show differences, more or
less. Dyestuffs selection of showing same behaviour can reduce sensitivity to different dye
parameters, but decisive for a good reproducibility is a conscientious working method !
Influence of diffusion, substantivity as a function of temperature in fastness washing
Substantivity Rel. diffusion
S D
40 50 60 70 ° 80 90 100
Temperature
C
Standard Requirements for Selection of Dyestuff:
Lower Substantivity + Moderate Reactivity + Lower dye-hydrolysate & Rapid washing-off
Ø The ‘right profile’ represents the best balance of cost and performance
Ø Preservation of Standardized dye quality
Ø Protection from decomposition Reactions
Ø Reasonable recipe cost according to buyers price
Ø Higher Solubility
Ø Higher Acid & Alkali stability
Ø Excellent dyebath stability
Ø Shade, tinctorial strength, viscosity
Ø Good technical performance to meet the most tailor made requirements
Target Profiles for Dyestuffs Selection
1. Substantivity in neutral electrolyte 70 – 80%
2. Exhaustion after the addition of alkali Above 90%
3. Fixation efficiency 80 - 90%
4. Migration Index Above 90%
5. Level Dyeing Factor Above 70%
6. Unfixed dye to be removed in the first hot rinse bath Above 60%
20% Underfill/20% Overfill Yellower Redder Less Blue Redder Little Stable
Redder
-10% Salt/+10% Salt Stable Yellower Less Blue Bluer Stable Stable
45 mins Fix/75 mins Fix Yellower Stable Bluer Yellower Stable Stable
Compatibility
STD. A B C D E F G H
Fixation
Standard. Recipe
A : Alkali -20% E : Temp. 50 Chemicals Requirement : Glauber’s salt 60g/l, Soda ash 20g/l
B : Alkali +20% F : Temp. 70 Liquor ratio : 1:10
C : Salt -20% G : L.R. 1:8 Dyeing Temp. : 60
D : Salt +20% H : L.R. 1:12 Exhaustion time 20min., Fixation time 60min.
Conclusion
Traditional combinations are sensitive with large changes in hue, especially to time & temperature
Influence of Chemicals, Processes & Substrates:
For Production of Deep and Color fast Blacks
q Mixture of Soda Ash/Caustic Soda gives highest fixation
q 60’C application ensures good diffusion and penetration
q Highest fixation and diffusion reduce ‘bronzing’ effect
q Best process for fixation and reproducibility is automet
For Production of Bright Greens and Turquoise
q Best preparation – fibre hardness contamination needs to be minimized
q Migration (Temperature raising) Method would give better levelling.
q Avoid using non-ionic chemicals in dyebath
q Good anticreasant with emulsifying properties
q Best quality (pH lower than 8 & zero hardness) Glauber’s Salt
q Use clean Machine
For Production of ready for dis-charge print fabric
q Required dischargeable plus highly pure Reactive dyes to be selected
q Cationic Finishes to be avoided for white dis-chargeability
q Careful usage of Activator: to be added to ink just before printing-should not be pre-mixed earlier
Possible problems and causes
Potential problems
Ø Unlevelness, Shade Variation-Long variation/Short Variations
Ø Poor penetration
Ø Surface deposition
Possible causes
Ø Wrong or poor quality ancillary equipment (e. g. pumps)
Ø Problems due to improper synchronization of winch speed & fabric string speed
Ø Sub-optimized dyeing process
Ø Incorrect dye selection
Ø Improper Auxiliaries selection & Inefficient pretreatment
By Dyeing Machine
Potential Problems-In Processing
q Poor liquor circulation-Too low circulation results in-Unlevelness due to insufficient liquor flow
q Poor temperature control
q Contaminated addition tanks or dyeing equipments (dyes, O.B.A, Softeners, oligomer)
q Flooded seals at reduced liquor levels
In Reactive Dyeing
q Inefficient pretreatment.
q Inefficient rinsing after pretreatment.
q Inappropriate dosing cycle times for the dyes used.
q Inefficient rinsing after dyeing.
q Unleveled application of cationic products to the goods (especially in pale shades).
q Inappropriate dye selection for down-stream processes (eg., post-bleach, post-merc.).
In Polyester Dyeing
q Lack of heat-setting of Yarn or fabric leads to shrinkage on dyeing
q Unevenly heat set of the substrate
q Poor temperature control
- Dispersion stability problems
- Unleveled dyeing
q Incorrect dye selection
q Insufficient dispersing agent with highly concentrated dyestuffs
q Too much auxiliary (less is better)
q Waxes, oils, hydrocarbons on the substrates.
Wash Off
Pale Shades:
Pre-cautions to be ensured for achieving required light fastness, shades changes
possibilities & other pale shade related fastness:
Cotton:
Ø As dyestuffs amount is very low, usually the best quality dyestuffs to be chosen.
Ø Avoid matching any light shades without dyestuffs-mostly by scouring as colour fastness of
natural Chromophores & different contamination of scoured fabrics change in time & do not give
permanent effect.
Ø Select equal light & other fast dyes components for on tone fading.
Ø Avoid using any “Cationic finish” or Fixatives as they adversely affect Light fastness
Ø Removal of maximum hydrolyzed dyestuffs from substrates with efficient wash off process.
Polyester:
Ø Proper Pre-heat set needed to evenly rearrange the fibre structure.
Ø For polyester-filament, applicable dyes energy level is inversely proportionate to filament no.
Ø A non-ionic wetting agent to be used with other reduction cleaning recipe.
Ø A post-heat set is not always necessary.
Ø Nano Type :
Amino Silicon Nano-emulsion, having particle size up to 10nm, is physically water like
transparent. Because of their finest particle size, they can easily penetrate right in to the core of
fibre very easily and after cross-linking; they make the fabrics soft handled and elastomeric.
Due to their penetration in side the core of fibres & cross-linking there, they push out the rest
hydrolyzed dyestuffs particles resulting in negatively affect the rubbing, staining, washing &
other fastness properties of fabrics. So, it is advisable to avoid using comparatively loser
particles sized silicone emulsion in darker shaded fabrics.
Ø Micro Types:
Amino Silicon Micro Emulsion, containing particle size above 10nm & up to 50-100nm, is also
physically transparent looking. Because of their smaller particle size, they can penetrate into
the inner parts of the fabrics and with the effect of the temperature; the silicon particles cross-
link themselves with the presence of amino-based emulsifier and hence impart permanent
elastomeric type softness. This type of silicone particle sized emulsion also contributes to the
deteriorations of rubbing, staining, washing & other fastness properties due to the same reason
as nano type silicones sized particles do.
Ø Semi-Micro Types:
Silicon Emulsion containing particle size above 100nm & up to 150nm, are physically
translucent looking. Because of their comparatively smaller particle size than the macro
emulsion but larger than the nano & micro-emulsion, they cannot fully penetrate into the
inner part of the substrate and hence remain submerged in the fabric surface and get cross-
linked there. That’s why they impart both elastomeric and slippery type softness on the surface
of the fabrics. They deteriorate the fastness of dyed fabrics to a few extent.
Ø Macro Type:
Amino Silicon Macro Emulsion, containing particle size above 150nm, is physically opaque
looking. Usually, they’re less shear force stable and emulsion can easily break. So, they can’t be
applied in exhaust process. Because of their comparatively larger particle size, they cannot
penetrate into the inner parts of the fabrics and remain on the surface of the fabrics and then
during drying they cross-link and impart permanent slippery type smooth softness effect on
the surface of the fabrics. So, it also helps in developing rubbing fastness of the substrate.
Ionic Characteristics:
Silicon Emulsions are made by Silicon particles with amine-based emulsifiers and are given
either Anionic or Cationic or Non-ionic nature during manufacturing. So, all kinds of silicon
can be usually of two kinds according to the ionic nature: