Pack 8

Rain Gutter Regatta

5/19/2008 6:00 p.m.

Rules & Regulations

Tigers, Wolves, Bears and Webelos..... Fill up your lungs with good
clean air!!!
Once again it's time for the annual Pack 8 Rain Gutter Regatta!!!

When Do We Race?
5/19/2008 @ 6:00 pm

Who Can Race?

We divide the Cub Scouts by rank: Tiger, Wolf, Bear, and Webelos.

Who Builds The Boat?

The Scout and adult should make the boat together as a project!

What Are The Rules?

The rules are listed here. READ THEM. FOLLOW THEM!

What is a Raingutter Regatta?

The Raingutter Regatta is similar to the Pinewood Derby or the Space

Derby except that the models are small sailboats. These sturdy crafts
sail the placid waters of a 10-foot length of raingutter filled with water.
And providing the propulsion for these trusty crafts is all the hot air
your scout can generate! Even though the course is only 10 feet long
and the ships are a mere 6 inches long, the race is a very exciting
event.

Much simpler to construct than Pinewood Derby's, Scouts will get to

build their own boats using The Official Cub Scout Raingutter Regatta
Kit. The kit comes pre-cut and is ready for immediate sanding,
assembly, painting and decorating. Boys should be supervised, and
younger boys may need assistance from parents or other family
members.

Boat Specifications: (These are standard)

1. The boat must be newly built for the current Cub Scouting year.
The Scout should substantially build the boat. Parental
supervision in the construction of the boat is encouraged. The
boat should be assembled from the B.S.A. Raingutter Regatta Kit
parts only. Additional decals, paint, and glue are permitted.
2. Overall width shall not exceed 1.875 inches.
3. Overall length from bow to stern (including rudder) shall not
exceed 7.00 inches, nor shorter than 6.50 inches
4. The mast can be no taller than 6.50 inches from the deck surface
5. Weight shall not exceed 1.25 ounces (35.43 grams).
6. The boat must have a single hull.(All catamarans will be
disqualified.)
7. The sail must be the one supplied with the B.S.A. Raingutter
Regatta Kit. The sail may be trimmed and shaped, but may not
be larger than the material supplied.
8. The keel and rudder may be glued anywhere on the bottom of
the boat, but cannot exceed 7.00 inches in overall length

Building Instructions:
 • Sandpaper the balsa hull to the desired shape, adhering to the
specifications listed above. First use a medium-grade sandpaper,
then finish off with very fine sandpaper.
• Give model two coats of sanding sealer which can be obtained at
a craft or hobby store.
• Mast can be tapered by using either a hand or electric drill. While
you carefully turn the dowel, work a piece of sandpaper back
and forth until the desire shape is achieved.
• Give entire model two coats of colored lacquer

Design Tips:

Balance vs. Weight

Where your boat balances determines how well your boat deals with
waves and staying on the surface of the water. If the weight is too far
forward, the bow of your boat will get swamped when it meets the
waves (ripples). Too far back, and unnecessary water drag can
develop or it can "wheelie" right over on its back. If your sail is at the
rear of your boat, make it float with its nose up about 1/2-inch above
the waterline when NOT being blown.

Less works Best

It's best to design your boat to weigh as little as allowed by your
regulations. Heavier boats may not hydroplane; they have to move
water out of the way with their hulls. Even if they do hydroplane, you
have to blow harder to go the same speed. There is some evidence
though, that 1/8-ounce may be too light - the boat loses too much
momentum when you take a breath. When floating, a 6-inch regatta
boat sinks about an eighth of an inch (draft) for each ounce of weight.
To control the weight and its placement in your boat, make the boat as
light as possible. Use free weights to concentrate the weight where it
is needed. For a 1-ounce boat, a few pennies works great (there are
about 11 pennies to the ounce). Use modeling clay for small weight
adjustments - it's waterproof. Express your theme with deck figures or
build up structures and it may be possible not to use weights at all.

Balance
For any kind of boat, make the balance point low in the hull to guard
against capsizing. This means placing free weight low in the hull. If
your weight is too far above the waterline, your boat will become
"wobbly" or unstable. If the balance point is too far back, the boat may
flip backward hitting a wave. Too far forward, it'll get swamped by
waves or be hard to hydroplane.
Testing:
Don't be afraid to take your boat out for a quick spin! The
professionals use wave tanks; I know my son regularly creates his own
'wave tank' in the tub! After all...who doesn't like a toy to play with in
the bathtub. So let him get it wet and see how it floats!

"Well blow me down"...the raingutter.

Sounds simple huh. Well, even the best-balanced vessel won't get very
far without the proper application of wind.

It's all about the 5 S'es

• Blow Strongly, but not so hard that you drive the bow of the
boat down into the water.
• Use a Steady flow of air. You will notice that it's a lot easier to
keep the boat moving than it is to have it start and stop. Practice
taking long breaths and blowing for a long time. Short breaths
waste energy getting the boat to overcome water resistance.
• Concentrate your breath into a narrow Stream of air. Either use
a straw (a big fat one works best) or purse your lips tightly as
you blow.
• Tip your head Sideways and put your head as close to the
water as possible. This makes sure your long steady breath will
push the boat forward; not downward.
• Blow Straight! By watching an object immediately at the end of
the gutter and always pointing your head toward it as you move
down the gutter your boat won't zig zag it's way down the
course.

Unverified speed tips. Use at your own risk!

• Waxing your hull reduces water resistance.

• A little daub of vaseline below the waterline reduces water
resistance.
• Try not to accidentally create any waves/ripples in your
raingutter.
• Don't be tempted to round your hull. A round hull may cut
through the water better, but it will also decrease stability.
• Trim your sails. Literally! Try different size and shape sails you
cut from paper before cutting your official sail.
• Be patient! If you puff and pant without paying attention to the
'blowing' tips above all that will happen is you will
hyperventilate!
Decorating:
Decorating is left to the imagination of the scout. Feel free to apply
decals, flags, tiny figures, or whatever as long as they are securely
fastened to the vessel. If you choose to spray paint your sail be
warned that over spraying will likely cause cracking and peeling.

Race Procedure and Rules:

1. Races will be run by den, so only boys of the same age compete
against each other. Two boys will race against each other at a
time.
2. All competition will be run on a system of double elimination.
3. Timing of boats will have no bearing in determining heat or final
winner.
4. Winners of first heats will compete against each other in a
second heat, third heat, etc., until a final winner is determined.
5. At the start of each race: Rain gutter skippers must hold their
boats against the back of the gutter until the official gives the
starting signal.
6. When the starter says go, the boys will propel the boats
by blowing on the sail only using their straw (provided).
7. After a race has begun, sailors may not touch their boats.
8. If a racer touches a boat after the start of a race he will be
warned once. If he wins the race after touching his boat the race
will be re-run. If he needs to be warned a second time he will be
disqualified.
9. If a boat gets stuck, a race official can correct the
problem. If the problem is considered the fault of the track, the
race can be restarted.
10. If there is a tie, those boats will race again.
11. We will have 2 judges; one for each gutter. The judge will
determine fouls and jointly with the other lane judge determine
winners.
12. The judge's decision is final.