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Rachiu din gru se face foarte simplu - se face sold,adic gru ncolit 0,5 kg n timp de 5-7 zile, se macin.

oprete 3 kg de fin de gru n 12 l de ap fierbinte de 65 grade C, se mestic cu mixer, se primete o mas
cristalizat ...i se toarn soldul, masa cristalizat se preface ca o nvlete bidonul de 40 l cu ceva
clduros pe 10-12 ore...s se ine 65 grade...peurm se rcete pn la 22-28 grade i se toarn 100 gm
drojdie...fermentarea se petrece n 3-4 zile la 25-30 fiert se pune numai faza lichid
cte 6 l...n cazan de distilare se pune disk de aliuminiu (care se pune la fiert laptele s nu se ard pe fundul
castrulei sau s nu dee laptele n foc...)pentru ca se nu se prind-ard pe fundul ambalicului. Din reeta
respectiv am scos 2 l de rachiu de 52 % trime... La ambalic i instalat 2 filtre (...) din inox...
rcitorul 45 l ap rece cu iav de cupru diametru 8mm, lunjimea de 1m...Dac ceva nu-i clar ntrebai...
Scuzare, poate ceva nu am scris pe neles.
Object 1

reteta pentru tuica din GRAU

la un butoi de 60 l apa se pune o galeata emailarata pana la dunga de marcare de grau , 8 kg de zhar
si dac vrei sa fiarba mai repede o nuca de drojdie,fermenteaza ca vinul , cand a stat din fiert rezulta un
vin alb asemanator cu cel din struguri ,poti sa il si bei , prima mana e un pic mai acru ,se trage vinul si il
pui la tuica in cazan sau daca ai cazanul prea mare il pui intr-o damigeana si mai afci o mana sau doua
de vin .pentru mana a 2 si a3 ia se foloseste acelasi grau de la prima mana mai pui numai zahar , apa
si drojdie iar vinu care rezulta la mana a 2 si a3 e mai dulceag si mai bun ca cel de mana i
Ok vinu il pui la cazanul de tuica si produci distilarea iti rezulta o tuica de 45 50 grade si aproape de o
culoare albastra Eu am facut initial foloseam ca vin de am saturat si prieteni si tot ca se urca direct la
cap. apoi am facut tuica din vinul respectiv La un cazanel de 15 l imi iesea cam 2,5-3 l tuica depinde cat
vrei sa o lasi de tare .incercati si nu veti regreta
Malaiul sau mamaliga nu fermenteaza, doar unor prezenta unor fermenti. La o cantitate de 10 kg malai,
e nevoie de minim 1 kg porumb boabe, puse in apa la incoltit. Dupa ce incep sa incolteasca, cam dupa
10 zile, se usca si se macina. In acest porumb sint fermentii. Din cei 10 kg de malai se face o mamaliga
foarte moale. In final amestecul trebuie sa fie curgator, moale. Dupa ce se raceste se pune porumbul
incoltit si macinat si ceva drojjdie. Se poate adauga si faina de griu, la mamaliga, cam 1 kg. Amidonul,
in prezenta fermentilor se transforma in glucoza, care fermenteaza si se transforma in alcool. Dupa
circa 2 saptamini, e indicat ca sa se separe lichidul de malai prin filtrare. La distilat se pune numai
lichidul. Rezulta cam 1 l de rachie la 3 kg de malai. Foarte asemanator cu whisky.

How to Make Vodka

Six Parts:Deciding on IngredientsMaking Different MashesFermenting the MashChoosing Your
StillDistilling the WashApplying the Finishing Touches
Vodka is a neutral spirit that is without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.


These properties are developed during the distillation process or by treating

crudely distilled spirits with activated carbon or other materials. Finely distilled

vodka may also be further purified and refined by treatment with activated carbon

and other materials. Vodka is usually not aged and can be made from grains,

potatoes, sugars, fruits, and just about anything else that can be fermented to

produce alcohol. This makes vodka an economical spirit that can be made easily in

a short amount of time from readily available materials.

Part 1 of 6: Deciding on Ingredients

Choose the ingredients you want to ferment into vodka. Vodka is commonly made
from wheat, rye, barley, corn, or potatoes.[2] Sugar and molasses can also be used alone
or added to other ingredients. One distiller even makes an innovative vodka from Pinot
Noir red wine.[3] Whatever you choose, it must have sugars or starches so that alcohol is
ultimately produced. Yeast eats sugars or starches and spits out alcohol and carbon

When making vodka from grains and potatoes, a mash must be made that contains active
enzymes that break down the starches from the grains or potatoes and makes fermentable
Fruit juice already contains sugars so starch-degrading enzymes are not needed. As with
fruit juice, vodka made from store-bought sugars need only be fermented, thus bypassing
the need for a mash.
When already fermented mediums such as wine are used, the medium can be distilled
right away into vodka.
2. Ad

Decide whether your mash ingredients are sufficient. If you decide to just use potatoes
to make vodka, for example, your potatoes are going to need a little help converting starch
into sugar. That's where enzymes come in. Consult this basic chart to figure out whether
you need additional enzymes in your mash in order to convert starches into sugar:
Ingredients to Consider when Making your Mash
Requires Enzymes?
Additional Notes
Grains and potatoes are sources of starch, not sugar.
Grains and
Enzymes are needed to break down the starch into
Enzymes activate in malted grains when the grain is
No. Malted whole grains
Malted Whole
cracked open and exposed to warm water for a
are rich in natural
Grains (e.g. malted
sustained period. Milled, malted grains can be used
enzymes that break down
barley, malted
alone, as they contain starch, or added to a starchy,
starches into fermentable
enzyme-poor mash. Choose malted grains that are
high in enzymes, such as malted wheat.
No. Because the sugar is
Sugar may be used solely to make vodka or added to
Refined Sugar and already there, the yeast
starchy mashes to add additional fermentable
doesn't need additional

Depending on your mash ingredients, decide whether you need to use additional
enzymes. Food-grade amylase enzyme powder can be purchased from a homebrew shop
and added to the mash to convert the starch into fermentable sugars, if you're using
something like potatoes, for example. Use the recommended amount for the amount of
starch to be broken down. There is no need to use malted, enzyme-rich grains such as
malted barley or wheat when using enzyme powder.
For enzymes to be able to break down starches, even the starches of malted, enzyme-rich
grain, the starches must first be gelatinized. Flaked (rolled) grains are often already
gelatinized. Ungelatinized ingredients such as potatoes and unrolled or malted grains are
heated in water to the gelatinization temperature of the particular starch that is used.
Potatoes usually gelatinize at about 150 F (66 C), and barley and wheat gelatinize at
about the same temperature. Theoretically a potato mash should only need to be heated to
150 F (66 C). If a low temperature is used with potatoes, the potatoes should be finely
shredded before adding them to the water.
Starch-degrading enzymes only work at specific temperatures and are destroyed at high
temperatures. A temperature of 150 F (66 C) is common, but temperatures above 158 F
(70 C) will result in the destruction of the enzymes. The absolute maximum temperature is
165 F (74 C); while enzymes will work for a period of time at this temperature and it can
be used, much of the enzymes will be destroyed.
Part 2 of 6: Making Different Mashes

Try a wheat mash. In a 10 gallon (38 l) metal pot with lid, heat 6 gallons (23 l) of water to
about 165 F (74 C). Add two gallons of dry, flaked wheat and stir. Check the temperature
and ensure that it is between 150 F (66 C) and 155 F (68 C). Stir in one gallon of
crushed wheat malt. The temperature should be about 149 F (65). Cover and let rest for
90 minutes to two hours, stirring occasionally. The starches should convert into
fermentable sugars during this time, and the mixture should become much less viscous.
After 90 minutes to two hours, cool the mixture to 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C). Use an
immersion chiller for rapid cooling or just let it cool overnight, but dont let it get much
below 80F.


Try a potato mash. Clean 20 pounds of potatoes. Without peeling, boil them in a large
kettle until gelatinized, about one hour. Discard the water and thoroughly mash the
potatoes by hand or with a food processor. Return the mashed potatoes to the kettle and
add five to six gallons of tap water. Mix to blend and bring mixture to just over 150 F (66
C). Add two pounds of crushed, malted barley or wheat and stir well. Cover and stir
periodically over the course of two hours. Let cool overnight to 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C).
Letting it cool for a long period of time also gives the barley malt enzymes more time to
break down the potato starch.

Try a corn mash. Make a mash according to the wheat mash recipe, but substitute flaked,
pre-gelatinized corn (maize) for the flaked wheat. Alternatively, sprout your own corn over
the course of three days and make a mash from it without added malted grain. A root
about two inches long should sprout from each grain. The sprouted corn will contain
enzymes that were formed during the germination (sprouting) process.
Part 3 of 6: Fermenting the Mash

Clean all your utensils and prepare the area properly. Fermentation is conducted in
clean, sanitized vessels that are sometimes open but often sealed from the air to prevent
cross-contamination. Fermentation usually lasts for three to five days.
Fermentation is also possible in vessels that haven't been cleaned or sanitized, and the
distilled product will yield drinkable alcohol, but the fermentation may result in a high level
of unwanted flavor compounds and higher alcohols due to the action of unwanted yeast
stains and bacteria.
Oxidative cleaners such as B-Brite are available at homebrew shops, as are sanitizers
such as iodophor.[5]


Choose and set up your airlock. An airlock is a mechanism that will allow CO2 to escape
without letting O2 to get in. Five gallon batches of strained mash can be fermented in a 7.5
gallon (28 l) food-grade bucket or in 6 gallon (23 l) carboys. Lids can be affixed to buckets,
as can drilled rubber stoppers to carboys, but when using a lid or a stopper, never seal the
vessel completely, as pressure from carbon dioxide production will create explosive
pressure. Therefore, affix an airlock to lids and drilled rubber stoppers.
When fermentation is conducted in open vessels, put a cheesecloth over the vessel to
keep out bugs and other undesirable things.


Strain the mash or liquid into your fermentation vessel. If a mash was made, strain the
liquid with a fine mesh strainer from the mash into your cleaned and sanitized fermentation
vessel. Try to splash the liquid and pour it from a distance so that it is well aerated. Yeast
needs air (oxygen) initially to grow and start a quality fermentation. This is because yeast
makes cellular material in the form of lipids from oxygen. However, oxygen is not desired
after this initial growth stage, as yeast produces alcohol in the absence of oxygen
As an alternative, ferment the mash without straining. However, the fermented mash
should still be aerated in some manner, possibly with an aquarium air pump and an
aeration stone. The mash will also need to be strained before it is added to the still, and it
may be more convenient to ferment the smaller volume that results from a strained mash,
as the fermenting mash may overflow the vessel.
If a sugar solution is to be used, prepare a solution as described in Make Alcohol from
Common Table Sugar. Also aerate by pouring from a distance into the fermentation vessel.
If juice is to be fermented, aerate by pouring from a height through a sieve or strainer into

the fermentation vessel.


Add yeast to to the fermentable medium. Hydrate the appropriate amount of dried
distillers or other desired yeast and add it to the liquid. Stir with a clean, sanitized spoon to
evenly disperse the yeast. If using an airlock, the airlock will bubble during active
fermentation, and the bubbling will slow dramatically or cease altogether as the liquid
becomes completely fermented. Keep the fermenting liquid in a room that is about 80 85 F (27 - 29 C) to facilitate good, efficient fermentation. Alternately, use a heating belt
in cold areas.
Distillers yeast will ferment cleanly, produce a high amount of alcohol (ethanol), and
produce a relatively low amount of unwanted compounds such as alcohols other than
ethanol. The amount of yeast used will depend on the specific brand or type of yeast used.
Nutrients may be included with the yeast in the yeast packet. Yeast nutrients are needed
when fermenting a medium that is low in nutrients, such as sugar solutions, but they can
also improve fermentations when used with nutrient-rich mediums such as those made
from grains.


Collect the fermented liquid, also called "the wash." Siphon off the fermented,
alcoholic liquid (called the wash) into a cleaned and sanitized vessel or into the distillation
apparatus. Leave the yeast sediment behind in the fermentation vessel, as it can scorch
when heated in the still. The siphoned wash may also be further clarified by filtration or
other means before distillation.
Part 4 of 6: Choosing Your Still

Try distilling with a column still if you can. Column stills are more complex and
sophisticated than pot stills. They can be purchased or, depending on the still design, built
using readily available materials. However, column stills and pot stills work in a relatively
similar manner:

Cooling water is usually circulated through a sealed compartment in the distillation column,

causing the vaporized alcohol and other substances to condense in the column. This
means that such a still must be attached directly to a faucet or a mechanical pump to move
water from a supply into the still.
If not recirculating water from a single supply, thousands of gallons of water may need to
be used to make a small batch of vodka. If water is recirculated from a central reservoir
using a pump, about fifty gallons of water can be used, but the water will heat up and
become less effective.
See Sources and Citations below for detailed, high quality instructions for the construction
and use of column stills.

If you can find or build a column still, opt for a pot still. Simple pot stills are akin
to pressure cookers that are attached to piping or tubing. They can be constructed very
easily and cheaply. Unlike column stills that are essentially vertical columns, pot stills may
utilize bent or coiled tubing or piping that can be submersed in a vessel of cooling water.
Pumps and large volumes of cooling water are not required, but can be used.
See Sources and Citations below for detailed, high-quality instructions for the construction

of pot stills.
Part 5 of 6: Distilling the Wash

Get ready for distillation. Stills heat the fermented, relatively-low alcoholic wash to a
temperature that is greater than the boiling point of alcohol, yet less than the boiling point
of water. In this way, the alcohol vaporizes while the bulk of the water does not. The
vaporized alcohol (along with some vaporized water) travel up into the column, pipe or
tube of the still. External cooling in the form of cold water is applied to the column, pipe or
tubing, causing the vaporized alcohol to cool and condense back into liquid. This alcoholic
liquid is collected and becomes vodka.


Heat the wash in the still to begin the distillation process. Depending on the type of
still being used, gas burners, wood fires, or electric hot plates are all options. A
temperature of about 173 F (78.3 C) at sea level is desirable, but the

temperature must be kept below the boiling point of water, 212 F (100 C) at sea level. As
the wash becomes heated, alcohol and other substances vaporize and condense in the
water-cooled area of the still.


Throw out the heads. The first distilled liquid (called the heads) that is recovered from
the still will be rich in harmful methanol and other volatile chemicals that you don't want to
drink. For 5 gallons (19 l) of wash, discard at least the first 2 ounces (30 ml) of distillate.[6]


Collect the body. After you discard the heads, the collected distillate will contain the
desired alcohol (ethanol), along with some water and other compounds. This is called the
body. During this time, if using a column still with flowing cold water, the water flow can
be adjusted to control the distillate output and purity. Try to shoot for two or three
teaspoons of distillate per minute. Increased distillate output results in decreased purity.


Throw out the tails. Towards the end of the distillation process, when the temperature
creeps up to 212 F (100 C) and beyond, the distillation process produces other nasty
chemicals. These are called the tails, which contain fusel alcohols.[7] The tails are
undesirable and should be discarded.

Check the alcohol content and purity of the distillate. Cool a sample of the distillate to
68 F (20 C) and use a hydrometer to measure the percentage of alcohol of the distillate.
The distillate may be too dilute to serve as acceptable vodka (weaker than 40 percent
alcohol), or may be more concentrated than desired (perhaps higher than 50 percent
alcohol). Vodka is usually diluted before bottling, so the distillate may have a very high
alcohol content. The distillate may also be too flavorful and aromatic and require additional
distillations or carbon filtering.


Redistill the distillate if necessary or desired. This increases the alcohol content and
further purifies the distillate. It is common to redistill the distillate three or more times to

achieve vodka that has a high purity.

Part 6 of 6: Applying the Finishing Touches

Treat with a carbon filter (activated carbon) if necessary. Pass the distillate through a
carbon filter, such as those available at homebrewing shops, to remove unwanted volatile
flavors and aromas. Carbon water filters can also be modified to purify the distillate.

Dilute the vodka to the desired strength. Add purified water to the distillate to attain the
desired alcohol percentage. Use a hydrometer to measure the alcohol percentage.


Bottle the vodka. Fill bottles using a gravity bottle filler setup and cork or cap the bottles.

Label the bottles with custom labels if desired. Some gravity fillers may consist of a 7.5
gallon (29 L) bottling bucket (with spigot), vinyl tubing, and a simple spring-loaded plastic
bottle filler. Multiple-spout wine bottle fillers can also be used.
Am 2 retete mai uzuale.
1.Prima este mai "eco".Pentru un butoi de 200L.De fapt ambele sunt pentru un butoi de 200L.
Se iau 25Kg grau si se pun la incoltit.Pe o suprafata neteda(masa,blat,orice suprafata plana) se
imprastie graul in strat de max 5 cm si se uda zilnic.Dimineata se uda,iar seara se rascoleste astfel
incat boabele de jos sa ajunga sus si invers.
La un moment dat va incepe sa incolteasca.Cand germenele va avea cca.5mm se pune la uscat.Dupa
uscare se va macina impreuna cu 50Kg de porumb.Atentie,trebuie sa fie uscat graul ca iasca.Se pot
macina impreuna graul si porumbul pentru comoditate.
Dupa macinare se pun in butoi si se completeaza cu apa pana la max.10 cm de marginea superioara.In
timpul fermentarii se dilata
si are nevoie de spatiu.Se mai pune un pachet de drojdie,dar atentie un pachet mare nu unul de 25 sau
Va incepe fermentarea,va face spume,iar in momentul cand se limpezeste se poate pune la cazan
pentru distilare.Eu mai verificam terminarea fermentarii cu o lovitura de picior in butoi.In momentul in
care nu mai scoate bule la o lovitura cu piciorul e aproape gata.Dupa 2 sau 3 zile se poate distila.
Atentie la un lucru important.Dupa terminarea fermentarii trebuie distilat cat mai repede,pentru ca orice
zi de intarzaiere duce la scaderea "productiei" de palinca prin evaporare,iar din nefericire alcoolul se
evapora primul.
Asta e prima reteta,e ora 16:40.Trebuie sa ies cam 1 ora,la intoarcere voi posta a doua reteta.
Este suficient raportul de 1/10 malt-porumb. Un lucru important care nu este amintit e faptul ca inainte
de fermentare, amestecul se incalzeste pana la 65 grade pt. 15-20min pt. a descompune amidonul in
zaharuri simple . Si foarte important, amestecul nu trebuie sa treaca de 70 grade.Daca depaseste
temperatura de 73 grade parca, amidonul se transforma in zaharuri greu fermentabile iar acestea nu
vor fi transformate in alcool. Legat de zoaia ce curge la urma, aceasta contine uleiuri de fuzil si de la ele
te doare capul a doua zi. Deci taria se amesteca cu apa distilata cat este inca calda pt a nu se tulbura si
nu cu zeama de la final.
La cereale materia prima este amidonul. Cel mai bogat in amidon este porumbul. Din malai se face o
mamaliga subtire. Se adauga malt uscat i8n proportie de o parte malt la 11 parti de malai uscat. Maltul
se produce din orz incoltit cu coltul de 10 - 15 mm. Se amesteca mamaliga cu maltul macinat si se tine
la cca. 35 grade pana se lichefiaza, iar lichidul este dulce. Amilaza din malt transforma amidonul in
glucoza. Se adauga drojdie de bere si se lasa la fermentat la temperatura moderata, sub 40 de grade,
pana inceteaza formarea de CO2. Distilarea este o arta. Nu se obtine tuica, ci un fel de votca.