ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEA

FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

THE RAPPORT OF CLOTHINGS PRODUCTS PROPORTIONS AND

HUMAN BODY
Phds .Vladlen Babcinetchi, Prof. phd. Ing. Stan Mitu , Phds Ala Dabija
Technical University Gh.Asachi of Iasi ,Faculty of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management
Vladlen Babcinetchi , vbabcinetchi@tex.tuiasi.ro
Abstract: The use of the effectuated studies in the domain of anthropometry sustains a fundamental

element in the constructive design of clothing. The dimensions of the human body are used for
particular characterization, as well as for establishing vital statistics upon the physiological evolution
of mankind. The measurements ascertain the anthropometrical points on which it can be established
usefull proportions in many areas of activity.In the current paper the authour studied the projection of
clothing , discovering a proportioning method relyed on anthropometrical points.
Key words: : points, proportions , projection , anthropometrism, design

1. INTRODUCTION
Nowdays, the textile production has an important role in the mass consumptions sphere, on
which it can be identified an active process of generating new production structures .Various firms,
factories and companies have fulfilled clothes for the wide public, as well as for paticular
purpose( miliraty equipments, uniforms and other) , certifying the existence of many specialized
workshops that execute individual oders.The series production itself, along the retail markets
requirements has entailed an advanced technology in the companies,the producerss attention was
concentrated on making high quality products. These aspects have determined the use of a high
qualifyed personnel for using the new technology, also to quicken creating .The harsh competition of
this specific domain of clothing design strongly requires a high level criteria of the products , because
of the many specialists that work in designing , engineering, chemistry, anthropometry.The character
of the produsctis is diversified depending on their destination , the primary level in designing is to
analyse the anthropometrical data base , the technic, aesthetic,qualitative details.The series production
depends a lot on the fashions fluctuations , reaction that impower designers in establishing their own
production rhythm and the entire aspect af the clothes.The variety of clothing products is always
diversifying owing to the new types of materials, technologies and , implicitly, modern aesthetic
criteria.

2. THE DESIGN OF CLOTHING PRODUCTS BASED ON ANTHROPOMETRICAL

POINTS
2.1 The proportioning of clothing on human figure (11 pt, bold)
The human figure has always been the main study object for different sciences, ever since ancient
times . Over the decades these studies diversifyedin the rhythm of human societys evolution. The
anthropometry science , as a branch of anthropology, beside anatomy and the proportion study, offers a
substantial volume of knowledge in regarding the physiological evolution of human body.Its
dimentions are used for individual characterisation , as well as for establishing statistics on the human
races evolution, classifyed on age and geographical sections.the measurements effectuated determine

anthropometrical points on which it can be established usefull proportions in vaious domains of work.
Understanding that these points mark the extremities of the muscles and of the articulations, using the
anthropometrical studies consists a fundamental element in constructive desigh of clothing. From an
aesthetic angle , the human characterisation is being realised through the study of proportions ,
through the relation between the different parts of the body with its unit. .(Fig.1a)

Fig1a. Proportioning the human

body

Fig.1b. Proportioning the clothes

In the domain of artistical creations had appeared over the time proportional systems and specific
canons , which varies depending on the making technique . So , the Policlets seven heads canon, the
Praxitelesseight heads , the Durers canons or the Le Corbusiers Modulator , all these express
different visions , used till today in many artistic compositions, architectural projects and clothing
design (Fig.1b)

Fig.1c

Fig.1 d
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Beginning by proportioning the height of the body into eight equal segments,using as a module the
height of the head,lines of the knee , the pelvis, waistline, breasts and shoulders will be underlined ,
all these are fundamental points in designing clothes, supporting the shoulders and the waistline.These
exemples from the figures1b, 1c, 1d, 1e represent an elementary method of construction , the
clothings shapes and the sizes being established mainly by the confort factor.Using the given
proportions , clothes are obtained whom dimentions varies by its destinations (Fig.1d , Fig.1e), also
the particular aspects of the human body(Fig.1c- the length of the trousers). After that, a complex
design is instaled , using the advanced study proportion , or simultaneitly different methods of
construction.
Therefore, the assembly shape of the costume can correspond the human figure , as well as to many
elements naturally and geometrically inspired , so the clothes could be classifyed into ,,sculptural,,
and ,,decorative,, . The sculptural figures point out the shape of the human body , in this case are
underlined the qualities and the anatomical disproportions .These figures are characterised through
their volumetric expressivity and their lateral contour.The decorative figures hide the natural line of
the human body , because of the optical deformations and the compositional details , which are
completely detached from the figure. In this case the clothes will sustain the base on the shoulders.

Fig.1e
The process of constructive design of clothing contains the final form of the assembly (the figure), the
outline of the objects details as well as the achievement of the volumetric elements in the space and
relating them with the \human figure .During this process the functionality and the resistance of the
costume is very important, also the entire structure that reflects the scientific, technical and aesthetic
level of the society.
2.2.Results and work methods
Designing clothes requires a real anthropometrical data base , which achieve the standardized
dimensions of the design.Also, to sustain the aesthetic function of the designed objects, the artist uses
proportions, geometrical compositions, various types of materials and accessories.By studying
different proportion studies , we can notice the presence of the golden rapport in most of the relations
between the human bodys elements.This rapport, using Fechners studies, presents a definition of the
beauty , where its shapes and the sizes attract the attention of the eye, in the pleasant sense of the

meaning,therefore man identifies the presence of the golden section everywhere in the nature ,
architecture, art , more or less conscious of this.Analysing the main anthropometrical points of the
human figure( fig.2)proportions can be determined , to be applyed in designing clothes, therefore
achieving parallels between the created object and the human figure.

Fig.2 The main anthropometrical points of the human figure

To aesthetically obtain optimum results , the clothes projects themselves on the golden proportion .
So, it can be opting for proportioning the piece of clothing in a relation with the bodys entire height or
for applying the golden rapport between different pieces of clothing and various of its elements.
Certain anthropometrical points ascertain distances that connect in a golden rapport. Its corresponding
points will be marked on the clothes with regular and staple buttons, or other accessories, to create
interest spots into the composition of the costume.Also, certain distances and relevant segments used
to express the golden section will be marked through stitches and handpockets .(Fig 3a ,Fig.3b, Fig.4)
It is therefore established a method of projecting the clothing pieces, relyed on anthropometrical points
of the human body, so the proportioning could be effectuated in the key of the golden rapport. For the
costume expresivity , it is recommended to use various types of contrasts in its composition( line
contrasts of the surfaces, volume, colour and structure), the harmony of the assembly being
established by the practice of proportion knowledge. The model, the colours, the relations between the
shapes, as well as finding naturally the proportional relations of various elements of the clothes
depend directly on the talent and the liberty of each artist. This particular method has succeded to
attenuate the use of the human bodys elements , also obtained corresponding results of the artistical
creations.
3.CONCLUSIONS
The technological and the scientific development of the textile productions field has conditioned
the evolution of an interdisciplinary activity within the brotherhood of clothing designers, a task which
requires solid knowledge from various domains of activity.The current paper analyses the
resemblances between anthropometry and the study of proportions, making a contribution in the field
of constructive design of clothing .The conclusions of the study will be used mostly in individual
creations,intended for specialized workshops which fulfill few orders.In regarding the mass production
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FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

the marking of anthropometrical points on clothing will disappear ,for not corresponding to the
dimensional standards. The golden proportions of the clothes will remain in use , to try idealizing the
common human being.

Fig.3a

Fig.3b

Fig.4

4.REFERENCES
[1]Stan Mitu ,Mihaela Mitu The technological concepts of clothing design , vol.1 ,
Edited by Gh.Asachi ,Iasi , 1998, ISBN 973-9178-59-6
[2] Emilia Filipescu Antropomorphological guide lines in designing man clothes ,
Edited by Performantica , Iasi , 2003,ISBN 973-7994-27-2
[3]H.E.Timerding The golden section , Edited by URSS, Moscow , 2008,
ISBN 978-5-397-00006-2