ATTENTION1 Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING: *abric4 1. 'enter bac5 part / 6 pieces 6. $ide bac5 part / 6 pieces 7. %nner collar / 1 piece 4. .uter collar / 1 piece 5. $ide front part / 6 pieces 8. 'enter front part / 6 pieces 9. *ront band / 6 pieces :. +pper off;set welt / 1 piece 9. <atch poc5et / 6 pieces 10. .ff;set welt / 6 pieces 11. $lee=e / 6 pieces 16. Bac5 nec5line facing / 1 piece ,ining4 1. *ront part / 6 pieces
*using4 front band, off;set welt, center front part, bac5 nec5line facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. (pply the fusing to wrong part of front band, off;set welt, center front part, bac5 nec5line facing.
6. 1ar5 front>bac5 darts. $titch bac5 dart and press them towards bac5 center. $titch front darts and slash their depths. 'ut poc5et entrance. $titch side front part to center front part and press the seam apart. $titch poc5et entrance together and press it apart. 1a5e decorati=e stitch at 0.6 cm from darts.
7. <ress upper welt along the center wrong side out. .=erstitch welt corners, cut e?tra fabric and turn the welt right side out. <ress ready welt. 1a5e decorati=e stitch along welt contour at 0.6 cm from edge. 1ar5 bust poc5et. $titch the welt to front part, turn it upwards and topstitch welt@s sides.
4. ,ay outer collar on inner one and o=erstitch them. $lash e?tra fabric in corners, and pres the collar.
5. <ress lower poc5et welt along the center, wrong side out. 1ar5 off;set welt on poc5et. 'ut fabric =alance. 1ar5 poc5et Aoining line on off;set welt, measuring its width. ,ay off;set welt on poc5et coinciding mar5ed line. $titch the welt to poc5et. ,ay the =alance on poc5et right side and press it. 'hec5 if welt and =alance are correctly stitched (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel and distance between them must be eBual with ready welt width). 'ut poc5et entrance. 1a5e diagonal cuts at 1;1.5 cm from poc5et ends. -urn welt and poc5et =alance through this hole wrong side out. *i? poc5et ends with double re=erse stitch on wrong side along corner basis. #eaten poc5et =alance and fi? poc5et entrance. #eaten patch poc5et outer contour. <ress patch poc5et upper edge and topstitch at 0.5 from upper edge. <ress poc5et edges according to pattern. 1ar5 poc5et place on front part and topstitch reinforcing poc5et corners.
8. ,ay front band on front part right side together, pin them together and o=erstitch along edging (o=erstitch on front part side up to the notch pointing collar stitch;in end). 'ut edging upper corner seams. )emo=e pins. #eaten edge o=erstitching4 at closure segment; on front band, at lapel segment / onfront edging.
9. $titch middle bac5 seam, neaten it and press it. $titch bac5 relie=es, neaten them and pres them. 1a5e decorati=e stitch at 0.5 cm from seams.
:. 1ar5 lining front darts and stitch it. #eaten lining front shoulder edge. <ress darts. #eaten garment bac5 hem. <ress garment front>bac5 hem into wrong side. $titch the lining to front band outer edge and o=erstitch front part lower edge with lining.
9. $titch side edges together, turning bac5 hem to bac5 part right side so that front part became inserted into bac5 hem. #eaten side edges, fold bac5 hem into bac5 part wrong side, and press.
10. #eaten garment shoulder seams, stitches them together and press apart. $titch shoulder edges of front band and facing. <ress seams apart and stitch outer collar into facing nec5line, and inner collar sew into front>bac5 nec5line. <ress collar Aoining seam@s allowances apart and fi? them close to seams. *i? lining shoulder edge allowance with garment shoulder edge.
11. #eaten slee=e edge. #eaten slee=e lower edge and press it into wrong side. *old slee=e hem allowance into right side and o=erstitch slit corners. *old slee=e hem into wrong side into wrong side and topstitch it.
16. $titch slee=es into armholes according to notches. 1a5e decorati=e stitch at 0.5 cm from edging, along collar contour and garment hem. )emo=e tac5ing.
17. 1a5e buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.