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GOLDEN CHIA by Harrison Doyle. The only re- RAY MANLEY'S SOUTHWESTERN INDIAN BAJA CALIFORNIA GUIDE by Cliff Cross in-
ference book on the chia plant and seed. This ARTS AND CRAFTS is a full color presentation cludes highway information on the new trans-
book illustrates the great difference between the of the culture of the Southwest including jewel- peninsula highway, accommodations, etc. All
high desert chia, and the Mexican variety sold in ry, pottery, baskets, rugs, kachinas, Indian art updated material, 60 maps, .450 photos, large
the health food stores. If you study, practice and and sandpaintings. 225 color photographs, inter- format, $4.95.
lake to heart, especially the last ten pages of this esting descriptive text. Heavy paperback, 96
nutritionally up-to-date, newly revised book, you pages, $7.95. TREASURE HUNTER'S MANUAL #7 by Karl
will find many answers you've been searching von Mueller. Treasure, or treasure trove, may
for to the achievement of health and well being, consist of anything having a cash or convertible
lengthen your life expectancy measureably, and value; money in all forms, bullion, jewelry,
be 99% less susceptible to disease of any sort. guns, gems, heirlooms, genuine antiques, rare
Fourth printing, 105 pages, illustrated. Paper- letters and documents, rare books and much,
back $4.75, cloth, $7.75. much more. This complete manual covers every
facet of treasure hunting. Paperback, 293 pages,
illustrated, $6.50.
CALIFORNIA Five-In-One COOK BOOK by Al
and Mildred Fischer. Recipes divided into Early
California (Indian, Mexican, Mission, Gold WELLS FARGO, The Legend by Dale Robert-
Rush), California Fruits (Citrus, Dates, Avoca- son. In his personal narrative style, the author
dos, etc.), California Products (Honey, Rice, has recreated the Wells Fargo legend, bringing
Beef, etc.), Sea Foods and Wine Cooking. A to life the Concord stage, Black Bart, the intre-
total of 400 unusual recipes, spiral-bound, 142 pid stage drivers, the California Gold Rush and
pages, $3.00. Nevada silver strike. Beautiful illustrations by
Roy Purcell. Paperback, 154 pages, $4.95.
HANS KLEIBER, Artist of the Bighorn Moun- ADVENTURES IN THE REDWOODS by Har-
riett E. Weaver. Miss Weaver, California's first WILDLIFE OF THE SOUTHWEST DESERTS by
tains by Emmie Mygatt and Roberta Cheney. A Jim Cornett. Written for the layman and serious
man who loved nature above all, this legacy of woman park ranger, tells the fascinating history
of the giant redwood, and in addition, gives a de- students alike, this is an excellent book on all of
Hans Kleiber's superb etchings and paintings is the common animals of the Southwest deserts. A
admirably presented by the authors as a glimpse tailed guide to all major redwood groves in both
the coastal and Sierra regions. Beautifully illus- must for desert explorers, it presents a brief life
into the experiences which served as back- history of everything from ants to burros. Paper-
ground and inspiration for his art. Horizontal trated, paperback, 160 pages, $2.95.
back, 80 pages, illustrated, $2.99.
81/ix11 format, 74 etchings, 22 paintings, aqua- WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE MOTHER
lints, photographs, cloth bound, boxed, $17.95. LODE by James Klein. As in his Where to Find FORKED TONGUES AND BROKEN TREATIES
Gold in the Desert and Where to Find Gold in Edited by Donald E. Worcester. This book gives
SELDOM SEEN SLIM by Tom Murray. Profiles Southern California, author Klein guides you to us a better understanding of the unequal strug-
and vignettes of the colorful "single blanket the areas in which people are doing the best gle of native against immigrant while our nation
jackass prospectors" who lived and died as they now. He includes history, tips on equipment was being explored and settled. Profusely illus-
looked for gold and silver in Death Valley. Slick needed, how to pan, how to stake claims, etc. trated with excellent photos, a "must" refer-
paperback, exclusive photos of the old-timers, Paperback, 121 pages, illustrated with photos ence for historians, students, librarians. Hard-
55 pages, $3.00. and maps, $4.95 each. cover, 494 pages, $9.95.
Color Separations by
Henry Color Service
Volume 39, Number 11 NOVEMBER 1976
Lithographed by
Rotary Offset Printers
Available in Microfilm by
Xerox University Microfilms
CONTENTS
F E A T U R E S
EDITORIAL AND CIRCULATION OFFICES: 74-425 Highway 111, Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Area Code 714 346-8144. NATIONAL
ADVERTISING OFFICES: JE Publishers' Representative, 8732 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90069. Telephone Area Code 213 659-3810. Listed
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and old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly. Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and at additional
mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1976 by DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all contents must be
secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs will not be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed and stamped envelope.
3
Desort/November 1976
BACK ISSUES A Peek pp
AT in the W\NCIERER
A Publishers
LOW
PRIG Poke
UR NOVEMBER cover is the handi-
Complete work of Roy Purcell, of Henderson,
'66,'67,'68
Nevada and sets the tone for this
'70,'71,'72,'73
Volumes year's Death Valley issue. Roy is the
artist responsible for the murals near
Chloride, Arizona which many readers
have inquired about. More samples of By Slim Barnard
Each
his fine work appear in this issue with an The tours by the Happy Wandereis con-
article written by a great fan of his, tain excellent maps, mileage, history
Plus 75c postage of the areas, costs of gasoline consump-
per volume
noted film actor Chill Wills. Wills writes tion, lodging meals, what to wear and
in a folksy manner, but you can tell he the best time of the year to make the
trips. A family can plan their trip and
really " d i g s " Roy's artistry. Roy and his determine the exact amount of time and
1974
etchings will be at the art show portion of money required.
Volume
the Death Valley '49er Encampment, Volume Number One covers 52 tours
throughout California s deserts, moun-
being held November 11-14. Let's all get tains, lakes and seashores. In Volume
together and help the '49ers celebrate Number Two, Slim and Henrietta explore
one of America's truly great festivals. Arizona, Nevada and Old Mexico,, with
the areas ranging from modern resorts
Mary Frances Strong searches for to ghost towns.
sagenite in the Owlshead Mountains this When ordering BE SURE to state Volume
Plus 75c Postage
month, and Harold O. Weight deals with One or Volume Two. Both books are large
format, heavy paperback with 150 pages.
one of the '49ers, William Rood and his
Death Valley wanderings. Howard Neal's $2.95 each
1975 "ghost" is Darwin, California, and Bill Please add 50c for postage/handling
Volume Jennings brings us up to date on the dirt Calif, residents add 6% sales tax
roads in Death Valley.
Order from
Frank Taylor has a tale about the late
Seldom Seen Slim of Ballarat fame, and
Magazine Book Shop
Joe Kraus' "$7,000 Before Breakfast" is P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
my idea of how to start your day.
Plus 75c Postage
Roger Mitchell takes us to the archeo- Lowest Photo Print Prices
logical ruins of Paquime, Mexico, and Highest Quality
Naturalist K. L. Boynton rounds out the KODACOLOR FILM
DEVELOPED & PRINTED
"Rain Barrel" issue with Eleodes Armata, that most in-
Standard 12 Jumbo Prints 2.18
Assorted Issues teresting desert stink bug. Standard 12 Jumbo Prints and
1959 to 1965 I would like to thank the many con- New Roll of KODACOLOR 3.34
cerned readers who wrote in to see how Kodacolor Neg. Standard reprints 15
we fared in the recent flash flood in Palm SENDFORPRICE SHEETS
& ENVELOPES. All Photo
Plus 75c Desert. We were most fortunate in es- Prices are Comparably low
Postage caping any problems in Riverside No gimmicks.
County's worst natural disaster which No lies.
Package of 20 More than 50 years of con-
caused an estimated $43 million damage. tinuous photo service guar-
antees your quality and our
integrity.
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Palm Desert, Calif.. 92260
Desert/November 1976
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at Christmas and your Treasure through all the Year Wishes for the Coming Year Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year etc."-Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
1270 "What can I give Him poor as I am?" May the 1203 Yucca Candles "...can make of this earth a 1351 Take Time to See Nature poem inside-May the 1247 "...The great joy that comes with Christmas,
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FETISHES and Carvings of the South-
Books for
west to his outstanding series.
Just what is a fetish? It is a very
special carving of animals or other living
Headers
tractive, are thought to bring good for-
tune such as freedom from disease,
flourishing crops, fertility, etc. Fetishes
are being found in archeological sites,
dating well over 1000 years, that equal or
All books reviewed are available
through the Desert Magazine Book surpass some of the best carvings being
Shop. Please add 50c per total
order for handling and California done today.
residents must include 6% state Although all the tribes make and use
sales tax.
them, the Zunis have become the most
skillful carvers and produce the most ap-
pealing figures on the market today. The
Navajos make their own fetishes, but will
also barter from the Zunis figures of
horses, cattle, sheep or goats in the be-
lief that these amulets will keep their
flock free from disease and insure
propagation.
Fetishes, amulets and talismans are
related objects and people seem to have
FETISHES different meanings for each, but the
and Carvings feeling and belief behind all of them is
of the Southwest related. Not only the Indians, but people
all over the world have made and used
By Oscar T. Branson fetishes since the beginning of time. The
belief in them, and the use of them is
Using the same beautiful all-color for- still very much alive.
mat as his TURQUOISE: The Gem of the Large format, 64-page, all-color,
Centuries, Mr. Branson has now added $7.95.
FLORA OF BAJA NORTE by Tina Kasbeer. The BEACHES OF BAJA by Walt Wheelock.
author is a botanist who spends all her free time Beaches on the Pacific side of Lower California
CLEARANCE SALE in Baja and writes in detail of the endemic plants
of the country. Describes the use of certain
are described by the veteran Baja explorer. Un-
like California beaches, they are still relatively
Now through Nov. 20 plants for medicinal purposes by the Indians and
residents. Paperback, illus. 36 pages, $1.00.
free of crowds. Paperback, illustrated, 72 pages,
$1.95.
ROCKS, MINERALS, LAPIDARY BAJA CALIFORNIA OVERLAND by L. Burr BYROADS OF BAJA by Walt Wheelock. In ad-
SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT Belden. Practical guide to Lower California as dition to describing the many highways now
far as La Paz by auto w i t h material gleaned from being paved, this veteran Baja explorer also tells
extensive study t r i p sponsored by U n i v e r s i t y of of back country roads leading to Indian ruins,
California. Includes things to see and accommo- missions and abandoned mines. Paperback, il-
Everything on hand over a year dations. Paperback, $1.95. lustrated, 72 pages, $1.95.
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Sagebrush has overgrown the main I RIZONA'S PUBLICITY people have be forgotten. Former inhabitants left
street of Stanton. Wooden walkways, ih long lured the multitudes to that fair only dreams and ambitions. Some left a
tested by Drew Cyprian, 1 1 state by enticing prospective visitors relative or two under the thick Arizona
has a few missing boards. with such names as the Grand Canyon, sod. For us, they left a few buildings,
It fronts Stanton's hotel. the Painted Desert and the Petrified nothing more, to mark their stay.
Forest. What they don't talk about all In Octave, Stanton and Weaver there
that much are the state's ghost towns. are no restaurants, motels, service sta-
Symbols of failure, man's greed and tions or gift shops. There are no
ruthlessness—certainly Arizona's ghost people—only a few weekend prospectors
towns are all that. But they are also the who attempt to rake from the land the
$7000
foundations of the state's history, brief yellow and silver ore that early-day
glimpses of a past now often clouded by miners left behind.
the fictional writings of modern-day It's all quite different from their hey-
novelists and playwrites. day when wagon trains, stagecoaches
Octave, Weaver and Stanton are three and buckboards filled the streets, when
Before
such ghost towns. They are located to- lone riders and circuit preachers sought
gether, litterly back to back, six miles by lodging for the night. And certainly it is
dirt road east of Congress and Highway much quieter now than in those days of
89. And if you appreciate the emptiness, constant gunplay, when the law was
the faded glories —everything a ghost much too far away to offer any
Breakfast!
town should —you'll appreciate these assistance.
towns that are no more. Weaver, for instance, was probably
Here, on most days, you can be alone. Yavapai County's toughest town. In its
Here you can sit on the sun-bleached early days, the town was so tough that
steps of the old Stanton Hotel and gaze lawmen made no attempt to track down
at a tumbleweed rolling down an empty outlaws inside its limits. Its reputation as
street. Only the wind will be heard as it a hangout for desperadoes had spread
byJOEKRAUS flaps ancient shutters and whistles throughout the territory so much so that
through empty hallways. Here there is only top hands with a gun dared enter.
peace, a special solitude that can never Nevertheless Weaver became so big that
Desert/November 1976
it was nominated to become the territor- Of the three towns, Stanton is the best camp. Probablv over stranger still is thi>
ial capital. When election time came preserved and probably the most inter- fact that the town was once owned by the
around, however, the town lost to Pres- esting. Here are the remains of the old magazine, The Saturday. Evening Post.
cott only because the men were too en- Stanton Hotel now ever much showing The magazine bought the town about 20
grossed with the saloons and dancehall signs of its years. You'll also find, direct- years ago with the thought of restoring
girls to take time out for voting. ly across the street, the old stage station the community to a mecca such as Vir-
Stanton, as far as rowdiness goes, and general store. Constructed of red ginia City, Nevada. This just didn't work
didn't perform much better. This town brick, it stands windowless and empty. out. So the Post people got together and
was especially known for its gunplay and Stage agent and former proprietor decided that what they would do with the
unfriendliness. The town's father, Barney Martin was run out of town and town was give it away. And that's just
Charles Stanton, for instance, was cer- later killed by none other than Charles what they did —in a jingle contest.
tainly no George Washington. Much dis- Stanton. Today, however, the allure of Stanton,
liked in the district for his treacherous Another interesting building in Stan- Weaver and Octave is not so much the
dealings, shootings and misappropria- ton is an early-day residence. Its crumb- number of buildings that remain —be-
tion of gambling dues, he also had quite ling walls, however, along with those of cause there aren't really that many. Nor
another reputation. It was said he had the Stanton Hotel, general store and do people come for all the gold that sup-
been expelled from a monastery on stage station awaits the encroachment of posedly the miners left behind. There
charges of immorality while studying for the ever-present desert environment. just isn't much of that either. Stanton,
the priesthood. But just as Stanton sent Further up the street, almost out of Weaver and Octabe should be visited for
many others before him to an early view, is a series of other early-day build- no other reason than the fact they are
grave, he, too, fell victim to this same ings. Preserved, they are now used as there. In a few years they may be gone
fate. He was shot and killed by a man dormitories for a youth camp. These altogether. Then all you will have will be
from Weaver who headed a gang of des- campers, when present, have a unique the Virginia Cities and Tombstones,
peradoes. experience of spending their nights in a gone so much by way of commercialism,
Less resourceful in shoot-em-up activ- well-preserved ghost town. Near these or the Old Tucsons and Apachelands,
ities was the town of Octave. Its people structures is the home of a caretaker built by movie-set carpenters, never
seemed much more concerned with the whose permission you need before enter- really towns to begin with.
gold that still remained in the foothills. ing the town. There is no comparing these with the
Stories were still circulating there of the It may be strange that this ghost town real ghosts, their emptiness, their faded
man who one morning stumbled upon a (or any ghost town for that matter) has, glories. They are the very fiber of our
deposit of gold and before breakfast in part, been turned into a summer historic past. •
picked up over $7,000 worth of the rich
metal. So, not only did the people of
Octave hang up their guns to handle
picks and shovels, but they seemed even
less concerned than were the inhabitants
of Weaver and Stanton in maintaining a
town. Thus, you won't find much of it
left.
You must get out of your car and scout
around to find anything of the town still
standing. Behind the rocks and the
sagebrush, however, you will find stone
foundations, cellar pits, remains of a
powder-house, a few fences and skeleton
door and window frames,
Weaver's remains are much more pre-
valent. Two almost complete str-uctures
line Weaver's main street. And here and
there you will discover the remains of
miners cabins. Over the rise you'll even
find the town's Boothill, telling, if
nothing else, how quick and final death
was in Weaver.
SEICIOIVI
stead, because most of the other occupa-
tions were obsolete by the time he was
born, Seldom Seen Slim, or Charles
Ferge became a prospector and eventu-
ally, a full time legend and desert rat.
The place he called home was once re-
ferred to as: "The suburbs of Hell,"
Desert/November 1976
wasn't much to talk about. After it who came to this remote outpost of civili- frequent visitors stnjwri to ^v \
stepped booming and started to decay, it zation to escape the prying eyes of law- but in its heyday, Ballarat was a hell-
was hardly fit for even the occasional men. raising gold camp whose reputation was
packrats that called it home, but that The only thing that seems certain was spread far and wide by its evil citizens.
seemed to be just the kind of place Ferge his arrival. Seldom Seen Slim didn't ar- Like its sister towns, Panamint and Pan-
liked. rive to become the caretaker over the amint City, Ballarat lived a wild and
In fact, Seldom Seen Slim liked the lo- next 50 years of a ghost town, but that is lusty life even though it was a short one.
cation so well he stayed there for more what happened to him. His "calling" as After his arrival, there wasn't much of a
than 50 years. The town was on its last a ghost town curator seemed to settle on spark of life. Yet, somehow, it clung to
legs in 1917 when Slim moved in. He was his thin shoulders like a mantle. At life, and Ferge managed to keep body
almost the last man then, and it remain- times, Slim, himself, seemed bewildered and soul together by prospecting in the
ed that way for decades. For nearly 35 by events. hills, or reworking old silver mine tail-
years, Slim was the sole resident. He On one of our frequent trips to see ings in the abandoned camps by
never complained about the lack of com- Slim, the author and his family sought Ballarat. As the decades wore on, Slim
pany, because for some reason, people out the scattered remnants of shade staked out several claims for himself, but
like Slim seem to prefer their own com- around his trailer while he explained most of them were informal. There
pany to anyone elses. how he discovered he was the last man in wasn't much need in going to the County
What supported him? A few people town. "One day I looked around and I Recorder's office and making things of-
guessed his discoveries in the Panamint realized I was the only one here—had ficial, hardly anyone even ventured into
Mountains, that are known to be rich in been for years. I decided then I was this part of the desert—so the danger of
silver ore, might have financed his living in a ghost town for sure." claim jumpers was slight.
meager existence. Others thought he Slim was surrounded by complete soli- Water became a problem. The original
might have been rich at one time and tude in his desert retreat except when in- site of the town was chosen because it
simply saved the money for better times.
It is doubtful if anyone really knew for
sure, because Slim was the kind of man
that kept his own counsel.
He didn't talk a lot, even when he was
surrounded by friends he liked. The
desert solitude must have made him lose
the urge to talk very much. It wasn't that
Slim didn't have a lot to say, he did. It
just didn't come out very often!
The early beginnings of Ferge were
his own well-kept secret. He had once
been to the huge San Fernando Valley
north of Los Angeles, but didn't go any
further toward the blossoming City of
Los Angeles than that. " I didn't like i t , "
he explained simply. He is known to Duffy
have been to Las Vegas at least once in Duffield
the pre-gambling days, but like Southern operated a
California, Slim didn't care much for the small store
place. and
Why he came to Ballarat is a mystery. museum at
When he first set foot in the town in Ballarat
1917, it still had a vew vestiges of its before
former glory. Founded in the 1890s when Slim's
gold was discovered nearby, the town death, and
took its name from an Australian gold would
camp. The town was made from adobe, regal
logs, lumber torn out of houses in nearby customers
Panamint City, and rocks —whatever by the
was handy and cheap. hours on
Most of the old wood buildings were the
still standing when Slim came down the exploits of
main drag, carrying all his earthly be- his desert
longings (so legend says) on a pack rat friend
burro. Some romantic accounts of Slim's across the
life claim he was a fugitive from the law "street."
Desert/November 1976 11
was possible to extract a brattoU, min-
Open 9-5 Mon. thru Sat. By the 1950s, Slim was hauling water
Located at Corner of in a junk automobile to his camp. Usually
Southwest 19. move with the sun all day long. When it
moves, I move with i t . "
While he was still able to travel, Slim
early day pictures of the Desert would venture out on foot, or in a car if
Southwest from 1862 to 1912. he had one, to check on the mining
5
*12 £ Please add 50c for postage
SEND CHECK OR
Printed on 80# coated stock.
9"x12" format. 185 pages
claims he had scattered around the
desert. Because he had been there so
long, Slim also knew where other pro-
MONEY ORDER TO: California residents please add 6% sales tax. ducing claims had been that the owners
12 Desert/November 1976
amounted to much.
The United States government estab-
lished the China Lake Naval Air Station
while sufficed. He didn't exactly reject
society, nor its comforts, it was just that
most of the time luxuries just seemed too
OASIS
CANTEENS
on the fringes of the desert near Slim, much trouble.
and started a regular program of aircraft One of his hundreds of friends gave
training flights. The old prospector was him a radio that worked on batteries, and
surprised to find a drone aircraft smash- that was a gift he treasured. Often at
ed into the earth of his mining claim. Un- night, strangers approaching the Ferge
familiar with the wonders of radio-con- trailer would hear the strains of classical
trolled flight, Slim spent several hours music pouring from the interior. There
looking for the pilot. were hardly ever any lights. Slim didn't
Unable to find one, he drove to the have electricity and a lamp using kero-
China Lake facility to report his demise. sene was too dangerous in the tiny con- for
Loaded into the back of his vehicle were fines, so he would go to sleep in the dark sportsman
listening to the thunder of the world's camper
several of the largest pieces of the drone.
great symphony orchestras. farmer i
The officials at the base were careful not rancher
to hurt the old man's feelings, and after When questioned about his seemingly logger
explaining no funeral would be neces- peculiar taste in music, Slim would just billy-
sary, offered to let him have the remains shrug, " I can't get the other stations." goats
of the drone as payment for his trouble. What he meant was this. At night, radio OASIS CANTEENS
"They told me to sell it for scrap if I stations with at least 50,000 watts of COME IN 4 SIZES, 4 STYLES
wanted t o , " he remembered in later power transmit great distances and in 6 Models From Which to Choose
a canteen to suit every need. Priced as low as
years, "so I hauled the whole thing to the desert it is possible to pick up KLS
$3.85
the junk yard and made some cash. That from Salt Lake City, or places like Okla- If not available at your local Sport-
ing Goods, Hardware or Depart-
was the most money I ever got out of that homa City or New Mexico. The station ment Stores write for FREE Catalog
and Mail Order Information.
claim, I think!" Slim seemed to get most frequently was
Another source of income for Slim was one that broadcast a heavy program of
rock samples. His intimate knowledge of classic music.
the local desert enabled him to gather in- But after almost 40 years of near isola-
teresting samples that rockhounds were tion, things began to change for Slim. To
willing to pay hard cash for. To Slim, this the south, Los Angeles became the hub
type of sample was worthless chaff, but of existence for hundreds of thousands of
if people would buy them, he was happy rockhounds, four-wheel-drive enthusi-
to oblige them. He certainly could never asts, motorcycle buffs and ghost town
have gotten rich, however, prices for his explorers. As the exodus of the previous
samples were flexible. A nickle, dime 60 years had brought a stampede of
oir once in a while "two-bits." When he gold-seekers to this nearly forgotten
was chided for selling his samples at corner of the desert, so the explosion of
such low prices, Slim would shrug his the 1950-60s brought an influx of city
shoulders and retort: "But I got them dwellers bent on learning more about the
free!" desert and like Seldom Seen Slim.
Certainly Slim was not greedy. Like Harry Oliver, himself a self-proclaim-
many other prospectors, the thrill was in ed "desert rat," was publishing a news-
looking for a rich strike, not in making paper called "The Desert Rats Scrap
one. He was far more content to have the Book (and that is the way he spelled it,
modern world beat a path to his door and too!), and he started to include sayings
visit, than he ever would have been to hit by Ferge. The scrapbook found its way
"pay d i r t " and retire to some luxury across the world, and into universities,
spa with his profits. Most of his life had colleges and the homes of the great and
been spent in the unsuccessful quest for mighty. The salty comments attributed
mineral wealth, and he resigned himself to Seldom Seen Slim kept people chuck-
to the fact he would never be rich some- ling and in the literary world, Ferge
time early in his career at Ballarat. became a minor celebrity.
KEENE ENGINEERING, Inc. Dept. D
Ferge was fortunate in this. He could This kind of publicity might have gone 9330 Corbin Avenue
Northridge, CA 91324
still chase rainbows and not suffer from to the head of a lesser man, but not Slim. • SendmeyourFREE1976Catalog
• Enclosed is $7.95. Send me your
the pangs of disappointment. This was He would snort at some of the things he 240 page "Dredging For Gold,"
one reason he needed very little money was supposed to have said in the Desert the book that tells everything
about underwater gold-dredging.
to get by on. A few groceries, tobacco for Rats Scrap Book, but he kept on reading (Calif, residents add 48c tax)
Name
his pipe, gas for his vehicle (if he had the little newspaper. As rockhounds,
Address
one running) and some clothes'once in a
Continued on Page 40 City State _ Zip
Desert/November 1976 13
7>tmL GHOSTS by HOWARD NEAL
Darwin, California
LOCATION: Darwin is located six miles famous silver lode had been found, and lost, by
from California Highway 190, southeast of Owens members of the Death Valley party of 1849.
Lake and the community of Keeler. Many had searched for the Lost Gunsight,
including Doctor Darwin French who, in 1860, had
BRIEF HISTORY: In the summer of the led a group of prospectors and explorers across the
year 1876, the silver camp of Darwin reached its zen- Coso, Argus and Panamint Mountains to Death
ith. Rich ore deposits were being mined, five fur- Valley. The French party discovered gold at Coso,
naces were operating and the population of the town seven miles south of the site of Darwin, but the Gun-
had passed the one thousand mark. sight silver eluded them.
The word was out. People throughout the The Darwin silver also eluded them. But,
desert mining country were speculating that the when it was discovered, the district was named in
fabulous Lost Gunsight had been discovered. That honor of Doctor French.
#
'' v*
Y
KtCP OUT
^
TAG
14 Desert/November 1976
Silver was discovered on Mount Ophir in
October of 1874. The relative proximity of the strike
to Panamint City and Cerro Gordo caused an imme-
diate rush. By the time 1875 drew to a close, Darwin
boasted more than 200 permanent structures and
near 1,000 citizens. The Defiance, and the other
smelters, worked night and day. Several times a day,
freight wagons loaded with silver bullion left Darwin.
At night, the Centennial and 14 other saloons rollick-
ed with the laughter of the miners and the saloon
girls. Darwin was booming.
The boom at Darwin was quick. It took less
than two years for the mining district to reach its
peak. Starting in August of 1876, when the smelters
started closing, the road for Darwin was down. Just
as Darwin had drawn its population from Cerro
Gordo and Panamint, so did Bodie and Mammoth
City draw their citizens, in part, from Darwin. The
final blow came in 1878 when a labor disagreement
turned into a small shooting war and Darwin was
moved quickly along the path toward becoming an-
other desert ghost.
Above: The
homes of
Darwin's few
citizens are
interspersed with
many ruins that
remind the
visitor of a
bygone era.
Right: At the
entrance to the
town of Darwin,
a bridge,
carrying a pipe
from a nearby
smelter, crosses
the main road.
Left: "Private
Property—Keep
Out" signs
forbid the
exploration of the
mine buildings.
Photographs by
Howard Neal.
Travel
appearing soft sand patch perhaps or traveler are available at Furnace Creek
perhaps not leavened by a thin film of and the Grapevine, Emigrant and Wild-
equally deceptive water. Broken springs, rose ranger stations. Ask the ranger. He
bent wheels and up-to-the-frame miring would rather answer your questions in
in quicksand are among the cheaper les- advance than launch a search and winch
sons—and very few tow trucks venture party after the fact.
into the outback to retrieve you. Be reminded that the road map is con-
So it was with great pleasure that a stantly changed, not so much by motor
new National Park Service-inspired pub- grader but the whimsical actions of Ma
lication titled " D i r t Road Travel and Nature. The original Women's Libber
Back Country Camping in Death Valley has been known to destroy hundred-
Death
National Monument" wandered into year-old roads in five minutes with flash
view. It was printed last April as part of flooding, to sand them into oblivion with
the current Death Valley Natural History a week-long windstorm or crack, crunch
Association tourist package. Just in time or cover them with a 4.5 Richter Scale
for the current 27th Annual Death Valley temblor. Inquire before you venture
National Encampment. forth.
It is basically a complete off-highway What follows is one writer's version of
road and trail guide, a complete monu- a backcountry tour guide that may bore
ment map on one side with descriptions the intrepid or awe the first-timer. In
of routes, campsites, mileages and other either case, you may wish to compile
data on the reverse. your own or pass it over in favor of the
The first warning comes as you unfold Authors Breakfast.
the map. There is no such thing as off- All have been driven, if not by the
road travel in Death Valley and only ve- author recently, at least by someone
hicles with valid state license plates will possessed of a vehicle with ample power,
be allowed anywhere on the network of usually to all four wheels, or with a high
paved, graded and non-maintained center that the Death Valley tracks do
roads within the 3,000-square-mile na- little more than brush. Some can be
tional reserve. No "greenies" or off-road tional Monument are hidden hundreds of driven in an hour; others may take a half
registration stickers and no under-age canyons, complete with old mines, town- day, if you don't care much about scen-
unlicensed drivers are allowed. sites, natural wonders by the score, ery, geology or human history. Still
A list of 14 monument off-highway ranging from tiny permanent streams to others will be savored at leisure because
roads for either four-wheel-drive or high huge, variegated rock formations that overnight camping in Death Valley is en-
center utility vehicles included with the will fill your color camera lens. There are couraged off-highway with the obser-
map compares favorably with a compila- forgotten but still discernible trails into vance of a few, simple and understand-
tion of 15 tours, ranging from a few history, remote outposts where wildlife able rules.
hours to a few days, written by Roger roam unmolested. More than desert, None of these trips are intended for
Mitchell. His article appeared in the the monument is a slice of the Southwest the freeway freighter or the timid. All
November, 1969 issue of Desert Maga- generally open and available to the off- are designed as a challenge of your skills
zine. highway motorist and hiker. with steering wheel and clutch, or the
Assuming you may tire of the organ- A warning, however, that backcountry P-R-N-D(1-2-3) stick that subs for a gear-
ized activities, or if you just want to get roads are loosely defined, depending on shift in most vehicles today.
away for an hour or three days, this re- whose map you read, ranging from in- Local inquiry is mandatory in the
port is for you. credibly bad Baja-style tracks that cause Death Valley monument. All off-highway
In the vastness of Death Valley Na- even hardened Jeepers to blanch, their tours require a Back Country Check I n /
16 Desert/November 1976
In order to protect areas
such as these mud-caked
dunes near Stovepipe Wells,
no off-road travel is permitted
within the Death Valley National
Monument. Photo by James Randkiev,
Los Angeles, California.
as the park service permits road travel.
Heed the signs and stay on the designat-
ed route, which is primarily a four-
wheel-drive trail.
Grotto Canyon. This is the shortest of
the suggested 49er routes, only IV2
miles from sea level near Stovepipe
Wells up 500 feet into a geologically-re-
warding view site. No camping is per-
mitted at road's end but it's a short run
back to Stovepipe Wells or Furnace
Creek area campgrounds. Several easy
foot trails into eroded and colorful side
canyons reward the vigorous. Warning!
The road is not suited for lowslung cars.
The sand dune area and famous Salt
Creek are nearby.
Lemoigne Canyon. Sometimes almost
forgotten in the rich history of the Death
Valley region is the story of Jean (Cap)
Lemoigne whose old stone cabin marks
the site of a silver mining venture of
nearly a century ago. The nine-mile trip
begins from California 190 about six
Getting above the valley floor affords dramatic and panoramic views such as this. miles southwest of Stovepipe Wells Vil-
lage and is hardly suited for anything but
Out form at the visitor center or any history Portions of the mine works and four-wheel-drive. In seven miles you
ranger station before and after a hike or the remnants of a huge 20-stamp mill climb 4,000 feet. Camping is permitted
solo four-wheel-drive trip. Camping re- mark the site. The area is near the dis- FULL-DAY TRIPS
strictions will be explained at the same tinctive Chloride Cliff, the destination Echo Canyon. This familiar and con-
time. You'll be pleasantly surprised at for another short trip, described below. tinually popular off-highway trip starts
the minimum of no-no requirements the Chloride cliff. An old mining camp and from California 190 at the Travertine
National Park Service has imposed. a geologically interesting area in the Springs cluster four miles southeast of
With the exceptions spelled out below, Funeral Mountains off the Daylight Pass Furnace Creek. The springs mark the
most of these trips do not entail camping Highway some three miles east of Hells first known water site for the 1849 wagon
restrictions. Suggested maps include the Gate, one of the most distinctive natural trains as they reached Death Valley from
monument off-highway model plus the entrances to Death Valley, from the the Amargosa Desert to the east. The
"Guide to Death Valley" issued regular- northeastern or Nevada side. Mileage sandy and rocky canyon trail can be tra-
ly by the Automobile Club of Southern from Furnace Creek is 26. A park service versed all the way to Nevada State Route
California. Topographic maps of the sign at the turnoff shows the way to the 29, midway between Death Valley Junc-
monument area in both the 7Vi and cliff, a landmark for 49ers and other tion and Lathrop Wells, along the
15-minute scales are produced by the early Death Valley travelers. Another 1907-1918 right-of-way of the Las Vegas
U.S. Geologic Survey and available at longer, but better road reaches the area and Tonopah Railway. Many of the ties
Death Valley sites as well as selected from U.S. 95, about six miles south of from this ill-fated line still remain at
shops throughout Southern California. Beatty, Nevada. The cliff is a photo- Scotty's Castle where Walter Scott
The Auto Club's maps for Inyo and San graphic landmark as well, especially for planned their use as fence posts. Dis-
Bernardino counties also are useful. the color fan. tance from Traventine Springs to the
HALF-DAY TRIPS Hole in the Wall. The closest site to highway is 30 miles. Midway through
Keane Wonder Mine. Just four miles Furnace Creek and the 49ers activities, the canyon is the site of Schwab, one of
up in the Funeral Mountains from the therefore probably the busiest of these the early mining camps. Elevation at the
Daylight Pass Highway, six miles from suggested trips. This scenic area is a canyon head is 5,000 feet.
the junction with California 190, or a prime geologic study site, a notch eroded Wingate Wash. It's a long way from
total of 18 miles from Furnace Creek, by wind and water action through a monument headquarters at Furnace
which will be the starting place for all 200-foot rock wall. Take California 190 Creek to the mouth of Warm Springs
these trips. There is no camping permit- from Furnace Creek eastward toward Canyon, the jumping off place for histor-
ted either along the road or at the mine Death Valley Junction, five miles above ic Wingate Wash, route of the 20-mule
and mill site—no problem because of the the main north-south or Badwater Road team borax freighters from Death Valley
short distances involved. The mine dates junction. If your vehicle is stout enough to the railhead at Mojave. By way of the
to a 1903 discovery by Jack Keane, one you may drive about eight miles from the paved Badwater road it's nearly 46 miles
of the vivid figures in Death Valley highway to Red Amphitheater, or as far and over 38 miles via the graded but
sometimes washboard West Side Road.
It's worth the trip to re-create a part of
the mule team saga. Only the lower 16
miles of the wash are open to travel, be-
low the monument-Naval Weapons Cen-
ter boundary. There are plenty of sandy
and sometimes windswept camping sites
in Wingate, but no reliable water.
Butte Valley-Goler Wash. One of the
longest and most rewarding trips in
Death Valley, primarily a Jeep road but
open at the lower (east) end to high-cen-
ter vehicles as well. Entry is via Warm
Springs Canyon, the same front door as
used by Wingate Wash travelers. Bear An early
right at about three to 3Vi miles west of day mining
the West Side Road where the Wingate road looks
tracks trail off to the left. Soon you will out on the
be in some of the most recently active desolate
mining area of the monument. Still- salt flats in
worked talc mines give way to the huge Death
basin known as Butte Valley, with Strip- Valley
ed Butte as its distinctive landmark. National
Some 15 miles west of the Wingate junc- Monument.
tion water may be found at Anvil Spring, Many feet
sometimes, but it's a good idea here, as below sea
everywhere in the monument, to carry level, the
your own supply, about a gallon a day valley
per person. The track tops out near Anvil offers ideal
at the ridge of the Panamint range and climate for
the careful J eeper can pick his way down winter
to the old Panamint Valley Road through holidays.
Coler Wash. Be warned, the valley road
deadends at the weapons center boun- mint divide some 12 miles to Panamint mile trip to Phinney Canyon from U.S.
dary about five miles south of the Goler City where the eager miners quickly 95, but well worth the two-day estimated
Wash exit. The only way home is in re- parted with their hard-earned silver for travel and visiting time needed to really
verse or north along the Panamint route. some green fare. After the boom faded, see the area. Grapevine, at 8738 feet the
If you get this far you may consider this the farmers departed and an almost leg- northeast guardian of Death Valley, is
trip a two-nighter! endary Shoshone Indian, Hungry Bill, like its southwestern " t w i n , " Telescope
Johnson Canyon. Twenty miles south homesteaded their rocky acres. Today Peak, frequently snow covered in winter.
of the Badwater junction on the West the meager remnants of rock walls and Hunter Mountain. Hidden away in the
Side Road is the signed entrance to some fruit trees mark the site. remote northwestern corner of the mon-
Johnson Canyon. This is also the gate- Phinney Canyon. The highest eleva- ument near the famous Racetrack are a
way to Hungry Bill's homestead high on tion reached by a Jeep road in the monu- number of old diggings and abandoned
the east slopes of Telescope Peak. No ment touches 7500 feet on the east slope camps. The Jeep track from Teakettle
route for the faint-hearted or those un- of Grapevine Peak, a distinctive marker Junction, between Ubehebe Crater and
willing to walk, this trip offers a glimpse along the California-Nevada border west the Racetrack, reached the site of Gold-
into history as well as a portage across of Beatty. Several four-wheel-drive trails belt and the north escarpment of Hunter
the Panamints to Panamint City if you're crisscross the Phinney Canyon area, Mountain, 7280 feet, before it turns into
game. The canyon road proceeds about which also can be reached, almost, by a a high-center road outside the monu-
nine miles to a sometimes good spring rough high-center route from U.S. 95 ment and drops to California 190 near
and cottonwood grove, a fine camping just south of Beatty. This is one of the Darwin, only about 36 miles east of civili-
site and the jumping-off place for the few areas in or near the monument zation at Lone Pine in Owens Valley.
trail to Hungry Bill's homestead and the where the distinctive pinyon-juniper Fine stands of pinyon and juniper
Panamint highlands. In the 1870s, a plant association is accessible. Camp- abound on this remote route.
group of European immigrants, report- sites abound in the coniferous trees but This listing has not attempted to in-
edly Swiss, settled- in the upper canyon water is elusive, so bring your own. One clude all the popular and not-so-known
along the permanent stream and planted roundabout approach is via Rhyolite, the off-highway routes within the monu-
vegetables and fruit trees. They back- undying "ghost" town of the Bullfrog ment. It's just a teaser for those who
packed their produce across the Pana- mining district west of Beatty. It's a 20- have time to find more! •
Sagenite in the
r OR OVER three decades, hardy rock
collectors have journeyed into Cali-
fornia's Owlshead Mountains, west
of Death Valley, in search of sagenite
agate. Yet, the region shows little evi-
Tuesday, they had planned to pull out on
Friday but the cars could not negotiate
the grade. They had elected to sit tight in
the hope someone would come in during
the weekend. When I showed up late
lay station on one of the higher peaks in
the Owlshead Mountains. There are
many such stations across the desert and
consequent improved access roads have
been a " b o o n " for recreationists. Trail-
dence of their presence except for a few Monday, they were getting desperate ers and motorhomes can be taken into
shallow diggings and a faint trail to the since their food and water were nearly Sagenite Canyon —just drive carefully.
top of a barren peak. The once rugged, gone. We quickly chained each car to my Good cutting material, particularly
16-mile road, the steep hike and hard- four-wheel-drive and the extra power types from which unusually-patterned
rock mining were not for those who pre- brought them up and out in a few cabochons may be cut, is always in de-
ferred "easy collecting." It was only the minutes. mand. Sagenite agate falls into this cate-
dedicated lapidary enthusiast, seeking It is at such times a CB mobil radio gory and areas where it may be collected
elusive and beautiful sagenite, who felt could bring much needed help. When are not common. Generally speaking,
the effort was worthwhile. stranded in a deep canyon, it might be when inclusions in agate or chalcedony
There is still good sagenite agate to be necessary to remove radio, aerial and are acicular, the material is called sagen-
found, but the steep climb and hardrock battery; then transport them to the top of ite agate. The term sagenite is derived
mining remain the requirements for suc- a high hill in order to make a successful from a Greek word meaning " n e t " —re-
cess. However, a good, graded road now contact by radio. I am not implying this ferring to the pattern often formed by in-
replaces the former "helluva set of dirt would be a simple matter but, in an clusions. However, patterns vary and
tracks." I can vouch for the latter—hav- emergency, it could be done. sometimes are so dense the host mater-
ing first driven the route 23 years ago Sagenite Canyon is a deep, flat-bot- ial appears opaque.
and several times since. This "killer" of tomed, T-shaped recess in the southeast- Dana tells us the "inclusions have
stock cars included a short section of ern flank of the Owlshead Mountains. formed by precipitation of material that
road which dropped into the canyon. It This is flash-flood country and it is evi- diffused into a mass of gelatinous silica
didn't appear to harbor a problem when dent that numerous torrents of gravel- before it crystallized into chalcedony." A
driving in; but, driving out was another laden waters have been responsible for variety of minerals can form the needle-
matter. Many cars couldn't make it and carving the canyon. This process still like growths, including rutile, black tour-
several people were forced to make long goes on today and it is not a place to be maline, actinolite, goethite, stibnite,
hikes in order to obtain help. camped during summer thunder-shower hornblende, as well as zeolites and other
On one of my trips, I found four col- activity. fibrous hydrous silicates. The Owlshead
lectors and two cars who had been there The graded road we enjoy today is due deposits include golden, white, black
for three unscheduled days. Arriving on to the establishment of a microwave re- and some lavender sagenite. The colors
photos
by Jerry Strong
Sagenite
provides a sheltered,
almost level camping
area with "diggings"
on both sides.
The arrow [top right]
indicates diggings
where golden and
lavender sagenite
plus nodules and
geodes have
been found.
indicate small but varying amounts of Sagenite Canyon is well off the beaten
iron and manganese were probably pre- path and does not make a good weekend
sent in the original gel. trip. You will need at least two full days
Sagenite Canyon has a picturesque for collecting —preferably more—if you
setting and provides some fairly level really want to obtain choice material.
campsites. Several diggings will be seen Success comes by getting acquainted
on both sides of the canyon —within easy with the sites and several days of
walking distance. You will need a pick, digging.
bar and shovel for collecting. Approaching from the south, Baker, at
The most sought after material occurs the junction of Interstate 15 and High-
at the top of a peak where golden and way 127, is the last chance for gasoline
lavender sagenite may be dug. The latter and supplies. From the north, Shoshone
is not plentiful —in fact, almost rare. would be the last fillup and supply point.
Some nice agate nodules and geodes are Be sure to have ample water along and
also to be found. Again, it is hardrock be prepared for hot or cold weather. We
mining after a "stretch of the legs." have been there in November when tem-
Take along your lunch and water. Even peratures soared to 90 degrees —while a
enthusiastic diggers are not anxious to subsequent Thanksgiving presented us
make the climb twice in one day. with almost freezing temps, in company
The trail is hard to see as only upper with strong winds.
sections of it, in the darker areas, are From Baker, California, drive north on
visible from the road. A short distance Highway 127 approximately 30 miles to
north of a white highway marker (see Saratoga Springs Road. It joins the
map), hike east and follow the ravine up highway on the left (west), is signed and
to where the trail is distinguishable on
the slopes. Numerous diggings will be
encountered near the top and around on In Sagenite Canyon, jerry Strong
the opposite side. You can start your own attacks one of the diggings
or clean out an old diggings to find the and collected a few small,
"goodies" someone left behind. but colorful specimens.
oasis and seemed to almost revere the
site. They came —absorbed the peace
and beauty—then left, generally leaving
only their tire tracks behind.
In the fall of 1973, several of our
readers wrote to tell me these old and
glorious trees, and the habitat they pro-
vided, had been destroyed—but not by
vandalism. Camping was now prohibit-
ed. It seems "the powers that be" decid-
ed these great trees and the people who
loved the area were threatening a pris-
tine environment. There were rare pup-
fish in one of the springs. People
might—after hundreds of years, finally
cause their demise. The trees which had
protected the area might now become
their enemies. I cannot rationalize, much
less accept, the reasons given for de-
stroying Nature's beauty and sacrificing
a wildlife habitat which had lived in har-
mony with the pupfish for two centuries.
Little remains at the New Deal Manganese Mine near Owl Hole Spring except this
sturdy dugout and numerous dumps. Saratoga Springs has been a refuge for
man since prehistoric time. Nearby pe-
a historical monument aids as a marker. birds. Until a few years ago, Saratoga troglyphs indicate use by Indians long
Turn left and follow the graded, wash- Springs was a welcome haven for travel- before the coming of white men. It
board road northwesterly. ers heading into Death Valley from the served the earliest explorers, as well as
Six miles west of the highway, you will south. A small, unimproved campground the emigrants who later followed the Salt
pass a side road leading to Saratoga provided an overnight resting area. Lake Trail. Prospectors, too, found the
Springs—one of the desert's important People came to see the springs and springs a refreshing stop enroute to or
historical waterholes. Snuggled against wildlife. They marveled at the height, from mining camps in the Death Valley-
the black and green Ibex Hills, the breadth and beauty of a stand of Athel Tecopa region.
springs have formed a lake and marsh trees. Just one of their spreading Continuing northwesterly, the road
habitat which supports migratory water- branches could have easily shaded a enters Death Valley National Monument
fowl and a surprising number of other small house. Desert lovers enjoyed this and reaches a road junction in another
5.3 miles of travel. Two signs on the
At the top of the steep hill, Gerald Backus contemplates where to dig. He chose
right proclaim "Rough Road" —"Fur-
wisely and found some beautiful sagenite agate. This was during the author's first
nace Creek, 63 miles." Keep left. You
trip in 1953. Photo by Mary Frances Strong.
will now be traveling along one of the
early routes which connected Death Val-
ley with Searles Valley and mining areas
in the Western Mojave Desert. Unfor-
tunately, a large section of the old road is
now within military reservations and
cannot be explored.
A little over 10 miles from the Road Y
lies Owl Hole Spring and the former mill
site of the New Deal Mine. Known on the
early road as "Owl Holes," water seeps
from alluvium in Owl Hole Wash and
"ponds u p " in two elongated, saucer-
like basins. During mining days, a well
was dug to provide a larger amount of
water for mill use. Dikes have been built
to protect the spring from being buried
by flash-floods. Tamarisks line the sides
of the ponds and form a little oasis in a
harsh, almost barren land.
The New Deal Manganese Mine lies
idle now, but was once the largest pro-
SarafoeoZ. H I L L S O
Sfirs. Ca - **
ducer in San Bernardino County. First west of the spring and has been idle leading into Sagenite Canyon should be
tonnage was mined during World War I. since 1950. All equipment and buildings on your left. Turn left and select a good
The second World War again made man- have been removed. Only numerous campsite.
ganese in great demand and a 35-ton dumps, pits and adits, plus one well- Sagenite Canyon has lost its isolation.
mill was erected near the spring. Ore built dugout remain. At the springs, the No longer is it for four-wheel-drive only.
was broken to minus 3/8 inches by jaw- mill's piers and a few cement founda- Heavy thundershowers can deteriorate
crusher and rollers. It was then ground tions are the remnants of former busy the road so always proceed with caution.
to 48 mesh in a rod mill, concentrated on mining days. November through April are the most
four tables, then sintered to a grade of 50 From Owl Hole Spring, continue pleasant months for collecting. Allow
percent manganese. The ore was hauled southwesterly about a mile where a sign yourself ample time to explore and get
to Riggs Siding on the now abandoned states "Fort Irwin Road, No Trespas- acquainted with the locale. A well-
Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad —45 sing, etc." Keep right and follow the planned attack on your objective will
miles southeast. graded road 4.9 miles. At this point, you bring a reward of beautiful sagenite from
The mine is a mile and a half north- will be in a deep canyon and dirt tracks the Owlshead Mountains. •
Tun §>pot
Go high, go low, Lone Pine California
is the gateway to it all!
High Sierra's Mt. Whitney elevation: 14,495 ft. Try us!
You'll be glad you did.
V>" "s^
Desert
Wayfarer
by CHILL WILLS
Above:
"On the Mormon Trail"
etching,
10"X10".
Left:
"Over the Hill'
etching,
Right:
"The
Old
Miller
Place"
etching,
14"x24".
give us a welcome that'd have done deeper so that the plate will give a a very heavy and expensive 100% rag-
credits to the folks back home! sharper impression when printed. paper that will last for generations as
Red-headed, with a "plentiful" of He soaks the paper used in his long as it is not mistreated or backed
freckles dottin' his grinnin' face (re- etchin's in water before printin'. This is Continued on Page 46
mindin' me of an ol' boy back home
that got a bucket-full o' bran kicked in
his face one cold winter mornin' when he
was milkin' an ol' cow and grabbed her
milk-faucets with a pair o' cold hands)
Roy stands 'bout six-two and would
"dress-out" close to 170 on a good day.
Soft-spoken, polite of speech and
manner, he shows that his folks knew
how to "bring him up right." Real
proud-like, he introduced us to his wife
and four youngin's. It was plain that Roy
Purcell is a "family man."
Roy Purcell's roots are deep—as a re-
sult his art is straight and true, givin'
always a down-to-earth portrayal o' the
desert and West he loves so well!
Purcell took me out to his studio and I
watched and listened while he explained
how he works —and first off I learned
that he works backward; but I'll explain
all that later.
Generally he etches on plates o' cop-
per-alloy, which he coats with asphalt to
make a better workin' background.
Then, usin' one o' his wife's sewing
needles stuck in a stick (like a pen-point
in a pen-holder) he looks at the pictures
he has selected and starts scratchin' Right:
(drawin') on the plate. When the drawin' "The
is all done he puts the plate in a solution Reading
to remove the asphalt. Next step, he dips Room"
the plate in a special acid which eats into etching,
every scratch he has made, diggin' it 5"x7".
Desert/November 1976 zr
by HAROLD O. WEIGHT
B
ILL ROOD was one of the lost emi- Bones of slaughtered oxen. Goods and one of prayer, despair, and the hoarding
grants of 1849 who trapped them- family treasures scattered and broken. of remaining strength for an almost
selves, in Death Valley and gave the Deep-cut wheel ruts in the salt and al- hopeless ordeal ahead. But at that very
place its sinister name and reputation. kali. And the wrecks of abandoned time, Bill was expending considerable
But Bill is the only one among them wagons, pinpointing key encampments. energy and time in carving name and
known to have left a record of his pre- That is about all. date on a big boulder on the bajada be-
sence there. Except for Bill Rood's rocks. tween the Panamint and Cottonwood
Little physical evidence of the passage The general mood of the emigrants, mountains: " W . B. Rood 1849." He also
of the Fortyniners ever existed in Death when the necessity for abandoning their managed, somehow, sometime, to
Valley. Ashes of vanished campfires. wagons became clear, is remembered as scratch " W . B. R. 1849" on another rock
Rood's initials
near Jayhawker Spring
led to an official
revision of the route
of j ayhawkers
through the Panamint
Mountains.
[ The inscription is
not chalked.]
hardly have wandered that far in quest of
some special rock autograph. Logically
he must have cut his name there while
on a scout out from Salt Spring, probably
when an overnight camp offered free
time.
This inscription has been known since
the early 1880s, and was accepted simply
as evidence Bill Rood had been there.
But when the rock inscribed " W . B. R.
1849" was discovered in 1936, it altered
Death Valley history. That summer
Indian Tom Wilson guided "Rocky"
Cochran and Farland Wells, from Wild-
rose Conservation Camp, to a tiny seep
in a small canyon west of Emigrant
Canyon. On boulders near the spring
they discovered Indian petroglyphs and
the names, initials and dates of some
Looking across early Death Valley visitors. Most were of
Emigrant wash members of Darwin French's 1860 Lost
from the bajada Cunsight mine expedition. But there
where Rood also was Jayhawker Rood.
inscribed his A few days later the inscriptions were
name and photographed and studied by Death
"1849." The Valley National Monument Superinten-
mouth of dent T. Ray Goodwin and Naturalist
Emigrant Donald Curry. Soon the seep became
Canyon shows "Jayhawker Spring" and the canyon
clearly, upper "Jayhawker Canyon."
center. Panamint For many years the route of the Jay-
Mountains in hawkers out of Death Valley had been
background. generally agreed upon: From Salt Spring
to a dry camp near present Stovepipe
mates were scouts, and Bill's nature and ed their wagons, and started their epic •Wells Village, then up Emigrant Wash
iibilities make it almost inevitable that he walk out of the desert. and Emigrant Canyon to Harrisburg
was too. These scouts guided the Jay- That desperate journey, from Death Flats, at the head of Emigrant. Here the
hawker wagons, by smoke signals, to Valley to Rancho San Francisquito, near second night's dry camp was made—
their first Death Valley camp, at Traver- present Newhall, took more than a where a snow fall furnished abundant
tine Springs, near the mouth of Furnace month. Rood traveled with his Knoxville
Creek Canyon. Jayhawker Sheldon and Galesburg friends, with Ed Doty
Young, in his terse log, gives the date as as their leader, and he was one of the
December 22, 1849. few who did not discard their guns as too
On December 24, the Jayhawkers at- heavy to carry. With Doty and Thomas
tempted a direct crossing of Death Val- Shannon, he hunted along their route for
ley with their wagons. Marshes and salt food for the starving emigrants. The
beds turned them back to the eastern deer, wild horses and cattle the three
side. Continuing northwest, they first killed in the last days of the trek may
reached Salt Creek and then Salt well have kept some of their comrades
Spring, now known as Jayhawker Well. alive.
Here, about seven air miles due east of Rood's inscription on the Cottonwood
present Stovepipe Wells Village, they mountains bajada is a long way from any
camped on December 26. There was escape route historians have plotted for
grass and water—of a sort. the Jayhawkers. On that final exodus,
From Salt Spring the scouts went out loaded with all he could carry, he would
again, seeking a route wagons could fol-
low. None was found. December 30— Huge boulder near Jayhawker Spring,
again by Young's log—the Jayhawkers on which a number of early
and those who traveled with them Death Valley visitors ^*
packed what they could carry, abandon- cut their names, initials and dates.
30 D6S8rt/Mn»omh«- m m
water. From the flats, the supposed grant Canyon, which has been a main
route was through Emigrant Pass and thoroughfare through the Panamints
down lower Wildrose Canyon to Pana- from Indian trail to paved highway. They
imint Valley. failed to discover that Jayhawker Canyon
Now Rood's initials suddenly became led nowhere. They failed to find that the
the "long-sought proof" that the emi- main wash into which both Emigrant and
grants actually had followed narrow Jay- Jayhawker drain would take them up to
hawker Canyon instead of Emigrant. To Towne Pass—the other highway route
reconcile the new route with reliable tes- through the Panamints.
timony that the second night's camp had And it assumes that although scouts
been on Harrisburg Flats, it was de- went out ahead when the Jayhawkers
duced the Jayhawkers had gone up-can- traveled through difficult country —both
yon from Jayhawker Spring, crossed a before and after Death Valley—in
ridge, descended into Emigrant Canyon, leaving the Valley the emigrants trusted
then followed it up to the summit. to luck, blindly entering a narrow, un-
Why had weary travelers taken this known side canyon on the chance it
longer, roundabout, more difficult course might lead them somewhere.
instead of going directly up Emigrant We know the scouts went out from Salt
Canyon? Answer: From the slope the Spring, and that Rood went at least as
Jayhawkers were climbing out of Death far as his inscribed rock on the bajada—
Valley, the mouth of Emigrant was and that is as distant as the mouths of
"blind and well-nigh undiscoverable." Emigrant and Jayhawker canyons. And I William B. Rood, Death Valley Forty-
They simply had missed it! can testify that from Rood's rock the en- niner, who left his name and initials in
I once subscribed to the revised Jay- trance to that "well-nigh undiscover- Death Valley in 1849. Portrait taken after
hawker route, supposing its premises able" Emigrant Canyon—with its white he had been several years in the West.
had been tested. But after years of trac- outwash of flood-carried debris —is Photo courtesy Huntington Library, San
ing out Bill Rood's wanderings, visiting clearly and unmistakably visible. Rood Marino, California.
his inscribed rocks, and finally hiking had to know a canyon was there.
(and scrambling) that stretch between If the Fortyniners chose Jayhawker dino, California, prospector and lost
upper Jayhawker and upper Emigrant Canyon for any reason, it was a sorry mine hunter, came upon Rood in Hermo-
canyons, it became obvious they had not. choice. Beyond Jayhawker Spring, where sillo, Sonora, in 1858. Rood, he said, was
The whole Jayhawker Canyon thesis the canyon narrows and becomes a broke and hungry after a $3000 good-
really rests on unreasonable assump- gulch, you can indeed climb a low ridge time spree. McCoy came to the rescue.
tions, the most fantastic being that those and look down into Emigrant Canyon. A They may have discussed the Lost Gun-
experienced Jayhawker scouts —al- long, steep way down. I followed a wild sight silver then, but it was not until
though knowing their own lives might burro trail down that angle-of-repose 1863 that McCoy came to Rancho de los
depend on it —did no scouting at all slope, and found that even those sure- Yumas to induce Bill to go with him to
while the main body waited trustingly at footed mountaineers had worked a Death Valley.
Salt Springs. They failed to find Emi- switchback into the steepest pitch. Rood was willing, but deeply involved
Slipping and sliding to the bottom, it was in his rancho, a meat market in La Paz,
difficult to picture exhausted emigrants and other activities. Not until 1869 did he
and their half-dead oxen descending arrive in San Bernardino—to find McCoy
without accident. committed to a freighting contract.
The case for this route would be much McCoy drafted his brother-in-law,
stronger if, as some Death Valley writers George Miller, as a substitute—a for-
have declared, there are names, initials tunate choice for us. Miller authored a
and dates of other Fortyniners on the detailed account of the expedition which
rocks at Jayhawker Spring. But no re- was published in the 1919 Annual of the
searcher has identified any, and I found Historical Society of Southern California.
none. Among the inscriptions of later Leaving San Bernardino in April with
visitors, Rood's dated and initialed rock horses and pack train, Rood, Miller,
stand alone—proof not of a Jayhawker Eugene Lander and Paul Van Curen
travel route, but only that Bill Rood once went from Granite Spring through the
was there, possibly scouting and alone. Slate Range, up Panamint Valley and
Few Fortyniners after their escape then up Wildrose Canyon to Emigrant
ever came back to Death Valley. Rood, Pass and what Rood called Summit
urged by W. W. McCoy, returned in Camp. This, he told Miller, was the
1869 in quest of lost silver that emigrants second camp made by the emigrants
crossing the Panamints in 1849 had after leaving Salt Spring, and the last
found. McCoy, noted early San Bernar- Continued on Page 38
O
NE OF the most unlikely of all char-
acters to be dwelling in the desert is
Eleodes, the big, black beetle. Yet,
there he is, trudging about the scenery
and making a very good living indeed.
His very color is a drawback, since
black absorbs heat. To make matters
worse, he is flightless. Unable to zoom
Circus Beetle,
head-standing
rules. Besides being a darkling beetle of performance by
sorts, Eleodes is also known as the pina- the Circus Beetle
cate (pin-ah-cah-te) bug, from a good old is not for
Spanish word derived from his habit applause and is
upon occasion of elevating his rear end guaranteed to
ST0II PIPE
Death Valley, California 92328
Hadley didn't leave a thing undone.
He measured the air and soil tempera-
tures, the relative humidity, the wind
Dial operator for Stove Pipe Wells Toll Station #1
velocity, the radiation, and fed all this
34 | Desert/ November 1976
continuing information into a computer. So much for the handling of the color
He then attached a thermocouple to the drawback in the matter of temperature
beetles themselves either in the body regulation. Now how about the potential FOR GIFTS, PERSONAL WEAR OR PROFIT!
cavity itself, or in the subelytral cavity. bad news of black beetle against light
The thermocouples didn't bother the sand to be gobbled up so easily?
beetles. They walked, fed and generally Here, too, Eleodes has the answer:
EASY TO DO, NO SPECIAL SKILLS
behaved normally. The smell, the bad smell, contained in a Earn Big Money in your spare time.
Sell your creations for 2 to 5 times
He had 11 of the Eleodes armata strong and irritating secretion a-la •hat you paid for them. This
FREE CATALOG contains everything
working for him and while they pottered skunko, fired with such accuracy that at- need , . . send for hobby-crafts biggest and Ix-st
catalog: Contains over 10,000 items . . . loaded with
about their business on the desert tackers learn to avoid him. pictures — everything you need to get started at once.
surface their temperatures were record- The team of anatomists Thomas SEND FOR I-REE CATALOG
ed as the morning wore on and the heat Eisner and Jerrold Meinwald took a look IGRIEGER'S Inc.
and radiation increased. Surprisingly, in at his machinery. The secretion is manu-
the early part of the test, the beetle's factured by glands which are actually in-
body temperature first rose well above foldings of the body wall. Such a gland
that of the air, hitting about 104 degrees. consists of tissues that make the
Then, a balance seemed to be achieved secretion and a sac-like reservoir in
which the secretion is stored. The open-
GENUINE
between heat gain and heat loss. The
beetle was able to hold this equilibrium ing to the outside is small, located in DOMESTICATED
within a few degrees for some time until Eleodes in the tip of his abdomen, and it GOLDEN CHIA SEEDS
at last the day's temperature and radia- has a valve closure. When action is (SALVIA COLUMBARIAE)
tion loads got too high, forcing it to go to called for, Eleodes stands on his head,
the shade or even underground. points his abdomen. A muscle opens the
Sufficient for four 50-foot rows. Complete
Always the temperature in the subely- valve and the secretion —a fancy chemi-
instructions. Packet: $2.00.
tral space was higher than that of the cal consisting of three quinones —is
body itself, in one case a full eight de- ejected as a spray. HARRISON DOYLE
P.O. Box 785
grees. Once the beetle reached the A shot of this in the nose discourages a
Vista, California 92083
cooler areas, both body and subelytral coyote, a fox and, in fact, almost all other
temperatures dropped fast. predators great and small, foiling the at-
Since black is a bad color in the desert tacker before the beetle sustains disabl-
for absorbing heat, Hadley painted some ing injury. But the grasshopper mouse is
beetles white to see if this would be not daunted. Tough and determined, the
better. It did reflect the light and de-
lay the temperature rise so that the dif-
mouse grabs the beetle and, holding it
upright in his front paws, jams the butt
INSTANT
ferences between subelytral cavity and end down into the sand. The beetle fires FIRST-AID
body cavity was not so great in these away but the secretion goes into the What-to-do
beetles. But, their black bellies still ab- earth. A toad, lightning-quick on the A must for every
sorbed heat from the ground. tongue flick, can capture and swallow an
home, office, shop,
Obviously, the crusty shell provided Eleodes before the beetle can fire. Be-
automobile,
by the elytra helps conserve water by lated measures, if they occur in the
boat, and
preventing evaporation, a valuable ad- stomach, apparently do not bother the
classroom.
junct to a desert going beetle. And, since toad.
one breathing apparatus of the insect What with such efficient temperature
opens into the subelytral space, it may regulating devices and defense tactics
be that ventilation of this area helps the that work so well generally, Eleodes is
beetle unload heat and to achieve tem- pretty lucky in his own right, particularly $4,99
plus 50C
perature equilibrium under mild heat since he has developed such a flexible shipping and handling
Caiifornians add
stress. Hadley, cogitating on all this, activity pattern. For here is a beetle that 6% sales tax.
arrived at the conclusion that certainly if can be active daytimes, dusk or night,
This Instant First-Aid could help you
this cavity did not exist between the hard hibernate and generally make the most save a life . . . get a fast answer for hun-
wing covers and the body underneath, of daily and seasonal environmental con- dreds of emergencies... with no time
the sun's heat would be quickly lost! When first aid is required, just
ditions. But this leaves the question:
slide the red arrow to the emergency
conducted to the inside body cavity. How does this lucky beetle know how to condition. Press the gold key below.
Nature seems to have separated the two do all this? If his activity is run by an Read the first-aid instructions. It works
with an air-filled pocket—a kind of internal clock, and K. R. Kramm's tests for hundreds of emergencies... poison
swallowed, bleeding, broken bones,
buffer zone—which delays this heat with Eleodes on an activity wheel seem heart attack... and many others which
transfer. With this neat added protection to point this way, how can a timer like can't wait until the doctor arrives.
against heat build-ups, Eleodes can this be switched around with such ease?
INSTANT SPELLER CO., Dept. D106 125 So.
make his short jaunts across the hot des- Beetle-browed scientists are still Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90004
ert sand in spite of his dark coloration. trying to find out. •
Desert/November 1976 35
Paquime, Cultural
Crossroads
M
EXICO IS a country well known for Spanish explorers mention the crumbling and the Amerind Foundation of Dragoon
its archeological treasures. Each adobe walls in their writings. The Fran- Arizona. Under the bi-national direction
year hundreds of thousands visit the ciscan friars established a mission near of Dr. Charles Di Peso and Professor
impressive ruins of such pre-Columbian the site in the late 1660s, which was sub- Eduardo Contreras, Paquime began to
cities as Teotihucan, Uxmal and Chichen sequently destroyed in the Indian revolt reveal its long held secrets.
Itza. All of these sites are in the southern of 1684. The first description written in It appears that the Casas Crandes site
part of the country. One of the most im- English was by John Bartlett in 1854. In had been used for centuries. Three
portant archeological sites in the north- the 1880s, Paquime was visited by the major periods of occupation can be iden-
ern part of Mexico is within a few hours archeologist A. F. Bandelier. A few tified. Each of these three succeeding
drive of the border. Yet curiously, it re- years later, veteran explorer Carl Lum- cultures shows more skill, diversification
mains generally overlooked by most holtz visited the ruins, too. and sophistication. The people of
Mexico-bound tourists. This site is
It was not until the period of 1958-61, Paquime seemed to have reached their
known as Paquime, or Casas Grandes.
however, that any serious excavation peak of civilization in the 140-year period
Both terms mean "large houses."
and study was made of the site. This between 1060 and 1200 A.D. Then, like
The ruins at Casas Crandes have been "dig" was jointly conducted by the Insti- many of the pueblo communities of the
known for centuries. Sixteenth century tute Nacional de Antropologia y Historia Southwest, the complex was suddenly
abandoned and its inhabitants moved
on.
Paquime is an important site to ar-
by cheologists because it was a melting pot
ROGER of many cultures. At first glance,
MITCHELL Paquime resembles many of the ancient
Indian ruins found in Arizona, New
Mexico and southwest Colorado. Upon
closer examination, however, certain im-
portant differences emerge. The pottery
produced by the Paquime peoples was
very sophisticated and artistic, even by
today's standards. The clay texture,
manufacture and painted designs were
far superior to anything found in the
Southwest. These potters were true
artisans.
Certain discoveries really blew the ar-
cheological minds of the excavators.
Paquime was long thought to be a re-
ligious and ceremonial center. While the
Paquime's people here built pit houses or kivas like
parrot the Mogollon people farther north, they
cages also adopted many cultural traits of the
and a advanced cultures far to the south in
portion Southern Mexico and Guatemala. There
of the may even have been worship of the god
vast Quetzalcoatl. There were stone ceremon-
archeological ial monuments and metal jewelry found
ruins. which were typical of the famous Toltec
36 Desert/ November 1976
civilization. Two "l"-shaped ball courts Typical "J"-shaped
were uncovered which are very similar to doorways permitted limited access.
those found at Tula and Xochicalo in
southern Mexico. The peoples of Pa- from a spring. Water from the nearby
quime also kept domesticated parrots river does not appear to have been used
and turkeys, probably for their brightly for domestic purposes. Could it have
colored feathers which were used for been polluted? Throughout the complex,
ceremonial purposes. channels beneath the floor provided
The most striking feature of the ruins drainage. In one room, researchers
is the buildings. Their construction was found a carefully camouflaged well
relatively simple, yet the architecture which would supply emergency water in
shows forethought and careful planning. case the city was isolated under siege.
The largest structures were communal The inhabitants of Paquime must have
buildings around which revolved the life been very concerned about attacks by
of the community. Having walls four feet neighboring tribes. On a prominent hill-
thick, the lowest floors could support the top some five miles away lies the ruins of
weight of as many as four more stories what was apparently an observation
tower. Lumholtz found the ruins of a
on top of them. The wall thickness tapers
structure 40 feet in diameter having four
distinct rooms inside. How high the tow-
NEW MEXICO ( Columbus er once stood remains a matter of specu-
Palomas lation. Whatever its height, this hilltop
CHIHUAHUA '
fortress certainly had a commanding
view of the surrounding countryside.
Today, it is easy to visit the Paquime
ruins. From Deming, New Mexico, take
State Route 11 south to Columbus. This
is the site of Pancho Villa's famous raid
OF Jams
on March 9, 1916. Cross the border at
Las Palomas and continue south on the
paved road. At a point 19 miles below
the border, turn right on Mexican High-
A Colonia Dublar
way #2. It is 52 miles to Janos, once a New Mexico to old Casas Crandes it is a
[ j Nuevo Casas Grandes
presidio protecting the area from the total distance of 125 miles. The roads are
-v—/ \ -N- ferocious Apache. From Janos follow the good all the way and there is no reason
pavement south. After 38 miles you will why the drive couldn't be done in two or
RUINS OF '
CASAS GRANDES nu 79 enter Colonia Dublan. This was a thriv- three hours.
ing community of Mormon expatriates At the main square in old Casas '
from Utah around the turn of the last Grandes, turn left across from the',
down as each additional floor was added. century. The village also served as head- church. Signs will direct you to the ar-
Logs fitted together and plastered over quarters for General Blackjack Pershing cheological zone. It is less than a mile
formed the floors of the apartments. The in his punitive expedition against Pancho from the plaza. The caretaker of the site
walls were then sealed with a layer of Villa. Today, Colonia Dublan merges may or may not ask for the admission fee
with the rapidly growing agricultural of a few pesos. Visitor information facil-
smooth plaster.
center of Nuevo Casas Crandes. ities have not yet been developed and
Entrances to the main building
complex were quite limited. The "J"- Although definitely not a tourist town, there are no guide books published on
shaped defensive doorway was-common- Nuevo Casas Crandes does offer all the the area. You will simply have to wander
ly used. By using this type of architec- supplies and services a traveler could through the ruins on your own. Such
ture, an intruder entering the door would want. It also has two modern motels. things as the aqueducts, the "T"-shap-
have to crouch over in an awkward posi- Nuevo Casas Grandes owes its existence ed doorways, and the parrots' cages are
tion coming in head first. He would thus first to the railroad which got it started, easy to recognize. You may have to climb
be an easy target for anyone inside with and second to the large agricultural de- one of the low mounds, however, to get
velopments which grew up around it. the proper perspective to recognize the
a club. Further, access to the stairways
The original Casas Grandes is still 15 "l"-shaped ball court and the Toltec
leading to the upper floors were all in-
miles farther south. With all of the cross.
side the interior rooms and courts. Pa-
quime certainly had a fortress-like hustle and bustle taking place in Nuevo Regardless of whether you visit Pa-
quality. Casas Grandes, old Casas Grandes re- quime enroute to somewhere else, or
The people who lived here were equal- tains all of the charm of a quiet Mexican make a special trip, I am certain you will
ly skilled in hydrology. A four-mihe-long village. I'm sure the local residents wish find the visit interesting and worthwhile.
aqueduct brought fresh water to the city to keep it that way. From Columbus, •
Desert/November 1976 m 37
Salt Creek, with the northern tip
BOLDEST FORTYNINER
of the Panamints [dark, left].
Continued from Page 37
The Fortyniners followed part of this
creek to Salt Spring, where they camped.
one they all made together. Here they
killed oxen, drying the meat as best they Then, following the wheel ruts of the
could. And here Martin and Townsend emigrant wagons, which Miller said
brought in the Gunsight silver. He had could be seen hundreds of yards
held it in his hands. It was silver. ahead, they reached Salt Spring and the
The terrors of Death Valley increased scattered wagon remains. Continuing to
in the minds of most Fortyniners as the track wagon ruts eight or nine miles
years passed. But to Rood it seemed to westerly, they lost them in the sand
be just a place to hunt lost silver, with dunes. Then Rood turned toward the
miscellanous exploring and prospecting Panamints and Summit Camp.
on the side. The crisscross exploration For several days they camped and
he made in 1869—the first on record for prospected at a spring Miller called
some areas —was a remarkable feat. Grapevine, seven miles from Summit
From Summit Camp Rood and his (Emigrant) Pass. Although the compass
party prospected east and north across direction is wrong, the mileage and later
the Panamints, then south to a canyon description seem to identify it as Emi-
coming down from Telescope Peak. This grant Spring. To be nearer the abundant
they entered by sliding their animals grass on the Summit, they moved up the
down to the bottom—one man on each wash about two miles to " D o v e s ' the wash, and Jayhawker Spring, about
side—and followed it to the Valley floor. Spring" where they stayed some time three miles distant, is in no wash leading
Going north past the Bennett-Arcane "prospecting between the two valleys" to the Summit.
camp of 1849, they crossed the Valley — presumably Death and Panamint. The expedition returned to Salt Spring
through "saleratus and salt" to Furnace Doves' Spring remains a puzzler, since and continued up the Valley to Mesquite
Creek. Upper Emigrant is only about a mile up Flat. Here their real adventures began.
Three Indians they found hiding near a
small water hole signaled their brethern,
Enjoy Our and soon 35 more, armed with bows and
New Modern Motel arrows, came charging down the mesa.
Kitchenettes Apache-fighter Rood took over. "Keep
New Camper Park cool, boys. Don't get excited," he said.
Complete Utilities " I expect they will get us, but we will
Relax in Our stay together and give them the best we
Hot Mineral Baths have got, and get as many of them as we
Hydro Therapy Massage can."
38 Desert/November 1976
thumb-nails and strip every bit of meat Miller said —their provisions ran out. It
from the bone, and lay the meat in the would have been hot by then, but when
sun to dry. They would throw the guts on Rood's party left Death Valley, earlier
• - • . . , , • • • • • • :
the fire, and roast them, and eat them than intended, it was not because of heat
then and there." and terror, but because they were
When the time came to take their In- hungry.
dian guide home, as promised, they His failure to find the Lost Gunsight in
worked their way down and across Death 1869 did not discourage Bill Rood, nor
Valley and up Cottonwood Canyon. They W. W. McCoy, either. McCoy still want-
found the band encamped at the cotton- ed to hunt for the lost ledge with Rood,
woods and abundant water of Cotton- and Rood was willing. McCoy must have
wood Spring, and stayed overnight with made such a search eventually, as his
them. name is prominent on a rock at Jay-
"The next morning we left that hawker Spring.
camp," wrote Miller. "One Indian was But he did not go with Bill Rood.
moving his family to another place, and The expedition with McCoy was
went along with us until we came to a planned for May, 1870. April 29, 1870,
trail that led back east to the head of Rood and his foreman Alex Poindexter
Panamint Valley. That was the last we started to cross the Colorado from the
saw of our Indian friends. We went on ranch to the California side in a small
into Panamint Valley, up Wildrose Can- boat.
yon, north over the Summit, on the The river was rising and a gale was
the meal was prepared. Then he took it Death Valley side to the Grapevine blowing. The boat struck a snag and
out to them and spread it on the ground Springs. We prospected about; found capsized. Poindexter reached the shore.
for them. The others, who had not come plenty of good-looking quartz, but noth : Bill Rood did not. The day Rood was due
in yet, could not resist any longer. They ing that would pay to pack out on a to arrive in San Bernardino, to start
threw their weapons on the ground, mule." again for Death Valley, McCoy received
came on, and joined in the feast. Because of the food they had given the the news he had drowned in the
Judging from the looks of them, they Indians —"about a month's supply," Colorado. •
needed i t . "
Before that feast was over, Rood had
commandeered an Indian to guide the
party to grass and water, in return for
pay, food, and a suit of clothes. He
promised to bring the guide back by a
certain date, but warned that treachery
BISHOR GATEWAY TO THE EASTERN SIERRA"
I
only friends. There were no utilities to
Telephone Death Valley Junc-
company. But his world was changed for pay, no bank interest to collect, and no
tion #8 for reservations. Tours
good. Others came and reopened the mortgage to worry about. Even his car
JjT welcomed.
store and Slim was never alone after was paid for. Slim had neatly solved the
r\ that. Not that it mattered, he was near- problems of modern life by never chang-
ing the end of life's long trail. ing his own way of doing things.
The General Store, Filling Sta- Throughout his life, Slim had been his Television stations came to interview
tion and Pottery Shop are open. own man. Neither the government, well- Slim and find out his "secret" of life. If
RV Park coming. Space avail- intentioned welfare workers, claim he had a secret, he never revealed it, at
able for development. jumpers or hordes of "city slickers" had least not on TV! For his funeral, scores
ever told him what to do. It wasn't until of mourners showed up, most of them
his health started to fail that Slim even "outsiders" who knew Slim in happier
For further information about 1 left Ballarat in the blistering summer times. He was carried to the Ballarat
DEATH VALLEY JUNCTION1 months when temperatures reached 130 Boot Hill, and became the first person to
please write: degrees. When he did leave, it wasn't to be buried there in almost 50 years.
Death Valley Junction, Inc. go far. He would go to Trona and rent a A simple tombstone marks the grave
P.O. Box 675 small cabin where the temperatures of a simple man, a man who met the 20th
Death Valley Junction, were only about 120 degrees. Century on his own terms and came out
California 92328
Welfare workers did their best to get ahead. There may never be another man
Slim out of his camp and into a rest like Seldom Seen Slim, but then, as the
home. "Rest home!" he would growl. philosopher once said, "They don't
" I ' m resting here just fine." A few of his make them like they used t o . " •
40 Desert/November 1976
Out
on a
Limb
about
Your
gift
List?
Give
Photo by George Service
Hocks
Iron — Postpaid $6.50.
S
AN DIEGO County, California has a duced so many crystals that the market
JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER, INC
large number of mines located on was somewhat glutted. The miners be-
7590 Cypress [at Van Buren]
P. O. Box 4277 pegmatite dikes. Many gem minerals came careless, and looked only for the
Riverside, California 92504 are found there, but the most spectacular larger crystals. Many excellent smaller
Telephone [714] 785-1330 are the tourmalines that appear in many crystals were thrown into the dumps,
of the mines. If we might use tourmaline and became prizes for the amateurs in
as the indicator of the best of these the 1950s.
STOP THAT THIEF mines, then the Himalaya, near the About 1910, the mine was purchased
WITH I OCKSTRAP small town of Mesa Grande, is the best. by a Chinese, and the larger crystals,
Not only, in our minds at least, is this some about two inches in cross section,
A revolutionary new design one of the finest mines in the county, it is were sent to China and were carved into
secures all G.I. fuel cans to probably the oldest. Tourmaline crystals bottles and other art objects. The
your carrier or holder and
locks your filler cap. Attaches were discovered at Mesa Grande in Chinese liked the translucent crystals
to back of carrier. All steel 1880. best, and again, much of the clear gem
construction, zinc «_ _n
plated. Type B 0 n l y $ 7 . 5 0 The Himalaya produces a wonderful material found its way into the dumps.
PLUS POSTAGE. 2 LBS.
array of colors and clarity of tourmaline. With the fall of the Chinese Dynasty a
Send for FREE Brochure Showing The most common is a fine pink of few years later, mining ceased, and the
Other Models to Fit Any Vehicle medium hue. Excellent green crystals property was sold. Up to the 1960s, no
DEALER
are also found; some with yellow mining was done and the tunnels caved
INQUIRIES overtones. Some blue, and a few nearly in. Only a watchman remained on the
INVITED colorless are also present. A large per- property. He was a friendly individual,
centage of these are flawless, or nearly and welcomed amateur collectors as long
1141 Wiltsey Rd., SE so. Most of these bring very high prices as they worked the dumps. As these
Salem, Oregon 97302
as display specimens. The broken crys- were prolific, no one thought of trying
get into the mine, even though some
openings were visible. Why go into a po-
tentially dangerous mine when the
dumps contained numerous fine crystals?
lector turned miner. He opened the orig- sizes. Boxed. Send 25c n Money Order
DESERT MAGAZINE
Box 1318 REPLACEABLE SUBSCRIPTION FORM Novembers
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
• Check here if you
Statement of ownership, management and cir-
cilation (Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685).
DlAtAL
P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
wish this issue replaced.
1. Title of publication: DESERT Magazine.
2. Date of filing: September 30, 1976.
3. Frequency of issue: Monthly. ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION
3a. No. of issues published annually: 12.
3b. Annual subscription price: $6.00.
4. Location of known office of publication
74-425 Highway 111, Palm Desert, Riverside NAME
California 92260.
5. Location of the headquarters or genera ADDRESS
business offices of the publishers: Same as
above.
6. Names and addresses of publisher and
editor: Publishers-Editors: William and Joy
Knyvett, 79-890 Horseshoe Rd., Indio, Calif
92201.
7. Names and addresses of owners: Same as
above. Ii SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
8. Bondholders, mortgagers, security hold
ers: None. NAME
10. Extent and nature of circulation: Averagi
no. of copies each issue during preceding 12 ADDRESS
months: Total no. copies printed, 37,945; Paid
circulation: Sales through dealers and carriers
street vendors and counter sales, 7,000; Mai
subscriptions, 20,200; Total paid circulation
27,200; Free distribution by mail, carrier o
other means: Samples, complimentary, an Sign Gift Card: "From
other free copies, 300; Total distribution: 27.500
Office use, left over, unaccounted, spoiled afte
printing, 3,445; Returns from news agents i I SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
7,000; Total: 37,945.
Actual number of copies of single issue pub NAME
lished nearest to filing date: Total no. copie
printed, 33,500; Paid circulation: Sales throug
dealers and carriers, street vendors and counte ADDRESS
sales, 5,000; Mail subscriptions, 20,860; Tota
paid circulation, 25,860; Free distribution b
mail, carrier or other means: Samples, compli
mentary, and other free copies, 300; Tota
distribution, 26,160; Office use, left-over, unac Sign Gilt Card: "From
counted, spoiled after printing, 2,340; Return
from news agents, 5,000; Total: 33,500.
11.1 certify that the statements made by m One Year $6.00 I1 PAYMENT ENCLOSED Cl BILL ME LATER
above are correct and complete. S/ William
Knyvett, Publisher/Editor. Two Years $11.00 • ALSO SEND DESERT'S 12-ISSUE
12. In accordance with the provisions of thi (Or 2 One Years) HANDSOME BROWN VINYL BINDER FOR
statute, I hereby request permission to mail th
publication named in Item 1 at the phase $4.50 (Includes tax and postage)
Three Years $16.00
postage rates presently authorized by 39 U.S.C (Or Three One Years) Date Binder(s) with Year(s) D Undated
3626.
Desert/November 1976 45
That was when he found out he'
DESERT W A Y F A R E R it so that the final etchin' come out back-
Only $5
it is printed the cabin will be on the left When the hassel and noise o' the con-
00 side o' the picture, so he has to be think-
in' all the time to make sure that any-
crete canyons get to ridin' him too
heavy, Purcell throws his bedroll in the
(POSTAGE AND TAX PAID) thing he prints comes out the way it back o' his van and heads fer the wide
looks in real life. But, sometimes he open spaces. There he finds peace and
TO:
goofs, bein' human. He laughed as he solitude. He recharges and gets his
REPRINT DEPARTMENT told me 'bout the time he went to all the strength from the desert—maybe that's
DESERT MAGAZINE work o' drawin' the Judge Roy Bean why he is able to recreate it on paper so
PALM DESERT, CALIF. 92260 cabin down in Texas. When he printed well, even though he has to do it
it, somehow it jist didn't seem right. backwards! •
46 Desert/ Nnvsmhor -fo7fi
Willie's worries over his dog finally overcame
Events
waves, a powerful wind and a very slippery
lake bottom, the partially floated heavy ob-
jects jiggled about quite handily. This was a
Letters requesting answers must scene no outsider has ever witnessed, pre-
include stamped self-addressed envelope sumably because he has too much sense to
visit dry lakes in such weather, especially re-
mote dry lakes. But Whispering Willie and This column is a public service and there is no
It Shouldn't Happen to a Dog . . . his dog were both there. And the dog was in charge for listing your event or meeting—so take
advantage of the space by sending in your an-
The Racetrack is truly a long way from cen- deep trouble. nouncement. We must receive the information
ters of civilization in Death Valley National Hanging on for dear life (probably to one of at least three months prior to the event.
Monument. I know it takes a long time for those power poles which was about to move),
news to go out over those 25 miles of poor to the dog spotted Willie and let out a howl of
NOVEMBER 3-7, Las Vegas Cem Club pre-
terrible road, so I do not wonder that Clenn terror. He got Willie's attention, all right, but
sents their 5th Annual Cem Show, "Happy
and Martha Vargas never got the straight his wide open jaw also caught the full force of
Birthday Gems of America" at the Jaycee Bi-
word on those wonderful wandering rocks an especially hard gust of wind that ripped it
centennial State Fair, Las Vegas Convention
which inhabit that remote area. open and instantly turned the dog inside out.
Center in Las Vegas, Nevada. Displays,
An old prospector, known to his friends as Suffocated in his own shaggy coat, the dog re-
Guest exhibits, demonstrations and dealers.
"Whispering W i l l i e " Watson, lived on the laxed his grip, bounced across the lake and
shore of that distant dry lake for many years, was never seen again.
NOVEMBER 6 & 7, Montebello Mineral and
observed the wandering rocks during their And what about Whispering Willie? Oh, he
Lapidary Society's Annual Gem and Mineral
rare peregrinations and personally told me made it back to the house all right, to live a
Show, The Gardens Masonic Temple, 6310
the following story after I finally worked up while and watch the rocks move about on the
East Olympic Blvd., East Los Angeles, Calif.
enough nerve to ask him why he usually, but Racetrack at least one more time. But Willie
Dealer space filled, admission free. Show
not always, talked in a tight-lipped whisper. I never got another dog. He just couldn't. Inci-
Chairman: Jack Davis, 3344 Lexington Ave.,
can vouch for the total truth of this story since dentally, inside that stone house of his,
El Monte, Calif. 91731.
anyone who ever knew Willie will swear to Willie never whispered. His big voice, tired of
you that he never told a lie in his whole life. restraint, always echoed from the hard stone
NOVEMBER 6 & 7, Bear Gulch Rock Club's
Which is more than I can say for some power walls. But outside, he always whispered. The
14th Annual Gem and Mineral Show.
line maintenance men who sometimes have to event herein honestly recounted cured Willie
Masonic Hall, 1025 N. Vine Ave., Ontario,
explain missing power poles. of any desire to open his mouth outdoors.
California 91761. Dealer space filled. Exhib-
Willie lived in a rock cabin under a protect- You can check the veracity of this tale by its, demonstrations, food. Free admission and
ing cliff on the eastern shore of the desert talking to any of the many friends of Whisper- parking. Show Chairman: Reatha Reedus,
playa we now call "The Racetrack." His ing Willie Watson. Unfortunately, it is too 528 N. Mills Ave., Claremont, Calif. 91711.
cabin was tight up under the bluff, in the late to ask Willie. He was killed many years
shade of some large boulders, there protected ago, the last time the stones on his lake
NOVEMBER 11-14, Death Valley Encamp-
from other smaller rocks that sometimes dis- moved during a particularly hard blow on the
ment, in the Stovepipe Wells and Furnace
lodged from the steep slope above to leap and Racetrack. Convinced he heard his long lost
Creek areas of the National Monument. Hotel
bound down the mountainside and out onto canine friend scratching at the door, Willie
accommodations limited, so plan to "camp
the hard beige surface of the dry lake. The relaxed his guard a bit and opened his cabin
under the desert stars." Campfire meetings,
house was but a few feet above and beyond door just a crack. He was sucked out through
historical talks, guided tours and exhibits.
the lake bottom and was well guarded against the opening by the fierce wind, blown out on
Fun for the whole family.
the wind which howled mightily across the to the recently flooded playa, and was run
valley on stormy nights, which luckily wasn't over by several rambling rocks.
NOVEMBER 20 & 21, The Indian Wells Gem
very often. After 40 years you can still easily identify and Mineral Society presents its 20th Annual
But when the wind did blow, Whispering the site of Willie's sad demise. Dry mud Show at the Community Center, China Lake,
Willie had a problem. His pet mountain sheep ridges can still be seen where some of the Calif. Field trips, admission free. Contact:
were fully capable of fending for themselves, moving rocks caromed off Willie's prostrate Chairman Margaret Murphy, 55-A Stroop,
but his big English Sheep D.og (the kind that body in long arcing curves, while other rocks, China Lake, Calif. 93555.
looks out through his hair like a four-legged striking the helpless man more solidly,
hippie) had trouble keeping his footing in bounded over the body and left a gap in their DECEMBER 4 & 5, 7th Annual "Red
anything worse than just an ordinary high otherwise unbroken trail across the lake Carpet" Gem and Mineral Show, Santa
wind. So when the really big gales blew, bottom. Monica Civic Auditorium, 1855 Main St.,
usiually during or after the torrential rains Yes, little has changed in 40 years. Santa Monica, Calif. Outstanding profession-
that occasionally hit the region, Willie kept al and amateur displays, working demonstra-
his big dog inside, in the stone house. JOHNSOUTHWORTH, tions. Dealer spaces filled. Show Chairman
However, on this particular night of which I Burbank, California. Bob King, 1826 9th St., Manhattan Beach,
speak, hurricane gale or no, the dog had to go Calif. 90266.
out. Which was the last that was ever seen of
him, almost. Editor's Note: The policy of the magazine FEBRUARY 26 & 27, Gem and Mineral Show
After a decent interval, Willie had opened does not usually allow such lengthy "Letters sponsored by the Santa Clara Valley Gem and
the door a bit, peered out, and called. No to the Editor." But due to its timeliness for Mineral Society, Inc., Santa Clara County
answer. This procedure was repeated several the Death Valley issue, and the unusual con- Fairgrounds, Pavilion Bldg., J 4 4 Tully Road,
times, always with the same negative results. tent, an exception has been made! San Jose, Calif.
Desert/November 1976 47
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I
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