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1. Introduction
Dimensional instability of circular weft
knitted fabrics which is a major concern in
view of knit fabric quality assurance and it is
very much influenced by loop length and its
allied geometric properties mainly and also
due to progressive relaxation states. Doyle1
Article Designation: Refereed
JTATM
Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
tightness
factor.
Schulze8
(1993)
investigated the dimensional properties of
single jersey, lacoste and fleecy fabrics
knitted with cotton - spandex yarns and
reported that the weight and loop densities
of cotton/spandex fabrics were higher than
cotton fabrics; also the extension, both
widthwise and lengthwise, increased as the
relaxation progressed. Tasmaci9 (1996)
found that variations are higher both in
width wise and in weight for the spandex
containing fabrics. Bayazit Marmarali10
(2003) investigated the dimensional and
physical properties of cotton/spandex single
jersey fabrics and the results compared with
fabrics knitted from cotton alone. They
found that the loop length and amount of
spandex are used to determine the
dimensions and properties of the knits.
Prakash and Thangamani11 (2010) observed
that the dimension of fabric showed
considerable change during wet relaxation.
Sadek et al12 (2012) studied the effect of
extension increase percent of bare lycra
yarns during loop formation on the
geometrical, physical and mechanical
properties of plain jersey fabrics. Results
showed a sharp increase in the courses
density rather than the wales density. Kumar
and Sampath13 (2013) investigated the
suitability of cotton sheath elastomeric core
spun yarn for circular knitting as an
alternative for bare spandex feeding and the
effect of loop length variables on single
jersey knitted fabrics geometric quality
attributes such as wale density, course
density, stitch density and areal density
under different states of relaxation. They
indicated that the change in loop length
values do not have any significant impact on
wale density values. At the same time, the
remaining geometric properties of the
samples were found to be inversely
proportional to the loop length values
uniformly at all the states of relaxation.
They also investigated the ability of the
samples to reach their dimensional
equilibrium state after repeated cycles of
washing and drying and reported that the
fabric samples attained a perfect state of
dimensional stability before five cycles of
JTATM
Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
Result
MCU5 / 19.28 tex
Elaspan / 40 Denier
90
10
65.16 lbs.
1920
1.1
4.47
20.52
9.04
0
14
40
54
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Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
Machine specifications
1.
Circular Knitting
2.
Make
3.
18
4.
Gauge
24
5.
No of Feeders
54
6.
Feeder Type
7.
No. of Needles
8.
Unitech, Singapore
Positive Storage
1356
4
Type of yarn
DP 1
DP 2
DP 3
Cotton sheath
elastomeric core spun
yarn
Fabric
Structure
Loop length
in cm
Tightness
Factor (K)
Double Pique
0.27
0.30
0.33
16.4
14.8
13.5
Fabric tightness factor [2] was estimated by using the following formula.
(Tex)
Tightness factor (K) = ------------------------Loop length in cm
After knitting, the grey samples were
subjected to DRS I at standard atmospheric
condition (25o 2oC and RH 65%) for 24
hours [7]. Then the geometric properties
such as wale density, course density, stitch
density, areal density were measured and
Article Designation: Refereed
(1)
JTATM
Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
Machine width
3 meters
No of Chambers
Machine Speed
3 mpm
Temperature
180oC to 200oC
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Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
IFB / Front
60
Washing temperature oC
50
Washing soap
Drying temperature oC
40 - 50
10 - 20
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Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
Double
Pique
Code
l in
cm
WPI
CPI
Kw
Kc
Ks
Kc/Kw
GSM
DP 1
0.27
32
70
3.39
7.42
2240
25.15
16.4
2.19
195
DP 2
0.30
30
60
3.54
7.06
1800
25.06
14.8
2.0
180
DP 3
0.33
28
50
3.61
6.45
1400
23.28
13.5
1.79
160
Double
Pique
Code
l in
cm
WPI
CPI
Kw
Kc
Ks
Kc/Kw
GSM
DP 1
0.27
34
72
3.6
7.63
2448
27.46
16.4
2.11
205
DP 2
0.30
32
64
3.77
7.55
2048
28.46
14.8
2.0
190
DP 3
0.33
30
53
3.87
6.83
1590
26.43
13.5
1.76
165
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Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014
Double
Pique
l in
cm
WPI CPI
Kw
Kc
Ks
Kc/Kw
GSM
DP 1
0.27
36
76
3.81
8.05
2736
30.63 16.4
2.11
230
DP 2
0.30
34
68
4.01
8.02
2312
32.16 14.8
2.0
215
DP 3
0.33
32
59
4.12
7.61
1888
31.41 13.5
1.84
195
Double
pique
Code
l in
cm
WPI
CPI
Kw
Kc
Ks
Kc/Kw
GSM
DP 1
0.27
38
80
4.03
8.48
3040
34.17
16.4
2.1
255
DP 2
0.30
36
72
4.25
8.50
2592
36.13
14.8
2.0
240
DP 3
0.33
35
65
4.52
8.38
2275
37.88
13.5
1.85
223
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4. Conclusions
12
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References
1. Doyle P J, Fundamental aspects of the
design of knitted fabrics, J. Textile Inst.,
44, 561-578 (1953).
2. Munden, D.L. , The geometry and
dimensional property of plain knitted
fabrics,
J. Textile Inst., 50, T448-T471 (1959).
3. Nuting TS and Leaf GAV A generalized
geometry of weft knitted fabrics. J. Text.
Inst. 55, 45-53 (1964).
4. Smirfitt J A, Worsted 1X1 Rib fabrics,
Part II, Some physical properties, J
Text Inst, 56, T 248-259 (a) & T 298313(b) (1965).
5. Moon Won Suh, A study of the
shrinkage of plain knitted cotton fabric,
based on the structural changes of the
loop geometry due to yarn swelling and
deswelling,
Text
Res
J., vol. 37, 5: pp. 417-431, (1967).
6. Knapton JJF, Ahrens FJ, Ingenthron
WW & Frong, The dimensional
properties of knitted wool fabrics, Part
II; 1X1, 2X2 Rib and Half Cardigan
structures, Text Res J, 38, 1013-1026
(1968).
7. Knapton
JJF,
The
wet-relaxed
dimensions of plain-knitted fabrics. J.
Text. Inst. 70 (9), 410. 7-6 (1979).
8. Schulze, U., Rechts/Links-Rundstrickbindungen in durkombination mit
Dorlastan, Wirkerei Strickerei Tech. 5,
456 (1993).
9. Tasmaci, M., Effects of Spandex Yarn
on Single Jersey Fabrics, Tekstil
Konfek, 6, 422-426 (1996).
10. Bayazit Marmarali A, Dimensional and
physical properties of cotton/spandex
single jersey fabrics, Text. Res. J. 73
(1), 11-14 (2003).
11. C. Prakash and K. Thangamani,
Establishing the effect of loop length
on dimensional stability of single jersey
knitted fabric made from cotton/lycra
core spun yarn, Indian Journal of
Article Designation: Refereed
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Volume 8, Issue 4, Spring 2014