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18

ARTS

Weekend Witness

November 29, 2014

WhipuparealDurbsdish
KwaZuluNatalisSAshomeofcurriesandDurbanistheonlycitywithitsownsignaturedish
I WAS recently given Durban Curry
(PawPawPublishers).Itisthemostfan
tastic recipe book just one look at
ithadmerushingtothekitchentowhip
up a real Durban dish.
The book oozes KwaZuluNatal on
everypage.Afterallthisisourcountrys
homeofcurriesandDurban,asfaras
Imaware,istheonlycityinSouthAfri
ca with its own signature dish.
Manyvisitorscomehereforthesea
andsunshine,whileothersareherefor
ourcurries.NotehereIusetheplural
thereisnotonestandardDurbancur
ry. There is a variety from which to
choose.
Acluetoknowingthisbookissome
thing really special is that, with Devi
SankareeGovender,itswrittenbythe
incrediblyenergeticeditor/writerErica
Platter;andtalentedphotographer/de
signerClintonFriedmantookthepic
tures.
Their East Coast Tables as well as
EastCoastTables:TheInlandEdition
were highly successful.
Everygoodcookandeventhenot
so good should have these books.
Theycelebratelocalrecipesthathave
asimplefamilystatusaswellasthose
onamoresophisticatedrestaurantlev
el. All the recipes tell a story and get
totheheartofthedish.Clintonseye
for perfection and Ericas determina
tion to get the answer will certainly
move you as they did me.
Firstupisatimelessclassicsays
bankingexecutiveDeenaNaidoo,win
nerofSouthAfricasfirstMasterChef
South Africa competition.

Jackie Cameron
Visit www.jackiecameron.co.za to find out more about her womens chef
range (mens to come shortly), Jackie Cameron Cooks at Home, and all
her foodie adventures.
Contact her at jackie@jackiecameron.co.za for information on Jackie
Cameron School of Food and Wine in Hilton. For the latest on local
foodie news, add her as a friend on Facebook, follow her on Twitter
@jackie_cameron and check out Instgram jackiecameronincolour
All recipes and photos in this article were supplied courtesy of the
Durban Curry recipe book.
Itisasuperbexampleofthetypeof
dishthatdistinguishesDurbanIndian
cooking;elevatingthehumblestingre
dients with meticulous but adventur
ous spicy flavours.
Nosetotaileating(acontemporary
cheffytrend)isoldhattoChatsworth
bornandbred Naidoo. His sheeps
trottersandsugarbeancurryisasclose
asanyonecangettoIndianSouthAfri
canononeplate.NaidooandIwerein
constantcontactbeforehewonMaster
Chef and I have so enjoyed watching
himbringhispersonalitytothetable
nevershiftingfromwhoheis.When
it comes to food he is Mr Integrity.
ImetFatimaStanleywhenIjoined
the South African Chefs Association
committeemanyyearsback.Itisclearly
evidentthatsheispartofalargefamily
(first born of seven) because, for her,

nothing is ever too much trouble.


Herfriendlinessandwilltohelpout
are inspiring. She has run top hotel
kitchens, her own catering company,
and was principal of Zen Africa chefs
school.
Herlatestventure,whichIfindexcit
ing,istheMasterChefCulinaryAcade
my. This is a skills kitchen where she
trains disadvantaged youngsters from
theWentwortharea,whichiscloseto
her home on the Bluff in Durban.
Fatimaisallaboutgivingback.Per
hapsshespayingitforwards?Ifshesays
thisbeefcurryisfabulous,thenrestas
sureditis.IlookforwardtoFatimalend
ingthathelpinghandatJackieCamer
on School of Food & Wine.
Next up is from the queen of pre
serves,CindyValayadam,whosepickles
andpreservesflyofftheshelvesather

buzzingUmhlaliFreshProduceshopto
tablesaroundthecountryandabroad.
Mostoftheitemsaremadewithingre
dientsgrownonthenearbyfamilyfarm.
ImreluctanttoadmitIhavenever
visitedCindysshop,butrecentlyGe
orgeandLouiseJardine,ofJardineRes
taurantonJordansWineEstateinStel
lenbosch,cametoKwaZuluNataland
the Midlands.
Theirdesiretoexploreledthemto
Umhlali Fresh Produce and at dinner
oneeveningtheysharedCindyspickle
garlicinroastedbroccoliwithme.The
recipe I have included baby brinjal
pickle is as delicious.
The sides section of this recipe
bookisdrivingmytastebudsintofood
frenzy!ItcameasasurprisetofindSha
menReddisbraisedraitainthebook.
ItstheonlyMidlandsrecipefeatured,
as far as Im aware.
Ithighlightsbraisingcarrotsandthat
thispracticetransformsthemfromor
dinarytospecial.ShamensImpulseby
theSea,atTinleyManorBeach,isre
nownedforitscrabcurriesaswellas
itswarm,familyambience.Hercurryis
featuredonthecoverofDurbanCurry.
I met Linda Govender a few years
backwhenIwonmyfirstTop10fine
diningawardandshewonTop10casual
dining. She and her husband, Russell
Burger,ownSpiceanditwasalwaysa
treattovisitthereandexperiencetheir
cleveruseofspicesneveroverpower
ing but always evident.
SpiceonthebeachatWestbrookwas
adreamthatbecamerealityandLinda
iscookinginhersignaturestyleup

dating classics, reinventing local fla


voursand,Ibelieve,goingfarbeyond
thecurriestomappingamodernspice
route of her own.
Her cauliflower and potato curry
withpeasismykindofdinner.Giveme
vegetables any day of the week.
AshaMaharajisanameandfacewe
all recognise. She is a nationally re
nownedIndiancookeryauthoritywho
travelsthecountryasahomeecono
mistforTasticRice;hostsamagazine
programme on Radio Lotus; demon
stratesonTV;haswrittenfivebooks,
includingabestselleronegglessbaking;
and, since 2000, written the hugely
popularcookerypagesintheExtrasec
tion of the Sunday Times.
Shemaintainsthesecretofagood
Durban curry is paying attention to
spicing;thereisadifferentmasalafor
each curry.
ImhappythatAshacookswithghee
becauseitremindsmetodothisagain
somethingIhaventdoneforyears.
IsuggestyoutryAshnasbananakebabs
in curried gravy.
This story book about food docu
ments Erica and Clintons quest to
identifytheDNAofinnovativeDurban
dishes.IapplaudtheteamatPawPaw
Publishersforatrulyspecialgem.Close
familyandfriendscanexpectittobe
in their Christmas stockings.
Meanwhile,Ilookforwardtospend
ing time with my copy and learning
moreaboutDurbansspicyheroesand
heroines.
Hereistocelebratinglocalbecause
it is truly lekker!

RECIPESTAKENFROMDURBANCURRY

byEricaPlatterandClintonfriedman,withDeviSankareeGovender
SHAMENREDDISBRAISEDRAITA

LINDASCAULIFLOWERANDPOTATOCURRY
WITHPEAS

1 carrot, grated
1 Tbsp oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1/1 tsp turmeric
red onion, chopped
1 cup buttermilk

1 fresh cauliflower cut into medium florets


2 large potatoes peeled, cubed
1/3 cup oil (olive or sunflower)
tsp cumin seeds
1 bay leaf
2 heaped tsp finest curry powder (medium)
tsp turmeric
tsp ground cardamom
1 stalk fresh curry leaves
2 medium onions, sliced
1 cup green peas
salt
cup water
Few springs fresh dhania

METHOD
Gently fry the carrot in oil. Add seeds,
continue frying until they pop. Add tur
meric, stir well. Take off heat, add on
ion. Stir mixture into buttermilk.

METHOD
Clean cauliflower, set aside with potato. Heat
oil, toss in cumin, bay leaf, curry powder, tur
meric, cardamom and curry leaves. Stir to
gether. Rapidly add onions, cook until trans
lucent. Add cauliflower, potato and peas (if
you are using fresh peas; if frozen, add later,
five minutes before end of cooking). Season
to taste with salt. Add water, mix gently.
Simmer until cauliflower and potatoes are
cooked. If using frozen peas, add about five
minutes before you judge the potatoes will
be done. Scatter with fresh coriander. Serve
with basmati rice or rolled in a roti.

Shamen Reddis Braised Raita.


PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

Lindas Cauliflower and Potato


Curry with Peas.
PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

November 29, 2014

Weekend Witness

ARTS

DEENASSHEEPSTROTTERSANDSUGARBEANSCURRY
600g lamb/sheep trotters, cleaned
and brushed
2 l water
1 tsp salt
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
3 bay leaves
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp garam masala
Pinch of clove powder or 2 whole
cloves
1 tbsp each ground ginger and
garlic

corporate all the spices into the


liquid.
Cover and simmer for 1 to 2
hours, topping up the water after
every 15 mins.
When done, the trotters should
be tender to the touch, meat and
skin falling off the bone. Reserve
cooking liquid.

METHOD
Place trotters in large pot. Com
pletely submerge in boiling water.
Add all the seasoning and spices.
Bring to boil, stirring well to in

METHOD
Place all ingredients in pot. Bring to
boil. Reduce heat, cover, simmer
until beans are soft. Remove from
heat and allow to cool. Reserve

SUGAR BEANS
250ml (1 cup) dried sugar beans
1 tsp salt
1 tsp turmeric powder
1litre (4 cups) water

cooking liquid.
DHAL
cup pea dhal
cup gram dhal
1 red chilli
1 tsp salt
1 tsp turmeric powder
2 cloves garlic
1 litres of water
METHOD
Mix all ingredients in large pot.
Pour in 4 cups of water, bring to
boil, stirring occasionally.
Cover and simmer until dhal is
soft. Remove from heat. Remove
dhal and allow to cool. Reserve
cooking liquid.
BRAISED CHUTNEY
4 tbsp oil

ASHASBANANAKEBABSINCURRIEDGRAVY
6 green bananas
cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 Tbsp fresh coriander,
chopped
2 Tbsp mint, chopped
4 spring onions, sliced
Salt
Flour for dusting
Ghee for shallow frying
CURRIED GRAVY
12 Tbsp ghee
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black mustard seeds
A few curry leaves
1 medium onion, chopped
2 green chillies, sliced
1 tsp garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp mixed masala
1 cup tomato, grated
1 tsp sugar
Salt
cup water
Chopped coriander for
garnish

FINAL ASSEMBLY OF CURRY


2 tsp garam masala
Salt to taste
Fresh coriander, chopped
METHOD
Mix dhal, sugar beans, and all re
served liquids.
Add trotters. Gently ladle this in
to chutney. Return to stove, sim
mer on medium heat 3040 min
utes. Sprinkle in garam masala.
Season with salt if required. Gar
nish with coriander.
Serve with rice.

FATIMASFABULOUSBEEFCURRY

2 Tbsp olive oil


Aromatics: 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves,
tsp fennel seeds
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1Tbsp fresh ginger, minced
2 green chillies, sliced lengthwise
1 tsp fresh thyme
5 curry leaves
2 Tbsp medium curry powder
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
400g beef fillet, cubed
250ml tomato puree
250g chickpeas, cooked
Fresh coriander, chopped
Salt to taste

MasterChef South Africa


winner, Deena Naidoo.
PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

GRAVY
Heat ghee, add seeds and
curry leaves. as they pop,
add onion, chilli, garlic.
Cook until soft. Add rest of
ingredients, cook until thick,
about 10 mins.

Ashas Banana Kebabs in


Curried Gravy.
PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

CINDYSSUPERSIMPLEBABYBRINJALPICKLE
500g baby brinjals
1 cup water
1 cup vinegar
1 tsp salt
1 cup sunflower oil
3 Tbsp pickle (methi) masala
1 tsp turmeric
2 tsp crushed ginger and garlic
Salt to taste

garlic. Continue to saut. Add curry


leaves, tomato, turmeric powder,
mixed masala, thyme. Cover, sim
mer 34 minutes. Remove pot from
heat.

Fatimas Fabulous Beef Curry.


PHOTO: DURBAN CURRY

KEBABS
Rinse unpeeled bananas,
cover in water and boil for
20 minutes. Drain, cool,
peel and grate.
Add remaining ingredients,
excluding flour and ghee.
Mix well. Divide into eight
to 10 equal portions and
roll into balls. Dust lightly
with flour. Fry in ghee until
lightly browned.

TO SERVE
Spoon gravy over kebabs.
Serve on, or wrapped in,
rotis, garnished with corian
der leaves.

1 stick cinnamon
tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
2 bay leaves
1 large onion, finely diced
1 green chilli, sliced
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp garlic, crushed
1 sprig curry leaves
2 tomatoes, grated
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tbsp mixed masala
2 tsp fresh thyme
METHOD
Heat oil and cinnamon stick in
large pot. Add mustard seeds and
curry leaves, allow seeds to pop.
Add fennel seeds, bay leaves and
onion, continue to fry until onion
turns golden.
Stir in chilli, ground ginger and

METHOD
Remove stems from brinjals. Slit brinjals
twice, lengthways, keeping intact at stem
end. Blanch in boiling water, vinegar and
salt for 10 minutes. Drain. Heat oil. Add
blanched brinjal, masala, turmeric, ginger
and garlic, salt to taste. Gently mix in, on
the stove. Pack in glass bottles. Leave for a
week before serving.

METHOD
Put oil in a large saucepan, over moderate
heat. Add aromatics and onion. Cook, stir
ring occasionally, until translucent: about
five mins. Add garlic, ginger, chillies, thyme
and curry leaves. Cook, stirring, for one
minute. Add curry powder, coriander and
cumin powders. Cook for one minute.
Add meat to pan. Cook, stirring, until all
spices have combined. Add tomato puree,
some chopped coriander, salt to taste. Al
low to cook gently for about 15 to 20 min
utes on moderate heat.
Lastly add chickpeas, allow to cook
through for five minutes. Garnish with cori
ander sprigs. Serve with basmati rice, roti
and sambals.

19

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