patterns

.pdf

sewingcake.com/2224-tee
Cake RiFFs are sewable, wearable, remakeable patterns for
intermediate to advanced sewists. The Tee is a great way for
beginners learning to sew knits, too! Inside youll f nd customizable
Cake pattern pieces and clear written instructions for assembly.

No 2224

The Tee
3059"
(76150 cm)
full bust

.pdf
patterns

RiFF

back

/rif/ (in jazz and popular music) a short repeated phrase, frequently played
over changing chords or used as a background to a solo improvisation.

To make your own envelope at home, print this page and the next on cardstock. Cut along lines marked and crease along
the gray lines. Apply glue to these aps and attach envelope front to envelope back. Allow to dry completely before
storing your pattern pieces.

.pdf
patterns

RiFF No 2224 The Tee

Sizing/Fabric Requirements: 60" (152 cm) wide fabric

SIZE Full Bust (in) Full Bust (cm)

yd

30

3034

7686

1.25

35

3539

8999

1.25

40

4044

102112

1.25

45

4549

114124

1.4

50

5054

127137

1.8

55

5559

140150

1.8

FULL
BUST

Due to the adjustable length options offered by The Tee's Grid Sizing, actual fabric requirements may
vary. For the most accurate fabric estimate, use your Front Length measurement (more inside). For
30-45 base sizes, add 7" (17.8 cm) to your Front Length measurement to f nd the fabric requirement.
For 50-55 base sizes, add 5" (12.7 cm) to your Front Length and double it for the fabric requirement.

The Tee:

Fabric Choice:

Notions:

The Tee is a simple knit top

with breezy cap-length cut
on sleeves and hip-hugging
hem band. V-neck binding
overlaps at CF, or choose the
round neckline. Make one,
two or more perfectly shaped
micro-pockets. Stripe guide
printed on pattern.

Suitable for a wide variety of lightto medium-weight knit and jersey

fabrics with moderate stretch and
good recovery. The simple cut
allows distinctive prints and textures
to sing!

1-2 yd/m "(12 mm)

fusible stay tape
ballpoint needles
1-2 yd/m fusible
webbing
small piece of card
for template

sewingcake.com/2224-tee 2014 by the Consulting Dressmaker

The Tee
N2224
RiFF

Begin with A . To make best use of fabric, fold one edge

of the fabric just enough to t A . Then cut B , then the
other pieces, following the stripe/stretch and place on
fold guides.
Prewash all fabric before cutting in the same manner the
nal garment will be laundered.

MARK & CONNECT

Use the measurements from the chart to complete pieces
A B . First mark the dots, then draw a line to connect.
Cut on the line or trace a copy. If more width or length
is desired, add it by extending the grid as needed.
50-55

40-45

MEASUREMENT & SIZING

30-35

RiFF
N 2224

Blank Canvas Tee

The Tee uses Cake's Grid Guide

sizing. Choose your length and
width based on your measurements to create pattern pieces
size you.

front length: shoulder at neck to hip/hem

center front - place on fold

by the consulting dressmaker

stretch / stripe

see sewingcake.com/2224-tee for sewing tips and inspiration.

PATTERN KEY
A

Front

cut 1 on fold

Back

cut 1 on fold

Round Neck Binding

cut 1 on fold

V-neck Binding

40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

FULL BUST

Micro Pocket

cut 1 or more

Hem Band

cut 1 on fold

CUTTING NOTES
The versatile sizing of this pattern does not allow for
simple creation of cutting layout diagrams, but its not
difcult to cut The Tee well without them.
Fold the fabric out in a double layer and arrange the
pieces on top, beginning with the largest.

Take measurement at
fullest point on bust. This
determines base size.

(68.6cm)

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

FRONT LENGTH

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

Measure from shoulder at

neck, down over the bust
to desired hem position.

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

14

15

(40.6 cm)

16

(43.2 cm)

(45.7 cm)

(48.3 cm)

(50.8 cm)

(53.9 cm)

(55.9 cm)

17

18

19

20

21

22

(58.4 cm)

(60.9 cm)

(63.5 cm)

(66 cm)

23

24

25

26

Some combinations of measurements may create a point

below the underarm curve. Smooth this out by truing the
line. See sewingcake.com/true

Measure circumference of
hip at hem position.

Do not dent the esh when taking measurements.

Record below for easy reference.
pattern piece

1 Full Bust

A B C D E

2 Length

length A B

3 Hip

lower edge A B ; F

When between sizes, round up for a relaxed t, round

down for a closer t. Extra ease can be removed at the
Mid-Construction Fit Check.

SEAM ALLOWANCE
3

(38.1 cm)

hip circumference

HIP

measurement

(35.6 cm)

(61cm)

(66cm)

(73.7cm)

(76.2cm)

(71.1cm)

(78.7cm)

(63.5cm)

(96.5cm)

(99.1cm)

(81.3cm)

(83.8cm)

(101.6cm)

(94cm)

(91.4cm)

(88.9cm)

(86.4cm)

(109.2cm)

(106.7cm)

(114.3cm)

(104.1cm)

(111.8cm)

(119.4cm)

(116.8cm)

(121.9cm)

c m)
(127

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

cut 1 on fold

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24
(124.5cm)

The Tee features breezy hemmed cut-on sleeves

and hip-hugging hem band. V-neck binding
overlaps at center front, or choose the round
neckline. Make one, two or more micro-pockets.
Use a light-weight fabric for a layering Tee, or
medium-weight fabric for a standalone Tee.

Use a /8" (10 mm) seam allowance on The Tee.

STITCHES & TERMS

length

Knitstitch Flexible construction

width
stitch, often a preset on modern machines. Or use a long, narrow zig-zag stitch.
Machine settings vary; test stitch and record settings.
Finish Use a serger/overlocker or a triple-stitch zigzag on a regular machine to nish seam allowances
for a durable seam.
Topstitch 3.0 Slightly longer than a normal straight
stitch. Holds seam allowances in place through
wash and wear.
Press Using the correct heat setting for the fabric
type, press seams using an up-and-down motion to
set the stitches. Do not drag iron over the seam.

Page 1 of 2 Cake Patterns The Tee N2224 2014 The Consulting Dressmaker sewingcake.com Stephanie Cousins, Designer Susan Katz, Editor

PREP

To streamline the construction process, it's helpful to take a few

minutes to prep some pieces of the Tee. Pin the prepped
fabric pieces to the paper pattern piece until they're needed.

Press all binding pieces C D F in half lengthwise along

foldlines as marked on the pattern, right side facing out.
Apply fusible stay tape or other stabilizer to wrong side
of shoulder seams on B .

CONSTRUCTION

"(10 mm) seam allowance

With right sides together, stitch front A to back

B at one shoulder seam. Finish. Press seam
toward back. For V-neck, stitch both shoulder seams.

When stitching, be sure to keep the stabilized side

facing up. This helps the fabric move smoothly and
evenly under the presser foot while stitching.

Round Neckline
Stitch neck binding C to the right side of the
neck edge, stretching the binding gently around
curves but not stretching the Tee's neckline. Trim off
excess binding. Finish. Press seam toward body.

Stitch second shoulder, taking care to match up binding edges. Finish. Trim seam near neck, if necessary.
Press seam toward back.
(Topstitching is recommended as it controls the seam
allowance through wash and wear. If desired, topstitch
next to shoulder seams through seam allowances.)

V-Neckline
Overlap the short ends of binding D at a right
angle. Baste
folded edges
across short ends of
overlapped bindings
as shown, taking care
not to twist.

Position Micro Pocket(s) on Tee front at markings. Fuse or

baste in place. Pinning is too messy, as the knit will dent
at the folded edge.

To attach binding, work rst on one side of the neckline, then the other. Start at center front (CF).

Topstitch very close to edge, pivoting at pocket corners.

Press.

Align raw edges of binding with the raw edge of the

neckline to the right of the V. The basting stitches on
the binding should be stacked on top of the CF fold
line. Pin in place. Re-mark dot from CF onto binding
for neatest result.

Finish raw edges of sleeve openings. Press 1/2" (12

mm) to wrong side. If desired, use fusible webbing
to stabilize the hem and secure in place for stitching. Topstitch hem in place with a single or double needle.

Pin binding to neckline from CF to center back (CB),

stretching binding gently to t. Stitch from dot to CB.
In order to align the raw edge for the second side of
the V, clip the fabric to (but not through) the dot at CF.
Gently rotate overlapped binding 90o, until the basted
line crosses the CF fold. The clipped edge of fabric
should align with the basted line when viewed from the
wrong side. Now pin binding in place and stitch in the
same way as the rst side. Take care not to stitch small
puckers at the tip of the V.
Finish and press binding seam toward body. Topstitch
1
/8" (3 mm) from seamline, through seam allowance, if
desired.

Micro Pocket(s)
3

V-neck Tip: Baste binding in place before stitching. If

the V-tip puckers, it's easy to unpick. Only unpick the
stitches around a problem area, not the whole seam.
Once the V-tip looks at and tidy, use a knit construction
stitch to secure the seam. Sometimes very small puckers will disappear when pressed. A small gap in the
stitches at the V tip is ok; attempting to over-correct this
gap can cause puckering.

fabric. Fold top edge down over the card at foldline.

Press. Fold each angled corner at lower edge over the
card and press. Then fold the sides and lower edge over
the card and press. If desired, fuse strips of fusible webbing on pocket seam allowances now.

For perfectly shaped pockets, cut out the Micro

Pocket Template piece and glue to a piece of

card.
If a tag is desired, cut a piece of ribbon 1 1/4" (30 mm)
long and fold in half. Place on right side of pocket fabric at the lower corner, raw edges aligned. Baste in
place 1/4" (6 mm) from edge.

Finish top edge of pocket. Lay pocket right side down

on ironing board. Place template on wrong side of
fabric. Fold top edge down over the card at foldline.
Page 2 of 2 Cake Patterns The Tee RiFF N2224 2014 The Consulting Dressmaker sewingcake.com
Press. Fold each angled corner at lower edge over the

If desired, leave 1" (25 mm) of the hem unstitched at beginning and end. After stitching the side seams, stitch the
rest of the hem.

Stitch side seams. Bring in seams as desired for

a closer t. Finish. Press toward back.

Mid-Construction Fit Check Now is a great time to stop

and check the t of your Tee. Would you prefer a closer
t? If so, put on The Tee inside out, pin out the extra at
the side seams. Then take off The Tee and use chalk or
fabric markers to mark the pinline. Remove pins and
baste to check t before completing the seams.
Mark The Tee pattern piece with any changes you made.
Unfold prepared Hem Band F . Place short ends
right sides together and stitch across short end of
Hem Band to make a circle shape. Press seam open,
then re-fold Hem Band on original foldline with right
sides of the fabric facing out. For easier handling, use a
long machine stitch to baste the two raw edges together.

Slip the Hem Band over the lower edge of The Tee, with
the right side of The Tee facing the right side of the Hem
Band. Align the seam on the Hem Band with one side
seam. Gently stretch the Hem Band to t Tee.
Stitch. Finish. Press seam toward the body.

55
40

(116.8cm)
(119.4cm)

(111.8cm)

(104.1cm)
(114.3cm)

(106.7cm)
(109.2cm)

(88.9cm)

(91.4cm)

(94cm)
(101.6cm)

(99.1cm)

(96.5cm)

(86.4cm)

(81.3cm)

(83.8cm)

(78.7cm)

(71.1cm)

(76.2cm)

(73.7cm)

(68.6cm)

50
35

45

40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

40

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

The Tee

N2224

RiFF
foldline

direction of stripe/stretch

2 join to

A B

47
48

30-35 40-45

49

V-Neck
Binding

cut 1 on fold

The
Tee

RiFF
N2224

The Tee

to
1 join

foldline

cut 1 on fold

3/8" (10 mm)

seam allowance

Choose base size by nearest

full bust measurement. Round
down for a close t, round up
for a relaxed t.

Back

2 join to

direction of stripe/stretch

3/8" (10 mm) seam allowance

by the consulting dressmaker

30

2 join to

C D

18

46

3/8" (10 mm) seam allowance

45

Round
Neck
Binding

44

cut 1 on fold

43

The
Tee

42

RiFF

41

hip circumference

25

40

26

39

(66 cm)

2
direction of stripe/stretch

24

38

(63.5 cm)

23

37

(60.9 cm)

22

21

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

36

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

(58.4 cm)

(55.9 cm)

(53.9 cm)

(50.8 cm)

(48.3 cm)

(45.7 cm)

(43.2 cm)

(40.6 cm)

(38.1 cm)

with some vertical stretch)

direction of stripe/stretch

35

RiFF

35

(35.6 cm)

A B

26

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

center back - place on fold

34

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

(35.6 cm)

alternate
(only for fabrics

33

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

40-45

50-55

32

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

3/8" (10 mm)

seam allowance

cut 1 on fold

Front

4" / 10 cm square

31

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

stretch / stripe

Micro Pocket 1
30-35

Glue this to a small piece of card and

use as a pressing template for the
Micro Pocket. This is the simplest way
to create uniform pocket shapes,
resulting in sharp edges even in lightweight or wiggly fabrics.

40s

Micro
Pocket
Template

30

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

RiFF

The
Tee

N2224

29

N2224

RiFF
N2224

The Tee

by the consulting dressmaker

Choose base size by nearest

full bust measurement. Round
down for a close t, round up
for a relaxed t.

40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

35

30

to

Micro Pocket 2

join

28

N2224

40

(38.1 cm)

(40.6 cm)

(43.2 cm)

(45.7 cm)

(48.3 cm)

(50.8 cm)

(53.9 cm)

(55.9 cm)

(58.4 cm)

(60.9 cm)

17
30

15

40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

14
45

(66cm)

12
50

(61cm)

11
55

(63.5cm)

(121.9cm)

(127cm)

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

(121.9cm)

(127cm)

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24
(124.5cm)

(124.5cm)

e
(109.2cm)

erenc
(114.3cm)

mf
circu
hed
) nis
.7 cm
(111.8cm)

" (46
e
erenc
(119.4cm)

18 3/8
mf
circu
(116.8cm)

hed
) nis
(96.5cm)

55 .2 cm
(99.1cm)

" (44
(101.6cm)

17 3/8
erenc
(106.7cm)

50 cumf
d cir
(94cm)

Micro
Pocket
Template

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

(63.5 cm)

(66 cm)

hip circumference

16

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24

13
he
) nis
.65 cm
(104.1cm)

Glue this to a small piece of card and use as a

pressing template for the Micro Pocket. This is
the simplest way to create uniform pocket
shapes, resulting in sharp edges even in lightweight or wiggly fabrics.

10
" (41

e
erenc
(81.3cm)

16 1/2

mf
circu
(83.8cm)

50s
d
nishe
cm)

(91.4cm)

45 -

e
ferenc

27

direction of stripe/stretch

15 1/2
.3
" (39

circum
(88.9cm)

40 -

.25 cm
hed
) nis

45

" (37
(86.4cm)

The
Tee
14 5/8

e
(68.6cm)

RiFF

35 -

erenc
(73.7cm)

N2224

55

e
he
) nis
.84 cm

cumf
d cir

50

" (33

26

use same length as front

of
ce
.
pie g
all ssin ocket
re
a sm a p ro P
is to e as Mic
e th d us r the
Glu an fo
rd late
ca p
tem

e Te
13 3/8

5
25

40-45

C
24

50-55

Th
30 -

A B

30-35

22
N2

to

6 join to

5
30-3
5
40-4
5
50-5

ro
Mic et
ck
Po plate
m
Te
s
30

4
3/8" (10 mm)
seam allowance

(76.2cm)

50-55
join

cut 1 on fold

place on fold

RiF

2
to
by the consulting dressmaker

foldline

(78.7cm)

40-45
join

(61cm)

2
RiFF
N2224

(66cm)

30-35

1
The Tee

(71.1cm)

The
Tee
Hem Band

(63.5cm)

RiFF

center front - place on fold

N2224
place on fold

RiFF No 2224
The Tee

page tiling overview

50

front length: shoulder at neck to hip/hem

50-55

30-35

40-45

place on fold

foldline
top edge
50-55

Micro
Pocket

cut 1
or more

Print at 100% (no scaling)

for best accuracy.

Tested on A4 and US
Letter home printers.

Print first page of pattern

and measure the gauge
to check scale. 1/4 (6mm)
is an acceptable margin
of error.

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