RPO79 MATERIAL WIDTHS: ALL PATTERNS DISPLAYED ARE IN UK16UNEP EAU
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MARKING THE MATERIAL:
4.4 Once you have cut each pattern piece in the corresponding mate-
Fil, star to mark your corner points. Mark each corner point ofall of the
patterns with chalk on the WRONG SIDE of your material only:
INTERIOR LAYER:
2.4 Join panels A,B,C,D,E & F. Stitch from the centre of each recently
marked comer point. Match notches.
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2.2 Press open seams and trim seam allowance to comer points. SeeEXTERIOR LAYER:
2.3 Follow See 2.1 - 2.2 to create the Exterior layer of the corset. You
‘should now, essentially, have two single layer corsets. See diagram,
INTERIOR LAYER
EXTERIOR LAYER
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LAYER
‘34. With right sides facing, place the interior and exterior layers
together (cightinterior panel with right exterior panel). Pin the two layers
together down the centre front and centre back seams, Match notches
and seams, See diagram,
‘3.2 Join the centre front of the interior and exterior layers. Stitch
between the notches marked on the paper pattern, The areas that you
leave unstitched will form holes for your busk to protrude from. Press
‘open seam and trim seam allowance to corner points. See diagram,
ga Bust doos not Fhe holes marked one paper peters STB
onto yout coset snd rrnate te noses 0 maton your bt, Leave
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‘3.3 Next, join the Centre Back seams of the interior and exterior layers,
‘Stich from point to point, press open seam and trim seam allowance to
cotner points3.4 Turn the corset right side out and press the centre back and centre
front edges fiat.
3.5 Take your shop-bought metal busk and place it between the two
layers (Interior/ Exterior) with the hoops facing towards the centre front.
Position it so that all hoops nicely slip through the unsttched holes in
the centre front. Push the busk towards the centre front so that ft fits
neatly up against it. You can use pins or hand tacking to hold itin place.
See diagram.
‘3.6 Machine stitch the busk in place. You are stitching through both
Exterior and Interior layers. Possibly use @ contrast thread to your
ccorsat material as a design feature. See diagram.
‘3.7 Match up the bottom and top edge of the corset and pin along the
top and bottom edge. Take a needle and thread and stitch the two
layers together following each vertical seam. You are not technically
‘sewing through any material. Instead, you are sewing through the seam
itselt. Do this for each and every seam on your corset halt. See
Se‘3.8 Topstitch the dotted lines over the bust. Be careful and make sure
that your stitching is neat. If you find it hard to fallow marked lines you
‘can use our tip. See next diagram,
‘Tipe Use he edge of your machine fool as a guide lo Keep your Ines evenly
spaced and perfectly parallel to each other, See dagrem
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BONING CHANNELS
4.4 BIAS BINDING: We recommend making your own bias binding
from the couti that you have used for the corset. i will last longer due
to its strength and it will match the colour of your corset. However, you
‘can also use some thick pre-made cotton bias binding available from
most haberdashers. You will need to use 0.8cm wide bias binding,
Tip: if you woud ike to make your own bias binding. you wil need @ BIAS
BINDING MAKER. Those can also be found at most haberdashers cr are
‘avalable 1 buy ontine.
4.2 Place the centre of your bias binding over the centre of each corset
‘seam (Exterior layer oniy). Take care and time to match the centres
perfectly. Pin in place or hand tack i neccessary.
4.3 Topstitch each bias binding strip to the exterior layer of your corset.
‘Stitch roughly mm from the edge of your bias binding. Do this down
both sides of the bias binding. See diagram,
&‘4. Trim the bias binding to match the top and bottom edge of your 4.7 Once you have cut you boning to match, insert it into each corre-
corset. See diagram. sponding channel.
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5.4 Cut yet another strip of bias binding about Som longer than the
bottom edge of your corset. Be careful when you measure it, making
ssure that you do not cut It too short. At the bottom edge, unfold and
place your bias binding wrong side up against the edge of your seam
allowance (on the EXTERIOR surface of the corset). Make sure thatthe
‘old, or groove, matches up with the seam allowance. This indicates the
line that you will sew when attaching your bias binding to the corset,
4.6 Lay a strip of boning over each bias binding channel. Trim the
boning to match the seam allowance of the corset. See diagram.
5.2 Before attaching the bias binding to your corset, fold over a tem
section at the starting point.'5.3 Stitch the bias binding to the corset along the unfokled edge of the
bias binding, Stop roughly 3-4 cm away from the Centre Front See
diagram. / 4
15.4 Fold the remaining bias binding in to line up with the cer
the corset. Pin if neccessary. Continue stitching along the unfolded
eige of the bias binding up to the cente front This will secure the
recently folded end ofthe bias binding. See diagram.
5.5 Turn the unattached edge ofthe bias binding away from the corset,
and press lightly with an iron.
5.6 Next, fold the unattached edge of the bias binding over to the
INTERNAL LAYER of the corset and press lightly with an iron (no
steam),‘8.7 Handstitch the unattached edge of the bias binding to the interior
layer of the corset. Use the stitching that you created, when attaching
the bias binding inthe frst place, as an anchor point. See diagrams.
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6.2 Fold the lace back around to the interior layer of the corset, wrap:
ping it around the centre front and centre back of the corset See
diagram,
LACE TRIM
6.1 Cut a strip of lace twice the length of the top edge of your corset
plus about 3cm extra. Place the lace right side up on top of the exterior
layer of your corset. Line up the middle of the lace strip with the midla
‘of your corset and pin in place, Make sure that the decorative edge of
your lace is facing away from the corset. See diagram.6.3 Match up the non-decorative edge of the lace (intenor layer) with
the non-decorative edge of the lace on the exterior layer of the corset.
‘The two ends of the lace should overlap on the interior layer of the
corset. Pin in place.
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6.4 Topstitch the lace (two rows) ta the corset from the centre front to
the centre back. Make sure that you catch the exterior layer lace and
the interior lace when you sew. See dagram.LEFT CORSET HALF 7.3 Using an avi, open up the material by pushing the aw through the
7.4 Now that you have completed the right corset half you will need to Middle of the marked holes. Open the hole wide enough for the prongs:
complete the left. To do this, lay the exterior layer on top of the interior 0 push through comfortably. Note that you are stretching the material
‘open not tearing it, 60 take your time and ease it wider as you go. The
layer (ight sides facing). Join the centre front seam, Press open seam
ee x is hhole will close quickly so insert the prong immediately. See diagrams.
allowance and trim seam allowance to corer points.
‘7.4 Fold the interior layer back to the exterior layer so that the corset is
right side out. Topstitch the busk in place by stitching close alongside it
‘See diagram.
7.2 On the exterior layer of the corset, mark outthe holes to accornmo-
date your busk prongs, See diagram.
Prongs prtudng out through holes
‘made by a. Provude Fom the rat
‘ide ofte exteror layer ofthe17.5 Turn the corset wrong side out once again and match the centre EYELET INSERTION
back seams Pin and machine stitch the centre back Press open To finish your corset, mark out and insert your eyelets into the
‘seams and trim seam allowance to comer points. See diagram centre back of each corset h
17.6 Turn the carset right side aut once more and follow See 3.7 - 6.4
to finish the LEFT CORSET HALF. You should now have two finished
corset halves, both let and right. See diagram.