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Tomato (latin-juicy wolf peach) is a popular, versatile, easily grown plant with a great
tasting fruit. Originally cultivated during prehistoric times by the Indians in South
America, they were long believed to be poisonous. But now tomato is the favourite of
home vegetable gardeners and is widely cultivated and used throughout the world.
Tomato is technically a fruit not a vegetable but, they belong to the vegetable garden.
This warm-season perennials have a variety of cultivars which vary in size and shape
from the tiny and sweet cherry style tomatoes to big juicy and meaty beefsteak tomatoes.
Tomatoes are consumed either cooked or raw and are low in calories and an excellent
source of Vitamins A and C. Uncooked tomatoes also provide Vitamin E.
Characteristically tomato plants are erect, branched, aromatic and covered with glandular
hairs. The base may become woody. A compound leaf has an arrangement of leaflets or
pinnae in two rows along the axis and is coarsely toothed on the edges. Yellow flowers
are borne in terminal inflorescences appearing extra-axillary or lateral. After flowering,
tomatoes require 50-60 days to reach fruit maturity. The fruit is botanically classed as a
berry. Although the full size of the fleshy fruit, called a berry, is attained in half that
time, the later stage of maturity is marked by external color change with coinciding
internal chemical changes.
Varieties
Tomatoes vary in size, taste and growth patters. Some are determinate, they grow only to
a certain height and they flower and bear fruits only within a certain period of time.
Indeterminate varieties grow, flower and set fruit over the entire growing season. Some
varieties are resistant to certain diseases indicated by one or more letters written beside
their names. Some varieties are Small Red Cherry, Large Red Cherry, Red Pear, Yellow
Pear etc which have large vines with small fruits, lemon boy, jubilee and sunray with
yellow and orange fruits, beefsteak, beef master etc with large fruits and so on.
Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted in the warm months after danger
of frost has passed. They grow, flower and produce best when they are planted in the
sunniest, hottest part of the garden.
The soil for growing tomatoes should be fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive, with
a pH in the range 5.5 7.0 and well supplied with organic matter and nutrients. Proper
preparation of soil goes a long way in helping the plant grow healthy. The soil should be
mixed with well rotted manure or other organic matter and a balanced fertilizer say 2-3
pounds per 100 square feet must be added before planting.
Plants must be kept well-watered at all times and container-grown plants in particular will
require more watering as fruit develops. Water directly to the roots and keep the soil
around moist. If possible, keep water off the leaves. Fertilize on a regular basis. Early
applications should be high in nitrogen. As blossoming occurs, switch to applications
higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. Too much nitrogen may result in lots of lush green
leaves but little fruit. Potash supply is particularly important for the development of
flavour and ensuring a healthy and good crop.
Shortly after planting, tomato plants should be given proper support by tying the plant to
a stake or by using a cage. Stakes are cheaper and they can be between 4-6 feet tall
depending on the type of tomato plant. Wire tomato cages are often used to support the
wines. When properly supported, tomatoes require a relatively small amount of space, yet
are capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds or more of fruit per plant.
Mulching will help to prevent weeds, reduce leaf diseases, it will also help the
distribution of water, and will generally make the tomato plants stronger. Mulches such
as leaves, grass clippings, compost, straw, can be spread around to enrich the soil once the
plants are set.
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• Early Blight Early Blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes.
Symptoms: Dark spots with concentric rings develop on older leaves first. The surrounding
leaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun
scald.
Management: Early Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne. It can
also come in on transplants. Remove affected plants and thoroughly clean fall garden
debris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase likelihood of attack. Copper and/or sulfur
sprays can prevent further development of the fungus. The biofungicide Serenade® lessens
problems. More info and photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
• Gray Leaf Spot Gray Leaf Spot affects only the leaves of tomatoes, starting with the
oldest leaves. Symptoms: Small, dark spots that can be seen on both the top and bottom
surfaces of the leaves. The spots enlarge and turn a grayish brown. Eventually the centers
of the spots crack and fall out. Surrounding leaf areas will turn yellow and the leaves will
dry and drop. Fruit production is inhibited.
Management: Warm, moist conditions worsen gray leaf spot problems. Remove all
affected plants and fall garden debris. Select resistant varieties. More info and photo from
Texas Cooperative Extension
• Late Blight Late blight affects both the leaves and fruit of tomatoes. Late Blight is the
disease responsible for the Irish Potato Famine. Late Blight spreads rapidly. Cool, wet
weather encourages the development of the fungus. If you suspect you have Late Blight,
contact your Local Extension Service for definite ID. Symptoms: Greasy looking, irregularly
shaped gray spots appear on leaves. A ring of white mold can develop around the spots,
especially in wet weather. The spots eventually turn dry and papery. Blackened areas may
appear on the stems. The fruit also develop large, irregularly shaped, greasy gray spots.
Management: Copper sprays offer some control. Serenade® works best as a deterrent,
rather than a cure.
The Late Blight fungus can overwinter in frost free areas. Since it spreads to potatoes, it
also overwinters in potato debris and seed, even in colder areas. Remove all debris and
don't save seed potatoes. More info and photo from Texas Cooperative Extension
• Septoria Leaf Spot Septoria Leaf Spot is sometimes mistaken for Late Blight. With
septoria leaf spot, the papery patches on the leaves develop tiny, dark specks inside them.
Older leaves are affected first.
Management: Copper sprays and Serenade® are somewhat affective at halting the spread
of symptoms. More info and photo from Cornell University Cooperative Extension
• Southern Blight Southern Blight manifests as a white mold growing on the stem near
the soil line. Dark, round spots will appear on the lower stem and both the outer and inner
stem will become discolored. Southern Blight fungus girdles the tomato stem and prevents
the plant from taking up water and nutrients. Young plants may collapse at the soil line.
Management: Crop rotation seems to help. There has also been some evidence that extra
calcium and the use of fertilizers containing ammonium offer some protection. More info
and photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
• Verticillium Wilt This name can be misleading, as sometimes the leaves will turn
yellow, dry up and never appear to wilt. Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungus
and it can affect many different vegetables. The fungus can persist in the soil for many
years, so crop rotation and selection of resistant varieties is crucial. Symptoms include:
wilting during the hottest part of the day and recovering at night, yellowing and eventually
browning between the leaf veins starting with the older, lower leaves and discoloration
inside the stems. Verticillium Wilt inhibits the plants ability to take in water and nutrients
and will eventually kill the plant. Verticillium wilt is more pronounced in cool weather.
Management: Remove affected plants and choose resistant varieties. More info and photo
from University of Minnesota Extension Service
• Bacterial Speck
• Bacterial Canker
• Late Blight
• Alternaria Canker
• Buckeye Rot
• Bacterial Spot
• Radial Cracking
• Sun Scald
• Tomato Mosaic
• Spotted Wilt
• Pinworm Damage
• Anthracnose
• Black Mold
• Sour Rot
• Alternaria Canker
• Cottony Leak
• Cloudy Spot
• Spotted Wilt