1

DEDICATED TO

SRI BANKE BIHARILALJI

AND

MY FAMILY





















2
PREFACE

Sewing is an ancient art involving stitching of cloths using needle and thread. Previously, it was
done by hand gradually, sewing machine came into existence. Nowadays, there is variety of
sewing machines available with multi functions and techniques. It makes sewing very easy.
Today, ready-made clothing is in trend but it does not affect the popularity of home sewing and
at the same time we cannot avoid the trend of readymade garments. Though, there are some
garments which we can not stitch at home because stitching them at home seems troublesome
say for example Nehru Coat, Gents three-piece suit, Blazer etc. Such garments need special
skills and technology along with special type of machines to do the same. To simplify, at home
with ease this book has been designed to benefit all those who wish to stitch such garments at
home.
Stitching at home with fineness and fitness could be each and every womans desire alone but
might be averse to this thought because it is cumbersome and not so very clear enough to take up
such assignments at home. I have experienced the same sitting alone at my home. And one fine
day I decided to venture out and tried to locate some elementary write ups in various book stalls
but could not find the same. I have a background in this field and have learnt from many
stalwarts of this trade some tricks and techniques of this trade while learning myself and
thereafter while imparting other housewives and learning students at my home from past several
years. My students inspired me to write on this subject the way I have handled them during the
learning session. I really got imbibed by them and took up this project with a serious thought.
This is my debut venture and might not effectively work out in the way I have tried to
explain things in a simpler way, however, I wish that the same has to be conveyed once to many
aspiring learners. Not all but if a few of them are benefited through this book, I shall be quite
happy and thankful to my mentors.
To learn home sewing one has to follow some methods and procedures. In the second
edition of my book I tried not only to describe all the techniques of sewing in a very easy language
but I added instruction and construction of new designer garments of women as blouses, salwar
kurta and ghagra or lehenga, which is easy to understand and follow the same. This book will also
help to develop the ideas of designing various garments for children and adults. There are many
tips which shall help to solve the problems related to fitting of a particular dress by simple cutting
and sewing. Many ideas to decorate the dress have been also suggested.

I hope this book will be helpful for those who are interested in sewing and have some innovative ideas of
designing the garments.


KUSUM SHARMA
(Author)









3

CONTENTS

CHAPTER 1 PAGE
Basic sewing stitches, seam finishes and fullness in a garment 4 to 9
CHAPTER 2
Neckline, Facing & lining, Pockets & plackets & fasteners 10 to 16
CHAPTER 3
Collars & Sleeves 17 to 24
CHAPTER 4
Basic elements of design 25 to 27
CHAPTER 5
Knowledge of sewing machine 28 to 34
CHAPTER 6
Necessary equipment for sewing and knowledge of fabrics 35 to 39
CHAPTER 7
Body measurement and measurement table 40 to 45
CHAPTER 8
Drafting and layout pattern 46 to 49
CHAPTER 9
Childrens clothes 50 to 70
CHAPTER 10
Womens clothes 71 to 86
CHAPTER 11
Gents garments 87 to 97
CHAPTER 12
Glossary of sewing terms 98 to 113
CHAPTER 13
Pictures gallery 114 to 120














4
CHAPTER 1

BASIC SEWING STITCHES, SEAM FINISHES & FULLNESS OF
A GARMENT
In garment making, knowledge of sewing techniques is necessary. There are some stitches made by
hand and machine to complete garment sewing. Some stitches made by hand are temporary and some
are permanent. Temporary stitches are used to hold the part of the garment pieces together before
permanent stitches are made. Commonly these stitches are made on curved area of the garment such on
armhole and necklines. To join facing on neckline and armhole tacking with the hand needle is
preferable for good finishing. Some permanent hand stitches are hemming, herringbone and overcastting
stitches, which are used to finish the garment.
Basting or tacking
This type of stitches is commonly done as raw stitches to hold the two pieces of fabric together. Hand
Basting is very essential while attaching yoke, collar, sleeves, plackets, gathers, pleats or patches.


Running stitch
Hand needle stitch of equal distance is useful for gathering, mending and quilting.


Back stitch
Back stitch is very firm and strong for the area where machine needle cannot reach
easily.


Hemming stitch
Hemming is a slant stitch done on wrong side and very fine and small stitches shows on right side.
This is very essential stitch to complete and finish the garment. Hemming can be done on neck line,
Bottom flair of frocks and skirts, sleeve bottom, plackets etc.



5

HEMMING

SEAM FINISHES
Seam finish is a finish applied to a raw edge to control ravel and fraying. They also provide a neat
appearance to the inside of a garment. The type of finish depends upon the weight of the fabric, the
amount and kind of wear and care of a garment and kind of seams of a garment.
Pinked finish
Pinked finish is a trim on edges of seam allowance after the seam. This is a kind of small zigzag cutting
on edges. This kind of seam finish is suitable only for light fabric.

Edge stitched finish
In this seam finish the seam is stitched and pressed open, and then under on each seam edge and top
stitch close to the fold without catching the garment. This type of finish is suitable for bulky fabric. This
is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam allowance is wide.

Double stitch finish
After making a plain seam, this stitch is done away from the raw edges. This finish is for light or
normal weight fabric.



Herringbone stitch or catch stitch
This stitch is also a kind of hemming, which is useful for knitted fabric. It allows the fabric to stretch
without causing the stitches to




6
Over casting stitches
Over casting stitches is used for inside seam of two layer of fabric after joining on the edges to lock the
threads to come out. It is useful for side seam of trouser, sleeves etc.


Over casting stitch
Bound seam edge finish
After making plain seam, edges of seam allowance is finished by bias strips of fabrics. Bias strips are of
light material. Fold the both side edges of strips and bound on the edges of the seam allowance and
stitch to finish. This type of finish is done inside the trouser.

SEAM
In general terms of sewing, seam is a line of stitching to join two layers of fabrics. To join different
parts of a garment different type of stitch is used. Not only had that even different type of fabric also
required different type of seams. Some seams are shown on right side of a garment, and some are hidden
inside.
Flat or plain seam
Flat or plain seam commonly used in dress making. Seam allowance for both the layer of fabric will be
equal and edges should finished by overcastting or zigzag.


Flat felled seam
First make a plain seam and trim one side of seam allowance to avoid thickness. Press the seam, turn
and fold the larger seam allowance to encase the trimmed edge. The folded edge has two rows of
machine stitches and is used for jeans and shirts.






7
French seam
This seam is a seam within a seam. Make a plain seam on the right side of the fabric at a distance of
from edges. The seam is then pressed to one side, turned over to the wrong side of the fabric and then
machined at the actual seam line. The first seam is thus enclosed by the second seam line.

Lapped seam
When the yoke and dress or any two sections of fabric to be joined, one upon another then the upper part
of the fabric is lapped over the lower edge. This seam gives the raised effect.

Lap felled seam
Parallel stitch to lapped seam is called lap felled seam.
Bound seam
The seam edges are bound by a bias strip of a thin fabric to keep the seam from fraying.
Flat n felled seam
Make a plain seam to join two layers of fabrics. Press both the seam allowances either side and machine
two parallel stitches on right side of the garment.
Piped seam
A narrow cord is inserted in the bias strip of a fabric and stitched is piped seam.
Loops
Loops are stitched to insert belt on trousers and shorts. Stitch a strip of a fabric by folding edges of both
sides and place on the area to attach and stitch by bar tacking method.

GATHERS
Gathers are fullness of fabric in garment. To make gathers extra fabric is required. Suppose for the skirt
of chest + 8 is for normal gathers and for more gathers increase the fabric in inches. Gathering can
be done either by hand needle or by machine also. By hand needle make running stitches in equal
distance and adjust gatherings by pulling the thread at one end. In machine increase the stitch width and
after stitching adjust gatherings by pulling thread at one end. Gathers can be done on sleeves, necklines,
skirts or blouses etc.



8


PLEATS
Pleats are the folds of fabric to control fullness. For the pleats, requirement of fabric depends upon the
number and width of the pleats. There are various types of pleats plain pleats, knife pleats, box pleats,
inverted box pleats etc.



DARTS
Darts are stitched to give a perfect shape and fitting to a dress. It is used basically in womens dresses.
Darts are stitched in a particular area of dress and can be shift as per requirement of the shape and
fitting. Commonly there are shoulder darts, bust darts, waist darts and hip darts for various garments.
Some steps to be taken to form a dart.
1 Determine the number of dart.
2 The width, length and position of dart should determine.
3 Dart point should be either one side or both sides.


TUCKS
Tucks are the stitches by hand or machine on the right side of the fabric to give fullness to the garment
or for decorative purpose. It gives raising effect. Tucks should stitch on plain fabric first, afterwards cut
the pattern of the garment. Tuck can be done on yoke, sleeves, pockets and waist part of skirt. It gives
the raising effect. Pin tucks may be only in vertical lines, or vertical and horizontal lines as cross or can
be stitched on bias fabric.



FRILLS AND RUFFLES
Frills are a long strip gathered fabric used for the designing purpose. Frills are attached to the garment
on one corner. But ruffles are gathered and attached on centre. Frills are used mainly in frocks, skirts,
sleeves, collars, necks and yokes. Ruffles are used for shirts, plackets, skirts and frocks etc.




9

FRILLS RUFFLES

SMOCKING
Smocking is a method to enrich any garment on yoke, neck line and sleeve bottoms. It is suitable for
frocks and womens garments, such as dresses, nighty and blouses. For smocking mark equal points of
or distance on both side edges of the fabric. Stitch the gather on the same points by hand needle,
pull the thread from one end for close gathering. Close and vertical lines of folding will be shown. On
these folding embroidery can be done by different colour of threads with different types of stitches.




























10
CHAPTER 2

NECKLINES, FACING & LINING, POCKET,
PLACKETS & FASTENERS
NECKLINES
Neckline finish is very important for the final appearance of the garment. There are various types of
shapes of neck lines such as round, square, v shape, sweet heart etc.

To draw neck line mark 0 to 1 as length or depth of the neck as per choice. 0 to 2 is the width of the
neck i.e. 1/12
th
of the chest measurement. 3 is the meeting point of 1 and 2. Measure 4 a center point of
1-3 and 5 a centre point of 2-3. Measure 1 diagonally outside from 3 and name as 6. Draw a curved
shape with the help of the French curve on 4 to 5. By following this method other different type of neck
shapes can be drawn within the rectangle shape of 0-1-3 & 2. To draw sweetheart shape measure
outside from 4-5 and 6-7 at the center point of 1-3 and 2-3 in second figure. Draw curve shape with the
help of French curve on 1-5-3 and 3-7-2. Same method can be followed to draw scalloped shape of
neck.
Join 1 and 2 as V shape and divide in two, three or more equal measures as per the size of scallops.
Leave a small V shape at point 1 and for other scallops mark the center points. From these center points
measure outside for scallops on 7-8 and 9-10. Draw curve shape with the help of French curve on 4-
8-5 and 5-10-6.


Necklines can be finished by facing, piping or collar. To finish the neckline with facing, place front and
back bodice on a piece of fabric, this is folded on lengthwise. Draw outline of the neck shape and
remove the bodice. Now mark the width of the neck shape strip around the neck shape and draw final
outline. Cut the strip as per marking. Mark a small notch on the centre back and centre front of the strip
and bodice. Place the strip on right side of the bodice with matching front and back notch. Tack the strip
with hand needle for good finish. Stitch on away from edges. Remove tacking, turn and press the
seam. Turn the strip on wrong side of the bodice. Fold other side edges of the strip and hem. Before
hemming, tacking can give good finish. This method is useful for any kind of neck shape, especially


11
sweet-heart, scallop shape or any other type of curved shapes. Before turning, cut a small on stitched
edges on corners for good shape.

Another way to finish the neck line is with bias strips of fabric. Bias strips are more stretchable so that,
after turning it maintains the neck shape. To join two or more bias strips place them as shown in figure
and join as per requirement. Place the strip on right side of the bodice and tack with the hand needle.
Stitch from edges. Cut a small on the edges of the (A & B, see the figure) corners and shapes of the
neck line. Turn and press the seam.

Fold other side edges and tack. To finish the neck line, hem. Bias strip finish is suitable for curved and
V shape necklines. For the piping finish, bias strips should be joined. For piping, strip should stretch on
straight line of neck line and should not stretch on curved shapes. Some time neck facing material,
easily available in market with one side adhesive and can stick with neck strip, by hot ironing. This
facing helps to maintain the pointed shapes of neck on the light weight fabric material. After stitching
neck facing strip a small cut diagonally (as shown on below figure) and turn to press the seam and hem
to get perfect shape of neckline.

All these methods are useful to finish neck lines in garments like frocks, kurtis and blouses. Lace, collar,
embellishment with bids or other materials and embroidery are some other options to finish neck lines.
FACING & LINING
Facing are used to finish the necklines and arm holes in a garment. The felted facing should cut exact
the shape of the neck line, round, square or V shape and then cut the same shape of fabric layer also
matching to the garment. First place fabric layer of neckline and then lining part on the garment on right
side. Tack with hand needle and then machine. Turn on wrong side neatly, fold the edges and hem to
finish the neck line. Same method is applicable for arm hole finishing also.
LINING
Lining is a very light material to attach from inside the garment to protect the fabric from sagging. It
used for very fine fabrics, transparent fabrics and lace or net fabrics. To attach lining cut the lining


12
fabric same as the bodice and keep 1/4 allowance for seam on shoulder and side seam and then
machine with the main part and turn inside for final stitching. Lining should attach on side seam, and
shoulder area.

Mulmul, voile, cambric and satin fabrics are good for lining and can be selected according to the main
fabric. If lining material is starched then pre-wash the material before use to prevent shrinkage.
INTERFACING
Interfacing is the material inserted between the garment and the facing or lining to add stiffness. It gives
a perfect shape and stiffness for collars, cuffs, plackets, waist belts, pocket flaps and salwar bottoms.
Interfacing are cut without seam allowances and place first main fabric then lining and on top place inter
facing piece and turn after machining.

POCKETS
Pockets are very important parts of a garment for storage and decorative purpose. There are many types
of pockets attached to different types of garments.
PATCH POCKETS
Patch pockets are a patch of fabric matching to the garment, attached on front part of the garment. To
attach patch pockets some precautions should be taken such as, the size of the pocket should be
according to the proportion of the garment. It should be attached in a correct position.
Fold one side edge of pocket and stitch. Fold other three side edges of the pocket and tack with hand
needle. Place the pocket on garment on decided position and tack with hand needle. Stitch the pocket on
two sides and bottom. Bar tack or zigzag stitch is necessary at the two sides of open area on top. (A &
B)

SLASH POCKET
Slash pockets may be one piece or two piece as per design of the garment. For slash pocket, mark the
pocket line and place the pocket on right side of the garment and tack. Slit along the pocket line and
make slashes at the two corners up to the seam line. Turn the pocket fabric inside. Press the seam and
finish the edges with bias strip. Slash pockets are for blazer, coat and trouser.


13

Slash Pocket

SEAM POCKETS
Pockets hidden inside the seam line of a garment is called seam pocket. This is a kind of two piece
pockets and attached to front part with the side seam of legs and with the waist band.

Join A, B and C, which is the shape of the pocket and turn so that seam part will be inside. Cut a
rectangle piece of main fabric according to the length of the open of the pocket. Place the rectangle
Piece D on inner layer of the pocket and stitch. Join another layer of pocket with the side seam of front,
turn and press the seam and finish the open part with a top stitch. Place the other layer of pocket with
side seam of front and back and join. Finish the both ends of opening by bar tacking or zigzag stitch.
This pocket is generally attached on lower waist line, such as on trouser, skirt and mens kurta.
KANGAROO POCKET
As per name this pocket is like a kangaroo bag and attached on the top side of the garment with flap.
Generally this pocket is attached on casual wear garments.

Flap stitching Kangaroo Pocket
Cut the piece of pocket as per size. Cut the flap piece as less than half of the length of the pocket. Fold
three side edges of flap and stitch. Place the flap piece on garment at position and stitch. Fold the top
edges of the pocket and stitch as in patch pocket. Cut a narrow strip of fabric according to the one width
and two length of the pocket. Stitch the strip on three sides of pocket. Fold the other side edges of the
strip, attached with pocket. Place the pocket on the position close to flap joining, so that flap will cover
the top part of the pocket, tack with hand needle and stitch. Kangaroo pockets are for casual wear
trousers and Bermuda.
PLACKETS
Plackets are a straight strip of fabric to finish the opening of the garment. Plackets are kept closed with
the fasteners such as buttons and buttonholes, hooks and eyes, press buttons or zip. Opening of a


14
garment depends upon the design, may be on front, back, on shoulder line or on waist line. Some
plackets are conspicuous and some are inconspicuous.
One piece placket
This one piece placket is attached on the garment as a slit opening, where there is no seam line. For this
type of placket cut a 2 width strip of fabric and length will be more than double the slit. It is attached
continuously from one end, tapering towards the midpoint. The fabric is then turned by leaving the
needle in the fabric and then machined to the other end. The placket piece is turned fully on the side and
machined on folded area. One piece plackets are used for sleeve cuffs, side opening in skirts etc.

One piece or continuous placket
Bound and faced placket
This placket is used in the left seam of the skirt, sari petticoat and back seam of dresses, frocks etc. Cut
two strips of fabric as per the length of the opening and 1 extra. One strip is 1 width and the other is
2 . Place 2 width of strip on right side of the fabric on right hand side part, and stitch from top to
bottom. At the end keep seam line narrow for convenience to turn. Press the seam and keep the placket
outer side. Fold the other side edges by and stitch. Double fold the placket and stitch. Place the 1
width strip of placket on the other part of the garment and stitch the same way as previous one. Fold the
edges and stitch. Press the seam and turn placket totally inside of the garment and finish by hemming.

Bound & faced Placket
Zipper placket
There are various methods to attach zip placket. Zip is generally concealed in garment or one side
overlap or sometime both side overlapped. Cut a strip of fabric with 1 to 2 width and length as per
opening of the garment. Open zip and place by turning one part of zip on right side of the garment and
tack with hand needle. Tacking is necessary to avoid slip of zip at the time of machining. Double fold
the fabric strip and place on tacked zip and stitch. Repeat the same method for other side. Press the seam
and turn the fabric strip on wrong side of the garment. To flatten the zip a top stitch is required on the
joining of the strip and zip from top side. To show the zip, this method can be used.
For one side overlap of zip stitching, two stripes of fabric are required as in previous method. Turn one
part of zip and place on the garment opening and tack with hand needle. Double fold the strip of fabric
and place above the zip and make a stitch close to the zip. Turn and press the seam. To flatten the zip
part a top stitch on joining line is required. Now on the other part, double the fabric strip and join with
the garment. Place the zip on the fabric strip folded edge and stitch on the edges of the zip part. Press the
seam and turn the fabric strip with stitched zip on wrong side of the garment. Join the strip with the
garment part away from edges. At the end of the zip opening bar tacking is necessary, so that zip
holder will not go inside and for smooth overlapping. Same method is applicable to stitch the zip for
trousers and shorts. For both side overlapping follow second part of zip joining of this method.


15

Conspicuous Placket
Kurta Placket
Kurta placket is two piece plackets. Lower placket is wider than upper one. The centre front line is slit
to form the opening in kurta. The wider piece is attached on the right and the other on the left. Both
these are then folded into half and machined. The larger placket is then flattened to extend equally on
either side of the seam line. The lower edge of the placket is folded into a V-shape and edge-machined.

Right side & Wrong side of Kurta placket

FASTENERS
All garments needs openings to put on and taken off easily. These openings can be closed in a variety of
ways. Plackets are stitched to finish the openings. For women garments, the right side part of the
garment laps over the left side and left side laps over the right side for mens garment. Fasteners should
be selected to suit the colour, design and texture of the fabric, the style and use of the garment and the
position of the placket. Fasteners should stitch after completing the garment by machine sewing.
Hooks and eyes
There are various kinds of hooks and eyes available. Hooks and eyes are generally made of metal and
are mostly applied on waist bands. There are provision of small holes to stitch hooks by needle and
thread. Generally, hooks and eyes remain hidden on the garment. The placket stitched with hook laps on
the placket stitched with eye. Place the hook on the edges of the placket and stitch making loops around
the hole of the hook. Repeat the same method of stitching for all the holes. Place eye on the opposite
side of placket, on edge and stitch on both ends hole on the same way.


For the small hooks, threaded eyes can make. Make a small loop of thread by stitching with hand needle
on the placket, repeat the loop three to more times for strong ness. Now fill the loop with blanket stitch
to bind all the loops together. Threaded loops used on the ladies blouses, dresses and frocks.


16

Buttons
Buttons stitched on the garment right side and for both functional and decorative purpose. Buttons are
also several types and made of various things. Buttons can be stitched with buttonholes or so many type
of press buttons are there to stitch on both side plackets to close. Buttons are made of plastic, wood,
beads, pearl and metal.
Place the button on the right side of the placket and stitch on the holes by inserting needle with thread
one to another by making two parallel stitch or cross.

Button Stitching Buttonhole Stitching


To make buttonhole mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the right side of the placket.
Buttonhole position will be always 3mm away from the placket edge. Same distance 3mm is applicable
for vertical or horizontal buttonhole. Buttonhole always made with matching thread of garment. Do not
slash the buttonhole. Stitch around the entire buttonhole using very fine hand running stitches to indicate
the width of the stitching. Fold the buttonhole end to end and make a small cut in the middle with a
sharp pointed pair of scissor. Open cut and slash to each end. Leaving thread unknotted take a back
stitch on the wrong side near the end of the buttonhole. Bring the needle out through the buttonhole to
the right side. With the right side of garment up, hold the cut buttonhole over the index finger of your
left hand and work the buttonhole using close buttonhole.
Buttonhole can be stitched by machine with close zigzag and both the ends should bar tack. Machine
stitched buttonholes are strong than stitched by hand. Vertical buttonholes are for mens shirt and
horizontal buttonholes for childrens garment.
Press Buttons
Press button are made of metal and available in different size. There is two part of press buttons; one is
ball and the other is socket. Ball is to press in socket to close the button. After completing the garment
and finish opening with placket, mark the points for button. Place ball part of button on right side, at the
centre of the placket width, which will lap on the other and stitch four holes of buttons one by one with
repeating the thread stitch four to five times. Place the socket part of button on wrong side of placket
and stitch in a same way.






17
CHAPTER 3
COLLARS & SLEEVES
COLLARS
A collar is an added piece of fabric that surrounds the neck and is attached to the neck line of the
garment. Collars may be soft or stiff and may be for only decorative purpose, such as collars made by
embroidered fabric or by lace. There are varieties of collars attached to various garments. To cut a collar
piece for a particular garment basic bodice of that size is required as half-front and half-back.
To cut a collar for any garment, place front and back part of bodice on a paper, by matching neck point.
Draw the outline of neck line and remove the bodice. Mark the points as per the pattern of the collar and
draw the shape of the collar. Cut the paper pattern. Fold the fabric lengthwise for the continuous piece of
collar and place the paper pattern on the folded fabric and fix with pins. Draw inner and outer line of the
collar. Cut two piece of collar of the fabric. Separate the collar piece either on front or back for opening
in the garment, as per pattern.

Draw neckline on paper pattern. Draw collar pattern. Place paper pattern on fabric.
Finish opening part of the garment, before stitching the collar. Place two piece of collar by facing right
side, keep in and keep wrong side on top. Stitch on outer shape of the collar along with two ends to join
together. Turn and press the seam. Mark a small notch on either centre front or back, on both collar and
bodice. Cut a fabric strip as the neck line shape or bias. Place the collar on right side of the garment by
matching notch mark and tack with the hand needle. Fold the edge of the fabric strip for finishing and
stitch together joining garment with collar and finish the other end same way. Press the seam and turn
the fabric strip on wrong side and hem neatly. This method is applicable only for flatten collars.

PETER PAN COLLAR
Place front and back bodice blocks by matching neck point to shoulder line, opposite to each other as
shown in figure. Draw out line. Mark collar width and shape. Draw collar pattern as per design and cut
paper pattern. Place this paper pattern on fabric and mark seam allowance all around. On paper pattern
seam allowance is not counted. Cut the two layer of fabric and one piece of facing for collar. Peter Pan
collar is popular for womens shirts and frocks.


18

Peter-Pan-Collar

BERTHA COLLAR
Place the front and back bodice block as same for the peter-pan-collar and draw an outline. Bertha collar
has lowered neck line and it extends beyond shoulder. Draw lowered neck line for both front and back
and from neck point mark width of the collar and draw the shape with extension of shoulder by 3/4
th
to
1.
. Bertha Collar

CAP COLLAR
Cap collar is wider than bertha collar and goes beyond the shoulder line. Place front and back bodice
block and draw neck line and from neck point mark the width of the collar 6:5 to 7inches. Draw
Shape the collar out line with extension on shoulder. Cap collar looks good on frocks and dresses.



Cap Collar


19

SCALLOP COLLAR
Scallop collar is a type of decorative collar for frocks. First draw the cap collar as per instructions and
then decide the one or two scallop point and redraw the collar shape.

Scallop Collar
BISHOP COLLAR
Bishop collar is V shape on front and curved shape on back and extended on shoulder as cap collar.
Draw front and back outline and draw back collar shape curved as cap collar. On front collar width is
extended up to waist line at the centre front. As per name this collar is popular for the bishops dress.

Bishop Collar
SQUARE COLLAR
Draw front and back bodice block and mark the width of the collar from neck point. Draw square shape
as per the extension on shoulder line. Back collar width looks wider than front because of the short neck
depth. The neck shape of the garment may be curved or square as per the collar shape.




20
SAILOR COLLAR
Sailor collar is wide square shape on back and pointed on front. After drawing front and back draw
square shape for back. On centre front line mark the point for the width of the collar. Join this point to
neck point and shoulder point as shown in figure. This collar has triangle shape on front.


Sailor Collar

SHIRT COLLAR
Shirt collar is convertible collar. This collar is cut on straight grain of a fabric. The neck line is raised at
the centre front by 3/4
th
to 1 inch as per size of the shirt. The neck line is raised at the centre back by .
The raised neck line is then measured from the centre back to centre front line.
Draw a vertical line A-B as per width of the collar.
A-D & B-C = the neck circumference.
D-C = A-B
E = Centre point of A-D & F = Centre point of B-C.
C-G and D-H = inch upside.
Join F and G. Join E to H with the extension of 1:5 to 2 up to point I.
The stand of the shirt collar
Draw A-B as per the width of the stand which is less than the collar width.
B-C & A-D = same as collar.
C-D = A-B.
C-G and D-H = upside.
Extend F and G up to J by and extend E-H up to I by same.
Draw curve on H-I-J.
After drawing the collar and stand draft draw extra all around for seam allowance.

Shirt collar Stand Collar & stand joining
Cut two piece of collar and two piece of stand of fabric and one piece each of facing or buckram without
seam allowance. Place two piece of collar, facing right side to each other. On wrong and top side, stitch
on A, B, C and D. Turn and press the seam. Insert buckram piece inside the collar and stitch on edges on
A, B, C and D. Stitch one parallel line to edges as per shape of the collar. Place the stand same way as


21
collar, place collar on B-D part in between a piece of stand and another piece of stand with buckram. Fix
with pins or tack with hand needle. Stitch together. Turn and press the seam and stitch on edges in a
same way as in collar. Mark a small notch on the centre of the back neck of shirt and centre of the collar.
Fold edges of one piece of stand and stitch. Place the collar on shirt by matching notch mark. Stitch
from front to back and come back on front other side. Press the seam and by keeping inside the seam,
lap the other finished edge on and stitch. Finish both the end neatly by machine.
MANDARIN COLLAR
Draw a rectangle box ABCD.
F = centre of B-C and E = centre of A-D.
C-G and D-H = upside.
H-I = inside. Join E-G and F-I-G.
Draw curve on I.
Place two piece of collar facing right side each other and join on A, E, H and G. Turn and press the
seam. Mark a small notch at the centre of the collar and on back neck of shirt. Finish edges of one piece
of collar by folding edges and stitch. Match the notch mark of collar and shirt and fix with pins. Stitch
collar piece with neck line from front to back and come back to front. Press the seam and by keeping
inside, place the finished edge of collar and stitch to finish the collar.
Mandarin collar is generally worn by Chinese officials with rich embroidered. This type
of collar used for Jackets, Blouses and Gents kurta.

THE SHAWL COLLAR
Shawl collar is for coat and dress which turned down to fall a continuous line around the back of the
neck to the front.
Draw a vertical line A-B.
Place the centre front of the bodice block on the line A B and mark the outline.
Extend the shoulder line and the centre front line and mark the point of inter section as A,
Mark a point C above A, Join C-F.
Draw a line C D at right angle to C F and equal to the length of the back neckline.
Complete the rectangle FCDE making DE=CF and CD=EF.
The line DE is the centre back of the collar.
DE is attached by a seam to the corresponding line on the second front section.
Mark a line at a distance of 1, parallel to the centre front line AB.
From the point D shape out as desired and curve down to the extended centre front line as illustrated.
THE SHAWL COLLAR



22

SLEEVES
PLAIN SLEEVES
Plain sleeves are attached to any garment with matching to centre point of sleeve and shoulder joining.
The length of the sleeve may vary as short, medium or full length. 0-1 is the short or medium length of
the sleeve plus fold as per choice. 0-2 is the 1/4
th
of the chest as the width of the sleeve. Draw a box by
joining 0-1-3 & 2. 4 are the center point of 0-2 and 5 is the center point of 0-4. Measure 2-6 same as 2-4.
Measure on 5-7, on 5-8 and 1.25 on 8-9. Join 6-8-7 & 0 for the back armhole shape and join 6-9
& 7 for the front armhole shape. Measure 1-10 as half of the bottom girth of the sleeve with seam
allowance. Join 6-10 as per shape. To cut follow back armhole shape first then open the sleeve and cut
front armhole shape on one side of the sleeve.


To stitch, first finish the bottom of the sleeves by hemming or by machine. Mark a small notch at the
centre of the armhole of the sleeves. Match this notch with the shoulder joining of the bodice and
simultaneously match the back and front armhole of sleeves and bodice. Tack the sleeve with hand
needle and machine.
PUFF SLEEVES
There are three types of puff sleeves. In the first type of sleeve puffs are on both side means on the
shoulder and on the centre of the sleeve bottom. There are puffs only on shoulder or top of the arm is the
second type of puff sleeve. In the third type of sleeve puffs are only on sleeve bottom. To draw the
pattern of puff sleeve, first draw plain sleeve draft and then apply slash method to add puffs on shoulder
or on bottom of the sleeves. For puff on both sides separate all the segments of plain sleeve and place
them in equal distance according to the requirement of the puffs, redraw the out line of sleeve. If puff is
required only on one part then dont slash completely, but keeping other side joint spread the slash part
according to the requirement of puffs.
Puff sleeves are always popular for frocks, blouses and womens shirts.

Both side puff sleeve by slash method Puff on armhole Puff on sleeve bottom
To stitch puff sleeve stitch gathers on decided area of armhole and bottom. Adjust gathers at the center
and place a strip of fabric on the right side of the sleeve bottom as per the measurement of the bottom


23
girth plus seam allowance. Press the seam and turn the strip towards wrong side and finish with machine
stitch or hem. Place side of the sleeve on the side of the body of the garment by matching of the armhole
of front or back shape and start stitching towards center. Adjust gathers at the center of the armhole by
keeping other sides of sleeve and body equal.
THREE FOURTH LENGTH OF SLEEVE
To draw the pattern for the three fourth length of the sleeve measure the length 0-1 from shoulder point
to down the elbow. Rest of the sleeve shape is to be drawn as plain sleeve only bottom of the sleeve will
be half girth measurement of the elbow with seam allowance.

VARIOUS TYPES OF FULL LENGTH SLEEVES
0-1 is the full length of the sleeve with bottom fold. 0-2 is 1/4
th
of the chest for the width of the sleeve.
Draw a box by joining 0-1-3 & 2. 4 are the center point of 0-2 and 5 is the center point of 0-4. Measure
on 5-8, on 4-6 and 1.25 on 6-7. Measure 2-9 same as 2-4. Join 9-6-5 & 0 for the back armhole
shape and join 9-7-8 for the front armhole shape. 0-10 is same as 2-9. Join 9-10 as a straight line. Mark
11 as the center point of 1-10. Measure 11-12 as the half of the elbow girth with half inch of seam
allowance. Measure half inch less than 11-12 on 1-13 for loose bottom or half of the bottom girth of the
sleeve with seam allowance for fitted bottom. Join 9-13 as per shape. To cut follow back armhole shape
first then open the sleeve and cut front armhole shape on one side of the sleeve. Stitching method of this
plain full sleeve is same as plain sleeve.
Full sleeve with puff on shoulder
To get puff on the shoulder on full sleeve length extend 0-14 by 2.5 upside. Redraw the armhole shapes
with extended line and shape and cut. Stitch gather on 4-14 and adjust on shoulder while joining with
the armhole shape of the garment.







24
Full sleeve with puff on shoulder and gathers on bottom
To get gather on bottom also measure 3-13 just half inch for shape and join 9-13. Stitches gather on 1-13
and adjust at the center to get perfect shape. Finish bottom of the sleeve with the strip of the fabric.
Gathers on shoulder and bottom
Extend 0-A and 1-B by 2 to 2.5 for the gather. Rest of the sleeve drafting is same as plain full sleeve.
Stitches gather on extended part of the sleeve and adjust at the center of the sleeve. Finish bottom of the
sleeve and join with the armhole of the garment.
Sleeve with cuff at bottom
This type of the sleeve is generally stitched for shirts. 0-1 is the full length of the sleeve less cuff length
by 2.5 to 3. Rest of the sleeve is drawn same as plain sleeve. Measure 3-13 just half inch for shape and
join 9-13. 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the cuff. 0-2 & 1-3 is of the wrist girth with additional 1 for
loose and for seam allowance. Measure on 3-4 and 3-5 for shape and draw a small curve shape
on it. Measure all around 5-1-0-2 & 4 for seam allowance. Cut one buckram piece of cuff without
adding seam allowance of . Cut two layers of cuff on fabric. Place both the layers by facing right side
in and place buckram piece on it and fix with alpines. Stitch from the edges on 0-1-5-4-2. Turn and
press the seam. Top stitch all around from the edges. Fold of one layer of the cuff on wrong side
and stitch. Cut a small notch at the center of the sleeve cuff. Before joining cuff with the sleeve finish
the opening of the sleeve by stitching placket. Now match unstitched layer of 0-2 open of the cuff with
the sleeve bottom by adjusting extra fabric of sleeve as a pleat by facing towards open of the cuff. Press
the seam and place stitched layer of cuff on the seam by keeping seam inside and stitch on edges.
BELL SLEEVE
Bell sleeve is as per name from top arm to bottom, bell shaped. This sleeve is flared on bottom and
looks good with soft fabric. The drape of the sleeves comes perfect if cut on bias fabric.

Bell sleeve on bias fabric
BISHOP SLEEVE
Bishop sleeve is a type of long sleeve for dress or blouse. It is full below elbow and gathered at wrist.

LEGO MUTTON SLEEVE
This a tight fitting sleeve from wrist to elbow. The lego mutton sleeves balloons out from the elbow to
the top of the arm where it is gathered or pleated into the bodice of the dress.


25

KIMONO SLEEVE
Kimono sleeve has extra large sleeve panel which is set into a deep armhole that reaches from shoulder
to waist. The kimono sleeve is basically taken from traditional costume from Japan and Singapore. It has
been used by the designers for coats, jackets and sweaters.

RAGLON SLEEVE
It is a sleeve named after Lord Raglan, British Commander during the World War I. The sleeve extends
from the neck line to the waist. It is joined to bodice of a coat or dress by disregard seams from the neck
to under the arms allowing for greater mobility of the arms and the body. Raglan sleeves are used for
sports wear also.

DOLMAN SLEEVE
This sleeve is a part of a body cuts as an extension of the bodice of a dress, blouse or jacket. This is
designed without socket from the shoulder, thus creating a deep wide armhole that reaches till the waist.
Dolman sleeves are used for knit wear and sports wear.



26
SLEEVE CUFFS
Sleeves have to be finished at the lower end by hemming or with a cuff. Sleeve cuff is a band with or
without ruffles attached to the bottom end of the sleeves. Cuffs are of various types such as lapped cuff,
shirt cuff, band cuff or French cuff. Some cuffs are decorated with ruffles or lace for the womens
garments. Shirt cuff is for the formal type of shirts. The lapped cuff has one end lapped over the other
end with the opening along the seam line.

Lapped cuff Shirt cuff*
BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUE
If any dart is there, stitch the darts on front or back parts. If there are two or more pieces for the front
part according to the design join them to complete a part. Finish the opening of the garment. Join front
and back shoulder. Finish the neckline with facing or collar. Finish the bottom of the sleeves. Match the
centre notch of the sleeve with the shoulder seam of the body. If gather is there on shoulder adjust it and
tack with hand needle or pin. Join sleeves with body. Mark side seam line and machine. Fold the
hemline and stitch. Finish the garment with fasteners.
For the leg wear finish the front open with zip attachment. Place pockets and stitch. Join front and back
sides together. Fold the bottom part of the leg and stitch. Stitch on inner leg parts. Finish the crochet
seam. Stitch waist belt with garment. Finish the garment with hooks on waist.





















27
CHAPTER 4
BASIC ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
Lines, colour, shapes, textures, and value are the basic elements of design. These elements plays an
important role to design or to select a particular garment for a particular person. Most individuals do not
have perfect, well proportionate figures and clothing style have the advantage of being able to hide those
features that are unattractive and also to form new lines that give a graceful and pleasing appearance.
Elements of the design are the tools used by clothing manufacturers when a garment is designed and
constructed to enhance the appearance of a person.
LINES
The lines have characteristics that symbolize dignity, movements, waves and repose etc. An individual
can project different faces of the personality by selecting appropriate lines to suit the mood and the
occasion. Lines, which fall within the garment, are darts, tucks, pleats, colour contrasts and hemline.
These lines are generally matched to the dress silhouette. A silhouette refers to the outer shape of the
garment. A narrow silhouette gives height to the person and a wider silhouette make a person look
shorter. Triangular silhouette are broad on the top and narrow at hem line, resembling a triangle.
Selection of fabric also affects the silhouette of a garment. For example, a soft fabric with lots of gathers
frills or lace in the design makes a dominant silhouette.
A line with a designing effect, adds another dimension to silhouette. When skillfully used they create a
pleasing illusion or dimension. The visual effect of lines can be varied depending on the width of each
line and the distance between two adjacent lines. Close vertical lines adds height to the figure, where as
wider lines tends to cut the height of a figure. Horizontal lines denote flexibility and informality.
Diagonal lines with a small angle, creates a falling of fullness and with a wider angle gives the
impression of broadness. Curved lines are considered graceful and feminine; those in a diagonal
direction are the most graceful and can be seen in the soft folds of material in a draped dress or a ruffled
collar.
COLOUR
Colour plays an important role in the selection of garment. Shades worn, ones taste and discretion can
add or reduce to ones personality. It is therefore necessary to understand the quality of warm or coolness
of a colour, which reflects and how they affect the temperament and appearance of the garment one
wears. Colour adds rest, stimulates moods, creates pleasantness and helps to relax.
Light colours add width to figure and dark colours make one look slimmer. If a person have very fare
complexion, should avoid very light colours and a person with dark complexion should not go for dark
colour garments. Shorter height person should avoid bright colours, and should select the fabric with
vertical stripes or small prints.
The colours of spectrum are called hue. Red, green, violet are the colour of rainbow are called as hue.
Brightness is the value of colour. Black has the lowest value of brightness and white has the highest
value of brightness. When any colour is diluted with black is called shades and opposite to that if any
colour is diluted with white it is called tints.
There are three primary colours red, blue and yellow. Black and white is neutral colours. By mixing two
primaries one secondary colour can be obtained. For example red + white = pink, yellow + blue = green.
Complementary colour is the result of mixing one primary colour with one secondary colour.
Choice of colour for the garment depends not only on figure but purpose, season and fashion also. One
should avoid bright colours for the formal wear and for the party wear dull colours should not select.


28
Warm colours are suitable for the winter season and cool colours are good for summer season. Thus
choice of colour for a garment not only depends upon personality but also on the season and occasion.
SHAPE/FORM
Form is the shape and structure of a garment. Shape is two dimensional and appears flat; form is three
dimensional with length, width and depth. (A circle is a shape; a ball is a form). Shapes define a figure,
create ground relationships and relate forms and figures.
TEXTURE
Texture is the surface quality of a fabric or material. It is how something feels when it is touched or
looks like it would feel if touched; rough, smooth, soft or hard.
VALUE
Value is the relative degree of lightness and darkness in a design element. Line, colour, texture and
shape all need value contrast in order to be seen. Value is used to describe objects, shapes and space.
PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
Principles of design are how we use the tools to create looks (whole outfits, accessories, shoes etc.) that
are different or unique.
PROPORTION
The relative length of two parts of a garment termed as proportion. The placement of waist line, yoke
line or the hemline divides the length of a dress approximately so that it appear pleasingly proportionate
to the persons height and to the measurement from waist to ankle. The size of the collar, buttons and
pockets and the width of the belt and cuff also can affect the appearance; therefore these should be
proportionate to the size of the wearer.
BALANCE
Details to maintain a feeling of equal weight or attraction from side to side, front to back and top to
bottom is termed as balance. There are basically two approaches to balance.
FORMAL BALANCE: A formal balance is achieved through replacement of identical details at equal or
opposite distance from vertical line at the centre, or a horizontal line at the waist shows a formal
balance.
INFORMAL BALANCE: When the details on the garment are not identical to each other, it obtains an
informal balance, because a diagonal line divides the garment in two pieces which are not even.
RHYTHM
Rhythm means the repeat use of lines or shape to create a pattern. For example, the colour of a collar or
yoke can be repeated in the skirt in the form of pocket, a patch design or a frill. The shape of the neck or
collar can also be repeated in any other decorative features such as flaps or pockets. This recurrence of a
feature or colour in the dress arrangement gives it an acceptable, harmonious rhythm.
EMPHASIS
Emphasis is a single point of interest referred to the dominants of one part with the supporting of others.
A good design feature which is the centre of interest of focal point by the other features supported. It
should have the effect of leading the eye to the same attracting features. For example, a plain kurta with
an attractive hand embroidered yoke. If the fabric is elaborate then style should be simple and if the
fabric is plain then the silhouette can be elaborate.




29

UNITY
Unity includes clothing, all accessories and you. Lines and shapes that repeat each other show unity.
Colours that have a common hue create unity (a soft texture with curved lines). Try to create a certain
mood or theme---sporty, tailored, dramatic, casual- and keep the clothing and accessories in harmony
with your colouring, your build and your age. Then youll have unity.
CORRECT STYLE FOR CORRECT FIGURE
The average figure can carry off most styles without any difficulty, but those with figure irregularities
have to adapt fashion style to hide or make the irregularities seem less obvious.
A person with short neck should avoid style with collars and ruffles neck lines. Low cut neck line dress
will appear the neck line longer. Opposite to that high collars and standing ruffles are suitable for a
figure with long neck line.
Use styles that do not emphasize the shoulder width such as kimono sleeves or raglan sleeves. Narrow
shoulder figure should go for dropped shoulder style or shoulder pads can help.
Loose flowing style from the shoulder, cut in panels or on the bias, is suitable for the large bust lines.
A person with a high waist or a prominent waistline should avoid the style that emphasizes the waist.
Loose and long T- shirts or blouses are more suitable for high waist line figure. For those who have
narrow and attractive waist line, styles such as shirring, and belts are appealing.
Trousers and tight skirts should avoid the figure with large hips. They can choose the dress flared from
waist line.
ACCESSORIES
There are three types of accessories. Embroidery, show buttons and laces are the accessories, which
enhances the garment. Some accessories wear by figure or body such as jewelry, shoes or make-up and
hair style also includes in this category. Purse or umbrella is the third type of accessories which is
carrying by model.





















30
CHAPTER 5
KNOWLEDGE OF SEWING MACHINE
To work with sewing machine one should know the system operation and maintained of it. Today there
are varieties of sewing machines are available in market. In previous days simple machines were there
with selected functions, but now a days technology is so developed so there are multi-functional
machines are available with electric or motor operated. Now just by changing knob different stitches can
be done. To know about the function of sewing machine, knowledge of different parts is necessary. First
we will discuss about the common parts of a sewing machine, which are present in both, simple and
multi-functional sewing machine. Though there are some special parts in the multi functional machine
for different functions.

ORDINARY SEWING MACHINE

1- PRESSURE REGULATING SCREW
This screw should be tightened while working with finer fabric like organdie and chiffon and to be
loosened for the thick fabric like denim.
2- TAKE UP LEVER
It controls the flow and movement of the spool thread.
3- SPOOL THREAD TENSION DIAL
It can be turned to the right to left or right to left to increase or decrease the tension of the spool thread.
4- NEEDLE CLAMP
It holds the needle in position.
5- PRESSURE FOOT
It holds the fabric in place and under it feed dog feeds the fabric during the sewing process.
6- NEEDLE PLATE
Needle plate has guidelines to help to keep seams straight.
7- SLIDE PLATE
The slide plate slides out side to load or unload bobbin case. Some time it can be flips up.
8- STITCH REGULATOR LEVER
It regulates the required stitch length. At the top position stitch length is larger and reverse for small
stitches. Large stitches are for thick fabric and small stitches for sheer fabrics.
9- BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE


31
It holds the bobbin for winding the thread.
10- SPOOL PIN
Spool pins are for thread spool to rotate freely during sewing.
11- BALANCE WHEEL
To start the machine this balance wheel rotates. First this rotation is done by hand and then
simultaneously it continues with handle or by foot paddle. To stop machine, balance wheel should be
stopped by hand.
12- BOBBIN WINDER THREAD GUIDE
It regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.


MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SEWING MACHINE

There are some special knobs for different functions in this machine.
13- STITCH WIDTH SELECTOR
This regulator is to select the width of plain stitch and zigzag stitches.
14- NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR
This selector places needle position right, left or at the centre as per requirement.
15- DROP FEED CONTROL
This is used for free-motion work. It drops feed below needle plate, so you control the feeding of the
fabric.
At present there are sewing machines available with advance technology. No error threading process,
surefit bobbin and stay bright led light are some features available in the machine. Quilting, embroidery,
button holing, button stitching, zip attachment, zigzag stitching can be done in a very easy manner.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE SEWING MACHINE
BALANCE WHEEL STOP MOTION
This device allows the balance wheel to run free, so that bobbins may be wound and the correct method
of threading acquired, without operating the stitching mechanism. To loosen the wheel, hold it with the
left hand and with the right hand turn the stop motion screw round towards you.




32
TO OPERATE THE TREADLE MACHINE
After loosening the balance wheel, place both feet upon the treadle and run the balance wheel round
towards you, at the same time allow the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of the treadle.
Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired and you are able to work the treadle
so that you can re-start the machine without the balance wheel turning in the wrong direction.
When familiar with the working movement, tighten the balance wheel by turning the stop motion screw
away from you, and place a piece of material under the pressure foot. Lower the latter by means of the
lifter and again work the machine, without its being threaded, until you are accustomed to guiding the
material.
TO OPERATE MULTI FUNCTIONAL MACHINE WITH ELECTRIC MOTOR
Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and frequency indicated on the motor are
within the range of marked on the electric meter installed by your company.
Push the machine plug into the receptacle at the right end of the machine. Then connect the power-line
plug to your electrical outlet. To start the machine press, the pedal of the speed controller slowly. In the
beginning dont press much, because gradually you can control the speed of the machine by practicing.
The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.
TO SET THE NEEDLE
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the thumb screw. Hold the needle with the left hand
and, with its flat side to the right, insert it into the needle clamp as far as it will go, then re-tighten the
thumb screw.

TO SET THE NEEDLE
TO THREAD THE NEEDLE
Turn the balance wheel until the lever is at its highest. Place a reel of thread on the spool pin (1) on top
of the machine and pass the thread through the notch (2), downward between the tension discs (3 & 4)
from the back up over the thread guard from behind, into the loop of the spring, up and through the hole
in the end of the lever (5) from the back, down into the guide (6), and from left to right through the eye
of the needle (7). Draw about three inches of thread through the eye of the needle with which to
commence sewing.



33
TO THREAD THE NEEDLE
TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN
Turn the Balance Wheel towards you until the take-up lever is at its highest point. Draw opens the slide
in the bed of the machine and, with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, opens the latch and
withdraws the Bobbin Case. While the latch is held open, the bobbin is retained in its case. On releasing
the latch and turning the case downward the bobbin will drop out.

REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE
TO WIND THE BOBBIN
Loosen the Balance Wheel and place a reel of thread on the lower spool pin. Pass the thread under the
Bobbin Winder Tension Bracket and onto the bobbin, placed on the Bobbin Winder Spindle. Now pass
the thread through a hole in the left disc of the bobbin from the inside. Press the lever where marked,
Hold the free end of the thread, and proceed to wind. Then after a few turns of the Balance Wheel,
Break off the end of the thread and again operate the machine as when sewing, until the bobbin is filled.
The winder stops automatically when the bobbin is full.


TO WIND THE BOBBIN
TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand with the thread leading from the
right to left, as shown in Fig. With the left hand hold the bobbin case and place the bobbin into it. With
the right hand draw the thread into the slit down in the edge of the Bobbin Case as shown in Fig.

STEP-1 STEP-2 STEP-3


34
TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE
TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE
After threading the bobbin case, hold its latch between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and,
with its position finger opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle race, replace it on the centre stud of
the shuttle. Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove near
the end of the stud. Allow the end of the thread to hang free and close the slide in the machine bed.

TO PREPARE FOR SEWING
With the left hand hold the end of the needle thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn
the balance wheel over towards you for the needle to move down and up again to its highest point. Pull
the thread that you are holding and the under thread will brought up with through the hole in the throat
plate. Place both ends of thread under and to the back of the pressure foot.

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
TO COMMENCE SEWING
Place the material to be sewn beneath foot, lower the latter and commence sewing by turning the
balance wheel round towards you.
TO REMOVE THE MATERIAL
Raise the take-up lever to its highest and lift the presser foot. Move the material back and to the left and
sever the threads by passing them over the thread cutter above the presser foot. Leave a few inches of
thread under and at the back of the presser foot.
TO REGULATE THE TENSIONS
For ordinary stitching, the tension on the upper and under threads should be equal so as to interlock both
threads in the centre of the work.
If either tension is stronger than the other, imperfect stitching will be the result, thus
(a) Fine fabrics require a light tension, while heavy materials want more tension to obtain a perfect a
stitch. (b) The tension on the needle thread should be regulated only when the presser foot is down.
(c) A correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread. (d) Always


35
use thread with corresponding size of needle. (e) The length of stitch can be altered by loosening the
thumb screw and moving it upwards to lengthen, or downwards to shorten the stitch. Then tighten
the screw.
TO CHANGE THE PRESSURE ON MATERIAL
For ordinary family sewing it is seldom necessary to change the pressure on the material. If sewing fine
silk or flimsy material, relieve the pressure by giving the thumb screw two or three turns upwards. To
increase the pressure gives the thumb screw a few twists downwards.
MACHINE FAULTS AND RECTIFICATION
MACHINE WORKING HEAVILY
If the machine runs hard after being idle, oil with paraffin. Then run rapidly, wipe clean and oil with
sewing machine oil.
THE BELT
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip. If too loose, shorten and rejoin.
NEEDLE BREAKING
Check that the needle is not bent, the upper tension is not too tight, and the pressure foot or attachments
are securely fastened. Avoid pulling the material and do not sew heavy seams or thick goods with too
fine a needle.
THREAD BREAKING
If the needle breaks, check that (i) The machine is properly threaded (ii) The upper tension is not too
tight (iii) The needle is not bent, blunt or set correctly (iv) The thread is not too coarse for the needle (v)
The thread take-up spring is not broken.
If the under thread break, loosen the under tension and see that the bobbin case and the area under the
tension spring are free from fluff.
Always follow the booklet with the machine for the correct size of needle for the various types of
fabrics.
SKIPPING OF STITCHES
Check that the needle is correctly set, is not blunt, bent or too fine for the thread.
STITCHING LOOPING
Check that the spring is not broken, that the upper and under tensions are equal, that both bobbin case
and the needle are properly threaded, that the thread is of good quality and of correct size for the needle.
MATERIAL PUCKERING
See the both tensions are equal and needle point is not bent.
CLEANING AND OILING THE MACHINE
To ensure smooth running, it is essential that the machine be cleaned at frequent intervals and oiled
regularly at all points of the Arm and the Bed where lubrication is required.
For cleaning, use kerosene and a small stiff brush, and soft clean rags for wiping the machine.
For oiling, use branded good machine oil. Never use vegetable oils since these clog the machine.
Squirt oil freely into all oil holes and wherever one surface rubs against or turns within another. Never
oil the tensions.
Run the machine to work the oil thoroughly into all the bearings. When the oiling is completed, wipe all
the excess oil from all parts of the machine. This excess oil collects dust. And too much oil on the
shuttle race or needle can cause skipped stitches.
Regular oiling is must for the smooth running of sewing machine. For later oiling, one drop of oil in
each bearing and oil hole is enough. It is a good practice to oil the machine after each days work or
after 8 to 10 hours of use. Oil occasionally, whether the machine is used or not, to keep the oil from
drying and gumming.


36
RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES FOR DIFFERENT FABRICS
SIZES OF NEEDLE TYPES OF FABRICS
No. 9 very thin silk, muslin, cambric, light weight delicate fabrics.
No.11 fine calicos, linens, shirtings, fine silk.
No.14 shirtings, sheetings, bleached calicos, silk and general domestic goods, light
Woolen goods and all classes of general work.
No.16 All kinds of heavy calicos, drill, woolen goods etc.
No.18 tacking, heavy woolens, trousers, boys clothing, corsets, cloaks mantis,
Heavy coats and heavy clothing generally.
No.19 or 21 Bags, coarse cloths, canvas, duck, heavy goods of any texture.



























37
CHAPTER 6
NECESSARY EUIPMENT FOR SEWING AND ABOUT
FABRICS
To stitch any garment some necessary equipment are needed to obtain good result. Before starting to cut
and stitch any dress you should check that all the necessary tools and equipments are available or not.
SEWING MACHINE
There are so many models of sewing machines are available in the market. Always purchase that sewing
machine which is suitable for your requirement, usage and convenient to operate.
MEASURING TAPE
In measuring tape both inches and centimeter, marks are given so can be used according to convenience.
Measuring tape is used to measure the fabric and the body measurement.

TAILORS CHALK
Marking chalks is available in different color so that marking with contrast color of chalk is visible
easily. This chalk is to mark on the fabric according to dress pattern, darts and seam lines.

RULERS
To draw vertical or horizontal lines, rulers are useful. Curved ruler is to shape for trouser and skirts.

PINS
Pins are useful to place paper pattern on fabric so that marking becomes easy.

PIN CUSHIONS
Pin cushions can be made at home by soft fabric and filling with soft stuff. Pin cushions are very
necessary to avoid pins to poke and keep away from children.



38
SCISSORS
There are tailors scissors are available in market. Light weight, pointed and sharp scissor is good for
fabric cutting.

CLIPPERS
Clippers are used for clipping threads and for making notches or slashes on the fabric.

AWL
It is a small, sharp and pointed tool used to punch small, rounded holes for making on paper or leather.

SEAM RIPPERS
Seam rippers are for picking seams and to cut buttonholes.

COLOURED PENCILS
Coloured pencils are used to mark darts and shapes as marking with chalk goes off easily.

MACHINE NEEDLES
Machine needle of various sizes, are necessary to use according to different types of fabrics.

MACHINE THREADS
Cotton threads are suitable for different kind of fabrics. The weight of the fabric determines the size of
the thread to be used. For terry cotton and other synthetic fabrics, spun polyester thread may be used.
When a perfect match of thread is not available, a darker shade should be used.


HAND SEWING NEEDLE
There are many varieties of hand needle having a different use. Crewels are embroidery needles. Sharps
are shorter than embroidery needles and are used for normal hand sewing. Betweens and Blunts are
shorter than sharps and used by tailors to do fine work on heavy fabrics. Straws or Milliners are longer


39
than sharps and are used for darning or basting. Tapestry Needle is thick, with large eyes and rounded
tips and is used to embroider with wool. Chenille is the same as the tapestry needle except that the tip is
pointed. This is used for doing heavy embroidery work on closely woven fabric. Bodkins are large
needles with large eyes and are used for threading elastic or ribbon through casings. The rounded tip is
used for pushing out the stitched corners of collars. An ideal needle size for hand sewing is Pony-Crewel
No. 9 because of its length and fineness. It has a large eye for easy threading.

THIMBLE
The thimble is worn on the middle finger and is used to protect the finger while pushing the needle
through thick fabrics. Metal thimbles are ideal.

TRACING WHEEL
Tracing wheel is used to trace the marks of darts and seam at correct place. Place the carbon paper in
between the paper pattern and fabric and run tracing wheels over the markings to get marking on fabric.


FRENCH CURVES
French curves are used to draw curves while drafting designs. They are made of plastic and are available
in different sizes.

IRON
A good light weight iron is preferred to remove wrinkles on fabric before cutting.





40
KNOWLEDGE OF FABRICS
Fabrics are essential as other necessities of life. These are used in every moment of our life.
Simultaneously, these serve various purposes, like comfort, design, style, warmth and of course cover.
There are varieties of fabrics available with different characteristics. The characteristics of fabric depend
upon the type of fiber, thickness, weaves and finishes applied. There are some fabrics natural or
synthetics. Natural fabrics are those which are created from the fibers of animals coats, the cocoons of
silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves and stems. It is breathable and never causes rashes apart from being
soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from Ultra
Violet light and there is no warming until the material looses its tensile strength. Common natural
fabrics are cotton, silk, wool, leather, hemp, coir, jute and linen.
COTTON
It is versatile with natural comfort and durability. The use of cotton fabric dates back to 3000 B.C. It is
used as garments, home furnishing, and industrial cloths. It is soft with good strength and drapes well.
Fabrics made of cotton have a cool, soft and comfortable feel.
SILK
It is a high grade fabric with weather fabric quality. It is used as expensive dresses and home
furnishings. The fabric made of silk will have a soft and smooth feel to it. The various textures of silk
fabrics can range between slight crinkled texture, crepe like texture, natural colored, textured silk,
lustrous shine with creepy texture and many more. Silk discovered in China during 2640 B C and is still
the leading producer in the world.
WOOL
Wool means warmth, softness and strength. It is resistant to wrinkle dirt and wear and tear. Wool as a
clothing was discovered some twelve thousand years ago. Today, it is obtained from sheep, goat,
Angora goat and Angora rabbit and camel. The wool fabrics can range between fuzzy or hard texture or
interwoven with silver dyed multi color yarns which give the fabric lustrous finish.
LEATHER
Leather is firm, soft, elastic and weather friendly. Commercially it is obtained from cattle, calf, goat,
sheep, lamb, horse, pig, kangaroo, deer, reptile, seal and walrus. The major exporters of goatskin leather
in the world are India, China and Pakistan. Leather is an elegant and expensive fabric and the texture of
it makes each and every fabric unique and fashionable item. Due to their shiny and polished look they
are highly demanded fabrics.
HEMP
The warmth, softness and durability of hemp fabric are rarely found in any other fabrics. It is very
versatile with UV protective and insulative quality. It is used as apparel, accessories, shoes, furniture,
and home furnishing. It is obtained from stems of plant. The finest comes from Italy and the leading
producer is China.
COIR
It is known for its resilience and durable quality. It is the perfect fabric for controlling soil erosion. In
horticulture, coir fabric is used as a substitute for peat because it is bacteria free and free from fungal
spores. It is an environmental friendly fabric and fully biodegradable.
JUTE
It is eco-friendly with good strength and durability. It is widely used as bags and sacks. Fashionable
cloths, home furnishing and fashion accessories are some of the innovation of jute. India is leading jute
manufacturer in the world.




41
LINEN
It is the fabric of luxury. Lustrous, beautiful and elegant are some of qualities of it. It is antibacterial and
antifungal with a property of UV protection. It is being used for more than 10,000 years. Egyptians
made extensive use of linen. It is obtained from flax plant.
SYNTHETIC FABRICS
Synthetic fabric made from chemicals, changed the textile industry. These fabrics are made from fibers
which are either completely made from inorganic materials or organic materials combined with
chemicals. Synthetic fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produces and
finished. Some are light weight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast dying. Few
are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics some are very strong and tough. Many synthetic
fabrics have found their way into trendy fashion garments. These fabrics come in brighter color and are
more economical. In industrial uses, synthetic fabrics have taken its place. They have replaced
traditional materials from super-absorbent diapers to artificial organs. Engineered non-woven fabrics are
also found in surgical applications like gowns and apparel interfacing. Man made fibers for fabrics was
first experimented in the late 1800s. Du Pont, a chemist, discovered laboratory-synthesizes fiber, nylon.
He transformed common materials like coal, air and water into fibers whose qualities were far better
than natural fibers.
ACETATE
It is an imitation of silk and can withstand mildew, pilling and shrinking.
ACRYLIC
It is an imitation of wool and is resistant to wearing, wrinkling, soiling and fading.
NYLON
It is the strongest upholstery fabric and it does not soil or wrinkle.
LATEX
It has high water proofing and dry cleaning property. It is resistant to heat and light.
POLYSTER
It is used for upholstery and is blended with other fibers to add wrinkle resistant. It eliminates crushing
of napped fabrics and reduces fading.
RAYON
It imitates silk, linen, and cotton and is durable.
SPANDEX
It is known for its shape retention quality and is resistant to dry heat and oil. It is light weight with
comfort and flexibility.
There are so many other characteristics of the fabrics, which makes the differences, such as weaves,
finish and design etc. Fabric weave is the pattern of weave or structure given to the fabric. It is an
ancient textile art and craft, which places two, threads or yarn onto a warp and weft of a loom to produce
a cloth. The woven cloth can be plain, in a single color or in a single pattern, or it may be woven in
decorative or artistic designs. The simple weave is usually done on a dobby looms where as the
complicated patterns are done on the jacquard looms. Plain, satin, twill, basket, jacquard and rib are the
types of weaves in the fabrics. Fabric finish is done according to the need and purpose of the fabric.
With the type of finish, fabric enhances its quality. The fabric gets additional properties with the finish.
After finishing fabric becomes smoother, wrinkle free, can speed moisture evaporation, flame retardant,
soft and adds body to fabric without adding stiffness. There are different types of finishes for the fabrics
like, coated, felted, handmade, knitted, non-woven, stitched and woven. Design in a fabric reflects the
craftsmanship as well as the customs or culture of the wearer. It varies from small geometrical pattern to
batik, dyed, embroidered, painted and print.


42
CHAPTER 7
BODY MEASUREMENT AND TABLE
To sew a garment for a particular person, body measurement is required. Body measurement should be
taken correctly for the correct fitting of a dress. Some measurements are to be taken lengthwise and
some are on girth, or widthwise. Which part of the body measurement should be taken depends upon the
kind of a garment. Measuring tape is the only tool which helps to take the measurement of a body in
inches or in centimeters, because these measurements are written on the both sides of a tape. In below
figure division of inch has given.

1- The length measurement for the garment wearing above the waist should take from the neck
point to upper waist or middle waist or lower waist or as per the style of the garment.
2- Apex point of bust measurement and front neck length measurement also should take from the
neck point.
3- For leg wearing garments such as shorts, skirts and trousers, length measurement is required
from waist to thigh, above knee, knee length, lower knee length or ankle length.
4- Some garments require full length of the body such as, gown, night suit etc.
5- Sleeve length measurement should be taken from highest point of shoulder to short arm length,
middle arm length, elbow length, below elbow length or wrist length.


There is some girth measurements should be taken for the various garments.
1 Shoulder width, on highest point of one arm to other.
2 Neck girth, around the neck.
3 Chest measure, under the arms above the fullest part of the bust.
4 Bust measurement is the fullest part of the bust. Make sure the tape is straight across the back.
5 Waist girth, there are different measurements for upper, middle and lower waist.
6 Hip around, measure around the highest part of the hip.
7 Middle waist measurement, or may be abdomen around for some persons.
8 Thigh girth measurement for trouser.
9 Around knee measurement at the highest part of the knee.
10 On ankle is the measurement for the bottom of the trouser.


43
11 Arm girth measurement on fullness of the arm.
12 Around elbow for the sleeves down to elbow length.
13 Wrist circumference varies from loose to tight or style of the garment.

Always keep in mind that takes measurement correctly because allowances for comfort and seam
can be added in pattern making.
Human figures have different figures and measurements vary from person to person. For example,
childrens figure is different from each other of same age group. Likewise a man or a woman can be
tall or short, fat or thin.
Some girth or width measurements can be calculated from chest or bust size for upper waist wear
garments and some measurements can be calculated from hip size for lower waist wear garments.
GIRTH MEASUREMENTS
NECK = 1/3
rd
of bust + 2 to 2:5
WAIST = Bust-5 to 7
SEAT = Bust + 2 to 4
HALF SHOULDER = 1/6
th
of Bust + 1:5 to 2
FOR TROUSER
SEAT = Chest + 1 or 2
WAIST = Seat 6
BOTTOM = seat 1 or 2
While taking the measurement of a person he or she should stand straight and hold the measuring
tape correctly. Take the measurement of any particular area may be length, width or girth of the
body correctly. One should know the required measurement for the particular garment. For the
infants and childrens measurement, measurement chart can be followed.
Below is the standard measurement table given as per age for infant, children, women and men? The
average body measurements for Babies, Children, Misses, Women and Men, given here are based on the
National Bureau of Standards. These measurements will help you plan garment sizes. Be sure to add


44
ease to make sure that the garment fits comfortably. The measurements are given in inches with
centimeters in parentheses.

Size Newborn Six Months Twelve Months
Chest
to 18
(45.5)
to 20
(51)
to 22
(56)
Waist
18
(45.5)
19
(48)
20
(51)
Hip
19
(48)
20
(51)
21
(53.5)
Back length
6 1/8
(15.5)
6 7/8
(17.5)
7 1/2
(19)
Back width
7 1/4
(18.5)
7 3/4
(19.5)
8 1/4
(21)
One shoulder
2
(5)
2 1/4
(5.5)
2 1/2
(6.5)
Waist to underarm
3
(7.5)
3 3/8
(8.50
3 3/4
(9.5)
Wrist to underarm
6
(15.5)
6 1/2
(16.5)
7 1/2
(19)
Armhole depth
3 1/4
(8)
3 1/2
(9)
3 3/4
(9.5)
Upper arm circumference
6 1/2
(16.5)
7
(18)
7 1/4
(18.5)
Wrist circumference
5
(12.5)
5 1/8
(13)
5 1/8
(13)
Head circumference
15
(38)
15
(38)
16
(40.5)
Children
Size 2 4 6 8 10 12
Chest
21
(53.5)
23
(58.5)
25
(63.5)
27
(68.5)
28 1/2
(72.5)
30
(79)
Waist
20
(51)
21
(53.5)
22
(56)
23
(58.5)
24
(61)
25
(63.5)
Hip
22
(56)
24
(61)
26
(66)
28
(71)
30
(79)
32
(81.5)
Back length 8 1/2 9 1/2 10 1/2 12 1/2 14 15


45
(21.5) (24) (26.5) (31.5) (35.5) (38)
Back width
8 3/4
(22)
9 1/2
(24)
10 1/4
(26)
11
(28)
11 1/2
(29)
12
(30.5)
One shoulder
2 3/4
(7)
3
(7.5)
3 3/8
(8.5)
3 5/8
(9)
3 3/4
(9.5)
4
(10)
Waist to underarm
4
(10)
4
(10)
4 1/2
(11)
6 1/4
(16)
7 1/2
(19)
8
(20.5)
Wrist to underarm
8 1/2
(21.5)
10 1/2
(26.5)
11 1/2
(29)
12 1/2
(31.5)
13 1/2
(34.5)
15
(38)
Armhole depth
4 1/4
(11)
5 1/2
(14)
6
(15.5)
6 1/4
(16)
6 1/2
(16.5)
7
(17.5)
Upper arm circumference
7 1/2
(19)
8
(20.5)
8 1/2
(21.5)
9
(23)
9 3/8
(24)
9
(24.5)
Wrist circumference
5 1/4
(13.5)
5 1/2
(14)
5 1/2
(14)
5 3/4
(14.5)
6
(15)
6
(15)
Misses
Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Bust
30 1/2
(77.5)
31 1/2
(80)
32 1/2
(82.5)
34
(86.5)
36
(91.5)
38
(96.5)
40
(101.5)
Waist
23
(58.5)
24
(61)
25
(63.5)
26 1/2
(67)
28
(61)
30
(76)
32
(81.5)
Hip
32
(82.5)
33 1/2
(85)
34 1/2
(87.5)
36
(91.5)
38
(96.5)
40
(101.5))
42
(106.5)
Back length
15 1/2
(39.5)
15 3/4
(40)
16
(40.5)
16 1/4
(41)
16 1/2
(42)
16 3/4
(42.5)
17
(43)
Back width
13 1/2
(34)
13 1/2
(34)
14
(35.5)
14 1/2
(37)
15
(38)
15 1/2
(39.5)
16
(40.5)
One shoulder
4 3/4
(12)
4 3/4
(12)
5
(12.5)
5
(12.5)
5
(12.5)
5 1/4
(13.5)
5
(13.5)
Waist to underarm
8 1/2
(21.5)
8 3/4
(22)
8 3/4
(22)
8 3/4
(22)
8 3/4
(22)
8 3/4
(22)
9
(23)
Wrist to underarm
16 3/4
(42.5)
16 3/4
(42.5)
17
(43)
17 1/2
(44.5)
17 3/4
(45)
18
(45.5)
18
(46.5)
Armhole depth
7
(18)
7
(18)
7 1/2
(19)
7 1/2
(19)
7 1/2
(19)
8
(20.5)
8
(20.5)
Upper arm circumference
9 3/4
(24.5)
9 3/4
(24.5 )
10 1/4
(26)
10 1/2
(26.5)
11
(28)
11 1/5
(29)
1230.5
(28)


46
Wrist circumference
6
(15)
6
(15)
6 1/4
(16)
6 1/4
(16)
6 1/2
(16.5)
6 1/2
(16.5)
6
(16.5)

Women
Size 38 40 42 44 46 48
Bust
42
(106.5)
44
(112)
46
(117)
48
(122)
50
(127)
52
(132)
54
(137)
Waist
35
(89)
37
(94)
39
(99)
41 1/2
(105.5)
44
(112)
46 1/2
(118)
49
(124.5)
Hip
44
(112)
46
(117)
48
(122)
50
(127)
52
(132)
54
(137)
56
(142)
Back length
17 1/2
(44)
17 3/8
(44)
17 1/2
(44.5)
17 5/8
(44.5)
17 3/4
(45)
17 7/8
(45.5)
18
(45.5)
Back width
16 1/2
(42)
17
(43)
17 1/2
(44)
18
(45.5)
18
(45.5)
18 1/2
(47)
18
(47)
One shoulder
5 1/2
(14)
5 1/2
(14)
5 3/4
(14.5)
5 3/4
(14.5)
6
(15.5)
6 1/4
(16)
6
(16)
Waist to underarm
9
(23)
9
(23)
9 1/4
(23.5)
9 1/4
(23.5)
9 3/8
(24)
9 1/2
(24)
9
(24.5)
Wrist to underarm
18 1/4
(46)
18 1/4
(46)
18 1/4
(46)
18 1/4
(46)
18 1/4
(46)
18 1/4
(46)
18
(46)
Armhole depth
8 1/4
(21)
8 1/4
(21)
8 1/4
(21)
8 1/2
(21.5)
8 1/2
(21.5)
8 3/4
(22)
8
(22)
Upper arm circumference
13
(33)
13 1/2
(34.5)
14
(35.5)
15
(38)
15 3/4
(40)
16 1/2
(42)
17
(43)
Wrist circumference
6 1/4
(17)
7
(17.5)
7 1/4
(18.5)
7 1/2
(19)
7 3/4
(19.5)
8
(20.5)
8
(20.5)
Men
Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Chest
34
(86.5)
36
(91.5)
38
(96.5)
40
(102)
42
(107)
44
(112)
46
(117)
48
(122)
Waist
28
(71)
30
(76)
32
(81)
34
(86.5)
36
(91.5)
39
(99)
42
(107)
44
(112)
Hip
35
(89)
37
(94)
39
(99)
41
(104)
43(109)
45
(114)
47
(119.5)
49
(124.5)
Back length
22
(56)
23
(58.5)
24
(61)
25
(63.5)
26
(66)
26
1/2
27
(70)
28 1/2
(72.5)


47
(67.5)
Back width
15
1/2
(39.5)
16
(40.5)
16
1/4
(42)
17
(43)
17 1/2
(44.5)
18
(45.5)
18
(47)
19
(48)
One shoulder
5
(12.5)
5 1/4
(13)
5 1/2
(14)
5 1/2
(14)
5 1/2
(14)
6
(15)
6
(15)
6
(15)
Wrist to underarm
17
1/2
(44.5)
18
(46)
18
1/2
(47)
19
(48)
19 1/2
(49.5)
20
(51)
20
(51)
20 1/2
(52)
Waist to underarm
14
(35)
14
1/2
(37)
15
(38)
15
1/2
(39)
16
(40.5)
16
(40.5)
16
(42)
17
(43)
Armhole depth
8
(20)
8 1/2
(21.5)
9
(23)
9 1/2
(24)
10
(25.5)
10
1/2
(26.5)
11
(28)
11 1/2
(29)
Upper arm
circumference
13
(33)
13
1/2
(34.5)
14
(35.5)
14
1/2
(37)
15 1/2
(39.5)
16
(40.5)
16
(42)
17
(43)
Wrist circumference
6 1/4
(16)
6 1/2
(16.5)
6 3/4
(17)
7
(18)
7 1/4
(18.5)
7 1/2
(19)
7
(19.5)
8
(20.5)




















48
CHAPTER 8
DRAFTING
Drafting is a method to draw the pattern of a garment with a measurement, on a paper. Drafting
involves many steps. The most important step is taking the correct measurement. Before drafting any
pattern of a garment basic bodice drafting is necessary. Bodice paper draft helps to adopt various
patterns. A sharp pointed and dark pencil, good eraser, a French curve for armholes and necklines,
measuring tape and paper sheets are the important thing required for drafting.
FRONT BODICE BLOCK

0-1 = Draw a straight line as the length measurement of the bodice; shoulder to waist.
0-2 = Mark a point down to 0 for front neck length measurement 1/12
th
of bust + 1 to 1 .
0-3 = Draw a horizontal line as the width of the bodice block, 1/4
th
of the bust.
3-4 = Draw a straight line, armhole length + side seam length. Join 4-1 as per shape.
3-5 = Mark a point on the line 3-4, 1/4
th
bust for the armhole length.
4-5 = Side seam line, full bodice length armhole length.
0-6 = Mark a point on horizontal line 0-3, of shoulder width.
6-7 = 1 down for the shoulder slop shape.
Draw a straight line 6-7-8. Join 5-8.
6-9 = 1 for the armhole depth shape. Draw a straight line 9-10.
8-11 = out side mark a point for armhole shape.
Join 7-10-11-5. Draw a smooth shape on 7-10 and 10-11. Join 8-4.
0-12 = Mark a point 1/12
th
bust for the neck width.
2-13 = Mark a point for the neck shape width for front.
Join 12-13. Mark a on 13, on cross and draw a curved neck shape.
Join 7-12, which is the slope of the shoulder.
0-14 = Mark a point with the measurement of 1/4
th
bust + 1 as the apex point of the bust.
14-15 = 3 a horizontal line for the dart point.
16-17 = width of the bodice 1/4
th
of the waist for the width of the dart. Draw dart shape on 15-16-17.
Neck shape, armhole shape can be done with the help of the french curve.






49
BACK BODICE BLOCK


0-1 = Draw a straight line as per the length measurement of the bodice same as in front bodice block.
0-2 = Mark a point 1/12
th
of bust for the back neck length.
0-3 = Horizontally, 1/4
th
bust is the width measurement of the bodice block.
3-4 = Same as 0-1
1-4 = Same as 0-3. Draw a rectangle 0-1-4-3
3-5 = Armhole length measurement, as per front part.
0-6 = horizontally, of shoulder width.
6-7 = 1 down for shoulder shape.
6-7-8 = Draw a straight line as armhole length.
6-9 = for the armhole shape.
9-10 = Draw a straight line.
8-11 = cross to draw armhole shape on 7-10-11-5.
0-12 = 1 1/12
th
bust for the neck width. Draw a curve shape for back neck. Join 7-12.
0-13 = bust + 1 is the apex point of bust for dart.
13 -14 = 3
15 -16 = Width of the dart. More than 1/4
th
waist measurement will convert into dart width. Draw
dart on 15-16-14.
Draw shape of neck and armhole with the help of french curve.
There is no seam allowance added in basic bodice draft. Basic bodice draft is helpful to adopt any
pattern of dress of different sizes. Before cutting the paper pattern of garment, check again the
measurement and pieces of the garment. Cut all the pattern pieces carefully. After cutting the pattern
of paper, mark important symbols such as fold, dart, curve etc.
Childs Body Block
0-1 = From neck point to waist is the length of the bodice.
2-3 = Same as 0-1.
0-4 and 2-4 = each 1/4
th
of chest.
Draw a straight line 4-5. This line divides the front and back bodice.
0-6 = 1/4
th
of chest is the armhole length for both the parts.


50

4-7 = 1/12
th
chest for the neck width for both the parts.
4-8 = neck length to for the back and 1/12
th
chest for front.
Draw a rectangle shape by matching two points 7and 8 and then draw curved shape on neck with the
help of the french curve.
4-9 = shoulder width for both the parts.
9-10 = down for the shoulder shape. Join 7-10.
Extend 9-10 up to 6 point. Draw a narrow rectangle on both the part on 9-10 and 6. Draw front and back
armhole shape with the help of the french curve.
1-11 and 3-11 = 1 inside. Join 6-11.
Cut the bodice block and separate front and back parts. Remember there is no seam allowance added in
this bodice block. This bodice block can be used to adopt any pattern design of garment.
To draw neck and armhole shapes with the help of French curve
NECK SHAPE
Measure 0-1 as required neck length and mark the point. Measure 0-2 as the width of the neck and mark
the point. Extend the point 1 inside and 2 downward and name the meeting point as 3. Mark 4 as the
center point of 1-3 and 5 as the center point of 2-3. Now place French curve by matching point 4-5-2 to
draw curve shape. How to draw different types of curves for neck shapes has given in page no. 10.

ARMHOLE SHAPES
Measure 0-6 as the armhole length and 6-7 is 1/4
th
of chest + required ease + seam allowance according
to the design of the garment. Measure 0-8 of shoulder width + and mark the point. Measure 8-9
down for shoulder drape or shape. Join 2-9. Extend 8-9 up to 10 as a straight line on 6-7. Mark 11 as
the center point of 7-10 and 12 as the center point of 8-10. Place French curve by matching 12-11-7 to
draw back armhole shape. Measure inside from point 12-13 and mark the point. Place French curve
by matching 9-13-11-7 points to draw front armhole shape.
Layout plan
Placing of paper pattern on the fabric is called layout plan. Some parts of the pattern should place on
length wise, some on width and some on bias. Check the pattern diagram according to the size,
version of design and width of the fabric.


51

LAYOUT PLAN OF HALF-SHIRT ON OPEN FABRIC

LAYOUT PLAN OF SAREE BLOUSE ON FOLD FABRIC

LAYOUT PLAN FOR LADIES KURTA AND UMBRELLA FROCK
In drafting always remember about fold area. On length there is fold for either front or back part, or
there is opening for buttoning on front or back. On sleeves length is on fold and the other side is
armhole shape. Follow all the rules of drafting for the correct garment. Spread the fabric on table to
layout the garment pattern. Turn the right side of the fabric to the inside so that markings can be made
on the wrong side. Pin the layers together along their edges. Keep grain line marking on pattern parallel
to selvage or fold. Hold grain line in place with pins.



52
Place pattern pieces on the fabric and pin along fold lines carefully matching fold line of pattern to
fold line of fabric. Use enough pins to keep pattern from slipping. Check all the pattern pieces
making sure to include each one. Make a trial layout by placing pattern pieces, check and then go
ahead to cut.
When laying out strips, plan for centre of a stripe or plaid to fall exactly down centre back of a
garment. Strips will match if notches of corresponding pattern pieces are placed exactly on same
colours and bars of the fabric. Pockets, collars and cuffs can be cut on bias, if is difficult to match.
PREPARATION OF FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING
Before cutting, fabric preparation is must. Fabric should be ironed properly to remove wrinkles of
fabric. Pre-wash the fabric with starch to remove the stiffness and to avoid shrinkage. Cotton fabrics and
handloom fabrics must pre-wash before cutting to avoid shrinkage. Inner lining fabrics should always
wash before cutting. Before placing the paper pattern of any garment fabric fold is necessary. Always
follow the fold on fabric according to pattern of the garment. For childrens garment there is opening in
one side, either on front or in back, so other part will be on fold. On ladies kurta front and back can cut
together on double fold of the fabric, means four layer of fabric. Always cut sleeves on length wise of
the fabric. Collar will be on the length and waist belts will be on the width of the fabric. Be careful
while cutting on the fabric with one side headed prints or with checks. Mark seam line and darts on
pattern clearly. Some parts need extra care to attach with body. Pockets, collars, sleeves and waist belt
attachments require tacking with hand needle and then machining. Follow all the rules of making
pattern, layout plan, cutting the fabric and sewing method to get desired garment. Fabric estimation for
any garment is double the length + one sleeve length + 10.














53
CHAPTER 9
EASY SEWING ITEMS
PILLOW COVER
Length and width depends upon the size of the pillow.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (ONE SIDE PART)
0-1 and 2-3 is the total length of the pillow + 1 extra for seam allowance.
0-2 and 1-3 is the total width of the pillow + 1 extra for seam allowance.
SECOND SIDE PART
Place the one side part on the fabric and draw outline. Remove one side part and now mark extension.
0-4,0-5, 1-6,1-7,2-8, 2-9, 3-10 and 3-11 all around mark = double of corner fold measurement. For
example if corner fold is 1 then take 3+ Join all the corners with extended outline as shown in
the below figure. 12, 13, 14 and 15 are the corner points. Join 4-5, 6-7, 8-9 and 10-11 and cut these
corners to fold and stitch.
ONE SIDE INNER PART
0-1 and 2-3 = 5 length 0-2 and 1-3 = width same as 0-2 of one side part.


SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold one side edges of the one side part and one side inner part and stitch. Match the corners of 4-5, 6-7,
8-9 and 10-11and stitch on wrong side. Press the seam and fold the corners. Spread second side part on
the table by keeping wrong side on top. Now place one side inner part on that by matching unstitched
edge of 0-2. Now on the top place one side part by matching 1-3 and fold the corners of the 4, 6, 7, 11,
10, 8, 9 and 5 and fix alpines. Machine with a single stitch and after set the closed zigzag stitch and
stitch on previous plain stitch.
For frilled edges cut both the parts as one side part. For frills cut the fabric strips four times of length
and width. Width of the frill is as per choice. First stitch the frills on one part of the pillow cover and
then place one side part and one side inner part and stitch.
CUSHION COVER
Length and width depends upon the size of the cushion.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (One Side Part)
0-1 And 2-3 = length of the cushion + . 0-2 and 1-3 = width of the cushion +
Second Side Part
0-1 and 2-3 = of length + 3 to 4


54

0-2 and 1-3 = same as in one side part.
Second Side Inner Part
0-1 and 2-3 is 5 and 0-2 & 1-3 is same as 0-2 of any side part.
Cut one piece of one side part, one second side part and one second side inner part. If inner lining is
there cut one piece of each same as all parts.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold 0-2 edge of second side part and second side inner part and stitch. Place one side part by keeping
right side on top. Place second side part by matching 1-3 and on the top place second side inner part by
matching 1-3 with one side parts 0-2 by keeping wrong side on top. Fix with alpines and stitch all the
four sides all around. Turn and press the seam.
POUCH
Sides of the pouch may round or square as per choice. Take a piece of fabric as per the length and width
of the required side of pouch. Cut sponge material and lining same as main fabric. Place sponge in
between the main fabric and lining and tack with hand needle, or quilting can be done with vertical,
horizontal or square stitching lines. Do same for two sides. Join two sides with the quilted main fabric.
Stitch zip on two edges at the centre opening.
For cylindrical pouch cut two round pieces and stitch a rectangle piece around the round pieces and
stitch zip to finish the opening of the pouch.


PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (BAG)
0-1 and 2-3 is the total height of the bag and 0-2 & 1-3 is the total width of the bags two side parts. For
the bottom part width will be the same as side parts but 0-1 & 2-3 is 3 to 3.5. 4 are the centre point of
0-1 and 5 is the center point of 2-3. Measure 0-6, 1-7, 2-8 and 3-9 by and join with 4 and 5 with
shape. Cut according to the shape. Length of the handle part is 15 to 17 and width is 3.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Join sides of two sides of side parts together on wrong side. Place bottom part at the bottom of the bag
and tack with hand needle and then stitch with machine. Fold the handle of the bag and stitch on open.


55

Side part from wrong side. Turn and take out the handle strip from open edge of 0-2 or 1-3 to right side.
Place handle at the position and fix with alpines. Stitch in a square shape and X shape for the strength of
the handle. Now stitch a zip to finish the opening of the bag.
APRON
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST
MAIN FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure total chest 10for length and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 for width and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3-2.
0-4 & 2-5 =Measure 1/4
th
chest and mark the point. Join 4-5.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1 and mark the point.
4-7 =Measure same as 0-6. Join 6-7.
7-8 =Measure 1 bias outside and mark the point. Draw a curve shape on 6-8-5.

POCKET
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1 less than length for the width of the pocket. Draw a box 0-1-3-2.
NECK STRIP
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 12.5 for the length of the strip. 0-2 is on fold so it will be total 25.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 2 for the width of the strip.
WAIST BELT
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 2 for the width of the belt and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure chest + 6 and mark the point.
Cut one main front part of the apron, one pocket, one neck strip and two waist belt pieces.


56
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Fold the 0-2 of the pocket first by and second by on wrong side and stitch. Place the pocket at the
center of 0-4 by folding the edges of 0-1-3-2 inside and fix with alpines. Stitch on edges. If wish to
stitch one more big pocket on center of 1-4, cut same length with double of the width of the small
pocket and follow same instruction to stitch. Fold all the edges of the main part on 0-6-8-5-3-1 and
stitch. Edges can be finished by bias strip of fabric also. Fold both side edges of the neck strip and waist
belt in and fold to stitch. Place one end of the neck strip on 6 and another on the other folded side of 6
and stitch in X shape for strength. Same way stitch two belts on two sides of 5 to finish apron.

CHILDRENS CLOTHES
JANGIA
MEASUREMENTS
SEAT = as per age
LENGTH= 1/3
rd
of seat + 1extra + 1:5 for nefa for elastic
WIDTH= 1/4
th
of seat + 1:5

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 = Measure 1:5 and mark the point fold for elastic.
1-2 =Measure Length of Jangia and draw a straight line 0-1 & 2.
0-3 = Measure width of Jangia 1/4
th
of seat + 1:5 and mark the point.
3-4-5 = 0-1-2 and 2-5 = 0-3. Draw a block 0-3-5-2. Join 1-4.
4-6 = Measure1/2' inside and join 3-6.
5-7 =Measure 1/6
th
of seat and Join 6-7.
2-8 =Measure 1/12
th
of seat and Join 7-8.
9 = Mark as center point of 7-8.
9-10=Measure 1/2 inside for front shape. Join 8-10-7 with curved shape.
Fold the fabric two times to get four layers of fabric. Follow the fold as per draft. First cut the part 3-6-
7-9-8. Separate front and back parts and then cut deep curved shape only for front on 8-10-7. Cut two
strips of fabric as per shape of the front and back leg.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First join two sides of Jangia on 3-6-7. Finish front and back leg open with same of strips of fabric by
matching front and back leg shapes. Leg finish can also be done with frills, piping or lace. Fold top part
for nefa to insert elastic. Take elastic as 1/3
rd
of seat and insert.
JHABLA
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size


57
LENGTH = chest 3
WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest + 4
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure length of Jhabla and draw a straight line.
1-2 =Measure 1and mark for bottom fold.
0-3 =Measure width of Jhabla 1/4
th
of chest + 4 and mark.
4-5 =Measure same as 1-2. Join 1-4 and 2-5.
3-6 =Measure 1/6
th
of chest and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for neck depth. Draw a rectangle on 6-7.
8 =Mark a center point on 7. Draw curve shape on neck with French Curve (see page 50).
3-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + for arm.
9-10 =Measure 1:5 inside for armhole shape. Join 10-5. Draw a small curve shape on 9-10.

Cut the front and back parts of Jhabla. Cut stripes of same fabric to finish sleeves and neck.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First join shoulders 3-6. Place the pattern of Jhabla in such a way that on shoulder fold comes like in
Jangia on 2-8 area is fold. Finish sleeves part 3-9 with fabric strips and hem. Finish neck part with the
same shape of fabric strip. On front part, make a small hole on neck at point 7 and finish it with
buttonhole stitch to insert dory. Finish bottom flair with hem. Insert a dory on front neck and tie a knot
at the end of the dory.
A-LINE JHABLA
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
WIDTH = chest + 4
SHOULDER = of chest 1

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length of Jhabla and mark the point.
0-2 = Measure of chest + 4 for width of the jhabla according to bottom flair.


58
1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 and 2.
0-4 =Measure of shoulder + and mark the point.
4-5 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for neck width and mark the point. Join 4-5.
0-7 =Measure 1:5 for back neck length and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + or 1 for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back
neck shapes with the help of the French curve ( see page 50).
0-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest for armhole length and mark the point.
9-10 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 1 for ease + for seam allowance. Join 10-3.
11 is the straight extension line of 4-5. Mark 12 as the center point of 4-11. Draw back armhole shape on
5-12-10 by French Curve. Measure inside on 12-13 and draw front armhole shape by joining 5-13-10
points by French Curve.
Cut the same shape of fabric stripes to finish neck and armholes (see page 10). Keep back open for ease
and finish with buttoning.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First finish back opens with buttoning(see page 14). For buttoning cut two straight stripes of same fabric
as per the length of the Jhabla + 1:5extra. One strip width will be 2 and one is 1:5. Join 2 strip on
the left side of the back part. Half fold the strip and machine on top. Join 1:5 strip to other side and
totally fold inside and machine or hem.
Join front and back shoulder on 3-5. Finish armhole and neck with same shape of fabric strip, turn the
strip inside and finish with hem. To decorate the garment armhole and neck finish can be done with
piping, frills or lace. Join two sides of A-line jhabla on 8-9. Finish bottom flair with hem.
SUN SUIT
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
WAIST LOOSE = chest 2
BIB LENGTH = of chest 2
BIB WIDTH = 1/6 of chest +
JANGIA LENGTH = of seat
JANGIA WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest + 4 for

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (JANGIA)
0-1 =Measure length of the Jangia and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of seat + 1.5 for the width of Jangia
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-2-3.
3-4 =Measure 1/6
th
of seat for leg open.
1-5 =Measure 1/12
th
of seat and join 4-5.
6 =Mark a center point of 4-5.


59
6-7 =Measure inside and join 5-7-4 with curve for front leg shape.
2-8 =Measure 4 extra for gathers and mark the point.
4-9 =Same as 2-8. Join 2-8-9-4.
BIB
0-1 =Measure length of the bib and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure width of the bib and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-2-3.
0-4 and 0-5 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for neck length and width and mark the points. Draw curve
shape for neck by French Curve (see page 50).
2-6 =Measure 2 and 3 on 3-7. Draw curve shape as shown in Fig.
STRAPS
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure chest + 2 for the length of shoulder straps.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for the width of straps. Cut two pieces with 2+2 layers of fabric.
BELT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for the length of the belt.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure chest + 1 for the width of the belt.
After drafting check the measurements and cut the paper pattern. Place the paper pattern on fabric and
mark Jangia front and back with fold on 1-5. Two layers of fabric required for bib, straps and belt.
Elastic estimation is 3/4
th
of seat.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Finish the side openings of two sides of Jangia on 8-9 by stitching two 1.25 and wide by 1.5 strips.
Stitch narrow strips on front part and wide on back part of the Jangia. Fold narrow strip fully on the
wrong side and stitch. Half fold the wide strip and stitch like second figure of B.

Join 1-5 of front and back of jangia together. To finish leg whole of jangia cut the strip of the same
shape and place on the right side by matching front and back shape. Stitch and turn to press the seam.
Fold the strip on wrong side and stitch to finish.
Stitch 5,4,2,7 and 6 of the two layers of bib part from wrong side and turn, Press the seam. Adjust few
gathers at the center of the 0-2 of the jangia. Place the bib by matching center point of jangia and tack.
Fold the waist belt part and place on waist part of the jangia as shown in below fig. and stitch all
together. For the back part same way place the shoulder strap as shown in fig. and on top place the waist




60
belt and stitch all together. For the back part elastic can be inserted for fitting with the measurement of
1/3
rd
of back waist part. Turn and press the seam. Stitch button holes on shoulder strap and front sides
and buttons on bib and back side part to finish the sun suit.

BABY FROCK
MEASUREMENT
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
YOKE LENGTH = 1/4
th
of chest +
YOKE WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest
PUFF SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4
th
of chest
PUFF SLEEVE WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest + 2

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure length of baby frock according to size and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1and mark for bottom fold and hem.
0-3 and 0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest -1/2 for the yoke length and width.
4-5 =Measure down and mark the point for shoulder shape.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + and mark the point for neck width. Join 5-6.
0-7 =Measure for back neck length and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + and mark the point for front neck length. Join 5-6. Draw front and
back neck shape with the help of French Curve (see page 50).
3-9 =Same as 0-4 Join 4-5-9.
3-10 =Measure of chest + 4 for gathers (can take more for more gathers).
10-11 and 10-12 =Measure and mark 1 for shape. Draw curve shape on 11-12.
9-13=Measure1upside for armhole shape on yoke and mark the point.
14 =Mark as center point of 3-9 for shape. Join 13-14 for shape
PUFF SLEEVE
See page no. 22.
Cut front and back yoke parts and front and back skirt part. Separate back part in two parts for
buttoning. Slash 1 down on centre of the back skirt part for buttoning. Two puff sleeves cut as per
draft. Cut cross stripes of fabric to finish neck and straight stripes to finish sleeves bottom. Two straight
stripes of fabric of same length, but one of 1 width and one is 1:5 width is required for buttoning.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Adjust gathers on front and back skirt as shown in the below figure.


61

Join yoke part on 3-14-13 of front and back skirt. Extend the open of the back on the center of the skirt
by 1.5 below. Place narrow stripes and wide strip as shown in below figure and stitch.

Finish buttoning with hem. Finish neck with cross stripes of fabrics. Adjust gathers on puff sleeves at
the centre fold on 0-6. Finish sleeves bottom with fabric stripes. Join two puff sleeves with yoke. Hem
on bottom flair of skirt part. Stitch buttons on back open part. Neck part and sleeve bottom can be
finished with piping or frills or lace for decorative purpose. Either neck can be finished with Peter Pan
collar. Cotton fabric is suitable for baby frock, may be plain or printed or can mix n match both.
PRINCESS PETTICOAT
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size or age
LENGTH = chest 2
WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest + 4
HALF SHOULDER = 1/6
th
of chest + 1:5
WAIST LENGTH = of chest + 1:5
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure length of princess petticoat and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure width of the petticoat according to required flair.

1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1 -3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure of shoulder width and mark the point.


62
5-6 =Measure down and mark the point for shoulder shape
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + and mark the point for neck width.
0-8 =Measure 1:5 for back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + and mark the point for front neck length. Join 6-7. Draw front and
back neck shape by French Curve ( see page 50).
4-10 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 1:5and mark the point.
0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10-12 =Draw a straight line.
12-13 =Measure inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-13-3.
3-14 = 1 upside for shape. Draw shape as shown in figure.
Draw front and back armhole shape (see page 50). Cut fabric stripes to finish neck and armhole as per
shape.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join front and back shoulder on 7-6. Finish neck and armhole shape with fabric stripes, piping or narrow
lace. Join sides on 10-12-15-13-14. Finish bottom flair with hem. Cotton fabric with small print is
suitable for princess petticoat.
PINAFORE DRESS
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
WIDTH = 1/4
th
of chest + 4
HALF SHOULDER = 1/6
th
of chest + 1:5
WAIST LENGTH = of chest - 1:5
FULL SLEEVES LENGTH = of chest + 1:5
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (PINAFORE)
0-1 =Measure length of dress and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 4 for width of the pinafore according to the flair width.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure half shoulder + and mark the point.
4-5 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + 1for neck width and mark the point. Join 5-6.

0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + 1down for both front and back neck length and mark the point. Draw
front and back neck shape with French curve ( see page 50).
0-8 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + for armhole length and mark the point.


63
8-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 1:5for ease and for seam allowance and mark the point. Join 9-10.
Draw front and back armhole shape with French curve ( see page 50).
BLOUSE
0-1 =Measure waist length +1/2 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 1 for ease + for seam allowance and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure half shoulder + and mark the point.
4-5 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for neck width and mark the point. Join 5-6.
0-7 =Measure 1 down for back neck shape and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + down for front neck length and mark the point.
For blouse mandarin collar or peter-pan collar can be attached. For collar see the chapter 3.
0-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest for armhole length and mark the point.
9-10 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw front and back armhole shape with French curve ( see page 50) .
SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure sleeve length and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest for the width of the sleeves and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.
4 =Mark a center point of 0-2.
4-5 =Measure inside and mark the point.
6 = Mark a center point of 0-4.
6-7 =Measure inside and mark the point.
5-8 =Measure 1.25 inside for front armhole shape and mark the point.
2-9 = Same as 2-4. Mark the point.
1-10 =Measure of sleeve bottom girth + for ease + for seam allowance and mark the point.
Join 9-10 as per shape. Join 0-7-5-9 for back armhole shape. Join 7-8-9 for front armhole shape.
For pinafore dress plain and printed or two contrasts color of fabric can be used. For pinafore cut front
and back parts and cut cross or neck and armhole shape stripes of same fabric. For blouse front or back
part can be opened for buttoning. If there is buttoning at front side then show buttons can be highlighted.
Cut two straight stripes of fabric as per requirement for buttoning. For neck finishing cut same stripes of
fabric as per shape or collar can be attached. To finish sleeves bottom straight stripes of fabric can be
used as piping or frills can be attached.
SEWING INSTRUCTION (PINAFORE)
Join front and back shoulder on 5-6. Finish neck and armhole shape with same shape of fabric stripes
and hem. Join two sides on 9-3. To finish bottom flair fold and hem.
BLOUSE
Finish front or back opening with placket (see page 14). Join front and back shoulders on 5-6. Finish
neck with same strip of fabric or with collar. Finish sleeves bottom with hem. Join two sleeves to blouse
by matching shoulder. Finish bottom of the blouse with hem. Stitch buttons or hooks to finish opening.
NICKER WITH ELASTIC
MEASUREMENT
HIP = as per size and age.
LENGTH = hip -1
WAIST = 1/4
th
hip + 1


64

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT)
0-1 =Measure length of nicker -1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip + 2.5 for the width of the nicker and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure inside mark a point
4-5 =Measure

down and mark the point.
4-6 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip + 1 and mark the point.
6-7 =Same as 4-5. Mark the point. Join 5-7.
8 =Mark as the center point of 4-5 for dart.
0-8 =Measure 1/3
rd
of hip 1 and mark the point.
8-9 =Same as 0-2 total width of the nicker. Draw 8-9 as a straight line.
6-10 =Draw a straight line on 8-9.
11 =Mark as the center point of 6-10. Draw curve shape on 11-9 with French Curve.
1-12 =Measure 1.5upward for bottom fold.
12-13 =Measure inside and mark a point.
3-14 =Same as 1-12. Mark the point.
14-16 =Measure 1/4
th
hip -2 for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 1-13 ,3-15 and 15-9 as per shape.
BACK
0-1 =Measure length of nicker -1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip + 3.5 for the width of the nicker and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure inside mark a point
4-5 =Measure

down and mark the point.
4-6 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip + 1 and mark the point.
6-7 =Same as 4-5. Mark the point. Join 5-7.
8 =Mark as the center point of 4-5 for dart.
0-8 =Measure 1/3
rd
of hip 1 and mark the point.
8-9 =Same as 0-2 total width of the nicker. Draw 8-9 as a straight line.
6-10 =Draw a straight line on 8-9.
11 =Mark as the center point of 6-10. Draw curve shape on 11-9 with French Curve.
1-12 =Measure 1.5upward for bottom fold.
12-13 =Measure inside and mark a point.
3-14 =Same as 1-12. Mark the point.
14-16 =Measure 1/4
th
hip -2 for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 1-13, 3-15 and 15-9 as per shape.
WAIST BANDS
0-1 = 2 width and another 3 width 0-2 = waist + 1 for both the waist bands


65
2-3 = 0-1 and 1-3 = 0-2.Join 0-1-3-2.
Back part of the nicker is larger than front part. Two piece of each waist band is required. Elastic
estimation is 3/4
th
of waist + .
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join one front and one back part together on 4-5-9-14-1. Join front to front and back to back on
6=12=10 together. Join front to back separately on legs parts on10-16-3. Fold bottom and either hem or
machine on 1-3 to 14-16. Stitch dart on front. The dart length will be 2:5 length. Join two waist bands
together on 0-2. Press the stitch and join narrow waist band to nicker on waist. Narrow waist band will
be on top and wide will be inside of the nicker. Fold the edges of wide waist band on 1-3. Now top
stitch should be done on right side together with wide waist band on first joining of narrow waist band.
Keep a small opening to insert elastic. Now insert elastic and join two ends together of elastic. Close the
opening. To finish stretch the waist band and machine two or three times parallel.
CHILDRENS FULL PANT (with elastic)
MEASUREMENTS
SEAT = chest + 1 or 2
LENGTH = according to measurement
WAIST = seat -6
BOTTOM = seat 1 or 2
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART)
0-1 =Measure full length of the pant and mark the point.
1-A =Measure 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
seat -1 and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure 1/4
th
seat + 1and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-3-4.
4-5 =Measure 1:5 out side and mark a point.
6 = Mark as a center point of 3-4 & 7 =as a center point of 3-6. Draw a curved shape on 7-6-5
A-B =Measure as bottom flair of pant. Join 5-B
8 =Mark a center point of 5-B.
8-9 =Measure 1 inside for shape. Join 5-9-B as per shape
BACK PART
For back part place the front part and mark same as it is. Extend the points as per draft.
5-C =Measure 1:5 out side and mark the point.
3-D =Measure 2:5 upside and mark a point.
0-E =Measure 2 upside & measure B-F = 1 outside and mark the points.
Join all the points E-D-C-F as per shape.
BELT
Measure 0-1 and 2-3 as 2 for one and 2:5 width for other belts. Measure 0-2 and 1-3 is waist + 1as
width of the belt. Cut two front parts and two back parts along with two pieces of belt parts. Elastic
estimation is 3/4
th
of waist + . Patch pockets 5 length and 4 width can be attached as per choice.


66


SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch waist darts, if any. Stitch side seams with one front and one back part on E-0-2-1-A. Stitch inner
leg seams with one front and one back leg on 5-9-B. Stitch on crochet area on front to front and back to
back on 3 -5 or D-C. Fold bottom on A-B and stitch. Join narrow and wide waist belts in the same way
as in nicker. After inserting elastic make two or three parallel stitches on waist belt to finish the pant.
DUNGAREE
MEASUREMENTS
FULL LENGTH = measure shoulder to ankle
SEAT = chest + 1 or 2
WAIST = seat -6
BOTTOM = seat -1 or 2
CHEST = as per size
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
Trouser part is as same as childrens full pant. Follow the same drafting of full pant for the trouser.
BIB
Bib is a square piece of two layer of fabric with the measurement of 1/4
th
chest +1 all around.
POCKET
Measure 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the pocket 4 or 5 & 0-2 and 1-3 is the width of the pocket 3:5
STRAPS
Measure 0-1 and 1-3 is the width of the straps 2 & 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the straps chest + 3
TAB
Two piece of tab is required with 0-2 = 2:5 and 0-1 = 2
Two front parts and two back parts cut same as full pant for children. Cut bib one part only for front
with two layers of fabric. Two straps with double layer of fabric are required. Two tabs are needed to
attach on two sides of waist. Pockets can be one or two as per choice. Big size buttons required 4 pieces.



67

SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch side leg seams on one front and one back part of trouser on 0-1-A, leaving 4:5 open at top edges.
Follow the stitching method of full pant for the trouser. At back waist, turn 1:5 to wrong side to insert
elastic. Elastic estimation only for back waist is 3/4
th
of half waist + . Stitch the fold and insert elastic
and close the two ends with machine. Fold tabs in half, right side together, stitch points and side edges,
turn right side out. Make a horizontal buttonhole in tab. slip unstitched edges in ends elastic casing and
stitch firmly in place. Fold bib in half, right sides together, stitch side seams. Turn right side out. Press.
Stitch to front waist, right sides together. Neaten remainder of waist seam. Fold shoulder straps in half
length wise, right sides together, stitch pointed end and long edge. Turn right side out. Make buttonhole
in pointed end. Stitch straps and bib top edge to correspond with buttonholes. Fold pockets in half, right
sides together, stitch side and lower edges, leaving gap through which to turn pockets right side out. Slip
stitch openings. Stitch pockets in place. Stitch trouser hems.
BOYS SHORTS
MEASUREMENTS
HIP = as per size
LENGTH = hip 2
WAIST = seat-6
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART)
0-1 =Measure full length and mark the point.
1-A =Measure 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip 1 and mark the point for crochet length.
0-3 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1and mark the point for waist part.
2-4 =Mark same as 0-3 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-3.
1-5 and A-B =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 2and mark the point.
4-6 =Measure 1 and mark the point. Join B-5-6.
7 =Mark a center point of 3-4 and mark 8 a center point of 3-7. Draw curve shape on 3-8-6.
3-9 =Measure upside for shape and mark the point. Join 0-9
9-10 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 1and mark the point. Join 9-10
10-11 =Measure 7 down for pocket opening and mark the point.
12 =Measure a center point of 2-4 and mark. Draw straight line and mark 3 down for waist dart.
BACK PART
Place front and draw outline as it is. Now extend some points for back part.
4-6 =Measure 1 out side and mark the point.
1-5 and A-B =Measure 1 outside and mark the point. Join 6-5-B


68

3-9 =Measure 1 upside and mark the point. Join 10-9 and 9-6. Draw curve shape on 10-11
Draw back waist dart on 12.
WAIST BELTS
Two belts are there of same shape with different width. One is with 1 width and the other is 2 .
0-1 =Mark same as 2-3.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure waist + 2 and mark the point.
0-4 and 2-5 =Measure down for shape and mark the point
6 =Mark a center point of 1-3 and mark the point.
6-7 =Measure upside and mark the point. Join 1-7-3 and 4-5 as curved shape.
SIDE POCKETS
0-1 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip + 2 is length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
waist 1 and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.
1-4 =Measure 1 upside for shape and mark the point.
3-5 =Measure upside for shape and mark the point. Draw shape on 4 to 5.
ZIP STRIPES
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip -2 length and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 2 width and mark the point.
Cut two front and two back parts. Cut two waist belts of different width. Inner lining fabric should use
for two side pockets. Cut three stripes of fabric for zip attachment.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back darts. Attach zip on two front parts on 10-11-2. Join two zipper strips together as
per shape on 1-3, press the seam and turn. Now open the zip and place one side of zip in between the
front part and strips and machine on very close to edges. To attach on other part join the rest one strip to
other part, turn and press the seam. Place the other side of zip on inner side at distance of and tack
with hand needle so that at the time of machining it will not slip from place. Now start machining from
waist to down and at the end of the zip bar tack to lock the end. To attach side pockets fold the edges 10-
11 on front part and machine. Place a small piece of fabric of shorts on the inner layer of pocket and join
to hide to show lining fabric of pocket. Join pocket on 2-5-4. Join one top layer of pocket to side seam
of front part and other part to back part within the side seam line. Fold bottom and machine. Join two
waist bands together on 4-5, turn and press the seam. Fold the edges of wide waist band and machine on
1-7-3. Stitch the both ends of the waist bands, turn and press the seam. Join narrow waist band with
waist part of the shorts. Press the seam neatly and top stitch together with wide waist band inside. Finish
shorts by attaching hook on waist.




69
BOYS NIGHT SUIT
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest 4
SHOULDER = chest
FULL SLEEVE LENGTH = chest + 7 to 8
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART)
A-0 and B-1 =Measure 2 extra for placket and mark the point. Join A-B and 0-1 a straight line.
0-1 = Measure length of the shirt + 1 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 2 for the width of the shirt and mark the point.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark a point.
0-5 =Measure of shoulder width measurement + and mark a point.
5-6 =Measure 3/4
th
down for shoulder shape and mark a point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-8 as per shape. Mark a
center of 7-8 and name the point as a. Measure inside from a-b and draw light curve shape on 8-b-7.
4-9 =Measure width of the shirt same as 0-2 and mark the point.
5-6 & 10 is a straight line. Mark a center point of 5-10 and name the point as 11. Measure inside
from 11-12 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape with the help of the French curve.
BACK PART
0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, & 4-9 =Measure same as in front part and mark the points.
0-8 =Measure down for back neck. Draw a rectangle by joining 7 & 8 points and draw a curved
shape for back neck by French curve.
5-10 =Draw a straight line and mark 11 as the center point. Draw back armhole shape on 6-11 & 9.
FULL SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure full sleeve length + 1 bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + for the width of the sleeve.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-2-3-1
4 =Mark a center point of 0-2.
4-5 =Measure inside and mark a point.
6 = Mark a center point of 0-4.
6-7 =Measure inside. Join 0-7-5-9 for back armhole shape.
5-8 =Measure 1 inside. Join 7-8-9 for front armhole shape
2-9 =Measure same as 2-4.
3-10 =Measure 1 to 1 for sleeve bottom. Join 9-10.
COLLAR
0-1 and 2-3 = Measure 3 for the length of the collar.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/6
th
chest + 1 for the width of the collar.
4 =Measure a center point of 0-2 & 5 measure a center point of 1-3.
1-6 =Measure upside and on 0-7 =measure 1 upside.
Join 4-7-6-5 as per shape.
POCKET
Measure 1/4
th
chest 2 to 2 length and 1/12
th
chest + 1 width for the pocket and mark the points.


70

Cut two front parts, one back, two sleeves, two pockets and two layer of collar. On collar mark 1/4
th
all
around for seam allowance.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold the 0-A and 1-B area for both the front part and tack with hand needle. Fold the one end of pocket
and stitch. Place two pockets on two fronts by keeping 2 distance from placket and 5 downside from
shoulder. Stitch the pockets (see page 12). Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Join two piece of collar
together as per shape and turn. Press the seam and top stitch as per shape on 6-8-7-4-0. Mark a small
notch on the centre of the collar and back neck. On front turn the 0-A and stitch just the top end and turn
and press the seam. Match the notch mark of collar and back neck and fix with pin. Join one layer of
collar from front 8-b-7 to back 8-7. Press the seam and turn seam inside and place the top layer of collar
and top stitch on joining. Fold the bottom of sleeves and stitch. Match the top of the sleeve 0 with the
shoulder seam of body and join the sleeves. Join two sides of front and back along with sleeves on 9-10.
Mark the points to fix buttons and buttonholes on front open. Make buttonholes and stitch buttons.
PYJAMA
MEASUREMENTS
LENGTH = as per size
SEAT = chest + 1 or 2
WAIST = seat 6




71
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length of the Pajama and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
seat + 3 for the width of the pajama and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a block 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/3
rd
seat for boys & 1/3
rd
seat + 2 for girls and mark the point.
4-5 =this point is the width of the pajama. Mark the point.
0-6 & 4-7 =Measure 1/4
th
seat + 1 and draw a square 0-4-7-6.
Mark 8 a center point of 6-7. Draw a curve shape on 8-5.
1-9 =Measure same as 4-7 and mark the point. Join 5-9 with shape.
WAIST BELT
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 2 width of the belt and 0-2 and 1-3 = waist + 1 and mark the points.
This kind of casual pajama can be worn with night suit for both boys and girls. On waist there is elastic
in pajama for comfort. Elastic estimation is 3/4 of total waist + 1.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join sides on 0-4-1 with one front and one back leg part. Join inner leg parts on 5-9. Join crochet area on
6-5. Stitch the belt piece with casing to insert elastic. Insert elastic and close the end.
Fold the bottom of pajama and machine to finish.
HALF BUSH SHIRT
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest 4-5
SHOULDER = of chest measurement + 2
HALF SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4
th
of chest 2
NECK GIRTH = 1/4
th
chest -2

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT)
Draw same pattern as boys night suit shirt.
BACK
Draw same as boys night suit shirt. There is no neck shape for back part because here yoke is to be
stitched. Join 0-6 as per shape.
HALF SLEEVE
0-1 =Measure sleeve length + 1 extra for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 2-0. Draw a square on 0-1-3-2
4 =Mark as a center point of 0-2 & 5 as a center point of 0-4.


72
4-6 =Measure & 5-8 measure inside and mark the points.
6-7 =Measure 1 inside and mark the point.
2-9 =Measure same as 2-4. Measure 1 on 3-10 and mark the point. Join 9-10.
Join 0-8-5-9 for back armhole shape and join 8-7-9 for front armhole shape.
POCKET
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/6
th
chest + 1 for top fold, is the length of pocket, mark the point.
0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/6
th
chest for the width of the pocket and mark the point.
1-5 and 3-6 =Measure upside for shape. Join 5-4-6.
COLLAR
See page no. 20 for shirt collar.
BACK YOKE
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 3 width of the yoke and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure shoulder + 1 for the length of the yoke and mark the point.
0-4 =Measure 1 /12
th
chest for the width of the neck and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure 1 for the length of the neck. Draw curve shape for back neck.
2-6 =Measure 1 down for shoulder shape and mark the point. Join 4-6.
Cut two fronts and one back part. Cut two sleeves and one or two pocket as per choice. Two pieces of
back yoke is needed and two piece of collar and two piece of collar band. One piece of collar facing
without seam allowance is required to insert inside the collar for stiffness.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
First fold the front placket a-b and tack with hand needle. Fold the top of the pocket and stitch. Place
pocket 1 away from front placket and tack with hand needle. Stitch the pocket with bar tacking on
two sides on top of the pocket. Place back shoulder part in between the two pieces of yoke and tack and
then machine. Turn back yoke and press the stitch. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7 of front with 4-6
of back yoke. Stitch collar to finish the neck part of the shirt (see page 20). Fold the bottom of the
sleeves and stitch. Join two sleeves with the shirt. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch. Make
buttonholes and stitch buttons on the front plackets.
SKIRT
MEASUREMENT REQUIRED
HIP = as per size
LENGTH = lower waist to down as per choice
WAIST = as per size



73
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the skirt 1 and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
hip +4 or as per choice for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 2-3.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
of waist + for loose and 1 for seam and mark the point. Join 4-3 as per shape.
5 = Mark a center point of 0-4. Measure + 5-6 & 5-7 for dart and mark the points.
5-8 =Measure the length of the dart is 3. Draw the dart shape on 7-8-6.
3-9 =Measure 1 upside for shape. Draw the shape with the help of the French curve.
BELT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1 width of the belt and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure waist +1for ease + 1extension for hook and mark the point.
Cut one front part and one back part of skirt and two pieces of belt.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back darts. Join sides of front and back on 2-8. Stitch waist belt to skirt waist part on 0-
2. Fold the bottom flair and machine on 1-8. Attach hook on waist to finish the skirt.
GIRLS NIGHT SUIT
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest 2
SHOULDER = 1/3
rd
chest + 3
PUFF SLEEVES LENGTH = 1/4
th
chest
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (YOKE AND SKIRT)
0-1 =Measure length of night suit and mark the point.
1-A =Measure 1 fold for bottom and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the length of the yoke and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
3-3a =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
2-3b =Same as 0-3. Draw a square on the points 0-3-3b-2.

3b-3c =Measure 1upside for yoke shape and mark the point.
0-4 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for the neck width and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure 1 for back neck length and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + for front neck length and mark the point.
2-7 =Measure chest + 4 to 6 for gathers and mark the point.
7-7a =Measure 1 upside for shape and mark the point.
7-7b =Measure 1down for shape and mark the point. Draw curve shape by joining 7-7a -7b points.


74
1-8 =Same as 2-7 and A-B = 1-8. Draw front and back neck and armhole shape
PUFF SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure sleeves length 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest as width of the sleeve and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-3-1.
3-4 =Measure 1and mark the point.
0-A =Measure 2 for gathers and mark the point.
5 =Mark middle point of A-2.
5-6 =Measure and 6-7 = 1inside.
8 =Mark a center point of A-5.
8-9 =Measure inside and mark the point.
2-10 =Same as 2-5. Join A-9-6-10 for back armhole shape & 9-7-10 for front armhole shape. Join 10-4.
COLLAR
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 2 width of the collar and mark the point.
0-4 =Measure down and mark the point.
1-5 =Measure 1down for collar shape and mark the point.
3-6 =Measure upside and mark the point. Join 2-4 and with a curve on 1-5-6.
POCKET (as per choice)
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/6
th
of chest + 1length of the pocket Join 2-4 and with a curve on 1-5-6.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure1/6
th
chest 1for the width of the pocket and mark the point.
Draw curve on the corner of the pocket on1& 3.
On front yoke part there is opening to attach buttons. Two layers of fabric are required for collar. Cut
two straight stripes of fabric to finish the sleeves bottom with 1 width. To finish opening two stripes
of fabric with different width is needed.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Adjust gathers on front and back skirt parts and join back skirt part to back yoke. Separate the front yoke
part in two piece and slit 1 on the centre of the skirt. Match the skirt slit with the opening on yoke
and join together yoke and skirt. Finish the open part for buttoning on front yoke with stripes of fabrics.
Join front and back shoulder. Stitch together the two piece of collar on4-1-5-3-6-2, turn and press the
seam. Place the collar on the neck part and tack with hand needle and then machine carefully. Place two
pockets on front side of skirt and stitch. Adjust gathers on sleeves armhole and bottom. Finish the
sleeves bottom with attaching straight stripes of fabric. Place sleeves gathers part on shoulder of the
body and join two sleeves. Finish the night suit by making buttonholes and attaching buttons.
ONE PIECE FROCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = neck point to knee
WAIST = circumference
WAIST LENGTH = neck point to middle waist
SHOULDER = width
SLEEVE LENGTH = shoulder point to arm
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length of the frock + 2 for bottom hem and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
0-4 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
4-5 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.


75
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + and mark the point. Join 5-6.
0-7 =Measure 1 to 2 down for back neck length and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1 to 1 for front neck length and mark the point.
Draw front and back neck shape
2-9 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + 1for seam and mark the point.
3-10 =Same as 2-9. Draw straight line 9-10
10-11 =Measure 1 inside for waist shape and mark the point.
1-12 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 6 to 8for flair and mark the point.
12-14 =Measure 1 upside for shape.
FOR DART
0-A =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1and mark the point.
3-B =Measure A-3 on 3 take + both side for dart and mark the point.
Draw front and back armhole shape.


One piece frock should cut on bias fabric for a correct drape. Plain sleeves or puff sleeves can be
joining. To fit on waist dart is there, in place of dart waist belt can be stitched with side seam. To finish
neck cut bias fabric stripes.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch darts, if any. Slit on the centre back part on 7-3 for back opening. Finish the open area for
buttoning on back part with the straight stripes of fabric. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes.
Finish the bottom of sleeves and join with the frock on armhole. Join front and back sides on 9-11-13.
To attach waist belt insert one end of belt within the side seam on 11 and stitch along with side seam.
Fold the bottom flair end and either machine or hem. Button stitching is the finishing part of the frock.
TWO-PIECE FROCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = on shoulder neck point to knee
WAIST = circumference
WAIST LENGTH= shoulder to waist
SLEEVES LENGTH


76


PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS)
0-1 =Measure waist length + and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + 1 seam and mark the point.
1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for neck and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1 to 1 down for back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1fornt neck length. Draw front and back neck shape with French curve.
4-10 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + 1seam and mark the point.
3-11 =Measure inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11.
1-12 =Mark 3 for dart.
12-13 =Measure & mark 3 for dart length.
12-14 and 12-15 =Measure and mark + for dart. Draw dart on 13-14 and 13-15.
Draw front and back armhole shape with the help of the French curve.
PUFF SLEEVE
Puff sleeves draft has given in baby frock drafting in page 22.
SKIRT
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length waist length + 2for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 6 to 8 for gathers and mark the point.
This is a simple two piece frock drafting and so many adaptation can be done with this. To decorate
frock collar and puff sleeves can be attached. For the skirt part pleats can be chosen. To make it more
decorative, designer or party frock lace or net fabric can be used with satin lining and can be decorated
with frills, satin ribbons, bows or lace.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back dart. For the designer frock avoid front dart. Keep back opening to attach buttons
or zip can be attached. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes or collar. Finish the bottom of the
sleeves and stitch with top. Adjust gathers on skirt and join with the top.


77
LOW-WAIST FROCK
MEASUREMENT REQUIRED
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
WAIST LENGTH = chest 1
LOWER WAIST LENGTH = chest + 2
SHOULDER = chest 1
SLEEVE LENGTH = chest 2
SLEEVE BOTTOM = 1/6
th
chest + 1
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (top)
0-1 =Measure length of the frock and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 1.5 for ease + for seam and mark the point.
2-3 =Measure lower waist length + and draw a straight line.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.
0-8 =Measure same as 0-7 for back neck length and mark the point.


0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front & back neck shape.
4-10 =Measure same as 0-2 i.e. width of the top of the frock.
0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10 -12 =Measure same as 4-11 and mark the point.
12-13 =Measure 1inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-13-3 as per shape.
0-14 =Measure lower waist length and mark the point. Join 14-3.
14-15 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 4or more for gathers and mark the point.
1-16 =Measure same as 14-15 and mark the point. Join 1-16-15.
0-17 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 for the dart point and mark.
17-18 & 11-19 =Measure 3.5 for the distance of the dart and mark the point.
11-20 =Mark same as 17-11 and mark the point.
20-21 =Measure same as 17-18. Draw a straight line 18-19-21.
19-22 & 19-23 =Measure + for the dart and join 18-22-21 and 18-23-21 with shape.


78
5-6-24 points are in a straight line. Point 25 is the center of 5-24. Draw back armhole shape on 6-25 &
10. Measure inside from 25 and name the point as 26. Draw front armhole shape on 6-26 & 10.
LEGO MUTTON SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure full or 3/4
th
sleeve length and mark the point.
1-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the width of the sleeve.
1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle on 0-1-3-2
3-4 =Measure inside and mark the point.
5 =Mark as a center point on 0-2.
2-6 =same as 2-5, mark the point.
7 =Mark as a center point of 5-6 and mark the point.
7-8 =Measure 1 for front armhole shape and mark the point.
0-A and 2-B =Measure 3 to 4 upside extension for gathers and mark the point.
Draw armhole shape on A-5-7-6 for back and 0n 5-8-6 for front. Join 6-4.
Cut front and back parts and mark dart shape on wrong side of the fabric. Cut two straight stripes of
fabric to finish the sleeves bottom. To finish neck either cut bias stripes of fabric or collar. There is
opening in back part to stitch buttons or attach zip. Cut straight stripes of fabric to finish opening.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back darts. Finish back open part with the straight stripes of fabric. Join front and back
shoulder on 7-8. Finish neck part with the bias stripes or with collar. Adjust gathers on sleeves bottom at
centre and join stripes of fabric to finish. Adjust gathers on sleeves top arm on A-5 and match with the
shoulder stitch of body. Join the sleeves. Adjust gathers on skirt and match with the lower waist of the
top part. Stitch together top and skirt. Fold bottom of skirt and hem.
UMBRELLA FROCK
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
WAIST LENGTH = chest 1
SHOULDER = CHEST 1
SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4
th
chest (middle arm length)
SKIRT LENGTH = full length top length + 1 for bottom fold
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TOP)
0-1 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1.5 for ease + for seam and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box by joining points 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 4-5
0-8 =Measure 1down for back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + down for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back
neck shape with the help of the French curve. .
4-10 =Measure width of the top and mark the point.
3-11 =Measure 1inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10 -11 with shape.
1-12 =Measure 3 for dart and mark the point.
12-13 and 12-14 =Measure both side and mark the point.
12-15 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1for the dart length and mark the point. Join 15 with 13, 12 & 14.


79
Draw front and back armhole shape on 5-6 & 10 as instructed for low waist frock.



SKIRT
On bias fabric two sides is fold.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure skirt length + 1for bottom fold + 1/6
th
chest and mark the point.
0-4 & 0-5 =Measure 1/6
th
chest and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 4-5 and on bottom flair 2-
1.
FLAIRED SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure half sleeves length and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.
3 =Measure a center point of 0-2 and mark the point.
3-4 =Measure inside and mark the point.
5 =Mark a center point of 0-3.
5-6 =Measure and mark the point.
4-7 =Measure 1 inside and mark the point.
2-8 =Measure same as 2-3 and mark the point.
Join 0-6-4-8 for back armhole shape and join 6-7-8 for front armhole shape. 1-9 is the bottom flair of the
sleeves as per choice. Join 8-9 as per shape.
Cut one front part and two back part for back opening. Cut two sleeves on bias fabric. Cut skirt. For
neck finishing either cut bias stripes of fabric or collar as per design. Cut straight stripes of fabric to
finish back opening.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back dart. Dart can be avoided for the design on front side. Finish back open by
stitching straight stripes of fabric. Zip can be attached. Join front and back shoulder. Finish neck with
bias stripes of fabric or with collar. Fold sleeves bottom and machine. Join two sleeves on top. Take a 4
wide fabric with skirt length for waist belt. Join two edges and one end and turn. Tack open end of belt
on the side seam of top on10 with hand needle. Fold the bottom edges of skirt and machine on 2-3. Join
together top and skirt. Finish umbrella frock with stitching buttons on back


80

DESIGNER PARTY FROCK
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6
WAIST LENGTH = chest 1
SHOULDER = CHEST 1
SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4
th
chest (middle arm length)
SKIRT LENGTH = full length top length + 1 for bottom fold.
Sheer fabric with lining is suitable material for designer frock. Ribbons, lace and show buttons can be
used for decorative purpose. Pre wash the lining material to remove starch and iron properly before
cutting. Here frock is decorated with frills and ribbons with puff sleeve and round collar.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS)
0-1 =Measure waist length + and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + 1 seam and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest for neck width and mark the point. .
0-8 =Measure 1 to 1 down for back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
chest + 1for front neck length and mark the point.
Draw front and back neck shape with French curve.
4-10 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + 1 seam and mark the point.
3-11 =Measure inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11.
1-12 =Mark 3 for dart.
12-13 =Measure & mark 3 for dart length.
12-14 and 12-15 =Measure + for dart and draw dart on 13-14 and 13-15.
Draw front and back armhole shape with the help of the French curve.


SKIRT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length waist length + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.


81
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 6 to 8 for gathers and mark the point. .
PUFF SLEEVE
Draw the puff sleeve pattern by following slash method which given in page no. 22 in this book.
BACK WAIST BELT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt same as skirt length + 2and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 3.5 width of the belt and mark the point. Measure 1 upside from 3-4 and join 1-
4 as per shape & cut.
ROUND COLLAR
Method to cut round collar is given in page no.17 of this book.
For designer party frock cut one front part, two back parts, two skirt part and two layer of collar. Cut
lining fabric same as main fabric parts. For collar only one piece of lining fabric is needed. Two puff
sleeves, two fabric strips of 1.5 wide and length of waist length to finish back open, one 1.25 wide
neck shape strip to finish neck line. Two 3 wide long strips of main fabric are required to stitch frills as
per the design of the party frock. Satin ribbon of same color of main fabric and zip according to waist
length is required. Cut two pieces of waist belt. Mark dart on the lining material of front and back parts.
STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS
Place the lining material on the wrong side of front and back of main fabric and fix with the alpine.
Stitch from side seam to armhole, shoulder and neck shape. Turn and press the seam properly. Stitch
front and back darts. Stitch zip (see page no. 14) to finish back open. Place two layers of collars by
keeping wrong side on top and on that place lining piece of collar and stitch outer circle along with ends.
Turn to right side from neck shape open area and press the seam. Cut a small notch mark on center of
neck and front part. Place the collar on the neck shape by matching notch mark and fix with alpines. On
top place neck shape strip and same way as collar and stitch. Press the seam and turn the neck strip on
wrong side. Fold other side edge of the strip and finish with hem. Finish the edges of puff sleeves and
frills with fine picot. Stitch and adjust the gathers on armhole shape and bottom girth of the sleeve At
the girth stitch ribbon at the distance from the edges by measuring of sleeve girth + 1 for ease +
for seam. Place sleeve according to the front and back armhole shape and start stitching from one end to
shoulder to adjust gathers at arm point. Stitch back waist belt on 0-1-4-2 as per shape from wrong side
and take out to right side from 0-2. Insert 0-2 part of waist belt 1away from 11 on both sides of the top
and fix with alpines. Join sides of top along with sides of sleeves. Fold the bottom edges of the lining
piece of skirt and stitch. Place lining fabric, skirt and frill all together and stitch gathers. Adjust gathers
according to waist of top and stitch to join. Adjust gathers on second strip of frill and place on skirt to
stitch 1 away from edges. On the stitching line of frill fix satin ribbon and stitch. Decorate the frock
with small bows of ribbons.
WAIST CUT FROCK WITH LACE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
CHEST = 20
LENGTH = chest 20 + 1 = 21
WAIST LENGTH= of chest 10+ = 10.5
SHOULDER = chest 10-1= 9
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS)
0-1 =Measure waist length 10.5+ = 11and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 5+ 1 ease + 1 seam = 7.5and mark the point.
1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 5for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder 4.5 + = 5 and mark the point.


82
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.


0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest 1.66+ = 2.approx for neck width and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1 to 2down for back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
chest 1.66+1= 2.5 front neck length. Draw front and back neck shape with
French curve.
4-10 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 5+ 1 ease + 1 for seam = 7.5 and mark the point.
3-11 =Measure inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11.
5-12 =Measure same as 0-8. Join 8-12 as a straight line.
13 =Measure center point of 7-5 and mark below on 8-12 line.
9-14 =Measure below and mark the point. Draw smooth V shape on 14-13 and join with 10 for
armhole shape.
SKIRT
0-3 And 2-3 =Measure full length 23 waist length 11.5 + 2 for bottom fold = 13.5 and mark the
point.
0-4 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 5.5 + 6 to 8 for gathers = 11.5 to 13.5 and mark the point.
WAIST BELT
Waist belt length will be same as skirt length with 3 width. Two waist belts are required for both sides.
This is a simple two piece frock drafting and so many adaptation can be done with this. To decorate
frock collar and puff sleeves can be attached. For the skirt part pleats can be chosen. To make it more
decorative, designer or party frock lace or net fabric can be used with satin lining and can be decorated
with frills, satin ribbons, bows or lace.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back dart. For the designer frock avoid front dart. Keep back opening to attach buttons
or zip can be attached. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes or collar. Finish the bottom of the
sleeves and stitch by matching front and back armhole shape. Stitch waist belt and fix both the pieces of
belt on two side seam of top above from waist end edges with alpines. Adjust gathers on skirt and
join with the top.
HALTER NECK FROCK WITH SMOCKING
MEASUREMENTS
CHEST = 18
LENGTH = chest
WAIST LENGTH = chest 9 1 = 7.5
SHOULDER = chest 9 1= 8
SKIRT LENGTH = full length 18 top length 7.5+ for bottom fold = 10.


83
For smocking take chest width and waist length of fabric of two pieces one for front and one for back
and stitch smocking by hand needle or sewing machine. Adjust smoking evenly and if wish decorate
with small embroidery stitches or beads. Now measure the smocked fabric for front and back and cut.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS)
0-1 =Measure waist length 7.5+ = 8and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 4.5 + 1 ease + 1seam = 7 and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 4.5 for armhole length and mark the point.
4-10 = Total width same as 0-2.
Here no need to draw neck and armhole shapes because back open is finished with zip and on front it is
halter neck design.
HALTER NECK STRAP
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure chest 18-2= 16 for the length of the halter neck strap.
0-2 & 1-3 = Measure 3.5 for the width of the halter neck strap.
4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2. Join 1-4 & 3-4.


SKIRT
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure full length 18 waist length 7.5= 10.5 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
chest 4.5+ 6 to 8 for gathers = 10.5to12.5and mark the point.
BACK WAIST BELT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt same as skirt length + 2and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 3.5 width of the belt and mark the point. Measure 1 upside from 3-4 and join 1-
4 as per shape & cut.
Cut one front part, one back part divide length of the skirt 10.5 in three equal parts. Cut three layers of
fabric strips by each 3.5+ 1= 4.5 width and for waist with 10.5 to 12.5, second with of the chest
and bottom with chest measurement. Cut halter neck straps on bias of the fabric. Cut two shoulder strap
is with 7length and 1 width. Cut straight strips to stitch zip to finish back open. Cut lining of fabric for
skirt.


84
STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS
Finish edges of layer for the skirts, base of the skirt fabric, halter neck strips and top edges of front and
back with picot. Finish back open by stitching straight strips of fabric along with zip. Mark the point
with 3.5-1=2.5 on 4 to place halter neck strip. One inch is to overlap each other at the center front.
Place halter neck strip and stitch to join. Stitch shoulder straps on armhole from front to back to make
the top firmed on body. Join front and back sides. Adjust gathers on layers in such a way that each layer
should be overlapped each other by 1 on lower side. Join skirt with top. Decorate halter neck frock by
stitching satin ribbon flowers on top of the front on left and right.



































85
ADAPTION OF DRESS PATTERNS WITH THE HELP OF BODICE BLOCK
To adapt any dress pattern, prepare a block with correct measurement of any size. Place the block on
another paper sheet and draw outline. Remove the block and draw the desired pattern on the redrawn
block outline. Here are some patterns given to follow.



Pinafore Blouse Skirt










86
WOMENS GARMENT

SARI PETTICOAT (six pieces)
MEASUREMENTS
FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle
WAIST = girth


PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length -2 for waist belt + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure width of the fabric 17 and mark the point.
0-4 =Measure 1/12
th
of waist + and mark the point.
3-5 =Measure 1/6
th
of waist + and mark the point. Join 4-5.
4-6 and 5-7 =Measure and mark 1 for shape.
WAIST BELT
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 4width of the belt and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure waist + 1and mark the point.
After cutting on fold there will be two pieces for centre front and centre back parts and on other side it
will be four pieces for side parts. Cut waist belt on fold on 0-1.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch two side parts with centre front part and same with centre back part as shown in figure.

Join front and back parts together on one side. Other side keeps 5open on waist and rest of the side join
together. Fold the edges on 5 open and stitch. Tack the waist belt on waist with hand needle and


87
machine. Press the stitch and fold the other side edges of waist belt and stitch. Turn the waist belt by
overlapping the first joining stitch, inside the petticoat and stitch. Trim the bottom flair on shape. Fold
the edges on flair and stitch. Stitch dory with a long strip of narrow fabric and insert in waist belt.
SARI PETTICOAT (eight pieces)
MEASUREMENTS
FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle
WAIST = girth
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length -2 for waist belt + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure half width of the fabric 17 and mark the point.
0-4 = Measure 1.5 and mark the point.
3-5 = Measure and mark the point. Join 1-4 and 2-5 as per shape.
4-6 and 5-7 = Measure 1/4
th
of waist girth + and mark the points. Join 6-7.
6-8 and 7-9 = Measure 1 for shape and mark the points. Join 2-8 and 1-9.
WAIST BELT
Waist belt will be same as in six pieces petticoat.


STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Place four pieces of one side as shown in the above figure. Same way stitch and join for other side by
keeping one side 5 open same as in six pieces petticoat. Rest of the stitching method is same as six
pieces petticoat.
NIGHTY GOWN
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
BUST = as per size
LENGTH = neck point to ankle
SHOULDER = width
SLEEVE LENGTH = half sleeve length
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
bust and mark the point for armhole length.
0-3 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.


88
3-4 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure 1/12
th
of bust + for neck width and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for back neck length and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust +1 for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape.
2-8 =Measure same as 0-3 and draw a square 0-2-8 & 3.
8-9 =Measure 1 upside and mark the point.
10 =Mark a center point of 2-8. Draw curve shape on yoke on 9-10.
2-11 =Measure bust + 6 to 8 for gathers and mark a point.
11-12 and 11-13 =Measure 1and draw curved shape.
1-14 =Measure same as 2-11and mark the point. Join 11-14. Draw front and back armhole shape.

SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure sleeves length + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2and mark the point. Draw a square 0-1-3-2
3-4 =Measure and mark 1 inside.
6 =Mark a center point of 0-2
2-5 =Measure same as 2-6 and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 2 upside for gathers and mark the point. Draw front and back armhole shape on a-6-5.
Join 5-4.Cut front and back yoke and bottom gather parts. Two sleeves required to join with two straight
stripes of fabric of 1 . Cut bias stripes of fabric to finish the neck. To finish front opening, cut two
straight stripes of fabric of 1 and 2 width. Lace can be used for decorative purpose.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Adjust gathers on front and back on 2-12 by matching 9-12. After adjusting gather 2-12 should be 1/4
th

of bust + 2 for ease and for seam. Join back and yoke together. On front yoke keep centre area
without gather up to 1 for opening and join front to gathered bottom. Lace can be inserted in between
the yoke and gathered bottom. Cut on front yoke to 2 down on bottom for opening. Finish front open
with straight stripes of fabric. Join front and back shoulder. Finish neck part with bias stripes of fabric
and lace. Adjust gathers on sleeves top on a and on sleeves bottom on 1. Join straight stripes of fabric on
sleeve bottom and finish. Join sleeves with yoke. Join two sides of gown along with sleeves to bottom.
Fold bottom edges and stitch. Stitch hooks or buttons with holes on front open to finish the gown.




89
PLAIN SALWAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
HIP = as per size
SEAT LENGTH = 1/3
rd
hip + 4to 6
LENGTH = lower waist to ankle
BOTTOM FLAIR = as per choice
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TWO LEG PARTS)
0-1 =Measure full length + 1- waist band length and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure half fabric width 17 and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a box by joining 0-1-3 & 2 points.
0-4 =Measure seat length and mark the point.
2-5 =Measure same as 0-4. Draw a rectangle 0-4-5 & 2.
1-6 =Measure half of bottom flair + 1 Join 5-6.
WAIST BAND
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt by 4 to 6+ 2 for nada and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure hip + 4for the width of the waist belt and mark the point.
Cut two legs of salwar as per measurement. Cut waist band. Cut 4 width stripes of fabric for bottom
flair + 2 and same buckram with 1 width. Cut narrow stripes of fabric to stitch dory.


SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join the 4width stripes of fabric by matching the centre point of leg to centre point of strip on the
bottom of both the leg on 1-5. Turn and press the stitch. Fold the stripe in
and insert the buckram and top stitch. Two to four parallel stitches should do on top of the buckram to
make it firm.


90

Stitch sides of two legs separately on 4-5. Join two legs to each other on 3-4. Fold the edges on 2-3 on
waist band and stitch. Fold 1-3 and stitch to insert dory. Join 3-5. Make a notch mark at the centre of
waist band on 4. Adjust gathers on both sides salwar front part in front direction as shown in the below
figure.

Match the notch mark on waist band with centre stitch on salwar and join salwar and waist band
together with adjusting gathers. Stitch dory with narrow stripes of fabric and insert in salwar waist band.
KALIDAR SALWAR
MEASUREMENTS are same as in plain salwar.


PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (KALI PART)
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + seat length and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip + and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2
0-4 and 3-5 =Measure seat length and mark the point. Join 4-5 on slant line.
CENTRE PART
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + 1- belt length and mark the point.
0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/6
th
hip + 1and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.
WAIST BAND
Same as in plain salwar.
Cut fabric stripes for bottom same as in plain salwar.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join straight part of kali 2-5 and 1-4 with the centre part of leg on 0-1 and 2-3. After joining kali with
two legs finish the bottom flair of salwar same as in plain salwar. Stitch two sides of salwar and join two


91
legs with each other and stitch. Adjust gathers on salwar. Fold the top of the waist band same as in plain
salwar. Join together salwar and waist band. Follow sewing method for plain salwar for rest of the thing.
PATIALA SALWAR
MEASUREMENTS are same as in plain salwar.
So much fullness or gathers gives elegant drape and look to Patiala salwar. For full ness fabric
estimation for the Patiala salwar is minimum 3.5 to 4 meter with 48 width.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (KALI PART)
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + seat length and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure width f the fabric and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.
0-4 and 3-5 =Measure seat length and mark the point. Join 4-5 on slant line.
CENTRE PART
0-3 And 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + 1- belt length and mark the point.
0-4 And 1-3 =Measure according to bottom flair or 20 minimum. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.


STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Stitching instruction is same as kalidar salwar.
CHURIDAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
HIP = girth
FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle + 10to 12 for chudi
SEAT LENGTH = 1/3
rd
hip + 4to 6
THAI = girth
KNEE = girth
BOTTOM = around
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TWO LEGS)
0-1 =Measure full length + 1+churi + 2 for nada fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip + 2 and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 2 and mark the point.
2-4 =Measure same as 0-3 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-3.
4-5 =Measure 1 out side and mark the point.


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6 =Mark a center point of 3-4 and draw a curve shape on 6-5.
1-7 =Measure bottom + for ease + for seam and mark the point.
1-8 =Measure churi length + 1 fold for bottom and mark the point.
8-9 =Measure of bottom + 1 for ease + for seam and mark the point.
10 =Mark a center point of 8-2.
10-11 =Measure knee + for ease + for seam and mark the point. Join 5-11-9 & 7.
Chudidar should place on bias fabric and may be continuous or with waist band. Cut straight stripes of
fabric to finish on legs on 6. Sometime a triangle piece of fabric joined on 5 for comfort. Length of this
piece is 1/8
th
hip and width is 4to 4 . Cut narrow stripes of fabric for dory.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
On 6 mark 5 above for opening to stitch hooks. Stitch straight stripes of fabric on sides of two legs to
finish opening. Fold bottom of the legs and stitch. If wish to join triangle piece for comfort on 5, join.
Stitch two sides of legs on 5-10-8-6. Join tow legs to each other on 3-5. To join waist band match centre
front to front and centre back to back of chudidar and waist band and stitch. Otherwise fold the top
edges of chudidar and stitch by keeping small opening to insert dory. Stitch dory with narrow stripes of
Fabric and insert in chudidar. Finish chudidar bottom to stitch hooks and hook holes.
FITTED KURTI
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
BUST = as per size
LENGTH = as per choice
SHOULDER = width
WAIST = girth
WAIST LENGTH = length up to middle waist
HIP = girth
FRONT NECK LENGTH = as per choice
SLEEVES LENGTH = as per choice
SLEEVES BOTTOM = according to length
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART)
0-1 =Measure full length + 1and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1for ease + for seam for the width of the kurta and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box on 0-1-3 & 2.


93
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
bust 1for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7
0-8 =Measure 6to 6 down for front length and mark the point.
4-9 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1for ease + 1for seam and mark the point
0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10-11 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + for ease + 1for dart (optional) + 1for seam and mark the point.
10-12 =Measure 7 down for hipline and mark the point.
12-13 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1for ease + for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-13 as per shape.
0-14 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1for dart and mark the point.
14-15, 12-16 & 10-17 =Measure 3 for dart and mark the point. Draw a straight line on 15-17-16.
17-18 and 17-19 =Measure + both side.

15-20 =Measure 1 down and mark the point. Draw dart shape on 20-18-16 and 20-19-16.
21 =Mark as the meeting point of 7 & 8.
22 =Mark as the center point of 7-21 and 23 as the center point of 8-21.
21-24 =Measure diagonally 1 outside and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 23-22 for front neck
shape with the help of the French curve.
5-6-25 =Draw a straight line.
26 =Mark a center point of 5-25.
26-27 =Measure inside and mark the point.
25-28 =Measure diagonally and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-27-28 & 9.
5-6 and 6a is a straight line. Take a middle point on 5-6a and from that point mark a point inside. Join
the point with 6 and 9 to draw front armhole shape.
BACK PART
Most of the point is same as in front only different is mentioned here.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for back neck length or as per choice. Draw back neck shape.
There is no need of point 15 for back dart. Join 18 and 19 upward with 14 and downward with 17.
PLAIN SLEEVE
0-1 =Measure sleeve length + for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
bust for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.
1-3 =Mark same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2


94
4 =Measure and mark a center point of 0-2 and mark 5 a center point of 0-4.
4-6 =Measure & on 5-8 it is and on 6-7 it is 1 and mark the points.
2-9 =Mark same as 2-4. (In case of short sleeve length take point 9 as middle point of 2-3)
1-10 =Measure sleeve bottom + 1for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10.
Join 0-8-6-9 for back armhole shape. Join 8-7-9 for front armhole shape.
Cut one front part, one back part and two sleeves. Mark dart points and seam line on front and back
wrong side. Cut stripes of fabric as per front and back neck shape to finish neck. Opening is optional,
can be on back or shoulder. To avoid dart dont add 1 on 10-11.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch front and back darts. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Place stripe for neck shape and tack
with hand needle and then machine. Turn and press the seam and fold inside and again tack with hand
needle. Hem neck stripe carefully to get a good finish. Fold the sleeve bottom edges and stitch. Mark a
notch on the centre of the sleeve on 0. Match notch with shoulder seam and join sleeves. Join front and
back sides on 9-11-13 along with sleeves side seam line. Trim the bottom edges if not even. Fold the
edges on open slit on 13-1 and on bottom flair 1-3 and stitch to finish the fitted kurti.
OVERLAP KURTA (Sleeve less)
MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME FOR FITTED KURTA
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-A and 1-B =Measure 5 extra for overlap design only for front part and mark the point.
0-1 =Measure full length of kurta + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1for ease + for seam+ 5 extra for overlap and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
bust 1 for armhole length and mark the point. (For sleeve follow other kurta)
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for the neck width and mark the point. Join 6-7.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for back neck length and mark the point.
4-9 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1 for ease + 1for seam and mark the point
0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10-11 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + for ease + 1 for seam and mark the point.
10-12 =Measure 7 down for hipline and mark the point.
12-13 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1for ease + for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-13 as per shape.
0-14 =Measure 6 to 6.5 for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-14 of front neck V shape and
extend it up to C on overlap part. Overlap part will be tied by small dory on side seam. Draw front and
back armhole shape. Plain sleeve drafting is given with fitted kurta drafting.
Cut front and back parts. Cut long bias stripes of fabric to finish front overlap along with neck. Cut
fabric strip of shape of front and back armhole. Lace or border can be joined to decorate the overlap.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Finish overlap along with neck by bias stripes of fabric, lace or
border. Finish back and front armhole with same shape of fabric strips. Join front and back sides on 10-
11-12. Side slit open is choice with overlap because front is already open. Fold bottom edges and stitch
to finish kurta. On overlap hooks with hook holes can be stitched or on both front part stitch small dory
to knot. Overlap kurta is always in trend and looks good with churidar.




95

A-LINE KURTA (with 3/4
th
length sleeve)
MEASUREMENTS SAME AS GIVEN FOR PREVIOUS KURTA
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length + 1and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1for ease + for seam for the width of the kurta and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box on 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
bust 1for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for the back neck length and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 6to 6 down for front length and mark the point.
4-10 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1for ease + 1for seam and mark the point
0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10-12 =Join a straight line.
12-13 =Measure 1inside for waist shape. Join 10-13-3 as per shape.

3-14 & 3-15 =Measure 1 for flair shape and mark the points. Join 14-15 with curve shape.
Draw front and back armhole shape.


96
For 3/4
th
sleeve pattern drafting see page 23 of this book. A-line kurta is a kind of loose fitting kurta.
There is no waist fit and on bottom there is flair. Side slit open is optional.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Join front and back shoulder. Finish front and back neck with same shaped strips of fabric, and finish
with hem. Fold sleeves bottom and join with kurta. Stitch two sides of front and back together on 10-13-
14. Fold edges on bottom flair and stitch.
FLAIRED KURTA (with full length sleeve)
MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME AS IN PREVIOUS KURTA
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length of the kurta and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust -1 for armhole length of the kurta.
0-3 =Measure widths of the shoulder + and mark the point.
3-4 =Measure down for the shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure 1/12
th
of the bust + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 4-5.
0-6 =Measure same as 0-5 for the back neck length and mark the point. Draw back neck shape.
0-7 =Measure 6 to 6.5 for the front neck length and mark the point. Draw front neck shape.
2-8 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust + 1 for ease + 1 for seam allowance and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
8-10 =Draw a straight line.
10-11 =Measure 1 inside and mark the point for shape. Join 8-11.
10-12 =Measure same as 8-10 and mark the point.
1-13 =Measure width of the fabric or as per choice for the flair and mark the point. Join 12-13.
13-14 =Measure 1.5 and 13-15 approx 5 for shape. Draw shape on 14-15. Draw back and front
armhole shape by following instructions given in previous kurta.



SEWING INSTRUCTION
Sewing method is same as for A-line kurta. Flared kurta should cut on bias fabric for well drape of the
fabric. Flared kurta also can be in two pieces with separate top with gathered skirt joining or on skirt


97


Part different frills can be joined for more flair. For two pieces flared kurta draft only up to waist length.
Only on 10-11 measure inside and mark. To join
Lining with the kurta see page no.12. For gather on skirt fabric width estimation will be waist girth +
16 minimum or more and length will be full length of kurta waist length. For frills skirt, divide the
length of the skirt in three equal length + for seam allowance. First top frill width will be same as
gathered skirt, width of the second frill will be 16 more than first one and width of the third and bottom
frill will be 32 more than second. Adjust gathers and join three frills together and join with top part.
Finish the edge of the bottom frill with picot.
PRINCESS LINE KURTA
MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME AS FOR FITTED KURTA

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
Drafting is same as fitted kurta. Given below instruction are to draw princess line.
0-15 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1 and mark the point.
15-16 =Measure 3 for the apex point and mark.
17 =Mark a center point of 5-19 on armhole shape.
1-18 =Mark same as 15-16. Join 16-18. Join 17-16-18 for princess line.


98
Princess line kurta is three piece kurta on front. For back part it is optional to cut in one piece or with
princess line. First cut the paper pattern of princess kurta and on fabric include seam line on princess
line on centre and side parts. For princess line kurta plain and printed fabric can be combined or on
centre part embroidery work can be done. Lace or piping can be attached within the princess seam line.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
First join the centre front part with two side parts. Rest of the method is same as fitted kurta
KALI CUT KURTA
MEASUREMENTS SAME FOR FITTED KURTA
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
Draw pattern same as princess kurta up to point 14.
0-15 and 1-16 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + 1 for kali and mark the point. Join 15-16 as a straight line.
FOR FISH KALI
13-17 =Mark same as 0-15. Measure 2.5 on both sides on 16-18 & 16-19. Join 18-17 & 19-17 as shape.
After cutting the paper pattern of kali kurta, place on fabric and add seam allowance on 14-16-15 on
centre part and two side parts. Fish kali part is an extra piece to increase flair. Cut other shape and parts
as in ordinary kurta.



SEWING INSTRUCTION
First join centre front and centre back part with two side parts. If fish kali is there that also stitch in the
first step. Follow the sewing method same as for fitted kurta.
LUCKNOW KURTA
MEASUREMENTS AS PER NORMAL KURTA
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK)
0-1 =Measure full length of the kurta + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure of shoulder + and mark the point. Join 2-3 as a straight line.


99
0-4 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + and mark the point for neck width.
0-5 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for back neck length and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + 1 for front neck length and mark the point.

6-7 =Measure and mark1/3
rd
bust 1for front open. Draw front and back curved neck shape.
2-8 =Measure full sleeves length + and mark the point.
2-9 =Measure 1/4
th
bust -1 and mark the point.
8-10 =Measure same as 2-9 less 1 and mark the point. Join 9-10 with shape.
9-11 =Measure 1/4
th
of 2-9 measurement + and mark the point.
3-12 =Measure same as 2-9 and mark the point. Join 11-12 with shape.
11-13 =Measure 1/12
th
bust and mark the point.
11-14 =Measure 1/6
th
bust 1and mark the point. Join 13-14.
Cut one centre front part, one back centre part, four side kali parts and two sleeves. 11-13-14 is a square
piece of fabric to join on under arm area. Cut two square piece for under arm with all sides of 1/6
th
bust
1Cut front and back neck shape fabric stripes. Two straight stripes of fabric of 1 & 2 width and
length 1 more than 6-7 is required to finish front open.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Slit the front centre part 1/3
rd
bust 1for opening. Finish front open with the fabric strips. For kurta
placket stitching instruction see page 14. Finish front and back neck shape with same shape of fabric
stripes. Join kali parts on 3-9-11-15 for front and back parts. Fold the sleeves bottom on 8-9 and stitch.
Join sleeves on 2-9. Join square piece on 11-13-14. Join under arms of sleeves. Join side parts of front
and back together on 14-15. Stitch buttons with holes on front open to finish the kurta.
ANARKALI KURTA
MEASUREMENT
Measurement required same as for flared kurta.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION ( Top)
0-1 =Measure waist length + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust + 1 for ease + 1 for seam and mark the point for the width.
1-3 =Measure same and mark as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust -1 for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for the back neck length and mark the point.


100

0-9 =Measure 6 to 6.5 for front neck length and mark the point.
4-10 =Measure total width of the top and mark the point.
3-11 =Measure 1 inside for waist shape and mark the point. Join 10-11.
12 =Draw as the meeting point of 7 & 9. Draw front and back neck shape.
Draw 5-6-13 a straight line. Mark 14 as the center point of 5-13. Draw back armhole shape on 6-14-10.
Measure inside from 14-15 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-15-10.
ANARKALI SKIRT
Measurement of 1-2 is girth of waist + 1. Divide this measurement in equal parts of required
number of kali. Cut a straight strip of kali and place it on another paper. Mark the outline and increase
flair in inches on both sides of bottom equally and mark as shown in above figure. Cut all the required
number of kali and arrange them to join and tack.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Generally fabric of designer kurta is to be stitched with lining. To cut and stitching lining see
instructions in page 12. Finish the opening if it is there. Join shoulders together. Finish front and back
neckline. Join sleeves if there any, or finish armhole for sleeveless. Join side seams of top. Arrange skirt
of kali and stitch with top to finish the kurta.
PLAIN BELTED BLOUSE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
BUST = as per size
LENGTH = waist length minimum 14
SHOULDER = width
FRONT NECK LENGTH = 5.5 to 6 as per choice
BACK NECK LENGTH = minimum 6.5 or more as per choice
SLEEVES LENGTH =short or medium as per choice
SLEEVE BOTTOM = circumference
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (Back Part)
0-1 =Measure waist length + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + for ease + 1for seam for the total width of the blouse and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure and mark same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
bust 1 for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust + for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.


101



0-8 =Measure back neck length and mark the point. Back neck length can be down to point 4.
4-9 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + for ease + 1for seam as width of the blouse and mark the point.
1-10 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 1 for dart + 1for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10.
1-11 =Measure 3 for dart and mark the point.
11-12 =Measure 1/3
rd
of blouse length for the length of the dart and mark the point.
11-13 & 11-14 =Measure and join 13-12 and 14-12 for the shape of the dart.
15 =this the meeting point of 8 and 7. Measure 16 as the center point of 8-15 and 17 as the center point
of 7-15. Draw a curve shape on 16-17 with French curve to draw back neck shape.
5-6-18 is a straight line. 19 is the center point of 5-18. Measure 1 outside from 18-20 and mark the
point. Draw a curve shape on 19-20-9 with French curve to draw back armhole shape.
Cut back part on 8-16-17-7-6-19-20-9-10.
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure waist length + 2 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust + 1 for ease + 1 for seam allowance for the width and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
Measure 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 and 0-8 same as in back part and mark the points.
0-8 =Measure front neck length and mark the point.
4-9 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point.
1-10 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 1for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10.
1-11 =Measure 1/12
th
of bust + upside for the width of the waist belt.
1-12 =Measure 1 less than 1-11 and mark the point. Join 11-12.
0-13 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust for the dart and mark the point.
13-14 =Measure 3 for the apex point of bust for center front dart.
11-15 =Measure same as 13-14 and mark the point for waist dart. Join 14-15 as a straight line.
12.16 =Measure 1.5 upside and mark the point for side seam dart.
23-17 =Measure 1 upside and mark the point for armhole dart. Join 13-14, 15-14, 16-14 & 17-14. Mark
14-a, 14-b, 14-c and 14-d each 1 distance for dart. Measure + on both sides of 13, 16 and 17 for
the dart. Measure 1 on 15-18 & 15-19 for waist dart and mark the point. Join 13-a, 16-c & 17-d for the
dart shape. Join 18-b and 19-b for waist dart shape.
20 =this the meeting point of 8 and 7. Measure 21 as the center point of 7-20 and 22 as the center point
of 8-20. Draw a curve shape on 21-22 with French curve to draw front neck shape.
5-6-23 is a straight line. 24 is the center point of 5-23. Measure outside from 23 and mark the point.
Measure 24-25 inside and mark the point. Join 6-25 & 9 with French curve to draw front armhole


102
shape. Extend 12-26 by 2 outside and join 9-26 as per shape to cover 2 for waist dart. After stitching
dart blouse will become in original shape.
Cut front part on 8-22-21-7-6-25-9 & 26. Cut and separate waist belt on 26-12-18-15-19 &11.
PLAIN SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure sleeves length + 1 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-4
4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2.
5 =Mark as the center point of 0-4.
5-6 =Measure inside and mark the point.
4-7 =Measure and 7-8 by 1 inside mark the point.
2-9 =Measure same as 2-4and mark the point. Mark 9 as a middle point of 2-3 for short length of sleeve.
Join 0-6-7 & 9 for back armhole shape & join 6-8-9 for front armhole shape.
1-10 =Measure 1 for bottom fold and mark the point.
1-11 =Measure half of bottom girth + 1 for seam and mark the point.
10-12 =Measure and mark same as 1-11. Join 11-12.
11-13 =Measure 1 out side and mark the point. Join 12-13 with shape.
Cut sleeve on 0-6-7-9-12-13 on fold. Open the fold and cut front armhole shape on 6-8-9.
Cut one back part, two front part, two sleeves and four piece of waist band. Straight stripes of fabric are
required to finish front open and back waist. Cut bias stripes of fabric, or as per neck shape to finish
neck shape. Mark the darts and seam line on front and back parts on wrong side by placing carbon paper
in between paper pattern and fabric with the help of tracing wheel.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold the sleeves bottom on 10-12 and hem. Stitch darts on back part and join straight strip of fabric on
back waist. Press the seam and turn the back waist strip and hem. Stitch straight darts on front part on 13
and 15. Now stitch cross darts on 16 and 17. Place the front part in between the two piece of waist band
and join on 11-12-26. Roll the blouse inside of waist belt to join the two piece of waist belt on 1-10.
Take out the blouse from side open and press the seam. Turn the waist band and join on 1-10. Join front
and back on shoulder on 7-6. Stitch cross stripes of fabric to neck shape. Press the seam and turn, fold
the edges and hem, see page no.10. Match side seam of front and back from waist and trim on armhole
shape if necessary. Join sleeves with blouse. Stitch on sides of front and back on 9-10 along with
sleeves. Stitch hooks with hook holes and finish the blouse.
KATORI CUT BLOUSE
MEASUREMENTS SAME AS GIVEN FOR BELTED BLOUSE
Back part is same as in plain belted blouse and cut.
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure waist or blouse length + 2 and mark the point.
Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10, 1-11, 10-12, 0-13, 13-14, 11-15, 15-16 & 15-17
same as in front part of plain blouse. Mark all the points as per instruction.
12-18 =Measure 1/12
th
of bust and mark the point.
23-19=Measure 1/12
th
of bust and mark the point. Join 20-19 & 18 as curved shape for katori.
Draw neck and armhole shape same as in plain blouse. Cut katori blouse in three pieces. Separate belt
on 11-12. Cut 8-21-22-7-6-25-9-12-11. Separate armhole and katori parts on 18-19 & 20. Redraw katori
piece to add extra fabric allowance for dart and seam.
Extend 18 up to A by 2 outside. A-B = 1 upside for shape. Join 17- B and 19-B as per shape. This is
the final piece of katori part. Sleeve is same as given in belted blouse.


103


Cut one back part on fold. Cut two pieces of armhole part, two pieces of choli part and four pieces of
waist belt part. Cut two sleeves. One straight strip of fabric required for back waist, two straight stripes
for front open and cross stripes to finish neck. Mark darts and seam line on the wrong side of blouse.
Fold the bottom edges of sleeves and hem.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch back dart on. Join strip of fabric on waist, fold the edges and hem. Stitch darts on katori part.
Match both side ends of katori and armhole parts on 20 & 18 and fix with alpines or tack with hand
needle. Join katori with armhole part on 20-19-18. Rest of the stitching method of katori blouse is same
as plain belted blouse.
CHOLI CUT BLOUSE
Measurement and back part pattern drafting will be same as for plain darted or katori cut blouse.
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure waist or blouse length + 2 and mark the point.
Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10, 1-11, 10-12, 0-13, 13-14 same as in front part of
plain blouse. Mark all the points as per instruction.
12-15 =Measure 1/12
th
of bust and mark the point.
26-16 = Measure 1/12
th
of bust and mark the point.
23-17 =Measure 1 upward and mark the point. Join 17, 16 & 15 as curved shape same as katori.
13-18 =Draw a straight line for choli shape.
18-19, 18-20, 13-21, 13-22 =Measure up and down side for shape and mark the point. Join 19, 20,
21 & 22 with 14 as per shape.
Draw front neck shape on 8-25-24-7 and armhole shape on 6-28 & 9.
Cut and separate waist belt part on 11-12. Cut choli blouse on 8-15-14-7-6-28-9-12. Separate armhole
and choli part on 15-16 & 17. Separate two pieces of choli on 13-14-18. Place these choli pieces on
another paper and draw outline.



104


For the top part of choli extend 18-a, a-b & 13-c by and mark the points. 14-e is a straight line.
Redraw the shape by joining points 13-e, a-e and 17-a with curved shape.
For the bottom part of choli extend 13-h, 18-f, 15-I and 11-J by outside and mark the point. 14-g is a
straight line. Redraw the shape by joining points 13-g-18-I and j.
For choli cut blouse cut one back, two waist belt ( each double layer), two front armhole parts, two choli
pieces of top and bottom, two sleeves, straight stripes for back waist, and hook stripes and bias stripes to
finish the neck line. 6 no. of hooks required to finish front open. Mark side seam line and finish the
bottom of sleeves by hemming.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Stitch back darts and straight strip of fabric to finish back waist line. Fold the strip on wrong side and
hem. For front part join one top and one bottom part of choli on 13-e-a and 13-g-i.Rest of the stitching
instruction is same as katori blouse.
RAGLON BLOUSE
Measurement will be same as other blouse. Raglan cut blouse is to be cut with plain waist belted design.
Only armhole and sleeve part is mentioned here.
PATTERN DRAFTING (FRONT &BACK PART)
Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10 points same as in plain darted blouse.
7-11 =Measure 1 down and mark the point. Join 11-9 with diagonal line. Cut parts on 8 with neck
shape, 11, 9 and 10.
RAGLAN SLEEVE
Place part on another paper and draw the outline of 9 -11-7-6. Extend 6-12 as shape with length + fold
and mark the point. Measure 12-13 half of sleeve bottom + 1 for seam allowance and mark the point.





105
Measure and mark 14 as the center point of 9-13. Measure upside from 14-15 and mark the point.
Draw curve shape on 9-15-13. Measure and mark 18 as the center point of 9-17. Measure upside
from 18-19 and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 17-19-9. Cut raglan sleeve on 7-11-17-9-15-13
with back armhole shape. Open the fold and cut 17-19-9 for the front armhole shape.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Follow stitching instruction of plain waist belted blouse. Fold the raglan sleeve bottom and finish with
hem. Match sleeve at point 11-9 with blouse and stitch to join continue with 9-15-13 points. On sleeve
joining piping can be inserted.
HIGH NECK BLOUSE
Measurement will be the same as for other blouses.
BACK PART
Measure 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 4-9 & 1-10 same as in plain waist belt blouse and mark the
points. Measure 7-8 up side by for high neck for back and mark the point. Join 0-8-6 as per shape.
Cut back part on 0-8-6-12-9 & 10.

FRONT PART
Measure 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 points same as in back part.
0-8 =Measure front neck length by 6 to 6.5 as per choice and mark the point.
7-9 =Extend 1/12
th
of bust as per shape and mark the point.
9-10 =Measure 1 and mark the point. Join 9-10 & 8 as per shape.
4-11 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point.
1-12 =Measure 1/4
th
of waist and mark the point.
Measure and mark 13-14-&15 points and draw front armhole shape by following for other blouses
instructions. High neck can be done with any cut of blouse.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Cut a continuous strip of fabric for neck shape. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7 of
front and 6-8 of back. Join 9-10 of front neck shape if it is open. Match 9-10 point of front neck shape
with 0 of back and join with back neck shape on 0-8. Match neck strip on front with 8 and on 9-10 at the
center of back and fix with alpine or tack with hand needle. Stitch and turn to press the seam towards
wrong side. Fold the unstitched edges of strip and finish with hem. Here only finishing of high neck part
has given. Follow the stitching instructions of the cut of the blouse which has cut with high neck.


106
DESIGNER PRINCESS CUT BLOUSE
Measurement will be same as for any other blouse.
PATTERN DRAFTING (front and back )
0-1 =Measure waist length + 2 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust + 1 for ease + 1 for seam allowance for the width and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure of shoulder width +

and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for the shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
of bust for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.
0-8 =Measure front neck length and mark the point. Draw front neck shape.
0-9 = Measure back neck length and mark the point. Draw back neck shape.
4-10 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point.
1-11 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 1for seam and mark the point. Join 10-11.
0-12 =Measure 1/4
th
of bust + 1 and mark the point.
12 -13 =Measure 3 for the apex point of bust and mark the point.
1-14 =Measure same as 12-13 and mark the point. Join 13-14 as a straight line.
5-6 & 15 is a straight line. Measure and mark 16 as the center point of 5-15. Join 16-13 as a curved
shape with the help of the French curve.
16-17 =Measure inside and mark the point. Join 6-16-10 for the back armhole shape and 6-17-10 for
the front armhole shape with the help of the French curve.
Mark 18 as the meeting point of 7 & 8. Mark 19 as the center point of 8-18 and 20 as the center point of
18-7. Draw curve shape on 19-20 for the front neck line. Extend 18 up to 21 at the front neck point.
Mark 22 as the center point of 9-21. Draw curve shape on 22-18 for the back neck shape. Always draw
front and back parts on separate paper due to the difference of neck and armhole shape.
Cut princes blouse on 9-22-18-7-6-16-10-11 for the back part and on 8-19-20-7-6-17-10-11 for the front
part. Separate princess cut on 16-17-13 & 14. Place center and side part of princess on another paper and
draw outline as per shape. Add extra on outside of the point 16-13-14 for both center and side parts
as shown in below figure. Now mark and cut the final parts of princess blouse.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
First join two side pieces of princess cut with the center part by matching the shape. Press the seam on
right side of the blouse. Rest of the stitching instruction for neck finishing, sleeve stitching and others
are same as any other blouse.





107
LINING BLOUSE
MEASUREMENTS
For any type of lining blouse always keep to extra on shoulder and side seam to join lining.
Cut main fabric and lining material same.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Mark all the darts and side seam allowance on the lining parts of the blouse. First join lining parts with
the main fabric parts on shoulder and side seam. Neck shape, armhole shape and darts should be tacked
with the hand needle for the convenience to stitch on machine because of two layer of material. Follow
rest of the stitching instruction same as the type of the blouse cut.
GHAGHRA OR LAHENGA
MEASUREMENT
Measure ghaghra length from waist to ankle.
There are different type of cuts and drapes of ghaghra or lahenga.
GATHERED GHAGHRA
For ghathered ghaghra cut 3 wide and waist + 2 length a strip of fabric for nefa. Adjust gather on the
ghaghra according to nefa and keep 4 open on side seam. Finish side open with stitching a zip. Fold
both the ends and one side edge of nefa and stitch. Place nefa on one corner of open on right side and
continue to tack with full ghaghra till other end. Stitch with machine. Press the seam on front. Overlap
the stitched edges on the joining of nefa and stitch just on joining. Fold the bottom edges of ghaghra and
stitch. Stitch nada with s narrow and long strip of fabric and finish both the ends with bids hangings.
Insert nada in the nefa part to finish the ghaghra.
KALIDAR GHAGHRA
For kalidar ghaghra required number of kali mark and cut. To draw and cut kali follow the same method
of 8 piece of petticoat at page no. 83. Place all the kali according to desired design and stitch together.
Finish nefa, side open, bottom and nada same as for gathered ghaghra.
UMBRELLA CUT GHAGHRA
For umbrella cut ghaghra fabric with maximum width is required. Draw the pattern same as umbrella
frock skirt on page no. 78 and cut. Finish the bottom flair of ghaghra and stitch nefa same as for other
ghaghra. Finish side open and stitch nada to insert to finish umbrella cut ghaghra.
MARMAID CUT GHAGHRA
Marmaid cut of ghaghra is narrow above the knee and bottom is flared. Slash method should be
followed to cut this type of pattern of ghaghra.
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure full length of the ghaghra 1 nefa width + 2for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure width of the fabric and mark the point.
0-4 & 2-5 =Measure 1/4
th
of total length of ghaghra and mark the point. Join 4-5 with a straight line.
X =Measure a center point of 0-2. From X-6 & X-7 Measure 1/4
th
of the waist girth + to and
mark the point. Join 4-6 and 5-7. Divide 4-5 in equal number of parts required and mark 8-9-10-11 &
12. Same way measure and mark 13-14-15-16 & 17 and mark the points to join with above points with
straight lines. Now cut slash on 8-13, 9-14, 10-15, 11-16 & 12-17. Place this pattern on another paper
and redraw the outline of 0-4-5-2 as it is. Spread the bottom flair on 1-13-14-15-16-17-3 in equal
distance as shown in below figure. Draw new flair shape on 1-3 and join with 4-5 with shape. Stitching
method of this ghaghra is same as umbrella ghaghra.




108



GATHERED GHAGHRA KALIDAR GHAGHRA


UMBRELLA CUT GHAGHRA MARMAID CUT GHAGHRA





109
WOMENS SHIRT
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
LENGTH = up to lower waist or as per choice
BUST = as per size
WAIST = girth
HIP = girth
WAIST LENGTH = up to middle waist
SHOULDER = width
SLEEVES LENGTH =full or half as per choice
ELBOW =girth
BACK PART
0-1 =Measure full length + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1 for ease + 1for seam and mark the point for the width of the shirt.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
bust for armhole length and mark the point.
4-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
bust for neck width and mark the point. Join 6-7.
7-8 =Measure up ward for back neck for collar and mark the point. Join 8-6. Draw a curve shape on
0-8 with the help of the French curve for back neck shape.
4-9 =Measure 1/4
th
bust + 1 for ease + 1seam and mark the point.
0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point.
10-11 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 1for ease + 1for dart + 1 for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-3 as
per shape.
0-12 =Measure 1/4
th
bust +1 for dart and mark the point.
12-13 =Measure 3 for the apex point of bust for dart and mark the point.
10-14 =Measure and mark same as 12-13.
14-15 =Measure and mark same as 13-14.
14-16 & 14-17 =Measure + for dart width. Join 13-16-15 & 13-17-15 for dart shape.
5-6-18 =Draw a straight line on armhole of the shirt. Measure and mark 19 as center point of 5-18. Draw
curve shape on 19-9 with the help of French curve to draw back armhole shape. Cut back part of shirt on
0-8-6-19-9-11 & 3 as per shape.




110

FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure full length + 2 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-A & 1-B =Measure 1 extra outside for front placket and mark the point. Join A-B as a straight line.
0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 4-9, 10-11, 0-12, 12-13, 10-14, 14-15, 14-16 & 14-17 points are same as for
back part.
0-8 =Measure same as 1/12
th
bust + and mark the point. Join 7-8 as V shape.
13-18 =Measure 1 down for front dart shape and mark the point. Join 18-16-15 & 18-17-15 for front
dart shape. Measure 19 as center point of 7-8 on neck shape and mark the point. From 19 measure
inside and mark the point. Draw front neck shape on 8-19-7 with curved shape.
5-6-20 is the points in a straight line on armhole. Measure and mark 21 as a center point of 5-20 and
mark the point. Measure inside on 21-22 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-22-9.
Cut front part on 8-7-6-22-9-11 & 3 as per shape.
SLEEVES
See page 23, 24 & 26 for full sleeve with cuff.
COLLAR
See page no.20 for shirt collar.
Cut one back part, two front part and two sleeves. Two pieces of collar is required. Draw dart shape on
front and back parts and mark seam line on wrong side of shirt.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Tack front placket with the hand needle. Stitch front and back darts. Join front and back shoulder on 8-7
& 6-8. Place two collar pieces front to front inside and stitch on wrong side to join together, see page 20.
Join together sleeves and shirt. Fold the bottom edges of shirt and stitch. Stitch buttons with holes on
front placket to finish the shirt.
LADIES TROUSER
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
LENGTH = waist to ankle
HIP = girth
WAIST = girth
CROCHET LENGTH = 1/3
rd
hip
BOTTOM = as per choice
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure full length of the trouser belt width + 1 for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure crochet length and mark the point.
2-3 =Measure as 0-2 2 and mark the point.
2-4 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure same as 2-4 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-5.
4-6 =Measure 2 to 2 outside and mark the point. Draw a straight line on 5-4.


111

7 =Mark a center point of 4-5. Draw crochets shape on 5-7-6 with French curve.
8 =Mark a center point of 0-5 for front pleat.
8-9 and 8-10 =Measure and mark each for pleat
11 =Mark a center point of 2-6.
3-12 and 1-13 =Mark same as 2-11. Join 11-12-13 a straight line.
13-1 and 13-15 =Measure and mark bottom + for seam.
1-16 =Measure outside and mark the point. Join 2-16 with shape.
0-17 =Measure 1 and mark the point.
0-18 =Measure 2 and mark the point. Join 17-18 with curve shape.
BACK PART
Redraw front part with same point and shape respectively.
5-8 =Measure 1 upside and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/4
th
of waist + 2 and mark the point. Join 0-8 as per shape.
9 =Mark as a center point of 0-8. On 9 and 10 measure each side, means 1 on 9 and 1 on 10, and
mark the point for waist dart for back. Length of the dart will be 2 . Draw the dart shape.
Mark 11,12,13,14 points same as in front part.
14-16 & 15-17 extend by out side and mark the point.
6-18 =Extend by 2 outside and mark the point. Join 8-18-16-17 as per shape.
0-19, 2-20, 3-21 & 1-22 extend outside by and mark the point. Join 0-19-21-22 with shape.
Cut back part on 22-21-20-19-0-8-18-17-16 as per shape.
WAIST BELTS
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure width of waist belt one is 1 and the other is 2 width.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure waist + and mark the point.
4 =Measure and mark as a center point of 0-2.
4-5 =Measure inside and mark the point.
6 = Measure and mark as a center point of 1-3.
6-7 =Measure out side and mark the point. Draw shape on 0-5-2 and 1-7-3.
ZIP STRIP
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure1/3
rd
hip 2 for the length of the strip and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 2 for the width of the strip and mark the point. On 3 mark a inside and draw
shape.


112
Cut two front parts, two back parts, three pieces of zip strips and two pieces of each waist belt with one
piece of buckram of narrow belt. For side seam pocket lining fabric is required.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch back darts and tack front pleat with hand needle. Stitch zip on two front parts, see page no.14-15.
Stitch side seam pockets or patch pockets on 17-18-2, see page no.13. Join side parts of trouser on 2-3-
16 and 20-21-22. Join inner leg parts of front and back on 6-7-5 and 8-18. Fold one side edges of wide
waist belts on 1-7-3 and stitch. Join one narrow and one wide waist belts together on 1-0-6-2. Turn and
press the seam. Place the buckram piece in between the two waist belt and stick with hot iron by
matching to joining seam. Match the narrow waist belt with point 5 of front and join towards back up to
8. Repeat same for another side. Press the seam by turning wide belt piece on wrong side. Stitch just on
the joining of belt from right side to stitch wide waist belt on wrong side belt. Fold the bottom of the
trouser and stitch. Finish trouser with stitching a hook on front waist belt.
MENS GARMENTS
PLAIN PYJAMA FOR GENTS
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
HIP = as per size
SEAT = chest + 1 or 2
WAIST = as per size
LENGTH = as per measurement
BOTTOM = as per choice
0-1 =Measure full length of pajama + 2 for bottom fold + 2 fold on waist for elastic and mark a point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip 1 for crochet length and mark the point.
0-3 & 2-4 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 2 to 2 and mark the point. Join 3-4 as a straight line.
4-5 =Measure 1 outside and mark the point.
1-6 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip + for the bottom of the pajama and mark the point. Join 5-6.
7 =Mark as the center point of 3-4.
4-8 =Measure 1 outside on cross and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 7-8-5 with French curve.
Cut front part on paper on 0-3-7-8-5-6 and place on another paper and redraw the outline. Remove front
part and extend few points to get back part.




113
BACK PART
5-9 =Measure 1 outside and mark the point.
6-10 =Measure 1 outside and mark the point. Join 9 10 with shape.
3-11 =Measure inside and mark the point. Join 9-11with shape and extend up to 12 by 1 . Join 0-
12 with shape.
13 =Measure and mark a center point of 3-7.
13-14 =Measure and draw shape on 12-14-9.
Cut back part on 0-12-14-9-10. Cut two front and two back parts. Pockets are on choice. Side seam
pockets can be attached. Cut a 2 width strip for the waist according to measurement of pajama.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
First stitch pockets, if there is any. Join front and back sides on 0-2-1. Join inner legs of front and back
on 5-6 and 9-10. Fold one side edges of waist strip and stitch. Join on waist part and stitch by keeping a
small opening to insert elastic. Fold bottom edges and stitch. Insert 1 width of elastic by measuring
1/3
rd
of waist girth and insert on waist line. Join both the ends of the elastic.
PANT TYPE PAJAMA
MEASUREMENTS SAME AS FOR PLAIN PAJAMA
FRONT
0-1 =Measure full length belt width + 1 bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip 1and mark the point.
0-3 & 2-4 =Measure 1/4
th
hip + 1and mark the point. Join 3-4 as a straight line.
4-5 =Measure 1 outside and mark the point.
6 =Measure and mark as a center point of 3-4.
4-7 =Measure on cross 1 outside and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 6-7-5 with French curve.
1-8 =Measure 1/4
th
hip for the bottom flair +1 and mark the point. Join 5-8.
3-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of waist + 2 and mark the point.
0-10 =Measure and mark 7 down for the opening of the side seam pocket. Join 9-10.
1-11 =Measure inside and mark the point for shape. Join 2-11.
12 =Mark as the center point of 3-9 for pleat. 2-13 & 11-14 is same as 9-12.
Cut front part on 11-2-10-9-3-6-7-5-8. Place front part on another paper and draw outline for back.






114

BACK PART
3-15 =Measure inside and mark the point.
5-16 =Measure 2 outside and mark the point. Join 16-15 and extend up to 17 by 1 upside.
8-18 =Measure outside and mark the point. Join 16-18 with shape. 19 is the center point of 3-12 for
2 length dart for back. Cut back part on 11-2-10-9-17-15-16-18.
POCKET
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip + 4 for the length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4
th
waist 1 for the width of the pocket and mark the point.
1-4 and 3-5 =Measure and mark 1 upside.
6 =Mark as a center point of 1-3. Draw shape on 4-6-5
WAIST BAND
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 2 and 2 for the width of the two piece of waist band.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure waist + 2 and mark the point.
4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2.
4-5 =Measure inside and mark the point.
6 = Mark as the center point of 1-3
6-7 =Measure outside and mark the point. Draw shape on 0-5-2 and 1-7-3
ZIP STRIP
0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/3
rd
hip 2 for the length of the strip and mark the point.
0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 2 for the width of the strip and mark the point.
3-4 =Measure 1 upside for shape and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 1-4.
Cut two front parts, two back parts, two pockets, two pieces of each waist bands and three pieces of zip
strip. Buckram can be inserting in waist band. A 7length zip is required and a pair of hook for waist.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Stitch darts on back on 12 & 19. Tack pleats on 12 on front with the hand needle. Stitch pockets on 9-
10-2, see page no.13. Follow the instructions to stitch zip on front as given in the page no. 14-15. Join
two sides of front and back on 10-2-11. Join inner legs on 5-8 and 16-18. Join front and back seat on 17-
16 & 3-7-5. Fold one side edges of wide waist belts on 1-7-3 and stitch. Join one narrow and one wide
waist belts together on 1-0-6-2. Turn and press the seam. Place the buckram piece in between the two
waist belt and stick with hot iron by matching to joining seam. Match the narrow waist belt with point 5
of front and join towards back up to 8. Repeat same for another side. Press the seam by turning wide belt
piece on wrong side. Stitch just on the joining of belt from right side to stitch wide waist belt on wrong
side belt. Fold the bottom of the pajama and stitch. Finish pajama with stitching a hook on front waist.
GENTS KURTA
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
LENGTH = Down to knee or as per choice
CHEST = Circumference
SHOULDER = Width
SLEEVE LENGTH = Full sleeve length
SLEEVES BOTTOM = Circumference
NECK = 1/3
rd
of chest + 2 to 3
0-1 =Measure full length of kurta + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
of chest + 4 for the width of the kurta as bottom flair and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a block 0-1-3 & 2.


115
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure of chest 1 and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure of shoulder + and mark the point.
6-7 =Measure 1 down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12
th
chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 7-8.

0-9 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest -1 for back neck and mark the point for round neck shape and down
for mandarin collar and mark the point.
0-10 =Measure 1/12
th
of chest + 1 for front neck length for round neck shape. Measure 1/12
th
of chest
for mandarin collar and mark the point.
0-11 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 for the front open of the kurta and mark the point.
4-12 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 2 and mark the point.
12-13 =Draw a straight line or measure 5-13 same as 4-12. Join 12-13.
13-14 =Measure inside and mark the point for shape. Join 12-14-3 with shape.
14-15 =Measure 2 down and mark a point for side pocket.
15-16 =Measure 16
th
of chest for the opening of the pocket.
16-17 =Measure of 15-16 and mark the point. 17-3 is the open for the side slit.
3-18 =Measure 1 upside for shape and mark the point.
3-19 =Measure 2 on bottom flair for shape and mark the point. Draw shape on 18-19.
20 =Mark a meeting point of 9, 10 & 8. Draw curve shape for back and front neck with French curve.
6-7-21 is a straight line on armhole. Mark 22 as a center point of 6-21. Draw back armhole shape on 7-
22-12 with French curve. Measure inside on 22-23 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on
7-23-12 with French curve. Cut back part on 9, 8, 7, 22, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 & 1. Cut front part on
10, 8, 7, 23, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 & 1.
SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure full length of sleeves + 1 and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2
4 = Mark as a centre point of 0-2.
5 =Mark as a centre point of 0-4.
2-6 =Measure and mark same as 0-4.
5-7 =Measure and mark inside.


116
4-8 = Measure and mark inside.
8-9 =Measure and mark 1 inside.
3-10 =Measure 1 inside and mark the point for sleeve bottom. Join 6-10.
10-11 & 10-12 =Measure 1 and mark the points for shape. Draw curve shape on 11-12.
Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape. Cut full sleeve on 0-7-8-6-12-
11. Open the sleeve and cut front armhole shape on 7-9-6.
POCKET
0-1and 2-3 =Measure chest + 1 length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/8th chest for the width of the pocket and mark the point.
2-4 =Measure 1 down for shape. Join 0-4.
5 =Measure centre point of 2-3 + 1 more on 3-5.
6 =Measure centre point of 4-5.
6-7 =Measure and mark inside for shape. Join 4-7-5.
STAND COLLAR
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1 to 1 for the height of the collar and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/6
th
chest + 1 for the width of the collar.
4 =Mark a centre point of 0-2.
5 =Mark a centre point of 1-3.
3-6 =Measure upside and mark the point. Join 5-6.
2-7 =Measure upside and mark the point. Join 4-7. Draw curved shape on 2-4.
Mark all around the collar 1-5-6-2-4-0 extra for seam allowance.
STRIPES FOR BUTTON
Length of the stripes is neck + 1. One strip is 1 width and another is 2 width.
Cut one front, one back, two sleeves, two pockets, two stripes for button and two pieces of collar. Cut
one buckram piece of collar without seam allowance.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Cut a slit at the centre front on 10-11 for front open. Finish front open with plackets; see kurta placket
instruction on page no.15. Join front and back shoulders. To stitch mandarin collars see the instructions
on page no. 21. To finish round collar cut bias strips with width and stitch around the neck from
front side. Press the seam and turn the strip towards wrong side and finish with hem.
Fold the 5-3 part of the pocket and stitch to make pocket bag. Place two side pockets
on both sides of the kurta as shown in the figure and tack with hand needle on 5-4-14-4-5-16-5. Stitch
with machine or finish with hem. Fold the bottom edges of the sleeves and stitch or hem. Join two
sleeves. Join sides of the kurta on 12-14-15 and 16-17. Fold the edges of side open and bottom flair and
stitch. Mark the buttonholes on front open and stitch. Stitch buttons on front to finish the kurta.





117

NIGHT SUIT
MEASUREMENTS AS PER SIZE
LENGTH = shirt length
CHEST = circumference
SHOULDER = width
NECK = circumference
SLEEVE LENGTH = full
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure full length + 1 and mark the point.
0-A and 1-B =Measure and mark 1 extension for placket. Draw straight line on 0-1 and A-B.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest + 1 ease + seam for the width of the shirt and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure and mark same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-3-2.
0-4 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for armhole length and mark the point.
0-5 =Measure shoulder + and mark the point.
5-6 =Measure down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12
th
chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.
0-8 =Measure 1/12
th
chest for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-8.

4-9 =Measure width of the shirt and mark the point.
5-6-10 is a straight line. Mark 11 as a center point of 5-10. Measure inside on 11-12 and mark the
point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-12-9 with the help of the French curve.
13 =Mark a center point of 7-8. Measure inside on 13-14 and draw smooth V shape on 8-14-7.
BACK PART
0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 points are same as in front part of night suit shirt.
7-8 =Measure upside for back neck and mark the point. Join 0-8-6.
4-9, 5-6-10, 11 points are same as in front. Draw back armhole shape on 11-9.
FULL SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure sleeves length + for bottom fold and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.
1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a rectangle block on 0-1-3-2.
4 =Mark a center point of 0-2.
5 =Mark a centre point of 0-4.
2-6 =Measure and mark same as 2-4.


118
5-7 =Measure inside and mark a point.
4-8 =Measure inside and mark a point.
8-9 =Measure 1 inside and mark a point.
3-10 =Measure 1 inside and mark a point. Join 6-10.
Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape.
COLLAR
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 3 for the height of the collar and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure neck + for the width of the collar and mark the point.
4 =Mark as a centre point of 0-2.
5 =Mark as a centre point of 1-3.
3-6 & 2-7=Measure upside and mark the point.
7-8 =Measure 1outside and mark a point. Join 4-7-8-6-5 as per shape. Mark extra on outside of 0-4-
7-8-6-5-1 for seam.
Cut one back part, two front parts, two sleeves, two pieces of collar and pockets as per choice.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Fold A-B of both the front part for placket and tack with hand needle. Place the pocket and stitch on the
front part, if there is any, see page no.12 for patch pocket stitching instruction. Join front and back
shoulder on 7-6 and 8-6. Join the two piece of collar together on 0-4-7-8-6. Press the seam and turn and
stitch on edges on right side. Match the centre back point with the centre of the collar and join collar.
Fold the bottom of the sleeves on 1-4. Join sleeves with the shirt. Stitch on the sides along with the
sleeves on 4-10 to 7-8. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch. To finish the night suit shirt mark the
points for buttonholes and buttons. Stitch buttonholes and buttons. For the bottom with the night suit
shirt plain pajama is given in previous pages.
FORMAL SHIRT
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
LENGTH = as per size
CHEST = circumference
SHOULDER = width
NECK = circumference
FULL SLEEVE LENGTH
FRONT PART
Pattern drafting of front part of the formal shirt is same as front part of night suit shirt.
BACK PART
For back part 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9 and 5-6-10 points will be same as for front part.
11 =Mark a center point of 5-10. Draw back armhole shape with French curve on 11-9.
4-12 & 10-13 =Measure 1 upside and mark the points. Join 12-13 as a straight line.
13-14 =Measure down and mark the point. Join 12-14.
6-14 =Measure outside and mark the point. Join 7-15 & 15-14 with shape for yoke of the shirt.
POCKET
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 1/6
th
of chest + 1 for fold as the length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1/6
th
chest for the width of the pocket and mark the point.
0-4& 2-5 = 1 for fold. Join 0-1-3-2 and 4-5.
SLEEVES
0-1 =Measure chest + 4 for the length of the sleeve and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/4
th
chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.



119
.

1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a rectangle block on 0-1-3-2.
4 =Mark a center point of 0-2.
5 =Mark a centre point of 0-4.
2-6 =Measure and mark same as 2-4.
5-7 =Measure inside and mark a point.
4-8 =Measure inside and mark a point.
8-9 =Measure 1 inside and mark a point.
3-10 =Measure 1 inside and mark a point. Join 6-10.
Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape.
Mark 11 as a center point of 1-10. Measure 11-12 upside 1/6
th
of chest for the open slit with cuff.
SLEEVE CUFF
0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 2 length of the cuff and mark the point.
0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/8
th
chest + 2 for the width of the cuff and mark the point.
2-4 & 2-5 =Measure each and mark the points. Draw curved shape on 4-5.
SLEEVE PLACKET
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 5+ cuff length and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure one 1 width and the other is 2 width.
COLLAR
For shirt collar pattern with stand see page no.20.
Cut two front part, one back part, two piece of back yoke, two sleeves, four piece of cuff, two piece of
narrow and two piece of wide sleeves placket, two piece of collar, two piece of stand and one piece of
buckram as per collar shape and one piece of buckram as per stand shape without seam allowance. One
strip of buckram of 1 width is required for front placket as per length of the shirt. Six buttons are
required to stitch.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Fold the placket part of right hand side front and tack with hand needle. Insert the buckram strip inside
the placket of left hand side part of front and stitch two parallel seams. Fold the pocket on 4-5 and stitch.
Place pocket on right hand side part, 2 away from placket and 1 up from armhole point. Stitch the
pocket. Place back part in between the two pieces of yoke and stitch on 1-3. Turn and press the seam.
Join front and back shoulder together. Place the buckram piece of collar on the two pieces of collar and
join together. Insert the buckram piece of stand inside the two pieces of stand and join with the collar.
Place the collar on the neck part of the shirt and stitch together. Join sleeves placket. (See chapter 2)
Join two pieces of cuff together on 0-2-3. Make two small pleats of width on the wide placket side of
the sleeves, tack with hand needle. Join sleeves cuff. Mark a small notch on the centre of the sleeves


120
armhole and shoulder of shirt. Match together and join sleeves on two armhole sides of shirt. Join two
sides of sleeves along with the shirt side seam on 10-9 and 7-8. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch.
Stitch buttonholes on the front placket and buttons on the opposite side of the front part to finish the
shirt.
FORMAL TROUSER
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
LENGTH = as per size
WAIST = circumference
SEAT = circumference
KNEE = girth
BOTTOM
FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure 1/3
rd
seat belt width for the length of the trouser and mark the point.
0-2 =Measure 1/3
rd
of hip and mark the point.
0-3 =Measure 1/4
th
waist + 2 for pleats or dart and mark the point.
2-4 =Measure and mark same as 0-3. Join 3-4 as a straight line.
4-5 =Measure 1/12
th
of hip and mark the point.
6 =Mark as a center point of 3-4. Draw a curve shape on 6-5 with the help of French curve.
3-7 =Measure down and mark the point. Join 0-7.
0-8 =Measure inside for shape and mark the point.
0-9 =Measure 1/4
th
of hip and mark the point. Join 8-9 with shape.
10 =Measure and mark as a center point of 2-5. Measure and mark 0-11, 14-12 and 1-13 point same as
2-10. Join 11-10-12-13 as a straight line.
14 =Mark as a center point of 2-1 and mark 15 as a center point of 5-17.
13-16 & 13-17 =Measure 1/4
th
of bottom girth measurement + and mark the points. Join 2-16 and 5-
15-17 as per shape.
11-18 =Measure 1 for front pleat and mark the point.
Cut front part on 16-2-9-8-7-6-5-15-17. Place front paper pattern on another paper and draw outline to
draw extension on few points to get back part.





121
BACK
5-19 =Extend 2 to 2 and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure

upside and mark the point.
18 =Mark as the center point of 8-11 for dart. Measure dart length as 1/4
th
hip + and mark the point.
6-20 =Measure 1 upside and mark the point.
3-21 =Measure inside and mark the point. Join 19-20-21 with shape and extend 21-22 by 1 Join
8-22 with shape.
17-23 =Measure and mark 1 outside. Join 19-23 as per shape.
Cut back part on 16-2-9-8-22-21-20-19-23. Cut side seam pockets, waist band, zip strip same as in pant
type pajama in page no.110. Cut front and back, each two parts. Draft side pockets, waist belts and zip
strip same as given for pant type pajama. Cut all parts as per instruction, given in the same drafting.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Take two front parts and attach zip with zip strips on 3-7-6-5 (see page no.14-15). Slash pocket can be
stitched on back part on 18 after stitching dart, see slash pocket instruction on page no. 12. Mark 2
down on 8 on front part and join side pockets on both side seam area with front and back together (see
page no. 13). Join two sides of front and back legs on 9-2-16. Join inner leg parts of front and back on 5-
15-17. Join seat area of trouser on 22-20-19 on back along with 5-6 of front part. Take 1 wide and 12
length narrow strip of fabric and fold both side edges towards center and stitch. Cut 5 equal pieces of
2 lengths for the loops for the belt. Place loop on two front parts and three on back waist part with
one at the center back waist by folding the edge and stitch. Join waist belt on 8-7 on front along with 8-
22 on back waist. Stitch other folded edge of loops on waist belt. Fold the bottom of trouser on 16-13-17
along with16-13-23 and stitch. Stitch a hook on waist belt end to finish the trouser.


























122
GLOSSARY

ABSORBENCY
A fabrics ability to absorb moisture is called absorbency. This can be particularly important when
making sporting garments and also when water repellency and stain removal abilities are required of a
fabric.

A LINE
A style of sloping cut in the sides of garment.

ALTER
To make a revision or change to a garment or pattern in order to suit individual sizes or needs.

ALLOWANCE
Extra fabric to be taken outside the seam line or within the garment to accommodate gathers, ease, tucks
and pleats.

APPAREL
Apparel means the general term which describes clothing/garments.

APPLIQUE
The method of sewing a piece of fabric on top of another after a small piece of the fabrics edge has been
folded under to create a clean edge. A tight zigzag stitch (satin stitch) can be used with a machine or
blind stitching if done by hand.

ARMSCYE
Another word used for Armhole.

ARROW
Arrows are used as symbols on paper patterns to indicate lengthwise grain, stitching direction and also
the direction for folding pleats and tucks.

AWL
A sewing tool used for pushing out the inner corners of a turned-in fabric with its pointed tip. Awl is
useful for making collars.

BACKING
A term typically used for the fabric used as the back layer of a quilt. Backing is also used to describe the
fabric layer used inside a vest etc.

BACKSTITCH
Backstitch is used both at the beginning and at the end of a row of stitching to anchor the thread. This
involves running the sewing needle back and forth a few times to reinforce the stitches so that they do
not come loose.




123
BANDS
Strips of fabric applied to edges in to garments to finish or decorate.

BANDING
Another word used for Binding

BAR TACK
A type of stitching often used in buttonhole making or to attach a belt loop or similar item. It is a group
of zigzag stitches formed very close together.

BASTING
The use of temporary stitches to hold your work in place until the permanent stitching is completed.
These are usually large long stitches and are removed when the project is complete.

BELL SLEEVE
Bell sleeve is a straight sleeve with bottom flair.

BERMUDA
Bermuda is a tight narrow short reaching the top of the knee.

BERTHA
A wide flat collar usually rounded at its outer edges.

BIAS
Bias is a diagonal line that runs across the fabric. This is the most stretch area of the fabric.

BIAS BINDING/TAPE
Strips of fabric which are cut on the bias, turned under, pressed, and used where stretch is needed or
accommodation to curves.

BINDING
Binding is a row of folds sitting in alternate directions. The extra fabric in-between the folds can be
shown either at the front or the back depending on the desired effect.

BLIND STITCH
A form of hemming made by catching only one thread of the outer fabric.

BROCADE
Brocade is an exquisite heavy jacquard type fabric with a raised pattern or design. Brocade fabric is
usually applied to formal applications like upholstery, drapes and sometimes eveningwear.

BUCKRAM
Strong jute or cotton fabric used for stiffening items such as the brims of baseball caps or also used in
some drapery projects. It is sometimes impregnated with glue.




124
BUTTONHOLE
A slit made in the fabric to allow a button to pass through in order to close a garment. The slit is bound
using a special buttonhole stitch to stop the fabric from fraying.

CAP
Cap is a top part of a sleeve which curved to fit to armhole.

CAP SLEEVE
Extension of the shoulder on the top of the armhole which looks shape of the cap.

CALENDERING
Calendaring is a method for applying special effects such as embossing, glazing, high luster and moire
to finish fabric.

CALICO
Calico is a cotton type fabric with a tight weave. It is commonly used to make aprons, quilts and dresses.
This fabric is also often used in doll-making.

CASHMERE
Cashmere is a luxurious fiber that is obtained from the soft fleece of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, India,
Mongolia, Iran, Iraq and China. It is commonly used to make shawls, sweaters, suits, coats and dresses.

CASING
A type of fabric channel formed for the purpose of holding waistband elastic or drawstrings in place on
slacks or sweatpants. The same method can also be used in furnishings such as a channel being created
to hold either a curtain rod or a length of dowelling.

CENTER FRONT
Center part of the garment of front part.

CHALK
Chalk is used to mark fabric to show the location of darts, buttonholes, pleats, and other construction
lines.

CHAMBRAY
A plain woven fabric made from cotton, silk or man-made fibers. It incorporates a colored warp (usually
blue) and white filling yarns.

CHIFFON
A lightweight plain woven fabric that is extremely sheer, airy and silky. It contains highly twisted
filament yarns, often from rayon and other man-made fibers. Commonly this fabric is used in evening
dresses and scarves.

CLASSIC STYLE
A style which is re-used with only minor modifications through many changes of fashion.



125
CLIP
A small cut in the seam allowances of a garment which allows a corner or curved area to turn and lie
flat.

CLOSING
Closing is a placket or garment opening.

COMBED COTTON
Combed cotton is smoother, stronger, finer and more compact than carded cotton. It has had all the short
fibers and impurities removed.

CONTOUR
A contour is a curve. Contours can be used in the making of a waistline e.g. the waistband is cut on a
curve versus a straight band. This will allow a better fit.

CORDING
Another word used for Piping. This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a
drawstring in hooded jackets, waistbands etc.

CORDUROY
A fabric that utilizes a cut-pile weaves construction.

COSTUME
A particular style of garment belongs to a given country, time and class.

COUCHING
Couching is performed by sewing decorative thread, yarn or cord to a fabrics surface using a zigzag
stitch on your machine or overcastting by hand.

CRIMPING
This is a technique used to ease fabric into the seam line.

CUTTING LINE
This is the outermost dark line found on a paper pattern. You can either cut directly on the line or just
outside of it but always remain consistent with your cutting method.

DARN
Darning is the method used to repair holes in a garment using stitching that runs back and forth over the
hole in order to fill it. Socks are commonly repaired with this method. You can also use special darning
tools to help keep your fabric taut whilst being repaired.

DART
Darts are V-shaped adjustments to a pattern that allow for extra fullness in a garment (for example in the
bust area of a top) or alternatively for less fullness (for e.g. in the waist or back area).




126
DENIM
Twill weaves cotton-like fabric that is made with different colored yarns in the weft and the warp.
Because of the way it is constructed one color is more predominant on the fabric surface. Typically
jeans shorts and jackets are made of this durable fabric.

DIRECTIONAL STITCHING
Stitches applied in a particular direction to maintain the shape of the pattern.

DOLMAN SLEEVES
Dolman sleeve is a style of sleeves with a very low and loose armhole.

DRAPES
Another name used for Curtains. This word can also describe the way a fabric hangs on
the body.

DRESS FORM
A dummy figure of human to display fitting and drape of a garment.

DROPPED SHOULDER
Dropped shoulder is a design whereby the shoulder is extended over the top of the arm.

DURABILITY
This is a fabrics ability to resist wear through regular use.

EASE
A sewing technique used when you are attempting to make one piece of fabric fit onto another by
pulling in the extra fabric, whilst avoiding puckering or gathering. This technique allows for a proper fit
and better movement in a garment.

EDGE STITCH
A stitch applied just 1/8" from the seamed or folded edge.

EMBELLISH
Embellish is a technique whereby you add decorative stitching, appliqus or other decorations to your
project. The end result is only limited by your creativity.

EMBOSSING
Embossing is a process whereby a fabric is engraved under pressure with heated rollers to produce a
raised design on the surface of the fabric.

EMBROIDERY
The process whereby a fabric or garment is embellished with coloured threads being sewn onto it to
create a design. This can be done by hand or by machine.

ETON COLLAR
Eton collar is a kind of collar with a very slight roll.


127
EXTENSION
Additional fabric jutting out beyond a seam line.

EYELET EMBROIDERY
A fabric which contains patterned cut-outs (usually round or oval) that are stitched or embroidered
around to prevent the fabric from unraveling.

FACE
The right side of the fabric is called face.

FACING
Facing is a fabric piece which is sewn into the cuffs, collar, front opening, or arms eye of a hem to give
a finished effect.

FEED DOG
These are the teeth under the sewing machine plate that help move the fabric as it is being sewn.

FELT
Felt is non-woven fabric that is made from wool, fur hair, and/or man-made fibers. Instead of being
woven together the fibers are held together in a process using heat, moisture and the application of
pressure.

FIBRE
The basic unit, either man-made or natural, that is twisted into yarns and then used for the production of
fabric.

FINDINGS
Any items such as buttons, hooks, snaps or embellishments that are added to a garment during the
manufacturing process are called findings.

FINGER PRESSING
The action of using your hands to open a seam and rubbing/pressing the seam open with your fingers.
Finger pressing is commonly used on small areas of a garment.

FINISH (AN EDGE)
Turn under 1/4" of fabric and stitch, or serge the edge. Doing either of these finishes will stop the fabric
from raveling.

FLAP
A piece of fabric that hangs loose at one edge and another edge is attached with garment. For example;
Pocket flaps.

FLAT-FELLED SEAM
Flat felled seam is created by sewing the wrong side of a fabric together; trimming one seam allowance
very close to the seam, and the other seam is turned under and stitched over the other seam allowance.
This reduces bulk in a seam. This seam is often used in the making of jeans.


128
FLARED
Flared is the fullness of a garment.

FOLD LINE
This is the fold of a fabric (off the bolt) that you lay a pattern piece up against in order to avoid a seam
running down the centre of your garment.

FOOT
This is the part of the sewing machine that sits above the feed dogs and presses down on the fabric as it
is moved through the machine. There are many variations on the standard foot, for example a 'zipper
foot.

FRENCH CURVE
French curve is a kind of tool that is used to create or alter curves on a sewing pattern.


FRILL
Frill is a longer length of fabric that is gathered or pleated onto the edge of a fabric for decorative
purposes.

GATHERING
Gathering enables a longer piece of fabric to be sewn onto a shorter piece of fabric. It is also a method
used to ease a seam, allowing the insertion of sleeves and other rounded pieces of a pattern. It creates
fullness by pulling fabric together.

GINGHAM
A plain weaved fabric with checked pattern.

GEORGETTE
Georgette is a lightweight, sheer fabric which is often made of silk or polyester. Dresses and blouses are
often made of this crepe finish fabric.

GODETS
A shaped or pleated section of material inserted into a garment is called godets.

GRADING (SEAMS)
This is the action of trimming raw edges of a fabric (in graduating widths) to reduce the bulk of a curved
edge. E.g. a facing seam allowance would be trimmed shorter on the facing part of the allowance and
longer on the body seam allowance.

GRAIN
The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage is called grain.

GRAY GOODS
An unfinished fabric just removed from loom.



129
GUSSET
A piece of fabric that is sewn into a seam line in order to create decoration or fullness, for
example, inserting a diamond shaped section of material to an underarm area of a dress
allows more movement.

HAIR CANVAS
This is a type of good quality woven interfacing that is useful for areas like firm blazer rolled collars.

HALTER NECK
A garment without sleeves, the bodice being supported by a band or string passing around the neck or
tied at the back of the neck.

HAM
This is a useful item for ironing curved areas of a garment for e.g. sleeves darts etc. It is "ham" shaped,
tightly stuffed, and appropriately shaped to mold to curves.

HAND
Hand means the way that a fabric feels when it is touched. Various terms can be used like silky, soft,
dry, and crisp. For example "this fabric has a very soft hand."

HEADER
Header is the extra fabric that is above a cased heading, forming a frill.

HEM
The area of fabric that is turned up and stitched on the lower section of a garment, allowing a clean
finished edge is known as hem. Hemming can be performed to shorten pants that are too long or
alternatively the hem can be lowered to allow more room for growth in childrens clothing.
HERRINGBONE
Twill weaves construction variation whereby the twill is broken or reversed at regular intervals so as to
produce a zigzag effect.

HONG KONG FINISH
Hong-Kong finish is a kind of finish where bias binding has been enclosed within a seam.

HOOK AND EYE CLOSURE
This is a method employed to "close" sections of fabric using a metal hook on one side and a loop on the
other. This is often seen in the construction of lingerie and also at the upper rear of some dresses and
blouses.

INSEAM
Inseam is a seam that runs along the inside leg of pants, from the crotch to the hem.

INSERTIONS
Lace having two straight edges, used for inserting between the edges of two pieces of material, is called
insertions.



130
INTERFACING
To "mend" is to fix or repair a hole, split, tear, or other type of damage made to a garment. Depending
on the severity of damage there are various methods you can use for e.g. machine or hand stitches can
be used to "bind" small tears and splits. Iron-on and sew-on patches are useful for larger areas.

INTERLINING
Interlining is a soft fabric that is placed between the lining and the face fabric to help insulate.

INVERTED PLEAT
Inverted pleat is a kind of flat pleat with the extra fabric to the wrong side.

INVISIBLE HEM
A kind of hem stitch to attach lining and interfacing.

KICK PLEATS
Kick pleat is similar to box pleat, except the pleats are further a part as the folds do not butt together at
the back.

KIMONO SLEEVES
Kimono sleeve is a sleeve cut all in one with the bodice. It may be of any length. It gives folds of extra
fabric under the arm. It may be cut with or without a shoulder seam.

KNIFE PLEATS
Knife pleats are a row of fold running in the same direction.

KNITTED FABRICS
Fabrics, constructed by the inter-looping of yarn loops by the use of needles or more specifically a loop
within a loop are called knitted.

LAPEL
Upper edge of a coat or blouse from that turns back, is called lapel.

LAYOUT
The arrangement of paper pattern of the garment on fabric for economical cutting.

LEGO MUTTON SLEEVES
It is a kind of long fitting sleeves with gathered head.

LINING
A lining is used on the inside of a garment (for e.g. jackets and coats) to hide the inside construction and
seams, and also to give a decorative effect. Usually lining is made of a silky type fabric to make the
garment easier to put on.

LOOP
A type of fastening made by thread, cord or fabric strip which extends beyond the finished edge, used on
closing with no overlap.


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MACHINE EMBROIDERY
Machine embroidery is a decorative type of stitching that can be created using a normal sewing machine
or more effectively by using a special machine dedicated to embroidering.

MANDARIN COLLAR
A narrow standing collar with curved edges similar to Chinese collar.

MARKING
Marking is the process of transferring all necessary pattern lines or markings to the wrong side of the
fabric.

MEASURING TAPE
A tape with marking of inches and centimeters to use to measure length and width of the fabric and
measuring the different parts of the body for a particular type of garment.

MEND
To "mend" is to fix or repair a hole, split, tear, or other type of damage made to a garment. Depending
on the severity of damage there are various methods you can use for e.g. machine or hand stitches can
be used to "bind" small tears and splits. Iron-on and sew-on patches are useful for larger areas.

MITERING
Mitering is a method of folding the excess seam allowance to gain a sharper and less bulky corner.
Often used for quilt corners, vests, jackets and occasionally on collars.

MUSLIN
A cloth used for making sheets. It has a thread count under 180 threads per inch. It is more loosely
woven and coarser than percale. It is generally inexpensive and therefore often used to make trial
garments before a more expensive fabric is used.

NAP
Nap is a one-way textural direction of a fabric, such as velvet or corduroy. When using these types of
"fuzzy" fabrics with a nap all pieces must be cut with the nap running in the same direction.

NEEDLE
The two most common types of sewing machine needles are ball point and sharps. The ball point needle
is usually used for knits, and basic sharp points are normally used for non-stretch, woven fabrics. There
are many other types of sewing machine needles such as all purpose, wedge-point, perfect stitch, jean,
wing and also twin and triple needles. See individual definitions for more information on each needle
type.

NOTCH
This small cut in the seam allowance allows fabric to bend at corners and curves. On a paper pattern it is
shown as a dark colored diamond.




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NOTION
Notions are items (apart from a sewing machine and fabric) that are used for sewing. Notion is also
called findings and sundries.

OVERCAST/OVERSTITCH
This form of stitching is done to prevent a seam from raveling.

OVERLOCK
Another word used for serging. This is an overcast stitch that is used to prevent the fabric from raveling.
You can buy an over lock machine that will cut and over lock in one step.

PATTERN LAYOUT
These are directions for the way you should lay out a pattern.

PICOT
Picot is a loop stitch along the edge of the fabric to form an edging.

PINKING SHEARS
These are a type of shear with a "vvvvw" shape along the cutting edge. Using these shears instead of
normal straight edged fabric shears will lessen the fabric raveling. They can also be used for a
decorative effect

PINS
Pins are used for holding paper patterns to fabric whilst you are cutting the fabric, and also to hold
fabrics together whilst being stitched. Safety pins can be used to baste quilt layers together before the
final quilting. Make sure you use good quality sharp pins to avoid large holes being left in your fabric.

PINTUCK
Pin tucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn
rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment.

PIPING
This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a drawstring in hooded jackets,
waistbands etc.

PIPING CORD
A fabric covered cord that is inserted into an item to decorate or accentuate a seam.

PIVOT
Pivoting is the action of leaving the sewing machine needle in the fabric, raising the presser foot, turning
the fabric on a 45 degree angle, lowering the presser foot and continuing to sew. This ensures the fabric
stays put when you turn corners.

PLACKET
Placket is a v-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve. Before the cuff is attached it is finished with a bias
strip.


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PLEAT
Pleat means a fabric fold that is only sewn at the top edge on a garment such as a skirt or slacks. The
fold is formed outwards or inverted.

POLO-NECK
High, rolled collar worn close to the neck is called polo-neck.

PRE-SHRINKING (also referred to as pre-washing)
This term refers to laundering the fabric before you mark and cut out your pattern, so that the fabric
shrinks to its ultimate size and shape before you work with it.

PRESS
Pressing is different to ironing. Pressing is the action of using a hot iron in a press/pick
up/move/press/pick up/move action. Do not use a back and forth motion as you would when you "iron".
Pressing is usually done in the creation of a garment.

PRESSER FOOT
The presser foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric as it is being fed through the feed
dogs. You can buy various types of presser feet to do specialized tasks such as buttonholing, zig
zagging, cording, zipper insertion and blind hemming.

PRINCESS LINE
Princess line is a seam line running from shoulder or armhole to the hem with no waist seam.

PUCKER
To draw up into folds and wrinkles.

PUFF-SLEEVES
It is design of sleeves having fullness, gathered into armhole and into a band or binding at the lower
edge.

RAGLON SLEEVES
A sleeve style in which the armhole seams run up to the neck line, and giving a loose and comfortable
fit.

RAVEL
Raveling can be performed intentionally to give the edge of the fabric a frayed/fringed appearance. Sew
a tight seam any distance from the raw edge and pull the outside threads away. Unintentional raveling of
raw edges can be avoided by finishing the raw edge with appropriate stitching to keep threads intact.

RAW (EDGE)
The raw edge is the edge of the fabric that is not finished or stitched.





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REINFORCE (SEAM)
To effectively reinforce a seam you need to sew very close next to it, but not on top of the seam. You
could also use bias tape to reinforce a seam. A typical area of a garment that needs to be reinforced is
the crotch seam.

RIGHT SIDE
The right side of the fabric is the side with the pattern or design.

RIP
It is a tool to open a seam by pulling out or cutting the stitching.

RUFFLE
Another name used for a Frill.

RULER
A good sewing ruler is clear plastic, 1/4" or less increments, 2" wide and 18" long. They're useful for
measuring the placement of buttonholes, rotary cutting and pattern amendments. In conjunction with a
solid ruler, an essential part of your sewing kit is a good measuring tape.

RUNNING STITCH
A running stitch is often used for basting, by running the thread over and under the fabric. It can also be
used as the basis for a more decorative stitch.

SALVAGE
The woven outside edge of fabric which is unable to fray is known as salvage. This can have color
matching dots or manufacturer information printed on it.

SATIN STITCH
This zigzag stitch is applied with a shortened stitch length so that the stitches look horizontal to each
other.

SAG
The stretch that occurs in the bias grain of a garment after hanging or as the effect of strain on any part
of a garment is called sagging.

SCALLOP
An edge finish made up of a series of semi circles, are called as scallop.

SEAM
A seam is a method of stitching two pieces of fabric together.

SEAM ALLOWANCE
The amount of extra fabric added to allow for a seam. This is the area between the cut edge and the
seam stitching.




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SEAM FINISH
A finish applied to a raw edge to control ravel and fraying.

SEAM LINE
The stitching lines used for joining seams are known as seam line.

SELVEDGE
It is another name of salvage.

SEPARATING ZIPPER
This is a type of zipper that separates entirely. These are often found on jackets and sweaters. There is a
metal or plastic tab at the bottom of the zipper for bringing both sides together and starting the zip.

SERGER
Serger is also called an over locker. This is a form of sewing machine that cuts off excess fabric and
finishes the seam allowance in one motion. Most manufactured knit fabric garments have been edged
with a serger.

SHANK BUTTON
A shank button is one that has space left between it and the fabric. They have a raised area on the back
of the button which is used to sew it onto the fabric. A heavyweight jacket would require a deeper
shanked button than a lighter weight jacket for instance. You can turn a normal button into a shanked
button by wrapping thread under the button to create a shank.

SHAWL COLLAR
Shawl collar is a style of collar, cut in one piece with the front bodice and ending at the centre back, thus
forming a kind of shawl over the shoulders.

SHRINK
Shrinkage occurs with some fabrics when they are washed and/or dried. This results in the fabric or
garment becoming smaller. See "Pre-Shrinking" for ways to deal with this problem when constructing a
garment.

SIZING
Sizing is a light starch finish that provides crispness to a fabric without feeling stiff.

SILHOUETTE
The outline of a dress is known as silhouette.

SIZE
The measurement classification within a figure type which allows for variation in a body measurement,
such as bust, waist and hip are called as size.

SLASH
A fairly long cut made to a point or a corner is called slash.



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SLIT
Slits are often seen on skirts or back seams. They are an open part of the seam, usually at the bottom.

SMOCK
A straight garment with a gathered or smocked yoke is called smocking.

SNIPS
Snips are very small cutting tools, very much like scissors, but are only used for cutting threads.

SPOOL
Basically, a spool holds thread. They can be made of plastic, wood, cardboard tubing, etc.

STAY-STITCH
This stitching is applied about 1/8" inside the permanent line of stitching on a curved edge in order to
keep it from distorting. Refer to the pattern to establish the direction of the stitching.

STAND
The part of the collar which extends upwards from the base of the neck and determines the height of the
collar is called a stand.

STITCH IN THE DITCH
This is a type of under-stitching. To perform successfully, press the seam allowances to one side and top
stitch as close as possible to the seam. This will hold the seam allowance down and keep the piece of
fabric folded under.

STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch depends on the work you are doing, but in general 11-12 stitches are applied per
inch. If you are gathering or basting then there is usually 6 stitches applied per inch. You will rarely ever
need to have more than 12 stitches applied per inch.

STRAIGHT STITCH
This is stitching made up of single forward stitches. Most sewing machines use this as the standard.

TACK/TACKING
Tacking is applying temporary stitching to hold material pieces together until the final stitching is
completed.

TAILORS TACK
Using two threads through a needle, draw the needle through all fabric layers (and paper pattern), and
snipping off the thread, but leaving a "tail" of thread at the top and bottom of the fabric as a way of
marking the piece. Use a contrasting color thread for easy identification. You can use this method to
mark darts, buttonholes etc.

TAPE MEASURE
A tape measure is made of a flexible material, about 60" long, and has a (usually) metal tab at each end.
Measurements are marked on both sides, sometimes both metric and imperial.


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TAPER
To decrease width gradually and bring to a point is called taper.

TENSION
The term tension is used in two areas of your sewing machine. The first being the bobbin tension (which
doesn't usually need to be adjusted), the second being the thread tension. You should carefully refer to
your machines instruction manual with regards to both tensions.

THIMBLE
Thimbles are used to protect your middle finger when hand sewing. They are available in many
materials e.g. metal, wood, plastic, leather, ceramic. You wear the thimble on the hand that is actually
using the needle to sew.

THREAD
Thread is the basis for sewing material together. It is usually the same (or complimentary) colour as
your fabric. This thread should be used on both the spool as well as in the bobbin of your machine to
avoid problems such as bunching and knotting from occurring.

THREAD COUNT
The actual number of threads used per inch in a woven fabric.

TOP STITCH
This is a row of stitching which is visible on the completed product. This stitching can be decorative or
purely functional. It is usually applied about 1/4" from the edge of a seam.

TRACING PAPER
Tracing paper is used with a tracing wheel to mark your fabric with the ink-like substance that is on one
side of the paper.

TRACING WHEEL
A tracing wheel is used in conjunction with tracing paper. Laying the ink-side of the tracing paper down
on the fabric, roll the wheel across the paper where you want the fabric to be marked. Do not press too
hard with the tracing wheel as you may cut through the paper or fabric.

TRIM
Trim can have two meanings. The first being the act of removing excess fabric or thread etc with
scissors. The second meaning of trim is a decorative accessory added to a garment or item e.g. lace,
ribbon etc.

TUCK
Tucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of
fabric that give a raised look to a garment.

TURTLE NECK
A high, rolled collar worn well away from the neck.


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UNDER-STITCHING
This form of stitching is applied as close to the seam line as possible to enable a piece of fabric to stay
folded under. See "Stitch in the Ditch."

UNDERLINING
This is a lining that is used to add body to a garment.

UNIVERSAL NEEDLE
This sewing machine needle is used for knitted or woven fabrics. The needle has a slightly rounded tip.

VIEW
This term is used to describe the variations that are shown on most paper patterns. Each variation is
referred to as a "view".

WALKING FOOT
This type of foot replaces the normal foot on your sewing machine, but it allows smoother sewing when
you are stitching through several layers of fabric. It works in conjunction with the feed dogs below the
fabric to help push the material through. Walking foot is also useful for slippery fabrics.

WARP
The threads that run down the length of a woven fabric are called warp. They can also be called the
lengthwise grain.

WEFT
The threads that run across a woven fabric from selvedge to selvedge are called weft. They run
perpendicular to the warp. Also referred to as the cross grain.

WELT
A strip of fabric that is sewn between the two sides of a cushion to allow it more depth is called welt.

WOVEN FABRIC
Fabric that is made by interlacing horizontal and vertical yarns is called woven fabrics.

WRAP
The upper part of an opening which overlaps the under layer is called wrap.

WRONG SIDE
The wrong side of a fabric is the one where there is no design or pattern.

YOKE
Separately made shoulder piece of bodice or the top of a skirt is known as yoke.

ZIG ZAG
Zigzag is a type of stitch that goes sideways one direction, and then the other. It can be used to prevent a
seam from raveling. It can also be used decoratively.