Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
FEBRUARY 1965
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First Prize
WHOOO?
For the best caption for this photo-
graph of the two Monkey-Faced Owls
DESERT Magazine will give an ex-
pense-paid guided tour through
Death Valley by Wanderlust Death
Valley Tours. You may either quote
the owls or describe them in the
caption which cannot be longer than
50 words. Entries must be postmarked
no later than March 1, 1965.
Second Prize
38 Winged Hypodermic
By TIM ST. GEORGE
I • New D Renewal
39 Desert Dispensary
By SAM HICKS Sign Gift Card: "Frorn-
42 Letters to the Editor D Payment Enclosed BUI Me Later
New This Month
"PowerBoating the West Coast of
Mexico" by Spencer Murray & Ralph
Poole.
Book $o/i Resen
A cruise guide book of ports, boating
supplies and accommodations along STANDING UP COUNTRY land which passed from the missions
Mexico's Gulf of California mainland into the hands of Indians was quickly
from the top of the gulf to Puerto By C. Gregory Crampton gambled away or hoodwinked from
Vallarta. "No popular image exists of the them. Having grown dependent upon
Map by Norton Allen, mileage & charts, canyon country of Utah and Arizona.
more than 90 photos. 280 pages.
the misions for welfare and guidance,
One reason is that no history of the the Indians were unable to support
Only book of its kind ever published. entire region has ever been written. themselves on their own. Uncared
Of interest to all boat owners. Colorful It has always been the segmented
dust jacket. $6.5 plus 20c packing and for, the beautiful buildings deteriora-
dust jacket. $6.75 plus 20c packing and view. Yet the history was as dramati- ted and fell into ruin. Many have
postage. (California addresses add 27c cally rich as the landscape and was been restored today; others are little
given a unity by the river and its more than monuments.
desert-southwest book store canyons." Now, at last, a biography
of the region has been written by the Mission architecture is described in
P. O. Box 757 man who made the above statement. detail and truly beautiful four-color
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 reproductions of California's out-
Dr. C. Gregory Crampton, professor standing missions make this book one
of history at the University of Utah, of the nicest to come to our attten-
tackled this ambitious project with tion. It is a book to prize and one
GHOST TOWNS the background and energy of a Su- we highly recommend. Hardcover,
perman. No land in the uninhabited, 321 pages, large format. $12.75.
AND GOLD rugged area was too wild to resist his
LEARN ABOUT THE COLORFUL GHOST appraisal. No colorful episode of
TOWNS OF THE WEST — DIRECTORY CON- history eluded his pen. This is, in-
TAINS INFORMATION ON OVER 340 GHOST deed, the finest book ever published Books reviewed may be ordered
TOWNS FEATURING PICTURES, MAPS, PLUS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PANNING GOLD.
on the wonders of the canyon country. from the DESERT Magazine Book
PRICE: $1.00 Order Department, Palm Desert,
WRITE TO:
Illustrated with 16 photographs in
PIERCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
full color and over 100 black and California 92260. Please include
DEPARTMENT R whites, the dramatic text covers the 25c for handling. California resi-
BOX 5221 times of the conquistadores, explorers, dents must add 4% sales tax.
ABILENE, TEXAS cattle barons, Mormons, gold rush,
and famous Colorado river runners Enclose payment with order.
and the area covered reaches from
Utah's Book Cliffs to the White Mesa
Let DESERT say, "Thank you." of Arizona and from Bryce National FOLLOWING THE FRONTIER
Park to the Four Corners. Large for- By Freeman Tilden
mat, 192 pages. Price } 15.00.
As the West's first great travelling
AUTHORS!
photographer, F. Jay Haynes really
THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS did follow the frontier. With a rail-
road car of his own, he pulled in on
Here, with information assembled every spur between the Dakota and
If you have completed a book-length manu- by the editors of Sunset Books, is the
script, you may be interested in our special Montana territories to photograph
publishing plan. Under this program, many
lawyers, executives, teachers, scholars and
most comprehensive book on Cali- sodbusters in their store - bought
even housewives have seen their work pub- fornia missions ever published. Cali- clothes, miners, freighters and cow-
lished, promoted and marketed on a digni- fornia's large cities grew up around
fied, professional basis. All subjects con- boys. As official photographer for the
sidered — non-fiction, fiction, poetry, etc.
Send for our free 40-page illustrated bro-
the 21 missions established to bring Northern Pacific Railroad and new-
chure today. Ask for Booklet, D. Christianity and civilization to Stone ly established Yellowstone Park, he
VANTAGE PRESS, INC. Age Indians. With the advent of trad- recorded many of these regions on
120 W. 31st St., New York 1, N.Y. ing vessels from New England, how- film for the first time. Now his photo-
In Calif.: 6253 Hollywood Blvd., L.A. ever, Alta California was doomed as graphs are in the Haynes Museum
In Wash., D.C.: 1010 Vermont Aje., N.W. a province of Spain. Designed to be- along with a magnificient collection
come as self-supporting as possible, it of artifacts, books and rare miscellany
CALIFORNIA wasn't long before various mission acquired by his son, the late Jack
colonies became so independent they Ellis Haynes of Bozeman, Montana.
GHOST TOWN GUIDE seceded from the mother country.
New Spain led the way in 1810 when
It was with the help of Jack Haynes
New guide to over 100 California ghost towns that the author accumulated data for
Unique and authentic guide to over 100 it set itself up as the Republic of this book, much of it never before
ghost towns in California's deserts and moun- Mexico. At the same time, the Mexi-
tains with complete directions on how to published.
reach them. Shows you the way to little- can government ordered secularization
known and intrigue-filled towns that provide of the missions, whereas mission prop-
hours of interest for those seeking buried Text in the book is lively and en-
treasures, old guns, western relics, purple
bottles aged by the sun, and antique objects.
erties were turned over to the In- compasses country as far reaching as
Satisfaction guaranteed or money back. dians. Unfortunately, the California Canada, Puget Sound and Alaska.
Order Now! Only $1.95 Indians were not yet ready for this, Many of the photos are of famous
so secularization became a means for Indians. With 406 pages, this large
A. L. ABBOTT Spanish-Mexican settlers to obtain
Dept. D-12 format book will be cherished by col-
1513 West Romneya Drive — Anaheim, Calif. land grants for themselves. That lectors of Western Americana.
4 / Desert Magazine / February, 1965
By fflata/' Pefifiefi
vision...
THE SHOSHONIS
By Virginia C. Trenholm and
Maurine Carley
Overlooked by historians, this tribe
of American Indians has at last found
a biographer. The Shoshonis roamed
the Great Basin area—Oregon, Cali-
fornia, Nevada, Utah and Idaho into
Wyoming—until they became absorb-
ed by the white man. Peaceful by
nature, they suffered hardship, per-
sonal affront and loss of dignity in LIVE A1000 LIVES
proving their abiding attachment to in One Lifetime
white friends.
In a revelation that came to the There are no physical limitations to
Mormon leader Joseph Smith in 1830,
the Latter-day Saints were obligated inner vision . . . the psychic faculties
to take the message of the Book of of man know no barriers of space or
Mormon to the natives. Thus a mis- time. A world of marvelous phe-
sionary party was instituted to at-
tempt to convert the Indians, estab- nomena awaits your command. Within
lish friendly relations, and teach them the natural—but unused functions of SKI; WITHOUT EYES
to cultivate soil, as game was growing by inner perception
scarce in the area and the Indians your mind are dormant powers that
weren't prepared to exist without it can bring about a transformation of
for food. This first company, led by
Elder Orson Hyde, went into the your life.
region of the Green River where the
Mormons withstood attacks by un- The Rosicrucians (not a religion)
friendly mountain men and at last are an age-old brotherhood of learning.
achieved success by winning the trust
of two great Indian chiefs—Washakie For centuries they have shown men
SEARCH FOR
and Snag—who subsequently became and women how to utilize the fullness THE UNKNOWN
devout converts. of their being. This is an age of daring know uhen you find it
Send for price sheets GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAIL by Nell Mur-
"Jala mas un pelo de mujer, que barger is a fast moving chronicle of Western
and envelopes
una yunta, de bueyes." boomcamp and bonanza. Rich in human interest
All other A single woman's hair, can pull as well as authentic history, this book covers
Photo prices are ghosttowns of Nevada, western Utah and eastern
more than a team of oxen. California. Hardcover, 291 pages. Price $6.75.
comparably low
"De el arbol caido, todos quieren GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLS by Nell Mur-
hacer lena." barger, the well known "roving reporter of the
MARKET BASKET PHOTO CO.
P. O. Box 370, Yuma, Arizona or From the fallen tree, everyone desert." The author's just-published book is an
P. O. Box 2830, San Diego, California intimate chronicle of Arizona's once-booming
wants to make firewood. mining towns, stage stations, army posts, mar-
"Mas vale pajaro en mano que auding Indians and fantastic human characters.
380 pages, illustrated. Hard Cover. $7.50.
ver un ciento volar."
A bird in your hand is better than WESTERN GHOST TOWN SHADOWS by Lambert
Florin. Fourth in a series of superb ghost town
the sight of a hundred on the wing. books by DESERT'S favorite ghost town writer.
Large format, good photos, rousing text. $12.50.
X HE STUDY of fossils can be an from appearing on the scene. As the carnivores that preyed off them,
interesting adjunct to weekend des- could be expected, grass eaters, and were the principal actors on the
ert trips in search of minerals, gems, scene. Some birds and animals of that
bottles, and other desert finds. For era remain today, but many more
here, among broken sections of the have evolved into other forms or, like
earth's crust caused by faulting, the great dinosaurs, have become ex-
erupting, and mountain-building, are tinct. Oddly enough, only a few
revealed fragments of life that exist- major forms of animal life that oc-
ed millions of years before man put cured there then have survived on
in his precarious appearance. Fossil- this continent. At that time, a land
ized traces of prehistoric life may be bridge existed between Alaska and Si-
seen throughout the world, but those beria and life migrated freely between
found in desert locations are particu- the two continents. Later this bridge
larly interesting. One such area is sank and animals who were ancestors
about eight miles from Barstow, just of present-day wild-life adapted them-
off the Fort Irwin Road. Here are selves according to the conditions and
bones, teeth, and petrified trees that climates they encountered.
belonged to the prehistoric age known
as the later Miocene Epoch. One of the most awesome of pre-his-
toric Barstovian beasts was the great
Approximately 15 million years dog-bear, an ancestor of modern bears
ago, the Barstow area was a grassy and dogs. It was the largest predator
plain with a mild climate, abundant of that time, being considerably lar-
water, and luxurious palm trees. The ger than our grizzlies. A species of
age of reptiles had flourished and sabre-tooth cat also preyed on the
passed, with the last of the great Miocene grass eaters that frequented
dinosaurs unaccountably extinct for the grassy plains. Several types of cam-
about 70 million years. Mammals were el, a small horse, and an even smaller
rising on the evolutionary ladder and prong-horned ancestor of the antelope
latecomer man was millions of years were among the herbivores victimized
10 / Desert Magazine / February, 1965
by the giant bear and the powerful
sabre-tooth.
Although scientists have learned
much about our prehistoric past, great
finds still remain to be made in the
Calico area. This was just appreciated
in 1954 when prehistoric insect fossils
were dug up and again in February
of 1964 when the area was included
as part of the Calico Resources Con-
servation Area. This 125,000-acre
tract extends from Black and Opal
Mountains to Coyote Lake and Calico,
and takes in an area 38 miles long
and from 5 to 13 miles in width. At
the present time, a section of Coyote
Lake is under excavation by a group
working with the National Geogra-
phic Society for the purpose of un-
earthing artifacts of early man.
The Calico Resources Conservation approximately 4 miles of some of the ed, and it is in these layers of mud
Area was set up by the Bureau of Land most picturesque geological forma- and volcanic ash that fossils are
Management in an effort to preserve tions in the country. found.
an area of historical interest. Devel-
opment plans contain provisions for Rainbow Basin comprises a dazzl- Beyond Rainbow Basin are Coon
construction of campsites, additional ing profusion of lofty spires, broken Canyon and Fossil Canyon. Fossil
access roads, and hiking and riding cliffs, and up-ended rock. In many Canyon is considered richer in fossils
trails. The fossil bed area includes places it is difficult to determine than Rainbow Basin, but probably
a section known as Rainbow Basin. whether the strata is jutting into the not as rich in color and is far more in-
This is easily reached by vehicles with air at ;i 45 degree angle, or whether accessible. Even with the current to-
high clearance, although large camp- it has flipped over and is now 135 pographical map (1955) we were un-
ers and trailers might jam in the degrees from its original position. As able to locate the roads into these
narrow canyons. The Rainbow Basin many as 20 different layers of earth canyons and recommend them only
loop is a one-way dirt road and covers and vari-colored stone can be count- for 4-wheel drive vehicles. ///
had been tossed down from the near- sharpened the city's thirst. So while
M. . EMORIES ARE short and recre-
ation lovers are quick to forget the
by mountains, those two streams
widened and deepened and danced
thriving San Diego sucked water from
its two mountain reservoirs, pumped
past in a search for newer and better wildly over the rocks. Both crops and wells dry, borrowed from neighbors
fishing grounds. Lake Morena stands livestock thrived. and struggled to maintain its growth
among the forgotten, but for those Mountain rainstorms were frequent with dwindling water supplies, the
who look to the future, its history and heavy in those days. It is record- city planners eyed Morena Valley
bears a lot of repealing. ed that in 1896, in nearby Campo, it with envy.
Cradled high in the mountains rained 10.26 inches in 80 minutes. Just before the turn of the cen-
separating the desert of San Diego Heavy storms regularly turned crystal
tury, E. S, Babcock and J. D. Sprec-
County from its beach, is Morena streams into raging torrents which in
turn washed out crude roads and kels. pioneer owners of the Southern
Valley. Early in 1895 it was a rock- California Mountain Water Com-
studded meadow surrounded with a bridges and took their toll of sheep
and cattle. pany, proposed building a dam at
picturesque rim of misty mountains. the head of the wild canyon behind
Through this pleasant pasture land To the west, sleepy San Diego was Morena Valley. This ambitious pro-
drifted the lazy waters of the Upper stirring restlessly. Although water ject, when completed, would halt the
Cottonwood Riser, at times joined by from Lake Cuayamaca had been har- flow of water from the Morena basin
those of Kitchen Creek, La Posta nessed for city use in 1888, and an and store it for later use by the city
Creek, and Mahagaut Creek. In late earthen dam had been built in lower of San Diego as needed. The plan,
spring, alter rain and melting snow Otay more recently, these sources only although elaborate, sounded feasible
BY KENNETH MARQUISS
X O SWIPE A phrase from the elas- patterns. Any self-respecting "lost found it will probably be spotted
tic vernacular of our politician mine story" should concern a ledge or by some winter weekender enjoying
friends, the story of the "Lost Quail mine of fabulous rich gold ore, found the desert sunshine—or by his wife
Perch" lode comes to you "only after long, long ago by some hairy-eared, out hunting arrowheads!
an agonizing reappraisal!" The poli- "tubaccy chawing" prospector, or his
ticos, of course, have some fancy trans- My part of the story goes back to
dog or burro. It should be located in
lation for this—but it boils down to some wildly remote mountain fast- the late '30s.
facing the facts of failure, and easing ness. Properly, it should have become A worker in our office asked me to
the risks of ridicule. lost due to some dramatic catastrophe identify a heavy piece of steel-grey
such as an Indian attack, murder, glittering mineral from the rock col-
There are several reasons for this. lection of a high school boy. At first
thirst, or a double-dealing dance hall
In the first place, it's the goofiest girl. And it should have a romantic1 glance I thought it was galena, a
lost mine deal I ever tangled with name. common lead ore; but a closer check
and doesn't fit into any of the proper threw me for a loss. The crystalliza-
The "Lost Quail Perch" story just tion, fracture, weight and other qual-
doesn't fit in anywhere! ities were slightly different, and I
It is a highly valuable deposit of couldn't identify it with anything I
bismuth ore—probably walked over knew.
by a number of people—that was She said the boy's uncle had found
found and lost within the memory a lot of it, but didn't think it was
span of any reader who ever drove one worth anything. I had a hunch I had
of Henry's shiny new Models As. It is cut the trail of something good. Peo-
in wide open "low country" and a ple don't like having their collection
standard station wagon will put you items chopped up, and I wanted to
in the center of the search circle. In test the stuff. So I went to see the
the fall of 1948 I took my 10-year-old boy who owned the collection. He
daughter with me on a short trip confirmed the story, and seemed in-
prospecting for it, as a reward for a terested in doing a little swapping.
prize report card, and she had no
trouble hiking in the area. Anyone who has qualms about the
future of the country should try some
It was found by a plumber hunting "horse-trading" with a bright teenager
quail, and lost because of an acety- who thinks you really want something
lene torch! he owns! It cost me two choice Ari-
It doesn't look like ore until you zona gold ore specimens, a piece of
cut into it; and I'd bet the back wheel rich Nevada silver ore, and $5 cash
off my Tote-Gote that when it is to get my hands on a couple of his
larger samples. One of the pieces
Author indicates gouge where attempt had two deep, smooth, curved grooves
was made to melt ore with a welding in it. The boy said his uncle had
torch. Although size was reduced for been told it was lead ore, and had
tests, this sample weighs over two tried to melt the piece down with a
pounds. welding torch. The only result was
Original bells still hang in San Luis Gonzaga church built in 1737 by Jesuits.
Ancient Gods
m
by barbara woll
X HE ROCKS TUMBLED and twisted and fantastic His great, great grandparents may have come to the
shapes appeared and the gods laughed with the joy red rocks before he did, as there is evidence that man
of living. As they conjured a wonderland out of the lived a lew miles to the northwest as long as 10,000 years
brilliant red sandstone, they called exuberantly to each ago. There is no indication that they were in the valley,
other and the canyons echoed with their delight. When but it is logical to assume they would have followed
they had tired of their play they went on to more seri- the mountain goat too.
ous work and left the incomparable Valley of Fire for It is unlikely that more than 50 to 75 of these people
mortals to enjoy in their leisure. camped among the rock formations of the valley, due
Some many years later the State of Nevada looked to lack of water. Fortunately for modern man, water is
at their handiwork and decided to set aside a State Park available at conveniently spaced picnic areas. There are
so that modern demi-gods might, in their earthly pur- also tables, stoves and shelters. In the heart of the park
suits, take pleasure in the enchantment of this area. there are no camp sites, but you can always throw down
Wanderers of the West may find Southern Nevada's a sleeping bag while the moon lazily climbs the cobalt
Valley of Fire by turning off Highway 91 at Crystal, sky and offers balm to a restless spirit. Surely the gods
which is 20 miles east of Glendale on State Highway 12. paused here to fill their hearts and souls with beauty,
This route goes through Moapa Valley and Overton as do demi-gods of today.
where a stop at the Lost City Museum is recommended. But the traveler searches for majesty and humor
Here can be seen the story of the ancient peoples of also, and he will find both along the blacktopped main
this area who were the first to follow the gods to their roads and well-marked trails. Elephant Rock is near the
unearthly jumble of flame-red rock. Also, to be prac- park's eastern entrance. Perched against an azure back-
tical, Overton is the closet place to the Valley for gaso- drop, it takes only a slight bit of imagination to identify
line or groceries. it. Down the road is a master craftsman's version of an-
The hills along the highway are low and rolling other elephant—a mechanical one—with its body com-
and give little promise of the visions to come. As the posed of square blocks of stone.
road winds through the stunted brush, the sharp, cold The Seven Sisters stand beside a picnic site and are
blue of Lake Mead appears below, confined within a so named because they resemble seven young ladies'
badland desert frame. heads. Also near the main road is Atlatl Rock with its
The road into the Valley is maintained by the State famous prehistoric carving of the throwing stick used by
of Nevada. Rangers are not on duty the year around, ancient people to give force to their spear.
but the park is always open. Within its 30,000 acres The interior road to Rainbow Vista may be broken
a traveler may find a day's adventure, or spend a week and obscured by drifting dunes, but a hike along the
photographing fantastic forms without repeating a single trail reveals a view of distant cliffs where the eye stretches
shot. Even a half-day will afford time to visit the Seven to infinity. The mind returns to reality on the return
Sisters, petroglyphs in Atlatl Rock or explore a forest of walk, though, lor then the path climbs tremendous
petrified logs. boulders which must be scaled by iron ladders secured
Back trails and improved roads are marked, but for into their sides. Among these mountains of rock is
any extensive tour it is wise to travel with an experi- Mouse's Tank, once the hideout of an Indian renegade
enced navigator. It is easy to become lost in this named Mouse, who gave the posse a merry chase in his
jumbled rock maze. By contacting R. F. Perkins, curator wake of murder and thievery.
of the Lost City Museum, you can obtain information Back along the highway another trail leads to a
about securing a jeep and a guide. large flat rock believed to be a prehistoric bulletin
For those too unromantic to accept a theory of an- board. On it are pecked abstract symbols of an un-
cient gods, scientists have another to explain the Valley certain age. Mr. Perkins at the Lost City Museum will
of Fire. They tell us that in an age recalled only by share with you his theory about them.
the exactitude of science, the earth's crust folded and By the time this is published, the Nevada State Park
twisted and rose due to internal pressures; thus a valley System should have completed a 15-unit campground
was formed. Then floods rushed down to the Muddy with a comfort station, water, firepits and trash con-
River and the Virgin River and the thin covering of tainers. These facilities will no doubt encourage ex-
rock waste went with them and left the brilliant sand- ploration of this relatively unknown area that was
stone exposed. crossed for the first time by Jeep only three years ago.
Ages passed. The mountain goat roamed freely Few visitors have witnessed the Valley's wildest colors
among the spires and domes of this colorful valley and and wierdest formations, for these lie deep within its
man followed him there. He came from the Lost City, heart and may be reached only by 4-wheel drive or
which is now an Atlantis at the bottom of Lake Mead, horseback. As whimsical gods moved toward the outer
and he came as long ago at 2000 years. This valley had rim, they changed its firebrand rocks to straw, and
molded sandstone hives for mythical bees.
for him a semi-religious significance because its strange
formations changed shape in the moving sunlight. He Then the burnt landscape turns to dun and you, the
didn't live here, but he hunted mountain goat, jack- wayfarer, find yourself spinning a 4-lane thread to Las
rabbits and squirrels and his existence depended upon Vegas. Behind, you leave the topsy-turvy world of an-
an ability to make use of yucca, mesquite, and other cient gods. Ahead, you meet the tipsy world of today.
desert growths we call weeds today. ///
The Mystery of Devil Spring
TEORGE LANE cut the throttle anything like it. Ojo Diablo is en- ghastly mount with shrieks that send
and our small plane eased delicately compassed by what appears to be a shivers of primitive fear honking up
to the ground. With scarcely a bump, moat! and down the spines of mortal be-
the wheels found the surface of the George Lane has ranching interests holders.
ancient dried lake bed and George in Mexico near Casas Grandes. For They tell, too, tales of treasure hid-
gently applied the brakes. The plane years he has heard tales of this enig- den at Ojo Diablo. In the nearby
rolled to a stop and we climbed out. matic ruin and has flown over it low ridge of hills, they say the an-
A quarter of a mile away lay our many times on business trips to the cients worked rich mines of gold,
destination—Ojo Diablo, a mysterious States. On one of these occasions, he smelting the ore near the old building
Spanish ruin located in the big wild told me he was going to fly down and casting the precious metal into
empties of Northern Chihuahua, Mex- there, land on that lake bed, and ingots which they hid in the ruin.
ico, some 80 air miles south-southwest have himself a look-see. Naturally, I They say the mine shafts are still
of El Paso, Texas. I pulled my gadget invited myself along. there, complete with notched-log lad-
bag from the cockpit and we began ders on which Indian slaves clamber-
our long, hot walk. So here we were, poking around ed with their sirones (leather ore
in the rubble, exploring the ruins, buckets) on their aching backs.
At first sight, Ojo Diablo resembles taking pictures, and gaping in won-
any other crumbling adobe ruin. der at the moat. They say the gold cache still is
Thick walls jut skyward. Mud brick- there, too, and that when the mur-
work has collapsed above doors and The place is designated on U.S.
aviation charts as Ojo Caliente. derous Apaches attacked, the Span-
windows, giving the place a sort of iards buried their gold and drove a
snaggle-toothed look, and the ground Either name is descriptive. Ojo Dia-
blo means Devil Spring, and if the band of horses over the spot to con-
is a mess of ankle-twisting rubble. ceal evidence of digging. And this
Why should a couple of ostensibly folk tales are true, the name is
hugely appropriate. Around their is why the ghostly Spanish caballero
sensible guys risk an airplane, as well gallops his ghost horses through the
as life and limb, by landing on a campfires, campesinos whisper tales
of a ghost—the tortured shade of a ruin each night. He is eternally secur-
lonely lake bed of unknown smooth- ing the precious treasure from the
ness and consistency just to visit an long-dead conquistador who nightly
drives a herd of ghost horses at top savage barbarians!
old ruin?
speed through the ruin. Those who Ojo Caliente means Hot Spring.
Well, friend, I'll tell you why. Ojo have seen it say the spectre rides a And this name fits, too, for near
Diablo has one feature that I believe ghostly white stallion, that he wears the ruin are a number of small
to be unique. To my knowledge, no a suit of Spanish armor, and bran- springs, some of which run well-nigh
other ruin in the Southwestern Uni- dishes a Spanish sword. And, for a boiling water. Around these springs
ted States nor Northern Mexico has bone-chilling fillip, he encourages his the heavy mineral content of the
•LA I
by $oe Parrish
water has created colorful deposits, ex- outside edge, but today the ridge has a fort, or presidio, built during the
quisite stone embroidery of varying been worn almost level. late 18th century for defense against
hues that look like Captain Cousteau's the Apaches. Then, again, it might
famous underwater photographs. The For two reasons I can't quite buy not have been. To complicate mat-
lonely, brooding ruin sits atop a small the theory that it was a moat. First, ters the remains of a slag dump lie
rise, the slopes of which are coated what would the conquistadores have nearby. At least, they resembled a slag
with this calcium crocheting. The filled it with? Water from the tiny dump to our unpracticed eyes. They
springs are the handiwork of Nature springs runs only a few feet, then dis- could be residue from an ancient
and have been there for uncounted appears into the thirsty earth. Sec- smithy, of course, but for the sake of
centuries. ond, the thing's not level, but fol- adventure, let's say it's a slag dump
lows the rolling contour of the land. where vanished Spaniards refined
But the ruined buildings? No one
knows who built them . . . or when Could this ditch, and its earth piled their gold. If so, are gold ingots still
. . . or why. Their origin and reason on the outside perimeter of the ridge buried there?
for being are lost in the misty reaches that surrounds the ruin, have been a To soon it was time to go. Reluc-
of time. forerunner of the defensive ditch used tantly, we hiked back to the airplane,
in World War I? If so, it's still unique tied ourselves in, cranked up the en-
The buildings are fairly large. in Spanish-America, for defensive
Rooms extend around three sides of gine, and taxied to the end of the
trenches are not recorded as a device lake bed. As we soared away, George
an ancient courtyard. In places the lor warfare in the New World. But
old walls stand 10 feet high and four circled Ojo Diablo and saluted a
it it were neither moat nor trench, new mystery with a dip of a wing.
feet thick; in other places they have then I give up. Perhaps you'll have
melted down and their adobe return- an answer. But some day I'll return to Ojo
ed to the earth. One room has been Diablo prepared. Next time I'll travel
recently roofed and used as a line Ojo Diablo was not on the famed in a 4-wheeler so I can explore the
camp for vaqueros of the mighty Camino Real, the "Royal Road" from hills for those forgotten gold mines.
Santo Domingo Ranch, within whose Chihuahua City to Santa Fe. Devil I'll take camping gear, food and
endless bounds the ruin lies. Spring is far from any road and far water, prospecting stuff, shovels . . .
Nearby, as distances are calculated from any inhabited area, either an- and a metal detector. And next time
in the vastness of Chihuahua, are cient or modern. It may have been I'll find a solution for that moat. / / /
the famous ruins of Casas Grandes.
This half-buried pueblo recently was
excavated and some interesting facets Mysterious moat that surrounds little, hill of Ojo Diablo may have had other
of an unknown race and culture were purpose.
discovered by the Amerind Founda-
tion. But the ruins at Ojo Diablo are
not Indian. Here they are Spanish,
indicated by several arches in the
walls. The Indians did not know of
the arch as a construction device.
Indian artifacts, however, are plen-
tiful at Ojo Diablo. You practically
kick your way through potsherds and
arrow points, even in the courtyard.
I long since have quit picking up
hunks of pottery, but arrowheads are
something else. George and I filled
a pocket apiece with those, but we
found nothing of Spanish origin.
About that moat. Surrounding the
rise containing the ruin, a depres-
sion forms an almost perfect square
about three-quarters of a mile long
on each side. The ditch, now almost
entirely filled by blow sand, appears
to have been about eight feet wide.
Excavated soil was once piled on the
The Old
Chilean Mill
by Choral Pepper
Q P O T T E D W I T H lichen and half- led them back to a place where they stream bed directly below it and Dana
buried in brush, the Chilean Mill could wait while he rode ahead to has found seven more following on
looked like a relic from a medieval determine a more maneuverable down Silver Creek, but this is the only
torture chamber. Jts yoke, once led route. It was then, following along Chilean Mill. Whereas the common
by a mule in endless circles, rotted on a dry creek littered with boulders and arrastres (heavy stones d r a g g e d
the ground, but the powerful granite paved with slick bedrock, that he around a circular bed by a mule) pro-
wheels that crushed a miner's ore came upon a picturesque glen where vided a crude method for grinding
stood as firmly as a monument to a rock formation caught his attention. ore and amalgamating gold, the Chi-
Forever. Dismounting, he pushed aside the oak lean Mill, witla its vertical rollers, or
thicket and there stood a pair of wheels, running in a circular enclo-
We'd traveled a harrowing route stone wheels as high as his head. His sure with an iron base, was far more
to rediscover this monumental legacy victorious whoop brought the riders efficient. Weighing more than a ton
created by an unknown artisan of on the run and, as Dana tells it, even and constructed from granite boul-
Arizona's early mining era. Old the horses stood spellbound at what ders at the site, it represents an enor-
timers reported that an archaic ore rose from the grotto. For that's the mous accomplishment. Drill marks
crusher existed in the Bradshaws, but way it looks—as if it had sprouted rim the circumference of each wheel,
its exact location had been lost for from a giant bulb. but the drilling was probably for re-
more than half a century. This pre- finement and the major shaping of
sented a challege to Dana Burden, a Our own thrill of discovery was the powerful wheels achieved by heat-
native Ari/onian whose family found- no less. Dana had reached the mill ing the rock and then cracking it
ed Wickenburg's first guest ranch site by horseback, but he hadn't yet with cold water.
three generations ago and who prides established a route to it by 4-wheel
himself, deservedly, on his back-coun- drive. We accompanied his maiden- The originator of this wizardry
try familiarity. Last Fall, as an objec- voyage, in addition to us Peppers, was a magnificent artisan. Nebulous
tive lor the annual 5-day pack trip the party included Sophie Burden, clues to his identity rest with a cache
sponsored by the Burden's Remuda Dana's mother and an ambitious ex- of French coins found near the mill
Ranch, Dana decided to institute a plorer herself; Val and George Boyd, and a morsel of gossip about a French
search for the rumored mill. Remuda Ranch guests from Oak miner who gained renown by harnes-
Ridge, Tennessee; and career girl sing his wife to an arrastre after his
The riders followed on horseback Betty Collins from Los Angeles. mule died. Whether that ingenious
a burro trail alqng the side of a can- Mining activity in this region solution indicates the vision necessary
yon until the precipice grew so steep reached its peak during the late to evolve the Chilean Mill is debat-
that the only way up, down, or out 1880s, so the mill probably dates to able. Another clever Frenchman is
was straight. Forced to retreat, Dana this time. There is an arrastre in the sometimes given credit for the mill,
There's an artificial pond in their the century. In picking his brain, we now live in a cozy wing that over-
front yard which they use for swim- learned about cetyl alcohol, a waxy looks the picturesque stable and hun-
ming, but at one time it was a puddle crystalline solid that is sprayed over dreds of rolling acres and the estate is
at the edge of a large lake. This is a bodies of water to prevent evapora- available for lease.
story of a dam that was damned. tion. Economical, invisible and harm-
Some time ago it seemed a good idea less, we became interested in it as a Wagoner is the name of the town
to dam the Hassayampa River that deterrent to evaporation occuring that serves the people in this area,
runs through a valley adjacent to the from huge desert lakes such as Lake although these days it is a town in
present Cooper ranch, so a temporary Mead and Lake Powell. There is no name only. At one time its school
dam was installed to hold back the reason, from what we learned in this house boasted of 59 students and the
water while a permanent one was con- conversation, why it wouldn't solve a sagging remains of frame houses and
structed. As water collected behind problem currently plaguing conser- wall-less foundations indicate a size-
it a lovely lake shimmered in the vationists. able population. Its post office is
sun, but it didn't remain lovely very believed to be the oldest still in exist-
long. One day a storm brought water The unique flora and scape of the ence in Arizona. Established in June,
rushing over its side. When it ap- desert fascinated both Boyds, but Val 1893, it was given the name of the
peared the levee might break, a rider was astonished at the desert's sophisti- town's founder, Ed Wagoner, and its
was dispatched to Wickenburg to cation. She had recently read John first postmistress was his wife, Min-
arouse help. En route, he stopped at Gunther's new biography of the erva. Stamp collectors get a kick out
a bar to steady his nerves and be- late financier-philanthropist Albert of cancellations from this post office
came so thoroughly tranquilized that Lasker and the last thing she expected and visitors enjoy poking among
he forgot the object of his mission. As to find in Arizona's rugged back coun- relics contained in the frame building.
a result, the flood broke the dam and try was a house owned by his widow,
vollied down the valley killing 40 Mary. This sprawling pink stucco This 4-wheel drive trip with Dana
Chinese laborers and drowning 51 ranch house is locally called "The and Sophie Burden was a new experi-
residents as far distant as Wickenburg. Castle" because of a watch tower on ence for us. Usually we fight our
its gate house and its gardens spiked back country way alone. But, we must
One of the interesting facets of with Italian cypress. In spite of a for- admit, it was nice to have someone
dude ranch life is the people it brings mal setting and 19 bedrooms, each else to do the driving, pack the lunch,
together. This was the first trip West with private sitting room and bath, and assume responsibility for our well-
for Val and George Boyd. George is however, the house is unpretentious being. The next time the "rugged
an atomic scientist and his special and sunny, ft was originally built by life" begins to pall, we intend to re-
project at Oak Ridge is in the desali- Count fames Minotti, once our Am- turn to the Remuda Ranch and do
nization of sea water by atomic bassador to Italy, for his former wife, it again. In addition to 4-wheel drive
energy—a system that will be an ac- a daughter of the Swifts of meat pack- trips, the ranch sponsors daily horse-
complished reality before the turn of ing fame. A caretaker and his wife (Continued on Page 37)
ROCK POLISHER
"Why, that's my first name, Lady. I'm Japan Jicarillo!" Let DESERT say, "Thank you."
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X HERE'S AT least one case where There are thousands of varieties of" eties will wait until another has made
the phrase "stirring up a hornet's hornets and wasps, but they are all a kill and then take over.
nest" had historical significance. members of the same insect order Much of their conduct is not
That was when a British vessel sailed (hymenoptera). Many are called thoroughly understood, hence a good
up the Patuxent River during the yellow jackets, some cow killers, some deal of superstition and legend arises.
War of 1812, and its officers went stone dress, or invisible arrows, but The saying that if a wasp flies into a
ashore to inspect Yankee land. One generally all are considered pests. It house, good luck will follow might
of them spotted a hornets' nest and is a matter of perspective perhaps. have evolved from the fact that most
not knowing what it was, asked a anything would seem like good luck
farmer's boy. Though there are some people to
whom the sting of the wasp is allergic, after being stung by a wasp. But
"Tis the nest of a rare humming and sometimes fatally so, these insects Ozark girls have been known to carry
bird," the boy said. "Just stop up do infinitely more good than harm. little paper wasp nests pinned to
the hole at the bottom; then when They are sudden death to a myriad their underclothes as a good luck
you are about 10 miles at sea, unplug of insects harmful to man and these charm in attracting a handsome
it and you will have mascots that victims provide fare for the eggs of suitor.
will stay with you." the female wasp. Venom from the wasps has been
The officers gravely obeyed the used in treating snake bites, and
boy's instructions and took the nest One variety, the pepsis, is often veterinarians have experimented with
with them. They sailed a short time called the Tarantula Hawk because its effect in relieving colic in horses.
later and residents of M a r y l a n d of its determination to anesthetize There is no question whatever about
watched the vessel as she beat her way and affix an egg on the carcass of its toxicity, but its full effects are
toward the sea. The officers must the huge, hairy spider. The body will not completely understood.
have followed the boy's suggestions supply food to the newly-hatched,
because Lower Malboro residents, wasp long enough for it to begin Amazon Indians believe the wasps
peering through telescopes, saw Ad- fending for itself. The struggle pro- are invisible arrows capable of be-
miral Cockburn and several of his ceeding this macabre ceremony is one witching tribesmen and all such poi-
officers precipitously dive overboard, of the most fascinating aspects of in- sonous insects are considered to be
swords and all! The Calvert Indepen- sect life. demons.
dent later published a bit of doggerel Wasps are not only capable of quite The severity of a forthcoming win-
by Ralph Hinman: ter is often gauged by the relative
prodigious feats of strength and en-
durance but they also represent the position of the wasps' nest: low, the
The hornets surely won the day, winter will be dry and cold; high, the
And made their foes feel shame; highest development of instinct in the
animal kingdom. Not only do they winter will be warm and wet. Ento-
These insects were American have the ability to select victims to mologists are somewhat more prac-
And lived up to their name! stun and feed their young, some vari- tical in realizing that some types seek
high sites, while other species build
lower.
FINE NAVAJO RUGS JEWELRY CRAFTS CATALOG
The Northwest Indians are said to
FREE ^6 pages successfuly cure headaches using a
• Red-Black-Grays Lapidary — rockhounding — jewelry making. wasp nest. This paper-like substance
• Two Gray Hills add up to a fascinating creative art!
is mixed with nettle fibres and rolled
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the head and the headache is gone.
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Little wonder: The victim is so
(In the Desert Magazine Bldg.) concerned with the pains from the
burns, he forgets about his headache!
Highway 111 ' Palm Desert, Calif.
///
38 / Desert Magazine / February, 1965
OiSiRl DISPENSARY the going's gnat!
by Sam Hicks WARN HUBS
Part of a series of articles relating Sam Hicks' first-hand observations ON YOUR
fo the uses made by primitive peoples of nature's products. 4-WHEEL DRIVE
These famous hubs save gas, gears, tires, engine,
improve performance, reduce maintenance cosis,
increase vehicle life by disengaging che from drive
in 2-w.d.—automatically, or with manual controls.
To get the most from your <f-w.d. under all condi-
tions, install Warn Hubs. That's what the majority
of 4-w.d. owners do. Write, or see your dealer.
WARN MFG. CO., INC.
9050-DM Empire Way B.,
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LAND ROVERS
Priced with the Lowest
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NEW — USED
Sales — Parts — Service
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Cypress and Van Buren
Riverside — Arlington
ELDERBERRY, OR Sauco, trees live in close proximity to Elderberry, Phone 68-98440
are almost as much a part of the or Sauco, but the medicinal proper-
Southwest as the chollas, mesquite ties contained in the tree's leaves and
and greasewood. The trees grow along flowers are still widely used. When you respond to an advertise-
the banks of dry arroyos which carry ment, please say that you saw it in
Teas of varying strengths cooked DESERT. The advertiser appreci-
water perhaps once a year, and some- from the flowers are taken by expec-
times not that often. Intermittently ates this information and DESERT
tant mothers for "morning sickness" appreciates your loyalty.
they dot the foothills of the desert, and given to tiny babies for colic. In
growing on sheltered slopes and in Mexico, two glasses of Flor de Sauco
depressions protected from strong tea is still a standard dosage for
winds.
Their pithy branches are weak and
breaking the fever of children suffer-
ing from measles. It is a soothing
anti-acid tonic, which, as a matter of
Metal Detectors
BOUGHT — SOLD — TRADED
they break easily, especially in spring- custom, is sloshed liberally into burn-
time while the limbs are heavy with Dealer For
ing stomachs the morning-after by
leaves and blossoms. The wood is soft the participating members of gala Detectron, Fisher, Goldak,
and useless as a fuel and the foliage Southwestern fiestas. Hot tea is Rayscope, GeoFinder, Metrotech
is not sought as feed by livestock and taken as a reliable cold and flu medi- Repair Service
game animals. cine and Flor de Sauco is also boiled WRITE FOR FREE 24-PAGE BOOKLET
ON DETECTORS, BOOKS AND MAPS.
JUST PUBLISHED!
Original Paintings
by 1965 Four Wheel Drive
"Take the sizzle out of the Sun." Your car up
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(In the Desert Magazine Building) 1625 S. Harbor Blvd. ment. SIDLES MFG. CO., Box 3537D, Temple,
Highway 111 Palm Desert, Calif. Fulierton 7, California Texas.
Newly Designed
The back issues of DESERT MAGAZIISFE are as alive today as the day they were printed.
Packed with information and detailed maps on out-of-the-way places of the West, the articles
are also historically informative for both adults and students. Here are 40 back issues to
enrich, enlighten and entertain you and your friends.
These issues are complete and in good condition. Orders promptly filled, and mailed
postage-paid to any U.S. address, but supplies are limited and we reserve the right
to make appropriate substitutions.
Mail all orders to: Depi. T2, Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
Personal Check or postal order must accompany all orders. Be sure to Include your complete mailing address.