Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
REV 6.02
24/11/2006
TEMA GROUP
1. FOREWORD
Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook has been prepared for the purpose of defining the
tests, which must be carried out on the fabric that we will use in our products, the standards and
the tolerances that pertain to such tests and the rules as to how these tests will be carried out.
Fabric Quality Handbook will also be referred to as a document wherein our standards are
specified for our fabric suppliers. The standards of the products that our suppliers will produce for
us must be within the tolerance limits appearing in this handbook.
Fabric Quality Handbook is valid with Oekotex 100 standards. At common tests, the
standards prevailing in Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook will be taken. For tests that are not
included in the Handbook, Oekotex 100 test standards and values will prevail. We expect supplied
products and fabrics will meet Oekotex 100 standards.
In chapter one, the method of use of the Fabric Quality Handbook is explained.
Chapter two contains the instructions where the purpose of doing fastness tests depicted in
Table 3 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the method of
doing tests are explained in detail.
Chapter three contains the instructions where the purpose of doing physical tests depicted in
Tables a and 5 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the
method of doing tests are explained in detail.
This chapter serves more to the standardization of the tests that we do at Tema Group
Laboratories.
The annexes of the Fabric Quality Handbook incorporate various tables and forms. These
tables and forms are used for the following purposes.
Table 1 shows the tests that must be done on woven fabric on product basis.
Table 2 depicts the tests that must be done on knitted fabric on the basis of fabric
composition.
Table 3 contains the fastness tests that must be done considering fabric compositions and
the information as tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests.
Table 4 contains the physical tests that must be done on woven fabric and the information as
tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric
compositions.
Table 5 contains the physical tests that must be done on knitted fabric and the information as
tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric
compositions.
Chapter 7 deals with ecological test standards. It contains requested ecological test values
and the ecological standards that are used for defining these values. However, since there is not a
generally accepted international test method in defining some values, these tests will be done using
the in-house methods of the relevant laboratories.
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3/51
1. FOREWORD .................................................................................. 2
2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK .................................................................. 3
3. FASTNESS TESTS .......................................................................... 5
3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08 ................................................................................................................... 6
3.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14....................................................................................................... 7
3.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09.................................................................. 8
3.4. CROSS STAINING HT12 .....................................................................................................................10
4. PHYSICAL TESTS .......................................................................... 11
4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20 ..................................................12
4.2. ELASTICITY FT07 .................................................................................................................................13
4.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03 ........................................................................................................................15
4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11.....................................................................................................17
4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18 ..................................................................................................................19
4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19...........................................................................................................................20
5. TABLES...................................................................................... 22
5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE ......................23
5.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE......................25
5.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)................................................26
5.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4) ...............................................27
5.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4) ...............................................28
5.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4) ...............................................29
5.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2) ........................30
5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2).........................31
5.9. TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4) ....................32
5.10. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)...................33
5.11. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (3/4) ...................34
5.12. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)...................35
5.13. TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE QUANTITIES ...36
6. ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS........................................................... 38
6.1. SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS .......................................39
7. ECOLOGICAL TESTS ....................................................................... 40
7.1. ECOLOGICAL TESTS .............................................................................................................................41
7.2. ECOLOGICAL TEST STANDARDS ...................................................................................................42
7.3. ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES ................................................................................................44
7.4. TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION ....49
7.5. CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES.........................................................................................................50
7.6. TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS ...............................51
4/51
3. FASTNESS TESTS
5/51
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 9
PRINT DURABILITY
HT-08
3.1.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour change, wear and stain made by other
colours that might occur after wash and use of the products, for which production printed fabric is
used or which are piece-printed.
3.1.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine
Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight
Colourmatic detergent
Softener
Tumble Drier
3.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
For this test finished sewn products are used
Weight of the finished product is increased to 2 kg by adding white polyester fabrics each
50g weigth. Wash temperature is set to 50C. 50 g of colourmatic detergent and 50 g of softener is
added to the compartments of the front loaded washing machine. The washing machine is run at
short wash-program.
The washing cycle is repeated two more times. There is no need for drying between washing
cycles. Following the last washing cycle sample is hung to dry. It can also be dried by reversing it so
that printing direction faces inward.
3.1.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation process will include assessment of change of printing at folding and sews, greasing
of the base fabric, greasing of print colours and general appearance of print, using grey scale (ISO
105 A02-ISO 105 A03).
3.1.5. REPORTING
The findings about the print based on the above identified 4 criteria and the pass/fail ratings
appearing in the quality handbook will be individually noted.
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POST-WASH
APPEARANCE
FT- 14
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 10
3.2.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining post-wash colour change and staining of the
product, which is washed in domestic washing machines.
3.2.2. MATERIALS TO BE USED
Domestic washing machine
Tumble Drier
Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight
3.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
A- If the sample is a sewn product, it will be weighted and completed up to 2 kg with 100%
white Polyester fabrics, weights in 50g. The product is washed and dried according to the washing
instructions on its label. Before washing cycle is started, pieces will be cut out from the product in
order to make a later comparison if the product contains contrast colours.
B - If the sample is a fabric, a piece of 30x30 cm is taken on which contract colours appear
and four edges are over locked. Another piece is taken having the same contrast colours for control
purposes. The sample is weighted and completed to 2 kg with 100% polyester fabric. At TGKKEK and
depending on fabric type, it is washed and dried at a short program with no pre-wash cycle at the
temperature specified at FT01.
50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used for washing,
If the fabric weight is over 2 kg, test is done without uploading adding fabrics.
3.2.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation is done at a dark room under D65 daylight on grey scales Grey scale (ISO 105 A02ISO 105 A03 ) . Findings are compared with the values at TGKKEK. If a sewn product has been
tested, the sample is delivered to the unit concerned inch order to assess the other appearances on
the product as a result of colour change and staining tests, if required.
3.2.5. REPORTING
Findings obtained from the tested samples are put down in the test results report. The report
contains the data that relate to colour change and staining only. Other evaluations (sew appearance,
shrinkage and sagging) must be done by relevant units.
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COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT
HT-09
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 5
3.3.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to assess the change that will likely occur on fabric within it is
exposed to light after detergent washing.
3.3.2. MATERIALS USED
ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate
Polyethylene foil not containing BHT
Air cooled Xenon Arc Lamp (complying to ISO 105 B02)
Colour change grey scale ( ISO 105 A02)
Blue wool (Blue wool scales of number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5)
3.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will have the minimum size 45 mm x 10 mm.
Preparation of solution: 4g/lt ECE (B) + 1 g/lt Sodium Perborate will be dissolved in 1 lt water
at 50C (+ - 2C).
The sample is soaked into the prepared solution as it was explained in related sample soak
section in ISO 105 B07 and the sample is wrapped with special polyethylene not containing BHT in
single layer. The polyethylene layer at the back of the sample will overlap like a cover. This part will
be taped airtight.
Polyethylene
Sample
Fabric
8/51
The sample is inserted in a carton containing no optics and the protruding ends of
polyethylene are taped on the back of the box.
It is tested for 5 hours for woven fabrics and 3 hours for knitted fabrics at light fastness
tester as per ISO 105 B02.
Samples are removed from polyethylene. When removed the samples must be wet. If samples
get dry during test, the test should be repeated.
Samples are left for drying in a dark room.
3.3.4. EVALUATION
Dried samples are evaluated on grey scale ( ISO 105 A02) under D65 light in light cabin.
3.3.5. REPORTING
Test findings will be put down on the test results form.
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NAME OF
CODE
CROSS STAINING
HT-12
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 13
3.4.1 PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour staining of contrast colours within the
same product, after washing and keeping wet.
3.4.2 MATERIALS TO BE USED
Apparatus of CF to Washing; Gyrowash
Perspirometer, Acrylic Plates,
Stove,
Light Cabinet,
Magnetic Mixer,
Balance,
ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate,
Gray Scale of Staining (ISO 105 A03).
10/51
4. PHYSICAL TESTS
11/51
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 11
4.1.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of knitted fabrics which influenced by
various physical effects.
4.1.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Metal ruler
Pen, suitable for writing on fabrics
Mechanism for hanging fabrics
Marker pen
Scissors
4.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Test sample is taken at least 2.5 meters from the beginning of fabric rolls.
By using template, fabric sample is marked with a marker pen at the size of 50 x 50 cm.
Fabric is cut on the marked line with a tolerance of + 5 cm.
Test sample is hung equally folded onto a stretched rope in the longitudinal direction of knit.
Test sample is kept hung for 24 hours (in emergency it must be kept at least for 4 hours).
Test sample is smoothly laid on the table, after waiting time.
It is measured in length and width from line to line.
% of the fabric sagging is calculated with the below formula.
% Sagging = (Original measure Post-washing Measure) x 100 / Original measure
The value thus found will be put down on the test results form as % of sagging in width and
length.
4.1.4. EVALUATION
The findings will be compared with the target value by using the table depending whether the
tested fabric is knitted or woven.
4.1.5. REPORTING
Findings will be put down on test results form.
12/51
ELASTICITY
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 2
FT-07
4.2.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of woven fabric containing elastic
material towards the direction of the elastic material.
4.2.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Tensile Strength Tester (with the below components)
Load cell with 0-600 N measuring range.
Sample holding jaws, suitable for elastic fabric at the width 5 cm.
Software capable to display test period and speed.
Marking pen
Scissors
4.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Sample Preparation:
If the sample fabric Warp Elastic or Weft Elastic fabric, 3 samples are prepared in
elastic direction. If the fabric is elastic in both directions, totally 6 samples are prepared, 3 in
warp and 3 in weft.
If possible samples must be taken diagonally so as to avoid containing the same weft and/or
warp yarns.
Samples must be taken at least 10% of the fabric width inward.
Conditioning: The fabric to be tested must be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a
temperature of 20 2C and at a humidity of 65% 4.
Procedure: 3 samples are taken from each fabric for test (if both weft and warp of the fabric
are elastic, 6 samples will taken e.g. 3 in weft direction and 3 in ward direction). Samples must have
a size of 33 cm x 6 cm each. The long edge must be parallel to the elastic yarn.
Sample must be reduced to a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns either by hand or a
tweezers. During this operation care must be exercised to draw out equal number of yarns from
both sides.
Then jaws will be mounted and the program will be run. Jaw surface is 100 mm x 25 mm.
Sample is placed on jaws wit hour pre-stretching it. Sample will be stretched for 3 times from
0 to 30 N at a speed of 300 mm/min. At the 3rd stretching fabrics elongation under a load of 30N
will be calculated. Other two samples will be placed on jaws and tested in similar way.
4.2.4. EVALUATION
For fabrics having elastic material in a single direction, elongation after the 3rd stretching
must be higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%).
13/51
For fabrics having elastic material in both directions, elongation in one direction must be
higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%). If the elongation of
the fabric is lower than these levels, test is evaluated as Fail.
4.2.5. REPORTING
Test results, the arithmetic mea of elongations of 3 samples will be put down in the test
results form specifying test direction.
14/51
NAME OF
CODE
SPIRALITY TEST
FT-03
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 6
4.3.1. PURPOSE
Determination of deformation in the fabric that occurs after washing in particular.
4.3.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine.
Metal ruler.
Marking template and ruler.
4.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will be conditioned for 4 hours before the test. Test sample
will not be taken from either end of roll. Sample must be taken at 2.5 meters inward at least.
Fabric is folded in the middle with folded edges aligned. Anti-Shrinkage template is placed on
the fabric at a distance from the edge of the fabric of at least 10% of its width. Figures on the
template are marked. Weft and warp directions are identified. A line will be drawn at the outer
edge of the template using a permanent ink pen. Edges will be cut without any round corner to obtain
a square at size 50x50 cm.
3 edges of the fabric are over locked. The bottom edge is left open and then over locked. Lot
number, drying method and wash temperature are written on the right bottom corner of the fabric.
Sample is weighted. Its weight is increased to 2 kg by 50 g standard Polyester fabrics.
For washing temperature and drying process, dimensional change test values that are
appropriate for this fabric will be used. For washing 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener are used.
When washing cycle is complete, the sample is dried for 70 minutes (10 minutes cooling
included) for cellulose fabric (cotton, viscose and their blends) and for 45 minutes (10 minutes
cooling included) for synthetic fabric (polyester, nylon and their blends), by completing to 2 kg with
Polyester fabric in Tumbler drier. After dry at Tumbler drier, test sample is conditioned for at
least 4 hours and measured using the following formula.
15/51
4.3.4. EVALUATION
The value obtained by using the table depending whether the fabric is woven or knitted is
compared with target value.
4.3.5. REPORTING
The values obtained are put down in the test results report.
16/51
PERMANENT ELONGATION
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 3
FT-11
4.4.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to measure permanent elongations of elastic woven fabric under
constant loads.
Before this test, fabric must have undergone elasticity test because the elasticity value
found at that must be used.
Note: If 80% of elasticity of fabric is more than 35%, elongation value to be used at
permanent elongation test will be limited to 35%. A fabric which found with 45% elasticity will be
used with the value of 35 %elasticity for this test (%45*%80=%36 > %35).
Permanent elongation is the elongation in percentage of woven fabric containing elastic
material, which are held at a certain elongation for a certain time and then released.
4.4.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Static elongation tester
Scissors
Ruler
Timer
4.4.3. CONDUCT OF TEST
Important Note:
In order to do permanent elongation test elasticity test must have been done and elasticity
value is already known.
3 samples will be prepared for each fabric containing elastic material to be tested. If the
fabric to be tested contains elastic material both at warp and weft, 1 sample will be prepared on
both directions.
New samples must be prepared for this test. Samples prepared for elasticity test must not be
used.
Conditioning:
Fabrics will be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a temperature of 200 C 20 C and a
humidity of %65 %4.
Three samples will be taken from the fabric, which do not contain the same weft and warp
yarns at the size 55 cm x 6 cm with long edge parallel to the elastic yarn. Sample must be reduced
to a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns from both sides at equal quantity.
80% of the elasticity is calculated by the following formula:
80% elongation = E% x 0.80 x L / 100
L = Distance between marks at permanent elongation (50 cm).
The bottom jaw of static tester is switched to 0 and locked.
Sample is attached to the tester and both jaws are closed.
17/51
18/51
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 7
4.5.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining the post-wash deterioration at quality and
appearance of coated and adhesive products that are washed at domestic type washing machines.
4.5.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
Domestic type washing machine
Thumble drier (unless otherwise mentioned in washing instructions)
White cotton fabric of 110-130 g/m2 .
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight
19/51
BAGGING
REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 11
FT-19
4.6.1. PURPOSE
This standard pertains determination of the strength of woven fabric again bagging or
elongation because of wearing.
4.6.2. EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
- Special holders as in Figure 1
- Ruler with Millimeter scale
- Weights of 900 grams, 1800 grams, 2250 grams
- A hanger or a hanger board having wedges for keeping samples in vertical position (figure
attached).
4.6.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Amount of fabric elongation (elongation potential) is the amount, which is measured after
disposing the fabric sample to a tensile strength for a specified time according to the m2 weight of
fabric.
Three samples of 6 cm x 38 cm cut out at warp direction and three samples of 6 cm x 38 cm
cut out at weft direction are prepared for test purposes. Care must be exercised to take the test
samples from different parts to avoid using the same warp or weft yarn groups. The cut out fabrics
of 6 cm will be reduced to 5 cm by removing yarn at edges. Yarn removal must be done on both sides
of the fabric until at least one full length yarn is removed.
Test samples must be conditioned for 4 hours.
A distance of 25 cm from the edges is marked on the sample of 5 cm x 38 cm (figure 1).
Special holders are attached on both ends of the test sample. Then sample is hung vertically. The
bottom edge will be attached the weights that will be selected according to fabric weight as seen in
Chart 1.
CHART 1- The weights that will be selected according to fabric m2 weight
Weight applied(Gram)
m2 weight of fabric
Up to 130 grams
900
130-170 grams
1800
More than 170 grams
2250
After exposing to load for thirty minutes, the amount of elongation under load (sample is
under load) will be calculated by the following formula:
LY=Elongation under load
L= Initial Length (25 cm)
% Elongation under load = (LY - L)*100/L
20/51
The special holder will then be removed from the bottom edge and permanent elongation after
five minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours with reference to previously marked 25 cm length will be calculated
by the following formula:
LK= Permanent Elongation
% Permanent Elongation = (LK - L)*100/L
4.6.4. EVALUATION
The value found after 2 hours will be considered the basic finding. Values found after
exposing to load for 30 minutes, 5 minutes and 1 hour will be used as reference only.
4.6.5. REPORTING
The test finding for the fabric will be compared with the relevant tables and pass/fail
assessment will be made.
21/51
5. TABLES
22/51
PRODUCT TYPE
FT04
FT06
ISO 12945-1
ISO 13934-2
B
F
A
A
H
D
E
M
P
2
SKIRTS AND DRESSES
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
H
D
E
A
J
M
P
3
TROUSERS SHORTS
JOGGING SUITS
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
A
F
A
G
A
A
D
E
A
J
M
A
A
A
A
R
A
B
A
F
A
G
A
A
E
A
J
A
A
A
A
E
A
M
A
A
A
M
A
A
13
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY A
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY B
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY C
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY D
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
9
SWIMWEAR
A
A
A
A
10
TREKKING WEAR
A
A
A
A
11
LININGS
A
A
A
A
12
POCKET MATERIAL
(SEE BELOW EXPLANATION)
A
A
A
A
BONDED FABRICS
A
A
C
D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D
A
D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D
A
E
A
A
A
D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D
A
E
A
A
M
A
A
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
A
A
A
E
A
A
M
A
C
B
R
A
B
A
A
A
E
A
C
B
A
A
A
A
BOTH BOTH BOTH
Sides Sides Sides
A
A
A
A
A
OUTER
Side
C
R
A
B
R
A
B
R
A
B
R
A
B
R
A
Both
Sides
F
A
A
F
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
14
G
E
A
D
E
A
D
E
A
D
A
A
A
A
Fastness tests are not required for white and natural colour fabric qualities.
23/51
FT17
ISO 811
FT21
FT16
BS EN 22313
AATCC 118
TRIPLED WASH
FT15
ISO 13937-1
FT19
WATER PROOF
FT14
TEMA METHOD
12
WATER REPELLING
FT13
ISO 4920
TEMA METHOD
10
A
OIL RPELLING
(IMPROVING)
BAGGING
(IMPROVING)
WRINKLE RECOVERY
ANGLE
TEAR STRENGTH
POST-WASH
APPEARANCE
DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO DRY
CLEANING
FT10
AATCC 93
ABRASSION
PERMANENT
ELONGATION
FT09
ISO 12947-2
SEAM SLIPPAGE
ELASTICITY
TENSILE STRENGTH
PILLING
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO WASHING
CROSS STAINING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SEA WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT PERSPIRATION
FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
RUBBING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
PERSPIRATION
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WATER
FT08
ISO 13936-1
FT02
ISO 3801
FT01
ISO 3759
ISO 6330
HT12
TEMA METHOD
13
HT11
HT07
HT06
HT10
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT
HT05
PRINT DURABILITY
HT04
1
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING
HT03
8
ISO 105 E04
7
HT02
6
ISO 105 E01
5
HT01
NAMES OF TESTS
A
P
A
P
REMARKS
Each lot is tested,
Each colour is tested,
Only printed (in meter or in part) products and fabrics are tested,
Fabrics to be dry cleaned as per label instructions will be tested,
Tested if product has a contrast colour,
Blended and brushed fabrics are tested. Velvets are not tested,
Tested if it contains elastic yarn,
Only velvets are tested. Testing a single colour will be sufficient,
Tested if Easy care or Non-iron treatment is made,
It is required for Bonded and Coated fabrics,
It is required for the fabrics contain Regenerated Fibres,
It is required when Oil repelling is applied.
It is required for garments containing contrast colours
24/51
WEIGHT
PILLING
BURSTING STRENGTH
PILE LOSS
DRY CLEANING
SHRINKAGE
POST-WASH
APPEARANCE
FABRIC SAGGING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
PERSPIRATION
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
RUBBING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT AND
PERSPIRATIONS
PRINT DURABILITY
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SAE WATER
CROSS STAINING
FT03
FT04
FT05
FT10
FT12
FT14
FT20
HT01
HT02
HT03
HT04
HT05
HT06
HT07
HT08
HT09
HT10
HT11
HT12
FABRIC TYPES
ISO 3801
ISO 6330
ISO 12945-1
ISO 13938-2
AATCC 93
TEMA METHOD 8
TEMA METHOD 10
TEMA METHOD 11
TEMA METHOD 9
TEMA METHOD 5
TEMA METHOD 13
No
SPIRALIT
Y
DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO
WASHING
FT02
TESTS
FT01
ISO 6330
ISO 3759
10
11
12
SWIM-WEAR FABRICS
13
FUR FABRICS
14
BONDED FABRICS
15
16
X
X
Both
sides
X
Done 3
times
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Both
sides
X
Both
sides
X
Both
sides
X
Both
sides
X
Done 1
time
X
X
Colour fastness to dry cleaning and dimensional stability to dry cleaning tests are required for all fabrics, which has the label of dry
cleaning available. It is required for garments containing contrast colours.
DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)
25/51
TEST PERF
CODE
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING
FABRIC BLENDS
COLOUR
FASTNESS TO
WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR
COLOUR
FASTNESS TO TO RUBBING (DRY FASTNESS TO
ONLY)
LIGHT
PERSPIRATION
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT AND
PERSPIRATION
(SEE BELOW)
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT
CROSS STAINING
HT01
HT02
HT03
HT04
HT06
HT07
HT09
HT12
TEMA METHOD 5
TEMA METHOD 13
TRH01
100% COTTON
500 C B2S
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH02
400 C A2S
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH03
400 C A2S
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH04
400 C A2S
S3/4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
Not Required
C4
S4/5
S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line at 40 C disregarding blend of cotton polyester and
cotton nylon fabrics.
Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric order sheet relevant unit must
indicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be under 4/5 level.
For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.
Colour fastness to rubbing test must be done outer (front) side of coated and printed woven fabrics, apart from these test must be
done inner (back) side of fabrics (regarding to usage of fabric).
Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.
26/51
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SEA WATER
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING
PRINT DURABILITY
POST-WASH
APPEARANCE
HT10
HT11
HT05
HT08
FT14
TEMA METHOD 9
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH02
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH03
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH04
N/A
N/A
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TEST
PERF
CODE
TRH01
FABRIC BLEND
TEMA METHOD 10
S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and
cotton nylon blend fabrics.
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.
27/51
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
LIGHT AND PERSPIRATION
TO WET ALKALI
CROSS STAINING
TO LIGHT
(DRY ONLY)
(SEE BELOW)
LIGHT
HT01
HT02
HT03
HT04
HT06
HT07
HT09
HT12
TEMA METHOD 5
TEMA METHOD 13
TRH05
400 C A2S
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH06
PIGMENT PRINTS
500 C B2S
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH07
PIGMENT DYES
500 C C2S
S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S4
(POST-WASH)
C4
(POST-WASH)
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH08
INDIGO DENIM
500 C B2S
S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)
S 3/4
(POST-WASH)
C4
(POST-WASH)
N/A
N/A
S4/5
S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected as the fabric
contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and cotton nylon blend fabrics.
Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric order sheet relevant unit must
indicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be under 4/5 level.
For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1 level below.
For all weaving fabrics, colour fastness to rubbing test must be done reverse side of fabric.
Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.
28/51
FABRIC BLEND
PRINT DURABILITY
POST-WASH APPEARANCE
HT10
HT11
HT05
HT08
FT14
TEMA METHOD 9
TEMA METHOD 10
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH06
PIGMENT PRINTS
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH07
PIGMENT DYES
50 mg/lt
C4
S 4, C 4
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH08
INDIGO DENIM
N/A
N/A
C4
C4
S 4, C 4
TRH05
S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and
cotton nylon blend fabrics.
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.
29/51
FABRIC TYPE
DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO
WASHING
TENSILE STRENGTH
TEAR STRENGTH
SEAM SLIPPAGE
ABRASION
PILLING
WRINKLE RECOVERY
ANGLE
FT01
FT06
FT15
FT08
FT09
FT04
FT16
ISO 6330
ISO 3759
ISO 13934-1
ISO 13937-1
ISO 13936-1
ISO 12947-2
ISO 12945-1
EN 22313
600 C 2A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%
12 Kg
700 g
6 mm 8 Kg
10.000 RPM
15 Kg
900 g
6 mm 10 Kg
15.000 RPM
18.000 RPM
4
110
20 Kg
1000 g
6 mm 12 Kg
20.000 RPM
12 Kg
700 g
6 mm 8 Kg
10.000 RPM
15 Kg
900 g
6 mm 10 Kg
15.000 RPM
18.000 RPM
4
110
20 Kg
1000 g
6 mm 12 Kg
20.000 RPM
12 Kg
700 g
6 mm 8 Kg
10.000 RPM
15 Kg
900 g
6 mm 10 Kg
15.000 RPM
18.000 RPM
4
110
20 Kg
1000 g
6 mm 12 Kg
20.000 RPM
12 Kg
700 g
6 mm 8 Kg
10.000 RPM
15 Kg
900 g
6 mm 10 Kg
15.000 RPM
18.000 RPM
4
110
20 Kg
1000 g
6 mm 12 Kg
20.000 RPM
12 Kg
700 g
6 mm 8 Kg
10.000 RPM
15 Kg
900 g
6 mm 10 Kg
15.000 RPM
14.500 RPM
4
110
20 Kg
1000 g
6 mm 12 Kg
20.000 RPM
100% COTTON
161-250 g/ m2
Over 251 g/ m2
Width elastic
TDFT02
TDFT03
Length elastic
Width-Length elastic
Below 160 g/ m2
2
161-250 g/ m
Over 251 g/ m
Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT04
161-250 g/ m
Over 251 g/ m
Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT05
ALL BLENDS
CONTAINING WOOL
161-250 g/ m2
2
Over 251 g/ m
500 C 4A TD
at elastic yarn
direction
MAX +3%, -5%
at non-elastic yarn
direction
MAX 3%
500 C 4A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
5%
400 C 5A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%
400 C 5A FD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%
Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
Seam slippage value will be taken 5.5 kg for 6 mm for linen and linen blended fabrics below 160 g/m2 in the shirts group.
Dimensional stability to washing values of linings must be examined considering the base fabric.
Abrasion test is not required for velour and corduroy fabrics.
In linen and linen blends fabrics, abrasion test level is required 10 000 RPM without considering the fabric weight.
Abrasion and Pilling tests are not required for the fabrics, which consist flament yarn in both warp and weft and do not applied any
surface brushing process.
30/51
FABRIC TYPE
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
PILE LOSS
PERMANENT
ELONGATION
DRY CLEANING
SHRINKAGE
WATER
REPELL
WATER
PERMEABILITY
TRIPLED
WASHING
BAGGING
(IMPROVING)
OIL
REPELLING
FT02
FT10
FT11
FT12
FT13
FT17
FT18
FT19
FT21
FT07
FT03
TEMA METHOD
2
TEMA
METHOD 6
ISO 3801
AATCC 93
TEMA METHOD 3
TEMA METHOD 8
ISO 4920
ISO 811
TEMA METHOD
TEMA METHOD 7
11
N/A
3%
5%
BY WEIGHT 16%
N/A
WIDTH, LENGTH
3%
1000 mm
NO
DETERIORATION
3 % MAX.
3%
5%
BY WEIGHT 16%
4%
WIDTH, LENGTH
3%
N/A
NO
DETERIORATION
N/A
N/A
3%
5%
BY WEIGHT 16%
N/A
WIDTH, LENGTH
3%
1000 mm
NO
DETERIORATION
3 % MAX.
N/A
3%
5%
BY WEIGHT 16%
N/A
WIDTH, LENGTH
3%
1000 mm
NO
DETERIORATION
3 % MAX.
N/A
3%
5%
BY WEIGHT 16%
N/A
WIDTH, LENGTH
3%
N/A
NO
DETERIORATION
3 % MAX.
AATCC 118
100% COTTON
161-250 g/ m2
2
Over 250 g/ m
TDFT02
TDFT03
Width elastic
%20
Length elastic
%20
Width-Length
elastic
%15
Below 160 g/ m2
161-250 g/ m2
2
Over 250 g/ m
Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT04
161-250 g/ m2
2
Over 250 g/ m
Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT05
ALL BLENDS
CONTAINING WOOL
161-250 g/ m2
2
Over 250 g/ m
Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
Water permeability must be 1500 mm for raincoats.
At pile loss test on velvet, colour change must also be evaluated.
Spirality test is not required for Basic and Panama weave.
Permanent Elongation and Elasticity tests are not required for Shirts, Skirts and Blouses.
31/51
FABRIC TYPE
ISO 6330
ISO 3759
ISO 12945-2
ISO 6330
ISO 3801
AATCC 93
ACCELATOR
ISO 13938-2
TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO
WASHING
PILLING
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
PILE LOSS
BURSTING STRENGTH
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)
FT01
FT04
FT03
FT02
FT10
FT20
7200 RPM
4
4%
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT01
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: %-6, LENGTH:%-6
TOFT02
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
4
4%
TOFT03
5 %
TOFT04
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT05
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT06
5A-400 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
7200 RPM
4
4%
5 %
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT07
40 C ELDE YIKAMA FD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.
32/51
FABRIC TYPE
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING
FT01
ISO 12945-2
ISO 6330
ISO 3801
AATCC 93
ACCELATOR
PILLING
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
PILE LOSS
FT03
FT02
FT10
4%
5%
N/A
TOFT08
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-7%
FT04
7200 RPM
4
TOFT09
5A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
TOFT10
TOFT11
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
TOFT12
4A-400 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
TOFT13
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
ISO 13938-2
BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm
strength not reduced)
TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)
FT20
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.
33/51
FABRIC TYPE
ISO 12945-2
ISO 6330
ISO 3801
AATCC 93
ACCELATOR
ISO 13938-2
TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO
WASHING
PILLING
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
PILE LOSS
FT04
7200 RPM
4
FT03
FT02
FT10
BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm strength
not reduced)
4%
5%
N/A
160 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
FT20
TOFT14
100% COTTON
3 YARN-2 YARN 2 YARN PIQUE
FT01
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%
TOFT15
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
170 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
170 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT17
5A-40 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
170 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT18
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT19
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT16
TOFT20
TOFT21
5A-40 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%
7200 RPM
3
4%
5%
N/A
145 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT22
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.
34/51
FABRIC TYPE
ISO 12945-2
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING
ISO 6330
ISO 3801
AATCC 93
ACCELATOR
PILLING
SPIRALITY
WEIGHT
PILE LOSS
ISO 13938-2
TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)
FT01
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5
FT04
FT03
FT02
FT10
BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm strength
not reduced)
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
N/A
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
FT20
TOFT23
TOFT24
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH :5
LENGTH :5
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
BY WEIGHT 4%
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
TOFT25
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5
7200 RPM
4
4%
5%
BY WEIGHT 4%
150 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
NOT APPLIED
%4
%5
NOT APPLIED
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
7200 RPM
4
%4
%5
NOT APPLIED
180 KPA
2 %
WIDTH LENGTH
7200 RPM
3
(40 C HAND WASH FD)
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5
TOFT26
FUR FABRICS
TOFT27
4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5
TOFT28
N/A
For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.
35/51
STANDARD
TEST NAME
REQUIRED
SAMPLE QUANTITIES
COLOUR FASTNESS
HT01
ISO 105 C06
HT02
ISO 105 E01
HT03
ISO 105 E04
CF TO WASHING
CF TO WATER
CF TO PERSPIRATION
HT04
HT05
HT06
HT07
HT08
CF TO RUBBING
CF TO DRY CLEANING
CF TO LIGHT
CF TO PERSPIRATION & LIGHT
PRINT DURABILITY
HT09
TEMA METHOD5
HT10
ISO 105 E03
HT11
ISO 105 E02
HT12
TEMA METHOD12
PHYSICAL (PERFORMANCE ) TESTS
FT01
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
FT15
FT16
FT17
FT18
FT19
FT20
TEMA METHOD11
FT21
AATCC 118
FT02
FT03
FT04
FT05
FT06
FT07
FT08
FT09
FT10
FT11
FT12
FT13
FT14
WEIGHT
SPIRALITY
PILLING
BURSTING STRENGTH
TENSILE STRENGTH
ELASTICITY
SEAM SLIPPAGE
ABRASION
PILE LOSS
PERMANENT ELONGATION
DRY CLEANING SHRINKAGE
WATER REPELLING
POST-WASH APPEARENCE
TEARING STRENGTH
WRINKLE RECOVERY ANGLE
WATER PROOF
TRIPLE WASH
BAGGING
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
( FABRIC SAGGING )
OIL REPELLING
60x60 cm
60x60 cm
60 cm in full width
50x50 cm
60x100 cm
60 cm in full width
100 cm in full width
70 cm in full width
30x20 cm
50x50 cm
100 cm in full width
60x60 cm
50 cm in full width
If the sample is one colour 30x30 cm,
If the sample is garment, 2 garments
40 cm in full width
50x50 cm
50 cm in full width
20x20 cm
----------------------------------60x60 cm
40x40 cm, 3 samples
36/51
TEST NAMES
TEST STANDARD
Formaldehit
Ph
AT-3
AT-4
Pesticides
AT-5
Clorinated Phenols
AT-6B
AT-6C
AT-6D
AT-6A
AT-7A
AT-7B
Carcinogenic Dyestuffs
AT-8
AT-9
AT-10
AT-11
PCBs PCTs
AT-12
AT-13A
Nickel
AT-13B
Nickel
AT-14
AT-15
AT-16
AT-17
AT-18
Crom (VI)
RIQUIRED SAMPLE
AMOUNT
Min 5 g
Min 10g
Each Colour - min 1g
Min 10g
Min 10 g
Min 5g
Each Colour - min 1g
Min 5g
Each Colour - min 5 g
Minimum two samples
Minimum two samples
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g
37/51
6. ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS
38/51
39/51
7. ECOLOGICAL TESTS
40/51
41/51
Parameters
1
2
Formaldehit
PH Value
Metals (Extractable)
lead Pb
(see note 2)
cadmium Cd
mercury Hg
(see note 1)
copper Cu
chrome VI
cobalt Co
nikcel Ni
Pesticides
Total pesticide concentrate
Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
2,3,5,6-Tetra- chlorophenol (TeCP),
Orthopenylephenol (OPP)
AZO-dyes
7a
Allergenic Dyes
7b
Carcinogenic Dyes
10
Phatalates in PVCs
12
< 20 ppm
4,0 - 7,5
antimone Sb
chrome Cr total
11
< 75 ppm
4,0 - 7,5
arcenik As
(see note 1)
PCBs
PCTs
TBT
DBT
MBT
13
Nickel test
14
15
16
< 20 ppm.
Listed AZO-dyes in Chapter 7.3.6.1 and 7.3.6.2
< 50 ppm
Listed Allergic dyes in Chapter 7.3.8.2
Must be nil
Listed Carcinogen dyes in Chapter 7.3.8.1
< 1 ppm
Listed Chlorine benzene and toluens in Chapter 7.3.7
Must be nil
0,10%
Listed Chemical Substances in Chapter 7.3.9.2
< 0.5 ppm
< 1 ppm
< 1 ppm
0.5 g/cm2/week
%0,01
Not applied
Only required for baby products
S4
Toxicity
17
Sb
60 ppm
As
25 ppm
Ba
1000 ppm
Cd
75 ppm
Cr
60 ppm
Pb
90 ppm
Hg
60 ppm
Se
500 ppm
42/51
43/51
Country
GB
GB
GB
GB
A
Rep. Of Ireland
Producer
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
ASOTA Ges.m.b.H., Linz
Wellman International Ltd.
J
D
Trevira Bioactive
Trevira Bioactive E2
Trevira CS Bioactive
X-Static Fibre
D
D
D
USA
Country
CH
CH
CH
B
USA
USA
S
CH
CH
CH
F
D
AU
USA
F
Reputex 20
SANITIZED T96-20
SANITIZED T96-22
SANITIZED T99-19
SANITIZED TPL 20-02
SARPU
THEA-FLAN (30A, 30E)
Troysan Polyphase P-100
ULTRA-FRESH NM 100
ULTRA-FRESH NM-V2
GB
CH
CH
CH
CH
D
J
NL
CAN
CAN
Producer
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Devan Chemicals NV, Ronse-Renaix
Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg
Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg
Appeartex AB, Gteborg
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Vikem-Kwizda, Marly le Roi
Bayer Chemicals AG, Leverkusen
Global Speciality Chemicals, Campbellfield
Microban Products Company, Huntersville
Breyner, Traitements bio-actives pour textiles,
Vienne
Arch UK Biocides Ltd, Castleford
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
DKSH GmbH, Hamburg
ITO EN, LTD, Sizuoka-ken
Troy Chemical Company BV, Maasluis
Thomson Research Associates, Toronto
Thomson Research Associates, Toronto
44/51
Name
CAS-No.
NO
Name
CAS- No
NO
Name
CAS- No.
2,4,5-T
93-76-5
19
DDE
3424-82-6, 72-55-9
37
Hexachlorcyclohexane
319-86-8
2,4-D
94-75-7
20
DDT
50-29-3, 789-02-6
38
Lindane
58-89-9
Azinophosmethyl
86-50-0
21
Diazinon
333-41-5
39
Malathion
121-75-5
Azinophosethyl
2642-71-9
22
Dichlorprop
120-36-2
40
MCPA
94-74-6
Aldrine
309-00-2
23
Dicrotophos
141-66-2
41
MCPB
94-81-5
Bromophos-ethyl
4824-78-6
24
Dieldrine
60-57-1
42
Mecoprop
93-65-2
Captafol
2425-06-1
25
Dimethoate
60-51-5
43
Metamidophos
10265-92-6
Carbaryl
63-25-2
26
Dinoseb ve tuzlar
88-85-7
44
Methoxychlor
72-43-5
Chlordane
57-74-9
27
Endosulfan, -
115-29-7
45
Mirex
2385-85-5
45/51
Chlordimeform
1970-95-9
28
Endosulfan, -
33213-65-9
46
Monocrotophos
6923-22-4
11
Chlorfenvinphos
470-90-6
29
Endrine
72-20-8
47
Parathion
56-38-2
12
Coumaphos
56-72-4
30
Esfenvalerate
66230-04-4
48
Parathion-methyl
298-00-0
13
Cyfluthrin
68359-37-5
31
Fenvalerate
51630-58-1
49
Phosdrin/Mevinphos
7786-34-7
14
Cyhalothrin
91465-08-06
32
Heptachlor
76-44-8
50
Propethamphos
31218-83-4
15
Cypermethrin
52315-07-8
33
Heptachloroepoxide
1024-57-3
51
Profenophos
41198-08-7
16
DEF
34
Hexachlorobenzene
118-74-1
52
Quinalphos
13593-03-8
17
Deltamethrin
52918-63-5
35
Hexachlorcyclohexane
319-84-6
53
Toxaphene
8001-35-2
18
DDD
53-19-0, 72-54-8
36
Hexachlorcyclohexane
319-85-7
54
Trifluralin
1582-09-8
Name
CAS-No.
4-Aminobiphenyl
92-67-1
Benzidine
92-87-5
2
3
4
4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
2-Naphthylamine
91-59-8
Name
CAS-No.
99-55-8
11
4,4-Methylene-bis(2-chloroaniline)
101-14-4
p-Chloroaniline
106-47-8
12
4,4'-Oxydianiline
101-80-4
2,4-Diaminoanisole
615-05-4
13
4,4'-Thiodianiline
139-65-1
4,4'-Diaminobiphenylmethane 101-77-9
14
o-Toluidine
95-53-4
2,4-Toluylendiamine
95-80-7
NO
Name
CAS-No.
o-Aminoazotoluene
97-56-3
2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene
3
4
5
6
3.3'-Dichlorobenzidine
91-94-1
15
3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine
119-90-4
16
3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine
119-93-7
17
o-Anisidine
3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'diaminobiphenylmethane
18
2,4-Xylidine
95-68-1
838-88-0
19
2,6-Xylidine
87-62-7
p-Cresidine
120-71-8
20
4-Aminoazobenzene
60-09-3
10
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7
90-04-0
46/51
Use: Chlorine Benzenes are used in dyeing polyester or wool-polyester blends. Also they can
be used as solvents.
NO
Name
NO
Name
Dichlorobenzenes
Chlorotoluenes
Trichlorobenzenes
Dichlorotoluenes
Tetrachlorobenzenes
Trichlorotoluenes
Pentachlorobenzenes
Tetrachlorotoluenes
Hexachlorobenzene
10
Pentachlorotoluene
CAS-No.
C.I. 16 150
3761-53-3
C.I. 42 500
25620-78-4
C.I. 42 510
632-99-5
C.I. 30 235
1937-37-7
C.I. 22 610
2602-46-2
C.I. 22 120
573-58-0
C.I. 64 500
2475-45-8
C.I. 60 700
82-28-0
C.I. 11 855
2832-40-8
C.I. Structure no
CAS-No
NO
C.I. Structure no
C.I. 64 500
2475-45-8
12
C.I. 11 132
C.I. 61 505
2475-46-9
13
C.I. 11 132
C.I. 62 500
3179-90-6
14
C.I. 11 110
2872-52-8
C.I. 63 305
15
C.I. 62 015
2872-48-2
12222-75-2
16
C.I. 11 210
3179-89-3
12222-97-8
17
C.I. 10 345
119-15-3
12223-01-7
18
C.I. 11 855
2832-40-8
61951-51-7
19
C.I. 10 375
6373-73-5
23355-64-8
20
21
10
C.I. 11 080
2581-69-3
11
C.I. 11 005
730-40-5
7.3.10.
CAS-No.
POLYVINYLCHLORIDE (PVC)
47/51
or might be poisonous. For example phthalate, cadmium, lead. When PVC is heated and burned, there
is a risk of emitting hazardous substances to the environment.
Use: It is used in textile sector for producing PVC soft plastic accessories (labels, zippers) or
for coating fabrics. It is also used to produce imitation leather products. Some prints are made of
PVC.
7.3.10.2. RESTRICTED PHTHALATES (AT10)
Description: Phthalates can penetrate in body when contacted with plastics through saliva or
perspiration. Even a small amount of phthalate on clothe can be detached from the product after
washing and thus make environment pollution. Phthalates are the substances that can give harm to
the hormonal systems of humans and animals who are suspected of being carcinogen.
NO
Name
Di-iso-nonylphtalate
Di-n-octylphthalate
3 Di(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate
CAS-No.
28553-12-0 DINP
117-84-0
DNOP
117-81-7
DEHP
Diisodecylphthalate
Butylbenzylphthalate
26761-40-0 DIDP
85-68-7
BBP
Dibutuylphthalate
84-74-2
DBP
48/51
GROUP 1
GROUP 2
GROUP 3
GROUP 4
GROUP 5
GROUP 6
GROUP 7
GROUP 8
ARTIFICIAL LEATHER
GROUP 9
LEATHER
GROUP 10
GROUP 11
Chromium VI
T18
Cadmium
T14
Phthalates
T10
PVC Determination
T15
PCBs, PCTs
T11
A
Chlorinated phenols (PCP, TeCP, OPP)
T05
Pesticides
T04
Formaldehyde
A
T01
A
T06
T02
TESTS
Ph Values
Note 4
X
Note 4
Note 4
Note 4
Note 4
Note 4
Note 4
X
X
X
X
X
Note 4
X
Note 4
49/51
50/51
Material
Metal
Button, Pin,
Metal Snap,
Buckle i.e.
Plastic Label
Leather
Metal trimmings
Plastic, Polyester,
Nylon, Solid
materials
Plastic
Button,
Stopper,
Vislon
Zipper, Nylon
Zip i.e.
pH Value
Formaldehyde
Phthalate
***
Allergenic Dyes
Saliva
**
**
PCP- TECP-OPP-NP
Toxicity
Nickel
51/51