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Garment manufacturing process from fabric to poduct

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by Karthika M Dev, Merchandiser at T export Industries Pvt. Ltd. on Nov 15, 2013
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This was one of my internship project which i done in SIYARAM 'S in Gujarat. This is all about the process wch
going in the factory from raw materials to the finished goods After a conformed order. ...

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Garment manufacturing process from fabric to poduct

Document Transcript

1. Karthika M Dev SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

2. MANUFACTURING WORKFLOW Consumption planning to order fabric Fabric order placement
Receipt of fabric Fabric inspection (Check physical appearance and properties) Marker Planning (For
bulk production) Sampling Spreading & Cutting Presewing operations (Fusing, embroidery, marking- if
required in style) Bundling Feeding in lines (As per production plan) Finishing Packing Warehousing
Packing and dispatch SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
3. GARMENT ENGINEERING It starts in design development stage because it directly affects the
costing of the garments . People involved: Designers, sample room manager, industrial engineering
department and production management should all report from cutting to finishing. Key areas for
analysis: Seam types Various seam types should be analyzed and considered to simplify/reduce the
work.

Stitch types- Explore various options in terms of seam types. For example replace lock stitches

by chain stitch in case of Multineedle seams.

Machine types- Optimum use of technology to maximize,

look in to machine type, bed shapes and automation thats possible.

Attachments Attachment help in

simplifying and reducing the work content and to increase line balancing efficiency.
Special work aids can be used to simplify/reduce the work content.

Special work aids-

Fabric consumption- Fabric being

70% of the garment cost is vitally important to monitor and if the engineering is done properly we can
certainly expect to save fabric or reduce consumptions.

Cutting- how should it be done- we do not

have Tailors now, we have operators instead and they should be working with clippers in their hands
Finishing- Finishing is the last link of the value chain which is essential for p erformance point of view.
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
4. CAD DEPARTMENT Receiving tech pack: Tech pack is received from Head office that contains all
the information regarding the style illustration, size, trims, colors, stitch and seam class, fit, sampling
details, and packing and finishing details. Make basic pattern: Basic pattern is made manually by pattern
master in one base size. Digitizing: This base size is then digitized on the Gerber digitizer board. Grading:
After digitizing, its transferred to the computer on Gerber pattern design studio. Patterns initially are
made in only one size. We need to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while
maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. Getting correct fit and drape of a garment but
also maintain the measurements as graded specs is essential. Using the CAD system, the pattern is resized
according to a predetermined table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can
then print out the pattern in each size. Incorporating shrinkage in pattern grading - - First fabric has to be
relaxed so that there is no tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while layering or cutting. This will
ensure that there is minimum shrinkage in garments. So unwashed garments are made with additional
shrinkage tolerance included so that they gain their original measurements after washing. Woven fabric
garments shrink about 2-3%. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or width wise
depending on type of fabric. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
5. Shrinkage adjusting Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the
patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied
with shrinkage adjustments. The picture on the left shows how a garment panel looks like after it has
been scanned and graded. Gerber plotter printing: The patterns are then printed on the Gerber plotter.
They are then pasted to thick aortic sheets and converted into full fledged patterns. Send patterns to
cutting department

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

Efficiency: Marker plans indicate efficiency of the

cutting process i.e. the efficiency of fabric consumption.

to cut the specified quantity in the predetermined size ratio.

Lay plan: determines the no. of lays required

Precision in checks in stripes SOFT (

NIFT, Pune )
6. FABRIC STORE This is the most important department of the unit, where in the quality and quantity
of fabric is inspected as soon as it is received in the store, along with storing and maintaining stock levels

and ensuring to stock up in proper clean way. When the fabric is in-house, it should be capable of being
supplied to the cutting department. Inspection is done prior the cutting room issue so as to remove the
defective fabrics.

WORKFLOW OF FABRIC STORE Receive P.O at head office D/O Document are

sent to Fabric received at gate (challan) dept for checking Documents verified Bales received in fabric
dept Bales counting Fabric unloaded Bales opened Swatches and cuts maintained Checking 4 point
system JC & GRN Made Fabric mounted on greasy perch Fabric sent for inspection Fabric stored Fabric
issued to cutting room as and when required. FCR prepared SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
7.

FABRIC VISUAL INSPECTION The 4 point system is generally used for fabric inspection. In this

system, points are assigned for every possible defect in the fabric as follows. Width wise point criteria
Upton 3 3-6 6-9 9 Length wise point criteria Upton 5 3-6 6-9 9 Area wise point criteria Penalty
points 1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points Penalty points 1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points Penalty points
1X1 cm float Upto 1X1 cm hole/stain Over 1X1 cm to 2X2 hole/stain Over 2X2 cm hole/stain 1 point 2
points 3 points 4 points Yarn variation/Beam motion/Barre effect Penalty points Minor Major 2 points 4
points 3 points and 4 points are pointed and are called cutable defects. 1 and 2 point are identified by
stickers and panels replaced cutting. The maximum points and flags allowed as follows:SOFT ( NIFT,
Pune )
8. FABRIC 100% cotton and its blends 100% linear and its blends Max. no. of allowed points Max. no.
of flags per linear mts. 40 40 5 4 Defect points/100m2 = Total pointsX3600/Fabric widthXFabric length.
If defect points/100m3 < 40 then accept the fabric.

If defect points/100m3 > 40 then reject the

fabric. Major woven defects : slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, wrong
warns. Major dyeing or printing defects: out of register, dye stops, machine stops, color out, color
smear, or shading. These defects are marked wth colored tape so that they can be easily located. Others
Penalty points Patta Count or composition variation Short end Selvedge loose Wrong drawing Reed
marks Temple marks Damaged selvedge Wrong weave Cutable defect Cutable defect Reject roll Reject
roll Reject roll Reject roll Reject roll Reject roll Reject roll Other points to remember: 1. No linear meter
shall be assigned more than 4 point or a flag. 2. All holes regardless of size small be assigned be assigned
4 point. 3. There should not be a major defect within 5 meters from beginning or the end of the roll or
part therein. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
9. 4. The shade of the fabric should match with the approved shade of fabric from H.O. 5. There should
not be shade variation from selvedge to selvedge, centre to selvedge and start and end 6. A repeating
defect or running should not extend for more than 3 yards (2.73 meters), otherwise the roll will be
considered second quality. 7. No piece will be acceptable as first quality if it has noticeable side-to-side,
side-to-centre or end-to-end shading within a roll or a piece.

FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE This

is used to inspect the fabric defects and measure the total meters of the fabric. Machinery Brands include
Kaigu, Aura, Ramsons checkmate.

FABRIC TESTS o Fabric Shrinkage is a very important factor for

any physical inspection. Mistakes in appropriate checking might prove disadvantageous for the pilot run
followed by production. An optimum conduction of the width and shrinkage properties has to be made.
The fusing of lining to some parts may also be done in the cloth store. If the shrink characteristics are
consistent, then the patterns may be designed to the correct oversize and sampling checks for consistent
shrinkage carried out. Color changes can also occur at the time of fusing as the temperatures might have
been controlled or were out of the prescribed limits. E .g Size of the fabric= 100 * 100 Or 50 * 50
According to the above picture, a fabric piece of the above mentioned specification is cut and marked
accordingly. Then a wash with a soft enzyme is given. The deviation is shrinkage if any is marked
between the points. Shrinkage of 1-1.5 cm is acceptable. If it is more than this then the merchandiser is
supposed to take the desired action. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
10. o Color Fastness or Crocking: In order to check color fastness, 2 fabric swatches are taken. On 1 of
the swatch, a white seam is put on all the four sides of the fabric. Both of the them are washed and the
results are compared. If it is stained or slotted then its rejected. o C.S or Centre Selvedge test: This test
is used to check the color variation in the fabric. Full width of the fabric is taken (length can vary
according to requirement say 10). The Fabric is divided into 6 pieces and their grain line is marked.
These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 1. When we arrange
these fabric pieces in a series, we can see the shade variation in the same fabric. Noting of this variation
is very important at the time of cutting. Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as compared to
stripes and checks. o Others include dry clean and washability, abrasion resistance, pilling (especially for
mixed fibers), Bow and skew (using a ruler and set square for checks and stripes), Drape and crease
resistance (that includes permanent press capability), Strength (tensile, tear and bursting (for seams),
Flammability, Surface wetting and penetration.

FABRIC DEFECTS o Abrasion Mark: A place in the

fabric where the surface has been damaged due to friction or abnormally weakened by any operation
through which it has been passed. o Misprint: In printed fabrics, either missed, or partially missed, or
incorrectly positioned relative to each other. o Double Pick: Two yarns running simultaneously, mostly in

the weft yarn. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

11. o o o o o o o o o o o Oil Stain: Oil mark on the fabric. Hole: A breakage of yarns in the fabric
involving more than two yarns. Bow: When the weft/filling yarns lie in an arc across the width of the
fabric. Skew: Distortion in the construction of the fabric i.e. in the yarn that constitute the fabric. Crease:
A fabric defect across the fabric width usually caused by a sharp fold. Dye Stain: An area of
discoloration due to uneven absorption of colorant. Miss-pick: A pick/weft yarn not properly interlaced.
Slubs: An abruptly thickened place in a yarn. Screen Out: The appearance of a colored separation line in a
printed design. Calendar Line: Sharp pressmark on fabric due to the calendar during the processing.
Contamination: Colored fibers with the warp or weft fibers. Name of suppliers V.C.M synthetics,
Symbolic fabrics, Arvind mills, Ashok weaving, Vaibhav trading, Siyarams, J Hampstead. SOFT ( NIFT,
Pune )
12. TRIMS STORES This store is responsible for storing and neatly maintaining the trims received from
the suppliers, approved by H/O. Trims card to be readily available for each of the PO/style being
processed that is duly approved by the nominated quality assurance person.

WORKFLOW OF TRIMS

STORE Receive W/O Purchase dept issues D/O to supplier Challan Make trims card Checking Trims
receiving Issue for stitching according to production plan Different types of trims:- Buttons Hooks
Badges Zippers SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
13. - Collar pick bone Tags : brand name, collection name and fit type Labels : wash care, size and fit,
brand Fusible labels Leather patches Twill tape/ Cross grain tape ( cotton/polyester) Needles Threads :
sewing and embroidery Laces Packing materials: hangers, collar stand, brand label, packing box, polybag
SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT Net cutting is an essential part of garment engineering
that demands precession in cutting and low shape deformation afterwards. Accurate control of cloth
width produces economies in edge margins. Precise cutting not only avoids spoilt work at the making up
stage but is the key to modern sewing room practice. As soon as the work order is received, a fabric
enquiry is conducted in fabric store weather the fabric is available or not. The CAD department is
responsible for making the pattern markers available in various graded sizes for cutting purpose and
calculate the consumption per garment. SPREADING - Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls
of fabric onto long, wide tables and laying them in superimposed plies of specified length. - The number
of lays depends upon the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. - The maximum cutting
width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks caused by stencil marks. - Fabric
utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric area.
- The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
14.

Type of lay plan used: Since open width fabric is used, full garment lay is used that has both left

and right pieces.

Type of lay: Multiple Ply is used in which a number of fabric layers are stacked on

one top of other.

Forms of spreading: Fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern

running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. Fabric weight
height for cutting : Height Heavy Weight 4-5" Med Weight 3-4" Light Weight 2.5-3"
Pattern matching.

Relaxing the fabric to remove all the tensions.

correct position over each other.

Ideal lay

Laying parameters

Allignment of ply edges in

Lay order plan : Example 1 Size ratio = 1:2:2:1 39 31 48 37 43 40 40

62 48 58 42 40 62 48 58 44 20 31 24 29 Total 131 203 157 188 679 Average no of lays 39 31 31 40 20

20 42 20 20 44 20 0 Avg. no. of lays I II SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
15. 11 0 0 0 III Average no. of lays = 3 Average no. of pieces = Total meters of fabric Total no. of
pieces in each color = 190.50 = 1.45 mts. 131 Lay length = 1.45 mts X 3 = 4.35 CUTTING

Cutting

parameters: - Precision in cutting: To ensure the cutting of fabric - accurately according to the line
drown of the marker plan. Clean edge: By avoiding the fraying out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting
edge must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge. Consistency in cutting: All
the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife should be operated of the right angle of the
fabric lay.

Types of cutting equipments: - Scissors Round knife Straight knife Band knife cutting m/c

Die cutting ( collars and cuffs )

Methods for marking directly on the cloth: CHALK: This is the

traditional method in which thick lines are drawn on the cloth.

Preparation for sewing: 1) Position

marking : Egg- pocket positions, tucks, pocket positions etc SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
16. 2) Shade marking: each component is marked with a unique no. printed on a small ticket stuck on the
component. 3) Bundle making: according to size, color, quantity 4) Bungle tickets: to identify each bundle
to size, lot, style and color wise. 5) Fusing parameters: There are different types of fusings depending
upon the end use and type of fabric. Type Microdot Semi fusing Woven fusing Heat 150 degree 140
degree 175 degree Pressure 2.5 1.5 3 Time 13 sec 15 sec 18 sec EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Embroidery pattern is received that specifies the no. of stitches, colors, the pattern, size and placement.
Design is loaded in floppy disc and inserted in the machine memory.

Embroidery machines: Company

Silver sun Barudan No. of heads 9 4 No. of needles 9 9 No. of machines 3 1 Machine rings sizes: 6, 9, 7,
15, 19, 25, and 230X160 Embroidery defects: loose uncut threads, skipped stitches, pattern
misalignment. Embroidery threads: Silky and calypso threads. Type of stitches: satin, filling, patchwork
etc Types of motifs: Institutional logos (jindal, essar, cyberoam), kids wear motifs (cartoons), company
logos (oxerberg, J hampstead), jeans back pocket embroidery, shirt cuff and front panel embroidery are
done. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
17. A Strike-off : is a pre production sample of embroidery which is done in order to check the accuracy
of the pattern and the associated stitches in it. This is then sent to the H.O for feedback and approval. If
any changes, theH.O will return their feedback with necessary changes or comments. The type of
stitches depends upon the fabric. If the fabric is thin, then heavy stitches are avoided. MAJOR
PROBLEM FACED IN EMBROIDERY: The major problem faced during embroidery is the thread
breakages. The reason for this may be that either the thread is too tight or has less strength. Since the
designs are fed into these machines through computer, if even a single thread breakdown happens, then
all the machines stop at the same time. To help avoid it to some extent, a helper is put up against each
machine that keeps a check on the breakages and accuracy of the stitches. The bobbin case also plays an
integral part. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT The sampling for each season begins according to the product
cycle of style. This process is also called Product development (P.D). One should also know the tentative
size ratio in each style. This is because the costing of the product depends highly on the fabric
consumption. Kinds of samples prepared: 1) Photosample: only sketch/illustration of the garment is
present in the photosample sheet. 2) Fit sample: one sample in base size measurement is made and send
for approval at head office. 3) Size set: one garment sample in each size is prepared and sent for
approval. No need to add the trims to the garment. 4) PP sample: This is the pre-production sample that
is the exact replica like original sample. 5) Shipment sample: A random sample is picked from the
production lot and sent for approval. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Sewing Process SOFT ( NIFT,

Pune )
18. The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabrics, with the help of needle and threads. Most
of such industrial sewing is done by industrial sewing machines. The cut pieces of a garment are
generally tacked, or temporarily stitched at the initial stage if required. The complex parts of the machine
then pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and interlocks the thread. Industrial Sewing Industrial
sewing is quite a complex process involving many preparations and mathematical calculations for the
perfect seam quality. Good quality sewing also depends on the sound technical knowledge that goes into
pattern designing and making. Flat sheets of fabric having holes and slits into it can curve and fold in
three-dimensional shapes in very complex ways that require a high level of skill and experience to
manipulate into a smooth, wrinkle-free design. Aligning the patterns printed or woven into the fabric also
complicates the design process. Once a clothing designer, with the help of his technical knowledge,
makes the initial specifications and markers, the fabric is then cut using templates and sewn. These
undesirable variations in the cloth tension affect the product quality. Therefore, there arises the need of
strict control over the whole process. The work of sewing is focused on the handling of fabrics lying on
the working table and guide them towards the sewing machines needle along the seam line. The attention
is equally focused on the control of appropriate tensional force so as to maintain high quality seam. Pre
sewing functions Before the actual task of sewing begins, there are certain other tasks that have to be
taken care of which can be termed as fabric handling functions - Ply separation; Placing the fabric on
working table; Guiding the fabric towards sewing needle; and tension control of fabric during the sewing
process. When the fabric is placed on the working table, the tasks that are performed before the sewing
process include - recognizing the fabric's shape, edges that will be sewn, planning of the sewing process
and identification of the seam line. Fabric Edges to be sewn There are two basic types of stitches - one is
that are for joining two parts of cloth together and the second one is done for decorative purposes.
Sometimes, both types of stitching have to be done on some parts of cloth, for example, a denim pocket
has to be joined on three sides with the apparel as well as it may be given some decorative stitches too.
At what points and which type of stitching has to be done- all such information is decided by the
industrial engineering department and accordingly sewn. Planning of sewing process SOFT ( NIFT, Pune
)
19. Sequence of seams to be stitched is determined before the sewing starts. Which part will be joined
first, what stitches will follow one another, etc. are decided. However, some stitches have to be
necessarily done before or after another stitch. In the example above, the decorative stitches must be
done first followed by the joining stitches. Identification of seam lines Sewing process is performed on
seam lines situated inside the fabric edges, some millimeters inside the fabric's outer line. For the straight
lines, the seam line is found by transferring the outer lines inside the fabrics i.e. the seam line is parallel to
the outer edge and the distance between the two has to be determined as it is different for different parts
of the cloth. Seam allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching. Sewing

Fabrics The sewing process consists of mainly three functions - guiding fabric towards needle; sewing
of the fabric edge; and rotation around the needle. The fabric is guided along the sewing line with a
certain speed that is in harmony with the speed of sewing machine The orientation error is either
manually monitored or if monitored automatically then error is fed to the machine controller so that the
machine corrects the orientation of the fabrics. When one edge of seam line is sewed, the fabric is
rotated around the needle till the next edge of the seam line coincides with the sewing line. The sewing
process is thus repeated until all the edges of seam line planned for sewing, are sewed.

Significant

Aspects of Sewing There are certain aspects that have to be carefully considered while the sewing
process as they are very crucial for high quality sewing. Thread tension and consumption: Correct
balancing of the stitch and the tension given to the threads is very important for quality stitch formation.
Thread consumption, which is closely associated with correct stitch geometry and thread tension, is
usually measured by digital encoders. Presser- foot displacement and compressing force: Presser- foot is
the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the
feeder. The feeding system is one of the most important constituting systems of the sewing machine. If
this system is not efficient then it results into irregular seams and many other defects, especially when
running on high speed. To evaluate feeding efficiency, the force on the presser foot is measured with the
help of electric or other sensors. Needle penetration force measurement: The interaction of needle with
fabric is very crucial. Fault-free needle penetration depends chiefly on the properties of fabric and needle
choice. Needle penetration force is one of the variables whose measurement is important for the SOFT (
NIFT, Pune )
20. analysis of quality problems or "sewability testing" and also quality monitoring. It takes various
factors into consideration, such as the needle geometry (including the point angle and point length of the
needle), the friction between the needle and the fabric, the friction between the needle eye and the thread
along with fabrics' property, and the sewing conditions. ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL)
Quality measurre The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum per cent defective that for the
purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average. In inspection how
much percentage of defective pieces will be accepted, depends on acceptable quality level The AQL level
varies process to process, product to product and even buyer to buyer. Sample size Code letter: This
code is indicative a range of batch size. (Code 'G' means your lot size range is from 151 pieces to 280
pieces. Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total
offered pieces (Batch). Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up
to that much defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer. Re (Rejected): On the other hand
number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that much defective pieces or more than the
listed number, the shipment will be rejected (or asked to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and reoffer for final inspection) by buyer. Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces
for inspection. Select the range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you have to select number of
sample you are going to actually inspect. According the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000
pieces. Now assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you find 5 or
less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 6 or more than 6 defective pieces in
80 samples you will reject that shipment. Lot or Batch size Size Code Sample Size 28 A 9 15 B 2 3
Acceptable Quality level 2.5 4.0 6.5 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
21. 15 25 26 50 51-90 91-150 151-280 251-500 501-1200 1201-3200 C D E F G H J K 5 8 13 20 32
50 80 125 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 1 2 3 4 6 8
11 15 3201-10000 L 10001- 35000 M 200 315 10 14 11 15 14 21 15 22 21 21 22 22

LIST OF

POSSIBLE DEFECTS IN PRODUCTION Component and materials Materials/fabric Cleanliness Pressing

Seams and Stitching Possible Defects 1. Fabric holes 2. Slubs 3. Shading variation 4. Misprints, out-ofregister prints, undesired color spots 5. Cut, visible notch mark tears or visible surface repairs 6. Bow or
skew exceeding 1.5 percent 7. Double picks 8. Pilling 1. Soil, Spots, stains or Dust 2. Attached thread
clusters 1. Burn or scorch marks 2. Glaring shine marks 3. Press marks from camps 4. Absence of
pressing when specified 5. Products packaged moist after steam pressing 6. Improper pressing 7. Seams
not lined up when specified for center leg crease 8. Loops twisted after pressing 9. Uneven creases after
press 1. Twisted, roped, or puckered seams 2. Open or broken stitches 3. Raw edges where covered
edges are specified SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
22. Button holes Button/Button Sewing Waistband Belt Loops Front and back 4. Seams not back stitched
or bar tacked when specified 5. Irregular or uneven top stitching 6. Seam grin-through, seam slippage 7.
Pinching or any part of product caught in seam or stitches 8. Any exposed drill holes 9. Length of legs
off by more than 3/8 inch 10. Stitch count not conforming to specifications 11. Stitch or seam type not
conforming to specifications 12. Label is not correctly attached, position and layout 13. Sewn on design
attached at incorrect place and sewn not according to specs 14. Double needle stitch on crotch seam is
missing 15. Use of monofilament thread, other seams than where specified 1. Size is not within specs 2.

Ragged edges 3. Uncut button hole 4. Out of alignment or improper button spacing 5. Stitch depth too
narrow or wide 1. Button not securely attached 2. Butler-missing 3. Broken or damaged button 4. Out of
alignment or improper spacing 5. Button not matches to specs 6. Lack of support materials on fragile
fabric 7. Buttons that crack, chip, discolor, rust, bleed, melt or otherwise cause consumer dissatisfaction
when care label is followed 1. Uneven in width 2. Excessive fullness, puckering or twisting 3. Closure
misaligned 4. Belt loops are crooked 1. Not fully secure 2. Extend above waistband 3. Missing tacks 4.
Color shade not to specs 5. Thread shade not to specs 6. Raw edges showing 1. Uneven at bottom hem
2. Under facing showing 3. Pockets conspicuously uneven 4. Darts uneven in length 5. Darts poorly
shaped 6. Spot shirring not even right and left sides SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
23. Hems Pockets Zippers Gripper Fly area Labels 1. Twisted, roped, puckered, pleated, or excessively
visible from exterior 2. Uneven in width 3. Uneven length of product unless specified 1. Not uniform in
size and shape 2. Misaligned horizontally or vertically 3. Crooked 4. Missing bar tack, back tack or rivet
where specified 5. Bar tack or rivet not as specified 6. Sewn-in pleats or puckers 1. Any malfunction in
operation 2. Tape does not match color specs 3. Wavy zipper 4. Exposed zipper that distracts from
product's appearance 5. Irregular or uneven stitching on zipper 6. Crooked or uneven zipper 7. Bar tack
missing or incorrectly located at bottom or base of zipper 1. Misaligned 2. Missing or incorrect 3.
Defective in operation 1. Width is not uniform 2. Bottom stopper does not securely clinched 3. Top of
zipper not caught in band 4. Either side of fly extends past other side by excessive amount. 1. Labels are
not correct, text and/or layout 2. Located at incorrect location 3. Insecurely attached to the garment
Garment inspection procedures : During the course of garment production, i.e right from cutting to final
dispatch, Oxemberg QAD team will conduct various inspections as follows: 1. Inline/mid inspection :
This will be carried out during the production of garment in order to carry out this inspection effectively
following information is a must. A) Updated W/O sheet B) Style approved, saple approved by the
merchandiser C) Fabric, trims and accessories cards rectified by the merchandiser. D) Approved
measurement specification. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
24. 2. Random final audit or inspection : this will be carried out when goods are in the pressing and
packing till its completion. Oxemberg QAD team will carry out random audit at AQL 4 inorder to make
this audit a truly effective tool, since it is the last check point before dispatch, following information is
essential. A) All the line detail information mentioned there in plus. B) Washed approved samples ( in case
of washed order). C) Packing list wherever applicable. PRODUCTION PLANNING, SCHEDULING
AND CONTROLLING i. Planning: This involves a long term overview around the year, based on market
forecast. An agreement is necessary about whether the production unit can cope up with the expected
sales, in terms of overall volume and in terms of specialized plant and operatives. The action is required
of relevant departments to revise the plan, purchase the necessary machinery, train staff, obtain new
premises or lease off unwanted ones, buying additional capacity from other manufacturers etc. ii.
Scheduling: The work is allocated to the production capacity according to the agreed plan as soon as the
orders are confirmed. It is at this stage that schedules are prepared as an exercise and later drafted in
detail. iii. Controlling: The production process is very uncertain and rarely goes according to the
schedule, especially when the processes are complex and dependent on the performance of individuals.
Sometimes orders are cancelled and rush orders come through. Inefficiency can be avoided if the
preliminary work is done thoroughly and the routine terms are accurately recorded. Balancing is a part of
the process.

KEY FACTORS IN CONTROLING AND SCHEDULING i.Time/ unit input: e.g. meters

of cloth or SAM of work per minute. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

25. ii.Work in process delays: Extension in output time is necessary to provide buffer against fluctuations
in output where the no. of processes involved are many. iii.Technical maintenance: Proper usage and
maintenance of the machines and other electronically equipments should be done to provide smooth
operation processes. iv.Employee Training: The employees should be trained efficiently to increase
production efficiency and reduce wastage. v.Non productive hours: A provision for non-productive
hours should be provided in the total available minutes as these by default are bound to happen. For e.g.
lunch time, talking, going to washroom, sitting idle etc. These hours can be deceased by making changes
in the production plan wisely. vi.Line balancing: This is necessary to reduce the wastage of time as some
workers might be sitting idle because the feeding has not been done properly and the pieces are not being
delivered to them on time. The overall operation machine layout is faulty due to improper line balancing.
A machine layout is considered to be optimum if all the machines in the line are producing their required
quantities of pieces and no worker is sitting idle. Line balancing can be a way to increase the productivity
as increasing or decreasing unwanted operations from the line can be done. vii.Analyzing labour
requirements and deficiencies: A difference in skilled and non-skilled labour can be assessed and
accordingly work can be assigned to them. viii.Optimum utilization of time and raw materials: Any type
of unnecessary wastages should be avoided as far as possible. This requires a good production plan and
the co ordination of related activities.

Production flow This refers to the series in which the garment

moves from one workstation to another, requiring completion of the desired operation. The garments
move from one work station to another in a straight line. The straight could be work stations set up on
either side of a belt conveyer/runner table. There is little amount or work in process between the stations.
In these SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
26. cases, a limited amount of storage occurs after each workstation. This can take the form of work
bins attached to the machines stand in which the work is Straight line or conveyer chain system Where a
work station is is storage indicates the direction of movement A production process comprises of :
Fabric consumption calculation, Thread consumption calculation, Fabric inspection, pattern making,
fabric cutting, machine layout and SAM calculation completed, pilot run completed, testing sampling
completed, line sewing completed, finishing sewing completed, final machine inspection completed, end
of line quality check completed, off pressing and finishing done, packing completed and goods
dispatched.

Production Quality Control Quality implies value. It is something that is build into the

garment from the stage of market research and design right up to pack and dispatch and extends beyond
a careful analysis of the customer returns and consultation with the buyers. The quality of the garment is
the reason that is bought by the customer and comprises of a set of quality characteristics which
together make up its fitness for purpose. The key to profitable garment manufacture is to provide the
best combination at lowest cost the economic quality level. The costs of quality come from:
fabric and trimmings;
control function;

cutting and making and packing (including repairs and rejects);

Learning time of the workers;

Work content;

style;

Quality

Present productivity;

Other

overhead costs (like salary, electricity, administrative cost, maintenance, transport etc) SOFT ( NIFT,
Pune )
27. Fitness for purpose comprises of:
delivery and service Economic cost

Quality of design Quality of conformance Quality of

Quality Control Department The main function of the quality

control department is not to control quality but to provide a service which allows people to make good
clothes. Their main concern should be to do this at the minimum cost, balancing the expense of the
department against the savings in terms of reduced repairs and rejects. One aspect of this is to define the
quality level of plant and of the workplace in it. The raising of quality levels requires a major project
involving investment in machinery and training which cannot be done quickly. The maintenance of quality
at an agreed level implies clear specifications and these are an important task for this department. The
Product information sheet for individual styles can be kept as brief as possible. They should contain the
maximum information in the form of sketches and all dimensions should me quoted with tolerances.
Tolerances reflect the extent to which less than perfect is acceptable. However, small tolerances exist for
the garments. The function of the quality control department is to reduce the amount of bad work being
made. This gives savings in cost of the repairs and rejects but also speeds up delivery. Its aim is to make
garments correctly at the first time. When the consistency of quality is poor, the expected quality level is
substantially below standard. Greater consistency has an even higher priority than raising the standard of
the majority of the garments made. Tolerances These are the limits of acceptability expressed in figures
usually or by examples or photographs to demonstrate the limits of acceptability. For example, the
specification for a seam margin may be 1 cm and the tolerance is -/+2 mm. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
28. Quality characteristics Quality of design requires higher amount of market research to establish what
is the ultimate customers preference at an acceptable price amongst a competitive set of characteristics.
These can form the basis for design. Customers demand various combinations of the following, in
various orders of importance:

Price and value for money

Individuality of appearance Fashion is appropriate to the period and group Image enhancement (e. g
reliability of an executives suit, smartness for the air hostess etc) Comfort in wear, both from cut and
fabric Durability of function and appearance Psychological qualities(waterproofing, warmth, sweat
absorption etc) Ease of Care (crease and stain resistance, shape retention, washability etc) Size and shape
Consistency of the product The production incharge must stick to the specifications and should also
consider the needs of the retailers like: Consistency (means to achieve the required quality level, the will
to confirm of Management and workforce, maintaining the specifications with tolerances). Delivery on
time Lower cost to support competitive price. Quality Specifications o Factory specifications
Cloth and trimmings, button spacing Threads, needle types and sizes, by fabric and seam type Stitches
per inch or per 2 cms Seam types, seam margins and tolerances Cutting standards o Style or garment
specifications

Items of difference

Special size ranges and grading

Key features and quality points

SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

29.

Special tolerances

fading)

Fabric and trimmings, colors and shades ( shade cards checked regularly for

Department wise quality system in factory 1) FABRIC STORES: o Neatly arrange the fabric

rolls received and maintaining the department cleanliness to avoid spotting and contamination of the
fabrics. Packing the fabrics in plastic sheets can be useful. o Fabric inspection is done on 4 point system.
o Shade cards/fabric quality swatches for each style approved by the PO are maintained. 2) TRIMS

STORES: o Trims stores have racking system to store the trims in a proper order. o Trims card for each
PO/style being processed should be maintained. 3) CUTTING SECTION: o Making CSV ( centre to
selvedge variation) sample for each of the roll to analyze the shade variation. o Maintaining shade samples
and providing shade details to presentation checkers in finishing dept for shade reference. o Proper
pattern checking report. o Proper lay check, marking check, sorting/bundling check report. o Cutting
projection tallies updated. 4) SEWING SECTION o Effective maintenance for each of the machine. o
Proper updated broken needle log (should have needle issuing record from stores and properly pasted
broken needle book). o Keyhole, bartack, overlock, label attach operation internal approvals and display
of mockups. o Effective mockup system on all operational areas. o All scissors and trimmers should be
secured properly. o Clearance of WIP at all levels. o Display of trim card at required areas. o Checking
garments before wash and after wash for both quality and measurement. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
30. o Random in-line checking at each chain stitch operation like feed of arm machine. o Each supervisor
is advised to check randomly the operation in their own working limits. o Each operator is advised to
clean their machine and area before start of work in the morning and after lunch- waste fabric is issued
to the operator for the same. o In-line and end-line checking report. o Before wet processing in-line audit
report is also maintained. o Washing facility is not available in-house. Its done on jobber basis. 5)
FINISHING SECTION o Fabric defect identification by stickering and alteration piece identified by
knotting at place of alter by the checker. o Dusting is done by dust pads wherever sucking machine is
not used. o Cartoons are properly stacked. o Presentation checker to have ready reference of shade cards
of fabric and trims cards as well. o Daily checking report is maintained. o Measurement audit report is
maintained. o Pre-final auditing is also gone on garments. o Defective cartoons are replaced by good
cartoons. 6) PACKING AND DESPATCH SECTION o Separate departments are maintained for topwear
and bottom wear. o The fully packed garments are racked in sequential manner and each rack is given a
number for identification. o Garments are stored brand wise, sizewise, and garment wise. o Barcode
stickering is done and checked. o Packing in inners and outer cartoons is done according to the size ratio
or packing specifications as specified. o Goods to be shipped are packed readily with proper covering
and sealing and kept near the main gate to be loaded in the cargo. o Proper recording of dispatch, packing
and stock stored in-house pending for shipment are maintained along with Chelan entries of cargo and
transportation services. o Good relations with distributors are held. 7) ENTIRE WORKING AREA o o o
o Properly certified fire extinguisher to be free from all obstacles. Each operator to wear mask to avoid
inhalation of dust inside the factory. Dust collection bags for each work station/machine. Separate area
for storing rejected garments. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
31. o Proper covering of stored pieces. o Properly maintained QC reports and files maintained by QA.
Department wise quality check points Fabric Store - 100% fabric inspection Trim & accessories- Trims
inspection Cutting Room - Marker checking Cut parts checking or audit Bundle inspection Embroidery 100% inspection of embroidery Sewing Department - Inline check point (at critical operation) Roaming
checking (Random checking) End of Line checking (100%) Audit of checked pieces Initial finishing
inspection (after wash) and alterations Final finishing inspection (After Pressing) Internal shipment audit
Finishing Department - 1. Fabric Store: In the fabric store fabric is being checked before issuing it to
cutting department. In general not all the fabric is checked. 100 % fabric checking is done. Fabrics are
checked in flat table, flat table with light box or on fabric checking machine. 4 point system for fabric
inspection is used to measure the quality level of the incoming fabric. 2. Trims & Accessory: Trims
quality is also very important for having a quality garment. Trims inspection is done randomly against the
given standards, like color matching. But for trims and accessories quantity checking is essential. 3.
Cutting Room: It is said that cutting is the heart of production. If cutting is done well then chances of
occurring defects in the following processes comes down. In cutting room, check points are I) marker
checking, ii) cut part audit and iii) bundle checking. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
32. 4. Embroidery checking: It is also not a compulsory process. If there is embroidery work in the
garment panels then 100% inspection is done before issuing to sewing. 5. Sewing Department:
Checkpoints in the sewing departments are as following. - Inline inspection: In assembly line generally
check pints are kept for the critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially
stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the next process. - Roaming inspection: In this
case checkers roam around the line and randomly check pieces at each operation. - End of line inspection
or table checking: A checker checks completely stitched garment at the end of the line. 100% checking is
done here. - Audit of the checked pieces: 100% inspected garment are sent to finishing from sewing
department. And all defective pieces are repaired before sending to finishing. 6. Finishing Department:
Check points in finishing department consists - Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to
pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. - Final finishing Inspection: After
pressing garments are again checked and passed for tagging and packing. - Internal final audit: After
garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality control team, does audit of packed garments. This

process is carried out to ensure that before handing over shipment. If the completed work is being
checked at each process and defective pieces are corrected before handing to the next process than at
the end of production there is very little chance to have a defective at final inspection stage. SOFT (
NIFT, Pune )
33. FINISHING DEPARTMENT The finishing process includes all those activities concerned with
making the appearance of the fabric more presentable. It includes activities like stain removal, thread
trimmings, washing, ironing, tagging, and hanger alignment.
pockets etc.
stitching.

Bartack: Putting barracks on loops,

Washing: Sometimes, the buyers demand that garments must be given a wash after
Button, button hole and rivet attach

Extra Thread trimming: The extra threads which have

been left uncut are trimmed. This can be done manually with thread cutters.

Stain removal: Different

types of stains might be formed at the time of garment handling operations. Different kinds of stains
include ball point stains, oil stains, dirt stains etc. Different kinds of chemicals are used for their removal.
For example, Ball point stain is removed with ink remover, stains on white fabrics are removed with a
chemical called Ariel lines, Ltk-45 is used for removing yellow and black stains from colored fabrics,
N-9 is used to remove stains on light colored fabrics, Emrol-ol and petrol is used to remove other
hard stains.

Thread sucking : this is done to remove the threads stuck to the fabric surface that are too

minute to remove. For this, a thread sucking machine is used to remove threads with air blow and
vaccum sucking. Also, adhesive tapes are wrapped on rolls and then moved over the garments, especially
in trouser finishing this step is essential. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
34.

End of line inspection:Garments are compared against measurements and tollerences, defects,

loose and misaligned threads and buttons, open seams etc.

defects will be sent for alteration.

Alteration: Any garment found faulty of

Ironing: After all these steps, the garments are ironed in a proper

manner, folding on the right creases. Steam ironing is preferred. The garment measurements are
continuously monitored at the time of ironing also. The garments can be shrunk or stretched to some
extent in case the measurements go beyond the tolerance levels. Ironing depends upon the type of fabric
viz. knitted or woven. Knitted garments require light pressing where as wovens require deliberate
wrinkle removal and crease setting. A dolly or body form press is also used to trouser pressing.
WORKFLOW OF FINISHING Bartack and buttonholing Washing Button and rivet attatch Thread
sucking Stain removal Thread trimming End of line inspection Alteration Ironing Warehousing Packing
Tagging and stickering

TYPES OF DEFECTS I. PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENTS: (CAD)

Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of
parts. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
35.

Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong

sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics.

respect to the fabric grain.

Patterns not aligned with

Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated

lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.

Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not

use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze
the pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric.

The pattern may have worn out edges.

Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn
together with puckering and pleating.
the lay get cut with bits missing.

Not enough knife clearance freedom.

lines across the seam are not matching.

box across the seam.

When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of
Wrong check matching, i.e.

Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial

Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced. II. SPREADING

DEFECTS IN GARMENTS

Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.

Plies

misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the
spread.

Narrow fabric width, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing.

Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in
sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.

Not all plies facing in correct direction

(whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens
when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as required.
the garment parts. Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors.

Unacceptable damages in

Spread distorted by the attraction

or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity e.g. in satin fabric.

Plies are not spread

accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks. III. CUTTING DEFECTS
IN GARMENTS SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
36.

Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts.

Top and bottom plies can

be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread.
Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric.
Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too
high a speed knife cut.
previous piece.

Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting

Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread.

Garment parts have bits missing at

edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted.

Spread distortion due to

electricity, particularly in checks. IV. COLOR DEFECTS IN GARMENTS Color defects that could
occur are difference of the color of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of
wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces. V.
SEWING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS Broken buttons Broken snaps Broken stitching Creasing
of garments Defective snaps Different shades within the same garment Dropped stitches Exposed
notches Exposed raw edges Fabric defects Holes Inoperative zipper Loose / hanging sewing threads and
buttons Misaligned buttons and holes Missing buttons Missing stitches SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
37.

Needle cuts / chews Open seams Pulled / loose yarn ( thread tension ) Stain

Unfinished buttonhole Wrong stitching technique

on the garment, creasing of the garment

Zipper too short

Usage of different color threads

Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in

measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such
defects do not occur has to be seen too. VI. WASHING DEFECT IN GARMENTS A rotation, usually
lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during
laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque
or Spiraled.

WAYS OF DEFECT ALTERATION OBSERVED Most of the fabric defects that are not

acceptable in garments are removed during cutting and stitching processes. Still damaged part is found in
the sewn garment due to heavy washing, dyeing or other reasons. Instead of rejecting the defective
garment, only damaged part can be changed and converted it into a quality garment. It should not
increase the fabric consumption or produce further defective garment in the part changing process 1.
End bit usage for part changing: In the cutting room, during layering cutters store end bits that are not
layered in the lay for a cutting. These end bits are one type of cutting waste. So for the part change we
can use those end bits without increasing fabric consumption. We need to take care about shade
matching or lot matching of the fabrics with the damaged garments. If the garments were heavily
washed, then it will be very difficult to match the garment fabric shade. After changing the parts garment
must be washed again to give matching finished look and similar hand feel. 2. Fresh fabric usage for Part
changing: SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
38. If there are not enough end bits to replace the damaged parts from the garment, then available fresh
fabric is used. Only use fresh fabric if there is no problem with shade matching otherwise it will increase
the fabric consumption. But for solid colors and yarn dyed fabric there is no issue related to shade
matching. 3. Using good components from other damaged garments: This option is chosen when
garments are dyed and there are no fresh fabric or end bits or fresh fabric for that order. Also for the
high value garment with fine hand embroidery work and where you have less time to complete the
shipment, this option is preferred. Here we need to keep care of shade matching. SHIRT AND
TROUSER WASHING 1. Drum washing m/c (horizontal loading) Capacity: 98kg (big) 450 and 48kg
(small). This machine is used for washing cotton shirts and trousers. This machine can also be used for
dyeing. Shirt 200 germs Trouser 700 germs Denim 800 germs Garment Shirt Trousers 98kg m/c
350 pHs 200 pHs 48kg m/c 200 pHs 80pcs 2. Sample washing m/c (horizontal loading) Capacity: 8 kegs
This is used for washing the samples that are less in quantity. 3. Hydro extractor (squeezing m/c) 4.
Dryer (S.R.E engineering) Shirts 200 Trouser 60 pcs SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
39. 5. Steam boiler Gas, coal, thermal oil

WASHES a. Softener wash ( enzyme wash ) Its of 3 types

ionic, non-ionic, and cationic. b. Enzyme wash OT, desizer, lubricant, water washing at 52degrees,
Acetic acid (pH), Enzyme (to stabilize), Water wash, Silicon, softener. Power wash enzyme: Powdered
enzyme is used with ball beating Biofinish c. Detergent wash Ariel and tide d. Leather wash e. Powder
wash pumice in powder form f. Pumice stone wash

PRECAUTIONS FABRIC Pigment padded fabric

White garment Worsted fabric Trouser Shirt fabric Yarn dyed X No heavy wash is given because it can
cause color bleeding. No heavy wash No heavy wash Enzyme wash, leather wash can be given. Enzyme
wash. Beach ball wash, chlorine bleach ( caco2 + thermal balls) Heavy wash DENIM WASHES o
MACHINERY USED Front vertical loader m/c: (98kg, 150kg, 300 kg). SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
40. 1. Raw/Rinse wash: removal of sizing agent and then garment is rinsed, softener is added and then
dried in hydro. No fading process is done. 2. Raw resin: This is done to fix the color onto the fabric and
to make it wrinkle resistant. Catalyst, softener and resin are added then ironing is done. 3. Denimix: After
desizing, enzymes (bio-degradable agent) are added (acidic/neutral) to give fading of color (lighter tone).
For fancy denims, scraping and tucking is used along with denimix. Neutral (pH 6.5-7) Temp 45-55
degrees Neutral (pH 4.5-5.5) Temp 45-55 degrees + Acetic acid is added otherwise enzyme wont work
4. Stone washing (bleaching): In this, chlorine bleach is used yellowness from fabric and to five faded
effect. Time required for bleach depends on the original sample/shade card. Neutral ALCL3 or (H2o2 i.e.
hydrogen peroxide, soda ash, soap, tinopol). After stone washing, we can do brightening (with tinopol)
to remove chlorine. 5. Ice wash: Its similar to stone washing, but more qty of bleach is used. 6. Dyeing:
The denim is dyed in different color. After desizing, its bleached and then dyed. Denimix and softening

processes follow if required. 7. Pumice stone denimix: After desizing, denimix wash is given and after
that its abraded with pumice stone. For denimix 40-120 grms/pc pumice stone has to be added and for
stone wash, denimix+bleaching is used. 8. Vintage: After denimix, we tint the denim with direct dye or
reactive dye. VALUE ADDED WASHES:1. Tucking : The piece is tucked with the help of tucking
machine at the place where we want to have the wash effect. 2. Scraping: Sandpaper is used to scrap the
fabric to reveal the faded effect. 3. Spraying: Dyes are sprayed over the garment in different angles and
strokes to reveal the sprayed effect. 4. Whiskering: 5. Crinkling 6. Crackle: The piece is tied at the place
where we want to avoid color penetration in pleats and then dyed. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
41. 7. Grinding: Upper layer of the fabric is peeled/scrapped off with a grinding machine. 8. Sandblasting:
Pressurized compressed air with sand is blown on the garment. 9. Ball blast: Its conducted into wooden
m/c. bleach+caco3 power is used. 10.G2: Its an advanced bleaching process done with ozone(O3).
Bleaching pressure is 240. If its done with chlorine bleach, it will become yellow. So, ozone is used.
11.Pigment spray: Pigment dyes are sprayed over the denim. CASE STUDY : Common Denim Seam
Quality Defects 1. Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting Where the thread is being broken where one seam
crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam)
resulting in stitch failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
42. - Use a higher performance core spun thread - Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the
thread is being cut. - Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on denim,
we should maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam. - Use needles
with the correct needle point. - Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle
Cuts are occurring frequently. 2. Broken Stitches- washing procedures Where thread on the stitch line is
broken during stone-washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re
stitching over the top of the stitch-line. Minimizing broken Stitches due to abrasion - Use a higher
performance core spun thread. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
43. - Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring - Make sure
stitches are balance properly, - Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs. 3. Broken Stitches
by Chemical Degradation Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering
resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical
Degradation: - Use a higher performance core spun thread that has greater resistance to chemical
degradation. - Using larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical
washes. - Making sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper
amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines. - Make sure the garments are being
rinsed properly to neutralize the chemicals in the SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
44. fabric. - Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure they are correct so
that the best possible garment quality can be achieved. 4. Unraveling Seams: Generally occurs on 401
chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will
cause seam failure unless the seam is Re stitched. 4. Minimizing unraveled Stitches: - Use a high
performance Core-spun thread that will minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches. - Insure proper
machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments. - Observe sewing operators for correct material
handling techniques. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
45. 5. Restitched Seams: Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then
the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by: 1. Thread breaks or thread run-out
during sewing; or 2. Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (I.e.,
stone washing). Minimizing Restitched Seams - Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include
going to a higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions. - Insure proper machine
maintenance and sewing machine adjustments; - Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and
adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation - Observe sewing operators for correct material handling
techniques. 6. Skipped Stitches: SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
46. Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips
are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs right before or
right after the heavy thickness. Minimizing Skipped Stitches: - Use minimum thread tension to get a
balanced stitch. - Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging. - Training sewing
operators NOT to stop on the thickness. - Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling. 7. Use core spun thread. Make sure the machine is not back feeding. Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:
Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during
subsequent laundering and handling operations. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
47. Solutions for wavy seams on stretch Garments - Use minimum presser foot pressure 0- Instruct
sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they are making the

seam. - Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of the fabric. 8. Ropy Hem: Where hem is not laying flat and is skewed in appearance. Solutions for Ropy Hems - Usually caused by
poor operator handling. - Instruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in
the folder before they start sewing. Also, make sure they don't hold back excessively as the seam is being
sewn. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
48. - Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure 9. Twisted Legs: Is where the side seam twists around
to the front of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans. Solutions for Twisted Legs: - Usually
caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator to match the front and back properly so
they come out the same length. Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should
NOT trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the same length - Make sure the
cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly operation. - Check fabric quality and cutting for
proper skew - Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and
bottom plies. 10. Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim: Is where the thread looks much smaller on
seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
49. Solutions to minimizing disappearing stitches on stretch Denim: - Use a heavier thread size on
topstitching. - Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi). - Make sure the thread tensions are as loose
as possible so the thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sewn in the
warp. 11. Thread discoloration after Laundry It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric
giving the thread a 'dirty' appearance. A common discoloration would be the pick-up of a greenish or
turquoise tint. Solutions to Thread Discoloration - Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics. Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during laundry. - Use the proper chemicals
& laundry cycles. - Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
50. - Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time. 12. Poor Colorfastness after
Laundry is where the thread does not wash down consistently in the garment or changes to a different
color altogether. Solutions to poor Colorfastness after Laundry: - Use thread with proper color fastness
characteristics. - Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix threads in a garment. Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new colors to assure that they will meet your
requirements. - Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color number and do not just pick
a thread off the shelf because it looks close in color. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
51. PACKING AND FINISHING ORDER PROCESSING, PACKAING AND DESPATCH

Order

Processing Order processing is the period between the time of placement of the order by the buyer to the
time of arrival of the goods at his destination. This cycle is made up of the transmission of the order,
document processing in the department and shipment of goods. The documentation is a routine activity.
The procedure of receiving and handling the orders, granting credit, invoicing, giving dispatching orders,
collecting the bills and post dispatch adjustments. Correct order processing can be very useful from the
point of view of the customers as it affects order time i.e. time interval between two orders of a
customer and secondly, the uniformity of delivery i.e. regular and dependable deliveries. Customer
Merchandising Department Order Processing SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
52. Credit Check Inventory Check Order for Dispatch Replenishment of stock Intimation to customers
Dispatch of goods Collection of payments

Packaging Packing is traditionally meant to protect goods.

However, it is also a promotional tool and a major image builder contributing to product success. Packing
is a process that speaks of companys ability to contain economically man made or natural products for
shipment, storage, sale or final use. Packaging on the other hand deals with activities of planning and
designing of different means of packaging the product. However, it should be noted that packing is
concerned with product protection while packaging is concerned product promotion. Objectives of
packing

Protection of the product: To keep the garments clean, fresh and unspoilt by using moisture

proof and damage resistant materials. Its done basically to avoid any type of deterioration or
contamination of the garment. The main aim is to maintain the quality of the garments intact unaffected
by dust and dirt.

Product identification: Packing is a convenient way to identify the products of

different buyers as each buyer would have a different type of packing requirement. The size, color
combinations, graphics used in each package are unique and can be easily remembered.

Product

convenience: Packing aims at providing maximum convenience to the purchasers, producers and
distributors alike. A nicely designed product package facilitates product shipping, storage, stocking,
handling and display on part of producers and distributors. Neat packing can bring reduction in inventory
costs, packing cost, space and time costs.

Product package promotion: A good packaging performs

effective advertising function. The general appearance and selling features created by the packaging
techniques decide the product success. As a promotional tool, it does self advertising, displaying,
publishing and acts as an advertising medium. Essentials of Good Packing

It should protect the

contents: A good packaging is a means of preservation of products from possible damage or loss in

value. The quality of the garments is maintained intact. The packing is SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
53.

designed to protect it against natural and artificial factors of damage like dirt, dust,

theft, shrinkage, contamination etc. It Should be attractive: Apart from protection, seeking the attention
of the consumers is also essential. Package design, weight, material, color combinations, graphics,
texture, illustrations etc form the essentials of a good package. Some customers buy products because
they are impressed by the packing. Therefore, package attraction generates impulsive buying. It Should
provide convenience: Good packaging increases product sanitation, ease in handling, transportation,
storing and using packages. The package so designed should grant highest degree of convenience to
manufacturers, distributors and consumers alike. Consumers are seeking packages that are easy to
handle, open and reusable. It Should be economical: Economy is something that reduces not only packing
and its expenses, but also brings down other allied expenses such as transport, warehousing, tax-levies
and handling. Cost reduction are possible through multi-packaging allows more cost re3duction than
when one pack is sold on its own. It should be pollution free: It is a well known fact all over the world
that packing has environmental problem, particularly the discarded packing. Hence it is advisable to use
recycled or bio-degradable packaging materials that minimize pollution. It should be informative:
Provision of information about product illustration, features/specifications, instruction to handle, prices,
the amount of product in the package, the content brands name, and other relevant information for the
consumer as well as distributor. Detailed labeling is a must. It should assure adjustability: The packaging
should have the ability to adjust or flexibility to be put to different uses. Paper packaging is known for
cheapness and lightness. It should be labeled: Labeling is the act of attaching or tagging labels. A label
may be a piece of paper , printed statement which is either a part of a package or attached to it, indicating
value of contents, price, product name, and place and name of producer. Thus, a label is an informative
tag, wrapper or seal attached to a product or products package. Considerations for new packing
development

In designing a new product package or redesigning the existing one, the manufacturers

take into account:

Nature of product: The type of container to be used depends upon the form and

ingredients of the product. Transparent containers are most suited for attractive colors and appearance,
vacuum sealed ingredients for volatile ingredients and glass containers to minimize chemical reactions.
Plastic and metal packages can also be used.

Costs: The cost of packing must be absorbed by the

production economies, increased sales volumes or higher price. The packing material, label, filling and
closure costs, handling, distribution and breakage cost of package are important.

Family resemblance:

If the product is one of a number of related items, its advisable to design the package that confirms to
the containers of other products in the same line to assist consumer and dealer identification
Advertising value: Unique shape, attractive design gives a package greater sales and advertising value.
Legal requirements: the packages must confirm to the laws prohibiting the deception of consumers by the
use of false bottoms, slack fill and other means of giving an impression that a SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
54. package contains a larger quantity than the case. There are legal requirements prescribing the copy
appearing on the labels of the cartoons which should be confirmed to.

Test the design in the market:

test-marketing must be conducted in the market to get indirect replies through dealer feedback.
Environmental checking: the packing development decision may be influenced by legal, ecological and
social forces. Thus issues like consumer packing safety, disposable packing, the quantity of packaging,
littering, wise labeling and so on. Packing strategies After the garments arrive from the finishing and
quality check department, they are packed in hangers or simple fold pack in polybags, according to buyer
requirements. Here, multiple packaging strategies are followed. It is a kind of strategy in which a no. of
closely related but heterogeneous products used by one consumer are placed in a single package. Such a
package conveys that idea of an ideal matching set that one should possess. For example as in case of
assorted collection kids wear packages are packed along together. It facilitates acceptance of a new
product idea by a consumer who normally may not want to venture into buying it. However there is
danger of the whole package being rejected through a consumer who is interested in only one or two
items in the total set. Since the consumer will have to buy the whole set he will reject the 2 items he was
favoring a will not buy the set.

Inventory Inventory management is a task of planning and controlling

of finished goods after they have been bought from the production department and before their delivery
to the users. It has 2 parts: Inventory and Warehousing.

Warehousing: This performs two functions

namely movement and storage of goods. Movement refers to the actual receipt of products from the
manufacturing centre their transfer in the warehouse and stocking at designated place, assorting to
consumer orders and transferring them to common carriers on their way to consumers. The storage
function is mainly concerned with holding and caring the goods from the time they are placed in, till they
are places out in common carriers. It is basically a safety and preservative function.

Inventory

controlling: Inventory implies the stock of goods held over a period of time for meeting the consumer
needs. For the production department, inventory means stock of raw material, machine and parts, stock
of goods partly manufactured and finished goods. For the distributors or dispatchers, it is the finished
stock meant of the final consumption.

Material Handling

This refers to the handling of the goods

ready for dispatch. They can be classified into:

Manual: This involves usage of human labour. This is

restricted to areas with unorganized plant layout and costs of movements.

Mechanical: This involves

the use of machines driven by power like for e. g cranes, trucks, stackers, side loaders, mobile cranes
etc. these have more fixed costs if the capacity utilization is less. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
55.

Automatic: These are fully automatic operated by automatic machines and computers. These

require heavy capital investments.

Transportation and Dispatch When the garments are readily packed

and arranged in containers/cartoons, they are arranged buyer wise and shipment date wise. Right
dispatch time means right delivery time. Hence there should be no delay in dispatching the goods from
the manufacturers premises because delivery time depends on the mode of transit viz. air, sea, and rail.
The main aim should be delivering the right product to the right place at the right time at economical
costs. Firms can attract lots of buyers by offering better service or lower prices through physical
distribution improvements. Similarly the profit margin for the manufacturers will be increased by making
this physical distribution more effective and efficient. Effectiveness and efficiency will bring in economy
and this will thus affect the profit margins. This is because the price of the product does not just include
the cost of production but also the cost of delivery. The cost of transportation is determined by the
distance covered and the volume of goods. Also, the performance of the transportation mode i.e. the
speed/pace of movement in kms /hr. Calculation of speed must take into account the total time from
point of start to point of destination.

Packing mechanism in the factory:Inner boxes are used to pack

the pieces. 1 inner can have 50-60 pieces. These inners are again packed in outer boxes. 1 box can have
3-5 inners. For example : Brand Oxemberg Beach pebble MSD J Hampstead Qty 60 ics 48 pcs Inner
packs pakaging 3 boxes 33pcs 48pcs The packing quantity per carton depends upon buyer
specifications. o Packing stratergies:1. MSD ( casual ) 1 small inner 12 shirts. So 1 big inner=5 inners
= 60 shirts Jeans pack size ratio wise SOFT ( NIFT, Pune ) 60pcs
56. 2. TROUSER ( oxemberg ) 1 inner = 16-17 pieces 3. o Storage: Racking is done size wise, style
wise, garment wise, sleeve length wise(half sleeves/full sleeves). Each rack is given a rack no.
Restickering according to buyer mentioned in memo. o Storage capacity: Shirt: 80000-2,00,000 &
Trousers and jeans 30,000 pcs o Distributor (MSD & Oxemberg) - S.V enterprises (Hyderabad) - A.M
patel (Oxemberg) - Maharashtra ( J.K apparels) - Chandigarh (Ahuja traders) - Delhi (Vishesh college) o
Cargo services T &T, XPS, TCI, VRL o Transport providers Lalji mulji transport, Batco india SOFT
( NIFT, Pune )
57. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

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