S.

Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

The forgotten & the Cursed Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar

The degraded Tharavais (Coastal Wetlands) and the shrunken genitals

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S.Rengasamy
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1.Our attempt to understand the Tharavais (Coastal Wetlands) of Gulf of Mannar (GoM) has
been similar to a Tamil proverbial saying – a buffalo bull that had been used to go to a drink for
eight years, was still doubtful about the way (ettu varusam erumaikadaa erikkup poka vazhi
thedumaam -எட்டு வருஶம் எருமைக்கடா எரிக்குப் ப ாக வழி பேடுைாம்) that means send a fool to the
market and a fool he will return.(Our means Vembar (Tuticorin Dt. Tamilnadu, India) based
People‟s Action for Development (PAD) in which I am also included) Even after several years,
we are trying to understand the tharavais of GoM in all its dimensions.

It was pre tsunami days. My friend Rajendra Prasad 2 Tharavai is a pure Tamil word. The word
etymologically derived from the Tamil root
has chosen Vembar, a coastal village adjoining the „Tara‟ which means earth/ land. The word is
borders of Ramnad – Tuticorin districts in Tamilnadu used in a special sense to bring out the
to start People‟s Action for Development (PAD). Our quality of land which is water logged/ water
spread/ water leaking wet lands. Another
experience and faith in participatory processes (PRA)
Tamil word, „sathuppu nilam „ which is also
was the only source of personal and organizational used to mean wet land /swampy land /marshy
strength. land are nearer in meaning but fail to bring
out the unique quality of tharavai. Tharavai
is used in the Gulf of Mannar region only
During an informal training session, the President of where we find soil rich in mineral ores which
Vembar (North) village Panchayat casually remarked make the logged water to get a different
that, “if tharavai would have been maintained properly, quality like a girl becoming a bride, then
it would have ensured them a better living”3. Mention mother, mother in law and granny. Water
that leaks out form tharavai into sea (GoM)
of tharavai was quite strange to us as it is for the first also makes Gulf of Mannar to harbor
time that we came across the term. Hence we could not amazing bio diversity. People feel that
understand the reason for his lament and complaint. tharavai water also contributes for the
Infact we little knew that tharavai is closely associated richness, bio diversity and generation of new
life farms in marine eco system. That is why
in enriching their livelihood. To gain a firsthand people feel that it is impossible to protect
knowledge, we visited the tharavai soon after the GoM by ignoring the role played by the
training. But we could see only the thorny bushes all tharavais.
around. But the soil beneath our feet was so silky and velvet like so soft. If bare footed, we could
better experience the feather touch of the soil, but we didn‟t dare to do so for the fear of thorns.
The people with us were enthusiastic in explaining how tharavai was looked and used by them in
the past. Though they surprised us, could not impress us for the doubt about the possibility of
thorny bushes once generated prosperity in the coastal villages still lingered in our minds.

Past history tells that tharavai belt covered a distance of nearly 30 Kms, extending form
Mookaiyoor (Ramnad Dt) to Periasamipuram in Tuticorin Dt. Kundar and Vembar Rivers are the
main rivers that flow across the tharavai and after filling it join the GoM. The fresh water in
tharavai replenished the ground water resources in and around and it encouraged both crop and
animal husbandry. Water in tharavai made fishes in the sea also to dance.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

“If you are committed to do anything for this area”, people implored in one voice, “then restore
and revive this tharavai which would be beneficial to all. It is better than serving the cause to
each and every village separately”.

The deep faith they reposed and their expectation motivated PAD to think more about tharavai.
PAD even promoted a people‟s forum which would actively indulge in rejuvenating tharavai.
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2. Tharavai for them is not a piece of water logged low land. It is closely associated with their
day to day life that the experiences run through their veins. Outsiders like us, at least
intellectually visualize it in order to comprehend their feelings. To visualize it one has to either
walk through the length and breadth or has to see it in maps. We searched for the maps. PAD had
no computer at that time and even Google‟s low resolution maps could not be accessed. When
we searched it in government maps, we came to understand several things. We were told about
cadastral maps and topo sheets of 1:25000 and 1:50000 scale. PAD decided to get the maps, but
the maps we got were of no use for us. We were told that meticulous maps are created for each
and every inch of the land and somehow the system enigmatized it, created an aura around maps
and guarded it under tight security. It is accessible only to the “recognized and reliable
researchers”. NGOs are not in the list of “recognized and reliable researchers”. (The restriction to
access maps made
PAD to generate its
own maps for its
own use is a
separate story)

Our efforts to collect

relevant information
through secondary
sources were of no
avail. Though the
Location of three tharavais in GoM (Red dotted lines) name of
Tharavaikulam
(derived from tharavai) was popular, no information worth to precede further our interest was
available. Tharavai is depicted as swampy area in maps. Swampy areas also referred as marshy
or salt marshy areas. In Tamil it is called as “sathuppu nilam” in some other parts of Tamilnadu
and in Srilanka it is called as “kaiveli nilam”

3. Is nameless is useless?
The lengthy semicircular tharavai which runs through several villages in two districts (Kadaladi
union in Ramnad Dt to Vilaathikulam union in Tuticorin Dt) was shown in the maps as “swampy
area” without a specific name. The physiography of a tank, lake, or river could be easily marked
with its boundaries in a map, but the tharavai is marked with light dotted lines in pale blue
background is not catchy to one‟s eyes like other landmarks.

Every pond, tank, lake, river carries a name in India. The name indicates its significance-either
its glory or usefulness. The namelessness of tharavai, infact surprised us. It is custom that people
won‟t name a useless, wasteland which doesn‟t deserve a name and that made us to think, since
tharavai doesn‟t have a name, it means that people, policy makers have not attached importance
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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

to it. Whether we have been misguided by a handful of locals with a hidden agenda to restore it
by glorifying it?
Box: Tharavais in Gulf of Mannar -90 Years before

Tharavais in Gulf of Mannar -90 years before

This map drawn in the year 1920 (Scale 1:
250000) and published in 1950 has been
downloaded from the archives Texas – Austin
University Library. Similar maps that too drawn in
the scale of 1:25000, 1:50000, published by the
Surveyor General of India available in India. But
not readily accessible for various reasons. This
map clearly shows the tharavai belt and the
coastal belt of GoM. The greening of the coastal
area nearly a century back and the present
condition of sandy soil makes us heave a sigh of
frustration

Gulf of Mannar
The area filled with blue colour is the tharavai belt, where fresh water
is logged in for months together which prevented sea water to seep into
the land on one side but also on the other side enriched the ground
water in the area. The area between tharavai and sea was so fertile and
if one bite and spit nail, it will grown into fingers-such was the
amazing fertility of the soil that the area enjoyed in the past

Dr. Pavendar, Dept of Geography, Govt. Arts College, Coimbatore .

When we shared our doubt with an elderly villager, we were made to bite the dust. He retorted
that our assumption bout tharavai is wrong and baseless. He explained further that we worship
the nameless under different names…Rama..Krishna…Vishnu…Ranga…Govinda etc. Similarly
tharavai has also got very many names. It bears the name of the village it passes through which it
runs. It cannot be encompassed under one individual name or one particular characteristic. Its
pervasiveness makes us not to assign a single name. Thus he concluded that the namelessness is
not an indication of uselessness; on the contrary it denotes its prided grandeur.

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Wisdom dawned upon us what we could not understand through our structured learning about
complexity and diversity. As we overthrown our doubts, and determined to probe further, there
came the unprecedented natural disaster which shook the whole world.
Box: Slender line between oblivion and curse

Slender line between oblivion and curse

Learning Disability and wrong pre ignition.
It is generally believed that learning disability is prevalent among children. But we are blind to the fact
that the very educational system of ours causes learning disability even among the educated and
makes them prejudiced to several things. As a result, we not only formulate wrong policies but also
become adamant in implementing it and that leads to complications and make attempts to find remedy
which we ourselves have created.
Refusing to recognize
When we were analyzing the data related to land use pattern and crops cultivated in a particular
development unit (panchayat union), we needed some clarifications and for that purpose we visited
the office agricultural department.
The information that we have already got from the agriculture department gave us the details of 18
crops cultivated and its area of coverage. It clearly mentioned two crops cultivated even in 15
hectares. The surprising thing that we noticed was that much of the land was marked as fallow and
there was omission of certain major crops like plantain, sugarcane, etc. When we enquired about that
the officials simply replied that the crops omitted come under the horticultural department. Hence the
omission.
Then we raised the other doubt. How can the land that is allowed by the farmers to grow prosophis
julifera (veli karuvel) to generate income through charcoal making be termed as follow land. Quick
came the reply that prosophis is not an officially recognized crop. That is why the land in which
prosophis is grown is not included and the department recorded it as a fallow land.
Prosophis and Tharavai
Prosophis is extensively grown than any other crop. It generates more income and employment
compared with other crops notified by the agricultural and horticultural departments. Infact it really
helped the landowners in that dry track who burnt their fingers with other crops. But nothing is
documented officially about prosophis -its problems and prospects, its long term impact on the
livelihoods, the linkages it generated etc.etc. Though it is visible it get unnoticed. Tharavais are also
facing the similar fate. Since the administrative responsibility is not properly fixed, nothing is
documented about it. Govt has forgotten it. Is there any difference between totally forgotten and
being cursed?

4. Tsunami-The thatched ladles which begun to scoop up rice.

Tsunami originated in the Indian Ocean, caused havoc in eastern coastal regions of India,
particularly in Tamilnadu. The whole world rose to the occasion and extended a helping hand to
mitigate and manage it. The help was spontaneous and overwhelming. There were many players
in the scene as said in a Tamil proverb, the ladles that was stuck in the thatch has begun to scoop
up rice (said of a person who has been not thought of, but who suddenly makes his appearance
with an air of dignity).

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But the Gulf of Mannar (GoM) where PAD was working was not that much affected, so it was
not given that much importance. One
cannot help describing tsunami, a Gulf of Mannar –The only sea with a Tamil name.
blessing in disguise for it broadened our The nomenclature of the Gulf of Mannar is thought
knowledge and sharpened our intellect provoking. The word “Mannar”, derive from Thalaimannar,
about marine ecosystem and marine a Srilankan Town (also named after a district), implies
that this area would have been under the care and
based livelihoods. People talked more control of the Srilankan Tamils in the past. Had it been
about mangrove forests, its need and under the control of mainland (India) Tamilians, it would
importance in preserving and protecting have been named as Gulf of Rama/ Ramasethu, Gulf of
Dhanuskodi or Valinokkam. Whatever it may be, it is a
the marine eco system and thereby
feather in the cap of Tamil, that a sea, that too a bowel
assigned a heroic status in the marine eco of bio diversity of the world, a sea that generated life and
system. sustained it, is named after Tamil.
Box: Gulf of Mannar –The only sea with a Tamil name.

Soon the impact of tsunami and the

lessons learnt by it began to dilute with the introduction of the controversial Sethu Canal Project
by the Govt of India. It forced people to talk about Gulf of Mannar. The voices in high pitch for
and against this project eclipsed other issues/ subjects, particularly of mangrove forest, for its
place and importance was captured by Coral Reefs, which are abundant in the GoM. Coral reefs
became the new hero.

The irony is both tsunami and Sethu Canal Project is associated with marine eco system, none
cared to talk about tharavai, which is also closely associated with marine ecosystem. Our
expectation of hearing one or two voices in support of tharavais (coastal wetland eco system)
remained but a dream. It is our fault that even after seeing a ruined wall (flawed thinking and
priorities) we went there to knock our head against it.

5. Experts understanding of tharavai-the coastal wet land

If the mountain doesn‟t come to the prophet, the prophet has go to the mountain. When we found
that tharavais are being neglected by the subject experts, we decided to meet them and seeking
their advice. But we were once again deeply disappointed for all of them invariably had the same
opinion about tharavai that is nothing but a wetland.

The extensive and exhaustive discourses on wetlands, the need and importance of protecting it,
the Ramsar Convention with continental examples, but no awareness about the existence of
wetland (tharavai) in GoM reminded us of comedians in films who beat around the bush.
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6. Our meeting with experts of marine eco system failed to yield the desired knowledge, for
they, despite their wide knowledge of coastal eco system, mangrove forests and coral reefs failed
to enlighten us on tharavai, which is an important and indispensible component of GoM eco
system. The interaction made one thing clear that tharavai is commonly known as wet land. But
the people instead using “sathuppu nilam” (swampy area, marshy land or salt marshy land), use a
unique term, „tharavai‟ in order to generalize, the experts bulldozed the unique feature of
tharavai and categorized it as wetland. No doubt tharavai has certain common characteristics of
wetland, but there are uniqueness too. The implication of the term tharavai is still deeper. The

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)
Box: Tharavai as shown in the maps

pity is that even those who value wetlands, its positive role in maintaining bio diversity,
sustaining flora and fauna, for its richness and fertility failed to appreciate the nature and
function of tharavai.

Though tharavais have been there for generations, we could gather information from elderly
people, who in their youth happened to see tharavai in somewhat good form.

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7. Tharavai –People’s understanding

In those days when tharavai was filled with water, it not only prevented the seepage of sea water,
but also oozed out fresh water into the sea. Both on the western side (land between tharavai and
GoM) and eastern side, it enriched ground water which was sweeter than the tender coconut. The
combined quality of the soil and the water resulted in the enrichment of fertility to such an extent
that even if we spit nails that could yield a harvest of fleshy fingers.

Today‟s Vembar is noted for fishing was in those days famous for palm jaggery and tender betal.
There is a folk song glorifying the quality of betal leaves cultivated here. Cultivation of betal
leaves requires right type of soil and good quality of water. The area had both so it was possible.
The palm trees of this area used to secret
manna like water (pathaneer) and that
gave a unique quality of jiggery for which
the area was famous. When the elders
used to sail into the sea for fishing, the
children would pick fish from tharavai
like pebbles. But today the same tharavai
presents a sad picture which gives an
eyesore. It is full of thorny bushes. Even
the dried up tanks offer a chance of
cultivating cucumber, but te tharavai at
Tharavai converted into saltpans near Periasamipuram present state totally helpless in this regard.

Tharavai was the gate way to the sea. It served as a swimming pool to the children, before they
enter into the sea. People have not taken tharavai water for drinking purposed directly, but the
cattle drunk it. When water was there in tharavai, it energized and gave life to everything in the
land as well as in the sea.

The total transformation and degradation of their swimming pool once, the energizer of
everything into a wasteland of thorny bushes agonized them. The very sight is an eyesore which
makes them mentally upset.

So vast an area if it is located near a city, would have been used by the municipal authorities as a
solid waste dumping yard or encroached by the people for construction of houses; in the coastal
area would have been converted into saltpans or prawn farms, which in due course, would have
lost its utility value and become a dry and unusable land. But nothing significantly happened like
that in GoM tharavais. We learnt that a portion in one of the tharavai has been converted into
saltpans by the government itself and abortive attempts to establish prawn farms were also made.
In some areas farmers encroached tharavai.

Gulf of Mannar is declared as a National Marine Park and it is one of the four bio reserves
recognized by UNESCO in India. Environmentalists throughout the world are taking interest in
preserving this rare gift of nature. Billions of rupees is poured into the GoM, to protect and
sustain it, a home for rare species of marine life, sea grass, sea weed and coral reefs.

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Gulf of Mannar is more than a sea. It might be the “paarkadal” (Milk Sea) as mentioned in Hindu
mythology. The milk sea is the abode of Lord Vishnu, the protector of life, that is why GoM is
harboring biodiversity and generating new life forms.

Gulf of Mannar might be the “Milk Sea” (Paarkadal), or else drops of nectar might be fallen into
that when the celestial beings grinded the sea to extract nectar. Or else people question, how
could this sea is endowed with rich biodiversity.

Tharavais are aqua forts created by Mother Nature. Forts that we know consist of interior and
exterior. But this nature made forts are unique without interiors and exteriors. Its multivarious
functions include storing of waters of Vembar and Kundar Rivers, preventing the seepage of sea
water into the land and enriching the ground water in the area surrounding it, oozing out fresh
water into the sea during low tide thereby creating a congenial atmosphere for the creatures in
the sea besides supporting unique flora and fauna.

Experts assign several

reasons for the
uniqueness of Gulf of
Mannar as a sea is
supporting bio diversity.
But the people felt that, it
is the presence of
tharavais along the GoM
and the nectar it believed
to ooze out into the sea is
also one of the reason for
the uniqueness of GoM, Clear picture of tharavai seen near Vembar
to make it as one of the
world‟s wonderful sea.

8. People and the Experts.

We soon realized the difference between people and the experts voicing their concerns about an
issue. People express their understanding not through language but through symbols and signs,
while the scholar‟s expresses it intellectually and uses the garb of language to express themselves
explicitly. But development workers should find a via media which unite both. One has to
appreciate people‟s beliefs and feelings and at the same time there should be scientific approach
to establish reliability. We (PAD) found dialogue and participation may show the right path. For
we realized pretty well that using participatory methods alone could overcome the embarrassing
situation of experience and wisdom being outwitted and scorned by shallow intellect. Modern
education makes majority of us so haughty and we disrespect to the worldly wise and the
experienced. Theoretical knowledge tries to overpower practical wisdom that was gained through
centuries of experience and practice.

9. Wet land- Water- Moisture- & Prayers.

It is interesting to know how the worldly wise and scholars differ themselves in their
understanding of wet lands to which tharavai belong.

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Eera Nilam (wet land) and Tharisu Nilam (dry land)…eeram means wet… which symbolizes
mercy or sympathy. It is the wet heart (eeramaana manasu) makes human beings out of flesh and
bones. Unsympathetic, dry heart makes us to be a beast. We do appreciate rains just because it
makes the soil wet/moisturizes and make it suitable for cultivation. Why we pray? because
prayer moisturizes our heart and mind, so that we can be sympathetic throughout our life. Wet
land is an energizer…it is like gentle breeze… it is like rain… it is like solar heat and lunar cold.
We are surprised to listen and learn from the villagers the way they reinforced our faith and
interest in wet lands (tharavai)

10. Many dimensions of water

Their perception of tharavai emerges from their perception of water. It is not unscientific but it
goes beyond science. The colorless, odorless, tasteless liquid assumes different quality
depending on the soil it runs through. This is what every educated persons learnt it from the text
books. Alas our understanding just stopped there. We are unable to contemplate and further
construct a meaning beyond it. What we have learnt it from the people… water is not thing…not
a commodity…it has life …it is an energy and it flows…it metamorphosis…it evolves from one
to another.

It was educative to listen from an elderly farmer about water. My name is Alagupandi. Son of
Uzhavu Manickam. I play many roles in life. Son to my parents, father to my children, grand pa
to my grand children, son-in-law, father in law, brother etc. Besides I am a friend, foe, nephew,
neighbor, corner house Pandi. When an ordinary man like me plays many different roles in a
single life, cannot water, the life giver and life saver take many more roles.

When water flows through a river it is river water, when it reaches tharavai it becomes different.
When it oozes out into the sea it become entirely different. It is like a son / boy becoming a bride
groom, a husband, father, father–in–law and finally become a grandpa.

While we sit in front of them, their mouths sprinkle their saliva in which centuries of wisdom
saturated with, flashes into our face. But we have to agree that more they flash their saliva the
wiser we grow.

11. Who is responsible for deterioration?

The widening of our understanding about tharavai that too gained from the people forced us to
shoot the pertinent question, “when you are so well aware of the importance of tharavai why did
you allow it to deteriorate?”. Quick came the retort. “No one can be blamed for the deterioration
of tharavai. Misplaced priorities of those who are in the helm of affairs, aiming at the quick
returns rather than waiting for the permanent and sustainable results, sheer inability to assess the
importance and interrelationship between the things we value, and more than that the basic
human assumption that the grass on the other side is greener that makes us to ignore what lies
beneath our feet”. No one in particular but all of us allowed it to deteriorate. Their sharp retort, a
revelation of their mental maturity, brings to limelight their perfect understanding of current
politics and policy making process and that motivates us to introspect.

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We wondered why these people remained passive spectators when their prime source of
livelihood was subjected to slow, steady but sure decay before their own eyes. Was it their
ignorance or indifference or inability or all combined together? Their understanding of current
situation and way they analyze the contemporary matters clearly prove that they are not at all
ignorant. For example, if we ask them to opine the launches which just sweep away even the
fingerlings in their fishing area and deprive them of their livelihood, though they dislike and
angry with the launch owners, they just reveal that though the launch owners‟ act is not
justifiable, how could they even pay the interest for lakhs of rupees they have borrowed from
banks and money lenders, leave alone the repayment of loan, if they do ethical fishing like us.

They even preempt the advocates of „inclusive thinking‟. They always see the other side of the
coin too.

#BecomingaprofessionalThe words of wisdom of a simple, plain spoken fisherman while

mending his nets in his soiled and torn out lungis, which could not hide even his shrunken genital
are worth listening.

“Sir, Vembar and Kundar Rivers are the main water resources that filled this tharavai to its brim
before they ran into the Gulf of Manner. It is but natural for all rivers to run into sea with it‟s
over flowing water, particularly during rainy season. But there is a misconception about this
natural phenomenon. It was constructed that the river water running into sea was waste. Perhaps
the farmers whose cultivable lands lie fallow due to scarcity of water may be night. But for us „as
one‟s food is other‟s poison‟, the curse of farmers is the blessing of fishing community for the
union of river and sea water provides right condition for the fishes to breed. The difference
between the priorities of farmers and fishermen is the root cause of all eventualities. The
fishermen remains an invisible part of the society and hence weak, while the farmer presents
himself as an important and indispensable part of the society and hence powerful. Might is right.
If the farmers feel that the river water is running into the ocean wastefully, the government
naturally diverts it to the benefit of the farmers.

But all of you conveniently forget or failed to understand or pretend not to understand – that all
waters of all rivers do not run into the sea. Infact the waters of Gundar and Vembar Rivers run
into the sea only after completing their mission of filling the tharavai, which is capable storing
half of the Ganges. Yet forced by the misunderstanding, the government constructed more than
60 check dams in Gundar River alone to divert the water there by denying water which is due for
our tharavai.

The irony is that the same people are infuriated when dams are built across Brahma Putra,
Cauvery, Paalar Rivers by Chinese, Kannadians and Andhrites respectively. The same people
who denied water to our tharavais are seeking our solidarity to express our opposition to the
above governments. If we want to revive our tharavai we have to fight with our own farmers and
government to give our right share of water, which will result in removing of several check dams
constructed across the river.

Though tharavai is a water body, water storage and water harvesting place, it is neither a tank nor
a lake not even a pond… nor does it have a particular command area to irrigate upon. Had that

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been the case, command area farmers, the ayacutthars (or the beneficiaries) would have fought
for their right and protected the tharavai. No one owned tharavai. The entire area enjoyed its
benefits when it was in good condition. But no one comes to its rescue when it deteriorated. Our
constant attempt to find new avenues for livelihood and the success we gained, make us arrogant
to defecate on the goldmines under our own feet. Those who have no alternative, those who are
chained to land, farming and fishing, they only worry about tharavai and they remain powerless.
Box: Mahabharatha and PRA (Participatory Rural Appraisal)

Mahabharatha and PRA (Participatory Rural Appraisal)

In order to involve people in the protection and management of the bio reserve, the Gulf of Mannar
Bio Reserve Trust, adopted strategies that have been used in the bio- reserves and sanctuaries. Gulf
of Mannar coastal areas was extensively surveyed with the help of the nongovernmental organizations
with a proven professional track record to understand people, the way they use the resources of GoM,
what procedures and programmes can be designed without jeopardizing the livelihoods and protecting
the bio reserve/ marine park. The initial survey reports are available in the web and it is regrettable
that there is no reference about the tharavais (wetlands) and its contribution to livelihoods and
maintenance of bio diversity.
Ask you will be given
For an agriculture related study, we had to go to a new village, the main crop of which was mango.
We knew no one in the village and the participatory exercises designed for the study demanded a
good rapport with the villagers. In order to avoid unnecessary delay in introducing ourselves and
establishing rapport with the community, we thought of getting help from an influential official who is
known to the village community and respected by them. We approached an official in the horticultural
department and he has agreed to help us by visiting the village and enable us to facilitate the PRA
exercises as we planned. The accompaniment of that official with us and his presence did a magic in
the community. Facilitation has become so pleasant. Information was literally pouring. Quickly we
evolved a matrix and the participants were putting in the matrix about the details of different varieties
of mangos cultivated(34 varieties), its pest resistance, yield level, taste of each variety, retail and
whole sale disposal, varieties preferred by the pulp and pickle manufacturers, gender roles in
harvesting and marketing etc. etc. We (PRA team) delighted at the outcome. Seeing the wealth of the
information is shared by them, the officer also wonder stuck. Unable to control himself, he asked the
villagers, “I have been with you for the past 15 years helping you to avail government schemes for
mango cultivation. But you people never shared this with me, but with these outsiders you are freely
sharing” For this the villagers replied, “we agree with you sir! that we have never shared this with you
because you never asked us.
Ask you will be given. The biblical saying is not only relevant for asking the blessings but also for
information.
Listen & Learn
We (PAD) are like any other medium sized NGO. PAD doesn‟t have highly qualified professionals in its
pay role. Yet what other NGOs, bureaucrats, experts have missed or forgotten came to the knowledge
of PAD, is not because PAD is supersensitive to the people‟s issues. The total credit for PADs
awareness and understanding about tharavais should go to the participatory process (PRA) that it
employed – is it not PRA is simply a process of listening to the voices of wisdom.
As Yasodha, the mother of Lord Krishna have seen the world in the butter filled mouth of child Krishna
and as Arjuna internalized the words of Lord Krishna in the battle field of Kurushetra, one has to listen
to the voices of people with admiration, respect and faith in order to understand and act upon what is
best for all of us.

The fisherman with whom we were talking was so engrossed in mending his net that he didn‟t
care to notice that his lungy is now completely rolled up and exposed fully his shrunken genital.
When one of us signaled him to adjust his lungy, he took it lightly and made a jovial comment,

11
 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

„leave it sir, it is also dried up like our tharavai and hence useless‟. He continued his work of
mending his nets.

When we were returning one of the staff remarked that after listening from the fisherman, he is
convinced about what the people told about tharavai, and its contribution in the past, is true to its
essence. When we asked him what made him to conclude like this, he retorted to our surprise.
Though vulgar, the metaphor he used was quite convincing. The elderly fisherman with whom
we were talking had a big family. In the past he was the „minor‟ (play boy) of the village. His
comparison of his shrunken genital and the dried up tharavai makes it clear. Both should have
been active, fertile and useful in those days. This comparison in a way shed our doubts of the
glorious past of the tharavai…and convinced that tharavais might have contributed for the
richness of life in the area.

12. Public Works Department.

The public works department (PWD) that manages and control water resources in Tamilnadu
since the days of British rule, considers rivers, tanks and lakes alone as water resources. It lays
down certain criteria like banks, borders, boundaries, inlets and outlets and above all specific
command areas for taking care of. As tharavai doesn‟t satisfy any of these criteria, it does not
come under its purview / priority. Tharavai is a wet land that store rain water till it gets
evaporated. The water and the land in which it is stored, and the area which benefit from water,
comes under the purview of different government departments. But it is a million dollar question
under whose control and management such wet lands like tharavai comes in India in general and
Tamil Nadu in particular.
13

13. Though PAD has grown to hire the services of experts in marine eco system, but they
lacked knowledge in the particular (tharavai) eco system. Whatever knowledge PAD gained
about taravai was derived from its interaction with the local people.

It is quite strange and shocking that even websites draw a blank in the matter of tharavais of Gulf
of Mannar though they have much to offer on other aspects related to marine eco system.
Though our discussions with people proved beneficial, we could not gain much in a single
sitting. As we know Rome was not built in a day, we patiently pursued the matter. Not all of
them in the area, particularly the younger generation, knew much about the tharavai and there
were instances when we were turned down for many considered it as a waste of time to discuss
things of futility and those with knowledge about tharavai shared their understanding in piece
meal.
14

14. No doubt Gulf of manner is a bio – reserve wonder. Coral reefs of hundred varieties, more
than 3600 varieties of fishes, hundreds of sea weeds and sea grasses…it has everything to claim
it as a biological wonderland. It is usual to glorify regions with a tag of prestige as the „soil of
valor‟, soil that nurtured…art and culture…music…devotion…Tamil language etc. Similarly
Gulf of Mannar nurtured bio diversity in its bowels. It is our bounden duty to protect it.

It is a welcome move by the Govt. of India that it declared the Gulf of Mannar as the National
Marine Park. In order to protect the GoM, Govt. on its part, lays down restrictions too. To

12
 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)
appease the people affected by such restrictions, Gulf of Mannar Bio Reserve Trust (GOMBRT)
offers alternative livelihood opportunities too.
Theoretically one cannot find fault with the
trust‟s effort to protect the Marine Park. The
administration of the trust is carried out by the
Forest Department and one can see that
strategies used to protect forest area get
reflected in their approach. Protection of land
and forest which has a known and visible
boundary is easy by fencing to prevent the
entry of external elements. But how to fence
the see which has no visible boundary.
Demarcation of sea as ours, as international is
not so easy. Even if it be done, can the sea be
saved by vigilant supervision of movement of
people, boating and fishing in the sea? No.
15. Need for new understanding.
Protection of sea and sea life depends largely
on a clear understanding of the close
relationship between sea waters and its banks
(beaches). They are like lovers, no matter who
is the male and who is the female. But one can
see that these lovers are kissing gently, at
times making violent intercourse and embrace
with one another. GoM is a place where the
sea and beach are engaged in everlasting
embrace.
The sea and the beach are eternal lovers. Their
gentle caress, their loving hug, their sweat
kisses and their talk of sweet nothing
transform the hue and figure of both-sea as
well as beach.
There are tharavais along the length of GOM.
These tharavai s secret and ooze out manna
like dew (nectar) into GoM and that gives the
uniqueness for GoM as a bowel of
biodiversity.
How water will become nectar? If it not
universal every where? But people have their own logic to justify their belief.
Mapping for social change.
Maps play an important role in planning and
development of a nation. As a child recognizes
its own parents by way of introduction, we also
recognize the world in which we live, our country
and area only through maps. Our understanding
of and belief in various continents, countries,
and cities is widened by a look at the maps.
Maps in a way simplify our learning process. It is
said that the success of British Governance in
India was mainly due to the maps. Cartography
enabled even an ordinary British official to have
a better understanding about India than any of
the Indian national leaders.
After deciding to know more about tharavai, PAD
decided to get maps. But the maps we got were
of no use for us. Meticulous maps are created
for each and every inch of the land and
somehow the system created an aura around
maps and guarded under tight security. It is
accessible only to the “recognized and reliable
researchers”. NGOs are not in the list of
“recognized and reliable researchers”. The
restriction to access maps made PAD to
generate its own maps for its own use
In the meantime PAD learnt the use of GPS that
too from the fisherman and adopted it to make
participatory exercises (i.e. social maps, resource
maps) as a pleasant experience.
PAD slowly developed the capacity of its staffs to
use GPS and developing from it GIS maps to
facilitate participation both in the rural and
urban areas. PAD‟s initiative in generating GIS
maps greatly helped to improve the staff and
organizations efficiency to better understand the
working area. PAD is convinced that mapping
can be used as a powerful tool for social
transformation and empowerment.
Faith and involvement in generating maps thus
made PAD to undertake a GPS survey of one of
the tharavai, extending over 28 kms length and
7.9 sq.kms. PAD learnt many things not from the
government maps but from the map generated
by its own staffs and that will be used as a tool
for social mobilization in the immediate future.
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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

Humans are alike to look at. They are of the same flesh and blood. Yet they differ in every aspect
– color, creed, characteristic etc. Some are white, some are brown, some are black… some are
tall some are dwarfish…some are lean, some are obese. The same principle is applicable to water
too. The waters of tank, lake, river, falls, streams, sea are endowed with totally different
characteristics. So as tharavai water has unique features.

Take winds…you can measure it velocity. Scientists have invented equipments to measure wind
velocity. But there are many different types of winds with same velocity. Winds along with its
velocity also bring fortune and misfortune. Do we have instruments to measure it? As human
beings yearn for a breeze in the peak of summer, fishes also enjoy certain type of winds. It is the
winds and their qualities that make fishes come together in large numbers.

Basically there is no difference in the water of Ganges and that of Courtallam falls. But people
believe that a dip in the Ganges would absolve them of their sins. Courtallam water is believed to
cure the deranged mind and relax the aching body. Tens of thousands of people visit Courtallam
every season just to enjoy the relaxed feeling. Tank water attached to certain temples is
considered holy as it is supposed to possess miraculous powers of relieving the women devotees
of their bareness and some other tank waters are believed to cure the mentally ill. Thus different
beliefs and different faiths make water different though it is basically one and the same.
Water in different regions have different quality. Water in Tirunelveli is best used in the
preparation of sweet halwa; water is Sattur is used in the preparation of Seku, a savoir, water in
Manapparai gives the best of murukku, an another savoir. While of Madurai water is suited to
dye the sungadi saress. Attemp to put it to different use will bear no fruit. So is taravai water. It
oozes life generating nectar.

They just compared the tharavai with the life of a woman to convince their point. A young girl
becomes a bride; then a mother; then a mother in law; finally granny. Water originated elsewhere
comes to tharavai as the young bride comes to her in-laws. Its quality is different at that time.
When its seep through the land it becomes different and when it seeps into the GoM, it becomes
entirely different, it becomes nectar, manna – like a girl becomes a mother and grandma. If Gulf
of Mannar is a bio–diversity hot spot, tharavai is largely, not solely responsible for it. Protection
of Gulf of Mannar, by ignoring the role of tharavai in making it as a biodiversity hot spot, is like
an arrogant doctor decides to save a baby by putting it in an incubator. The breast may be
unattractive. But it is the milk that secret from it is finally save the baby. It is not?

Based on certain misconception, that tharavais are waste land, the policy makers in order to add
value, to the barren land permitted to convert it as salt pans. It is like a woman resorting to
artificial means to enlarge her breasts to make it attractive. The breast thus enlarged may look
attractive, but it does challenge the very purpose for which it created. Attractiveness is secondary
while milking is the first and foremost function of the breast. If and when it fails in its primary
duty there is no use in its being attractive. Similarly, the increase in market value of tharavai by
converting it into salt pans as allowed by the Govt. would definitely decrease its true value, for
tharavais true value is not measured in terms of money but its utility in energizing the
environment.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

Safe guarding of Gulf of Mannar is possible only through rejuvenating tharavai. There is no
other way is available.

16. People & Fake doctors.

When we shared people‟s opinion with the resource persons (experts) who visited PAD to train
its staff, they ignored it as hype, exaggerated, not a reality.

The way the experts ignored, set aside the
people‟s faith, made some of the staff
members to argue with them. They argued
that, people never claimed that there is a gold
mine underneath the tharavais, nor did
anyone call tharavai water is a panacea for
illness. No one claimed that tharavai water
had the power of increasing the milk yield of
the cattle, which drunk it. Likening tharavai
water to manna-dew (nectar) need not be
taken literally but metaphorically. It is but
colloquial. It is the usual way of putting
things by the people.
One of the staff when he encountered an
expert with a pertinent question, “if the day
to day experiences are disregarded and
disrespected on the ground of being
exaggerated, what value do you attach to the
real life experiences?. For this question, the
expert answered that, „everyday, all TVs
invariably air tall claims of fake doctors on
their efficiency and their assurance about
herbal cure to even incurable diseases. The
expert‟s comparison of people‟s beliefs with
that of a fake doctor, angered the staff and
one reacted suddenly that he is ashamed of
trained by an expert who is incapable of
distinguishing between the genuine
sentiments of simple natives and oratorically
efficient quacks. But it is a regrettable fact
that the majority of us, like these experts, are
unable to distinguish between plain spoken
truth and high sounding words of marketing
expert like the fake doctors.
Becoming a Professional
PAD has been continuously conducting training
and awareness programs on various issues.
Availability of funds made it possible for us to
utilize the services of subject matter experts and
scholars as resource persons. Once a renowned
academician from an university of repute had
been invited as a resource person to talk about
coral reef eco system. His sessions exhibited his
erudite scholarship and mastery over the subject
and drew the attention and admiration of the
participants; all of them were grass root workers.
One of the PAD worker, only school educated,
yet he was known for his native wisdom was all
praise for the scholar and said to him, Sir! Your
session was so interesting and informative. The
fishermen of this area used to share with us a lot
of information which always surprise us. If we
ask them „how did you know this? they simply
reply, „we learnt it by listening and talking with
the sea‟. Your lecture proved that like the
fisherman in our area, who used to converse
with the sea and fishes, you also seem have
conversed with the coral reefs. Otherwise it is
impossible to give such an interesting lecture.
The scholar acknowledged the appreciation with
a broad smile and replied, No brother! I have
never seen coral reefs in my life. I have agreed
to come here in order to see it.
Quickly retorted the staff, if you have not seen
for it so far but developed such an intimacy
towards it, then you are the modern
Pisiraanthaiyaar ( a great Tamil poet in the
historical past, known for his love and friendship
with a king, both of them have never seen one
another, but developed love with one another to
the extent of sacrificing their life for one
another), and don‟t follow his footsteps of fasting
unto death for the sake of friendship.

17. Causes for deterioration.

There may be very many causes for the neglect and decay of tharavais in Gulf of Mannar. But
the chief causes for the neglect of the tharavais of GoM are its geographical location and the

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

learning disability of the educated (experts, policy makers, bureaucrats and politicians).
Geographically, these tharavais are not located on the highways. Travel to this region from
Madurai, Ramnad or Tuticorin is neither easy nor pleasurable. Above all, it is the backward area
which is generally considered as punishment area for the government employees. Even after six
long decades of independence, the area still remains underdeveloped. When the whole of
Ramnad district was totally neglected for several decades, how could these tharavais attract the
attention of the authorities concerned?

Public Works Departments (PWD) which is responsible to manage the water bodies seems too
little aware about the water body / wet land like tharavai. PWD‟s conception of water resources
is restricted to rivers, lakes, tanks, streams which have visible banks, inlets and outlets. Tharavais
doesn‟t fit into their understanding. But if the financial institutions like World Bank ready to
offer assistance for rainwater harvesting and for construction of percolation ponds, they will
leave no stone unturned in that effort. If you tell them tharavais are functioning like percolation
ponds, they won‟t accept the fact. How can they digest that nature can excel where engineering
could not.

If PWD errs in one way, Gulf of Mannar Bio Reserve Trust errs in different way. Protection and
preservation of coral reefs, safeguarding the engendered sea life from extinction seem to occupy
their mind. Hence, they try to save sea at the cost of people‟s livelihood, who depend largely
upon the marine resources for their survival. The idea of conservation eclipses the awareness of
their livelihood. They tolerate people in the coastal area especially the fishing community not
because they respect them, but for the fear that with the increased awareness about the livelihood
security and human rights in general, they may be question at the national and international
forums. That is why they remain passive.

It is a pity that the poor fisherman fishing in the sea for their livelihood and the hunters of
wildlife for positive or gains are weighed on the same scale. The organizations, they mooted to
elicit peoples participation and the various types of training they offer are passive and devoid of
life.

The fisheries department which virtually has no hold or control over sea, but empowered to bring
meaning in the life of fisherman, is neither interested in protecting the marine eco system nor
take interest in sustainable fishing. They are satisfied with the quantitative details of fishing
activity. The same fisheries department which operates fisheries development programme for
inland fisherman has initiated fish culture in fresh water bodies covering even one to two
hectares. In the name of inland fisheries development, what they have achieved is to dry even the
dead storage level of water in the water bodies and created conflict and confusion. The irony is
that, those who take so much interest of negligibly small water spread areas miserably fail to
understand and appreciate the significance of tharavais which is spread over hundreds and
thousands of hectares with various kinds of fishes in its belly which can definitely ensure
livelihood to thousands of people. To put in a nut shell, the tharavais of the GoM is a forgotten,
neglected rather than cursed resource, ironically by the same people who are supposed to take
care of and protect them.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

18. Is it the end?

It is the end of the road for tharavai s in GOM. No it is an emphatic no for none has the ability or
power to destroy it totally. Its geographical location shields it from total destruction. The futility
of the efforts to convert them into saltpans has protected them from becoming saltpans. The

abortive attempt to create prawn farms has discouraged many to do so. Encroachment for
agrarian purposes is also not extensive as the farmers of this area have lost faith in agriculture
which has now a day‟s become almost a gamble.

The traditional threats to tharavai- converting it into saltpans, prawn farms, agricultural lands and
construction of buildings are not as great at present. But there is another threat which is posed by
the acquisition of land on the coastal areas by mineral companies. Besides this there may arise
new threats in future which may prove more realistic and dangerous.

Whatever it may be, the decay and destruction of tharavai will certainly put an end to the age old
glory of Gulf of Mannar. What if? It will prove a blessing in disguise to the scheming politicians
and bureaucrats who find money in everything. Under the pretext of protecting the GoM, they
may invite international tenders for the construction of compound wall around the Gulf and thus
mint money. Citing the security reasons, they may change the guard from the Forest Department
to the armed forces, which in turn would pave way for aerial surveillance. Movement of
fisherman and boats may be forbidden. When the responsibility of security falls on the shoulders
of army, it adds glory to the already glorious Gulf of Mannar. Tamilians both in India and
Srilanka may feel elated to find the only sea which bears Tamil name is well protected by the
unconquerable armed forces. Let us all welcome and enjoy that golden moment.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

19. Growing hair on a bald head

There is no use in brooding over the split milk. The deterioration and decay of tharavai instead of
making us passive and pensive should make us active to explore new avenues, for old order
change yielding place to new. It is not, seeking greener pastures better than wasting time in
rejuvenation of the forgotten and cursed tharavais.

It is not necessary that once useful things should always be useful. Radios and transistors which
were so useful in the earlier decades have vanished totally and audiocassettes have been replaced
by CDs and DVDs. After being accustomed to live in a tharavai free environment, there is no use
in wasting our time recollecting the past glory? The present day tharavai is but a shrunken genital
or a dried and emptied breast.

When we said like above, what we exactly expected from small group of Presidents of Village
Panchayats with whom we arranged an interaction session that they also agree to leave the issue.
Literally they have given a flow on our face with their carefully worded reaction. It is our wish
that policy makers should also face similar experiences in order to introspect.

One of the President retorted, “no doubt tharavai is now a shrunken genital, dried and emptied
breast. Are there not celebrities in the political and cine field who are more than 20 years senior
to me and are glorified for their youthfulness? Are they not mortals like us? Are their organs
made of metal to function unfailingly and unendingly?

Our tharavai is as old as the Ganges and the Cauvery. Can you accept that these resources are
also shrunken? Even if it is shrunken, you are trying to stretch it out to various places. If any
problem in those waters immediately causes uproar. The nation or the region concerned stands
united together to find a solution or for the rejuvenation. Why not the precept that „everything is
equal‟ is applicable to tharavai also? Religious, regional and linguistics spirits are kindled in the
fight to save Ganges, Cauvery and Vaigai, while a step motherly treatment is meted out to our
tharavais, which are chief source of livelihood for thousands of people?

Theirs was not an angry outburst. With a smile on their wrinkled faces, they spoke in such a way
which however did not hurt us. Nor was there any sign of self pity too. Their expressions in a
way reflected human rights, livelihood security, and favoritism shown between regions and
misplaced priorities. Given a choice, they express their arguments in such a way to excel those of
self styled politicians or social activists.

Their refrain from fighting for their rights or for the rejuvenation of tharavai does not mean that
they are cowardly or they are unaware of the significance of tharavai. They are wise enough not
to indulge in the foolish act of growing hair on a bald head or digging a well in the deep desert.

20. Rejuvenation of tharavai – a wise Act.

In the Gulf of Mannar there are three big tharavais spreads over thousands of hectares. Yet our
discussion is about one tharavai which originates in Mookaiyoor and reaches Periyasamipuram
through Vembar. It we take note of the villages benefited from tharavai when it was in good
condition, it enriched ground water 10 to 12 times of its own area.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

A recent GPS survey undertaken by PAD reveals a strikingly strange fact that the present day
tharavai, despite encroachment and deterioration still spread to 750 hectares. If we properly
maintain this left out tharavai, it would definitely recharge the ground water potential of 7000 to
8000 hectares which in turn give a flip to agriculture and animal husbandry in the area.
Recharging of ground water through other means would require billions of rupees, but achieving
the name by regenerating tharavai could be completed at lesser cost.

Thus rehabilitation of tharavai is both logically and wise activity.

21. Terminological revolution:

According to census if India, while almost all the villages in the country show an upward trend in
population growth. But the opposite is experienced in Kadaladi union where two major tharavais
are located in thousands of hectares. There is a gradual decline of population in every year. The
decline of population in the areas surrounding tharavai is quite shocking. It is certainly not zero
population growth that will make the policy makers to be happy. It is worse. Many a village
seems to disappear totally. How to explain the situation?

The bitter experience of one of PAD staff, forbids us to use the term „migration‟ as the cause of
dwindling population. The said staff was deputed to assist a research scholar from one of the
university in India, whose research topic was „migration in coastal villages‟. The researcher
introduced himself to the villagers and explained his purpose of visit. A villager pointed out,‟ sir!
be not euphemist. It is not migration, but escapade form famine and penury. Migration may
better used in your case, but for us it is entirely different. In our case it is for survival – hence
escapade form famine, not migration – is the most appropriate expression‟. The researcher was
shocked that he felt thunder struck.

As the scholar did, we deliberately avoid the word famine and use euphemism to mask the
deplorable conditions of life caused by famine. The continuous mistakes that we make (either in
policy making or implementation or both) may not affect us, but certainly affect the common
man and we coin new words to mask the untold suffering of the masses caused by our erroneous
planning and execution. But we claim ourselves that we are concerned about the people. Just as
revolutionaries concerned about people, we do certain things, inventing new terminologies that
mask the severity of the problem and satisfy ourselves that we have addressed the problem. We
are content with terminological revolution.

1
Associate Professor, Madurai Institute of Social Sciences, teaching Social Work and
Community Development, Hon.Secretary, People‟s Action for Development.
(http://cdmissmdu.blogspot.com/, http://cdmiss.wordpress.com/, srengasamy@gmail.com).The
author acknowledges the help extended by Dr.Huda Khan, Professor of English (Rtd), Wakf
Board College, Madurai, in making the English version from the Tamil version. The author also
acknowledges the support and help extended by Dr.Pavendar, Associate Professor of Geography,
Govt Arts College, Coimbatore & Dr. Gladwin, Asst.Prof. Aditanaar College of Technology,
Tiruchendur for their help in drawing maps and enabling PAD staff to learn GPS & GIS.

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 S.Rengasamy –Tharavais (Wetlands of Gulf of Mannar)

2
Mr.Rajendra Prasad (prasadrajen@gmail.com, padgom@gmail.com,) established People‟s
Action for Development (PAD) in the year 2002. He is the Executive Director of PAD. Before
starting PAD he served in development NGOs in various capacities. PAD at present is
functioning from three field offices (Vembar, Keelakarai, Rameshwaram) having 60 staff
including field workers.
3
Sri. Aathilingam, President Vembar (North) Panchayat. There are more than 35 people to be
quoted for their statements. Besides this, the author used the field notes of several staff members.
The author acknowledges the sharing of experiences by Mr. Bernard (Thangam), Programme
Coordinator and other staff of PAD especially Messers Bima Raj, Dr. Balasubramanian, Dr.
Mannar Mannan, Pown, Prabhakar. Besides the PAD staff, Er. R. Venkatasamy (Chief Engineer
Agri.Engineering Dept, (Rtd), and now working as a consultant in Dhan Foundation, Madurai,
Mr. Balamurugan (Save the Children) and Dr. Ragupathy (Gandhigram Rural University)
comments on Tamil version improved the presentation of this English version. Special thanks to
Ravi Varadaraj Tamil Scholar and Etymologist, who helped me to get more clarity on the
meaning of tharavai

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