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LOST MINES
GHOST TOWN TRIPS
THE MYSTERIOUS SERIS
desert magazine's
special attractions

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Attractive Brown Vinyl 12-Issue Binders you will be


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To order any or all of these Special
Attractions send check or money
order to Special Attractions De-
partment, Desert Magazine, Palm
Desert, California 92260. Califor-
nia residents please add 4 percent
sales tax.
O N PARKS A N D " O V E R C R O W D E D " O U T D O O R AREAS . . . A
500,000 acre area in eastern Utah contains some of the most spec-
tacular scenery in the world. There are several good gravel roads
suitable for passenger car travel into the interior and yet relatively
few tourists have been in. Now it has been officially designated as
CONTENTS the Canyonlands National Park. Hundreds of thousands of tourists
are expected to swarm into the area . . . the same place that was
ignored until it was designated as a Federal Park . . . A million and
Volume 28 Number 1 a half people jammed into Yosemite National Park last year, resulting
in more than 900 arrests ranging from speeding to murder. There are
January, 1965 214 buildings, stores, hotels, markets and other facilities to provide
material comforts for these people seeking "outdoor recreation." And
yet, the surrounding area outside the Park with miles of beautiful
This Month's Cover country and outdoor solitude is practically devoid of human beings
Ruins at Red Cloud Mine (Story page 12) fleeing from crowded city conditions . . . Opposed by many conser-
By JACK PEPPER vationists as it would "bring thousands of people to the top of Mt.
San Jacinto who would destroy the natural habitat in the surrounding
4 Books for DESERT Readers wilderness area and mar the mountainside" the unobtrusive Palm
Springs Tramway in Southern California, which provides a spectacu-
6 Dichos lar and educational ride from the desert floor to 8000 feet above, is
By RICARDO CASTILLO running behind expected capacity and less than one percent of its
riders venture more than 50 feet away from the upper station, missing
7 Bottle Held Revisited some of the finest forest scenery in the West . . . during the season
By GRACE KENDRICK the designated public beach areas are so crowded you can hardly
sit down and the lakes and streams are a veritable tangle of fishing
8 Isolation, Beauty, Adventure lines.
By V/ILLIAM HEAD
According to recent surveys in California alone, the need for camping
10 Witchin' For Gold has increased from 4,316 sites available in 1961 to a minimum of
By GRACE ARLINGTON
60,000 in 1980, family picnic units from 5,250 to a minimum 1980 re-
quirement of 117,200, and on down the line. The recently passed
12 The Trigos Fallen Arch California bond issue allocating $150 million for financing beach and
By CHORAL PEPPER
park acquisition and development is great for future generations.
But what about the people of the present generation who will be the
19 Lee's Lost Lode teachers of the next generation? Are people who jam into public
By RETTA E. EWERS picnic grounds like sardines (there are even some camping areas
today where you have to put 50c into a parking meter in order to
22 It's Never Drab in Moab park your car) really getting "outdoor recreation?" Are people apprec-
By ROYCE ROLLINS iating nature and the outdoors when they leave the crowded cities
only to crowd themselves next to other people on "camping" trips?
23 Photo of Turret Arch Has civilization progressed so far that people are afraid to be alone?
By CARWIN VAN CAMPEN Near every large metropolitan area in California there are hundreds
of thousands of acres of deserts and mountains accessible by passen-
24 Bajn's Buried Bones ger car over a weekend which offer spectacular scenery, ghost towns,
By J ^ C K PEPPER bottle collecting, rock hunting, flora and fauna for the education of
children. . . Much of this is public land, yet few people visit it outside
26 Seri Country Today of hunting seasons, when hunters are so intent on stalking prey they
By TED TREVOR see nothing else.
30 A Legend Lives For 28 years DESERT Magazine has printed articles and stories on the
By EDNA LANDIN
unusual, uncrowded and educational areas of the West. These areas
still exist today for those who really want to "go forth under the open
32 Homage to the Tufa sky, and list to nature's teaching."
By ALBERT ERVIN THOMPSON DESERT is published monthly by Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, Calif. Second Class Postage paid at
Palm Desert, Calif., and at additional mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Title registered
No. 358865 in U.S. Patent Office, and contents copyrighted 1964 by Desert Magazine. Unsolicited
35 Vulture City, Arizona manuscripts and photographs cannot be returned or acknowledged unless full return postage is enclosed.
By LAMBERT FLORIN Permission to reproduce contents must be secured from the editor in writing. SUBSCRIPTION PRICE:
$4.50 per year (12 issues) in the U.S.; $5.75 elsewhere. Allow five weeks for change of address, and
be sure to send the old as well as new address.
38 DESERT Cookery
By LUCILLE I. CARLESON
JACK PEPPER, Publisher CHORAL PEPPER, Editor
Elta Shively Al Merryman Rose Holly Marvel Barrett
39 Desert Dispensary Executive Secretary Staff Artist Circulation Manager Business Manager
National Advertising Representative
By SAM HICKS GEORGE R. JOSEPH CO.
3959 W. Sixth Street, Los Angeles, Calif. Area Code 213 387-7181
42 Letters from o u r R e a d e r s
Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 Area Code 714 346-8144
43 P h o t o C o n t e s t
January, 1965 / Desert Maaazine / 3
The Antique Bottle Collector
By GRACE KENDRICK

Learn how to date and


few Bads $* tyese
evaluate all bottles of the SILVER THEATRE tic-Alpine Zone of sedge meadow
19th Century.
By Margaret Watson above the timberline.
$2.25 postpaid From its earliest saloons and melo- The aim of the large format, 215-
deons to iis handsome theatres, here page book is to tell exactly where
GRACE KENDRICK is an account of the amusements of and when each kind of Arizona bird
485 W. 4th Street Nevada's mining frontier from 1850 can be found and to tell of that
Failon, Nevada 89406 to 1864. Brimming with anecdotes, which is interestihg about it. Here
quotations and narration of the acti- ornithology is presented as an en-
vities of troupers such as Lotta Crab- gaging pursuit rather than a pom-
tree, Adah Menken, Junius Booth, polis dicta of experts, which is a re-

AUTHORS!
If you have completed a book-length manu-
Virginia Howard and backstage sup-
port from Mark Twain, Dan De
Quille, J. Ross Browne, Julia Bulette,
and a host of others, it is packed with
freshing approach.
Bird lovers everywhere will appre-
ciate this beautiful book, even though
script, you may be interested in our special
publishing plan. Under this program, many
it is slanted toward Arizona. This
lawyers, executives, teachers, scholars and good research material. Hurdy-gurdy reviewer especially recommends it.
even housewives have seen their work pub- girls dancing with silver coins jingl- Hardcover. Price SI5.00. The publi-
lished, promoted and marketed on a digni-
fied, professional basis. All subjects con- ing in their stockings, Mrs. Hayne's cation date was Dec. 1st, so it's hot
sidered — non-fiction, fiction, poetry, etc. creating her own text for Shake-
Send for our free 40-page illustrated bro- off the press! May be ordered from
chure today. Ask for Booklet, D. speare's Ophelia, and other nonsense DESERT Magazine Book Department
VANTAGE PRESS, INC. typical of the time make for fast
120 W. 31st St., New York 1, N.Y. reading. Hardcover, 387 pages, il-
In Calif.: (i2.->:S Hollywood Blvd., L.A. lustrated with photos and reproduc-
In Wash., D.C.: 1010 Vermont Ave., N.W.
tions of old theatre programs. May SHADY LADIES OF T H E WEST
be ordered from DESERT Magazine
Book Department. $9.50. By Ronald Dean Miller
DESERT BINDERS Here's a book that will sell like
hot cakes—and no one will be dis-
Keep your Desert Magazine for appointed. Mr. Miller has covered
years as a reference and guide to this heretofore unexplored area of
future trips. Special 12-issue bind- S O M E WESTERN TREASURE American history with Iivliness and
TRAILS has lost nothing in authenticity.
ers only $3.50 (inc. tax & postage).
By Jesse E. Rascoe
"The West had not only the fastest
DESERT MAGAZINE Here is another Frontier book limi- guns," he writes, "but also the fastest
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 ted to 1000 copies. With maps of Ari- women." He describes the lives and
zona, California, Nevada, Colorado, times of Lola Monte/, Cattle Kate,
New Mexico and Texas, this paper- Highstep Jennie, Madame Feather-
back 80-page book contains a wealth legs, Julie Bulette, and other famous
GHOST TOWNS of information pertaining to elusive girls of the line from San Francisco
wealth—meteorites, gold and silver. to Kansas City.
AND GOLD Author Rascoe covers the well-known
These women, who followed the
LEARN ABOUT THE COLORFUL GHOST lost mines, such as the Gunsight,
TOWNS OF THE WEST — DIRECTORY CON- Dutchman, etc., but also introduces Mountain Men and the Miners, con-
TAINS INFORMATION ON OVER 340 GHOST lesser known ones gleaned from re- tributed to the West's first civilizing
TOWNS FEATURING PICTURES, MAPS, PLUS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PANNING GOLD.
gional lore. It's a good book for lost influence. Many married and attain-
PRICE: $1.00 mine addicts and Rascoe has done his ed respectability by producing some
WRITE TO: research well. $2.00. Available from of the West's most honored citizens.
PIERCE PUBLISHING COMPANY the DESERT Magazine Book Order Others, of course, left a history of
DEPARTMENT R Department. sin.
BOX 5221
ABILENE, TEXAS This 224-page book, hardcover and
illustrated with early photographs,
may be ordered from the DESERT
CALIFORNIA T H E BIRDS OF ARIZONA Magazine Book Department. $6.95.
GHOST TOWN GUIDE By Allan Phillips, Joe Marshall, Gale
Monson
New guide to over 100 California ghost towns
Unique and authentic guide to over 100 Accompanied by 64 full-color repro- AMERICAN GEM TRAILS
ghost towns in California's deserts and moun-
tains with complete directions on how to ductions of field sketches by George
reach them. Shows you the way to little-
known and intrigue-filled towns that provide
Miksch Sutten and action photos by By Richard M. Pearl
hours of interest for those seeking buried Eliot Porter, this book encompasses An unusual feature of this book is
treasures, old guns, western relics, purple
bottles aged by the sun, and antique objects. material relating to 400 species of its collection of individual outline
Satisfaction guaranteed or money back. birds that frequent Life Zones in maps of the United States showing
Order Now! Only $1.95 Arizona ranging from the hot Son- the distribution of various gem stones
A. L. ABBOTT oran desert through oak and pinon so the reader can determine at a
Dept. D-ll woodlands, grassland, transitional glance what to look for in whatever
1513 West Konlneya Drive — Anaheim, Calif.
pine and fir-aspen forests to the Arc- section of the country he happens to

4 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


Choral Pepper Desert Mag
be. The author treats each gem stone Book: Order Department
individually, describing its appear-
ance, chemical composition, mineral WESTERN GHOST TOWN SHADOWS by Lambert THREE PATHS ALONG A RIVER By Tom Hudson.
relationships, origin, geologic occur- Florin. Fourth in a series of superb ghost town Illustrated by Ralph Love. Once a river, the
ences, physical aspects and means of books by DESERT'S favorite khost town writer. San Luis Rey is now only an intermittent
recognition. Then, in a separate Large format, good photos, rousing text. $12.50. stream. History marched beside the river, and
in a sense the Valley of San Luis Rey can
chapter, he deals with its history and GEMS, MINERALS, CRYSTALS AND ORES by called the Gateway to California. The earliest
legends. He describes the discovery Richard Pearl. This collector's encyclopedia is overland travelers coming from Mexico and
of diamonds in glacial rock and diving the best of its kind. Brilliantly illustrated with west from the States traveled the Carrizo Cor-
for jade in California waters. This is full-color photos. Arranged in alphabetical order ridor leading inland through Temecula to the
from Agate to Zircon, it tells where to find Mission of San Gabriel and the Pueblo of Los
a good little 173-page, hardcover them, how to identify, collect, cut and display. Angeles. The Butterfield Stage route crossed
book, packed with information and Hardcover, 320 pages. $6.95. the river near its headwaters. 245 page. Hard
fine black and white photos and il- cover. $6.
lustrations. $5.50. May be ordered PICTURE GALLERY PIONEERS by Ralph W. An-
drews. Remarkable collection of historic photos THE DESERT IS YOURS by Erie Stanley Gardner.
from DESERT Magazine Book De- recording places and events important to the In his latest book on the desert areas of the
partment. West between 1850 and 1875. Also includes West, the author again takes his reader with
lively text. Hardcover, large format, $12.50. him as he uses every means of transportation to
Makes an excellent gift. explore the wilderness areas and sift the facts
and rumors about such famous legends as the
DESERT WILDLIFE by Edmund C. Jaeger. A series Lost Arch, Lost Dutchman and Lost Dutch Oven
BUNKER HILL LOS ANGELES of intimate natural history sketches o f wild ani- mines. 256 pages, illustrated. Hard cover. $7.50.
By Leo Politi mals, mammals, birds, reptiles and insects that
frequent the Southwest desert. Although scien- THE OREGON DESERT by E. R. Jackman and
This colorful book with highly tific in nature, it offers pleasurable reading. R. A. Long. This book is a hard one to define.
styled Victorian illustrations mixes 308 pages, $5.95. A single paragraph may be a mixture of geo-
fact with fancy as it depicts the once- logy, history, biography and rich desert lore.
THE VOICE OF THE DESERT by Joseph Wood The only complete book about the Oregon desert,
elegant Bunker Hill residential dis- Krutch. This book explores the intriguing vari- the material applies equally well to other des-
trict ol Los Angeles. Author-artist ety of life on the Sonoran and Southwest des- erts of the West. The humor and fascinating
Politi drew from memory, precious erts by one of the country's most distinguished anecdotes coupled with factual background and
writers. Covers flora, fauna, and philosophy.
old photos, and word-of-mouth de- 223 pages, hardcover, $5.00.
unusual photos, including color, make it excel-
lent reading material even for those who may
scriptions from present and former never visit Oregon. 407 pages, illustrated. Hard
residents to bring alive the gaiety of DESERT WILD FLOWERS by Edmund C. Jaeger.
Cover. Third printing, $6.50.
grand parties, the excitement of fire Revised edition of this authoritative, best selling
book contains a key to aid in identification and LOST MINES AND HIDDEN TREASURES by Le-
wagons, the cat on the roof and the a list of name changes. This books is a "must" land Lovelace. Authoritative and exact accounts
old man snoozing on a shaded Bun- for desert travelers and botanists. Well illustrated give locations and fascinating data about a lost
ker Hill porch. His whimsical draw- with a text understandable by amateurs, DESERT lake of gold in California, buried Aztec ingot
ings produce a book to prize. Enough particularly recommends it. 322 pages, hard- in Arizona, kegs of coins, and all sorts of excit-
cover, published by Stanford University Press. ing booty for treasure seekers. Hardcover, $4.00.
is left of Bunker Hill to be able to $5.00. Order from DESERT Magazine Book Dept.
distinguish certain landmarks in the THE DINOSAUR HUNTERS, Othneil C. Marsh
book, but by 1970 wrecking cranes PAINTERS OF THE DESERT by Ed Ainsworth. A and Edward D. Cope, By Robert Plate. A dual
will have leveled the remaining cur- beautifully illustrated and well-written roundup biography of the first dinosaur hunters whose
of 13 of the desert's outstanding artists—Dixon, bitter rivalry split the scientific world for about
licued buildings and replaced them Forsythe, Swinnerton, Fechin, Eytel, Lauritz, Buff, 25 years but whose exploits of the 1870s and
with the long straight lines of today. Klinker, Perceval, Hilton, Proctor, McGrew, and 1880s excited the public imagination and made
Bender. Folio size, gold-stamped hard cover. dinosaurs a household word. Easy reading, the
Containing five chapters, this large Full color reproductions. 125 pages. $11.00. book is packed with action resulting from the
9x12 format reeks with the color of intense feud between Marsh and Cope, both
ANZA-BORREGO DESERT GUIDE by Horace Par- wealthy men who exhausted their fortunes in
prize-winning artist Politi's great il- ker Second edition of this well-illustrated and the arduous hunt for the creatures of the past.
lustrations. Hardcover. $9.00. May be documented book is enlarged considerably. Tops 281 pages. Hard Cover. $4.95.
ordered from DESERT Magazine among guidebooks, it is equally recommended
Book Department. for research material in an area that was crossed GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLS by Nell Mur-
by Anza, Kit Carson, the Mormon Battalian, '49ers, barger, the well known "roving reporter of the
Railroad Survey parties, Pegleg Smith, the Jack- desert." The author's just-published book is an
ass Mail, Butterfield Stage, and today's adven- intimate chronicle of Arizona's once-booming
turous tourists. 139 pages, cardboard cover. mining towns, stage stations, army posts, mar-
INDIAN ART IN MIDDLE $2.95. May be ordered from DESERT Magazine auding Indians and fantastic human characters.
AMERICA Book Dept. 380 pages, illustrated. Hard Cover. $7.50.
By Frederick J. Dockstader NEVADA'S TURBULENT YESTERDAY by Don Ash- GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAIL by Nell Mur-
This truly great book covers both baugh. Illustrated with a fine collection of old barger is a fast moving chronicle of Western
ancient and modern art of the entire photos and throbbing with exciting tales of boomcamp and bonanza. Rich in human interest
Nevada's robust past, this an authentic ghost as well as authentic history, this book covers
middle American geographical area— town history written by one of Nevada's favor- ghosttowns of Nevada, western Utah and eastern
from the Rio Grande to South Amer- ite authors. Hard cover. 346 pages. $7.50. California. Hardcover, 291 pages. Price $6.75.
ica, including islands of the West
Indies. Each of the 250 full-color il-
lustrations is documented with an ex- Send Check or Money Order to:
planatory caption and informative,
easily read text. Because the Spanish DESERT Magazine Book Order Department
were more interested in gold than in Palm Desert, California 92260
the cultural aspects of the civilizations Include 25c for postage and handling. California residents must add 4% sales tax.
they found here only 400 years ago, Please do not ask to be billed.
SPICE YDUR
Recommended Books on
SPANISH WITH BAJA CALIFORNIA
DICHDS
it wasn't until recent years that in-
By Ricardo Castillo
AND MEXICO
terest in this region's art grew keen. HUNTING THE DESERT WHALE by Erie Stanley
"Dichos" are the pungent Spanish Certain generalizations in Middle Gardner. Among the first Americans to ever
proverbs which add so much color American art may be made. Clay camp at Scammon's Lagoon in Baja California,
and logic to the conversation and figurines suggest a preoccupation if not the first, Gardner learned, while hunting
thinking of our Mexican neighbors. with "doing things" as subject mat- the great grey whale with a camera that they
don't sit graciously for portraits! Whale hunting
ter and love of stone for its own sake and beach combing for rare treasures make for
"Ser como el perico que dice lo is evident in their ability to coordin- exciting reading. Hardcover, 208 pages, illus-
que sabe, pero que no sabe lo que ate design with natural form. Other- trated with photos. $6.00.
dice." wise, there is no criterion common THE HIDDEN HEART OF BAJA by Erie Stanley
Gardner. The noted creator of the best-selling
Like the parrot, you say what you to all Middle American civilizations; mysteries of our time has written several books
know, but you do not know what you a fact which gives variety to collec- on Baja California and the desert areas of the
say. tions such as portrayed here. West. With his talent of combining adventure
Further words would be excessive and mystery with facts, the author takes you
with him as he probes the mysteries of "The
"No quiero que Dios me de, sino in attempting to describe this book. Hidden Heart of Baja" and tells how he dis-
que me ponga donde haya." It is expensive—$25—but each of its covered an archeological find of major impor-
large format, 221 pages is unsurpassed tance thus opening up a new concept regarding
"I don't ask God to give me much, by any other publication on this sub- cave paintings. 256 pages, illustrated with color
just put me where there's plenty. ject known to us. Those interested in photos of Indian paintings. Hard cover. $7.50.
Pre - Columbian and contemporary LOWER CALIFORNIA GUIDE BOOK by Gerhard
"Quien con aguardiente cena, con arts and crafts of Mexico, Central and Gulick. The authors have revised the third
agua se desayuna." edition to bring it up to date. Veteran travelers
America and the Caribbean will want in Baja California would not venture south of
He who dines on whiskey, will to have it. May be ordered from the border without this authoritative volume. It
breakfast with water. DESERT Magazine Book Department. combines the fascinating history of every loca-
tion, whether it be a town, mission or aban-
doned ranch, with detailed mileage maps and
locations of gasoline supplies, water and other
MODERN Order a needed information on Baja. 243 pages with
MINERAL
PROCESSING
FREE three-color folding map, 16 detailed route maps,
4 city maps, 22 illustrations. Hard cover. $6.50.
FLOWSHEETS Desert-Southwest Book Catalog
MEET FLORA MEXICANA by Walter Pesman. Ab-
Over 100 flowsheets More than 75 Southwestern titles. His- solutely essential for travelers into Old Mexico
—data on over 200 important tory, lost mines, Indian lore, adventure, or Baja who want to know the names, uses and
minerals—mill designs, metallurgical summaries. gunmen, nature subjects, art of the area, habits of flora that grows along roads and
A one-volume encyclopedia! Year's most usefu! guide books, travel, ghost towns, desert highways. Well illustrated with lively text. 278
book! Available in two editions: Deluxe edition legends. pages. Paperback, $4.00.
$10.00; student's edition $6.60 per copy (plus post-
age). Unconditional money-back guarantee. Book For your free Desert-Southwest Book A SOUTHWESTERN UTOPIA By Thomas A. Rob-
sent postpaid anywhere in the world, it payment Catalog, send your name and address to: ertson. An American Colony in Mexico. Half
accompanies order. Mail order to: a century ago some 2000 Americans, pioneers,
Technical Publication Dept. D M
Denver Equipment Co.
Desert-Southwest Book Store idealists and adventurers trekked into north-
western Mexico intent on forming a cooperative
1400 - 17th St., Denver, Colorado 80217
P.O. Box 757 Palm Desert, California colony. The author (reared among the colonists)
tells of the trials, failures and successes of
DESERT Subscription Service colony life. This book, describing the people
and life in Mexico's Sinaloa will be enjoyed by
those who dream escapist dreams. 266 pages.
g i Enter a Subscription • To Change Your Address Hard cover. $5.95.
u\ Magazines are no longer forwarded by the post FROM NEW SPAIN BY SEA TO THE CALIFOR-
office when you move. To insure uninterrupted NIAS by Maurice G. Holmes. Here is an account
•g (Address Change Only • delivery please attach your magazine address of the exploits of Cortes, Atvarado, Cabrillo and
label here and print your new address below. de Mendoza containing a wealth of new material
dug up by the author from archives in Spain.
• 1-year subscription It covers an era of Baja's history prior to the
$4.50 mission era that is ignored by most historians.
• One 2-year subscrip- Name 307 pages. $11.00.
tion, or,
THE FORGOTTEN PENINSULA By Joseph Wood
D Two 1-year sub-
scriptions . $8.50 Krutch. An exciting account of the author's ex-
o Address ploits in Baja California told with wit and wis-
dom. It includes information about the boojum
Foreign subscribers add 75c tree, the gray whales of Scammon's Lagoon,
per subscription. • New • Renewal elephant trees and historical sketches of inter-
esting sites. 277 pages. $5.00.
To Give a Desert Subscription MEXICO BY AUTO, CAMPER, TRAILER by Cliff
Print your name and address above, and name and address oi recipient below. Cross. An excellent travel guide containing 50
maps, money-saving tips, motels, hotels, trailer
space, camping, hunting and fishing areas along
with a wealth of general information. Soft
cover, large format, $2.95.

• New G Renewal Order from:


DESERT Magazine Book Department
Sign Gift Card: "From_ Palm Desert, California 92260
• Payment Enclosed • Bill Me Later Include 25c for postage and handling.
California residents add 4% sales tax.

6 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


BOTTLE FIELD REVISITED
BYGRACEKENDRICK
I T WAS ONE of those bright blue the four oval-sided olive bottles that teams and the rattles of wagons in
and gold Nevada days when every turn a deep amethyst in the sun, sev- the dusty street.
shrub looks newly minted, c l e a n eral tall wines and a tall slim, antique Down the boardwalk on a side
and fresh. It had been 12 years since bud vase all comprised a satisfactory street lined with old frame cabins,
we first dug bottles in Goldfield, but day's digging and proved that bottle you'll hear echoes of family life on a
we knew more about our hobby now. fields considered already "overwork- still night—the crying of a baby, bark-
We knew there was no point in wast- ed" still have plenty in their coffers ing of dogs, sounds of children at
ing time hunting on the surface. if you are willing to dig. play. It is all there for those inter-
Rather—like the gold diggers who ested — the happiness, sorrow, pain,
made this town famous, we'd have After loading our lode to carry glory and the everlasting struggle just
to "mine." It wasn't long until we home, we decided to take a little tour to live in harsh desert land. Never-
began to hit "pay dirt." On the rocky of Goldfield, for this old camp has theless, Goldfield is beautiful, with its
side of a gulch we dug into a veri- a golden heritage, not only of valu- colorful maze of old mine dumps
table cache of French and Italian able metal, but of history, romance etched with spidery head frames.
wine bottles—94 to be exact! and struggle.
Sometimes it's good for the spirit,
These lovely, bulbous, long-necked Pause for a brief moment and you'll traveling back in imagination to our
bottles, while not as old or as valu- hear the quiet atmosphere come alive. desert's early times. While we enjoy
able as many bottles, are good ex- You'll hear the tinkle of honky tonk the historic old camps and their trea-
amples of free blown skill. No two pianos, the clink of a faro table, boi- sures, it keeps us aware of the 20th
alike, they show bubbles, dimples and sterous crowds of miners celebrating Century comforts and treasures that
imperfections and come in pale and a new strike or, just because it was enable us to enjoy the old ones more.
deep greenish aqua or with an amber Saturday night, the clop, clop of in
cast. Of three sizes, some have Chi-
anti etched on the side, bits of labels
with other names, and many held
Tuscany wine from Italy where they
are yet being blown and covered with
a protective hand woven holder of
straw. fe
We also found an amber whiskey,
a near native from San Francisco, and
an aqua beer bottle from the Sioux
City Brewing Co. Who knows how
it journeyed so far! Although not
collectors' items yet, they add inter-
est and variation to our collection
and, of course, their value will in-
crease with time.
An amethyst olive oil, an aqua
H.H.H. horse liniment, a Carter's
pour ink, Mellins food and one of

. •
tnmim. 1 OR C. I Tioo^rt \K ~-S / •»
BURTONS' HISTORIC T R O P I C O

GOLDMINE MILL
Go Underground on Guided Tours
9OO-ft. Shaft—Open Slopes—Glory Hole—
Gold Ore In Vein — Mining Drilla and
Tools in Place.

IX* *X Southern California's Largest Gold Mill.


l/ICITm Milling Process explained. See where
Millions in Gold have been recovered.

Through Early Day Collection of


Mining Relics and Antiques
in T H E
' MUSEUM AND OLD
GOLDCAMP.
PAN FOR GOLD
IN ANTELOPE VALLEY

TOUR TIMES
Weekdays — 10:30 A . M . and 2 P.M.

WE ARE CLOSED M O N D A Y A N D TUESDAY

BURTONS' TROPICO GOLD MINE


AND MILL TOURS, Inc. for those who seek . . .
ROSAMOND, KERN COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

ISOLATION, BEAUTY, ADVENTURE


PEACE RIVER BOAT TRIPS by william head
ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
Fishing, photography, gemstones, fossils,
gold panning, mountain climbing, deserted
R. . ED ROCK Canyon did not play
an important part in the building of
S1000 was recovered in Reed Gulch,
located near Red Rock. Old mine
trading posts, abandoned gold mines.
Fall Moose hunting with horses, 2 and 3
the old West. William Manly found shafts and cabins may still be found,
day scheduled trips leave Fridays and Mon- water there after he and his party but the canyon's only permanent
days respectively. Charter trips at any time. escaped death in Death Valley in population consists of ghosts.
For brochures, information, reservations 1849, but he made little mention of This strange and beautiful canyon
write airmail or phone the canyon's beauty. Later, in the is on the major route between Los
KYLLO BROS. '70s, the old stage line from Los An- Angeles and Reno, Nevada, via the
Class " A " Licensed Guides & Outfitters
Box 511, Fort St. John, B.C., Canada
geles to Owens Valley watered stock Owens Valley and majestic Mt. Whit-
Phons 604-785-3027 at a spring in the canyon. Then, in ney. New four-lane U.S. Highway 6
Mile 47 on Alaska Highway 1937, a homesteader discovered mines was completed only three years ago
in the vicinity of her home, which and runs along the creekbed of Red
TREASURE made a little news. Today the can- Rock Creek, extending through walls
New trans stor models yon wins attention as the stage for of weird sculptures. There's a Ca-
detect buri d gold, Easter sunrise services and as an thedral with Praying Nuns, an am-
silver, coin 1Q95 occasional location for filming West- phitheater, temples, palaces, and a
firearms. Fo I J up ern movies, but its greatest asset, veritable holocaust of monsters.
or underwat KITS,
exploration . Expl UNDERWATER in addition to its distinctive coloring Obsidian, pumice and other types
beaches, ghost MODELS and formations, is the fact that it of volcanic rock prove that the can-
towns, wai AVAILABLE
is so little known.
abandoned Write yon was once the center of great erup-
shacks. Worrks lor /fee
The gold found here was not tive activity. Strata was deposited,
through catalog
mud, water enough to lure miners from Bodie layer upon layer, in horizontal order
concrete,
wood.
RELCO and Virginia City, but it has been upon a floor of crystalline rocks to
BOX 10563
HOUSTON 18,
reported that a million dollars was a depth of several thousand feet.
TEXAS taken from its mines. According to Moderate consolidation has t a k e n
legend, one single nugget worth over place over the years, tilting some of

IMPERIAL VALLEY
National National
HORSE SHOW DUNE BUGGY MEET
January 1, 2 and 3
December 27 and 28
Buttercup Valley Sand Dunes
Cattle Call Arena Near Holtville and El Centro
BRAWLEY, California Just Off U.S. Highway 80

FOR FREE COLOR BROCHURES AND INFORMATION WRITE I.V.D.A., IMPERIAL. CALIFORNIA

8 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


about two and one-half miles. The

1Festival
hills along the main highway are un-
riverside countip

1
derlain by folded sandstone strata of
the Ricardo formation and capped NATIONAL
by Pleistocene terrace gravels. Agate,
brown jasper, quartz, and crystals
have been found in the canyon, but
collectors will find rare specimens
only if they hike back from the high-
way. Mammal remains have been
found in the upper part of the Ricar-

I
do formation and petrified trees in
the Last Chance Canyon adjoining
Red Rock.
Most of Red Rock Canyon is form-
ed of comparatively soft conglomer-
ate rock, making the life of the can-
yon, in a geological sense, rather
short. There are places where erosion
is eating it away, yet at the same
time higher up on the mountainside
new formations are being deposited
to counteract nature's leveling action.
In springtime the blue of lupine,
violet of Indian paintbrush and gol-
den splash of poppy accent the
scene. The best hours for photogra-
the strata as much as 45° from the phy are early morning or late after-
horizontal. The entire formation has noon when weird shadows haunt the

I
been deeply eroded, with much of

j!.l .
cliffs. But even in the spring the
the lost material escaping in the flood canyon can be hot, or the creek sud- FEB.12 THRU 22",'65
waters of Red Rock Creek. denly become a raging river in a
The highway follows what is Hash flood, so observe all precautions INDIO, CALIFORNIA
known as the Ricardo formation for for desert camping and travel. / / /

A Thrilling Adventure in the Resort Area on the Sunny Side oj California

THREE DAY ESCORTED TOUR


Includes: Over 400 miles of narrated sightseeing by motorcoach, in Death Valley
Admission and Tour of Death Valley Scotty's Castle.
Two nights at Fred Harvey's famous Furnace Creek Ranch.
Motorcoach Transportation from either Los Angeles, Las Vegas or Baker.

VIEWING:
ESadwater (lowest point on the western hemisphere).
Colorful Artists Drive and Zabriskte Point. Phenomenal Ubehebe Crater, Devil's
Golf Course, roughest part of the earth's surface. Sand Dunes.

DEPARTURES EVERY TUESDAY-FRIDAY-SUNDAY


From Los Angeles — $57.00 From Las Vegas, Nevada—$57.00 From Baker, California — $52.00
Departs Biltmore Hotel 8:00 A.M. Departs Greyhound Depot 11:05 A.M. Departs Greyhound Depot 2:00 P.M.
IT-LA-3-RT — 3 days - 2 nights—Circle Tour Departs Stardust Hotel (Strip) 11:20 A.M. IT-BA-3-RT—3 days-2 nights—Circle Tour
From Los Angeles—Return to Los Angeles IT-LV-3-RT—3 days 2 Nights—Circle Tour From Baker—Return to Baker
IT-LA-3-OW-3 days-2 Nights—One Way Tour From Las Vegas—Return to Las Vegas Connecting Service From All California
From Los Angeles—Terminate Las Vegas IT-LV-3-OW-3 days-2 nights—One Way Tour Points by Greyhound to Baker
From Las Vegas—Terminate Los Angeles
CHILDREN Fares: Under 12 years—Deduct $17.50 on Los Angeles and Las Vegas Departures. Deduct $15.00 on Baker Departures.

For Information and Brochure Call or Write:

WANDERLUST DEATH VALLEY TOURS


(RIDDLE SCENIC TOURS) 215 W. FIFTH STREET, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
METAL & MINERAL
LOCATORS by .
to
HINDER
ALWAYSBETTER ALL WAYS
'LITERATURE
BOX 3 7 , LAKEWOOD, CALIFORNIA

WITCHIN' FOR GOLD


Metal Detectors
BOUGHT -
Dealer For
SOLD - TRADED
by Grace Arlington
Detectron. Fisher, Goldak,
Rayscope, GeoFinder. Metrotech THOSE long-ago days of ing talent has never caused a man to
Repair Service the Spanish Conquistadores and Ponce dig a dry hole, though in an earlier
WRITE FOR FREE 24-PAGE BOOKLET de Leon men have searched for gold era religion might have brought per-
ON DETECTORS, BOOKS AND MAPS. and a fountain of youth. Now comes secution. When witchcraft first rear-
Wilson W. Adams of Cactus, Arizona, ed its head, the water dowser was said
BILL'S SERVICE CENTER who claims to know a way to find to be possessed and an academic thesis
15502 So. Paramount Blvd.
Paramount California both. written at Wittenburg, Prussia, once
"Fresh air, plenty of exercise, and "proved" the divining rod was tainted
the excitement of witchery," says the by Satan.
CHANGING ADDRESS?
70-year-old desert dweller, skittering But in Adams' hands the rod en-
New postal regulations make it important
that you send your change-of-address notice like a young man up mountain slopes tices interest. "Want to know how to
to us promptly. And please remember to list and across miles of rough terrain. witch for water?" he asks, when
your old address as well as your new and
Tall, straight, and bearded, with his people gather to watch him work.
your Zip Code.
DESERT Magazine-Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 long hair braided down his back, He cuts a forked branch from a
Adams enjoys his listeners reactions native tree or bush. Says it works
when he claims he can divine for better. Grasping the slender ends in

FREE! Helpful brochure


water and—as though that doesn't tax
our credulity enough—has a sure-fire
method lor locating gold and urani-
each hand he holds it out in front
with the Y pointing away from him.
Then he walks slowly back and forth
um, so he says. over the area where someone hopes
for rock hobbyists! "And witchin' keeps a man young," to sink a well. Suddenly he stands
This new brochure, he insists. still.
fresh off the presses, is "There she goes," he shouts, as the
available without His words bring wonder to the faces
charge to rock hobby- of his listeners, or disbelief, awe, or slick begins to point down. "Look at
ists and readers of a wild hope that here is a get-rich- it! 1 can't hold it! There's water down
Desert Magazine. Spe- quick scheme for those who aren't there. Wherever the sticks p o i n t ,
cial sections on sharp- lucky enough to win a pot of gold there's water, be it rainy Illinois or
ening, reversing and by entering contests. dry Arizona."
installation of diamond
blades for better lapi- The mystery of the water witch Scientific doubts of such a state-
dary cutting ... also has defied logical solutions for ages. ment were offered as early as the
includes useful tips on How can a forked twig from a willow 17th Century. Yet, there are an esti-
coolants, lubricants, or peach tree possess a magic that mated 25,000 dowsers in the United
speeds and feeds, and will point to water far down in the States today. A recent study of the
other suggestions on phenomenon "proves" that the power
how to get longer and better wear from ground? Weighty arguments h a v e
proven that it can't; that he who of the divining rod is rnere foolery:
your cutting equipment. Compact and Anthropologist Evan S. Vogt and
easy-reading, well-illustrated. Write would divine for water is a fakir and
today for your copy. a deceiver of gullible people. psychologist Ran Hyman, a General
Electric consultant, came up with the
But arguments just as weighty prove explanation suspected by others—
Please mail me your free brochure, "Do's that it can, and Adams has spent a that the dowser grips the twig so
& Don'ts for Lapidary Cutting." tightly for such a long period that
lifetime in what he claims is the best
Name proof of all—the doing of the thing. finally he is forced to relax, and some-
Address how this reflex action points the stick
He has cut the mysterious willow down.
City, State twigs and told men where to locate
Dept. D-l | A M O N D PRODUCTS
M|< D water across the continent in a zig-zag But Adams doesn't grip the stick
12600 Chadron, path from Illinois, where he was tightly for long periods. Sometimes
Hawthorne, Calif. raised, to the East and then westward it indicates water after he walks only
M K DIAMOND • SINCE 1866 to Arizona where he says his bewitch- a few seconds. And at that spot he

10 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


about that. I've got a detector. I'm
going to get it." And the man stalked
off toward his truck.
Soon he was back with a metal
detector, approaching the spot where
Adams stood grinning. Sure enough.
As the stranger neared the spot, the
instrument started its telltale click-
right where the magic sticks indicated
gold.
"Well, what do you know?" Adams
laughed. "Your fool contraption
works!"
"Say, how the devil do you do
that?" the man asked.
Adams' eyes glinted with pleasure.
"Here, you try it," he said, releasing
his stick. "They talk to a man."
But they won't talk to everyone.
You can, however, participate by plac-
ing your hands over Adams' as the
sticks are bending down toward the
ground. His hands convey to yours a
tingling sensation, much like the vi-
brations of the old-time electric-shock
machine.
Other dowser's hands convey the
same power. In California, a water
witch who has located over 1000 wells,
shows the same vibrating of his hands
when another's are placed over them.
Writer Gaston Burride went to inves-
tigate. He tried to water witch, but
couldn't even get a spook out of the
sticks. Then, with the dowser's hands
lightly over his, the sticks started
down. Burridge gripped them might-
ily, determined not to let them bend
down—and one branch broke off, he
claims.

can lay the willow down, then pick Perhaps the most bewitching thought There's something more about
it up, and immediately it points to- is that he can find radium. Therein Adams' hands. When they come near
ward the ground. may lie the solution to this most per- a Geiger counter, it starts clicking,
plexing ol riddles. Radiation, still suggesting that he himself might be
Me claims no occult powers. Sug- radio-active. Could this have some-
gestions of extra-sensory perception comparatively unknown, has earned
the limelight of scientific study dur- thing to do with his powers of
leave him cold. But he knows what witchery? Might it be dependent on
he knows—where the sticks point if ing Adams' 70 years. It was by chance
that he came into contact with it. a particular quality of radiation in
a well is sunk there's water. Now his body?
something has happened that may He got himself two white sticks
oiler a solution. It came about when "1 don't know about that," says his
and crossed them at one end. On the
he was using what he claims is a new wife, Grace. "I've known Wilson for
<ross he tied a small cloth bag that
talent. 58 years and 1 still don't know when
held a bit of rock containing gold.
to believe him. If he can find gold
When he hit Arizona, the gold bug Then he started out, walking over
with those little sticks, why was he
bit him, raising a lever from which he the mountain on which he had staked
talking about selling his trailer to
has never recovered and luring him a claim. Straight out in front he
get money to buy a metal detector?"
over miles of wasteland in the belief held the sticks, like a drummer in a
thai veins of precious metals awaited home-town parade. Marching, march- And, so the mystery goes. Some
those who sought them. But where? ing. Suddenly the sticks bent down- claim they can divine for gold, some
He hadn't much patience with the or- ward. Excitedly, he sought the exact lor water, others for both. Whatever,
dinal) prospector's haphazard chip- spot where the pull was strongest. it sparks a man's imagination and
ping of rock. Wilson Adams demand- While he searched, a man ap- challenges science to solve a mystery.
ed a more certain method. And what proached. Only one thing is sure. Anyone can
could be better than two white sticks witch for gold, fust get some sticks
in the hands of a water witch? He "What you got there?" the new- and start tramping. The gold you
claims to be able to find precious comer demanded. find may not be metal, but you'll
metals with it. "Sticks. I can find gold with them." keep that /estful zip that feeds the
fountain of youth. Who could ask
Does that make him a gold witch? "The hell you say. We'll just see for a greater bonanza! ///
The Trigo's Fallen Arch
by CHORAL PEPPER
T H O U G H T of another jungle- swished in the foliage. Crackles, published in October '64. In this
of a steaming, hot creeping mahog- whines, whirrs and buzzes haunted letter, which Mr. Jackson requested
any forest in Central America where the black shadows. It wasn't like any we forward to Erie Stanley Gardner,
our train paused every mile or so desert ought to be. And very shortly he suggested that a mine he had
while dark-skinned natives cut away it reached an end. come upon in the Trigos two years
roots over-growing the tracks. But We were following the Colorado ago might be the famous Lost Arch
this was different. This was a jungle River north of Yuma. Our narrow, Mine referred to in Gardner's book,
in the desert! Instead of mahogany, dirt road had passed from a public The Desert Is Yours, parts of which
teak and orchids, we pushed through camp ground amid palo verde groves appealed in DESERT, December '63.
tamarisk, bamboo and spidery nets into naked sunbaked hills. We open- At the time of the Jackson letter, Mr.
woven through great crowded trees ed the gate of the Imperial National Gardner was occupied with other
growing horizontally along the Wildlife Refuge and drove through matters, but took the idea seriously
ground. a melee of chalk mountains and lava enough to suggest that DESERT in-
boulders.. The roughest part of our stitute a first-hand investigation.
Protecting his eyes with a camera,
Jack squeezed among branches that trip lay ahead. We were looking for Even so, we hesitated. The saga of
snapped against the car. In a narrow the Lost Arch Mine! the Lost Arch has been told and re-
dirt road he held a light meter into Lost mine alficionados will ridicule told in past issues of DESERT, as
heavy shadows and focused. Then he a search lor the Lost Arch on the well as in a number of books. Half-
duiked back into his seat. east side of the Colorado, but not so heartedly we riffled through our old
authorities like Erie Stanley Gardner. photo files. But we didn't remain
"What's your hurry?" I asked. It was he who, indirectly, stimulated hall-hearted very long. Gardner was
"Noises," he answered, l o o k i n g this trip. DESERT readers will recall surprised to discover two arches when
sheepish. 1 opened my window and a letter to the Editor from N. T. he explored the Turtle Mountains to
knew what he meant. Unseen wings Jackson of Calipatria, California, gather material lor his book, either
12 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965
one ot which may have held the secret
ci
of the lost lode. Our files revealed
three arches, each attributed to the
Lost Arch Mine legend. And none
of our three resembled his two! With ?;"'-^,ll-§-'^ '•'•'.' ''•••••••i''i' : '"•'
that, we took a closer look. What of
these numerous arches, we asked our-
selves? Which arch, if any, is the
arch?
^{f/^:W% "I.
Further research proved only one
thing. The Lost Arch Mine has more
faces than Eve. In addition to natu-
ral arches, one famous legend describ-
ed a man-made one—an adobe arch
erected to connect two huts occupied
by the Mexicans who discovered and
worked the mine. Diversion doesn't
end there. In another version, its dis- MINE ;
1$^ '••"%*•/•<
coverer was an American named Ams- MINE ;'='='-"- "'.$pr
den and in still others, a pair of pros-
pectors named Crocker and Fish.
Then, again, a German naturalist
named Kohler was to guide a pros-
pector named Packer to the famous
arch, but met with a fatal accident
ij ^ J
i/
roJ^C^ii ^
* / : ' . • • •i-'..»S:xL?£O CLOUD M/Nf
• ' v, >v
en route. These are only a few of
the fables that shroud the Lost Arch ''", ' ..•• j ^ . ^ j V x e L / i ' C K ROCK MINE
Mine. In addition, its location has
been variously reported in the Tur-
tles, in the Old Woman Mountains
and in the Whipples—all of Califor-
nia.
So what provocation have we to
consider it in the Trigo Mountains
on the Arizona side of the Colorado
River? Very little, other than the
fact that in Gardner's version the
discoverer, named Fish, expired in Red Cloud Mine to
Ehrenberg where his partner had Martinez Lake~l7MI.V
taken him for medical attention a few Yuma--55.7Mi.
davs following his rich discovery. If
Fish had been wandering down the ed it might have had an association stern-wheeler Cocopah that carried
west bank of the Colorado, thirst- with the Lost Arch Mine is because freight to and from mining camps
maddened and hall-dead with expo- it had caved in at the top and the along the Colorado in 1878, reported
sure, why, then, didn't they seek formation that appears to have once a mountain called "Pot Mole" on
medical help in Blythe on the Cali- formed an arch is a V-shaped slit. which were found remains ol ancient
fornia side? Why would they take Mr. Jackson suggests that this change habitations, line pottery and strange
ihe time to ferry the river to Ehren- in structure might have resulted in weapons i n d i c a t i v e of a civilization
berg? Furthermore, who can prove the loss of the rich vein's identifyingfar more advanced than that of the
they were wandering down-river landmark. Indians found there by white man.
rather than up; or on the west bank "There are rich gold mines in this
The only way to settle the matter mountain," Francis Berton continued,
rather than the east? In those days a was to go ii]) and take a look. This writing in his diary, "and in only a
canny prospector didn't disclose even we did, and it turned out to be our few days two Americans found a poc-
the approximate location of a rich most exciting desert adventure to ket containing about $7000 in large
placer before he'd staked and record- date.
ed his claim. nuggets."
It was late afternoon when the References arc vague concerning
Considering all, only one factor load drew (lose to the river about 2:> this mountain. There is a hill on the
comes through loud and clear: there miles north of Yuma and we found California side near Laguna Dam
was an arch in conjunction with the ourselves in the jungle. Unable to which old-timers refer to as the pot-
lost rich vein. This, of course, was turn around and return to the camp- holes, but to thirsty prospectors any
a safe enough revelation on the part ground in the reserve, we pushed on. location containing rock basins deep
of its discoverer. In those days any Happily, the jungle was short lived enough to hold rain water was likely
prospector hardy enough to mount and soon opened into a wide wash to acquire such a name and there
a burro knew that the Turtle, Whip- where smoke trees mingled with mes- were potholes on each side ol the
pie and Old Woman ranges were cjtiite and palo verde and even a river. To further complicate matters,
lousy with arches. paradoxical saguaro shot up here and the river (hanged its course a number
there. of times before dams were construc-
So now we come to the Jackson
theory. The mine he came upon in Somewhere in this area — between ted. Yuma was once on the Califor-
the Trigos was near the famous old 20 and 18 miles above Yuma — a nia side! The Pot Hole Mountain de-
Clip Mine. The reason he suspicion- Swiss Consul traveling aboard the scribed bv the Honorable Francis
Berton appears to have been on the them of begging coins to model for
Arizona shore one autumn day in photos. When I approached them
1878. Where it is now, no one knows. with my camera, however, t h e y
evaporated into an arroyo.
We noticed a charcoal lighter-
fluid can hanging from a limb oppo- A few diggings scar the hills on
site a trail to the left. Hoping it each side of the road, but the most
indicated a good camp spot, we exciting remnant of early mining in
followed the trail up a hill and then the Eureka district today exists in a
down to a willow-edged lagoon. We legend. It was here in Yuma Wash,
would liked to have camped in this while hiking between Red Cloud
tiny cove with its sandy beach, but Mine to the north and La Fortuna
thoughtless campers had left such a to the south, that prospector John
mess of cans and junk that we stop- Nummel rested in the shade of a
ped only long enough for a quick palo verde tree and enjoyed a swig
swim. of water from his canteen. More
from habit than anticipation, he ham-
Back on the main road, we camped mered a chunk of yellow quartz from
on a knoll beside Indian Wash and a nearby ledge. To his utter astonish-
cooked dinner while the sun dropped ment, it shone with free gold. Not
behind the Trigos. Activity increased equipped to take advantage of the
during the night, but it wasn't hu- strike and, for reasons of his own,
man activity. A family of raccoons not wishing to return immediately to
raided our trash box and at dawn a the Red Cloud, he pocketed the ore
Above: Jack hears loud beeps on his braying burro awakened us. But our and proceeded to La Fortuna where
metal detector greatest thrill in the wildlife depart- he hoped to make enough money to
ment occured while sausage sizzled develop his mine later. However,
over the fire and the aroma of coffee when the eventful day arrived, his
spread far and wide. A mother doe golden ledge was nowhere to be
Below: Robert Carr and friends tell and her lawn crept timidly from a found. All we Peppers can add to
author of their work at the Kathy D cover of sagging mesquite and wan- this saga is that there are a heck of
Mine. dered so close to us that Jack accused a lot of palo verde trees in Yuma
Wash!

We were reveling in the wonderful


quiet of the desert when Trent called
our attention to a radio antenna tow-
ering above a hill to our left. Curious,
we followed a pair of tracks around
the low hill and into a wash. There,
appearing too suddenly for us to
withdraw unobserved, stalked two'
men with holstered guns strapped
around their hips. Jack stopped the
car and approached on foot, relieved,
I think, to see smiles on their faces.
We joined them in the shade of their
canopy to await three members of
their party with whom they were in
communication by radio—a system so
elaborate we accused them of having
the whole desert wired for sound.
Soon the others arrived, dropped
ore samples into a bucket and took
long drinks of water from a huge tank
they'd brought in by trailer. Robert
Carr of Yuma, owner of the Kathy
D Mine in Black Rock Wash, ex-
plained that the other prospectors
were friends who joined him week-
ends to help work his claims. They
hoped to take enough gold from
washes to finance a silver mining
operation.
Actually, in partnership with a
California man, Carr has 15 claims
in the Arizona Silver District, some
of which he hopes to sell. But first
he feels they must prove mining to-
day is profitable—which accounts for
his complex communications system.
Whereas in the old days it wasn't
14 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965
Right: Red Cloud mellows into the
landscape today. Below: Only impres-
sive remain of early grandeur.

safe for a miner to work isolated


areas alone, with a walkie-talkie radio
system, a man can be in constant
touch with workers or supervisors
and two claims can be worked simul-
taneously with only two men. Lou
Monroe, a hobby-prospector in the
radio business, set up the system for
Carr and expects it to pay for itself
in gold dust. Visitors are welcomed
to this camp, especially while its
owner has a few claims to sell!
Back on the main road, which re-
minded us of Baja's Highway No. 1,
we joggled north among a series of
shafts designated on our old mining
map as the Black Rock, Silver Glance
and Papago mines. The country grew
more rugged as we progressed, al-
though Carr's party reported that
they'd driven as far as Red Cloud in
late model passenger cars.
Jack stopped at a fathomless cavity
we pegged as the Black Rock mine to
see if our Goldak detector would
register any minerals still under- Our next stop was Red Cloud writer Harold Weight when he visit-
ground. During productive days, Sil- mine about two miles north. Ruins ed an old cabin occupied by the same
ver District produced over a million from World War II structures con- John Nummel of lost gold fame. Mr.
dollars worth of ore, but m i n e r s trast grimly with those of the 1880s. Nummel was at one time a caretaker
weren't as thorough then as they Red Cloud died twice—once in 1890, lor the Red Cloud, but lived away
could be with modern equipment to- again in 1949. The more recent struc- from the property in a cabin on his
day. Judging from Jack's reaction tures, flimsily built, resemble tem- own homestead near Norton's Land-
when he tuned-in his ear phones, porary movie sets, but the substan- ing.
the old-timers overlooked plenty! tial remains of older ones speak of Staggered along an opposite ridge
This metal locator, incidentally, is an erstwhile hope for an everlasting from this ruin are foundations of
different from those we have used on bonanza.
other trips. This one is gauged to houses dug into hillsides, with only
Overlooking this ghost town, once their facades built of stone. Every-
react to minerals 20 feet or more un- named Silent, are the broken walls
derground and which cover an area of what probably represented the where are scattered masses of wea-
of a foot or more in diameter. Models finest dwelling in town. Protuding mains ofsiding—the
thered wind-strewn re-
more sensitive, but less strong, are above a mound of sand, graceful ed La Cantina Plata,that
a wide roof
an
once cover-
old store-
designed to detect smaller items, such posts of a once-elegant brass bed saloon described by Nell Murbarger
as relics and coins, buried in shallow created a mystery. We recognized in Ghosts of the Adobe Walls.
graves. Each model has its own ad- them as an identical facsimile of a
vantages, depending upon what the bedstead we'd seen in a photo taken Silent, established in 1879 and
seeker seeks. many years ago by former DESERT named for Judge Charles Silent, was

January, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 15


when a flood of the Colorado de-
stroyed 30 Red Cloud company
houses and threatened the smelter at
Norton's Landing. Today's only
remnant of this once busy port where
river boats docked to load ore is a
tiny building constructed of willows.
Damming of the Colorado has so
changed the river's channel that Nor-
ton's Landing is now far inland and
hardly worth taking the time to visit.
Our second wrong route led to the
Dives Mine. Instead of turning on-
to Norton's Landing road, since it
had misled us on our first attempt,
we continued along the main road
leading north from the Red Cloud
Mine. Wash-outs rendered it im-
passable within a half-mile or so of
a huge mill hanging precariously
on the edge of a mountain above
rainbow-tinted tailings. The mill ap-
peared to be in reasonably good con-
A-frame dwelling of North Geronimo miner. dition. To explore it, however, would
require some mountain climbing and
later renamed Pacific City. In addi- road building.
several wrong roads in search of the
tion to its function as a trading cen- Clip Mine, we returned there for In this area, I must admit, we came
ter for the mines in the vicinity, it our second night. One of these fiascos upon the first desert land I've ever
also provided a way-station on the carried us to Norton's Landing. This interpreted as "mean." Perhaps it
Yuma-Ehrenberg stage run. A small we didn't regret, although the 14-mile was an array of bleached bones—some
smelter was built in the 1880s, but round trip through Red Cloud Wash with hoofs of burro still intact, others
was unsuccessful and closed after (for 4-wheel drive vehicles only) was fleshless arcs of ribs—barricading the
about three years. Rusting into ob- time-consuming. The scenery was approach to Dives. Or, perhaps it
livion and lying within a circumfer- beautiful, but the old wagon road was a narrow canyon road to the
ence of several miles, equipment of was so faint we kept thinking of Wal- right that trapped us in a cul de sac
various ages and models rattles in ter Nelson, the Red Cloud Mine's of sunless, yawning lairs. Whatever
the desert wind, a requiem to times last caretaker whose lifeless body was it was, this portion of desert is not
that will never live again. found in this wash beside his sand- for me. I love long, naked vistas, un-
bogged car in 1955. compromising light and shadow,
It wasn't our intention to camp at subtle colors and unconventional
the Red Cloud, but after following An earlier tragedy occured in 1884 flora. To me, desert terrain is un-
complicated and honest. There's
Trent scouts ahead on his Burrito to look for old road. nothing devious about life that stands
forth to be counted, alone, unclutter-
ed, protected only by an ability to
adapt and a determination to survive.
And that's why this section of des-
ert struck me as "mean." There were
no long vistas. It was treacherous,
dark and confining. And I'm sure a
vicious wild cat lurked in each black
lair. We backed out of the deadend
canyon as fast as we could and re-
turned to Red Cloud Mine to camp.
At dawn we again studied our
maps. It was just possible that the
original turnoff to the Clip Mine
road had washed away and we could
pick it up at another point. Trent
scooted ahead on his Burrito—a small
but sturdy trail bike with an extra-
wide rear tire for negotiating sand—
and soon found where an old road
turned from the main one and drop-
ped into a deep, jagged wash. We
waited while he crossed the wash, re-
appeared on the opposite side and
then disappeared behind a bluff.
Soon he came charging up the main
road toward us. He'd found where

16 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


Clip Wash left — Revelation Mine that wasn't the only thing that mys-
right. tified us. Before precipitating our
It was the Revelation Mine we mission, we'd checked with Arizona's
sought, but we hadn't expected to Department of Mineral Resources at
find a sign pointing the way. The Phoenix and learned that the Revela-
direction to the "broken arch" given tion claim was held by a gentleman
by Mr. Jackson in his letter placed from Yuma named H. L. Duty, but
it in the vicinity of the Clip Mine to the department's knowledge, had
and directly above the Revelation never produced nor was it currently
Mine. We were getting close, but this being worked.
wasn't a "broken" arch, so we turned Nevertheless, signposts of f a i r l y
right and, to our surprise, came upon recent vintage indicated some sort of
another sign. This one looked fairly visitation and shallow diggings on
new and read, Revelation Mine. No the adjacent hill piqued our curiosity.
Trespassing. The old mining map we carried
showed a claim called the Mendevil
Well, we hadn't come all this way adjoining the Revelation. We were
for nothing, so we trespassed along not certain as to which claim the re-
the road, ignoring an offshoot to the cent diggings belonged and, look as
left where we could see distant ruins we might, we couldn't see anything
of the Clip Mine, and continued on resembling a broken arch to identify
Shallow diggings at Mendevil looked until we arrived at the foot of a steep, the latter.
recent. serpentined incline. It might have
been possible to climb this by auto, After much huffing and puffing
the old Clip Mine road crossed the but the risk was great. and resting, it occured to us that the
Norton's Landing road in Red Cloud "I'm game for a hike if you are," broken arch might be tucked behind
Wash—only 7/10 of a mile from the Jack challenged. So we filled a can- a mountain crag and invisible from
Dives fork on the main road. teen from our water jug and set forth our point of view. The only solution
in the noonday sun. At the moun- was to march on! Going downhill
This illusive junction is in an area into the ravine was easy, but the sun
of particularly deep sand. After a tain's crest we stopped to rest and
commiserate upon the view. Not didn't grow any cooler and by the
short distance the road firms up, time we'd reached the crest of the
however, but instead of sand, it's then that it wasn't thrilling, but another
incline fully as lofty as the one we'd next mountain our only goal was to
buried under boulders. Here, again, crawl into a shady cave. Had a wild
a 4-wheel drive vehicle is necessary, just climbed lay across a narrow ra-
vine and the trail led straight up its cat lurked there, I'd have said, simply,
in addition to an experienced driver "Move over."
and a determined wife! Jack said perpendicular side. Two hills were
later he'd never have undertaken it more than we'd bargained for, but
so were two arches! There, towering Trent broke out the canteen and
without an accompanying car if we we sprawled in the mouth of the cave
hadn't had Trent's Burrito for sup- directly before us, was another arch-
just as round and perfectly formed as shelter until we'd built up enough
plementary transportation. steam to face the up and down trail
the one we'd passed at the Clip Wash
Along this route we passed several junction. back to our car. Jack examined
old mines. The South Geronimo, shallow trenches that looked newly
what there is of it, sits on a plateau "Oh boy," I muttered, "just wait dug, but there were no other signs
out of sight above the Norton's Land- 'til we tell this to Uncle Erie!" But that activity had transpired since the
ing junction and is difficult to reach,
but the North Geronimo is alongside Jack finds rare old beer bottle at Clip Mine
the road. Its main attraction is an
A-frame building with a roof that
slants to the ground and a peaked
ceiling barely high enough to accom-
modate a man. This sort of architec-
ture was contrived not for fashion,
but to conserve wood by the elimina-
tion of side walls. A trestle-table in-
side provided both work ajld eating
space and paths cleared among des-
ert-varnished stones outside indicated
m.
a tidy housekeeper with time to
spare.
Two miles further, after squeezing
through narrow passes, negotiating
washed-out roads and removing a
number of boulders from the road,
we climbed a hill. There, across a
narrow valley and atop an opposite
mountain, loomed a very respectable
fully rounded arch. Also, tucked into
a stone cairn at a junction with an-
other trail was a wooden slat upon
which had been written in pencil,

January, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 17


its base on the side where our car was
parked, nor even from the peak of
the first incline which sheltered it.
Whether the formation was due to
erosion or the result of early pros-
pecting we couldn't ascertain from a
distance. The Clip and other mines
in the district were worked for lead-
silver at a time when this metal was
more coveted than gold, so Mr. Jack-
son's suggestion that gold had been
overlooked in favor of silver could
be true, but whether or not this for-
mation once formed an arch is ques-
tionable. When bridged, if ever it
was, I believe it would have more
closely resembled a needle's eye.
It is understandable that Mr. Jack-
son would have used this distinctive
formation to identify the Revelation
Mine. But that Mr. Fish of the Lost
Arch Mine legend would have iden-
tified his golden outcropping with
a landmark so unobtrusive and dubi-
ous an arch when a perfectly good
one visible from great distances tow-
ered beside it, is unlikely. He might
have confided to his partner that
the gold lay in the vent of a needle's
eye, but then the legend would con-
cern a lost needle instead of a lost
arch.
I'm afraid we're going to have to
pass on this one. Like its California
neighbors, Arizona's Trigo Moun-
tains are overly endowed with arches.
As far as we Peppers are concerned,
*K * > the Lost Arch stays lost in the Turtles!
///
Trent «??d /acft climb hill below V-
slit of Revelation Mine. Right: Only
from this perspective can both the
arch and slit be seen.

Mendevil claim was surveyed for


patent in 1887—if, indeed, this were
the Mendevil. It was at this stage of
speculation that "Revelation" struck
us.
"Look!" Jack pointed to the top
of a mountain wedged into a gully
directly south of the first hill we'd
climbed. At its base were shallow
diggings similar to ones we'd just
examined, but at its peak was a pro-
minent split. A jumble of rocks
spilled down its face from the V-
shaped crevice.
As we climbed the winding road,
it gradually faded behind the moun-
tain we ascended. This, we were
confident, was Mr. Jackson's broken
arch and the negligible diggings be-
low it, the Revelation Mine.' The
more extensive trenches on the sec-
ond mountain belonged to the Men-
devil.
The split was not apparent from
18 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965
LEE'S
LOST
LODE
by
RETTA E. EWERS

Cottonwood Springs

O O M E W H E R E NEAR the Old recorded, silver was at the height of search of another. Soon he returned
Woman Springs, perhaps midway be- production and considered as valu- to Barstow to report a fabulous new
tween Yucca and Victorville, a lost able as gold. It was usually referred vein, carrying samples to prove it.
mine awaits a lucky wanderer. And to as "white metal." He'd build his family a house with
lucky he'll have to be, for legitimate door knobs and steps of solid silver,
records are vague. Another event in Lee's life indica- he boasted!
ted a preoccupation with silver. It
Musty archives in the San Bernar- was he who discovered the famous For this venture, he assumed a
dino Court House give the following silver deposit of Red Mountain two partner—a crippled assayer from Los
waybill: The White Metal Mine, lo- miles north of Barstow and known Angeles who was bound to a wheel
cated by G. Lee 5 miles N. of the as the Pencil Lead Mine. Subsequent- chair. Lee, who refused to divulge
Lone Star Mine. Located N.E. of ly, these claims were appropriated by his mine's location to anyone else,
Bear Valley, (Big Bear) April 5, 1879. the same Robert W. Waterman who tried to persuade Stewart to visit it,
San Bernardino County, California. succeeded Washington Bartlett as but the exertion seemed beyond the
governor ol California after the lat- invalid's capabilities and Stewart re-
Lost mine tale-spinners have added ter's death in 1887. fused. He did, however, insist that
embellishments. Some refer to Lee's Lee take a friend along on his behalf.
Lost Lode as one of gold, but I chal- Dispossessed of the Pencil Lead In this event lies our only workable
lenge this. At the time his claim was Mine, Lee struck across the desert in clue.
The two men, traveling in a light
buckboard, reached Old Woman
Springs in the heat of day. It was
mid-summer, so they remained there
to water their animals and rest in
the shade until shadows began to
lengthen.
At 3:00 P.M. they started out again
and traveled slowly for nearly three
hours. At that time Lee called a halt
and said they'd stop for the night.
While his companion was occupied
with setting up camp, Lee disappear-
ed. At 9:00 P.M. he returned with a
bag of ore samples. These he refused
to display, however. Stewart might
trust his friend, but Lee didn't!
On another trip into this region
Lee again disappeared — for good.
Lee had lived with a man named Hoffman, supplied with a plenti- man queried Lee about his silver de-
Brown on the banks of the Mohave ful quantity of whiskey, proceeded to posit. Lee was loxy and, remaining
River. One morning, pack on back, offer Lee a drink. And then another. sober enough to retain his caution,
Lee announced that he was going to As they polished off the bottle, Hoff- refused to divulge the location of his
make a trip to his mine. Brown Lee recognized him as an old desert mine.
watched him depart and then return- rat named Hans Hoffman who was
reputed to be a henchman of Water- At this, Hoffman grew abusive. In
ed to his work. These trips were a frenzy he struck Lee over the head
legion. Brown knew Lee'd return man's. Lee immediately became sus-
picious. It occured to him that with a heavy rock, killing him in-
when he was ready. stantly. Frightened by what he'd
Waterman and his partner, Bodie,
On this trip, Lee reached Old Wo- had conspired to have Hoffman tail done, Hoffman sobered enough to dig
man Springs and found a man await- him to the location of his new dis- a shallow grave for Lee's body. He
ing him. The man was no stranger, covery so they could take it over dur- then built a fire over the spot to
cil Lead Mine. ing his absence, as they had his Pen- erase signs of fresh digging.
While Hoffman was so engaged,
Lava beds north-east of Old Woman Springs carry signs of prehistoric Indian two men approached on horseback.
visits, but few of mining activity. Hoffman appeared so nervous and
evasive that the men became suspi-
cious and demanded to know what
he was hiding. Alter contributing a
fresh supply of whiskey to the cause,
they wormed the murder secret from
him—along with an explosive fact.
They learned that Hoffman had been
given $500 to either uncover Lee's
secret mine or kill him trying. And
they learned from Hoffman's boast-
ing that the donor of the bribe was
no other than Robert Waterman!
After Hoffman showed the men
where he'd buried the body, he stag-
gered to his blanket and fell asleep.
The men, meanwhile, leaped to their
horses and raced to San Bernardino
to report the murder to Sheriff John
Buckhart. They also told others, for
the news traveled to Barstow from
whence Waterman sent forth a group
of gunmen to Old Woman Springs,
hoping to intercept the posse from
San Bernardino in time to effect Hoff-
man's escape. The Sheriff got there
first, however, and Hoffman was
arrested and taken to the San Bernar-
dino jail.
Waterman's stake in the trial was
great. He hired the best lawyer avail-
able to represent Hoffman and thus
began one of the toughest and longest
court battles on record in San Ber-
nardino County. It lasted from 1880
20 / Desert Mcraazine / Tanuarv. 1PRS
through 1881. Five witnesses for the After all this Waterman was elect- As far as other clues are concerned,
defense swore that the body was that ed Lieutenant-Governor of the state, it takes a lot of imagination to make
of an Indian squaw who had been so undoubtedly there were ramifica- anything of them. Old mining maps
kicked to death by a horse, but Lee's tions which justified his reported in my possession do not show a loca-
dentist swore that the teeth of the questionable ethics. Also, there are tion by the name of Lone Star Mine,
dead person were those of the mur- some indications that Lee might have as was recorded in relation to Lee's
dered man who, as his patient, de- abandoned his Pencil Lead Mine and White Metal Mine. Most published
manded that his cavities be filled later had a change of heart. In the material referring to this lost lode
with silver from his own holdings. meantime, Lee's lost lode remained gives serious consideration to an area
Another convincing factor lay in Lee's lost. about 15 miles east of the Spring
great height—over six feet, whereas where a graded road to Barstow
most Indian squaws of this region There is one bold clue overlooked travels closely east and south of a
were short and squat. At the end of by those who have written about this small range ol hills and access into
the first trial, the jury voted 11 for lost mine. Old Woman Springs is them is easy.
conviction, one for acquittal. the only recognizable launching spot
from which to conduct a search. How- Other lost mine detectives start
A second trial ensued with the same ever, today's Old Woman Springs, with already proven mines in a given
results. Citizens swore that Water- located on private property, is about area and work out from them. About
man employed a paid juryman on one mile east of the original Old 15 miles east of the Springs is the
the panel to cause a hung jury. A Woman Springs. Col. Henry Washing- Blue Ribbon Silver Mine, but an
recess was called. While awaiting the ton named the original oasis Old even hotter spot might be found
Court's decision for a third trial, Woman Springs in 1855 when he was along an existing trail lying west and
Waterman's lawyers succeeded in ob- running a base line survey in the south of Cottonwood Springs and
taining Hoffman's release on f 15,000 district. Much later this oasis was leading io the old Akron-Silver Reef
bail. He immediately disappeared renamed Cottonwood Spring, the Mines. The Santa Fe and Lester
and was never heard from again. name it bears today. Al Swarthout, Gold mines were also located in this
a rancher, developed water to the general area, so the dubious possi-
Waterman's troubles were not over bility that Lee's lost lode was gold
yet. Lee's heirs sued him and won east of the original oasis by drilling
into rock. He then appropriated the instead of silver must not be com-
a judgment for 8300,000. Water- pletely discounted.
man's own brother, to whom he had name of the old oasis for his new lo-
sold one-third interest in the Pencil cation. Thus, in figuring the time Lucerne Valley's desert community
Lead Mine, without securing it in element entailed in Lee's three-hour encompasses some exciting terrain for
writing, also sued him, as Water- buckboard ride to the spot where he rock collectors as well as for lost mine
man refused to acknowledge the established a camp with Stewart's seekers. It may be the former, collect-
transaction. In the process of trial, friend, the route should be judged ing vercle antique, agate and jasper,
the brother died, but his heirs con- from the present Cottonwood Springs, who will accidentally wrest a secret
tinued the suit and eventually col- rather than from the present Old Wo- from the land that neither whiskey
lected their third interest. man Springs. nor man would wrest from Lee. / / /

Mountains fringing Lucerne Valley ?nay well hold Lee's lost lode
It's Never Drab in Moab

ROYCEROLLINS
-:«.*.

H, JSTORICALLY, MOAB, Utah


was a place people went through to
What the miner had discovered was
true—an overwhelming bonanza of
vaceous world of suspended arcs, we
followed wildcat, coyote, rabbit, fox
get somewhere else. Major Powell Beauty. Thereafter began a long siege and porcupine tracks through the
passed by on his trek down the Colo- to persuade the National Parks Ser- snow, corrupting its primeval purity
rado River and a tew trappers camp- vice to establish Arches National with our clumsy boots. But it was
ed on its bank before Moab became Monument. fun. And terribly beautiful. Crystal
a town. Even early Indians stopped prisms sparkled on twigs. Here and
only long enough to trap game and People still pass through Moab to there green juniper pointed above
peck a record of visits in a canyon get somewhere else. But as they pass snowy billows. Pink sand splashed
wall. through today, they linger. And then abstract patterns around arches jet-
they return to linger some more. For tisoned three-stories high.
In 1855 Mormon colonists estab- this vivid Mormon community on
lished the townsite, but it was still U. S. Highway 160 is in the heart of We ran and jumped and rolled in
more popularly "worked out of" than the most exciting scenic country in the snow. We were alone in this en-
"in" by cattlemen who gave homey the world and only with repeated and chanted land—just my husband, our
names like Jug Handle and School extended visits can a tourist ever son and me. No matter what any-
Mann's Pants to the superbly eroded hope to absorb it all. one says, wintertime is the best time
sandstone monuments on the fringe
in Arches National Monument. Head-
of town.
Our first exploration of A r c h e s quarters are open all year to give you
In 1922 a miner named Alexander National Monument occured in the a quick lesson in the park's curious
Ringhoffer looked hard at these fan- wintertime. Perhaps because it was geology and trails to interesting
tastic formations and dropped his our first; or perhaps because foamy points are accessible even under a
pick. Sensitive enough to recognize pulls of white snow contrasted sur- light blanket of snow.
them as a greater attraction than a prisingly with pink sand and blue
cowboy's "nothin' but a lot of holes skies, Southeastern Utah has never Dress warmly, carry lots of film and
in rocks," he prevailed upon Dr. J. since appeared more beautiful. At be sure to have enough gas in your
W. Williams and Moab newsman an elevation of 4000 feet, Moab's car. Chances are you'll have both
"Bish" Taylor to pack into the coun- snowfalls seldom exceed four inches, the day and the park to yourself.
try and confirm his ecstatic reports. or linger more than a day. In a cur- //
22 / Desert Maqazine / December. 19R4
ir J
BY JACK PEPPER
publisher, desert magazine

A WE FLEW over the Colorado


Delta headed for Mulege, Erie Stan-
ley Gardner reviewed his expeditions
and discoveries made in Baja Califor-
nia during the past years. Since all
of us had been on at least one of the
previous trips, the briefing was prin- gist who spends his spare time explor- Conception Bay where we found ex-
cipally for Dr. Carlos Margain, chief ing Baja, and Joseph Gutierrez, Mexi- ceptionally old skeletons and arti-
anthropologist and archeologist from cali businessman and sportsman. facts. It was these discoveries that
the Mexican Institute of Archeology. resulted in the present trip.
With Dr. Margain's portfolio filled
Dr. Margain's presence was the di- with petroglyph and pictograph in- Our briefing was interrupted when
rect result of a request by Gardner to formation from Gardner's files and we landed at Bahia de Los Angeles,
the Mexican government for a trained from DESERT'S, we turned to the a popular fishing resort, to feast on
scientist to visit the Mulege area to immediate object of this trip. On a lobster and frijoles prepared by
evaluate material we all felt might previous expedition, we explored the Senora Antero Diaz. An hour later
prove Baja was once inhabited by caves of Coyote and Conception bays we arived at Mulege and the modern
the earliest man on the American and the larger peninsula which forms and comfortable Club Aero de
continent. This was the first offi- Mulege.
cially conducted survey of Baja's
caves by a Mexican scientist. That evening business was ignored
while we became acquainted with
Although best known as the creator Dr. Margain. He has spent 26 years
of Perry Mason, mystery-writer Gard- in the archeological field, speaks five
ner, or "Uncle Erie" as he is called languages, and is a recognized author-
by his friends, has written five books ity on the cultures of Meso America,
on Baja resulting from numerous trips having participated in the excavations
into the fascinating country. of such sites as Bonampak, Monte Al-
Within hours after Gardner re- ban and Teotihuacan. But he is also
ceived word Dr. Margain could ac- an archeologist with a terrific sense
company an expedition, he had char- of humor and from the start was sym-
tered a plane and rounded up his patico with the others of our group.
"Baja crew." Because Choral and I As he described both humorous and
had been on previous trips and writ- tragic events which had happened to
ten a series of articles (see DESERT, him during his many years of explor-
May through September, 1964) on ation, I could see Dr. Margain was
Baja, we were also invited. As on more than a trained scientist. Using
all Gardner's Baja trips by air, the his academic knowledge and well-
chartered plane was piloted by vet- disciplined mind, he seeks empathy
eran aviator and owner of the Baja with the people of pre-historic civil-
Air Service, Francisco Munoz. Others izations in order to obtain a greater
in the group included Sam Hicks, understanding of their culture.
Gardner's "right hand" and ranch At midnight we retired, but at
manager; J. W. Black, manufacturer dawn we were bouncing south by
of the Pakjak and Burrito, two-wheel car toward Coyote Bay. Although it
vehicles that traverse the roughest of is only a distance of 20 miles, it takes
country; Ricardo Castillo, Tijuana Dr. Margain examines ancient two hours to drive the serpentine
businessman and amateur archeolo- glyphs on fallen rock. route through spectacular desert
24 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965
flora and along cliffs rising above
sparkling Gulf of California.
Coyote Bay itself can best be de-
scribed as a Shangri La. Its calm,
clear water is filled with fish and
the white coral beach curves for sev-
eral miles, ending on each side with
spectacular mountain formations. The
land is scattered with palm, palo
bianco and elephant trees. Water,
a scarce item in Baja, we acquired
from a well on the ranch of Manuelo,
a gracious host and amigo who cooked
two large fish he had caught for our
visit.
Surrounding the area are rugged
mountains honeycombed with caves.
It was in one of these caves, on our
previous expedition, that Ricardo
found arrowheads, a wooden spear
and the bones of a pre-historic man.
These and other collections were
given to Dr. Margain for future analy-
sis. Dr. Carlos Margain, left, and Erie Stanley Gardner examine collection of
At the entrance to Conception Bay, arrowheads and spears which may date back to the long-headed Pericues.
we stopped to show Dr. Margain a
number of petroglyphs on boulders
He was immediately impressed with
the area, pointing out that kitchen
middens and other physical evidence
indicated rich archeological discov-
eries.
His enthusiasm was too much for
me. Not waiting for Manuel's roast-
ed fish, I hiked up one of the steep
mountains we had decided to explore.
Pausing on a cliff high above the
bay, I felt lost in time and space-
as though I were under an hypnotic
spell. If suddenly a prehistoric man
had appeared, I would not have been
surprised. Time, for a m o m e n t ,
ceased to exist and I was in a world
40,000 years ago.
The first cave I explored was the
(Continued on Page 36)

/. W. Black shovels stones out of mysterious cave believed to have been


burial place for pre-historic inhabitants of Conception Bay.

s •• <

•#™T

Believed to have been a site for pre-historic hunters and fishermen, Conception Bay today is still a fisherman's para-
dise. Richardo Castillo digs in one of dozens of kitchen middens on the bay. They are refuse heaps marking the site
of primitive habitation.
SERI COUNTRY TODAY
I F YOU L O ^ | could be par basic equipment: a Volkswagen
Sonora side of triH climbers who climb bee Kombi outfitted as a camper and
a 100-mile blank TB tain is there, py ex- equipped with a 95 HP Corvair en-
tad to Kino Bay is ^ H plorer and car ^ when we gine. This adaptation was accom-
from previous trips i"V have the cha; this seemed a plished using a standard Volkswagen
mosillo and Kino Bay aB and a good place transaxle joined to the engine by a
versation with the Indians! ^ ^ g Transporter VolksVair Adaptor Kit. Flotation for
was a road from Puerto LnH Borvair conversion. soft ground and handling for general
the Seri Indian village ° f ^ B W Michelson and I decided road travel had been improved by fit-
boque, but no map that we c B H the trip when Ralph men- ting oversized tires to wide base offset
find gave any indication of its exnB R e had a commission from a rims. An extra 5-gallon gas tank had
ence. ^ wkny museum to make an eth- been installed in the engine com-
I guess that off-the-road type people & collection from Seris. Our partment and a couple of Jeep cans

«*,#.,

T
1%

26 / Desert Maaavina / Irrniinrv 1QRS


by TED TREVOR

photos by
Ralph Michelsen
gave us 25 gallon capacity, or about
450 miles of range between gas sta-
tions.
After a fast trip from Costa Mesa,
California to the Mexican border,
we chose Mexican Route 2 which
runs from Tijuana through San Luis
Sonora and is a high speed paved
highway all the way from Tecate to
Pitiquito. A comfortable drive of 400
miles from our starting point put us
in Sonoita on the Arizona-Sonora
border where we stopped to get car
and tourist permits. The immigra-
tion station here is open 24 hours
daily.
Caborca is the last place to stock
up on beer, ice, and other staples if
you are headed down the back road
to Desemboque. It was here that The only place in the world where the giant cacti, Cardon and Saguaro,
Ralph changed our U. S. money to grow side by side.
Mexican money. It was interesting to Our map shows the route we took. rection. It's no place to go solo with-
note that Mexican people doing busi- After turning left at Bamuri, the road out desert survival knowledge and
ness in the bank appeared affronted continues all the way to Desemboque. equipment. A reasonable time for
by my dress (overalls). All these It is possible to check your position the 100 miles from Pitiquito to Des-
people were well dressed and banking by the mileage gaps between the emboque is about 5 hours non-stop.
was obviously a part of their social ranches. Nearly all these ranches are
life. Work clothes were not looked Much mystery surrounds the his-
permanently occupied, and if you tory and culture of the Seri Indians.
upon as acceptable garb at the bank. say the name of the ranch where you A nomadic, volatile people errone-
From Caborca we continued on think you are to the friendly vaquero, ously reputed to be cannibals, at war
Route 2 about 10 miles to Pitiquito he will either nod affirmatively or with the local Mexican ranchers for
where we topped off the gas tanks indicate the correct direction. Al- decades and finally with the Mexican
and obtained road information at the though all the ranches have horses government, these people fled from
Pemex service station. This is the for transportation, we did not see a the mainland to Tiburon Island to
last place to get gas until you return single car on the road nor at the avoid annihilation. In recent years
from Desemboque, a round trip of ranches between Pitiquito and Desem- differences with the Mexicans have
about 230 miles. Turn right at the boque. ceased and the Seris have returned to
gas station and wend your way The desert in every direction is a the mainland to reside at Desembo-
through town as directed. Our illus- forest of giant cactus and desert trees. que, a peaceful bay north of Tiburon
trated map shows the way to Desem- Deer, javelina, coyote, fox, wildcat, Island. They still resist Mexican
boque. From Pitiquito there is a and antelope jack rabbit are numer- assimiliation and try to carry on their
good graded dirt road to Puerto ous. This is the only place in the old culture and tradition, but this, we
Libertad and it is possible to go to world where the two giant cacti, fear, is a losing battle. Ralph noted
Libertad first and then to Desem- Saguaro and Cardon, overlap. Roads that on previous trips most of the
boque, but this could prove confus- other than those on our map are males and male children had long
ing on the first trip. The Bamuri practically non-existent, but the 4- hair and wore trapos (vestigial loin
through La Cienega route is rela- wheeler will find hundreds of square cloths) over their pants. Today many
tively worry-free and easier to follow. miles of virgin territory in every di- of the young men have short hair

January, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 27


and wear trousers and sport shirts The Mexican fear of the Seri is only
sans trapos. equalled by the Seri fear of the Mexi-
In Desemboque, before our vehicle can. Many wild and unsubstantiated
rolled to a stop, it was surrounded by stories are told of these isolated
long-haired Seri Indians. These people, but whatever the Seri reputa-
people are primitive, but they have tion, it would certainly be difficult
learned that those Gringos who do to find a more friendly or good na-
manage to penetrate their territory tured people anywhere.
are good customers for their excellent It is a good policy to camp a half
baskets and shell beads. They are mile or more from the village. There
friendly, dirty, and honest. Children is a covered well near the beach west
might pick away at your gear out of Desemboque. A few important
of curiosity, but thievery is very un- "don'ts" are: Don't show guns or
likely, even of desirable things left liquor around the Indians as these
exposed. We lost nothing. Colorful are prohibited by Mexican law. Don't
clothing and food are much in de- go into Desemboque after dark.
mand and make good trade items. A Those friendly - looking, rib - caged
long sleeved red shirt held up in mutts you see wandering all over
front of the crowd was a sure way town by day become a pack of vici-
to get mobbed by anxious traders. ous hunters as soon as the sun goes
Short sleeved shirts and honest work down. Even the Indians stay indoors.
clothes are virtually worthless for And finally, don't forget to bring a
trade, as color is a status symbol out- present for Roberto, the Indian po-
weighing usefulness. lice department. (Easily spotted by
A good Seri plate-shaped basket his complete and clean uniform.)
18" in diameter is worth about $5 ways been fiercely independent and
cash or trade; large bowl-shaped bas- even now remain relatively pure in If you're a fisherman, large native
kets run up to $50 American money. blood, with probably less than a doz- dories are available. The motors are
If you wish to buy, carry small Mexi- en individuals of mixed blood. Their generally unreliable so bring your
can bills because they are too poor extreme devotion to independence own. Eminently practical—yet pro-
to make change. crastinators by nature—the Seris do
and a strong liking for other people's not bother to caulk their boats. Bail-
The Seri is a culturally distinct horse meat led to the M e x i c a n ing tomorrow is easier than caulking
tribe in that all the neighboring tribes wars which reduced their population today!
practice some form of agriculture. to 280-odd members from a peak of
The Seri Indians have always been about 2000. Even now the people of The village during daylight hours
and still are hunters and gatherers. Hermosillo will warn you that it is is a beehive of activity. Women make
They grow nothing. They have al- unsafe to venture into Seri country. baskets and prepare food in the open

Bo'otse with red, white and blue decor Baskets made from elephant tree fibre.
:m

28 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


and a pot of dams cooks in front of
every hut.
The kids play a volley ball-soccer
combination in a circle. The object
seems to be to keep the ball moving
and fool the next to get it and the
whole thing compares favorably with
a Harlem Globetrotters basketball
game, for skill and comedy. These
little kids are probably the dirtiest
and happiest in the world. There is
obviously no parental attempt to
wash faces or wipe noses.
To return north, we turned left at
Los Coyotes Ranch, nine miles north
of Desemboque. From here to Puerto
Libertad you will swear that you are
lost all the way. The first short
stretch is deceiving because it is fair-
ly smooth sand, after which all hell
breaks loose. A side road veering left
a few miles past Los Coyotes Ranch
ends up in Puerto Libertad also, and
is generally used in wet weather.
Either road will get you there. It is
30 miles further to Pitiquito by this
road to Puerto Libertad, but well Jose Louis is painted by his wife.
worth the trip unless the season is
hot. The VolksVair really proved its was laced with dips and washes. The and were relieved to find ourselves in
worth when the going got rough. We extra power from the Corvair engine Puerto Libertad. From there we flat-
had two very rare pieces of pottery tracked over well-graded roads to
for the museum collection and were gave us good acceleration on the
short relatively smooth areas of the Pitiquito and civilization with pots
quite naturally concerned over their and other artifacts intact. Our ve-
safe arrival. Over-sized tires plus the road, reducing our overall travel time
hicle had proven its worth and we
long, smooth Volkswagen suspension considerably.
had fulfilled our ambitions as carto-
carried us in comfort, considering After several hours in nowhere, we graphers—which we hope will be a
the condition of the roadbed which finally sighted the Gulf of California help to other travelers. ///

These women are digging clams—a staple of the Seri diet.

vr i
Left: Pump at Grand Central mine
came around the Horn from England,
and up the Gulf of California to
Yuma, then shipped by freight wagon
to Tombstone. Pumphouse burned
down prior to this photo taken in
1900. Pump originally installed in
1881. Below: Tombstone Court House
built in 1882.

A LEGEND LIVES
by Edna Landin
1 OMBSTONE, ARIZONA, known an example of what can be done with- been exploring the northern section
as "The Town Too Tough To Die," out Federal aid. of the Arizona Territory, accom-
earned that slogan because it has panied some recruited Indian scouts
survived the reverses which made No city in the world causes more
to Camp Huachuca, hoping to be
ghost towns of so many of America's raising of eyebrows when mentioned
more successful in that area. He
mining communities. When Presi- than Tombstone. Many p e o p l e
arrived in April, 1877. Using the
dent John F. Kennedy introduced doubt that such a town actually
camp as a base, Schieffelin scoured
his Depressed Area Bill an editorial exists. Why was it given such a grim
the area, but without success. His
in an Arizona daily stated, "Why not name? Naturally, there is an explana-
futile expeditions amused the garri-
help Tombstone? It's been depressed tion. Located in Apache Indian
son. "The most you'll find is your
since 1890!" country, its early pioneers were in
tombstone," they jested. Undaunted,
constant danger of Indian attack. T o
he worked his way to the north end
offer them protection, Carnp Hua-
In the old pioneer spirit, how- of Mule Mountains, only 12 miles
chuca was established in 1877 about
ever, old-timers who had remained, from the Apache stronghold. There
18 miles southwest of the Tombstone
plus newcomers who represent the his faith paid off. He discovered an
site.
largest percentage of its present 1500 outcropping of rock rich with silver.
population, struggled to keep it alive. Shortly thereafter a prospector by Remembering the joshing of the sol-
Now, justly and with pride, it sets the name of Ed. Schieffelin, who had diers, he gave the name "Tombstone"

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30 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


to his discovery when he filed his efforts proved successful and in Sep-
claim on September 3, 1877.
That was the beginning of Tomb-
tember, 1962, the City was dedicated
as a Registered National Historic
Landmark by the National Park Ser-
the going's great!
stone. With subsequent discoveries
of rich silver ore, it emerged as one
of the largest cities of the early West.
vice. (This does not involve Federal
aid.) - WARN HUBS
In January, 1881, Cochise County was
But Tombstone does not live in ON YOUR
created and named after the Apache 4-WHEEL DRIVE
the past alone. Located on U. S.
Indian chief who made peace with
Highway 80, it attracts motorists who These famous hubs save gas, gears, tires, engine,
the whiteman. Tombstone, with a improve performance, reduce maintenance costs,
wish to relive, in an authentic natur- increase vehicle life by disengaging the front drive
population of 15,000, was designated in 2-w.d.—automatically, or with manual controls.
al setting, a bit of the old West. But To get the most from your i-w.d. under all condi-
county seat. tions, install Warn Hubs. That's what the majority
most important, Western history here of 4-w.d. owners do. Write, or see your dealer.
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miles of cast-iron-pipe was laid to citizens justly proud of their "Town 9050-DM Empire Way g.,
the Huachuca Mountains. This, to- Too Tough To Die." ///
Seattle, Wash. 08118
day, is still the town's main water
source. Ironically, water later drown-
ed Tombstone's hopes for further
growth. Millions of dollars of ore
had been removed when in 1886, at
NOW! THE NEW GOLD-MASTER MODEL S63
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than 400 and it almost reached ghost
town status. Then along came World
War II and a short period of activity.
In 1945, Tombstone was snatched
from the "Death List" by Father Aull,
a retired priest who opened a clinic
for the treatment of respiratory ail-
ments. Many benefitted and the town
was having growing pains when, in
1948, Father Aull died and the clinic
closed. Some of the health-seekers
remained, however, to profit from
Tombstone's healthful climate.
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January, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 31


Homage to the Tufa

yieatly ntUattcUMfood fatmattaa it explained once and fan


by Albert Ervin Thompson
JTlRST, ABOUT Nevada: I dis- per and in endless highways stretching our feet, they presented a mental
covered it, like many other people, from horizon to horizon. It is a glimpse of a time long before Colum-
while crossing it to get somewhere changing land, as revealed by deserted bus, even long before ancestors of the
else. Now, it's hard for me to leave strands of vanished lakes contouring Paiutes lound this magic shore.
it. In my vacations there, I've never the mountain ridges, and gully-tex-
won a dollar, nor lost a dime, but I tured badlands that remind the From the days of the mountain
have gained profound enjoyment. thoughtful of a basin country long men and '49ers, travelers and settlers
in the deserts of eastern California
The wild antelopes of the great past. and western Nevada have noticed
Sheldon Refuge, the gem fields of At Fernley, not far from Reno, I with amazement and wonder vast de-
Virgin Valley, the dripstone wonders once met a friendly Paiute who said, posits of porous, intricately textured
of Lehman Cave, the exquisite land proudly, "Have you been to Pyramid limestone disposed in heads, hum-
sculpture of Cathedral Gorge, and Lake? I'm part owner of it. The mocks, and pillars, and in great sheets,
the fossil shore features of Walker lake and all the land around it be- ledges and multiple masses. Many of
Lake are among the spectacular, but longs to my tribe. There are lots of the ledges resemble coral reefs,
the call of Nevada does not emanate big trout there. You should see it." though no actual coral is present, and
from the spectacular alone. While My wife and I were at the moment are disposed horizontally along the
driving across the state, you'll dis- en route to Pyramid; not to fish, but contours of mountains between what
cover sublime features whose vast- to share in the charm and mystery of seems to be sandy beaches and wave-
ness, simplicity and mystery can con- the land. On film we caught the cut terraces and cliffs. Some of the
vey to your soul unutterable peace dynamic flash of feathery cirrus limestone masses actually stand in
and serenity. The charm of raw clouds, whipped by an u p d r a f t the water at Pyramid Lake, but
Nevada is in expansive valleys with bouncing above the Sierra Nevada. others are miles away and hundreds
gray- green sage and shining playas; Back to earth, near the shore, we saw of feet above water or any sign of
in uplifted block mountains of tilted multidomed mammillary masses of it, except, perhaps, a distant playa
strata, beds of pink rhyolite tuff and giant tufas and, on higher terraces, lake or dry salt bed.
frozen flows of black basalt; in broad ragged reefs of upward-flaring, fili-
mountain passes that cut through greed, scalloped limestone plates. En- In the last century, before 1885, a
pigmy woodlands of pinyon and juni- compassing the stone cauliflowers at great geologist of the United States
Geological Survey, I. C. Russell,
studied these limey deposits, classi-
fied their various forms and deduced
their origin. His work was so thor-
ough that it has stood unchallenged to
the present. He found that a great
lake of 8422 square miles, twice or
more, had occupied the confluent
basins east and north of Reno. The
deserted strand marks of the lake
called Lahontan extend in tortuous
contours from Honey Lake, Califor-
nia, to Hawthorne, Nevada, and
northward to the Oregon border.
Russell found that Lake Lahontan
had supported vast colonies of simple,
primitive water plants called blue-
green algae which adhered to every
solid support beneath the water and,
over many centuries, deposited the
algal limestone or calcareous tufa
often referred to as travertine. Other
Diagra?n of algal zuater biscuits from Carson Sink, Nevada. The colony scientists later confirmed and added
began as a green, slimy coating on a small pebble that rested on the silty to this study. They found that the
bottom of ancient Lake Lahontan. The algae deposited a coating of calcium chemical-biological cycle that made
carbonate on the pebble, thus expanding the foundation, making room for the algal tufas is still at work in Pyra-
more algae. So the algal colony and the limestone support continued to grow mid and Walker Lake and other
toward the light. The additional iceight pushed the base of the colony doiun lakes and streams around the world.
into the silt and the rim grew upward and outward, creating a bowl shape Members of the same group of plants
below and a dome shape above. The dome was not solid but consisted of live in the ocean, where they assist in
branching columns with water spaces between, all advancing at an even rate. building so-called coral reefs, which

32 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


on the average contain about V4
algal limestone and less than %
coralline limestone. This accounts in
part for the resemblance of the La-
hontan tufas to coral reels. Geolo-
gists have found abundant fossil evi-
dence that similar species of plants
have been producing algal limestone
since the earliest periods of life on our
planet Earth.
The chemical cycle of reef building
may be explained briefly. Water,
charged with carbonic acid, dissolves
limestone from the surface outcrops
of the earth and changes it to cal-
cium bicarbonate which is carried
downstream in solution. Blue-green
algae in stream, lake or ocean, inter-
cept it, remove the carbon dioxide
and leave an insoluble residue of
calcium carbonate which, on the spot,
becomes limestone once more, in the
form of algal tufa.
In the Pyramid and Winnemucca
Lake portions of Lake Lahontan
there were plentiful submerged rocky
points, ledges and cliffs that furnished
good solid supports for algal colonies.

Above: Reef limestone, calcareous


algal tufa, above the shore of Pyra-

I
mid Lake, Nevada.

PIS Left: Varied textures of algal tufa


deposits, Pyramid Lake and Carson
Sink. Upper left: interior of broken
biscuit. Upper and lower right: cauli-

**
flower type surface. Lower left: pebble
and beaded texture. Center: nearly
complete small head.

Some grew to great size in the per-


sistently deep water and now have
become distinctive features of the
Ip scenery. Out on the underwater flats
of shallow bays like Carson Sink in
its late stages, shifting sands and
t settling muds made is difficult for
the plants to get and keep a foothold,
1 but some species made a go of it
based on individual scattered units
with relatively short life. This was
< it**' ,i*
the prime home of the small water
biscuits and the medium-sized heads
or mounds. Fluctuating water level
1 no doubt limited the life span and
size of these units. Favorite starting
places for the tiny colonies were

n
pebbles projecting above mud or
sand. The colonies grew from the
si/e of a thimble to that of a cabbage,
a washtub, an executive's desk or a
camping trailer, depending upon the
continuity of environment. Most of
them developed rounded, symmetri-
cal shapes like heads of cauliflower,
stemless toadstools, flower bowls or
hemispheres, with the original pebble
cemented in at the bottom near the
middle. As the weight of the "heads"
increased, those on soft bottom sank
into the mud. This changed the eluding all water and enclosed shore

KINGMAN ARIZONA
direction of their growth to a shallow
bowl shape surmounted by a dome.
Where the bottom of the lake was
features, it occupied about 1/6 of the
Great Basin area which is not just
one basin, but about 100 separate
flat and hard, providing lasting sup- undrained depressions with moun-
port, it became coated with irregular tains between them.
Large Level Lots flat sheets, or crusts, of rough tex-
tured tufa having surface features
Eventually, following the final dis-
appearance of the great ice fields and
WATER AND POWER like teeth, beadwork or grill pat- larger glaciers of the Sierra Nevada
TO EACH LOT terns. which had been feeding Lake Lahon-
Collectors of loose tufa "heads" tan, the main body evaporated below
$495 Full
Price
have a tendency to display their spec-
imens wrong side up, not knowing
the divides and left smaller lakes in
the separate basins. Lately, all of
these except Walker and Pyramid
Park your Trailer, which way they grew. When shown
Build a Home or in the natural position, the dense have disappeared, leaving wet season
Hold for Investment Month smooth side with a pebble in the playas or dry salt flats where residual
N O INTEREST middle is in the bottom. The crack- minerals were deposited. In the
ed or open-textured surface is the shrinking lakes a goodly share of the
WRITE FOR FREE PICTURES A N D MAPS
top. The broken tops and porous in- calcium carbonate was laid down on
ELMER L BUTLER teriors of the heads have been weath- the higher shores by algae. The rest
ered out, leaving an open bowl of it was carried clown with more
BOX 486, KINGMAN, ARIZONA
shape. soluble salts to the lowest parts of
Also Highway 66 Business Frontage the basins. When the saturation
At its highest, Lake Lahontan point was reached in the solution and
Let DESERT say, "Thank you." stood nearly 900 feet above the pre- evaporation continued, the minerals
sent bottom of Pyramid Lake. In- crystallized out the carbonates first,
on the bottom; the gypsum next, in
the middle; and the salts last, on the
CALL HIM A ROADRUNNER, PAISANO OR CUCKOO BIRD... top. Pyramid was saved from this
fate. Fed by the Truckee River, it
HSSTHE CRAZIEST BIRO YOU EVER SAW!! has in recent time overflowed north-
ward over a low divide, unloading
Our Roadrunner shows his colors on a tray its salts into the Smoke Creek Desert.
beautifully worked in inlays of veneer, brass
and enamel on satiny black. Impervious to
If this does not happen again, Pyra-
alcohol, boiling water and cigarette burns. mid Lake will become more salty.
LARGE SIZE 12'/jxl8 $13.50
Walker Lake has been receding quite
SMALL SIZE 103/4x15V2 $11.50 rapidly in the last few years and
CANAPE SIZE 6x7 $3.00 seems destined to become a playa.
(All Prices Include Postage.
Calif. Residents Add 4% Sales Tax)
Many of the basins of former lakes
contain tula deposits. Best known
Send Check or Money Order are The Pillars near Trona, Traver-
(No C.O.D.s Please) To:
tine Point, near Coachella, the Lake
THE ROADRUNNER
P. O. Box 984, Escondido, Calif.
Russell Reel at Lee Vining, and a de-
posit near Wingate Pass in the Pana-
mints. The algal tufas of California
and Nevada have great scientific and
scenic value. It is hoped that out-
s finest doorsmen will preserve them from
destruction of any sort. ///
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34 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


(jTROUPED AROUND a sun-
baked plaza near the old Vulture
Mine in Arizona is a weatherbeaten
VULTURE CITY, ARIZONA
collection of stone and adobe build- BY LAMBERT FLORIN
ings. These, together with sundry
frame shacks, make up what remains A monthly feature by the author of Ghost Town Album, Ghost
of Vulture City, a gold mining camp Town Trails, Western Ghost Towns and Western Ghost Town Shadows
steeped in a history of violence. The
larger stone structures at the left in
the photo contain the assay office at
the far end, then the bullion storage
room and mine offices. Last and
nearest is a large general store. At
the extreme right is a now decrepit
structure that may or may not have
been the jail. Better documented is
the history of the old ironwood tree
which stands in front. No less than
19 men's bodies have dangled from
its heavy lower limb during the ac-
tive period in Vulture City's history.
Death by strangulation on the hang-
ing tree was the fate of murderers,
horse thieves and one philanderer.
The latter was the 19th and last vic- After the old man's death, young the bird alright, but it didn't die im-
tim, being ushered to the noose at Heinrich found out why. He dug mediately. When Henry picked it up,
gunpoint by the outraged spouse of some and sold it, then found the the bird's thrashing wings brushed
one of the fair ladies of the camp. government would punish him for the dirt from a chunk of almost solid
not turning it over to them. He fled gold, uncovering a vein that would
In the floor of the bullion-holding to America, changing his name to yield millions of dollars, though not
vault in the central building is a Henry Wickenburg. He never stop- to him.
cavernous stone-lined pit covered ped until he got to Arizona, where
by a heavy iron door. This was used he took up a career of prospecting. After struggling with the Vulture
during periods of heavy gold produc- Mine single-handed for several years,
Arriving in Yuma in 1862, he made
tion to store bullion awaiting ship- he sold out to the giant Phelps Dodge
ment. One day in the 1880s a string plans to join the party of Major
Corporation. Reputedly he received
of three horsemen and two pack- Van Bibber at La Paz, but got there
only $20,000, the down payment.
horses drew up in front of the group too late. The young man, fresh When years of litigation failed to
of buildings. Two of the men were from Austria, managed to track the produce more, Henry Wickenburg
the notorious Valenzuela brothers, Major and his party through 200 walked out of his tiny shack on the
Inocente and Francisco, the other was miles of Arizona desert to Peeples Hassayampa, sat down on a rock
unidentified. When the roughly- Valley, where he joined the group. under a nearby tree and shot himself
dressed men demanded that the After all that trouble, the party in the head.
vault be opened and the gold handed split up because of poor results in
over, a guard and the superintendent prospecting along the Hassayampa, In the meantime, a town had
protested. Both were instantly killed and Wickenburg headed into the grown up along the Hassayampa and
by the bandits. Then, under cover nearby hills alone. There, too, results because of the Austrian's early at-
of Francisco, Inocente entered the were meager. The Austrian consider- tempts to mill his ore there, it ac-
room and lifted the door, which was ed rejoining the Van Bibber party, quired his name. Modern Wicken-
conveniently unlocked contrary to but camped near a peak to think over burg has now become the center of
rules. While the third man waited, his decision. To obtain a broom to a complex of dude ranches, admit-
the brothers transferred the bars to clean his tent, he shot a wheeling vul- tedly hot in summer, but with per-
the ready boxes on the pack horses. ture for its feathered wing. He hit fect temperature in winter. ///
About this time a blaze of gunfire
broke out on both sides. One bandit
was killed; the other two made their
getaway while a posse was being or- SINCE 1931"
ganized. By the time they were over-
taken, they had buried the gold. One
robber was killed, the other purposely
permitted to escape. He was shadow-
tflcbile
ed for two months, after which time
he felt it safe to return for his hard
J}H Travel Trailer
won gold. He was allowed to uncover
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Henrich Heintzel had long known MODEL 26 with WATER-GARD purifier;
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ishing point, but the father refused.
l act; / n«—-* u~
BONES OF BAJA cided to await the shovels. Then, for
(Continued from Page 25) two hours we dug rocks and dirt
from the floor of the cave until we hit
METAL one in which Ricardo discovered the
bones and artifacts mentioned above.
hard rock. With the exception of sea
shells and a small piece of flint, we
Manuelo had also accompanied that found nothing. I was bitterly dis-
DETECTORS exploration and after our departure
last spring, he reported Ricardo's dis-
appointed. So was everyone else, ex-
cept Dr. Margain. At least, he didn't
covery to the fishermen in the area. show disappointment, but rather, a
One of them climbed the mountain to scientist's reasoning.
place a picture of The Madonna and
a candle in the cave. We have found "It just isn't logical . . . those stones
that natives will not dig where there were put there by man to cover
DETECTRON'S MODEL 711 $149.00 are signs of former inhabitants. Now something," he kept repeating.
7-T Transistorked $139.50 the site was adequately marked! Reluctantly, we left the diggings
and Conception Bay to drive over
RAYTRON'S MODEL 990 $165.00 Following a mountain goat trail, the dangerous cliff road before dark.
27 (Deluxe) $119.95 1 discovered other large caves, but That night I dreamed of pre-historic
27-T transistorized $135.50 no artifacts. Across the valley an- men in a silent empty cave overlook-
other series of large caves tempted ing Conception Bay.
me and I was about to take off for
them when I noticed a faint trail At breakfast the next morning
GOLD BUG leading between two fallen rocks. Choral and I expected to find a group
Dry Concentrator. of dejected explorers. Instead, Dr.
Hand operated. Ideal
Squeezing between the boulders, I
for prospecting, discovered a small cave filled with Margain was very enthusiastic.
pocket hunting or rocks not indigenous to the area. "All indications point to early man
sampling. These, quite obviously, had been de- as having lived in this area. It might
12V2 lbs. $99.50 liberately piled in the mouth of the
Production models even be another marginal area where
available. cave. I started to remove them, but we hope to prove man existed 40,000
it was too great a task for one man. years ago," he said. "Baja should cer-
Also Lapidary Equipment, Gems and Returning to the other side of the tainly be explored and excavated as
Minerals, Books, Jewelry, Tools.
mountain, I met the rest of the group soon as time and finances permit."
For Information Write
coming up. They followed me back On the way to the airport we stop-
COMPTON ROCK SHOP to the cave. ped to examine and photograph a col-
1405 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton, Calif. lection of arrowheads and artifacts
Telephone. 632-9096 "There's every indication that this
is a burial cave," Dr. Margain said, owned by two sisters, Senoras Blance
after examining the rocks. Although Villavicencio and Amelia Villavicen-
Give an interesting gift by now it was late in the day, Sam cios de Padilla. The collection, which
Hicks, and Manuelo (who scampers Dr. Margain examined in painstak-
barefoot over the hard, rocky terrain) ing detail, was given to them many
returned to Manuelo's ranch for years ago by their uncle, a Catholic
shovels while the rest of us removed priest.
only $4.50 a year stones by hand. After encountering In the plane flying back to Mexi-
two large scorpions, however, we de- cali, I asked Dr. Margain when and
what would be the next step. "First,
I will take my findings to the Uni-
Finest Camper Ever Made! veristy (of Mexico) and we will tab-
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MACDONALD angle," he explained. "Then I will


make my report."
"And when will you start the dig-
ging expedition?"
Dr. Margain explained there are
11,000 archeological sites in Mexico
JUST A FEW HOURS with simple hand
alone, all of which in varying degrees
tools and you'll own the finest camper
contribute to our knowledge of early
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are, must be determined," he said.
"But even if they prove very import-
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"But we have taken the first step

36 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


anci I am certain this trip will lead to
important discoveries in the future. NEW-full command 4-SPEED STICK SHIFT
Just how soon can only be determined
by the economic situation. This, I
must say, is the determining factor
in all archeological expeditions, but
I hope it can come soon. It will not
only contribute to our archeological
knowledge, but will also help the
area economically."
He was interrupted by a shout from
Sam Hicks, who had been sitting in
a corner making sketches on a note-
pad.
"I've got it," he yelled. "We weren't
digging in the right place. Remember
that big rock in front of the cave?
That must have originally been part
of the overhang . . . the cave was
much larger . . . the rock fell down,
^DATSU
making us think the cave was smaller
than it actually was. The burial place
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As we landed at Mexicali, Uncle YOUR DEALER TODAY! Attn: Car Dealers-write for franchise info.

Erie was busily reviewing his sche-


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"Now let's see, I get back from Ja-
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TriTllirfTV. 1QR.S / Mn t 37
DlAVtL COOKERY
Food Editor JUL

MUSHROOM BEAN CASSEROLE MUSHROOM MEAT LOAF SWISS STEAK SUPREME


2 cups Navy beans, washed 1 cup sliced mushrooms, drained 1 Vi lbs. thin round steak
Vi teaspoon soda Vi cup chopped onion, or 1 tea- Salt and pepper
5 cups water spoon Instant mixed onion Flour
Soak overnight. 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons shortening
The next day cook the beans in a 1/3 cup sour creeam Vi cup bouillon or 2 bouillon cubes
heavy kettle slowly for 1 to 1 Vz 13Vi lb. ground beef in V2 cup water
hours, or until tender but not mushy. A cup oatmeal 1 can Blue Lake vertical beans
When they begin to boil, add 2 tea- 2 eggs Vi teaspoon Lawry's seasoning
spoons salt and 2 tablespoons but- 1 teaspoon salt, pepper salt
ter. When tender, drain. Cook Vi 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Vi cup mayonnaise
cup chopped onion in 2 tablespoons 2/3 cup milk Vi cup shredded Parmesan cheese
butter until limp. Add V2 lb. sliced Brown mushrooms and onion in but- Tomato wedges
mushrooms or 1 to IVi cups canned ter, slightly. Remove from heat and Trim and discard excess fat from
drained mushrooms and saute. Now stir in sour cream. Combine meat, steak and cut into serving pieces.
make a white sauce of 6 tablespoons oatmeal, salt, pepper, eggs, Wor- Pound flour in with back of knife.
butter, 6 tablespoons flour and 3 cestershire sauce and milk. Shape Season with salt and pepper. Brown
cups of milk, salt and pepper to half the meat mixture to form an meat in shortening. Add bouillon,
taste. Add Vi cup cut-up pimento, 2 oval base and place in shallow bak- cover and cook over low heat until
tablespoons chopped parsley and 2 ing dish. Make well in mound and meat is tender, about 1V2 to 2 hours.
tablespoons Sherry. Add beans, spoon mushroom filling into this. Turn undrained beans into sauce-
mushrooms and onions and mix Shape remaining meat mixture over pan with Lawry's seasoning and
carefully. Turn into buttered casser- filling, being sure all filling is cov- heat gently. Drain beans and ar-
ole and sprinkle with Parmesan ered. Seal bottom and top mixtures range on top of meat. Combine may-
cheese. Bake at 325 degrees for by pressing to-gether. Bake at 350 onnaise and cheese and spoon over
about 40 minutes. To make a one degrees about 1 hour. Let stand for beans. Run under broiler until
dish meal, add chunks of cooked a few minutes before slicing. Pass lightly browned. Garnish with to-
ham. a bowl of mushroom sauce to pour mato wedges.
over loaf. This may be made by
heating a can of mushroom soup
with Vi can of milk. This is very-
good and not highly seasoned, as
POTATO and HAM CASSEROLE most meat loaves are. DINNER IN FOIL
Butter Wi -quart casserole and make Place a thick round steak on large
a layer of thinly sliced potatoes. enough piece of foil to cover well.
Add a layer of cubes or chunks of Over this spread a package of onion
cooked ham, then another layer of DINNER MEDLEY soup mix. Over this slice potatoes
potatoes. Mix Vi can milk with 1 1 lb. beef stew meat, cubed or halve small new potatoes. Then
can of mushroom soup, and pour 1 tablespoon oil or shortening put a layer of sliced carrots on top
over all. Cook in 350 degree oven Vi cup chopped onion of potatoes and if you wish a few
for about 45 min. or until potatoes 7 cups water sliced onions. Fold foil over all se-
are done. 1 teaspoon salt, pepper curely, place in baking pan and
1 package dry vegetable soup bake at 350 degrees for 2 hours.
mix
1 1 lb. can stewed tomatoes
1 1 lb. can whole kernel corn,
RANCH CASSEROLE drained
Cook 1 lb. ground steak in 1 table- 8 oz. macaroni (I like the shell CAMP SPAGHETTI
spoon butter, but do not brown. Add type) Cook 1 8 oz. package of spaghetti
1 envelope of onion soup mix Brown meat in shortening. Add on- and drain. Cook 1 lb. ground beef
Vi cup water ion and brown slightly. Add water, until it loses red color, but is not
Vi cup chili sauce salt, pepper and soup mix. Simmer brown in IV2 tablespoons oil or but-
1 tablespoon vinegar gently, uncovered for 2 hours. Add ter. Add salt and pepper to taste.
2 cans pork and beans tomatoes and corn and bring to boil. Combine spaghetti, meat, 1 finely
1 can kidney beans Add macaroni. Cover and cook for cut onion, 1 can tomatoes and cook
Mix well and add a little water if 20 minutes, stirring occasionally for about 20 minutes. Add 1 large
it seems dry. Cook in covered cas- until macaroni is tender. 4 to 6 serv- can sliced mushrooms and cook 5
serole for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. ings. minutes longer.

38 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


A monthly series featuring the Custom Made Auto Sun Shades
Lowest Photo Print Prices age-old uses of desert plants by
Highest Quality primitive people everywhere.

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Reprints from Kodacolor negs
-$3.30
$ .16
DISPENSARY to 15 degrees cooler. Blocks the sun's rays
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Ideal for campers, travelers, and every day
driving. Greatly improves air conditioning

Send for price sheets by $$m Hkh efficiency. Custom made for cars 1955
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All other and prices. Give make of station wagon,
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Photo prices are
ment. SIDLES MFG. CO., Box 3537D, Temple,
comparably low
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from bells of native 3 Ounces Andamooka and Coober Pedy
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Including copper
wind vane, approx.
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12" overall. OR White Sage, grows Australian Gemstones.
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Order IB MELBOURNE, C.I. AUSTRALIA
ico. Tea cooked from its leaves is
GLOBAL GIFTS taken internally as a poison oak re-
Box 96 medy. It is also used as an external
Claypool, Arizona
treatment and areas affected by poi- Stop That Thief
son oak are generously bathed in the
Let DESERT say, "Thank you." same solution. With A
Lock Strap!
Salvia. was used extensively in the
JEWELRY CXAfTS CATALOG past by the Indian tribes of Southern $4.00
California as an aid to childbirth.
FREE "6 page* Quantities of the tall, white plants Fits all G.I. cans, holders or carriers, steel
Lapidary — rockhounding — jewelry making. were burned and the expectant mo- constructed. Electric welded and bright zinc
add up to a fascinating creative art!
ther's body was completely covered plated.
GET CRAFT'S BIGGEST CATALOG with the hot ashes. The treatment Add 4 % sales tax for California. No. C.O.D.s
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STONES—JEWELRY MATERIALS
MOUNTINGS —BOOKS —CRAFT TOOLS
pecially males, were "cooked" in the
MACHINERY—SUPPLIES—ETC. hot Salvia ashes. These "cooked ba-
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strongest and healthiest members of
GRIEGER'S, INC. their respective tribes and are claimed The Healer Everyone is Talking About!
Dept 30 -1633 E. Walnut —Pasadena, Calif.
to have been immune from all respi-
ratory ailments for life!
Teas of varying strengths, and a
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Send Check or Money Order to DESERT. The advertiser appreci- Brochure and Name of Nearest Dealer.
MAX ates this information and DESERT
P. O. Box 621 222 S. GILBERT ST.
Nipomo, California 93444
appreciates your loyalty. HEMET, CALIF.
658-9421

Tanuarv. lP/fi5 / Desert \AnncT7\rto / 3


HOW TO PLACE YOUR AD
• Mail your copy and first-insertion remit-
tance to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine,
Palm Desert, Calif.
• Classified rates are 20c per word, $4
CLASSIFIEDS minimum per insertion.

• BOOKS-MAGAZINES • BOOKS-MAGAZINES FOR WOMEN


BOOK HUNTING is our business, service is our BOOKS: "Old Bottles and Ghost Towns," many LADY GODIVA "The World's Finest Beautifier."
product. No charge for search. Satisfaction sketches. See Desert, February '63 issue. $2.15 Your whole beauty treatment in one jar.
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Box 3352-D, San Bernardino, Calif. 92404. Bishop, California. dena 6, California.

OUT-OF-print books at lowest prices! You name "OVERLOOKED FORTUNES" in minerals and gem
it—we find it! Western Americana, desert and stones; here are a few of the 300 or more GEMS, DEALERS
Indian books a specialty. Send us your wants. you may be overlooking: uranium, vanadium,
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emeralds, etc. Some worth $1 to $2 a pound, gifts for those who are not rock hounds.
LEARN ABOUT gems from Handbook of Gems others $25 to $200 per ounce; an emerald Minerals, slabs, rough materials, lapidary sup-
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gems. $3 plus tax. Gemac Corporation, Box cash in on them. New simple system. Send 593 West La Cadena Drive, Riverside, Calif.
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Frank Fish, 93 bonafide locations, photos and Box 666-B, Truth or Consequences, New terial, machinery, lapidary and jeweler's sup-
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hunter who made it pay. Large 19x24" color- Sumner's, 21108 Devonshire, Chatsworth, Cal.
ed map, pinpointing book locations. Book "GEMS & Minerals Magazine," largest rock hobby
$1.50, map $1.50. Special: both $2.50 post- monthly. Field trips, "how" articles, pictures,
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Zimmerman, Dept. D., Box 2641, Amarillo, Burden, Wickenburg 3, Arizona. PROSPECTORS, ROCKHOUNDS, outdoorsmen:
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locate and identify rocks and minerals. A
• EQUIPMENT-SUPPLIES comprehensive home study course designed
"BACKWARD THROUGH a Bottle," histories and
for anyone interested in exploring for valu-
pictures of ghost towns, bottles and relics of
QUALITY CAMPING and mountaineering equip- able ore deposits. Write now for free liter-
Territorial Arizona. Kay Devner, 8945 East 20th,
ment. Down sleeping bags, lightweight tents, ture. Pacific School of Mines, Dept. J-12,
Tucson, Arizona.
boots. Free catalog. Highland Outfitters, P.O. Box 2538, Palm Springs, Calif. 92263.
Box 121, Riverside, Calif.
GHOST TOWN Bottle Price Guide, now in second
printing. Designed to help the collector evalu- JUST RELEASED! Quick-use mineral identifier, • INDIAN GOODS
ate his bottles. Research compiled from dealers positively identifies 244 rocks, minerals. Ideal
in Western states. An interesting guide, nicely for classrooms, home or field use. Send $1. SELLING 20,000 Indian relics. 100 nice ancient
illustrated. $2 prepaid. Wes Bressie, Rt. 1, Tomac Research, Ltd.DM, 3959-A Park Blvd., arrowheads $25. Indian skull $25. List free.
Box 582-A, Eagle Point, Oregon. San Diego, Calif. 92103. Lear's, Glenwood, Arkansas.

40 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


• INDIAN GOODS • PLANTS, SEEDS TREASURE FINDERS
FINE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo, Zuni, Hopi 1965 WILDFLOWER AND Wild Tree Seed Catalog, FUN & PROFIT finding buried treasure, relics
jewelry. Old pawn. Many fine old baskets, lists over 700 choice varieties including many with transistor M-Scope. Known worldwide for
moderately priced, in excellent condition bonsai. Scientific name, common name. In- supersensitivity, dependability. Guaranteed.
Navajo rugs, Yei blankets, Chimayo blankets, formative; artistic; trade secrets revealed. 50c Very easy terms. Send for free literature, fas-
pottery. A collector's paradise! Open daily Clyde Robin, Collector of Wildflower and Wild cinating user experiences. Fisher Research,
10 to 5:30, closed Mondays. Buffalo Trading Tree Seeds, P.O. Box 2091, Castro Valley, Dept. JZ, Palo Alto, California.
Post, Highway 18, Apple Valley, California. Calif. For early spring blooms plant wildflower
seeds before December. • WESTERN MERCHANDISE
AUTHENTIC INDIAN jewelry, Navajo rugs, Chi-
mayo blankets, squaw boots. Collector's items. SMOKETREES, OTHER Hi - Desert natives from
GHOST TOWN items: Sun-colored glass, amethyst
Closed Tuesdays. Pow-Wow Indian Trading $1. Send a friend. Rancho Environmental Nur-
to royal purple; ghost railroads materials,
Post, 19967 Ventura Blvd., East Woodland sery, 71554 Samarkand Drive, Twentynine
tickets; limited odd items from camps of the
Hills, Calif. Open Sundays. Palms, California, 92277. Demonstration Gar-
'60s. Write your interest—Box 64-D, Smith,
den and Phone 367-6124.
Nevada.
• JEWELRY
• REAL ESTATE RANCH TRADING Post. Antiques, relics, bottles.
GENUINE TURQUOISE bolo ties $1.50, 11 stone Saturday and Sunday treasure-table specials.
turquoise bracelet $2. Gem quality golden FOR INFORMATION on desert acreage and par- Stop on your way through scenic Coachella
tiger-eye $1.75 pound, beautiful mixed agate cels for sale in or near Twentynine Palms, Valley. Weekends only or phone EXpress
baroques $3 pound. Postage and tax extra. please write to or visit: Silas S. Stanley, Realtor, 9-5526. Avenue 62 and Monroe; 8 miles south
Tubby's Rock Shop, 2420V2 Honolulu Ave., 73644 Twentynine Palms Highway, Twenty- of Indio, signs to ranch.
Montrose, California. nine Palms, California.
FOR SALE: Private collection purple desert glass,
400,000,000 ACRES government land available 50 pieces $100. Plus postage, 25403 Bejoal
• MAPS in 25 states, some low as $1 acre, 1964 report. Street, Barstow, California.
Send $1 to National Land, 422T2 Washington
SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps - San Bernardino Building, Washington, D.C. COLLECTION OF 10 unusual desert rocks and
$3; Riverside $1; Imperial, small $1, large $2; crystals, $3 postpaid. Cholla cactus jewelry.
San Diego $1.25; Inyo $2.50; Kern $1.25; • TREASURE FINDERS Beautiful wood and rock for indoor or patio
other California counties $1.25 each. Nevada arrangements. Desert Comber, Box 5066,
counties $1 each. Include 4 percent sales tax. FIND LOST or hidden treasures with new tran- Phoenix, Arizona.
Topographic maps of all mapped western sistor metal detector, underwater metal de-
areas- Westwide Maps Co., 114 West Third tectors, scintillation counters, etc. Free litera- WANTED! COLLECTOR buys defunct railroad
Street, Los Angeles 13, California. ture. Gardiner Electroncis, Dept. 51, 4729 stock and bond certificates, especially Western.
North 7th Ave., Phoenix, Arizona. Have you any? Robert Greenawalt, 3643 North
LOST AND Buried Treasure Map. Great Southwest Rosemead, Rosemead, California.
U.S./Mexico, 84 locations, on parchment, for FINEST TRANSISTOR metal locators, $34.95 to
research or framing. Send $1. Tomac Research, $275. Find coins, souvenirs, treasure. Informa-
Ltd.-DM, 3959-A Park Blvd., San Diego, Calif. tive folder, "Metal Locating Kinks," 25c. • MISCELLANEOUS
92103. IGWTD, Williamsburg, New Mexico.
HAVE A sweet tooth? Try Sally's Vitality Bar
POWERFUL METROTECH locators detect gold, sil-
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GET INSURANCE in Mexico's largest casualty (each 1V2 oz.) $5.95; six bars $2 postpaid.
Dept. 3A, Box 793, Menlo Park, California.
company through Sanborn's—by mail or at California buyers add 4% tax. Sally's Food Co.
affiliated service offices in El Centro, Yuma, NEW SUPERSENSITIVE transistor locators detect Box 780, Newhall, Calif.
Nogales, El Paso. Write for daily insurance buried gold, silver, coins. Kits, assembled
rates—and ask for free Mexico Travel-Aid models. $19.95 up. Underwater models avail- FISHERMEN, TRANSISTORIZED fish call, patented
packet, very helpful in planning your Mexico able. Free catalog. Relco-A18, Box 10563 and tested. Creates sonic oscillations and light
motor trip. Sanborn's, McAllen, Texas 78502. Houston, 18, Texas. waves, brings fish from 300 yards. Send for
complete details. Rama Sales, Dept. D., 4700
DISCOVER BURIED loot, gold, silver, coins, battle- Crenshaw, Los Angeles, Calif. 90043.
• MINING field and ghost town relics, with most power-
ful, sensitive transistorized metal detectors
PROSPECTING EQUIPMENT. Everything for the available. Two Year Warranty. Free literature.
prospector, mineralogist and rock hound. Send Goldak, Dept. DM, 1544 W. Glenoaks, Glen- Let DESERT say, "Thank you."
25c for 44 page catalog. Inquiries invited. dale, California 91201.
Miners & Prospectors Supply, 1345 E. Fire-
stone, Goleta, California.
GOLD ASSAY kit for 25 assays, $12.95. Portable
drill (gas) weighs 12 pounds, $99.50. Dry
washers, prospectors' supply. Kerns, 14039
Don Julian, La Puente, Calif.
ASSAYS. COMPLETE, accurate, guaranteed. High-
est quality spectrographic. Only $4.50 per
sample. Reed Engineering, 620-R So. Ingle-
wood Ave., Inglewood, California.

• OLD COINS, STAMPS


UNCIRCULATED SILVER dollars, 1878-79-80-81-82
S mint or 1883-84-85 O mint $2.50 each. 1878
CC mint VF $7.50. New 100-page catalog 50c.
Shultz, Salt Lake City, Utah 84110.

• PHOTO SUPPLIES
RAPID, CONVENIENT mail service for quality
black-white or color film finishing. Write for
our free bargain brochure. The complete pho-
tographic store since 1932: Morgan Camera
Shop, 6262 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood 28, Calif.
COLOR SLIDES, 35 mm, western national parks,
monuments, nature. Free lists. Or try sending
some spare, western originals to trade for
our Rocky Mountain kodachrome originals.
Nesbit's Quality Westerns, 721 Columbia Road,
Colorado Springs, Colo. 80904.

January, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 41


LETTERS
FROM OUR READERS

Letters requesting answers must include stamped sell-addressed envelopes

Admirer of Borax Smith . . . Found Lost Mine? . •.


To the Editor: I was interested in the ar- To the Editor: I read with interest the
ticle about Borax Smith in the Nov. '64 article in the October issue about Hank
No Arch Criminals . . . issue. I knew him personally. The story of Brandt's lost mine. In 1946, while I was
To the Editor: When Mrs. Rollins reported his life is a tragedy—particularly his de- working for an Eastern engineering com-
lhat neither she nor Capt. Bill Wessel could cline—and one that should be better un- pany in the Fish Creek Mountains, 1 was
locate Calico's- famous Kramer Arch, I derstood. His first wife, Mary R. Smith, searching for the section corner of some
dropped the Nov. DESERT and jumped and my mother were founders of the YWCA company property. On the top of a hill
into my car. in Oakland and with his financial help did 1 was scanning the terrain through binocu-
There have been cases of devastating a great deal for young women who needed lars and noticed a well-defined trail around
vandalism in this region during recent years. help. He formed the Mary R. Smith Trust the side of a hill below. 1 worked my way
That someone had dynamited Kramer Arch with an endowment of $240,000 to build down the hill and walked about 500 feet
was my immediate fear. This arch is not six homes in East Oakland and a club when I came upon a mine shaft. Some
very large, compared to other scenic arches house known as the Home Club for needy prospector had made a lot of trips around
in the West, but it's distinctive. When I young women. He became interested in the side of that hill and had done a lot of
came to the Mule Canyon-Phillips Drive public utilitites and the development of digging. That night, back in Brawley, I
junction where the road to Kramer's Arch the barren hillsides back of Berkeley and told some people about it who believed 1 had
forks to the left, and ascended the serpen- Piedmont through the salesmanship of rediscovered the Hank Brandt mine. This
tine grade of the hill to park beside the Frank Havens, a great dreamer. They particular digging was under a 30-inch-wide
footpath to Kramer's Arch, I dreaded the formed the Realty Syndicate with Smith's vein of ore. There were other diggings
sight that might await me at its end. money and put East Bay on the map. The nearby, which I did not have time to
Fortunately, all was well. Like a fat fall of Smith was due to the questionable investigate. As I recall, this was about an
doughnut, Kramer arched across the pink transactions of a group of bankers who, hour's walk from Carrizo.
terrain. Sunlight flooded through its open- when the time was right, foreclosed on him HAROLD HAWKINS,
ing and a glorious sky hung above. Every- and stripped him of his last dollar, even San Diego, California
think at Kramer's Arch was like it always the endowment of the Mary Smith Trust.
had been during my lifetime, and like it PERCY D. GASKILL. Desert Oyster Beds . . .
will be, I hope, for many years to come. Santa Ana, California
There aren't any signs to direct tourists to To the Editor: Please renew my subscrip-
it. but I'm grateful to be able to report to tion. 1 wouldn't v/ant to miss a single issue
DESERT readers that it's still right where of DESERT. We were interested in an ar-
it belongs and it's not too hard to find if ticle in October about a trip to the an-
you look for the footpath. cient oyster beds located in Imperial
Death Valley . . . County. We wonder if you know about the
MARIE HUBBELL, To the Editor: We in Death Valley thor- oyster beds which are within sight of your
Yermo, California oughly appreciated the November issue of office in Palm Desert? In the spring of '24
DESERT and think that you and the fea- my husband and 1 lived at Thousand Palms,
ture writers did a very fine job. We know which was then called Edom. The grape-
Preserve Piute Beaut... the stories in this special issue about the fruit ranch directly across the tracks from
Valley cloaked in mystery and legend will the Southern Pacific RR depot was owned
To the Editor: Your May, 1964 issue car- conjure enthusiasm and bring many new by a Mr. McKesson and his son Ed, who
ried an article about California's vanishing visitors to the area. was quite a naturalist, pointed out some
Piute Cypress that interested us. Mr. Ar- yellow clay spots atop the low hills to the
thur Ogilvie of Palo Alto, advisor for our JOHN A. AUBUCHON,
Superintendent, north and told us they were oyster beds. We
Explorer Post 205 of the San Mateo County made several trips to them and found the
Council of Boy Scouts, read it and suggest- Death Valley National Monument
yellow clay contained shells of all sizes—
ed we add the preservation of this species some up to six inches across. We thought
to a project already underway for the pre- this might interest readers traveling in that
servation of the Santa Lucia Fir. The Post area.
has made trips to the Piute Cypress area
on Sequoia National Forest land to do what Chalking of Petroglyphs . . . ETHEL LUTTRELL,
Norco, California
physical services could be done, such as To the Editor: Your readers will be inter-
cutting down weeds to open seedlings to ested in an opinion on the chalking of
the light. Mr. Ogilvie has written to the petroglyphs for photography that appeared PHOTO CONTEST RULES
Forest Service to see if the Post can fence in the Newsletter of the Archeological Sur-
around the seedlings and the tree of the vev Assoc. of Southern California last sum- 1—Prints for monthly contests must be
lone tree grove to keep cattle from damag- mer. First, chalk, being a precipitate of black and white, 5x7 or larger, printed on
ing seedlings and to prevent further com- limestone nearly insoluble in water, is al- glossy paper.
paction of the soil around the lone tree most impossible to wash off the typically 2—Each photograph submitted should
by the cattle. The groves that exist on pri- porous rocks into which the petroglyphs be fully labeled as to subject, time and
vate property are on land now leased for are usually incised. The chalk will wash place. Also technical data: camera, shut-
mining exploration and a number of trees into the pores of rock and remain there for ter speed, hour of day, etc.
are being destroyed. We have contacted a long time. Second, in chalking a petro- 3—PRINTS WILL BE RETURNED ONLY
various conservation organizations and hope glyph one is often required to make sub- WHEN RETURN POSTAGE IS ENCLOSED.
it will be possible to purchase the 150-acre jective judgments as to whether certain 4—All entries must be in the Desert
parcel of the Bodfish Grove and the entire lines are part of the original carving. Con- Magazine office by the 20th of the contest
500-600 acres of the Back Canyon Grove sequently, a chalked petroglyph may be month.
so as to establish a Piute Cypress Preserve misrepresented. Third, modern cameras, 5—Contests are open to both amateur
under the Bureau of Land Management and films, and techniques permit photographing and professional photographers.
the Forest and Park Services. By writing to of unchalked petroglyphs with a high de- 6—FIRST PRIZE will be $15; SECOND
Explorer Post 205, Bsa., East Palo Alto, gree of clarity and definition. This is es- PRIZE, 8. For non-winning pictures accep-
Calif., interested citizens who would like pecially true if the photo is taken about ted for publication S3 each will be paid.
to help may inquire about the Piute Cypress 15 feet from the rock with the light hitting Although not part of the contest. Desert
Preserve Fund. at right angles to its surface. is also interest in viewing 4x5 color trans-
parencies for possible front cover use. We
PETER LARNED, ALBERT MOGG, pay S25 per transparency.
East Palo Alto, California Woodland Hills, California

42 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965


JANUARY

PHOTO

CONTEST

WINNERS

First Prize
I VOTED REPUBLICAN"
Ruth A . Brown
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

By handling this 4-inch horned toad or


lizard (Phrynosona, a branch of the iguana
family) gently, he posed on her father's
hand as Miss Brown shot him with a double
extended bellows on a 4x5 Crown Graphic,
using ground glass focusing, with a subject
to lens distance of about 5 inches. DATA:
Royal Pan, 200 at f22.

Second Prize
FOSSIL BEDS
James E. Price
BARSTOW, CALIFORNIA

A wierdly shaped Joshua Tree is the fore-


ground for the fossil beds near Barstow,
California. DATA: Rollieflex, 2.8 lens,
Pantatomic X, 125 at fl6.

Photo Contest Rules


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