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ECHNICAL ARTICLE
Present work deals with various application of natural dyes on substrates such as
cotton silk and nylon. Different properties such as colour fastness, rubbing fastness
and light fastness were evaluated and compared with the conventional dye textile
materials.
1.0 INTRODUCTION
Colour in ancient times was considered a spiritual necessity
of equal importance to the physical needs of food. So in
every civilization from remote ages to the present day the art
of dyeing has played an important role in adding beauty to
the world. India was once known as a leading source of the
earliest natural origin which is classified as vegetable, mineral or animal and were abundantly used by primitive people
and were in vogue until the middle of the nineteenth century.
Prior to the invention of synthetic dyes in 1856, all colouring
matters were extracted from the naturally available materials.
Though India was known as a leading source of the earliest
natural dyes, but interest in natural dyes declined as efforts
were directed towards developing and manufacturing new
synthetic dyes.
Dyeing makes an important contribution to fabric decoration
by producing many beautiful colors and the colour harmonies obtained by a combination of various dyeing methods.
Soon the synthetic dyes started replacing the natural ones as
the synthetic dyes were brighter, faster, intensive and cheap.
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The colors are gentle, soft, subtle and create a restful effect.
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Better bio-degradability and generally higher compatibility with the Environment and also act as manure enriching the soil.
They also have lower toxicity and are non-allergic and
non-carcinogenic.
They save energy because the raw materials are not
from petroleum.
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4.1 MORDENTING
These are used to get red and maroon shade for cotton
products. Aal Root contains the main color pigment
Morindone. Other pigments presence in Aal Root are
Asperuloside, Damncanthal, Glycosides, Morindiol, Morindie,
etc. Aal Root belongs to mordent class of dyes. But simply
mordant it cannot be fixed on cotton, it needs a special
process of traditional system of dyeing. Which are as follows:
4.2 APPLICATION
Cellulose fiber have no direct affinity to natural dyes. So, at
first, mordant has to be made. The final mordent material is
treated in the aqueous extract of the natural dye solution at
specific temperature, for specific period. The dye is absorbed
and fixed with the help of the metallic ions, forming dyemetal ions lakes. The lakes obtained by the reaction between
the metal ions attached to the fibre and ionic bonds or bicoordinate bonds mainly form mordant natural dyes. After
dyeing the materials are required to be rinsed with cold
water. The colors are built up according to the use of the
selective metallic ions from different metal salts. The final
dyed material should always to be washed with non-ionic
liquid detergent to remove the surface colors and to improve
Treatment with oil Treatment with cowdung Treatment with alkaline solution of burnt wood ash Dyeing
with Aal Root powder.
1.5 kg yarn is soaked in water, squeezed and then treated
with half kg of caster oil for 20-30 min. For 1.5 kg of yarn,
about 2-3 kg of cowdung is necessary. Thick paste of fresh
cowdung is prepared with water and oil treated yarns is
impregnated with cowdung paste. Then is dried under sun.
A clear decanted alkaline solution is prepared by boiling
charcoal ash(burnt wood). For 1.5 kg of yarn, about 25 liters
of alkaline solution is prepared. The dried yarn after impregnating with cow dung is further treated with the said alkaline
solution for 15-20 mins and then dried under the sun, till
brown color is developed in the yarn within 8-10 days. Aal
dye solution is prepared by boiling the Aal root or bark with
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water and the above said treated yarn is dyed with the Aal
root solution until the desired color of the yarn is developed,
dyeing process is repeated 2-3 times till the desired shade
is obtained.
10-15 days for this dyeing process from grey yarn to dyed
stage, enhance the dyeing cost per bundle of 4.0 to 5.0 kg
of yarn. Again, the dyeing process it self involves harsh treatment like oiling and cow dung treatment, thus only coarse
yarn up to 20s count are dyed, as fine yarn cannot withstand
such harsh actions.
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Onion Peels
Lichen (Gold)
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Coffee Grinds
Acorns (Boiled)
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Peach
COLORANTS
BOTANICAL
NAMES
EXTRACTED
COLORS
Rose (Hips)
01.
Logwood
Haematoxylon
Campechianum
Black
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Indigo
Indigofera Blue
Tinctoria
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Madder
Delonich Regia
Chokecherries
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Madder
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Rangan
Ixora Aurantiaca
Red
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Turmeric
Curcuma Longa
Yellow
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Tea Leaf
Camellia Siencis
Blackish Brown
07.
Anar
Punican Granetum
Brownish Pink
Grapes
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Aparajita
Clitoria Tarnatea
Blue
Blue Berries
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Arjuna Bark
Terminalia Arjuna
Reddish Pink
Elder Berries
Cherries (Roots)
6.1 MORDANTING
Natural dyes require mordant to give substance which combines with dye to render it insoluble. This is generally a
metallic salt which has an affinity for both the coloring matter and the fiber. Generally substantive natural dyes do not
require mordant unlike the adjective ones. Some common
mordant are:-
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Deep Orange
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8.0 CONCLUSIONS
Unlike the non-renewable petrochemical source of synthetic
dyes, the natural dyes are renewable, biodegradable and
eco-friendly, non-hazardous and its wet and light fastness is
satisfactory but the present production of natural dyes all
over the world is only 1% of the synthetic dyes consumption
because they are difficult to standardize the receipe and
method. The use of natural dyes and applications of natural
dyes are sometimes expensive and time consuming process.
The colour fastness of cotton materials dyed with natural
dyes showed rating as moderate to good in the case of
Turmeric. The rubbing fastness of all dyeing showed moderately to good except in the case of Turmeric and dry condition in rubbing proved better than wet fastness. Light fastness
for all the dyed materials remained poor even after treatment
with a cationic dye-fixing agent.
The dyes extracted from the Jatropha seeds have range of
bright, soft, even and lustrous colours on silk fabrics. The important advantage of this dye is applicability to small scale
and cottage scale industries. The dyeing of Eri silk with
Turmeric dyes by treating with different mordant improved the
colour fastness properties. Natural dyes may be regarded as
myth since synthetic chemicals assist their applications.
Dyeing Nylon with natural dyes exhibited exceptional fastness to light and washing. The colours are succeptble to light
dyed with natural dyes by optimizing the conditions of dyeing, i.e pH, temperature, time, etc.
REFERENCES
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A. Gogoi, S. S. Ahmed & N. B. Barua, Ind. Text. J. Vol. 107, No. 11, Aug. 1997.
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TECHNICAL DATA
Space
Size (cm)
Rate (Rs)
(Per insertion)
Overall Size
Print Area
: 28 cm x 21.5 cm
: 23 cm x 17.5 cm
Back Cover
23 x 17.5
6,000.00
Type of Printing
: Offset
Inside Cover
23 x 17.5
5,000.00
23 x 17.5
3,000.00
Progressive
23 x 17.5
4,000.00
Proofs
23 x 17.5
5,000.00
28 x 38
8,000.00
REBATE
Inside Cover
23 x 17.5
5,000.00
23 x 17.5
2,500.00
11 x 17.5
1,500.00
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