LOOM KNIT POPCORN CARDIGAN

January 15, 2015 by Deena Joines

The first step is to take body measurements.

1. Body length front and back (F to B plus B to C, and G to B plus B to C)
These may or may not be the same but you need to find a comfortable length for the finished project.
2. Shoulder width both from neck to point of shoulder and from one shoulder point to the other. ( F line, E line
and D line)
3. Chest circumference across widest part. (A measurement )
While measuring here get separate back width from under arm seam.
4. Arm length "over and under" (H line and Roughly where A line ends under arm to N) Over = shoulder peak
to mid hand for completed length of sleeve Under = bottom of arm sleeve to wrist

Next decide how ornate you want your finished project. - No decoration, decorative panel, all over design, etc..
Yarn choice will play a large part as solid color allows more detail to show.
Start with back panel. I'll state my numbers which equate to roughly Women's size 14 (lg to xlg)
Materials needed:
Yarn - I used worsted weight and worked 2 strands as one throughout. Roughly1700 yds (will have a bit left
over from 3 double skeins)
I used all 4 round looms from the Boye set, in a pinch you need a minimum of 3. You will be working 3 flat
panels (back and front) and 2 sleeves as well as a collar (optional)
BACK PANEL
On largest loom, crochet cast on 37 pins
work as flat panel.
one row ewrap (any knit in this panel will be ewrap unless specified)
one row purl
Work roughly 72 rows. This takes you from bottom of garment to under arm area.
Rows 73 - 84 reduce one stitch per row at the beginning of each row. This brings the arm holes in 6 stitches on

each side which gives a gradual curve to the base of the armhole.
Work the next 27 rows as before, one knit row, one purl row.
The last 3 rows work one side, drop center 5 stitches, the work the other side.
Cast off 2nd side, go back and cast off 1st side.
FRONT PANELS
Crochet cast on 33 stitches.
Work 10 rows
(Two panels for front are mirrored. One worked from center to side seam, Other from side seam to center)
Loom needs to be marked
1. start and end points
2. 6 pegs from side seam (arm hole decrease end mark)
3. 4 pegs from center (begin or end panel insert area)
4. 10 pegs from 6 peg mark (end reduction for shoulder width)
5. 13 peg in from 4 peg mark (begin or end panel insert area)
Panel area is 6 row repeat
Work 10 repeats

You will end up with a panel looking something like the above... I'm not an artist ...
PANEL AREA REPEAT PATTERN
Row 1 - Knit bobble row
(Knit to panel mark start, Knit 2 stitches, * Bobble stitch, Knit 1* 5x, Knit 1, Knit to end of row.)
Row 2 - Purl row

(Purl to panel start, Knit across panel, Purl to end of row)

Row 3 - Knit row
Row 4 - Purl bobble row
Purl to start of panel, K2, *Bobble stitck, K1* 4x, Knit 2, Purl to end )
Row 5 - Knit row
Row 6 - Purl Row
k..............kkbkbkbkbkbkk.............k
p..............kkkkkkkkkkkkkkp...........p
k....................................................k
p..............kkbkbkbkbkkkp..............p
k.....................................................k
p...............kkkkkkkkkkkkkp.............p
Basically, this gives you a decorative panel of knitted area with raised "popcorn" bobbles alternating 5 on one
row and 4 on the next.
To do the bobble stitch
ewrap on same peg and knit over 4 times
then look behind the peg to find the original strand and pull that back over the peg to knit again and close the
stitch.
I found a video from Kristen at GoodKnitKisses that shows what I'm trying to explain.
She says something like 4 wraps is popcorn and 5 wraps is bobble, or something like that.
I just went by what my Gram did, and taught me like 45 years ago.......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BUclRuTdh8
Make one panel working clockwise, the other counter clockwise

SLEEVE (make 2)
No fancy stitches. This is a bit complicated, but not as much as you might think.
Work one row ewrap, one row purl all the way until ribbing at cuff, then I used K1, P1, but you are welcome to
use your personal favorite ribbing stitch.
Sleeve is worked shoulder to wrist. My arms are not large (really whimpy actually), so I was able to use a 30

peg loom for majority of sleeve with a reduction to 24 peg close to wrist.
First the loom needs to be marked.
Find center point away from starting peg, mark this. Also is helpful to leave a stitch marker on the first stitch
for sewing sleeve to body.
The loom needs to be evenly divided into 4 sections, two to the right and two to the left of the center and
starting pegs, (not counting center or starting peg, mine were 5 pegs off center in both directions, and 5 off start
in both directions)

ok again I'm not an artist but trying to make this clear Where A is center point and B is starting peg.
Starting at the "A - 5" peg, ewrap cast on 11 stitches, ending on "A + 5" peg
Ewap one row, purl one row on these 11 pegs
Ewrap next row, turn around next peg (adding one stitch/peg)
Purl next row, trun around next peg (adding one stitch/peg)
Now have 13 stitches.
Continue to add one stitch per row until have 21 stitches in the row. ( Should be at the B + 5 and B - 5 pegs)
Now add 2 stitches over 4 rows.
First Knit and Purl row add a stitch with each row (as above), then knit and purl one row without adding a stitch
Continue in this manner until only B peg is left .
The next row begin Knit row by beginning to knit in round rather than flat panel. This closes the sleeve,
finishing the "arm hole area".
Continue to Knit one row, Purl one row in the round for arm length minus 5 inches. For me this was roughly

70 rows to reach 15.5 inch under arm length.

Now begin decrease to move to smaller loom for tighter ribbing cuff.
Using Flat decrease, decrease stitches from B peg on either side 8 pegs over 8 rows.
Run a contrasting color yarn thru stitches. Remove work from 30 peg loom and transfer to 24 peg loom, making
sure that your beginning and ending stitches are at the starting peg.
Begin ribbing stitch for 3 - 4 inches (Roughly 10 rows)
Ribbing length should add to arm length to be slightly longer than arm length measurement.
Cast off with Stretchy (super stretchy) stitches. Leave extra-long tail.
Knot off .
Work tail thru ribbing to your "gap" area. Use long tail to sew gap closed. Tie off and hide ends.
SHAWL COLLAR
Use loom with at least 24 pegs.
Collar will be worked from 3 pegs increased to 24 pegs, the decreased back to three pegs.
Collar will be folded in half when attached.
Cast on 3 pegs.
ewrap knit all rows.
Increase one peg per row until all 24 pegs are in use.
Work in flat panel.
Total length needed is approx. 45 inches.
increase/decrease length is approx. 9.5 inches, so roughly 25 inches for flat panel full loom length.
COMBINE PIECES
Begin with 3 panels that form the back and front of garment.
Carefully line up the side seams, making sure that each knit row matches each purl row.
With right sides together, stitch the panels together (front and back then back and other front)
Carefully match up shoulder seams and sew together.
With garment inside out and sleeve right side out, line up sleeve with arm hole opening.
You'll have right sides together and be sewing on the inside of the arm hole.
Be very careful to match the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam, and the bottom of the sleeve with the side
seam. The number of stitches on either side is equal and should easily sew together. Repeat for second sleeve.

For adding collar, find your first decrease stitch for the V neck treatment on the front panel. Using scrap yarn tie
the point of the collar to this point. Find the center point at back and tie together with the center point on the
collar piece. Tie together at various points around the remaining length of the collar for ease of attaching, as
the weight of the sweater and the bulk of the two sides of the collar can become a bit difficult to manage if not
tied together. (If it was a normal sewing project, you'd be pinning the pieces together, but straight pins don't
work so well on knit craft LOL)
Finish by adding buttons, frog closure or belt as you wish.