RRRR

Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Berlin
December 2014 - January 2015
Glhwein time
Christmas markets
Europacity
The new Hauptbahnhof
district
inyourpocket.com
N72 - 1.75
Contents
THE TOURIST TICKET

Transport
Getting around by S&U
Sports in Berlin
All about Berlins top teams
Basics
Essential travel tips
Christmas markets
Glhwein and ginger cookies
Culture & Events
10
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Mitte
Get it
now!
free ride around the clock

200 discounts
city map + guide
20
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West
The gentried north
Berlin Friedrichshain
42
46
Workers paradise, students playground
SYMBOL KEY
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
E Live music
N No credit cards
M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
S Take away
R Internet
Berlin Kreuzberg
Additional symbols for hotels

P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide

The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.

Cheap; less than 10 per person.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
48
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
City Tours
56
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
Potsdam
58
Royal palaces and grand gardens
Directory
W Wi-Fi
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
berlin-welcomecard.de
32
Genteel western Berlin
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Available at the Berlin Tourist Infos, BVG + S-Bahn, in many hotels and online
Tobias Machhaus | Dreamstime.com
59
Maps & Index

Street register
City map
Public transport map
Index
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide youll nd boxes with
more information about these topics:
Berlin in books
Cold War Berlin
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival
55
39
8
41
Foreword
Transport
Although the foreign press likes to go gaga over Germanys

traditional Christmas Markets, usually held between late
November and Christmas Eve, its the locals that make the
more than 60 markets across Berlin come to life. Theres
a huge variety; crass commercial ones near the main
malls, more subtle and upmarket ones near the tourist
attractions, and lovely local markets in the suburbs. See our
feature on p.9.
If youre here in the new year, make use of frigid, quiet
January to take in the exhibitions currently on show in
Berlin; perhaps the one about West Berlin at the Ephraim
Palais, or the new one about the RAFs terrorist attacks in
the 1970s at the Deutsches Historisches Museum.
Finally, winter is a great time for concerts in Berlin. The
Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra has a full programme of
concerts in December and January, the Deutsche Oper is
making the most of the renovation of its main building to
oer an unusual programme in temporary spaces, and the
citys clubs are packed with exciting bands. See our events
listings from p.14 for more details.
Whatever you do this winter, wrap up warm and let us know
your tips and comments at berlin@inyourpocket.com.
Enjoy Berlin.
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tom Haman,
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner,
Cover Claudia Paulussen | Dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krger,
CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
Copyright notice & Editors note
Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket
publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
COVER STORY
Snow covers the historical Tiergarten park in central Berlin, where a
tree-lined path alley aords views
of the victory column in the centre
of the park. The boating lake may
be frozen over, the park is still excellent for winter walks.
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Berlin In Your Pocket
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berlin.inyourpocket.com
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great

empty vastness of northeast Germany, its very well
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had
such good public transport.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,70, ABC
3,30) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with
unlimited transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once
(Vier-Fahrten-Karte, 9). Buy a 1,60 Kurzstrecke (short
distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn
stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate
a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid
until 03:00 the next morning; 6,90) or the seven-day
pass (29,50). Groups of up to ve people are best o
with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, 16,90). The
multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (18,50-38,50) is valid for
transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket youll
be ned 40 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.
fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de,
www.bvg.de.
TAXIS
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same
day and night; agfall plus the rst kilometre is 3,40; then up
to 7km its 1,79/km, thereafter 1,28/km. Waiting costs 25/
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
tarri; 4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
WRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
www.wuerfelfunk.de.
CYCLING
As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. Its a at city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
ned, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
may take a while, though for 1,60 you can take your bike
on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
places, most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike
trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-trac and
cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
CITY CARDS
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one
museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
and youths may get better reductions at museums
using their student ID cards.
BERLIN WELCOMECARD
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 18,50, ABC 20,50), 72 hours (25,50/27,50)
or 5 days (32,50/37,50). Theres also a 72-hour variety
(38,50/40,50) that includes free admission to the ve
Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from
BVG ticket machines, tourist oces, S-Bahn oces, hotels
and kiosks. The similar CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.
com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club
discounts geared towards younger travellers: 48 hours
(AB 16,90, ABC 18,90), 72 hours (23,90/25,90) or
5 days (30,90/35,90).Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
Its for sale at the museums, tourism oces and online.
Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
Sports in Berlin
Sports in Berlin
Hertha BSC
Photo: Jan-Philipp Burmann/City-Press GbR
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the

city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing
ve exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union
play football, the Eisbren is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is
Berlins renowned basketball club, the Fchse play handball,
and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their
home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlins
stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold
for their events. In addition to this, Berlins streets regularly
host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals
during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts
countless amateur sports matches.
Despite being rivals, Berlins six professional sports
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional
ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)

Also known as the Albatrosse,
Berlins basketball club is
Germanys most successful, and
has the largest fanbase; home
matches easily attract 10,000
spectators. The current teams
average height is an impressive
1,98m. Since going pro in 1991,
Alba has won the German League 8 times and the
German Cup 7 times (including 2013), and was also
the rst German team to win an international title with
the 1995 Korac Cup.
Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2
World stadium on the following dates:
6 Dec, 18:30: Artland Dragons
9 Dec, 20:00: MHP Riesen Ludwigsburg
19 Dec, 20:45: Cedevita Zagreb
21 Dec, 17:00 : Fraport Skyliners Frankfurt
31 Dec, 15:00: Mitteldeutscher BC
17 Jan, 18:30: Walter Tigers Tbingen
31 Jan, 18:30: Medi Bayreuth
QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Strae (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets 8-65.
6
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins image as an international

sports event destination.
The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy to visit:
you dont need to understand German to be able to follow
a match and unlike in other European countries, sports
matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning
its no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium
for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about
which matches are playing where can be problematic for
visitors however as the club websites are not all available
in English, and some make it dicult to nd the upcoming
playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all
home matches for the following months, though always
keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
matches. Berlins ocial English-language sports website
www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all
the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.
eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
Local football team Hertha BSC recently faced German
juggernauts Bayern Munchen at Berlins sold-out 76,000seat Olympiastadion, and is set to face the daunting team
of Borussia Dortmund on 13 December - the demand for
tickets for these matches of the year is so great that an extra
stand with two tiers of seats was temporarily added to the
stadium. But Berliners need to admit that their team is not
quite in the same league as Bayern and Borussia - though
there are plenty of other matches this season where some
points can be scored.
Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlins professional volleyball team originates in the

western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home
matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer
Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful
since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga
title ve times, including in 2013 and 2014 under
trainer Mark Lebedew.
Their upcoming home games are:
18 Dec, 19:30: Asseco Resovia Rzeszow
21 Dec, 16:00: Cloud & Heat Volley Dresden
18 Jan, 15:00: VfB Friedrichshafen
21 Jan, 19:30: Budvanska Rivijera Budva
QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer
Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recyclingvolleys.de. Tickets 13-16.
EISBREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)

Originating in 1953 in East Germanys Dynamo sports club, the
polar bears is Berlins popular
professional ice hockey team.
They have won the national
Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times,
more than any other team, most
recently in 2013 under Canadian
coach Je Tomlinson. They also bagged the European
Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in
the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the
O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young
fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured
atmosphere.
Their upcoming home matches are:
5 Dec, 19:30: Klner Haie
7 Dec, 17:45: Adler Mannheim
14 Dec, 14:30: Hamburg Freezers
19 Dec, 19:30: Straubing Tigers
23 Dec, 19:30: Klner Haie
26 Dec, 16:30: Grizzly Adams Wolfsburg
30 Dec, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt
4 Jan, 14:30: EHC Red Bull Mnchen
9 Jan, 19:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings
16 Jan, 19:30: Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers
30 Jan, 19:30: Krefeld Pinguine
FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)

The foxes, Berlins
handball team, is part
of an old West Berlin
sports club, and now
plays home matches
in Prenzlauer Bergs
famous Max-Schmeling-Halle, named after
the German boxing
legend who was world
champion heavyweight
between 1930-32. The Fchse compete in Germanys
Handball Liga and the European Champions League,
and won the German cup at the end of the very succesful 2013-2014 season.
Upcoming home games:
7 Dec, 13:30: FSV Frankfurt
16 Dec, 17:30: Karlsruher SC
QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49
30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets 1250.
QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Strae (O2 World),

30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets 18-46.
HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)
FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

FC Union is the working mans football
team for Berlin, originating in East Berlin
in 1966 and a feared
counterpart for the GDRs state-inuenced Dynamo
club. Union is still ercely independent, based in their
charming An der Alten Frsterei stadium. The club has
resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung
by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium
uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed
Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the
1990s, but has had more success in the national competitions since the early 2000s.
Berlins main football team plays home matches at

the impressive Olympiastadion, Germanys second
largest stadium which was built for the 1936
Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World
Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga
and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa
Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and
is know as the Alte Dame, the old dame, witnessing its
glory years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached
the German Championship nals 6 times, winning it
twice. Nowadays Herthas fortunes are mixed, but the
fan base remains loyal.
Upcoming home games:

7 Dec, 13:30: FSV Frankfurt
16 Dec, 17:30: Karlsruher SC
Upcoming home matches:

13 Dec, 15:30: Borussia Dortmund
21 Dec, 15:30: TSG Hoenheim
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten

Frsterei), Kpenick, MS Kpenick, tel. +49 30 656
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets 14-43.
QOlympischer
Platz
3
(Olympiastadion),
Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets 15-89.
Basics
Christmas in Berlin
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers
CRIME & SAFETY

Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty
crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlins touristed central areas.
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
8
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange oces can be found at the major train stations.
VISAS AND ENTRY

FORMALITIES
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Brgeramt oce is ocially required for stays
more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that theres no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European Schengen countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
CLIMATE
30
80
25
70
60
20
50
15
40
10
30
5
0
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only really palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature C
DRINKS & ALCOHOL
20
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov Dec
-5
10
0
Rainfall (mm)
Min Temp (C)
Max Temp (C)
Berlins many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmrkte) bustle with both tourists and locals. Theres music, food,
drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets oer mainly
handicrafts and decorations such as the popular wooden
trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains. Then there are also
huge fruitcakes (Stllen) and nutcrackers (Nussknacker),
scarves, hats, and gloves of richly coloured felt. Wrap up
warm and stay tanked up on the Glhwein, hot mulled red
wine, sold at all markets in souvenir mugs.
Berlin has about 60 Christmas markets for you to enjoy.
The most picturesque ones are on Gendarmenmarkt
(until 31 Dec, open 11:00-22:00, 24 Dec until 18:00,
admission 1; New Years Eve until 01:00, 12), the
Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt on Schlossplatz
(see below), the market in Spandaus old town (until
23 Dec, Sun-Thu 11:00-20:00, Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat 11:0022:00). Theres a huge winter world at Potsdamer
Platz (market until 26 December, open 10:00-22:00, 24
Dec until 16:00, winterworld attractions open until 4
January), and the lovely traditional Rixdorf market in
Neuklln (see below).
Germans make Christmas a far less commercial holiday than
some other nationalities, and instead whip themselves into a
frenzy with classical music concerts and opera. This year the
Staatsoper Unter den Linden (www.staatsoper-berlin.de)
presents Mozarts Magic Flute as their Christmas show.
SOPHIENSTRAE
SOPHIENSTRASSE CHRISTMAS ECOMARKET

In Mittes designer and gallery district, the eco-friendly
Christmas market takes place on Sophienstrae, one of
Berlins most beautiful streets. Stands sell all manner
of useful, eco-friendly and unusual Christmas gifts, of
German or fair-trade origin. The market is kept stylish
and low-key, and a limited but ne selection of food
stands oers crepes, organic Bratwurst, raclette and
Glhwein. Theres live music, performers, angels, and
Father Christmas drops by every day for the children.
Weihnachtsmarkt Sophienstrae, Mitte, S-Bahn
Hackescher Markt, U-Bahn Weinmeisterstrae, www.
weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de. Open 29-30 Nov &
6-7, 13-14, 20-21 Dec; Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00.
Environment and
Christmas Market
Sophienstrae 2014
Sophisticated items at a
magical illuminated Christmas
fair near the gallery quarter
On the ds
en
4 week ent
of Adv :00
020
Sat 12:0 19:00
0
Sun 11:0
Access fro
m
Rosentha
ler Strae
or
through H
ackesche
Hfe, (Hof
VI)
Supported by:
www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de
EMILS WEIHNACHTSGARTEN
Just north of the S-Bahn ring, Emils Christmas garden
is held in the atmospheric former Willner brewery and
features stands with art, culture and events. The lighting is
done by the people behind the famed Festival of Lights.
Emils Weihnachtsgarten, Willner Brauerei Berlin, Berliner
Str. 80-82, Prenzlauer Berg, U Vinetastrasse, www.emilsweihnachtsgarten.de. Open 29-30 Nov & 6-7, 13-14, 2021 Dec, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-20:00.
NOSTALGIC CHRISTMAS MARKET
The Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt in Berlins historical
centre on Schlossplatz, opposite the huge palace building
project, presents 150 stands with gifts, and artisans at work.
Traditional food and drinks are available, and children can
enjoy special punch and the Christmas crib with live animals.
Until 28 December. Schlossplatz, Mitte, www.berlinerweihnacht.de. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-21:30, Fri & Sat
11:00-22:30, Sun 11:00-21:30; 25-28 Dec 11:30-21:00, 24
Dec closed.
RIXDORF CHRISTMAS MARKET
The fabulous Rixdorf market, located in a quaint village that
was swallowed Berlins Neuklln district a century ago, is lit
by oil lamps to recapture the small town feel of old Rixdorf.
It runs for one weekend only, and features handmade crafts
sold only by charities. Richardplatz 28, Neuklln, U-Bahn
Karl-Marx-Strae. From 5-7 Dec, Fri 17:00-21:00, Sat
14:00-21:00, Sun 14:00-20:00.
Culture & Events
Culture & Events

Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres
and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets
- and an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of
matches played year-round.
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC

DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
West Berlins 1960s opera building with its excellent
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances.
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3,
Bismarckstrae 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from 16.
Royal Concerts on Christmas

and New Years Eve
Concerts in Advent, Christmas,
New Years Eve & New Years Day
and
Italy visiting Prussia

Concerts in January 2015
Dinner & Concert

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Tickets also av rs
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KOMISCHE OPER
Starting o as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
buildings monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3,
Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets 9-150.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Franzsischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
de. Tickets 10-99.
BERLIN RESIDENCE
CONCERTS
Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal
surroundings. Exclusive culinary delicacies and
musical masterpieces are combined in the magical
surroundings of the Great Orangery Charlottenburg
Palace. At Christmas and New Year, the Berlin Residence
Orchestra Orchestra presents a special program with
the most beautiful masterpieces of the 17th and 18th
centuries, by Bach, Hndel, Mozart, Vivaldi and others.
Tickets 030 25 810 35 0

www.concerts-berlin.com
Image Berlin Konzertveranstaltungs GmbH

10 Berlin In Your Pocket
Royal Christmas concerts: 7, 14, 21, 24 December

at 16:00, 25, 26 December at 18:00 (with dinner). New
Years concerts: 31 December at 15:00 and 20:30
(dinner at 18:00), 1 January at 20:30 (dinner at 18:00).
Italy meets Prussia: 3, 7, 10, 17 January at 20:00
(palace visit between 10:00 and 15:30; dinner at 18:00).
Sunday Matinee: 25 January at 15:00..
BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
QSpandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49
30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets 14-220.
SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
box so that he could watch his favourite operetta The
Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets 21-79.
BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
The Berlin Residence Orchestra
consists of well-known musicians, who interpret baroque
and classic opera with a keen
sense of the compositions from
that era. The result is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights presented
true to the original style and aristocratic sound. Guests can
combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle,
and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3, Spandauer
Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend, tel. +49 30
25 810 350, www.concerts-berlin.com. Dinner 18:00,
concert 20:30. Tickets 29-155.
BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually
and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as
it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly
revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE-4,
Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows
Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00.
Tickets from 69.
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets 18-106.
HINTERM HORIZONT
The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free
portable translator device (book in advance), international
visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. Behind the

horizon is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West
German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who spies
on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years later, in
a reunited Germany, they piece together their history.QE-4,
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater am Potsdamer
Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.
stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat
15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets 38-97.
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin,
the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening
in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before
the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then its over to
the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.
QE-3, Groe Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel.
+49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows
20:00, Sun 19:00. Tickets 15-45.
WINTERGARTEN:
MAGICAL MYSTERY
Thomas Otto Photo: Peter Noreick
Until 18 February, the Magical Mystery Show is all

about illusion. The red velvet curtain raises to reveal
Grand Masters of magic, who make the impossible
seem possible, creating magical and mysterious
moments where nothing is as it seems. Lead by
magician Thomas Otto, the magicians from around the
world turn the Wintergarten theatre into a dreamlike
place of illusion. Join them on a journey into the world
of the unexplained.
WINTERGARTEN VARITQPotsdamer Strae
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
11
Culture & Events

RAF - TERRORIST VIOLENCE
Culture & Events

WINTERGARTEN VARIT
One of Berlins famed variety theatres was revived here
as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, youll enjoy a
show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets 25-60.
Poker
R oulet t e
Bl ack Jack
Slotm achines
THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE

Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres lots
of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; its getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic
dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.
tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance
events.
Wanted poster for anarchist violent oenders, May 1972

The Federal Police appealed to the citizens via such posters.
Arrested persons were struck out.
Haus der Geschichte Baden-Wrttemberg, Stuttgart
The new RAF - Terrorist Violence exhibition at the

Deutsches Historisches Museum, until 8 March, discusses
the actions and attacks of the Red Army Faction and
focuses on the way citizens and politicians dealt with
their terrorist violence which killed 34 people. Special
attention is given to the radicalisation of the student
protest movement in West-Berlin from 1967 to 1970,
although the attacks primarily took place in southwest
Germany. The exhibition also broadly asks how terrorist
violence be combated without jeopardising the
democratic state, a question that is still relevant today.
Exhibition tours in English take place on Fridays at 15:00.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter
den Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.
ASK THE CONCIERGE

Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
of their jackets.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN

Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or
not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming
on the little black boxs stage.QF-5, Fidicinstrae 40,
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691
12 11, tickets@etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets
14-18.
EVENT TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket oces (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH-4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
There are many ways to

spend a night in Berlin.
But spending an Evening
at its Casino could be an
unforgettable one.
Spielbank-berlin.de
+49-(0)30-255 99 0
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1
10785 Berlin
Open daily 11am - 5am
Guest must be 18 or over
and show a valid ID card..
Please remember to
gamble Responsibly.
HALLE TANZBHNE
A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern
dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG1, Eberswalder Strae 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halletanz-berlin.de. Tickets 15.
DAL EXHIBITION
HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)

Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstrae
29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental
theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4,
Hallesches Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor,
tel. +49 30 259 00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de.
Tickets 11-18.
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
every month: Kim Eustace on the rst Tuesday, and the
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaies show How to become
a Berliner in one hour.QG-2, Schnhauser Allee 184,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets 5-16.
Shows Tue-Sun.
www.inyourpocket.com
DaliBerlin.de
With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural

highlight Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz oers
the most complete overview of Dals virtuous and experimental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in
the heart of Berlin. As Dal once said: Come into my brain.
In keeping with this spirit Surrealism for all, visitors to Berlin now have the chance to discover their Dal.
DAL - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER
PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.
de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00.
Admission 11, reduced 9.
13
Culture & Events

DEUTSCHE OPER
Berlins famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back
into its home theatre after extensive renovations this
winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one
of their performances. Several shows have Englishlanguage subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see
the website for details. Programme highlights for this
season are:
Dec 5,7,9,10,11,12,21,22: Gold, with Christina Sidak,
director Annechien Koerselman.
Dec 7, 13: Tannhuser und der Sngerkrieg auf
Wartburg, with Petra Maria Schnitzer; Peter Seiert,
conductor: Axel Kober
Dec 12,19: Turandot, with Catherine Foster, Heidi
Stober, Conductor Ivan Repusic
Dec 14,17,20: Der Rosenkavalier, with Michaela Kaune,
Elna Garana, Conductor: Donald Runnicles
Dec 21,25: Lohengrin, with Heidi Melton, Petra Lang,
Conductor: Donald Runnicles
Dec 22,29: Der Liebestrank, with Olga Peretyatko/
Heidi Stober, Elbenita Kajtazi/Alexandra Hutton
Jan 15,18: Tosca, with Anja Harteros; Marcelo lvarez,
Conductor: Donald Runnicles
Jan 24,27,28,29: Give-A-Way, with pupils of the
Hector-Peterson-Schule, Conductor: Alexandra Holtsch
Jan 25,29,31: Lady Macbeth of the Mtsensk District,
with Evelyn Herlitzius, Nadine Secunde, Conductor:
Donald Runnicles
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstrae 35, tel.
+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
NEW YEARS EVE

While Christmas might be a mellow aair in Berlin, the
days preceding New Years (Silvester, after the saint
whose name day falls on 1 January) suggest a wartorn city that hasnt quite given up its arms yet thats
what happens when the corner store sells reworks to
naughty twelve-year-old boys. A million people show
up for the citys free, 2km-long party at Brandenburger
Tor, the worlds largest New Years Eve party. Shake o
2014 and warm up at the same time in one of several
the dance oor tents or at the various stages. Note that
you cant take reworks, glass, large plastic bottles,
alcoholic drinks or suitcases into the party zone. See
also www.silvester-berlin.de.
Culture & Events

QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB
Quatsch is the delicious German word for nonsense,
and theres plenty of it in the shows held in the
Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German,
but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage Strictly Stand Up nights. Drinks and snacks like
nachos and hot dogs are available.QF-3, Friedrichstr.
107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets 25-35.
Shows Thu-Sun.
RADIALSYSTEM V
A fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old
pumping station along the Spree river. Theres a restaurant
and caf too.QH-4, Holzmarktstrae 33, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www.
radialsystem.de. Tickets 5-41.
SCHAUBHNE
Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically
and socially engaged repertoire of this venerable
ensemble theatre ranges from classics to contemporary
plays, and regularly travels abroad, giving famed
directors like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and
Katie Mitchell and actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina
Hoss the chance to shine abroad. Every month, several
shows have English and/or French surtitles. Theres
a good theatre caf with drinks and simple meals
too.QB-4, Kurfrstendamm 153, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 23, www.
schaubuehne.de. Tickets 7-47.
Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC
5 & 6 Dec, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Kirill Petrenko; Gustav Mahler, Symphony No. 6
PH
7 Dec, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Alina
Pogostkina (violin)
Dirigent: David Zinman; Works by Sibelius
PH
11-13 Dec, 20:00

Dirigent: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Ljadow, Prokoev and
Shostakovitch
PH
14 Dec, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, PierreLaurent Aimard (piano)
Dirigent: Christoph Eschenbach; Works by Dvork
PH
15 Dec, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Pablo Heras-Casado; Works by Haydn,
Shostakovitch and Stravinsky
KH
17 Dec, 20:00
Kammerakademie Potsdam
Conductor: Kolja Blacher; Works by Jancek, Bartk and Vivaldi
PH
18-20 Dec, 20:00
Dirigent: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Wagner, Widmann,
Ravel and Sibelius
PH
21 Dec, 20:00
Freiburger Barockorchester
Leitung: Peter Barczi; Works by Locatelli, Hndel and Hayes
PH
21 Dec, 20:00
Philharmonischer Chor Berlin, Batzdorfer Hofkapelle
Dirigent: Jrg-Peter Weigle; Hndel, Messiah, Oratorium
HWV 56
PH
FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale lm festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international lm festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
3-6 Dec: REC, ufaFabrik, www.jugendmedienfestival.de
9 Dec, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester
Berlin,
Kammerchor
Conductor: Andrea Marcon; Bach, Mass in B minor
KH
RIAS
11 Dec, 20:00
Elena Bashkirova (piano)
Works by Schumann, Mozart, Liszt, and Albniz
PH
4-10 Dec: French Filmweek, various venues,

www.franzoesische-lmwoche.de
11-17 Dec: Cinema! Italia!, Babylon Mitte & Bali Kino,
www.cinema-italia.net
1-16 Jan: Unknown Pleasures, Babylon Mitte,
www.unknownpleasures.de
18-19 Jan: British Shorts, various cinemas,
www.britishshorts.de
CINEMAS
Foreign lm oerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled
lms; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU
(original version with German/English subtitles) and
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.
ADRIA
The lm Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
QSchlostrae 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz,
tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets
7,40-9,40.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s lmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed lms. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
lms accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, RosaLuxemburg-Strae 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets 7.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house lms and mini lm fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruy
courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS
Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.
kino-central.de. Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster lms and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germanys widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets 6-13.
HACKESCHE HFE
Mainly shows foreign lms in their original language.
QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
org. Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
SPUTNIK
Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie lms,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but its
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the
furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Tickets 5-6,5.
15
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
SUITABLE FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS
presented by
NEW MAGICIANS
NEW ILLUSIONS
ONLY TILL 15 FEBRUAR
Y 2015!
Wed Sat 20:00 Sun 18:00 Tickets from 32*

bit.ly/wigaweb
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BACK WITH NEW ARTISTS:
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HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES

Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays
(from 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain
open till late at night on weekdays. Museums are
largely open during the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof
tourist oce is open daily during the holidays, but may
close earlier on the 24th. Public transport operates as
on Sundays on 25 Dec and 1 Jan, and has extra services
running throughout the night on New Years Eve.
20 Jan, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Gil Shaham
(violin)
Dirigent: Marek Janowski; Works by
Britten and
Shostakovitch
PH
23 Dec, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester
Berlin,
Widmann (violin)
Dirigent: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven
PH
22-24 Jan, 20:00

Dirigent: Christian Thielemann; Brahms, Ein deutsches
Requiem op. 45
PH
Carolin
27 Dec, 20:00
Festival Orchestra Berlin
Dirigent: Stefan Bevier; Works by Albinoni, Bach, Mozart
and Tchaikovsky
PH
29 Dec, 20:00
European Vivaldi Players
Dirigent: Stefan Bevier; Works by Vivaldi
PH
29-31 Dec, 20:00
Dirigent: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Rameau, Mozart,
Kodly and Dvork
PH
From 21 February 2015

Wed Sat 20:00 Sun 18:00 Tickets from 32*
bit.ly/wigaweb
# wigamozart
Potsdamer Strae 96, D -10785 Berlin Tiergarten

Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
*Prices plus advance booking fee and 2 system fee/ ticket
8 Jan, 20:00
Deutsches
Symphonie-Orchester
Berlin,
Annemarie Moorcroft (viola)
Dirigent: Sir Roger Norrington; Works by Schubert, Britten
and Williams
PH
9-11 Jan, 20:00
Dirigent: Herbert Blomstedt; Bruckner, Symphony No. 8
PH
02/04/2015
16-18 Jan, 20:00

Dirigent: Christian Thielemann; Works by Liszt, Henze and
Beethoven
PH
23 Dec, 20:00
Barock Orchester Berlin
Dirigent: Stefan Bevier; Works by Hndel, Pachelbel, Corelli,
Bach, Albinoni and Vivaldi
PH
6 Jan, 20:00
Andrs Schiff
Sonatas by Haydn, Beethoven, Mozart and Schubert
PH
Directed by and featuring CHRISTOPH HAGEL,
DDC COMPANY (Got to Dance finalists 2013)
and Top-Artists of BASE Berlin
13 Jan, 20:00
Kammerakademie Potsdam
Leitung: Sergio Azzolini; Works by Haydn (both Michael and
Joseph) and Mozart
PH
28, 29 & 31 Jan, 20:00

Dirigent: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Sibelius
PH
30 Jan, 20:30
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
QUEEN & LIONEL RICHIE

UK rock legends Queen
play at Berlins O2 World
stadium on 4 February.
Singer Adam Lambert,
who rst performed with
Queen in 2009, does an
admirable job when it
comes to taking on the
late Freddy Mercurys vocals. The show promises to be
spectacular as always, with many classic hits coming
by.
Lionel Richie has been
on tour with the All the
hits, all night long tour
since September 2013, and
on 17 February hell visit
Berlins O2 World stadium.
With ve Grammys, 100
million
sold
albums
and dozens of hit songs
spanning decades, its sure to be a great show. For more
details and tickets see www.semmel.de.
8:00 pm
ERIK PENNY
& Band
heart bleed out tour
02/15/2015 Privat Club 8:00 pm
02/17/2015
8:00 pm
TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de
Dirigent: Dima Slobodeniouk; Works by Shostakovitch and

Prokoev
PH
CONCERTS
5 Dec, 20:00
Clueso (Pop)
MS
5 Dec, 20:00
UB40 (Reggae)
KB
9 Dec, 20:00
Erasure (Pop)
CH
9 Dec, 21:00
dEUS (Belgian rock)
PB
10 Dec, 21:00
Beardyman (Beatboxing, Hip Hop)
GR
10 Dec, 20:00
Metronomy (Pop)
CH
17
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
DRINKS IN BERLIN
KNUTSCHFLECK EVENTS
Why order a bland drink you have back home when

you can try one of many Szenegetrnken (hip drinks)
that Berliners love? Heres a dictionary of strange and
delicious drinks and drink brands you may spot on bar
menus around town.
Berlins new Burlesque-style cocktail bar, conveniently

located near many of the hotels around Alexanderplatz,
has a programme of events to keep you entertained.
LOCAL BRANDS
Made in Berlin, or elsewhere in/around Germany.
Afri-Cola, Fritz Cola - Local cola brands with high
caeine content.
Almdudler - An Austrian mix of apple and grape juice
with herbs.
Ampelmnnchen - Lightly carbonated mineral water
with apple-pomegranate or apple-kiwi taste. Red and
green, like the Berlin trac light man. Only in shops.
Baola - Fair-trade, organic Baobab fruit drink, either
pure or with mango, cherry or guarana. Made in Munich.
Berliner Mtchen - Apple Schorle with mate tea extract.
Berliner Weisse mit Schuss - Sour wheat beer made
tasty with a shot of raspberry (Himbeer, red), woodru
(Waldmeister, green) or other syrups. Served with a straw.
Berliner Sommer/Winter - Organic drink with apple
juice and 10% vodka, plus lime & woodru (summer)
or spices (winter).
Bionade, BioZisch - Refreshing fruit juice brewed
with sparkling water. Try the Holunder (elderberry) or
Ingwer (ginger) varieties.
Club Cola - East Germanys very own cola, since 1967,
in Original and Null Zucker varieties.
Club Mate - Highly caeinated Bavarian drink with
mate tea extract, pronounced kloob mah-te. Take two
gulps and top up the bottle with booze for a VodkaMate or Sekt-Mate.
Glam Cola - Kreuzbergs natural cola, sweetened with
fruit juices.
Hopster - Alcohol-free hop lemonade, made in Bavaria.
Kreuzbr - Berlin-made Fassbrause with caeine;
Kreuzbrchen is caeine-free and suitable for kids.
OBC Cidre - Original Berliner Cidre, with classic, strong
and rose ciders.
OstMost - Berlin-made juice, Schorle, and cider from
apples grown in bird-friendly orchards.
Proviant - Bottled smoothies, lemonades and Schorle,
made in Berlin with fresh organic fruit.
Spezi, Schwip-Schwap - Half cola, half orange soda.
Tannenzpe - Fir cone beer, aka Zpe. Brewed in
the Black Forest, with a 1950s label design.
Wostok Tannenwald - Soviet-inspired lemonade
with pine needle oil, taiga root and cardamom. Also
in Green (tarragon-ginger) and Faraway Fruit (datepomegranate) versions.
Every Friday and Saturday from 20:00 theres a 3,5

-hours show with live music, singers, dancers and
acrobats. On Tuesdays and Thursdays from 20:00
guests can grab the microphone themselves for a spot
of karaoke with a free drink for singers. Sundays from
20:00 is Open Mic night, when anyone with talent is
invited up on stage.
KNUTSCHFLECK, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, www.
knutschfleck-berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri &
Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
17 Jan, 21:00
Pothead (Rock)
HX
He covers the oor with paper and crawls across with his
hands soaked in paint.
NA
Until 4 January 2015
Die Welt der Wikinger The World of the Vikings
The new exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau uses
spectacular archaeological nds, including a huge ship, to
illustrate the history of the Vikings in northern Europe and
beyond.
MG
TRADE FAIRS
WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS

KILKENNY IRISH PUB
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand
in hand. And if thats what youre after, the Kilkenny Irish
Pub is where you nd it. Watch all major sport events,
Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc.
on large screens, together with locals and tourists from
all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open
from 12:00. EGBW
16-25 Jan
International Green Week Berlin
Exhibition for the food, agricultural and horticultural
industries.
www.gruene-woche.de
MB
VENUE LIST BERLIN
19 Jan, 21:00
Zoot Woman (Pop)
LI
CH COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21,

tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.
EXHIBITIONS
GR GRETCHEN, Obentrautstrae 19-21,

tel. +49 30 25 92 27 02, www.gretchen-club.de.
Until 31 Dec
Moshe Gershuni No Father No Mother
Moshe Gershuni (Tel Aviv, 1936) is one of the most
important Israeli artists. His existential work - an ongoing
project over more than forty years - is uncompromising,
and his paintings, drawings and sculptures leave plenty
of room for associations. Gershuni works horizontally.
WEST:BERLIN EXHIBITION
To anyone who realises how crazy Berlins history
is, its not surprising at all that the new West:Berlin
exhibition is located in an elegant palace in the former
East Berlin that itself was dismantled and stored in
West Berlin for many years. For half a century, West
Berlin was a heavily politicised and highly subsidised
Island of Freedom marooned inside the GDR, and
500 exhibits show the development of this half of the
city, from post-war ruins via its function as a showcase
of the western Allies, and from the years of decline
after the fall of the Wall in 1989 to its current revival.
Photographs, art, objects, cars and an audio-salon with
the sounds of the half-city demonstrate why West for
many is still best.
WEST:BERLIN, until 28 June. Open Tue-Sun 10:00
- 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Ephraim-Palais, G-3,
Poststr. 16, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.west.berlin.
Admission 7, first Wednesday of the month free.
HX HUXLEYS NEUE WELT, Hasenheide 108-114,

tel. +49 30 627 93 20, www.huxleysneuewelt.com.
KB KULTURBRAUEREI, Knaackstrae 97,
tel. +49 30 44 31 51 51, www.kulturbrauerei.de.
KH KONZERTHAUS BERLIN, Gendarmenmarkt,
tel. +49 30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de.
LI LIDO, Cuvrystrae 7, tel. +49 30 69 56 68 40,
www.lido-berlin.de.
MB MESSE BERLIN, Messedamm 22,
tel. +49 30 303 80, www.messe-berlin.de.
THE HARP
Just one minute o Kurfrstendamm, The Harp is a
haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy
ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide
the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full
of excitement and entertainment while following
international football, rugby and other sports, or
playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstrae
15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30
22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de.
Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. EBW
MG MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.

MS MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz,
tel. +49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.
NA NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer
Strae 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51,
www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.
O2 O2 WORLD, O2-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88
99, www.o2world-berlin.de.
PB POSTBAHNHOF, Strae der Pariser Kommune
8, tel. +49 30 69 81 28 20, www.postbahnhof.de.
PH PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
19
Mitte
Mitte
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in the
1600s. Trac passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around
the Siegessule victory column. The Strae des 17. Juni
leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the
state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz
district with its soaring corporate buildings.
GETTING THERE
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
POCKET WALK
Start o at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstrae for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstrae and turn right at Mohrenstrae for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Strae, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche
Hfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Strae
for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here
back to Brandenburger Tor.
Since reunication, the old city centre district Mitte

(meaning middle) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and o the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally
humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel
area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard
gallery to sidewalk caf. Only traces are left of the Jewish
community that lived here from the late 17th century,
welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.
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GERMAN
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF-2, Gartenstrae 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00 - 01:00. . TUGBS
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next
door to Joseph. Its named after a prolic Jewish writer
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby
in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of
Berlins nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious
Flammkuchen pies are served, and its a great place for
a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Variet,
opposite.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 75, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.
joseph-roth-diele.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. . TENGBSW
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. Youll nd the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen oers
sides not served at other German restaurants, including
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstrae 21, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.
de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30 - 24:00. . TEGB
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Restaurants & Cafs
RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
creations, including local favourites such as Slze (cold
knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
There are good seasonal wines, and the bar sta can
shake up a great cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00.
EGBW
ROTISSERIE WEINGRN
Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what
was once Berlins old town, Weingrns fresh and simple
interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such
as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar

is stocked with wines from the owners own vineyards
in the Pfalz. The restaurant oers good views over the
Spree canal.QG-4, Gertraudenstrae 10-12, Mitte, MU
Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
TUGBSW
SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. .
TUNBS
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille,
whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered
banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu
are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade
(beaf-stued cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. . E
EUROPACITY
When Berlins Hauptbahnhof train station opened
in 2006 on the site of the former Lehrter Bahnhof, it
was marooned in a desolate plain. The area was never
residential; instead used for the train business and
exhibitions. In the meantime, several block-like hotels
and the John F. Kennedyhaus oce building have
opened up next to the station, while to the north the
area along the canal, formerly the border zone between
east and west Berlin, is the largest construction site in
Berlin. A total 40 hectares of land between three old
harbours is being transformed into a modern residential
and business district. Anchored by the completed
headquarters for Total, and PriceWaterhouseCoopers,
electricity network company 50 Hertz and builders
Ernst Basler und Partner and others are also busy
constructing oces, while the Kunstkubus art cube
will join up with the Hamburger Bahnhof modern art
museum, across the canal.
One remarkable lone survivor from the olden days
is the charming gourmet Paris Moskau restaurant.
Overlooking the station from Alt-Moabit street, for
years the half-timbered building was surrounded
by construction. Now that the new interior ministry
building next door has been nalised, peace has
returned, a good opportunity to drop by for a bite.
21
Mitte
Mitte
Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve awardwinning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the
market.QF-3, Franzsische Strae 25, Mitte, MU
Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. .
TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good
rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
buildings original tile oors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a dierent menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Franzsische
Strae 47, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. . GB
Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00
Mon-Sun from 18:00
Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAU
Alt-Moabit 141
tel. 394 20 81
restaurant@paris-moskau.de
www.paris-moskau.de
ASIAN
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup
is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are
rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 69, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.
kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
MONSIEUR VUONG
Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
restaurant in Mitte. There are only ve dishes and two daily
specials, but theyre so delicious youll be ordering a second
bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gi
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. Youll have to ght
the ber-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take
reservations.QG-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . S
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly international,
as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate
from a famous Viennese caf that closed in the 1980s.
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates
elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct
from the market. The menu changes daily and has an
emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils
design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with
a large central skylight that retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer
Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
UGBW h
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister
and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined
palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the
Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany.
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since
pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in
London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ).
The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and
a fireplace.QF-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:3023:00. . PAG hh
PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government oces and hotels.
Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, theres a
lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. . A
INDIAN
BACK TO SCHOOL
AAPKA
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz,
Aapka oers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the
young Prenzl Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94,
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
. B
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district

is not just a place for trying German cuisine. Its the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. Theyre greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
INTERNATIONAL
NOLAS AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace,
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air
of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can
order meals until midnight.QG-2, Veteranenstrae 9,
Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66,
www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. . TUGBS
REINHARDS
Reinhards friendly sta can whisk a coee to your table
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3,
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. -.
TGBS
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolho, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2,
Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00
- 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. .
TGB
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,

tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
CAFS
BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly
cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there
are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg
Kaeersterei outlet (Bergmannstrae 21) has fresh coee.
QF-5, Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.
barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. .
TGBS
DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very
rst caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy
spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection
of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter
(8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your
electronic devices or use the free wi. Best of all are the
digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft
products or play Xbox games.QF-3, Unter den Linden
17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00
- 18:00. W
SANKT OBERHOLZ
A large two-oor caf overlooking the busy street crossing.
Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from
the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, its the ideal
place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using
the free wi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the
coee, bagels, muns and New York cheesecake.QG-2,
Rosenthaler Strae 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
Digital Eatery
23
Mitte
Mitte
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs,
the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and
food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the
game can book a tour including game instructions.
QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.
spielbank-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission
2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code
is smart casual.
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick o your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Strae haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from
12:00. EB
SOPHIENECK
A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
the most charming cafs in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
trendication, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
of art nouveau and poster art. The menu oers delicious
Central European fare, accompanied by an international
wine list.QG-2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00.
Nightlife
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a gratied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, aordable beers and cocktails, a
stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters
intent on having a good night out. In summer, the
outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign lms in
original version.QG-3, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de,
www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open
from 14:00. ENBW
Soda Club
MEIN HAUS AM SEE

Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the
My Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope of
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
its a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
the menu are drinks, exotic coee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG2, Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn ospring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though
it often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for
making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2, Novalisstrae 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel.
+49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
CLUBS
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has
withstood decades of the alternative scenes smoke
KNUTSCHFLECK
The hickey is Berlins newest Burlesque-style bar, on
Alexanderplatz. Run by a group of local ladies, this is a
caf, Biergarten, restaurant, cocktail bar and show theatre
in one. Every Friday and Saturday theres live music and
stage performances, inspired by Coyote Ugly, Rocky Horror
Picture Show, Pulp Fiction, Moulin Rouge and more. On
Tuesday and Thursday guests are welcome to sing karaoke.
Theres also local food, beer and cakes, and a selection of
150 cocktails that uctuate in price as demand changes.
QG-3, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
www.knutschfleck-berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
Knutscheck
House - RnB - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
and its stuck-in-the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect
for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminers wild and sweaty
Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams
and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning
anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2,
Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel.
+49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th oor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying no) on the corner of OttoBraun-Strae.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.
PUBS
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Soda
Club
KILKENNY IRISH PUB

The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station oer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages ow freely.QG-3,
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW
25
Mitte
Mitte
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans in 1792, is
the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the goddess of victory,
drives the four-horsepower chariot atop the gate. German
armies used to begin their parades here, the fascists spoiled the
gate by staging their torch-lit marches through it, the war badly
damaged it, and then the Wall essentially bricked the patchedup gate in for decades. Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989
by standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the
gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF-3,
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
GENDARMENMARKT
Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early
1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans)
and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The
name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments
were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstrae, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the
restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866,
with preserved evidence of its destruction, rst on Kristallnacht
on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs.
Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish
community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped
here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle
but eective sound installation adds to the experience.QF-3,
Oranienburger Strae 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open
Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:0017:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu
until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission 3,50/3.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche.
The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins 750th birthday

in the area in which the shermens settlement rst began.
No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could aord. The small shops in the
area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly
ll the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstrae, theres a row of restaurants that aunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
Hotel and oce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on re
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the buildings history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic
view from the top. Its best to book an entry time to the dome
EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR

Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstrae 47 / corner Zimmerstrae | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de
HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE

Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM

ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.
or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance
online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor
centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der
Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.
de/htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up
to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side
exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36,
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission 7/4.
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top oor. Free
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking
is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
FRANZSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkts
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly
to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has
regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche
church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the
Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated
to the thousands of French protestants who moved to
Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the

viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great
views all around.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischerdom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00,
closed Mon. Admission 2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1.
ONE YEAR
MICROSOFT BERLIN
The rst publicly accessible Microsoft Center in the

world opened on Berlins Unter den Linden boulevard
in late 2013. The historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building
with its great architectural details (try to spot the cats
and mice around the side door) is the most pluggedin building in the street. The Digital Eatery caf on the
ground oor (see the review elsewhere in this guide)
has more than just good food and drinks visitors
can use the free wi, recharge their devices and try
out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware
and software, with sta at hand to answer questions.
The atrium behind the caf is used for meetings,
performances and parties, while upstairs corporate
clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360 video
walls. Microsoft Berlin also has oces and a Microsoft
Ventures Accelerator for start-ups in the building.
MICROSOFT BERLIN
QUnter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70,
www.microsoft-berlin.de. Caf open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
27
Mitte
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree oers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann
are some of the artists whose works hang around
this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like
structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by
a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestrae
1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art
collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical
antiquities were the focus, and today the museum
uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a wellpresented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and
Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full
of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and
Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular
nds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and
King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection
has nds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval
Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered
statues that were considered to be degenerate art
by the Nazis.QG-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019.
Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the
amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way
from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3,
Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
12/6.
MEMORIALS
FHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler
lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid
shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete
ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking
to the end of In den Ministergrten, o Ebertstrae. A
parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed o
during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The bunker
was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.QF-3, In den
Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germanys national memorial to those victims. The
design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a eld of
2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating
an undulating landscape that lls two city blocks. The
memorial has an undergound information centre which is
not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-Berliner-Strae 1,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36,
besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftungdenkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, OctMar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF-4,
Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@bfgg.
de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/3,50.
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlins very own fastfood creation. A spicy sausage snack that rst became popular
in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train
stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum
explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. Theres a
shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst
too.QF-4, Schtzenstrae 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00. Admission 11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building
on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler
companys art collection is presented in four well-curated
exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract
artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the
larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets
around the museum.QE-4, Alte Potsdamer Strae 5,
Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung.
daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
DAL - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZ
The Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dal, left a rich
heritage of amazing artworks when he went to moltenwatch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at
this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true
genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches,
books, lms, objects, and documents that are on show here.
English-language tours can be booked in advance.QF-4,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 11/9, tours 6.
International
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

The former imperial arsenal - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
building by the Spree - houses the impressive German
History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building give
excellent insight into what makes Germany tick, and there
are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension
by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for 3
or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at
13:00.QF-3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission 8/4. Under 18 free.
museum
open daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
(24th December closed)
GEDENKSTTTE BERLINER MAUER

(BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL)
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Walls history in text, slides and dramatic lm footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Strae
111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
open 24hrs). Admission free.
GEMLDEGALERIE
Berlins largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning
the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Drer,
Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by
Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good
with a Vermeer and the worlds largest Rembrandt collection.
QE-4, Matthikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum,
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/4.
Potsdamer Platz
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
Hmmage S. Dal by DaVial
MUSEUMSINSEL
Mitte
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin)

Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14 /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max
0,42 /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot
be combinded with other offers. Valid until March, 31st 2015.
With over 450 exhibits from private

collections this permanent exhibition
provides general insight into Dals virtuous
mastery in almost all art techniques,
in Berlins lively city centre.
www.DaliBerlin.de
29
Mitte
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those
curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of
animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers xated by
bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel
Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s
collection.QE-2, Invalidenstrae 50-51, Mitte, MS/U
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spkberlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
MUSEUM FR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country
with a strong lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Olympia (1936)
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda lms will impress
seen-that lm bus. The museum ends with special eects
and science ction.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission 6/4,5.
MUSEUM FR NATURKUNDE
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstrae 43,
Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
Mitte
VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating oor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QG-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
www.tv-turm.de. Admission 12/8.
Shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
ve oors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs. Theres a
massive kids area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
MALL OF BERLIN
Opened in late September, this huge shopping mall sits on
the spot where the famous Wertheim department store
dazzled Berliners 100 years ago. The huge billion-euro mall
has all the usual fashion and electronics retailers, a food
court and supermarkets in the basement. Centrepiece
is a spectacular 23-metre high covered piazza.QF-4,
Leipziger Platz 12, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, www.
mallofberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Hotels
OVER 200
NEUE NATIONALGALERIE
Youd think that the art world had gone to minimalist
extremes when passing Mies van der Rohes empty glass
box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all
underground. The marvellous collection includes Otto Dix,
George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and
Leger and many more modern artists.QE-4, Potsdamer
Strae 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the sta provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
More reviews online:

HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.

com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnicent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103 doubles
395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).
MARRIOTT
Ten oors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall
plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a
classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlins
nest hotels.QE-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com.
379 rooms (350 singles 159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 219, 9 suites 350 - 1200, 80 executive room 199 - 259).
Breakfast extra. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
RITZ-CARLTON
A gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet
dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining
a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark
wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at
18:00 and serves over 400 ne fruit brandies.QE/F-4,
Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 33 77 77, berlin@ritzcarlton.com, www.
ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles 250 - 360, doubles
280 - 440, 40 suites 330 - 5000). Breakfast extra.
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy
of the Adlons marble staircase situated in the lobby, a
round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler

service.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.
com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles
136 - 350, 273 doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 - 930, 15
junior suites 279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLGKDC
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150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.
de. 157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded oors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldsh
pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstrae
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms
(singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225). AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys thirdlargest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
renovated and stocked with a coeemaker and ironing
board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles
89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130 - 185).
Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
31
Charlottenburg & the West

Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down
Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting becomes
more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafs
branching o Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved
east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy
Wilmersdorf and Schneberg, the centre of gay Berlin
since the days of Christopher Isherwoods Berlin Stories.
Weve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten
(ocially part of Mitte) here.
GETTING THERE
Charlottenburgs nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway and
easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From heres
its a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on
the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstrae or west
down Kurfrstendamm.
POCKET WALK: CHARLOTTENBURG
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins
and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstrae for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or
head west along Kantstrae to leafy Savignyplatz for calm
cafs and rened dining, or southwest down grand old
Kurfrstendamm for more shopping.
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APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5,
Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. -. UNGBS
BAVARIUM
A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the
Europa-Center mall by the Gedchtniskirche. Where buxom
waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses
of Lwenbru, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune
of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4,
Tauentzienstrae 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.
bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . TUG
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on oer at rustic
Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. Theres also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TB
ZILLEMARKT
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his
charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll in and order a
jellied boiled pork, stued cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst.
Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner,
and you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, www.zillemarkt.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB
Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
1000 m
sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Omas Rote Grtze (a vanilla

pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel
make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg
cuisine.QD-5, Motzstrae 61, Schneberg, MU ViktoriaLuise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_
weltlaterne@yahoo.de, www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.
de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. . TEB
SCHNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern
on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel
variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree,
ldstr
Zillemarkt
RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a dierence. The interior is kept
casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food.
Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed
mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a
selection of tasty Alsatian ammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstrae
54, Schneberg, MU Eisenacher Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20
59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. .
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If downtown to you means wide, trac-lled streets,

crowds of shoppers, ve-star hotels and tall buildings,
then Charlottenburg comes closest to tting the bill in
Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedchtniskirche church, left
as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between
it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is
being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and oces.
Restaurants & Cafs
Renger-Patzsch
33

AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC-4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
Suksan
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
JJ
Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant
Over 100 years of

comfort and quality
Traditional German cuisine
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well o the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in dierent variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3,
Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who
cant move well after a seven-course meal make a point of
staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and
the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on
the menu.QD-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20,
www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
. G h
HUGOS
The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant
on the 14th oor has stunning views across the park
to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is
equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending ne
avours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Strae
2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26
02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30.
Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGW h
INTERNATIONAL
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the rst to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French nesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
. UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. . UGB
SUKSAN
Sawatdi Kap welcome to Suksan. Experience a

temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
healthy and original ingredients are central to our
dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Kudamm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. -.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only.
Every day theres a completely dierent menu, with European
and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4,
Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae,
tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . NGS
ITALIAN
FRANCUCCIS
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
trues.QB-4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Knigsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00. B
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubhne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69
68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TNGBS
Ansbacherstrasse 4
(corner of Kurfrstenstrasse)
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
TRAVEL FAR.
EAT
AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
ORIGINAL
THAI
FOOD
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfrstenstrasse
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz
Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
Telefax 030.21 01 86 88
www.suksan.de
35

ZWLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options oer good value. Also at Georgenstrae 2,
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustrae
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. .
TNGBS
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
. TGBS
MAROOUSH
Rened Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern
twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant,
shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and
tasteful dcor enhancing the equally exotic menu.
Pu on a shisha as you await your meal or come
on Friday or Saturday for dinner and dance, with
belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 48, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35,
www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E
CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly caf in gay old Schneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. Theres fair trade coee, quality
teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD-4/5, Motzstrae 30, Schneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. . ABW
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone caf. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. . TUGBS
Nightlife
SPANISH
BARS
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can
weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include
Moorish and Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if
you just want to snack while watching the boulevards
shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 02:00. . B
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things
after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite
steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstrae 50, Schneberg,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.
de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and
then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake.
This caf, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of
champions until 16:00 as well as regional food,
coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.
QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. -. TUGB
CAF IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly ued pups, but you dont have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers
and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,
Fasanenstrae 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae,

tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.
de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. .
GB
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelsch is, among other things, the term
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out
the beer or coee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW
JAZZ CLUBS
A-TRANE
Concerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustrae 1, Charlottenburg,
MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, info@atrane.de, www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 04:00. E
Caf im Literaturhaus

37

UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this
whisky pub is one of Berlins rst true pubs and continues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too home made snacks and and
Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlterstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.
unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun
Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

WHISKIES
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Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
Irish Harp
Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49

30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; NovMar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00,
Tues closed. Admission 12/8, New Wing 6/5. Photo
permit 3.
PUBS
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and theres quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun
from 10:00. -. EBW
CHURCHES
Union Jack
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
German, Irish and international cuisine

Thursdays fun-quiz in German & English
Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00
Live sports events on big screens!
See our website for the event calendar
Open Monday Friday from 1 pm

Saturday & Sunday from 10 am
Giesebrechtstrae 15 // Berlin-Charlottenburg
info@harp-pub.de www.harp-pub.de
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
oating roof whose translucent skin oers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30
25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.
olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission 7/5.
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its nal form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a plaque:
The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of
Gods judgement, which befell our people during the war
years.The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride:
even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel
and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are
worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained
glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many
of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.
gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission free.
C/O BERLIN
On 30 October, the famed C/O photo gallery reopens in the
iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. Theres
space for multiple exhibitions, and the gallery kicks o with
Will McBrides series I Fell in Love With the City showing
how post-war Berlin awakened in the 1950s. Check the site
for opening hours and prices.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae
22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel.
+49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org.
MUSEUM FR ASIATISCHE KUNST

Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian
Art museum has an impressive permanent collection
of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and
archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and
in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art.
Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are
of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.
QTakustrae 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3.
PARKS AND GARDENS

TIERGARTEN
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
waterways is the most genteel of Berlins parks, but its
still a ne place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessule
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
point in the middle of the park. The parks caf and beer
garden, Caf am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E-3/4.
COLD WAR BERLIN

The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them,
has led to huge dierences that cannot be erased in
a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus
am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox
Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition,
and the Trnenpalast, the former border crossing
beside Friedrichstrae station. Get insights into
daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the
Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
39

Shopping
SHOPPING CENTRES
BIKINI BERLIN
The new Bikini Berlin concept mall is Berlins shopping
sensation of the year. Inside the renovated landmark 1950s
building is a set of boutiques selling everything from
fashion, beauty and electronics to art, plus a supermarket,
restaurants and cafes. On the lower level there are a dozen
cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best of all is the huge
terrace with great views across the zoo.QD-4, Budapester
Strae 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun Terrace
open 24hrs.
KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (KADEWE)
Europes largest department store, Berlins answer to
Harrods has 64 escalators linking seven huge oors, with
two oors devoted completely to gourmet food. Have
oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of
your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstrae 21-24,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212
10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Hotels
OVER 200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set in the
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting
mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style
bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches
and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand
suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned
with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool
can be found in the spa area, and theres the rst-class
Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.
com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from 200, 20 suites 290740). PHUFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental oers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food at
Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation
options can be found in the large spa complex, with
several saunas and tness facilities.QD-4, Budapester
Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten,
tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com, www.
interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 - 350, 498
doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500). Breakfast
extra.
PTHAUFLEGBKDCW
hhhhh

KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Kudamm.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles 265 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59
singles 200 - 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325, 32 suites
325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
SAVOY BERLIN
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode
once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy
guest. Who knows who youll trade smoke rings
with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar.
QC-4, Fasanenstrae 9-10, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, info@
hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms
(45 singles 142 - 222, 62 doubles 152 - 232, triples
192 - 272, 16 suites 202 - 292). ARFKD
hhhh
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFRSTENDAMM
The 11-story, French-style Sotel impresses with sleekly
designed rooms with ne woods, contemporary art
and fantastic views from the upper oors. The curved
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Strae 41, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles 230 280, doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950). Breakfast
extra.
SWISSTEL BERLIN
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine
and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos.
When youre done playing in your room, downtown
western Berlin beckons. Youll never want to go home.
QC-4, Augsburger Strae 44, Charlottenburg, MU
Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, berlin@
swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.com. 316
rooms (219 singles 160 - 310, 219 doubles 160
- 310, 14 suites 310 - 480, 11 junior suite 260
- 410). Breakfast 21. PHARFLGD
hhhhh
WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a caf and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th oor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire oers ne dining and 650
wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from
250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
150-200
BLEIBTREU
Its hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that
share the deli and caf fronting the boutique-lined street.
The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are
furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics
and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustrae 31, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu.
com, www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles 115 157, 45 doubles 125 - 182). ARGK
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfrstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and
impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harrys
New York Bar and a sizeable spa and tness centre.QD4, Ltzowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms
(singles/doubles from 99, 40 suites from 139).
PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give
way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles.
Theres live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found
in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Ltzowplatz 17,
Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50,
info@hotel-berlin.de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms
(103 singles 100 - 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29
suites 220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD
hhhh
BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL

After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin
found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedchtniskirche stands the gleaming new
Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary Bikini
Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours Hotel
Bikini Berlin. Just across the tracks, the C/O Berlin photo
gallery opens this autumn. If thats not enough reason to
look west, the intriguing West:Berlin exhibition opens
in mid-November. Find information about all these
Western attractions elsewhere in this guide.
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles 80 - 150,
doubles 79 - 180, triples 105 - 200). HLGKW
BEST WESTERN PRESIDENT
Huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an oldtime clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business
travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, theres also a tness
centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der
Urania 16-18, Schneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 90 30, info@president-hotel.de, www.
president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles 79 - 155, 153
doubles 96 - 183, 3 suites 189 - 305). Breakfast extra.
PHARFGKD hhhh
ELLINGTON HOTEL
Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfrstendamm and
named after the American jazz legend, the Ellingtons rooms
have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
Suites oering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.
com. 285 rooms (singles 108 - 238, doubles 118 - 248,
suites 168 - 428). PJHARUFLK
SYLTER HOF
Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
QD-3, Kurfrstenstrae 114-116, Schneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhofberlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
singles 69 - 120, 40 doubles 99 - 180, 40 suites 129
- 210). HAG hhh
41
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast
of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an
old working-class district
in the former East Berlin
that came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrication here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Bergs best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.
POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG

Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstrae from U-Bahn
station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
into beautiful Husemannstrae, which was already
restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistrae
where youll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Strae
and amble down Lychenerstrae to pretty, caf-lined
Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstrae west, turn left
down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
station to Eberswalder Strae; youll soon reach the
popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Strae
with its excellent Wall Memorial.
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Modern and light German food

on Berlins catwalk no.1
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5 -50
info@restaurant-die-schule.de
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This award-winning restaurant is a ne blend of tradition,
innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly
regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German
and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish
and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house
speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly
recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstrae 50, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.
zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
FAST FOOD
KONNOPKES IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Strae U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG-1, Schnhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. .
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for esh can grill n
chill. Sta in 1930s outts serve excellent steaks, cooked
anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the
undecided, theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve
into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 67 54 14, www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 open end.
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DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlins prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
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GERMAN
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to ll up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buet.QH-2, Husemannstrae
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. -. TBSW
PRECISE MYERS
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground oor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Strae
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles 75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
- 185, 1 suite 195 - 345, 10 Premium 115 - 265).
HARG
GETTING THERE
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Strae, close to most attractions.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstrae you can use tram
M1 to Eberswalder Strae as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer
Strae and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.
Restaurants & Cafs
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatzs gentrication,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schrder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made
surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share
the menu; this is where to try ammekuchen, a thin-crust
Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is
friendly.QH-2, Knaackstrae 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@tonline.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . A
43
Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2,
Schnhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
Prenzlauer Berg
TOURIST INFORMATION
MUSEUMS
PRENZLAUER BERG
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Prenzlauer Bergs district tourist information centre
is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Sta advise
about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG1/2, Schnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.
tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZELS MIETSHAUS

Gentrication has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzels apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living
conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1,
Dunckerstrae 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee,
tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.
de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2/1.
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this ve-table joint, but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about 3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and sta speak
English.QH-2, Rykestrae 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .
CAFS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha ower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed caf. Serving up
coee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
its one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells owers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door and the smell of coee and
fresh owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstrae 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
Noise and Smoke is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But its more than just a caf - the adjacent
hotel has modern and aordable double rooms.QG-1,
Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub
but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced oers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). Theres an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH-2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation
and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to
help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass.
There are few better places to try the outstanding
German whites that usually dont make it out of
the country and theres also a selection of sherries.
QH-1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large living room is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and
GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make
room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres
coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestrae
6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00
- 04:00.
BARS
CLUBS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner
Strae 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of
this otherwise spacious cellar. Dont miss the mad
monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many
clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark
courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Schillingstrae, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05,
www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00
- 06:00.
PARKS AND GARDENS
Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770, tausche.de
MAUERPARK
The immensely popular Wall Park has no greenery to speak
of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip thats
especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a ea market and the
immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from
15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a
crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Strae, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.mauerpark.info.
Shopping
BOOKS
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is
a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is
played on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting off with
a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays theres five
dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance
classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchnhauser
Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.
soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and youll eventually nd an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is lled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you wont nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG-2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
SHAKESPEARE & SONS

An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1,
Raumerstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel.
+49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
FASHION & SHOES

TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable aps in over
100 dierent designs. Two aps are
included and various insets equip the
bag to suit any occasion.QH-1,
Raumerstrae 8, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 40 30 17 70, info@tausche.de,
www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs
and antiques - its all available (though not particularly
cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark ea market. Arrive early
to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Strae 63-64,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, tel. 0176 29 25 00
21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.
45
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has
completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, grati
and leftist students moaning about Touris encroaching on
their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Strae
is full of cafs and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the
popular Sunday eamarket. In the former border zone along
the river, the MediaSpree development plans for oces,
apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear theyll lose public access to the river. This
chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.
Restaurants & Cafs

GERMAN
KEULE
Keule, pronounced coy-ler and berlinerisch for bro,
is an authentic corner in an increasingly international
district. It serves regional cuisine classics such as
soljanka soup, a hefty farmers breakfast, traditional
pork knuckle, cured smoked pork and berry compote
dessert. Later on, theres cocktails and sports
on the large screen.QSimon-Dach-Strae 22,
30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from
12:00. . AUB
GETTING THERE
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Strae, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From
Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram,
known as the party tram at night.
SCHNEEWEISS
Schneewei is extremely stylish, very popular, and
very, very white. The delicious Alpine and new German
cuisine on the menu here is easily a match for the
chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if youre looking for a fullon dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstrae
16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel.
+49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.
de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. .
TGBS
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POCKET WALK: FRIEDRICHSHAIN

Get o the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Strae; enjoy the city
panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty
red-brick Oberbaumbrcke bridge before heading north into
the district. Turn right on Revaler Strae and left on SimonDach-Strae for Friedrichshains most touristy stretch of bars
and cafs. A right on Krossener Strae takes you to Boxi,
Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday ea market.
Walk north along Grtnerstrae and Mainzer Strae to reach
the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it
becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstrae
for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.
ASIAN
GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with gingermango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings.
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the
vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of drinks and
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by;
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective
lines, theres a large harbour scene on one wall and the
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI4, Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel.
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . AUBSW
INTERNATIONAL
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
what more does a meat-lover want? Theres a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. . TUNGBS
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very rst thing that we learnt to bake together with our
mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its
own caf dedicated to it. Try The King cupcake (with Elvis
favourite ingredients), the sweet Pretty in Pink or any of
the other 20-odd creations. Theres a good breakfast and
coee served at Cup Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Strae 12,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 25
76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
TUVNGBSW
CAFS
KAUFBAR
At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate croissant
with either a coee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine,
you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work,
chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in
the Buy Bar are their board games.QJ-4, Grtnerstrae 4,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29
77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue,
Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf. Theres
old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good
coee and original South American mate tea, sipped through
a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI-4, Grtnerstrae 14,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73
59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www.macondo-berlin.
de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS
COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
Stroll through decades of computer game history, from
the 1951 Nimrod calculating robot, the legendary Pong
machine and other 1980s gaming machines to 3D
simulators. Theres a total of 300 exhibits, including rare
originals and working classics. You can try out about 24
games yourself, and have a go at Ataris huge 1977 Jumbo
Joystick.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain,
MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.
computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Tue. Admission 8/5.
MUSEUMSWOHNUNG WBS 70
Travel back to 1986 and visit a GDR workers dream property;
this mundane but much-coveted prefab Plattenbau
museum home is the last of 42,000 such apartments with all
its original ttings (drab wallpapered ceilings), appliances
(yoghurt machine, Albanian chairs) and decorations (lurid
oral patterns). The rent was 109 Marks, about 10% of the
average wage, but the colour TV cost 4,500 Marks. From the
station exit left and follow the street around the block. No
English spoken or captions; bring a local.QHellersdorfer
Strae 179, Hellersdorf, MU Cottbusser Platz, tel. +49
151 16 11 44 40. Open Sun 14:00-16:00, other days by
appointment. Admission free.
STASI MUSEUM
East Germanys State Security Service or Stasi was
responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and
abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing
the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to
keep an eye on. Today, this humble museum shows the
oce of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi minister for 32 years,
in its original dull state. Theres a video of him testifying
before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch, and
many documents in German.QRuschestrae 103, Haus 1,
Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30 553
68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/4. Closed until 17 Jan.
STASI PRISON
The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi
Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by
the Soviets and the GDRs secret service to extract confessions
in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschnhausen prison
swallowed thousands of people who underwent horric
physical and psychological torture in the chilling submarine
cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short lm is followed
by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how
eciently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever
escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder
Strae and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstrae 66, tel. +49 30
98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed,
Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission 5.
47
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
Thanks to a large Turkish
community and more
hippies, anarchists and
alternative folks than
you can shake a bong at,
Kreuzberg feels neither east
nor west. It was the black
sheep of West Berlin, literally
cornered up against the
death strip and left alone
to play loud music and
draw on the walls. By now,
the protesting students
of 1968 have grown grey
alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987,
Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional
May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into
a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and
its all about backgammon at the mens clubs, caf-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular
Oranienstrae and Bergmannstrae drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neuklln district. Here,
the Kreuzklln area around Reuterstrae is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.
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KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlins rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capitals gourmets as the
rst one to serve authentic dishes that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. Its indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be dicult to
nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Strae 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBSW
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litze
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CHAN
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical
Asian street food. Theres everything from Thai spring
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies
too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
. UNGBSW
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ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities
featuring things such as goats cheese, dumplings, mustard
sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.alteszollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. .
TUGBW
Simply one of the best

Thai restaurants in town.
It feels crowded, steamy
and noisy, but thats just
part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait
till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are own
in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. Theres
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstrae
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 24:00. . VBS
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POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG

Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
Luftbrcke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
and walk along genteel Bergmannstrae, perhaps
visiting a caf or the market hall, before walking south to
Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
airport, now a wonderful park.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
little Istanbul to Oranienplatz and follow the park to
the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstrae to
caf-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
line to lively Grlitzer Park. From here, go north into
Falckensteinstrae to discover more of Kreuzbergs street
art, or head south along Ohlauer Strae and across
Landwehrkanal into the trendy Kreuzklln district for
cupcakes and cocktails.
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s-Str.
Franz-Klh
es U
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tr.
Markgrafenstr.
Charlottenstr.
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Kochstr. U
er Bahnhof
tr.
tr.
elms
Wilh
lter
Str.
Zimmerstr.
Rudi-Du.tschke-S
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Charlie
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GETTING THERE
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from
Friedrichstrae station on the U6; get o at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzklln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schnleinstrae and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
49
Kreuzberg
Sarods
SARODS
Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). Theres a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstrae 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. .
TGBSW
AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. . TUBS
Kreuzberg
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and
simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden
overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian
ocers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmersrestaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. -.
TGBSW
FAST FOOD
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket Rockefella dish
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and theres vegan
wurst and burgers, and sweet
potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the board of pain.QBergmannstrae 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, youll
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
Jolesch
Friesenstrae 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
INTERNATIONAL
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptows Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional
and international meals to go with good sunset views
towards Oberbaumbrcke bridge, just upstream. For
daytime visitors theres drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit
up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstrae
4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03
40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. -.
NGBSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If theres such a thing as industrial charm, this is
where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant
with starkly modern and white furnishings
contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and
chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy;
in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its
riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.
QH-4, Kpenicker Strae 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.
sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon.
. TUEGBW
JOLESCH
Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after Tante Jolesch, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4,
Muskauer Strae 1, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. . GB
Thai restaurant
who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities

you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried
burgers, Boulette.QF-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.
curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. . S
Open daily 12:00-24:00

Sundays from 14:00
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
cocktails simply go next door to the Wrgeengel bar.QH4, Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. . B

Fantastic Berliner
ner
e Currywurst,
Curryw
quality organic
g c and
a vega
vegan
g snacks,,
and
nd a ranggee of hoto chili
c ssauces.
sauces
ITALIAN
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Je Koons porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious
Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food,
and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try
the Strasburgo ammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard
and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60,
www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. -.
TUNGBSW
Open daily
ily 122:0
2:00-24:00
Sunday 12:000-21:00
Bergmannstrrae 88
Berlin-Kreuzbberg
www.bergmann-currry.com
51
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
OSTERIA N1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood xture has a fantastic
Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from dierent parts of
Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six
dierent lunch menus from 7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstrae 71,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62,
www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . B
Vicolo Bergmann
VICOLO BERGMANN
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas
or the meat and sh dishes, and theres home-made bread
too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Dont miss the
sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
BEER GARDENS
Osteria N1
LUFTGARTEN
The large Biergarten around the former US ocers casino
in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables
beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun.
Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers
and other international food.QTempelhofer Freiheit
Park, Columbiadamm entrance, tel. +49 152 22 55 91

75, www.luftgarten-berlin.de. Open from 12:00 until
around sunset. . UENGBS
CAFS
CAF AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michaels church
is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal.
Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace
caf. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes
this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near
the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once
lled with rubble, and part of the Walls death strip?). Pizza and
snacks are served and they oer a choice of cocktails.QH-4,
Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel.
+49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . TUNGBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866,
the cake emperor is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were
sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s.
The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities
and international dishes. Theres a great choice of breakfasts,
a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A mustsee in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU
Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. . B
SALON SCHMCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood caf that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and
fantastic home-made juice just make your own selection
of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
even the occasional living room concert.QI-4, Skalitzer
Strae 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49
30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. . TNGBSW
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals belly
up to. Its a restaurant that doesnt
let its looks carry it: the kitchen
takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.
QH-4, Pcklerstrae 34, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurantmarkthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . B
53
Kreuzberg
Nightlife
Kreuzberg
Sightseeing
BARS
MUSEUMS
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4,
Grossbeerenstrae 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlins best museums is unmistakably recognisable
by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main
building. The huge complex set in and around an old
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes,
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there
are windmills and a brewery. Theres a hands-on Spectrum
science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Strae
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,5.
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark dcor can heighten your wooziness if
youve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuffelstrae
41, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
WRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuels
lm El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a
great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a
dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all o, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener
Strae 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30
615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00.
. B
CLUBS
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
thats home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or
Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the
friendly door sta.QH-4, Oranienstrae 190, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.
so36.de. Check their website for opening times.
UENG
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlins rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. Theres an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Strae 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE

A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools,
videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest
to necessity and desire being the mother of invention.
Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers,
freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in
the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art
interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit
on human rights movements.QF-4, Friedrichstrae 4345, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 251 20 75,
www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission
12,50/9,50.
JDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
ways in which German life and Jewish history are
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark voids for
contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than
the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF4, Lindenstrae 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor,
tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00
- 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 5/2,50, special
exhibitions 4/2, combined ticket 7/3,50.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter Bauhaus
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an
arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau
hosts excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David
Bowie.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars
are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich
Security (SS) Oce. The fascinating exhibition in the
trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models,
texts and photos to highlight the topography of the
Third Reich police, military and security groups that
were headquartered in this area, and discusses their

organisation and the terror they cast across Europe.
The most important lesson to take home is perhaps
that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks
to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4,
Niederkirchnerstrae 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae,
tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open
10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
PARKS & GARDENS

TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Where else can you run for ve minutes with your eyes
closed? Berlins most amazing space is this historic and
wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed
in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the
runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters
and kiteboarders; the elds around them are used by
rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers,
barbecuers, artists, kite-yers, gardeners and dogwalkers. Theres even a Biergarten at the northern end.
Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing
time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations
Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm,
MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open
March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May &
Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:0019:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00.
Admission free.
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkels memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to
the corner of Kreuzbergstrae and Grobeerenstrae
for an eyeful of the parks waterfall, constructed in
the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers
wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres
above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden
monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards
the back of the park, past a playground and off the
Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running
parallel to Kreuzbergstrae is a small petting zoo
where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF-5,
Kreuzbergstrae, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.
Shopping
MARKETS
MARHEINEKEHALLE
The old Markthalle XI from 1892 is now an upmarket and
slightly sterile venue for the organic market with about
50 stalls selling everything from bread to cheese and
fruit, much of it from the region.QF-5, Marheinekeplatz,
Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae, www.meinemarkthalle.de. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
BERLIN IN BOOKS
Over 5,000 so-called stumbling
stones or Stolpersteine have
been laid on Berlins streets
since the mid-1990s. These
small bronze plaques each
commemorate one victim of
the Nazis, and are laid in the
public pavement in front of the
last voluntary place of residence.
Private individuals can research,
request and pay for a stone,
and regular Berliners often polish them up and lay
candles. Theyre dedicated to all kinds of people; Jews,
homosexuals, members of the resistance, euthanised
handicapped and elderly Germans, and many others.
A new English-language book, edited by the Aktives
Museum Faschismus und Widerstand, has 12 detailed
neighbourhood walks linking dozens of Stolpersteine,
highlighting the personal tragedies behind each stone,
and the Nazi-era history of whole city districts. The
well-illustrated texts come with clear directions, maps
and historical photos.
Stumbling Stones in Berlin (Aktives Museum
Faschismus und Widerstand 2014, no ISBN) is for
sale for 12 at Dussmann, Berlin Story, bookshops
on Bayerischer Platz, and at the Aktives Museum
(Stauenbergstr. 13-14, www.aktives-museum.de).
MARKTHALLE IX
Everything you need for a picnic in Grlitzer Park. A
historical market hall from 1891 has been revived
with a weekly market (Fri, Sat), selling organic fruit
and vegetables, cheese, bread, meat and smoked fish.
There are snack stands with picnic tables, a childrens
corner and a restaurant that serves a delicious
organic lunch menu every day. The busy Streetfood
Thursday has hipsters showing up in droves, and
theres breakfast on Sunday and occasional crafts and
deli market days too.QH-4, Eisenbahnstrae 42,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577
09 46 61, www.markthalle9.de. Open Fri, Sat 10:0018:00. Admission free.
SOUVENIRS & GIFTS

HERRLICH
Set the ladies loose in the mall; men will find what they
really need at Herrlich, a quirky mens gift shop stocking
body care products, clothing accessories, barbecue
gear and essential gadgets.QF-5, Bergmannstrae
2, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 784
53 95, www.herrlich-online.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
55
City tours
City tours
B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.
stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the
gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements.
Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlins dark,
fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also
free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight
tours, a street art workshop and an anti-pubcrawl.
QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.
alternativeberlin.com. Tickets 10-20.
Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture
Berlin from below

Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different tours every day see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de

Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall Brunnenstrae 105
Theres a story on every corner in Berlin, though youll need
a guide to hear it. Its a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real
Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-ung, so plan
your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public
transportation. If youre here for a limited amount of time,
we highly recommend you join one of the walking or
cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights.
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS

BERLIN CITY TOUR
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary;
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfrstendamm 14,
the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-o
as you like. Theres also a narrated Wall & Lifestyle tour taking
in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets 15/12/5.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to

experience Berlins history from an unusual perspective,
through its underground installations dating back to the
Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly
in the spaces below Berlins Gesundbrunnen station,
tours are also oered in several other complexes that
are usually not accessible to the public. With prior
notication, tours can be arranged for groups of
minimum 20 people at other times.
The following tours are held in English; they also take
place in German and Spanish at other times, and various
tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES

Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-o
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
languages. Kurfrstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
the two main starting points, but you can get on and o at
some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner
Bren Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing
(www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr
Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.
berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 22/11.
Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) 16,50/11.
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS

ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS
After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, 12)
youll know all about Berlins subcultures, the grati and
Tour 1: Dark Worlds A bunker from the Nazi era. MarNov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon
11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.
Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris.
Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.
Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues
11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.
Tour M Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean
escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.
For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.
de. Tickets 10/8, Tour M 13/10 (no reservation
required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance
of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstrae
105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.
ANITA SIKORAS BERLIN WALKS

The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora oer a
wide choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter
Benjamin themed tours, walks around the Pankow district,
to the Walls course through the industrial Fireland district.
Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49
176 68 60 16 63, anitaeva75@gmail.com, www.anitasikora.com. Tours 9.
BERLIN LOCALS
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by
limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate
historical events to their familys personal experience. Tour
themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich
to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also
licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are
in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours 40 per
hour, 250 per day.
BREWERS BERLIN
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the
city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20).
The meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice
cream shop near Friedrichstrae station; no bookings
are required.QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49
177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets
15/12.
CITY SEGWAY TOURS
Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after
a short driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the fourhour general tours (10:00 and 15:00, 67), or the shorter
afternoon tour (15:00, 43). Drivers license required.QG-3,
Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 30 24 04 79 91, berlin@citysegwaytours.com, www.
citysegwaytours.com.
FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS
Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin
through town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour
(11:00, from May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu,
Sat at 10:30), the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at
10:30) and the Raw tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun
at 10:30); these tours cost 24/22 and no booking is
required. Call or email ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG3, Panoramastrae 1a (Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, www.
fattirebiketoursberlin.com.
INBERLIN TOURS
Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at xed
times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
www.inberlin.de. Tickets 10-16.
INSIDER TOURS
Insiders enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
Coee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, 12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
ISHERWOODS NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable Sodom on the Spree
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye
To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour
through Isherwoods Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com.
Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets
12.
NEW BERLIN TOURS
Free 3,5-hour city centre tours, popular with young
visitors who are just as interested in each other as in the
sights along the route (daily 11:00 and 13:00 from the
Brandenburger Tor Starbucks). They additionally oer
various themed tours and pub crawls.QF-3, Pariser Platz,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 51 05 00 30,
www.newberlintours.com. Tickets free/12.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets 12/10.
SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS
The Berlin blog dedicated to slow travel oers quirky
cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlins
most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West
Berlin, a walk on Kreuzbergs wild west side, a trip along
the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through
Kaiser Wilhelms Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/
tours. Tickets 15.

57
Potsdam
Directory
FILMPARK BABELSBERG
Over 3,000 lms have been shot at the famous Babelsberg
UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Langs Metropolis (1927). The
themepark surrounding the studios is great for children and
adults. Though the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners,
theres enough action to keep you amused, including stunt,
animal and pirate shows, studio tours and behind the scenes
insights into special eects through the years. Theres an Englishlanguage audioguide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take
bus N601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt
Babelsberg station and walk.QGrobeerenstrae, Potsdam,
MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.
de. Open 10:00-18:00. Sept closed Mon. Nov-Mar closed.
Admission 21/17, children 14.
Part of Berlins charm is its proud grittiness, but dont chide

yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on
the nerves of Frederick II the Great too. The ruler of Berlin
and all Prussia from 1740 to 1786 built his favorite abode
Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the town of Potsdam.
Without a worry was the French name of his palace, though
thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdor, craftsmen, and artisans, it is
hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended
as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out
the seasons he spent here, tourists dont have the same
privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and
April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park
Sanssoucis Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the
Neuer Gartens Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof.
Besides the palaces and parks, the compact towns centre,
half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The
Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee,
south of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the
log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian
choir who had helped the Prussians ght Napoleon. Most
of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick
Hollndisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed
settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in
some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in
the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen.
Potsdam basics
Potsdam is a short ride on the S-Bahn from central Berlin.
More information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten
Markt 5, tel. +49 331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de.
POTSDAM SIGHTS
FILMMUSEUM POTSDAM
Featuring the history of the nearby Babelsberg lm studios
and with changing exhibitions on the world of lm,
possibly the best thing about this museum are the evening
screenings of modern and classic international lms. Silent
lms are accompanied live by an antique cinema organ.
The Film Caf serves drinks and food.QMarstall am
Lustgarten/ Breite Strae 1a, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49
331 27 18 12, www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4,50/3,50.
SCHLOSS CECILIENHOF
Twentieth-century history was made here in August 1945
when Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar
Germany. This half-timber mansion between two lakes in the
Neuer Garten was nished in 1917. In the same park is the
Marmorpalais. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station take
tram N92 or 96 to Reiterweg/Alleestrae, then bus N603
to Schlo Cecilienhof.QIm Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam,
tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Nov-Mar open until 17:00. Admission 6/5.
SCHLOSS SANSSOUCI
The 18th century rococo-style Schloss Sanssouci (without
worries) has a gorgeous approach up a ight of vineyard
terraces. Frederick the Great loved his little Prussian Arcadia
and was buried on here at his own request. The original
palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens,
Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290
hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an
Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues Palais,
and Karl Friedrich Schinkels Schloss Charlottenhof, whose
interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkels
work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and
changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pngstberg
is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. On busy
days arrive early to secure tour tickets, or join the tourism
oces Sanssouci tour which includes the palace even when
day tickets are sold out. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station
take bus N612, 614 or 695.QMaulbeerallee, Potsdam, tel.
+49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open Apr-Oct 10:0018:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; park open 06:00-dusk.
Admission 12/8, park free or voluntary donation.
SPIELBANK POTSDAM
Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, the
building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Jokers Garden casino
since 2002 was designed by Frederick the Greats master builder
Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdor in the 1750s. Restored to
its former glory, the elegant building now is the venue for card
games, roulette and playing machines. Minimum age 18. Dress
code: smart, jacket required (rental available).QSchlostrae
14, Potsdam, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 290 93 00,
www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open 17:30 - 03:00. Access to
slot machines from 11:00. Admission 5.
ACCOUNTANTS
ERNST & YOUNG QFriedrichstrae 140, Mitte,
MS+U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 25 47 10, www.
ey.com.
KPMG QKlingelhferstrae 18, Tiergarten, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 206 80, www.kpmg.de.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Emergencies, ambulance, re tel. +49 30 112;
Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.
NRR STIEFENHOFER LUTZ QCharlottenstrae 57,

Mitte, MU Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 20 94 20 00,
www.noerr.de.
IRELAND QF-3, Jgerstrae 51, Mitte, MU

Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.
embassyofireland.de.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS QLeise-MeitnerStrae 1, Charlottenburg, MU Mierendorffplatz, tel.

+49 30 263 60, www.pwc.com.
NEW ZEALAND QF-3, Friedrichstrae 60, Mitte, MU

Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 206 210, www.nzembassy.com.
BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstrae 70-71,

Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 45 70,
www.britischebotschaft.de.
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

QCharlottenstrae 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de.
HOSPITALS
DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER

(CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Strae 29,
Mitte, MU Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80,
www.dihk.de.
DENTISTS
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE

QKlingsorstrae, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
+49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
CHARIT UNIVERSITTSKLINIKUM QF-3,
Schumannstrae 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.
DR. SUSANNE MNCHBERG QFasanen Strae 72,

Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 63 85.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
DR. WOLF-ULRICH KLOTZ QBayreuther Strae 8,

Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 213 10 10.
BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstrae 95, Mitte,

MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.
berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.
DOCTORS
DR. ALEXANDRA HEISER QKurfrstendamm 139,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00
91 01.
DR. KARIN WROBEL QSchnhauser Allee 126 A,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
448 57 67.
DR. MICHAEL OPPEL QDerfflingerstrae 14,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 44 72 81
28, www.integrative-medizin.com.
EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstrae 76-79, Mitte, MU
Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.
australian-embassy.de.
FRANCE QF-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www.
botschaft-frankreich.de.
GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU

Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.glsgerman-courses.de.
MOVING TO BERLIN
The following companies can help with every aspect of
relocation, including moving, permits, accommodation,
language courses and getting to know the local
community.
ANKE FREUDE RELOCATION SERVICES
QMesselstrae 23, MU Podbielskiallee, tel. +49 30 39
79 38 16, info@anke-freude.de, www.first-relocating.de.
ARRIVA RELOCATION QLeibnizstrae 60, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 32 77 43 11, info@arrivarelocation.de, www.arriva-relocation.de.
FIRST RELOCATING QKissinger Str. 67, MS
Hohenzollerndamm, tel. +49 30 826 14 51, info@firstrelocating.de, www.first-relocating.de/.
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F-4
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Grlitzer Strae
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nb unner Wegg
stenbr
Fr
Ackerstrae
Adalbertstrae
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Alt-Moabit
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Wed
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Index
Aapka
23
Adlon Kempinski
30
Admiralspalast
11
Adria
15
Aigner
22
Alexa Centre
30
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
21
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
56
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 57
Anna Blume
44
April
33
A-Trane
37
Aufsturz
24
August Fengler
44
Austria
50
Babylon Mitte
15
Barcomi's Deli
23
Bavarium
33
Bergmann Curry
50
Berlin, Berlin
41
Berlin City Tour
56
Berliner Dom
27
Berlinische Galerie
54
Berlin Locals
57
Berlin Plaza
41
Best Western President
41
Bikini Berlin
40
Black Box Cold War
28
Bleibtreu
41
Blue Man Group
11
Borchardt
22
Brandenburger Tor
26
Brewer's Berlin
57
Caf am Engelbecken
53
Caf am Neuen See
36
Caf im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
37
Central Kino
15
Chan
49
Cicciolina
51
CineStar IMAX & Original
15
City Circle Buses
56
City Segway Tours
57
C/O Berlin
39
Computerspielemuseum
47
Cupcake Berlin
47
Curry 36
50
Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28
Dal - The Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz
29
Das Stue
40
Deutsche Oper Berlin
10, 14
Deutscher Dom
27
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
28
Deutsches Historisches
Museum
12, 29
Deutsches Technikmuseum 54
Diekmann
34
Die Schule
43
Digital Eatery
23
Dressler
35
Duke
35
Einhorn
35
El Dorado
36
Ellington Hotel
41
English Theatre Berlin
12
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
24
Eventim
12
Facil
22
Fat Tire Bike Tours
57
Fernsehturm
30
Filmmuseum Potsdam
58
Filmpark Babelsberg
58
First Floor
34
Fischers Fritz
22
Fleischlust
43
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
45
Francucci's
35
Franzsischer Dom
27
Friedrichstadt-Palast
11
Fhrerbunker
28
Galander
54
Geburtstagsklub
44
Gedchtniskirche
39
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer 29
Gemldegalerie
29
Gendarmenmarkt
26
Glory Duck
47
Gorgonzola Club
51
Grand Hotel Esplanade
41
Green Door
37
Grenander Morning Glory 37
Gugelhof
43
Hackesche Hfe
15
Halle Tanzbhne
13
Hamburger Bahnhof
30
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 54
Hebbel am Ufer
13
Hefner
37
Hekticket
12
Herrlich
55
Hilton
30
Hinterm Horizont
11
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
31
Hoppetosse
51
Hotel de Rome
31
Hugos
34
InBerlin Tours
57
Insider Tours
57
InterContinental
40
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
57
Jolesch
50
Jolly
22
Joseph Roth Diele
21
Jdisches Museum Berlin
54
Kaffee Burger
25
Kamala
22
Kaufbar
47
Kaufhaus des Westens
40
Kempinski Bristol
40
Keule
46
Kilkenny Irish Pub
19, 25
Kimchi Princess
49
Knese
33
Knutschfleck
24
Koka 36
12
Komische Oper
10
Konnopke's Imbi
43
Konzerthaus Berlin
10
Kookaburra Comedy Club 13
Kuchenkaiser
53
Kulturbrauerei
45
La Forchetta
35
Locanda
35
Luftgarten
52
Macondo
47
Mall of Berlin
30
Mandala
31
Marheinekehalle
55
Markthalle IX
55
Marooush
36
Marriott
31
Martin-Gropius-Bau
54
Mauerpark
45
Mein Haus am See
25
Memorial to the Murdered Jews
of Europe
28
Microsoft Berlin
27
Milchbar
54
Monsieur Vuong
22
Museum fr Asiatische Kunst
39
Museum fr Film und
Fernsehen
30
Museum fr Naturkunde
30
Museumswohnung WBS 70 47
Mutter Hoppe
21
Neue Nationalgalerie
30
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
26
New Berlin Tours
57
Nikolaiviertel
26
Nolas am Weinberg
23
Olympic Stadium
38
Original Berlin Walks
57
Osteria N1
52
Ottenthal
34
Pagode
49
Palace
40
Papagena
12
Paris-Moskau
22
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz
31
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
44
Potsdamer Platz
26
Precise Myer's
42
Prenzlauer Berg Tourist
Information Centre
44
Quatsch Comedy Club
14
Radialsystem V
14
Reichstag
26
Reingold
25
Reinhard's
23
Renger-Patzsch
33
Restauration 1840
21
Restauration 1900
43
Riehmers
50
Ritz-Carlton
31
Rotisserie Weingrn
21
Sachiko Sushi
36
Sage Restaurant
51
Salon Schmck
53
San Diego Steakhouse
47
Sankt Oberholz
23
Santiago
44
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
40
Schall und Rauch
44
Schaubhne
14
Schloss Cecilienhof
58
Schloss Charlottenburg
38
Schloss Sanssouci
58
Schneewei
46
Schnitzelei
34
Schneberger Weltlaterne 33
Schwarzwaldstuben
21
Shakespeare & Sons
45
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
57
SO36
54
Soda Club
45
Sofitel Berlin Kurfrstendamm
40
Sophieneck
24
Spielbank Berlin
24
Spielbank Potsdam
58
Sputnik
15
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
11
Stasi Museum
47
Stasi Prison
47
Suksan
34
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
44
Swisstel Berlin
40
Sylter Hof
41
tausche Taschen
45
Tempelhofer Freiheit
55
The Harp
19, 38
Tiergarten
39
Tipi am Kanzleramt
11
Topographie des Terrors
54
Traube
23
Union Jack
38
Vicolo Bergmann
52
Viktoriapark
55
Waldorf Astoria
41
Week-End Club
25
Weinstein
44
Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53
Westin Grand
31
Wild at Heart
54
Wintergarten Varit
12
Wohnzimmer
44
Wrgeengel
54
Zander
43
Zillemarkt
33
Zille-Stube
21
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
45
Zwiebelfisch
37
Zwlf Apostel
36
Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54, Berlin - Schneberg

Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
CineStar
Pure fascinatio
on at Sony Center..
Experience the greatest blockbusters and
breath-taking documentaries on Berlins
largest screen featuring the worlds best
3D technique and luxurios leather seats.
Select shows in the original English version.
Find more info and tickets on cinestar-imax.de
Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz

IMAX ist eine eingetragene Marke der IMAX Corporation

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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

THE TOURIST TICKET

Getting around by S&U

All about Berlins top teams

Essential travel tips

Glhwein and ginger cookies

Culture & Events

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

free ride around the clock

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

The gentried north

Workers paradise, students playground

U Facilities for the disabled

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

Additional symbols for hotels

A Credit cards accepted

Dinner price guide

Middling; from 10-20 per person.

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

Royal palaces and grand gardens

Not cheap; 20-30 per person.

Genteel western Berlin

Expensive; more than 30 per person.

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Maps & Index

December 2014 - January 2015

Although the foreign press likes to go gaga over Germanys

Berlin In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more

Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great

Photo: Jan-Philipp Burmann/City-Press GbR

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the

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Berlin In Your Pocket

sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins image as an international

Berlins professional volleyball team originates in the

EISBREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)

FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)

QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Strae (O2 World),

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

Berlins main football team plays home matches at

Upcoming home games:

Upcoming home matches:

QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten

December 2014 - January 2015

CRIME & SAFETY

Berlin In Your Pocket

VISAS AND ENTRY

DRINKS & ALCOHOL

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Min Temp (C)

Max Temp (C)

SOPHIENSTRASSE CHRISTMAS ECOMARKET

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC

Royal Concerts on Christmas

Italy visiting Prussia

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