Name of Topic :-

SEWING MACHINE

Problem Definition :In this report we have to study the Introduction,

Specification, Construction and Working of
SEWING MACHINE.

Objectives :1)
2)
3)
4)
5)

Description.
Specifications .
Construction .
Working.
Applications.

Description :-

Introduction

A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and

other materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the
first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed
in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine,
generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in
1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of
the clothing industry.

Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual
items while using a single stitch type. In a modern sewing machine the fabric
easily glides in and out of the machine without the inconvenience of needles
and thimbles and other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process of
stitching and saving time.

Principle of Sewing Machine :Any mechanical or electromechanical device used for

fastening of cloth, leather, furs, and other flexible materials,
using needle and thread.

Types of Sewing Machine :1) Mechanical Sewing Machines,

2) Electronic Sewing Machines,
3) Computerized Sewing Machine.

Specification
Basic Parts of a Sewing Machine and Their
Functions :The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is
hand-operated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The basic
parts of a sewing are listed below and seen in Fig.

Parts of a Sewing Machine

1)
2)

Spool pin

:- It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.

Thread guide :- It holds the thread in position from the spool to the
needle.

3) Tension

disc :- The two concave discs put together with the

convex sides facing each other. The thread
passes between the two. The tension of the
thread is adjusted by a spring and nut
which increases or decreases pressure.

4) Take

up lever :- It Is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its up and

down motion feeds the thread to the needle and
tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.

5) Needle

bar :-

This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with

the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give
motion to the needle.

6) Bobbin

case :-

This moves into position to catch the top thread and

form the stitch as the needle is lowered Into the
bobbin chamber.

7) Presser

foot :-

It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in

position when lowered.

8) Presser

foot lifter:- A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and
lowering the presser foot.

9) Stitch

regulator :- This controls the length of the stitch.

10) Bobbin

winder:- A simple mechanism used for winding thread on

the bobbin.

11) Fly

Wheel:-

When this is made to revolve, it works the

mechanism of the motion.

12) Clutch

or Thumb Screw :- This is in the center of the fly wheel and

it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.

13) Slide

Plate:-

A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of

the bobbin case without lifting the machine.

14) Needle

Plate or Throat Plate:- A semi-circular disc with a hole to

allow the needle to pass through it.

15) Feed

dog:-

This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the

needle plate. It helps to move the cloth forward

while sewing.

16) Face

plate:-

A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling

points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up.

17) Spool

pin for bobbin winding :- Spool of thread is placed on this at the

time of bobbin winding.

Construction

Working
The mechanism of a sewing machine can be divided into the four areas:
1. MOTIVE SOURCE
2. STITCH FORMATION
3. FABRIC MOVEMENT
4. THREAD CONTROL

Bobbin winding is in the nature of an add-on activity, covered by its own

section. All the illustrations in this section are of a Model 66 or 99. Variations for
other model s are described in the sections dealing with the individual features.

1. MOTIVE SOURCE
Whether hand driven or powered by an electric motor or treadle belt,
the connection to the machine is the balance wheel. This serves to even out any
lumpiness in the machine to give a smooth action.

2. STITCH FORMATION
Needle movement :The rotating driveshaft in the arm of the machine connects to the needle
bar through levers in the head to produce the up and down movement of the
needle. The sewing machine needle is a highly sophisticated piece of design which
we look at in detail on the following page.

Stitch making :The drive shaft has a vertical crank attached to it, going down under
the base plate. Again, by a series of levers, this connects to a hook ring. The hook
ring picks up the upper thread and guides it round the bobbin holding the lower
thread. Using the up and down movement of the needle and the rotation of the
hook ring the two threads are looped together to form the stitch.
The hook ring crankshaft links with levers to turn the hook ring below
the base plate in a part circle......and the hook picks up the loop made by
the needle. These levers convert the revolution of the drive shaft...into the up and
down movement of the needle bar. Rotating driveshaft Rotating drive shaft,
Needle bar, Hook Ring, Crank Hook Ring.

The Needle :The needle used in most of the domestic machines we handle has the
following features:
A flat side at the top end to secure it to the needle bar. (inter lockers and some
industrials use round needles).
On the same side of the needle, a thinning of the needle just above the eye.
On the opposite side of the needle, a groove runs from near the top, down to
the eye.

When the needle pierces the fabric on the down stroke, the thread
on one side will lie in the groove. When the needle starts to rise again, the thread
in the groove rises with it, but on the other side, the thread is pinched between
the cloth and the side of the needle.
This friction against the fabric causes the thread to be retarded and a
loop is formed just above the eye of the needle. The upward stroke of the needle
creates the crucial moment in the sewing cycle and, as you can see from the
illustration, the action takes place beneath the cloth.

The Hook Ring :

As the hook ring turns in its part circles, the hook picks up the loop
made by the needle and drags it round the lower bobbin. The thread then slips
off the hook and, as the needle bar rises, is pulled round the lower bobbin to make
the stitch. On the far right, you can see that the bobbin thread has been encircled
by the stitch loop formed by the top thread.

This action in the stitch cycle is the most important combination of

movements performed by the machine. And yet, at normal sewing speed, it only
takes about a fifth of a second to complete, which is approximately the time
required to wink your eye. Accurate synchronization (or timing) between the
simultaneous tasks of stitch formation is essential for the machine to work. If you
thread up a machine, and sew a few stitches slowly on the edge of a piece of
cloth with the cover plate open, you can see this stitch formation for yourself.
3. FABRIC MOVEMENT
At each revolution of the machine the teeth of the feed dog rises lightly
above the base plate. The teeth grip the under side of the cloth and feed it
forward a tiny measured amount determined by the setting of the stitch length
regulator. The movement of the feed dog is generated through yet more levers,
from another vertical shaft working from the drive shaft.

Fabric control:
The fabric is held tight during stitching by the presser foots queezing the
fabric against the teeth of the feed dog or the throat plate while the feed dog is
below the plate. The amount of pressure can be regulated by the presser
regulating screw on top of the head and released completely by raising the presser
bar lifter.

While the needle and thread penetrate the fabric, the feed dog is still
and the fabric is held between the presser foot and the throat plate, keeping it
taut. As the needle descends, so does the feed dog. Fig 1
As the needle is coming up out of the fabric, the feed dog is moving
back . The fabric is still held between the presser foot and the throat plate.
Fig.2

As the needle continues to move up, and to bring the stitch with it, the
feed dog is also moving up towards the fabric. The fabric is still held between
the presser foot and the throat plate.Fig.3
As the stitch is being set, the feed dog rises above the throat plate, and
its teeth moves the fabric forward by one stitch length.Fig.4
4. THREAD CONTROL
Stitch tension:
The tightness of the stitch is controlled by two different tension mechanisms:
(1) The bobbin has a small spring on its case, which delivers the thread under a
slight tension.
(2) The main tension mechanism is on the upper thread, on the head of the
machine. The thread passes between two saucer shaped discs. The pressure between
the discs can be varied by the tension regulating thumb nut.
(3) The upper tension is released completely when the presser bar lifter is raised.
The lifter presses on a pin which in turn pushes the discs apart. When the tension
is released the fabric can be removed easily.

Slack thread lever:

While the upper thread is being taken round the lower bobbin it
is making a large loop.
(4) To provide sufficient thread for this loop (not under tension) the thread take up
lever on the head travels downwards, rising again to pull the stitch tight.

Thread take up spring:

As the slack thread lever reaches the top of its travel, the feed dog
is also moving forward t o make the stitch.

Conclusion:In this way we conclude our by knowing , understanding

and learning about Mechanism used in SEWING MACHINE.

Participents :Name

Roll

Sign

No.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)

Pawar Amrut
Pawar Avinash
Pawar Shubham
Pawar Vasudev
Amit Prajapati

122
123
124
127
129

Report Accepted / Rejected

Subject Teacher :- prof. I. I. Sayyad
Sign :HOD :- Dr. A. G. Thakur
Sign :-