(ii)Optimum input

tension :
i
T
=
textex pergms
1.0
= 0.1

22 = 2.2 grams(iii)Runin and Run- in ratio: The

optimum
conditions for knit ability
occurs attightness factor, K =

15.(a)As the Punto-di-roma

structure (Fig. 14.6) is made
up from both Rib and Plain
knitsonly, the difference in
Tightness K between these two
units is approximately 20%i.e.,
plain
K
= 16.2 and
rib
K
= 13.8 Now, the respective loop
lengths are calculated as,
p
l

=
p
K tex
=
2.1671.4
= 0.291 cm
r
l
=
r
K tex
=
8.1371.4
= 0.342 cmReferring the Puntodi-roma structure,When knitting

with dial and cylinder

needles (feeder 1 and 2) the
course length,
r
L
= n.
r
l
When knitting with dial or
cylinder needles (feeder 3, 4)
the course length,
p
L
= n.
p

l
Where n is the number of
needles forming the loopsFor
Punto-di-roma, n=N/2Where N
is the total machine needles of
dial and
cylinder i
.
e
.
,
N
=
2
()
2030

=3772n=
23772
=1886 Now course length,

r
L
=
1886342.0

cm
p
L
=
1886291.0

cmTherefore, Run-in
r
I
=

1254.21886342.0

speed
= 381 feet / min
p
I
=
1254.2181886291.0

= 324 feet / min

Therefore, Run-in ratio=

324381
=1.2(b)As Swiss Double Pique
is knitted with rib gaiting, all
the loops are considered to
be plain loops. i.e.,
p
K
= 16.2 and loop length,
p
l
=
2.16
tex

= 0.291 cmAt the feeders (1, 3)

where dial and cylinder
needles form loops, the total
number of needlesforming the
loops are,
n
+
2
n
= 2829Therefore, Course length
produced with both dial and
cylinder needles,
d
L
,

c
=
291.02829

cmFig 14.7At the feeders (2, 4)

where dial only form the loops,
n/2 needles form knit stitches
and the samen/2 needles form
the miss stitches.For miss
stitches,
Gl
1
=
inches =
127.054.2201

=
cm
d
L
=
()
418.0943127.0291.0943127.
02291.02
=+=
+

nn
Run in,
d
I
,

c
=
4861253.218291.02829
=
ft / min
2331254.218418.0943
==
d
I
ft / minT h e r e f o r e R u n in ratio=
1.2233486
=
14.3 ANALYSIS OF WEFT
KNITTED FABRICS

To, understand the history of

the fabric as well as for its
reproducibility, analyzing the
fabricstructure is important.
Type of machine used and
design principles can also be
revealed byanalyzing the
knitted fabrics. For fabric
analysis a piece glass (i.e., a
counting glass), a pair
of scissors, ruler and
calculator are needed. The
following analysis sheet
(Table 14.1) can becompleted
after having thoroughly

analyzed the fabric. The

following procedure may
assist incarrying out the
analysis. These are only
guidelines and it takes time and
practice to acquire theskill in
the analysis.(i)Fabric Name:
To find out to which type
of the knitted structure the
given sample belongs
viz, single jersey, rib purl,
interlock etc. For single jersey
fabrics, loops areseen at the
face side and yarn lines are

visible at the back as shown

below:
Fig. 14.8

Double jersey fabrics have

similar appearance on both
sides. By holding the fabric
shorizontally, in such a manner
to observe its cross section, the

rib and interlock structures

can be found by their cylinder
and dial loop arrangements as
given below:
Fig 14.9
(ii)Fabric Appearance: To
find out the technical face
and technical back of the
fabrics.The top of the fabric is
the edge that was knitted last.
The face of the fabric is
alwaysthe side with the most
knit stitches.(iii)Yarn Type:
The last knitted yarn is
unraveled from the fabric

and is observed for itstypes

such as single, double, blend,
mlange, staple yarn, filament
yarn s/z twisted,2/3 plyed
etc.,(iv)Wales/cm and
courses/cm: With piece
glass, the Wales per inch can
be measured andconverted
into per centimeter. It is
advisable to analyze always the
back of the
fabric,a n d p a r t i c u l a r l y f
or unbalanced fabric,
the back is obvious.c
= courses/cm and w =

Wales/cm(v)Loop length:
Unravel 12 yarns from the
sample and measure the
total length,
T
L
cm( i.e., L1+L2+L3)Weigh
all the 12 yarns together, in
grams(wy)Find out the average
length LAV =
12
T
L
Count the number of Wales
occupied by LAV Now, the

average loop length = LAV

/(vi) Grams
per square meter: Cut a
piece of 10 cm

10 cm from the fabric sample

Findout the weight of the sampl
e, w Now, GSM = w
100

(vii)Yarn Tex : Using the

total yarn length and weight
as found above, Yarn
number can be calculated

as,Y a r n
T e x
=
T y
Lw
5
10

(viii) Tightness Factor : Using

the values of tex and loop
length as found above,
tightnessfactor can be
calculated as ,TF
l tex
, where
l

= loop length in
cms(ix) Fabric
construction: By carefully
analyzing the fabric using
a pick needle, the fulldesign
repeat of the structure,
number of feeders used,
needle gating etc., can
befound. The repeat can be
drawn either as point paper
design (symbolic nation) or
yarn path diagram
(diagrammatic notation).