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Power 12
Planurile le-am cumparat de la Selway-Fisher, placajul Okoume de 10mm de la Holver din Brasov. Rasina si intaritor de la Polydis din Bucuresti.Am
inceput constructia la data de 19 August 2011 cu dorinta de a finaliza barca la primavara.
Foaia de placaj are 2.5m iar barca 5m. Asta inseamna ca fasiile care vor forma corpul ambarcatiunii vor trebui lipite. Tehnica folosita se numeste Butt
Strap.
Fasiile for fi asamblate conform procedeului Stitch and Glue sau Stitch and Tape. Placajul este cusut cu sarma sau cu coliere de plastic pentru a-i
da forma dorita. Apoi muchiile se umezesc cu rasina epoxi pentru ca amestecului de epoxi si rumegus sa faca priza buna. Dupa uscare se inlatura
sarmele sau colierele si se continua chituirea.
Urmeaza lipirea placajelor conform tehnicii Butt Strap. Am amestecat rasina epoxi cu ghips pana la consistenta laptelui batut. In prealabil toate
partile ce urmeaza sa fie lipite sunt umezite cu rasina epoxi ne-ingrosata.
O fixam bine si lasam la uscat 12-18 ore. Noaptea polimerizarea este foarte lenta din cauza ca temperatura scade sub 20 grade.
O greseala copilareasca: am lipit doua placi identic si nu simetric (insemnanad ca lipitura Butt Strap iese pe exteriorul barcii, ceea ce nu este
acceptabil). Am taiat lipitura cu fierastraul pendular si cu dalta am indepartat placajul Butt Strap.
Lipim si ultimele piese. Baloo face un lipici excelent, de densitatea mustarului. Sendrea foloseste cantarul intr-un mod aparte; ochiometric. Pentru el
cantarul este un suport pentru pahar, ca sa nu murdareasca cu rasina placajul.
sa speram ca tine
Pentru a fixa placile vom folosi un chit gros de epoxi cu rumegus de lemn. Pentru a face priza buna umezim in prelabil imbinarile cu rasina.
7 Octombrie 2011
Proaspat intorsi din concediu reluam munca la barca. Taiem toate bridele si sarmele. Rasturnam barca pentru a lucra mai usor dar inainte trebuie
inlaturat cadrul central.
Cu noul slefuitor cu banda munca devine distractie. Musca din placaj si rasina de numa numa. Urmeaza finalizarea lipiturilor. Temperatura la Brasov a
scazut la 3 grade noaptea. Duminica dimineata era zapada pe jos. Garajul abia ajunge la 17-18 grade cu centrala pornita. Am lasat caldura peste
noapte dar rasina era inca lipicioasa dimineata. Ma gandesc serios la o solutie de incalzire aditionala.
22 Octombrie 2011
Etapa ce urmeaza m-a surprins din punct de vedere al timpului planificat.
Imbinarile trebuiesc acum chituite cu epoxy si rumegus apoi ramforsate cu banda de fibra de sticla:
Nu am gasit banda de fibra de sticla in Romania, ce am folosit aici este comandat din America pt ca un prieten tocmai ce vizita continentul. Sigur
poate fi comandata din Europa. In orice caz, merita efortul de a o procura.
29 Octombrie 2011
Am terminat de ramforsat cu fibra si ultima lipitura. Satul de chitul cu rumegus am folosit ghips. Se modeleaze foarte bine, dar cred ca adauga
greutate. Se spune ca ghipsul trebuie tinut la cuptor inainte de a fi folosit pentru a indeparta orice urma de apa.
by Wulkie
Introduction
Read a short introduction to this new series of small RC model boats to learn more, what materials you'll need
etc.
Tools
Here are some of the tools I ended up using for building this RC boat hull.
Scissors
Glue
Some of the templates laid out on balsa. Note how the paper "hollow" inside the templates is left to maintain the
integrity of the shapes.
At this point all templates should be glued to the balsa with the Spray Mount Adhesive, essentially turning the
templates into over-size sticky notes. Now it's time to start cutting out the parts.
Separate each part from the sheet first by using a razor blade or X-acto knife and a metal straight-edge. At this
point don't worry about the templates, except not to cut into them. This step is just to separate the pieces so
they can be trimmed later.
You don't need the straight-edge, but it is infinitely easier to make a cut if you do, and the risk of slipping and
cutting into a template is greatly reduced. If you have a scroll saw or band saw it can be put to good use at this
step.
As the pieces are separated from each other, there will be excess material surrounding the templates. Now it's
time to trim that down. I tend to do it in successive steps and using the straight-edge as much as possible. The
resulting angles will be taken off at the final trim.
I also tend to start with the outside shape and do any internal areas last, otherwise the pieces can break and split
easily.
Final Trim
With the exception of multiple parts from one template (as outlined above) parts with straight edges are best cut
to finished size with the knife and straight-edge.
For rounded edges there will be excess material coming off as angles. This is best dealt with using a wooden
sanding block and 80 grit sand paper. Start at the angled peaks and work your way around the perimeter.
When sanding, your strokes need to go in one direction only. from the template side towards the back so you
don't lift the template off the wood. You can put some angle to it, but you get the general idea.
Here are all the parts for the RC boat hull with templates still attached.
The last thing to do is to trim mortises and the internal areas as mentioned earlier. Once all done you should have
a set of parts like in the picture above.
A small square is used to transfer alignment and position marks to the balsa.
The parts that get the treatment are chine shelf, keel, deck, and transom. Having the center line marked on the
outside of the transom will help in aligning the keel and rudder.
The other components need marks to give the relative position for the bulkheads. Only one line is required per
bulkhead, but I typically mark the position for both edges so I don't have to remember if the bulkhead goes in
front of or behind the line. With two lines, I know the bulkhead goes between.
First dry-fit of both chine shelf halves, transom and two knees.
The most important tool to make a straight hull is a flat surface to build it on. It is good if you can drive pins into
it, lay weights or use magnets to hold the chine shelf down flat on the building board or table top.
Lay down the Hull Alignment Template on your building board and lay a sheet of wax paper or plastic food film
(Seran Wrap or similar) over to prevent the model to stick to the template and your table. I've found the wax
paper resist CA glue better, so that's what I use.
Secure the sheets to the board with a method suitable for the type of building board you're using - it can be pins,
tape, weights etc.
Detail of the front end of the chine shelves on the building board. Three points line up perfectly: the stem,
bulkhead position and inner front edge.
When I built the prototype I didn't have the hull alignment template, so you'll see the template is missing in the
pictures on this page. Assembly should be a lot easier and almost self explanatory with the template.
Align the two halves of the chine shelf on the hull alignment template. Pin or weigh them down once they are in
position. There three most important places to check for proper alignment are:
1.
2.
3.
If all three of these line up with the template, secure them in place to the board and glue them together with a
couple of drops of CA glue where they join at the front.
There are a few other less important points that should line up, such as the inner front edge and the lines drawn
for the #1 bulkhead.
This is where we left off after the previous build log. If you missed it or would like to go back, click this image.
Also, we're done with the hull alignment template that was placed under the wax paper to guide component
placement and alignment. However, if your building board is really dark, or just ugly, you can lay the template
upside down under a fresh sheet of wax paper. It will provide a light, neutral background when you build that
makes it easier to spot things that are out of the norm or things you drop or spill.
The Deck
After you remove the hull frame from the building board, remove any wax paper remnants if any. Give the deck
side of the structure a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper backed with a flat sanding block. Go easy as the only
purpose is to take down any obvious high spots.
Put the hull frame aside while we focus on the two deck halves (item "B" on the plans). Align them at the
pinnacle of the stem and check alignment at the rear edge where they join. At this point, place a piece of tape
over the joint to temporarily hold them together and flip the deck over with the tape facing down. Pin or weigh
the deck down on the building board.
Mark the bulkhead locations across the same way as you did on the chine shelf. The lines will be a visual aid
when aligning the deck to the hull.
Keel cut to shape and two pieces of basswood or hard balsa for the propeller shaft tunnel.
To do this you need two pieces of basswood or hard balsa approximately 1/8 X 5/16 X 2 inches (3 X 8 X 50mm)
that will act as doublers on either side of the keel. Do as follows:
On the keel, we need to stay clear of the bulkhead #4 location, so make sure the keel is well marked in that area.
Next, lay the keel (template down) on a flat surface and glue one doubler to the back side of the keel just ahead
of the #4 bulkhead location and line it up parallell with the bottom of the keel.
If you're off by a few millimeters from either that's fine. Try not to have the doubler extend passed the bottom of
the keel, it's better if you err on the other side.
Trim away the area of the keel where the propeller will pass through it, thus creating a tunnel for ditto.
Now peel away the template (make sure all bulkhead locations are transferred first!) and place it on a flat surface
with the attached doubler facing down. Prop up either extreme of the keel with scraps of material until level and
clamp or place weights on top. Glue the second doubler in place and weigh or clamp to the assembly.
Same rules apply as far as location - stay clear of bulkhead #4 location etc.
Propeller shaft tunnel finished - note faint pencil marks for bulkhead #4 just to the left of the doublers.
front-most part of the chine shelf flush to the angle of the stem piece. This way you'll have an edge that should
correspond with the front-most edge on the keel.
As you can see on the picture below, I didn't do it this way, but it would have made things a little easier. Instead I
eye-balled it in by looking at the profile and having the curved part of the keel tangent the angle of the stem.
Either method works, but I highly recommend the former.
Transom and keel transition - note how the keel is lined up to the center line of the transom and flush at the rear.
Also look at where the keel meets the transom. By design, the keel should end at the stern face of the transom
and be perfectly centered. Once all lines up, attach the keel with a few drops of CA while held perpendicular and
in position.
The lower triangles that make up the rest of the bulkheads don't have templates, but are taken off the triangular
shape created between the keel and chine shelf at each bulkhead location, or station as it is properly called.
First grab a piece of balsa a little wider than the height of the keel. At least one of the long edges need to be
straight. Use a square and make a cut at a right angle to the straight edge.
Hold the square corner against the chine shelf and keel at station #3 with one hand. With the other hand, with a
sharp pencil, mark the edge where the keel and chine shelf intersect (see picture below). All you need are two
tick-marks.
A square corner of a balsa sheet is held against the hull at each station and the edge of chine shelf and keel is
marked on the balsa.
Lay the sheet down on your cutting surface and lay a straight-edge between the two tick marks and cut with a
razor blade or X-acto knife. You can save a little time by using the first triangle at each station as a template for
the opposite side.
All the lower bulkheads are cut out and glued into place.
Now the hull frame is ready for sanding to smooth out the shape some and to give the skin more edge to hold
onto. After that we'll start the planking process.
The RC boat hull flipped over ready for sanding and planking.
Everybody hates sanding, I'm no exception. It is nonetheless an important step in completing a quality model
hull. If done right it trues up a wobbly hull and add significant strength by better accommodating the hull
planking.
The process isn't complicated, but may need a thorough break-down for the novice. This page is meant to clarify
the sanding and planking process for the simple RC boat hull.
The hull needs sanding and final shaping before the planking can start.
Tools
The only tools you need is some 80 to 100 grit sandpaper and a couple of sanding blocks. In the picture above
you'll see a razor plane. I only used that to shape the lower part of the transom. I could just as well have used
the sand paper.
You also need a good sanding block. The one on the picture is technically too wide, which made the sanding more
difficult than it had to be. I'd recommend a hard block about 3/4" wide.
A narrow block that is swept along the hull with one of the long sides leading as its moved along the length of the
hull will easier follow the changing contour. Another option here is to make a sanding stick - essentially the same
thing, except the sandpaper is glued to the block/stick.
The shape and fairness of the deck, keel and chine shelf
The transition between bulkheads and deck and chine shelf (or stringers, if any)
Using the magic marker, as described before, is my best effort to take care of #1 above.
The illustration below shows the steps of sanding and planking in regards to #2 above. The red dots show where
attention is needed for each step. A red line shows where a straight sanding block or stick has been used.
Don't take it as gospel, as some steps can be switched around without making much of a difference on the end
result.
It may be hard to see in this picture, but the upper side panel (between the deck and chine shelf) has been
sanded, corresponding to #1 & 2 in the illustration above.
Just as in step one, the keel needs to be sanded to an edge as well to give the planking some flat area to land on.
Go easy and try and take material equally off both sides. A narrow flat in the middle is OK.
Final sanding.
Later we will finish the hull by adding a keel strip, rub and spray rail.
Add a Coaming
A coaming is a raised edge that keeps water out. They also help locate the hatch. I made mine from strip balsa
1/8" x 1/4" (3mm x 6mm), but the height is not critical. I glued it in about 1/8" (3mm) proud of the deck.
For the skeg a 1/8" piece of scrap balsa were cut into a wedge and left long.
On the picture below you'll see the scalloped trailing edge of the skeg. It could be left straight, but I liked the
slight arch.
For final shape the skeg was sanded both in profile and thinned toward the propeller.
Keel Strip
Until now the planking along the keel has been left open, and it looks pretty ugly. There are several ways to
address, but my favorite is to glue in a strip of basswood for additional reinforcement.
The gap at this point is an uneven "V" where the actual angle varies along the length. First thing to do is to
square it up by running a square needle file up and down the joint.
As I file the groove, I dry-fit with a 1/16" (1.5mm) square basswood stick. In the picture below you'll see it glued
in place.
In the same picture, note how the upper edge of the hull planking (closest to the table top) has a flat sanded to
accommodate the rub rail which will be fitted next.
Rub Rail
The rub rail consist of a 1/16 x 1/8 inch (1.5 x 3 mm) strip of basswood, although most any hardwood strip of
similar size will work. It can even be made from styrene or laminated layers of card stock - your choice. Be sure
to sand a flat surface on the upper edge of the hull planking, perpendicular to the deck. This surface should be as
wide (vertically) as the strip is tall - in my case 1/8" (3 mm).
I glued them on one at a time, starting with from the stern, the starboard strip (right hand side) was glued in
place first, as shown in the picture above. Joining the strips at the stem can be tricky, but here is a tip.
Intuitively, most builders would aim for making a joint between the starboard and port side strips, down the
center line of the hull. This is not ideal for several reasons: First, it's hard to do. Second, the strip is the most
likely to take a bump straight from the front and thus will see the most shock load right where the joint is.
A better way is as illustrated.
After the first strip is attached it is trimmed and sanded to blend with the surface where the second strip is meant
to go. This way you'll end up with a joint that is a lot stronger and is off-set from the center line and therefore
less likely to take a direct hit when you bump into the dock of other obstacles.
The second strip is also glued from the stern and gradually attached with CA glue as I progress forward. I tried to
make sure the strip is flush with the deck as I went along.
Once at the stem, just continue the laying the strip passed the opposite side a fair bit.
Spray Rail
The last thing to do before we move onto the rudder is to add a spray rail. I wouldn't call it mandatory, but I
believe it helps performance a little and it certainly makes the boat look a lot better.
It's made from 1/16" (1.5 mm) square basswood strip. Again, a lot of materials could be used, even hard balsa.
Attaching it is pretty straight forward. Starting from the transom and work your way forward along the chine
knee. At some point the knee will be less defined and you need to establish the curve more or less by eye.
When I got to this point I took aim for an imaginary point at the stem where I felt the strip made a curve that I
liked and simply followed with the CA glue. I'm sure there is a more scientific approach, but this worked well
enough for me.
I should point out that my spray strips ended up slightly off comparing left to right, but I doubt anyone will ever
notice. Below is a picture of how it ended up.
Another thing I'd like to point out is that I did the tissue-and-dope before adding the rub rail and spray strips.
The CA glue has a hard time adhering to the dense and hard lacquer finish, so I contemplated gluing the strips
first and then doing the tissue-dope.
After some valuable feedback (thanks Mike!), I'm back to the order presented here. Adding tissue after the rails
isn't just going to be a challenge getting the tissue to conform to the rails, it will also shrink and pull away
creating blisters where the planking meets the rails - so, bad idea.
I overcame the adherence issue by using baking soda as a combined kicker/filler and a lot of patience. I still
ended up with a fair share of CA on my hands, but the result feels solid, so I think it was worth it.
Personally,
I've always
been in
favor of a
simple
solution
that gets
the job
done. That's
not to say
I'd glue my
Surplus Mabuchi RE-280 to the left and Aristo-Craft RE-280 with a simple motor mount to the right.
motors into
my boats. I do appreciate the option to be able to remove or replace the motor easily, if need be.
Another thing to note is that I don't build high performance boats, so copy my rubber-band mount for your Mega
Power output brushless motor at your own peril.
My two favorite mounts are:
A homemade motor bed with the motor held in place with a rubber band.
A commercial but inexpensive motor bracket that can be bolted down from the top
I don't like face mounting my motors. Most RC boats have a direct-drive where the motor face is pointing down
towards the bilge at a shallow angle. It makes it very difficult to access the screws and almost impossible to see
what you're doing if you need to remove or reattach the motor.
A scratch built motor mount installed in the RC cabin cruiser prototype. Installing the motor before the bottom
was planked made alignment a lot easier.
For the prototype RC Cabin Cruiser I built, I ended up making the motor mount from scratch. If I had to do it
over again, I'd get the Aristo-Craft motor with the simple, but perfectly adequate motor mount included. I would
have made a simple flat piece of 1/8" (3mm) plywood with a cut-out for the keel spanning between bulkhead 2 &
3 for the mount to sit on.
Universal joint
One of the most overlooked aspects when installing a motor in a model boat is the alignment of the motor and
propeller shaft. Too many builders believe that because a compliant coupling is used having an angle between the
two shafts is OK. This is a misunderstanding.
Proper alignment between the motor and propeller shaft is paramount in model boat building. Note the scratchbuilt motor mount.
The purpose of the compliant coupling is to relieve the motor from strain and side loads due to misalignment. No
motor installation is perfect, so the misalignment that does occur should be kept to a minimum.
A model boat with a misaligned motor will suffer unnecessary power loss and shorted life of the motor and
coupling. The more power the motor generates the more important the alignment becomes. That means:
The bigger the boat, the more important alignment becomes
In effect, most effected motor types are: high performance brushed motors, all brushless and gas motors