Bucharest

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
BUCHAREST
October - November 2013
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
In Lenins Shoes
How contemporary art took

the place of a revolutionary
Old Town Bucharest

A look at Bucharests most
vibrant entertainment district
Lesser Visited
Bucharest
The parts of Bucharest lesser

city guides never reach
N85 - 15.00 lei

bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Restaurants
3
40
Where to eat
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Nightlife 62
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like
Contents
Sightseeing
Bucharest Basics
6
Everything you always wanted to know about Bucharest and Romania, but were afraid to ask
Arrival & Transport
11
What to see
Where to spend your days
65
Old Town / Lipscani
74
The heart and soul of the city
Navigating Bucharest
Shopping
Culture & Events
Where to buy your souvenirs
16
Including Hurts & Tom Jones
Directory
In Lenins Shoes
22
How contemporary art filled a revolutionary breach
Romanian Alcohol
26
Know your tuica from your palinca
Where to Stay
From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps
88
28
90
Everything you need including foreign

embassies, pharmacies and dentists.
Maps & Street Register

Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
Street Register & Hotel Map Index
94
96
98
The Gaze, by Antonio Vega and Chantal Penalosa, one of 17 works of contemporary art that has made use of the plinth in
front of Casa Scanteii on which - until 1990 - stood an enormous statue of Lenin. More on pages 22-23.
Foreword
This is traditionally the time of year when Bucharest
knuckles down to some seriously hard work, and
some equally serious partying. With terraces and
the long hot summer a distant memory the city
moves inside and, quite often, underground in
order to eat, drink and generally have a good time.
This is also the busiest concert season of the
year: take a look at our Events Listings on pages
16-21 for details of who is playing Bucharest this
autumn. Art lovers might like to take a look at
our feature on the plinth which once supported
Bucharests Lenin statue (see pages 22-23),
while the more adventurous or jaded visitor might
fancy a trip out to one of Bucharests lesser
visited neighbourhoods: we feature two of them,
Bucurestii Noi and Titan, on pages 26-27. Oh, and
given that its party season, we even have a guide
to Romanian alcohol on pages 24-25.
We love to hear from our readers: maybe you
disagree with us, or maybe you think we have left
out a venue or attraction that really should be
included. Whatever you think, drop us a line at:
editor@inyourpocket.com.
Cover story
Jars of honey on sale at a market in
Bucharest. Romania produces more
than 22,000 tons of honey each year,
of which more than half is exported.
In 2012 these exports were worth
more than 35 million. Photo Andrei
Moldovan/Dreamstime.com
Bucharest In Your Pocket

Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3
Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8
014191 Bucuresti, Romania
Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced
each issue. Bucharest In Your Pocket is a member
of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT).
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp Photography IYP Romania Srl unless
otherwise stated. Cover photo Andrei Moldovan/
Dreamstime.com Metro map by Maximilian Turp-Balazs
from an idea by Alexander Sirbu.
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Bucharest Basics
Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one

of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is
rare and almost always carried out exclusively between
rival gangs fighting for the control of territory in the citys
less-salubrious areas.
If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you
getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere
(you should be particularly careful on crowded buses, and
always watch your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty thieves
are by and large a cowardly lot in Romania and will run a mile
at the first sign of any resistance. Knife-crime is unheard of,
and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night in
relative safety.
The Romanian police force is also far better and less
corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on
the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town
at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul
Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and
Piata Victoriei.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of
them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense
and all will be well.
Customs Regulations
While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007,

which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement
of goods between member countries, United Kingdom
customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such you
are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes purchased
in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged to point out,
however, that you will be passing through the blue channel
on arrival in the UK and the chances of being stopped are
almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere in the EU, there
are no limits on the amount of cigarettes you can bring home
from Romania.
Alcohol is likewise unrestricted. For those of you travelling
outside of the EU when leaving Romania, you should check
the import limits on fags and booze with your destination
country before travelling. The export of some antiques
purchased in Romania (especially old religious icons) is
subject to the completion of tedious paperwork, although
any reputable antiques store or dealer will be able to take
care of this for you. Ask when buying if you are not sure.
When Things Go Wrong

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city
code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll
be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call
centre operators should speak English or French but in our
experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you
know the name of the street you are calling from.
If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call
your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The citys main
police station is the new building at (B-4) Str. Lascar
Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the
city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8,
next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box
on page 7, opposite. There is a list of Pharmacies on
page 93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.
bucharestbasics
Basics
Bucharest
A brief history of Bucharest (1)
A brief history of Bucharest (2)
While there are traces of settlements around Bucharest

dating back to the Paleolithic period, the city itself is in
fact relatively new: mention of it is not made until 1459,
as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler
of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur,
founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu
Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia
from c. 1290-1300.
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada

Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given
that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same
man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the
Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania.
Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require
another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was officially able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878.
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real
size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian
court. This was based in what is today known as the Old
Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked
for the first time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler Stephen
the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in
1554. During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks
in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei
Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and
the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the
Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine
for much of the rest of the 1600s.
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharests
fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the
Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was
during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style (a mix of the
Renaissance and the Byzantine) so popular with the citys
architects for centuries after first appeared.
The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714:
ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was
beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting local
Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks
instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators
to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they
came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar)
they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this
time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular
disasters: both natural and man-made. The Austrian
army occupied the city from 1789-91, there were major
earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague
returned in 1813-14. As many as 40,000 people died in
Wallachia during the plague.
While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of
Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9
left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed
to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened
man and a moderniser who during his 14 years in charge
of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He
carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kiseleff,
today carries his name), paved many roads, introduced
running water and a sewerage system, did the citys first
proper census, built schools and hospitals and centralised the citys chaotic fire-fighting service.
Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of

Carol I (1866-1914), Romanias first king. Electricity was
introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World, in 1906, designed to show
how much progress the country was making. The Carol
Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair.
During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of
Europes most dynamic cities, and architecturally one
of its most avant-garde. Large numbers of art deco
buildings were constructed around the city. The Lido and
Ambassador hotels on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as
the Telephone Palace on Calea Victoriei are just three
examples of this new wave.
The Bucharest we know today, however, is as much the
product of the communist period, from 1944 to 1989,
as anything. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the
latter part of World War II (the old national theatre, which
stood on Calea Victoriei, was one victim of this bombing)
but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities therefore
initially made their mark on the city not by changing it but
by greatly extending it. The first major project was the
district of Bucurestii Noi, constructed at the beginning
of the 1950s (see page 24). It was followed by the vast
housing estates of Militari and Titan, huge dormitories
for workers shipped in from the countryside to staff the
newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor, Republica and IMGB. The citys population doubled from
900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million by 1980.
In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history killed
more than 1,500 people. The countrys best-loved actor,
Toma Caragiu, was amongst those killed. Many buildings
were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to
remodel the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a third
of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the
new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa
Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului.
Construction on the Centru Civic began in 1984, and
some parts remain incomplete today, lost in limbo. The
enormous Casa Radio (A-5) on Strada Stirbei Voda is
one such building.
Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting during
the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred
on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport.
Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow,
although much of that growth has been outside the city
limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked
in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9
million (2011 census).
Dogs
It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucharest

without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue, some
14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. According
to a census carried out by the city council last year there are
still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharests streets
(64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority are found
outside of the city centre. There are still some packs of dogs
in the city centre (Old Town has its fair share of strays) but
these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the
citys suburbs. However, the number of people being bitten
each year in the city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000
people were bitten by Bucharests strays, an increase of
more than 30 per cent on 2011. Despite this, there appears
to be little real urgency about any of the efforts being made
to eradicate the problem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes
the city council has washed its hands of the issue. Add in
the fact that a large and vociferous minority of Bucharests
citizens actually want the dogs to remain on the streets and it
becomes clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime
soon. There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights
NGOs which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs.
All of these factors combined to tragic ef fect in
September 2013, when a four-year-old boy was killed by
a pack of strays on some waste ground next to a park in
northern Bucharest. This awful incident (the boy is the third
person to be killed by strays in the Romanian capital over
the past few years) immediately prompted the authorities
to pass new legislation designed to eradicate dogs from
Romanias streets once and for all. It remains to be seen,
however, if local councils - including that in Bucharest - will
act upon it.
Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten
during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the
casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei
Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021
318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be
administered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine
(the anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the
others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards).
You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.
Time & People

Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT +
2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population of Romania is 19,042,936, and of Bucharest 1.7
million according to figures from the 2011 census.
Health
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than
adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a
lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei
notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner
is recommended. In an emergency you should call tel.
112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance. The best
state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta, C-3,
Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23 00. If your child
becomes ill, you should take him or her to the excellent
childrens emergency hospital, found at (B-4), B-dul
Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. A
list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 93.
bucharest Basics
Market Values
So where am I exactly?
One 1 is currently worth 4.40 lei. A pint of local beer in a

central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (1.80).
A McDonalds Big Mac costs 11 lei (2.49), while a loaf of
plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (0.27). A packet of 20
international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (3.28), and
one litre of standard unleaded petrol 5.94 lei (1.34). A onetrip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of

the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest
is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one
of the three historic principalities which make up the
modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while
Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single
country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form
only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of
Transylvania voted to join in the fun.
The official population of Bucharest is just under two
million people, but as many migrants from the rest of
the country do not bother to register as citizens of the
capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three
million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilometres to the south), the border between Romania and
Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked
by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other
side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a
day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will need a car,
as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the
rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta
and the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway
goes all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be
done in just over two hours. Like most trains in Romania,
the Bucharest - Constanta service is slow and it takes
almost three hours.
To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of
Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian
Mountains, a two hour drive away.
Left Luggage
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage

lockers. You will find the left luggage counter next to the
Relay press store, opposite the Wasteels office, a short
walk from the platforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per
small bag per 24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that
the office keeps irregular hours (with staff taking breaks
seemingly willy-nilly), so always make sure there will be
someone on hand to give you back your bag when you want
to pick it up. There are not currently any left luggage facilities
at Otopeni airport.
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea

to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving
license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves
you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary,
prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your
embassy. There is a list on page 90.
A Word From Bucharests Mayor

I am one of the over two million
inhabitants of Bucharest. This
is where I was born, and where
I grew up. I know both the bright
and dark sides of every nook and
cranny. I have learned the history
of each stone, and experienced
romance while wandering in Herastrau Park or admiring
the city by night.
I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back
home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest
over and over again. I am sure that there would have been
no better place in Romania to build my medical career,
with all the professional and academic opportunities
that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to
give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of
Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this
city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in.
Bucharest is Romanias most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more
than 20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is inhabited
by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All
major financial and political institutions are based here.
As one of 27 - soon to be 28 - European capitals,
Bucharest is eager to share its cultural heritage with the
community and the whole world. I therefore invite you to
explore this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and
take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and
impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetry.
Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
bucharest Basics
Money
Arrival 1: Otopeni
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100

bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5
bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian
money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash,
then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and
debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club
cards are less widely accepted.
Politics
The Romanian political scene has been relatively sensible

this year, but then given how last year saw local elections,
a presidential impeachment referendum and a general
election, it was always likely to be so. The government,
made up of an alliance of the Social Democrats (PSD) and
the Liberals (PNL; together called the Social Liberal Union,
or USL) and led by Victor Ponta, has managed to so far
peacefully coexist with its erstwhile foe, the president Traian
Basescu. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, the USL has
more than 65 per cent of seats in parliament and can pretty
much do what it wants. Secondly, Basescus second term
ends next year, and he cannot run for a third. Unless the USL
splits (not out of the question but unlikely) we expect the
political scene to remain steady until campaigning begins
for the presidential election (the first round of which is to be
held next November).
Toilets
The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara

de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free
portaloos around the city but these should be used only by
the very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonalds
and make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to
some McDonalds toilets in Bucharest is protected with a
four-digit code, which you will get when you buy something.
Taxi Tactics
Bucharests dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal
sense of equal opportunities. Locals, foreigners, young,
old, male, female: anyone who steps in the wrong kind
of taxi can expect to be well and truly buggered. The
important thing to remember when getting into a taxi
in this city is that there are two kinds: those which are
operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (usually
good) and independents (usually bad). The problem is
spotting the difference. By and large, trustworthy taxis
are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name
and phone number of the company they are associated
with. The best way to avoid being ripped off however
is to pay careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on
the driver and passenger door of all taxis. There should
just now be one single tarif displayed, and anything
higher than 1.69 lei per kilometre should start alarm
bells ringing. If you feel something is a bit suspect in
any taxi, note down the drivers number and call his
company to report him.
Some trusted taxi companies:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort

021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Mavi
021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423,
Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi Total
021 9424. Most of these companies have at least
one operator who speaks English.
Moving On
Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring countries is not as easy, quick or inexpensive as you would expect.
Bucharest - Belgrade Tarom flies to Belgrade once a

day, with prices from around 166 return. Incredibly, there is
currently no train service between Bucharest and Belgrade.
Bucharest - Budapest There are three flights from

Bucharest to Budapest each day, all operated by Tarom.
Standard return prices start at around 172, although
you can often find cheaper tickets if you book far enough
in advance. There are also three direct trains connecting
the two cities: the fastest daytime train leaves at 05:45
(arriving in Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves
at 17:40 and arrives at 08:50. The price for a berth in a
sleeping wagon is around 90 (one way), while a bed in a
cuseta (sharing with up to five others) costs around 53.
Again, the best place to buy international train tickets in
Bucharest is Wasteels, at Gara de Nord.
Bucharest - Chisinau There are four flights a day between Bucharest and Chisinau, and if bought far enough
in advance return plane tickets with Tarom can cost as
little as around 122. Air Moldova also fly the same
route, tickets costing slightly more, around 144 return.
The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at
19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 08:52 the
next morning. Tickets cost from around 41 (single).
Bucharest - Kyiv Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes

plenty of patience. Using a flight search-engine such as
skyscanner.com, however, you can now find return flights
for around 220, often via Amsterdam. The train to Kyiv
takes a whopping 27 hours, leaving Bucharest at 06:12,
arriving in Kyiv at 09:18 the following morning. Tickets
cost from around 63 (single).
Bucharest - Sofia Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs
around 180, with either Tarom or Bulgaria Air. There are
two or three flights per day depending on the day of the week.
There are two very slow direct trains per day, one at 12:30
(arriving Sofia 22:00) and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Sofia at 09:25). Single tickets cost from 59. Much
cheaper (and quicker) is the daily coach linking Bucharest and
Sofia. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul
Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Sofia just under
seven hours later. Tickets cost 100 lei and can be bought
direct from the driver or online at www.etapgroup.com.
Bucharests only commercial airport is now Otopeni

(officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the
DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. Baneasa Airport - until recently
the citys low-cost hub - closed its doors to airlines in
March 2012.
After getting off the plane and easing your way through
passport control, youll find yourself in the baggage reclaim
area. Ignore all of the services on offer here. You should
especially ignore the currency exchange desks: they do
not offer decent rates. Instead, grab your luggage, which
usually arrives promptly (if it fails to arrive head for the
small office on the right hand of side of the exit, where
staff will help you find out where it might have gone), and
then its off through customs to the arrivals area.
Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and
a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the
departures terminal: the passage is lined with car hire
desks and a few shops, including a chemist.
To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the
arrivals hall. They are fully automated and very easy to
use (and offer multiple-language options), and you can
choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest
taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed.
Once the taxi company of your choice has informed
you (via the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive,
and what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to
wait for your taxi. Just make sure you get into the correct
taxi: check the company name and ID number. While most
of the rip-off taxis of yore have now gone, there are still
sometimes touts hassling visitors inside the arrivals hall:
ignore them.
For those who want to head into town in a bit more
comfort than your average visitor, a good option is TransVision, who offer airport transfers in a fleet of smart
vehicles from as little as 5 per person. Call (+4) 755 05
26 21 or go to visit their website, www.airport-transferbucharest.com.
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops
underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and
leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata
Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the
day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full
timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus,
the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15
to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes.
You need to purchase an Activ Card before boarding
(get it from the little booth which youll find on your right
hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city and
back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no
time limit on using the return). You also need to pay 3.70 lei
for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you
like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with as much credit
as you wish, and used on all Bucharest buses, trams and
the metro. These cards cannot be bought on board.
There is also a train which connects the airport to the
main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at
irregular and infrequent intervals, however, and to get to
the airports station you need to take a minibus. We do
not recommend it. Timetables and tickets are available
from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete
CFR sign.
11
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Public transport
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by
bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city centre
benefit from three or four different bus routes. Most buses
are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them is a less
than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams
run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around
23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night buses take
over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an
hourly service throughout the night. All night buses depart
from Piata Unirii.
Public Transport Tickets
To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an

Activ Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70
lei, are valid on all forms of public transport (including the
metro) and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major
stops. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei,
maximum 50 lei) and are reusable: you can reload them
as many times as needs be. The card is then debited each
time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on
buses, trams and trolleybuses, or at the entrance to the
metro. One trip by surface transport costs 1.30 lei, a metro
trip costs 2.00 lei.
You can now also buy joint bus and metro tickets, valid
not just for one or two journeys but for an unlimited number
of journeys over a designated period of time. A 60-minute
RATB (bus, tram, trolleybus) and metro ticket costs 5 lei, while
a 24-hour ticket (abonament de o zi) costs 16 lei. Tickets
are valid from the moment they are electronically franked on
a bus or at a metro station, and must be franked at the start
of each journey. Also - and this is a bonus - they are valid until
the end of the last journey you make. So if you get on a bus
or metro one minute before your ticket expires, you can still
Arrival 2: Gara de Nord

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara
de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues,
tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,
shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has
free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from outside
(beware sharks) or take the metro: you are just one stop
away from Piata Victoriei. To get to the airport from Gara
de Nord, take bus 780.
WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels
send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains.
Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off
the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be
approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert
you from your intended destination (often by saying that
the place you want to go to is closed) towards another
hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore
anything they say and wave them away.
complete your journey without being fined.
On all forms of public transport children under the age
of seven travel free. After that age they need a full-price
ticket.
Metro
Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the

vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to
the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and
Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan
working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city
centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south
M2 line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas
Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Train Schedule
Tourist Information
From Bucharest
To Bucharest
Dep
Arr.
Dep. Arr.
IR 23:45 10:39
ARAD
IR 18:53 05:43
IR 05:45 08:28
BRASOV
IR 06:01 08:47
IC 13:10 15:36
BRASOV
IR 09:23 12:00
IC 15:30 18:08
BRASOV
ICN 09:40 12:10
ICN 17:40 20:09
BRASOV
IR 17:10 19:48
IR 18:30 21:09
BRASOV
IC 20:40 23:05
IR 20:30 06:07 CLUJ-NAPOCA IR 23:28 08:47
IR 08:30 11:25 CONSTANTA IR 13:30 16:10
IR 14:00 16:35 CONSTANTA IR 17:20 20:00
IR 12:45 15:43
CRAIOVA
IR 19:32 22:27
IR 13:40 17:34
GALATI
IR 09:25 13:18
IR 12:00 18:58
IASI
IR 14:20 21:30
IR 23:00 05:53
IASI
IR 23:30 06:30
IC 13:10 01:05
ORADEA
IC 11:30 23:05
IR 21:20 11:13 SATU MARE IR 16:37 06:13
IR 15:30 21:04
SIBIU
IR 15:30 21:14
IC 13:10 18:01 SIGHISOARA IC 18:22 23:05
IR 11:10 19:25 TIRGU MURES IR 13:12 21:40
IR 10:45 19:15 TIMISOARA IR 07:15 16:30
IR 12:45 21:11 TIMISOARA IR 14:10 22:27
Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Underpass,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large, spacious,

official tourist information centre. Stocks copies of our guides.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. An
unofficial yet very good tourist information point is operated
out of the Rembrandt Hotel (C-6; see page 36).
Car Rental
All of the major international car hire firms are present in

Bucharest, alongside a number of local outfits. You usually
need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have
held a license for at least couple of years.
Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN
(One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4)
021 210 69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. A
delivery and collection service is available free of charge within
the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on
the availability of the Avis rental office. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021
314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International
Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and
Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Schedule checked September 30, 2013. The full Romanian

railway timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.
Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as

cheap as for the trams and buses: they cost either 4 lei (valid for
two trips; doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii)
and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy
tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The
metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.
Trains
Given that Romanias roads are so bad, its comforting to know
that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that,
many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest - Brasov
and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now approaching completion, and journey times are more or less back to something
approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours to Brasov,
slightly more to Constanta. Always try to get an InterCity (IC)
or InterRegio (IR) train as they are the fastest and usually
have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains (which
until recently were known as Personal), are slow and use much
older rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN:
these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than
usual, and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types of
train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult
single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei.
Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are two

per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau and Kyiv. To
buy train tickets, visit either the station, the CFR agency we list
below or buy online at www.cfr.ro/calatori. Your best bet for
the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the station.
In all cases, do not leave buying tickets to the last minute: long
queues could mean you miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on the train, though in the worst case scenario you can
try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually.
Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR A-4, Calea Grivitei 139,
tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. CFRs advance
booking office. Reservations for all kinds of trains. Q Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wasteels A-4, Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03 70/021
300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reservations for all types
of trains, national and international. Helpful staff, western currencies
accepted. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22

28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.bavariarent.ro. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00,
Sat 08:00-20:00.
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.ro,

www.budgetro.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel),
tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun
and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16
67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),

tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax
(+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.
cars4rent.ro. Good car hire from the people behind the
Charter Hotel. Q Open 24 hrs.
Compact Rent-a-Car A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7,
sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021
312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, office@compactrentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Q Prices from
18/day.
Europcar D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310
17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@europcar.com.ro, www.europcar.ro. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40,
Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta,
Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.
Hertz A-1, Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, of-
fice 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz.

ro, www.hertz.ro. Q Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4)
021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro,

www.sixt.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
15
16
CULTURE & Events

Bucharest In Your Pocket offers the widest selection of
concerts, events, club nights and exhibitions in Bucharest.
We in general welcome submissions, so if you have an
event you want to publicise, however big or small, you
can do so here: absolutely free. We will also include it on
our website. Send details of your event to bucharest@
inyourpocket.com.
Rock & Pop Concerts

10.10 Thursday Taxi
A-2, Hard Rock Cafe. Taxi - who have been around for 20
years or so - are one of Romanias best rock bands, mixing
good tunes with not a little social comment. Well worth seeing,
especially in a more intimate venue like the HRC. Q Starts
21:00. Tickets 60-80 lei from iabilet.ro or from the Hard
Rock Cafe direct.
11.10 Friday Hurts
Romexpo. Hurts are an English synthpop duo formed in

2009, consisting of singer Theo Hutchcraft and synth player
Adam Anderson. Their first two albums, Happiness and
Exile, both reached the top ten in the United Kingdom. This
is their second visit to Romania in little over a year. Q Starts
20:00. Tickets 120-140 lei from bilete.ro, eventim.ro and
Eventim partner outlets, including the Sala Palatului box
office and the Humanitas bookstore at Calea Victoriei 45.
11.10 Friday Rednex
A-2, Hard Rock Cafe, www.hardrockcafe.com/bucharest. Swedish techno/folk/bluegrass band, best known for
their novelty hit with a cover version of the song Cotton Eye
Joe in 1994. Very popular in Germany, where they hold the
record of total weeks (25) at number one on the German
singles chart over the past 30 years. Q Starts 22:00. Tickets 60-400 lei from bilete.ro or from the Hard Rock Cafe.
13.10 Sunday Chris Norman
B-5, Sala Palatului. English rock singer best known as the

lead-singer of the Bradford band Smokie. Huge in Germany,
Norman has also found a loyal public here in Romania, a
country he has performed in a number of times over the past
few years. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 80-250 lei from bilete.ro
or the Sala Palatului box office.
15.10 Tuesday Pink Martini
B-5, Sala Palatului. Formed by pianist Thomas Lauderdale

in Portland, Oregon. Pink Martini describe themselves as a
little orchestra; its music crosses classical, Latin, jazz and
classic pop. The lead vocalist and principal songwriter is China
Forbes. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 110-200 lei from eventim.
ro or Eventim partner stores around Bucharest.
16.10 Wednesday Belinda Carlisle
B-5, Sala Palatului. Former Go-Gossinger whose biggest

success probably came as a solo artist with hits including
La Luna, Heaven is a Place in Earth and I Get Weak. An
eighties revival night if ever we saw one. Q Starts 20:00.
Tickets 75-300 lei from eventim.ro or from Eventim partner
stores around Bucharest.
20.10 Sunday Queensryche
Turbohalle (B-dul Iuliu Maniu 220B), M Pacii.

Queensrche are an American progressive heavy metal
band formed in 1982 in Bellevue, Washington. The band has
released twelve studio albums, one EP and several DVDs, and
continues to tour and record. The original lineup consisted
of vocalist Geoff Tate, guitarists Chris DeGarmo and Michael
Wilton, bassist Eddie Jackson and drummer Scott Rockenfield. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 89-250 lei from eventim.ro or
from Eventim partner stores around Bucharest.
Venues & Tickets

Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, (+4) 021

315 68 75 for tickets, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00.
Closed Mon. Tickets from 8.00 lei to 34.00 lei.
Diverta Music & Film C-6, Piata Unirii (Unirea Shop-
ping Centre), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 805 65 33,

www.diverta.net. Sells tickets for most Bucharest concerts and events. The most central branch is on the third
floor of Unirea Shopping Centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, www.hardrock.

com/bucharest. The home of the best burger in Bucharest doubles up as one of the citys top live music venues.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
Romanian National Opera (ONB) (Opera Nationala Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb.

ro.Q Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open
Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5, Str. Berthelot
60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, www.srr.ro. The

National Radio Orchestra is one of the best in the country
and happens to have its very own 1950s socialist-looking
music hall in the radio building. Q Box office open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The box office remains open until
20:00 on concert evenings.
Cinemas
Bucharest has plenty of good cinemas. Films in Romania are shown in their original language with Romanian
subtitles. The exceptions are animated films: these
are usually dubbed into Romanian, though in larger
multiplexes you can usually also find the original
language version. The key words to look for are dublat
(dubbed) and subtitrat (subtitled).
To find out which films are showing, check the
individual websites of each cinema, or browse the full
programme of all the citys cinemas at cinemagia.ro.
Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59

(Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20, www.
hmultiplex.ro. The best complex of cinemas in the city,
offering ten screens. Q Tickets 17.40 - 32 lei.
IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00,
www.aficotroceni.ro. The first (and still only) IMAX
cinema in Romania is part of the Cinema City complex
in the AFI Cotroceni Palace mall. Q Tickets 15-37.50 lei.
Movieplex B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania),
tel. (+4) 021 407 83 00, www.movieplex.ro. Big,
multi-screen cinema in the Plaza Romania offering up to 25
different films a week. Q Tickets from 13.80 to 34.80 lei.
18
Culture & Events
22.10 Tuesday Snarky Puppy
12.11 Tuesday Children of Bodom
A-5, The Silver Church. A Denton, Texas-based instrumental

fusion band led by bassist, composer and producer Michael
League. Formed in 2004, the band features a collective
of nearly 30 musicians, referred to as The Fam on their
recordings and tours. The musicians perform on a variety of
instruments including guitars, keyboards, saxophones, brass,
percussion and strings. Many of the current and former band
members were once students at the University of North
Texas. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets 48 lei from eventim.ro or
Turbohalle, MPacii. Children of Bodom are a melodic death

metal band from Espoo, Finland. Formed in 1993, the group
currently consists of Alexi Laiho (vocals, lead guitar), Roope
Latvala (rhythm guitar), Janne Wirman (keyboards), Henkka
Seppl (bass), and Jaska Raatikainen (drums). In total they
have released eight studio albums, two live albums, two
EPs, two compilation albums and one DVD. Q Starts 20:00.
24.10 Thursday Julio Iglesias
B-5, Sala Palatului. That Johnny Logan? Yep, that Johnny Logan, the legendary three-time winner of the Eurovision Song
Contest (Logan won in 1980, 1987 and 1992). Q Starts
20:00. Tickets 50-250 lei from biletoo.ro, the Biletoo store
at Unirea Shopping Centre and the Sala Palatului box office.
B-5, Sala Palatului. Legendary Spanish crooner who may or

may not have been a goalkeeper with Real Madrid in his youth.
Has a massive following in Romania, but the eye-watering
ticket prices will test their loyalty to the limit. Q Starts 20:00.
25.10 Friday BZN B-5, Sala Palatului. Weve never heard
of them, but if youre Dutch then apparently you would have. We

read elsewhere that their longevity can be compared to that of
Cliff Richard in the UK. Make of that what you will. Q Starts 19:00.
25.10 Friday - 26.10 Saturday
Maximum Rock Festival
Turbohalle, MPacii. A two-day rock festival at Turbohalle. Day

one lineup features: Samael Atrocity, White Walls, God (The
Barbarian Horde) and Psycho Symphony. Day two features
My Dying Bride, The 69 Eyes, Leaves Eyes, Dirty Shirt,
Goodbye To Gravity, Abigail and Vespera. Q Starts 19:00
(both days). Tickets valid for both days cost 160-175 lei, available
from eventim.ro or from Eventim partner store around the city.
01.11 Friday Tom Jones
B-5, Sala Palatului. Underwear at the ready, ladies. Tom

Jones is coming to Bucharest and even at the age of 73 he
can still sing and can still move better than most men half
his age. Tickets are rather pricey for this neck of the woods,
but given the mans living legend status, hes probably worth
it. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 200-790 lei from eventim.ro or
02.11 Saturday Oscar Benton
B-5, Sala Palatului. Dutch vocalist and founder of the Oscar

Benton Blues Band. Expect a top night of blues, rock and roll
and boogie-woogie alongside Benton and his current band. Q
Starts 19:00. Tickets 100-900 lei from eventim.ro or from
Eventim partner stores around Bucharest.
16.11 Saturday Johnny Logan
25.11 Monday - 26.11 Tuesday Holograf
B-5, Sala Palatului. One of Romanias best-loved pop bands,

who took - amongst other things - the honour of being the first
act to represent Romania at the Eurovision Song Contest (in
1994). They sing exclusively in Romanian, but their songs are
catchy and they are well worth seeing live. Q Starts 19:30.
Tickets from 50-120 lei from eventim.ro or from Eventim
partner stores around Bucharest.
More Live Music

Finding good live music is no longer the problem in Bucharest it once was. In fact, on most nights - especially
at the weekend - you will be spoilt for choice.
Your first stop for regular live acts should be Mojo in
the Old Town (see page 87) which hosts top local bands
alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt Petersburg
(page 85) opposite also has live music a couple of times
per week. Club A (page 86) on Strada Blanari, is another
decent bet.
Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe (page 38)
Control (see page 60) and Panic (page 62) are known
for their range of live music, while Kulturhaus (on page
61) similarly has live bands on most evenings. For live
jazz, try Art Jazz Club and Green Hours (see page 62).
At Divan (the best Turkish restaurant in the city, see
page 79) there is live oriental music and dancing, and a
Turkish DJ, every Friday and Saturday night at 21:30.
20
Culture & Events

27.11 Wednesday Billy Ocean
B-5, Sala Palatului. Grammy and Brit-award winning British

pop/R&B act who had a string of hits in the 1970s and 1980s,
and whose Greatest Hits album has been a steady seller
for more than two decades. Was recently given a Lifetime
Achievement Award at the MOBO Awards. Q Starts 20:00.
Tickets 180-340 lei from vreaubilet.ro, or from the Vreau
Bilet kiosk at Unirea Shopping Centre.
Special Events
27.10 Sunday Swan Lake
B-5, Sala Palatului. A performance of the timeless ballet by

the Ukrainian Taras Shevchenko National Academic Theatre.
The role of Odette will be danced by Maria Allash from the
Bolshoi. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 75-200 lei from eventim.ro
or from Eventim partner stores around Bucharest.
20.11 Wednesday Sukhishvili
B-5, Sala Palatului. Now heres something a bit different.

Explore the world of traditional Georgian ballet, dance and
music with Georgian National Ballet, founded in 1945 by Iliko
Sukhishvili and Nino Ramishvili. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets
50-250 lei from eventim.ro or Eventim partner stores
around Bucharest.
Opera & Ballet

The Romanian National Opera (Opera Romana) is at B-5,
B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.
operanb.ro. It serves up a familiar repertoire of classic
operas and ballets. Tickets cost from 5.30 - 63.60 lei,
and can be purchased online at www.bilet.ro or from the
Operas own box office, open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
While black tie is not compulsory, you are expected to
dress smartly. The new opera season begins on October
17: below is the full opera and ballet schedule for October
2013. Novembers schedule had yet to be published at
press time: it should be available on the operas website
towards the end of October.
October
Date Time
17 19:00
18 19:00
19 19:00
20 19:00
24 18:30
25 18:30
26 19:00
27 12:00
27 19:00
Event
Othello
The Barber of Seville
Othello
Swan Lake
Carmen
Carmen
La Boheme
Hansel & Gretel
Giselle
Venue
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
Bucharest With Children

Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with
children. The major problem is that the vast majority of
the citys museums with a few honourable and notable
exceptions - are dull, offer no real inter-activity and little to
captivate young kids. The exceptions are the outstanding
Village Museum (see page 65), which children love, as
they can scurry around the houses, explore and generally
be kids without worrying too much about grump security
guards telling them off. The confectionery stand at the
entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too.
The Peasant Museum (see page 64) will please older
children, especially those who know a little Romanian
history (and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the
back of the museum, has puppet shows most weekend
mornings at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology
Museum (see page 70 across the road is also a good
choice for families. The other is the excellent Grigore
Antipa Natural History Museum, see page 63. We
recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious little
place that is the National Technical Museum at the
entrance to Parcul Carol. While very old fashioned and a
bit dusty, the kids loved it, as it is packed with models and
exhibits of things which are right up their street: trains, cars,
engines, jet packs, planes and such like.
The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances
most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening)
and is always a hit with kids. You will find details of its
per formances at the website www.circulglobus.ro.
Bucharests Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn right at
the Academia de Politie) is better than it has been for
years. They have a fine collection of exotic birds, and it is a
good half-day out for kids. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults,
6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00.
And then of course there are the parks. Cismigiu (B-5)
and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central, but
Tineretului (take the metro to Tineretului), with its fabulous
playgrounds, is also worth exploring.
An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland
Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when
it rains. Featuring perhaps the biggest indoor playground we
have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri, 20 lei Sat, Sun), bowling, billiards,
arcade games and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to
relax and have coffee in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on
the fourth floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6)
Piata Unirii. For kids who want to swim there is Daimon,
a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului, where under fives
swim for free. There are also pools open to the public at the
InterContinental and Hilton hotels, as well as two water
parks. For more on Swimming pools in Bucharest see
the box on page 92. Oh, and it might be mid-summer, but ice
skating is also an option: there is a good, indoor rink at the
AFI Palace shopping centre. Golf Planet, an indoor crazy
golf course on Piata Unirii, is another potential destination.
Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even if
the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will
probably not want to enter with kids. Those deserving a
special mention include the big hotels - all of which have
kids entertainers during their fabulous brunches - the Hard
Rock Cafe: always happy to see kids, Malagamba, Salt,
Red Angus, Osho, Meat Factory and Vacamuu, all of
which have a great kids menu: some offer kids activities
at weekend lunchtimes.
22
in lenins shoes
in lenins shoes
Lenin stands in front of Casa Scanteii, in a photo from

the early 1960s.
Art conquers communism, for the time being at least. When a
huge bronze statue of Vladimir Ilich Lenin - his stance and
bearing proclaiming a bright future for the toiling Romanian
masses - was rather unceremoniously pulled down just a
month after the Romanian Revolution of 1989, the huge
red granite plinth on which the statue had stood (in front of
Casa Scanteii, see page 67) was left empty. It would remain
empty for the next 20 years, with its emptiness coming to
represent Romania itself: one ideology had been toppled but
nothing else was quite ready to take its place.
Ciocan Vs. Ulyanov (2010), by Ioana Ciocan (pictured

at the works unveiling, holding a reef).
Melting (2012), by Judit Balko, which was part of the

Bucharest Biennale 5 exhibition.
That changed in 2010 when Ioana Ciocan, a visual artist
and assistant professor at the Art Faculty of the University
of Bucharest specialising in propaganda and public art,
initiated a project called Proiect 1990, the idea of which was
to revitalise an area of Bucharest with a tumultuous history
that had largely been ignored since the advent of democracy.
A close-up of Frescoes of capitalist worker heroes

(2010), by Emanuel Borcescu.
Ciocan managed to convince the citys authorities to make

the plinth a temporary exhibition space for contemporary art.
Since the first work was exhibited here in 2010 (Ciocan vs.
Ulyanov, by Ciocan herself) 17 different works have been
shown, some to wide acclaim. Bogdan Ratas sculpture
Handgun (see below) was bought by a Dutch collector
and is now is on long term loan to the National Museum of
Contemporary Art (MNAC): it stands in front of the museums
entrance (see page 72). All of the artists invited to exhibit
through Ciocans initiative have succeeded in creating a
new identity for Lenins plinth. All of the works exhibited
have made critical artistic statements about Romanian
socio-political life.
Unfortunately, the days of such statements - and of the

magnificent plinth itself - appear to be numbered. Bucharest
city council - along with the Ministry of Culture - plan to pull
down the plinth and replace it with a monstrous 28 metre
high sculpture by artist Mihai Buculei. (The Arc de Triumf by
comparison is 29 metres high: that should give you some idea
as to the scale of the sculpture the authorities are planning
on displaying here). The destruction of the plinth will be a
huge blow for contemporary art in Romania, as only a very
few contemporary artists have the opportunity to exhibit in
Bucharests public spaces.
Lenin himself - a statue completed Boris Caragea in
1960 - was in 1990 dumped behind the Mogosoaia Palace,
just outside Bucharest, alongside a statue of Petru Groza
(Romanias first communist prime minister), also by Caragea.
There they remained until Ciocan rescued them, with a view
to displaying the statue in a Museum of Communist Art
(similar to those in Budapest and Sofia). While a suitable
site (and the funding) for such a museum is sought, Lenin is
currently being kept safe in a secret, guarded location owned
by Bucharest city council.
Handgun (2011) by Bogdan Rata.
Country Lovers (2013) by Alexandru Poteca.
23
24
Romanian alcohol
Cheap and rather good, you should not visit Romania without
trying a decent-sized sample of its various forms of booze. Best
known internationally for its cheap yet good wine, Romania also
offers some decent beer and very strong spirits.
Romanian Wine
The story of the Romanian wine industry is a long and

complicated one. In short, it was very good, then the
communist regime ruined it through under-investment
and over-production, and now, back in private hands, it is
improving apace. Almost two per cent of Romanias total
agricultural land is given over to vineyards, making Romania
one of the worlds top 10 wine producers. As a general rule
the best whites are made in the north and in Transylvania,
while the countrys best reds are made in the south. There
are many exceptions, however.
The best known wine making regions in Romania are
Dobrogea (reds) and Murfatlar (which makes good reds
and decent whites) in the south east, Dealul Mare around
Buzau (which makes excellent reds, probably the countrys
best, in fact), Tarnava in central Transylvania (whites) and
Cotnari (whites) in Moldova. In the west, the deep reds of
the Recas vineyards have an increasingly loyal following.
While Romania grows international varieties of grape
very well, from Sauvignon Blanc to (some extraordinarily
good) Merlot, the country also boasts a number of excellent
native grapes. The best local varieties are probably the noble,
blackcurrant-tinged Feteasca Neagra (red), Feteasca Alba
(white), Feteasca Regala (white) and the aromatic, honeylike Tamaioasa Romaneasca (white).

Our personal favourites (and we repeat, these are favourites:

we are not claiming that they are Romanias best wines)
include the Chardonnay and Feteasca Regala-based brut
from the Halewood/Prahova Valley winery, the Tamaioasa
Romaneasca on the Domeniile Tohani label, and the semisweet red Rai de Murfatlar, a Cabernet Sauvignon from
Murfatlar.
Also worth looking out for is Busuioac de Bohotin,
which, while too sweet for many tastes is a unique wine
and one of few roses made in Romania. Another somewhat
unique Romanian wine is Lacrima lui Ovidiu, a bold, strong,
yet sweet and syrupy wine from Murfatlar, made from grapes
harvested deliberately late.
Other labels which can usually be taken as a sign of
quality include Davino from Dealul Mare, Stirbey and Jidvei
(especially its Feteasca Regala), Corcova and Domeniul
romanian alcohol
Coroanei. Perhaps our favourite wine, however (at the

moment) is the Merlot sold on the Vitis Metamorfosis label,
a joint venture between Halewood and Marchesi Antinori.
Although it is not in fact strictly Romanian, it would be
amiss of us not to mention the fantastic sparkling wine made
at the Cricova winery in the Republic of Moldova, which is
widely found in Romania (one of the few places it is). There
are various kinds, of which both the brut and the rose are
probably the best. Besides the sparkling wines, any wine
made at Cricova can usually be relied upon for quality.
When it comes to purchasing wine in Romania, remember
that prices usually reflect quality: you are therefore advised
to spend as much as possible when choosing a Romanian
wine. The good news is that you will rarely have to spend
much: prices remain relatively low and should stay so given
the increasing abundance of great choice.
There are some excellent specialist wine shops in
Bucharest now (see page 88), including Vinexpert, Arte &
Vino, and Boutique de Vin. Grand Cafe Van Gogh has a
wine cellar where you can taste and buy fine wines. There
is also a very good wine bar, Corks (see page 80). Of the
supermarkets, Auchan probably has the best selection of
wine, with prices here usually lower than at the specialist
shops.
Romanian Beer
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer, and

while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there
were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such statistics do
not tell the whole story of beer in Romania, which is far from
being a sorry one. With large amounts of investment from
big foreign brewers the countrys best known beers have
been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number
of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered
and lemon beers (see below) is one such example.
Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have
not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the
cheapest pints of beer in Europe. (We have long suggested
that the countrys marketing people use the fact in their
international campaigns!)
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask ten Romanians what the national beer
is, it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus. Both Ursus
and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now owned by
SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas,
Azuga and Stejar.
Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while
Carlsbergs locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and
very popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular
in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark is
similar and equally good. Look out too for lower alcohol radler
or lemon beers. Most of the local breweries produce one. A
few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries, producing
their own beer, or at least serve their own bespoke brew
made elsewhere: Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest and Biutiful
are three such places.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg,
Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all popular
in Romania. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei
more expensive than the local stuff, no beer in Romania is
likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even in a club or trendy bar.
A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer
costs from 7-8 lei, often even cheaper. The one exception
is Guinness. Found all over the country (it is very popular
amongst Romanians, who have taken to it like ducks to water)
it is also relatively expensive.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). Make sure you know what
you are ordering: you really wouldnt want to end up with a
bottle of Guinness now, would you? In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
Romanian Spirits
Do not leave Romania without trying the local firewater,

tuica (drink too much on the other hand and you might not
be in any fit state to leave). Made with prunes and fermented
in wooden casks this strong smelling spirit is lethal yet
ubiquitous. Every male in the country has a supply (even if
he doesnt drink it) and will insist that his fathers/father-inlaws/uncles etc. is the best. When made from other fruits,
tuica is usually called rachiu. In Maramures, tuica is called
horinca, but is essentially the same spirit, although many
people will insist that the drink should be distilled three times
before it can be named horinca.
Similar to tuica is palinca, a more refined (it is distilled
twice) spirit made usually from a mixture of fruits. Both tuica
and palinca have exceptionally high alcohol content.
Other local spirits include the less alcoholic afinata,
visinata and zmeurata. These are very light pseudo-liqeurs
often served as aperitifs or a dessert, or simply as a lighter
alternative to tuica when the occassion calls for unu mic
(a small drink/shot). These drinks are made by taking small
garden fruits (bilberries - afine - for afinata, cherries - visine
- for visinata and raspberries - zmeura - for zmeurata) and
leaving them to ferment in large glass bottles placed in the
sun for two to three months, with lots of sugar added.
Other spirits made in Romania include two herbal
concoctions from Transylvania, both similar to the Hungarian
drink Unicum. Salvator is made in Sumuleu Ciuc and is
probably slightly better than Transilvanicum, made in
Miercurea Ciuc. Like Unicum theyre a bit of an acquired
taste. We should also mention vinars (which translates
literally as Burnt Wine). Its not quite cognac, but youd swear
it was.
25
Lesser Visited Bucharest
26
The first of what we hope will become a regular series,

looking at some of the quirkier and less-visited parts
of Bucharest: we start with Bucurestii Noi and Titan.
While for most visitors to Krakow, Poland, the citys biggest
attractions are its picture postcard Old Town Square, hippy
Kazimierz or regal Wawel, for us the best bit of Krakow has
always been Nowa Huta, a planned northern suburb built in
the 1950s in a deliberate attempt to make liberal, bourgeois
Krakow a more proletarian, working-class kind of place.
Though architecturally incomparable to the jewels of central
Krakow, the grandiose, vaguely neoclassical buildings of
Nowa Huta - an area, by the way, which is currently undergoing
a revival - was built to make a statement: that communists
were not just about functionality.
In Bucharest of course, when we think of grandiose
building projects we think first and foremost of the Centru
Civic: the vast area around Piata Unirii and the Casa
Poporului, built in the late 1980s on the site of the former
Uranus and Jewish districts of the city. (It is worth noting that
Nowa Huta - both the housing estate and the steelworks that
provided employment for most of its residents - was built
outside of Krakow city centre, on a greenfield site).
Yet long before central Bucharest was destroyed to make
way for the Centru Civic, the city had already undergone
something of a proletarian transformation of its own: from the
mid-1960s onwards the authorities had been busy building

enormous housing estates (Militari, Titan, Drumul Taberei)
for the hundreds of thousands of workers brought in to work
at the capitals industrial complexes. In the main, those
developments comprised mainly of high-rise blocks built with
little regard for aeshetics, although Drumul Taberei especially
was viewed as something of a model garden suburb by the
authorities at the time. Currently a vast building site while an
extension to the Bucharest is constructed, Drumul Taberei
is set for a revival once the work is complete.
Yet the closest Bucharest got to having a Nowa Huta
of its own was in fact the area known as Bucurestii Noi
Davin Ellicson davinellicson.com
Titan-Balta Alba
That an old Romanian textbook of ours contains a passage

about the Titan-Balta Alba area of Bucharest, complete with
the immortal words Titan-Balta Alba is a new district full of
beautiful, tall, comfortable blocks has become something
of a standing joke in the Bucharest IYP office. And lets be
honest: Titan is not the most attractive area of the Romanian
capital, and it is unlikely to feature in any mainstream guide to
Bucharest anytime soon. In Your Pocket of course is anything
but a mainstream guide, and as we passed through Titan on
our way to a supermarket a couple of weeks ago, we couldnt
help think that the area does rather have at least a couple of
points of interest that the jaded sightseer or resident might
actually fancy taking a closer look at.
For a start, there is the history of the area itself to consider.
Titan-Balta Alba was the largest urban development ever
built in Romania, dwarfing even the later Centru Civic and
the Casa Poporului. Built mainly between 1960 and 1970,
around a lake and huge park, Titan was designed to house
over 450,000 people in modest, bland yet modern apartments.
For many of those people who moved here, these new homes
provided their first experience of running water, inside toilets
and central heating. That by the 1980s the central heating was
rarely turned on should not reflect too poorly on the vision of
those who wanted to create modern homes for hundreds of
thousands of people in a short space of time.
Although the area may not appear to be anything more

than block after endless monolithic block, there is if you look
hard enough a couple of streets of terraced housing in
Titan, on Stradas Fildesului and Doicesti, just off Strada Campia
Libertatii, built in the late 1950s (vaguely) on the English model
(inside, however, the houses were divided into small flats, some
with collective kitchens). Designed by Tiberiu Niga who would
later design the huge blocks in front of the Sala Palatului they
were constructed at a time when the block had not become
sacred, and the regime was experimenting with a number of
different kinds of low-cost housing.
The monumental Titan metro station (left) is the most
spectacular on all the Bucharest system. Cavernous, and
gargantuan in scale its astonishing main hall is as close as
Bucharest comes to recreating the jaw-dropping experience
of the showcase stations on the Moscow metro. There are
other places on the system which hint at grandeur (the marble
at Piata Unirii and Izvor, the galleries above Universitate) but
none have the same amount of visual impact as Titan.
Titan/A.I. Cuza Park, which surrounds Lake Titan, is
amongst the nicest in Bucharest. Indeed, it was the first park in
the city after 1989 to be properly renovated and re-landscaped:
most work was done in 2008-2009. Whole terraces were built,
lawns laid and there are playgrounds at every turn. There are
even peacocks.
Perhaps the most remarkable sight in Titan however is the
Maramures-style church that stands on the edge of Titan
Park, on Strada Liviu Rebreanu. The church (officially named
the Biserica Pogorarea Sfantului Duh) was built from 1994-6
on the initiative of local residents, priests and architects as a
reaction to the utilitarian nature of the Titan district. It was a
bold statement of intent which made it clear that not just had
the era of state atheism come to an end, but that the era of
concrete had come to an end too. The church is now a focal
point of the local community and one of the best attended in
the city. Other churches like it were originally intended to be
built around the city, but never were. You can, however, see two
original Maramures churches in Bucharest, one at the Peasant
Museum, and one at the Village Museum.
lesser visited bucharest

(which literally translates as New Bucharests), an area of
the capital which - for those of you who want to see more of
Bucharest than your average tourist - might be worth a look.
We first became aware of the area ourselves after finding
a socio-economic guide to Bucharest from 1983 in an old
pile of books we had hanging around the office. While the
guide makes little mention of the area, it did say that it was
the first major housing project built in Bucharest after the
liberation (as the book puts it), and was constructed from
1953-56. That little piece of information alone was enough
to perk our interest, so off we went to take a look.
First off, getting to Bucurestii Noi requires a ride on the
most modern part of the Bucharest metro: the stations at
Jiului and Parc Bazilescu were opened only in 2011; as
such they are still rather shiny and new.
The centre of Bucurestii Noi is opposite the exit of Parc
Bazilescu station: a square with a small playground in front
of the neoclassical Masca Theatre. The theatre - currently
not in use - was before 1989 a cultural centre, dedicated
to Friendship Amongst Peoples. The Masca Theatre
Company itself now operates from another theatre, in Militari.
The theatre is flanked on either side by two monumental
apartment blocks, both built in the same neoclassical style
as the theatre. While the majority of the apartments inside
are modest (some were built with communal kitchens: a
theme of construction in Romania at the time, see the box
on Titan), the exteriors - with high windows and Corinthian
columns - are far more elegant that the utilitarian blocks on
the other side of the road (built a decade or so later). It is also
worth noting that the recently renovated blocks of Bucurestii
Noi have weathered noticeably better than those on ghastly
Bulevardul Unirii.
Just north of the metro station is Parc Bazilescu itself,
named for the Bazilescu family which for centuries owned
much of the land on which Bucurestii Noi is built. While the
park is - like most in Bucharest these days - very well kept,
with good playgrounds and flower beds galore - its former
centrepiece, the Teatru de Vara (open air theatre) is alas
little more than a ruin. Another neoclassical masterpiece
built in the early 1950s, it would appear at first glance to be
beyond repair.
Opposite the park, and somewhat hidden amongst the
trees, its well worth going to take a look at the red and white
Bazilescu Church (Biserica Bazilescu): one of the most
remarkable in Bucharest. The church was built in 1898 as
a mausoleum for the Bazilescu family, and became a parish
church only in 1943. Both the structure and the original
frescoes (painted in 1900 by a Danish artist, Aage Exner)
were severely damaged in the earthquake of 1977: work
was carried out to consolidate the building in 1979, but
the paintings were not fully restored until 2000. Next to
the church is a rather charming chapel of rest, completed
in 1993. You should also look out for the elegant mosaic
featuring Sts. Nicholas and Catherine.
27
28
Where to stay
Where to stay
Cream of the Crop

Athenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel.
(+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Simply
put, this has been one of Bucharests finest hotels for almost
a century. It is a living piece of the citys history - it dates
from 1914 - and yet inside its historic facade you will find a
most modern place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms
to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata
Revolutiei. Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining
and of course this is the home of the English Bar: probably
Bucharests most famous bar. Q 272 rooms. Prices from
1000-5500 lei. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT (9%).
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77,
www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious, certainly, but offering
something a bit different to the bigger players, the Carol Park
is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this place,
as you do not find it by chance. A gorgeous place where the
finest things are offered to all who pass through its doors,
expect only fine, classic furnishings and very personal service.
International stars who value discretion above all else tend
to stay here when visiting Bucharest. Q 17 rooms. Prices
from 120-515. Prices include breakfast. VAT and taxes not
included. PHRLGKW
Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest.
Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest
offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect
of the brand. With a renowned reputation for individual and
friendly service, the hotel can also offer the greenest setting
in the capital. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big,
comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some
outstanding drinking and dining options. Q 164 rooms.
Prices from 690-2100 lei . Extra bed 120 lei. Prices include
breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRUFGKDCW
Epoque B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312
32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. Now heres a hotel we have

no problem in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of
2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least
its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the
heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression
of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there
are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is
good and for what you get, the prices are a steal. Q 44
rooms. Prices from 160-410. Extra bed on request in the
apartment. Prices include local taxes. Breakfast and VAT not
included. PTHRUFLGKDCW
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Making the very best of a wonderful building
(which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand
Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years of
loving renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every
turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing,
for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for
example are state of the art. For the great location and for a
change from the big chains, its well worth trying out. Q 59
rooms. Prices from 280-800. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes
included. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel B-3,
Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021

201 50 00, www.hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-rise hotel
in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern
exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the
signatures of top-name designers. The breakfast is perhaps
the best in the city, coming as it does with champagne (for
those who enjoy such things in the morning), and the dining
opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonderful
Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the
best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the
upper floors, for the views over the city. Q 285 rooms. Prices
from 135-385. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes.
POTHR6UFLGKDW
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.

com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete
with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on
the top floor) the InterContinental was the first major five star
hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today
it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for
journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal
guests for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with
great views of the city, there is first class dining in the building,
and the management is commendably hands-on. The new
Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering
great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms, internet, a
library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. Non-guests can
use the Club Lounge for 35 per day. Its open 06:30-22:30.
Q 257 rooms. Prices from 125-335 (October), 115-319
(November). Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes (9%).
POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea 13

Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott
occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests
30
Where to stay
big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and its cavernous
interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part of the same
grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely
and well-furnished, providing a welcome contrast to the building.
Plenty of good dining options, and home to the biggest swimming
pool in the city (we think).Q 401 rooms. Prices from 485-5000
lei. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices do not include
breakfast and VAT. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei

37B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.
novotel.com. Few locations are better than this, right on
fashionable Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a
replica of the old neoclassical National Theatre which stood
on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week
during the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part
of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor
swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here. Q
258 rooms. Prices from 65 -200. Extra bed on request in
the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main
attraction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the
bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city.
There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the
square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere
else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well
fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre
with sauna and massage available. Q 203 rooms. Prices from
205-800. Extra bed 20. Prices do not include VAT, local
taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Where to stay
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest.

A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more
classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels
in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As
you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern,
and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design.
Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both
an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the
weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime
Steaks and Seafood. Q 718 rooms. Prices from 500-8500
lei. Prices include breakfast (except single, double and extra
bed rates). PHRUFLGKDCW
Over 150
Alexander Sos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel. (+4) 021 569
51 10/(+4) 021 569 51 19, www.alexanderhotel.ro. Big,
plush hotel close to Bucharests high-rise business district of
Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and impeccably furnished and
come with a host of extras. The bathrooms are particularly
luxurious. The hotel has a good little spa centre with sauna,
Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great breakfast - which is amongst
the citys best - included in the price of your room. Q 73
rooms. Prices from 160-380. Prices include breakfast, VAT
and local taxes. PiHRFLKDW
Cismigiu C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro.
One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even
a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche)
reopens its doors after being closed for almost two decades.
In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions
have been spent making the hotel look better than at any
time in its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all
of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a
great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking.
Worth every penny. Q 60 rooms. Prices from 210-270.
Extra bed 30. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes.
PTHRUFLGKW
Marshal Garden C-4, Calea Dorobanti 50B, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 44 44, www.hotelmarshalgarden.ro. Spacious, colourful and original, this hotel - located in
one of the best addresses in the city - is a fantastic place and
one of few new Bucharest hotels to really perk up our attention.
The decor is amazing: bright, full of multi-coloured arabesques
each floor has a different mood, while the mural behind reception is alone worth popping in to see. Good staff, big rooms,
modern bathrooms, smashing breakfast, free Wifi. Its worth
the money. Q 63 rooms. Prices from 70-270. Prices include
breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHUFLGKDW
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4)
021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the

most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by
offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair
amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than
the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras
and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with
children and babies: the staff make a point of making them
feel welcome. Q 76 rooms. Price 150. Prices include VAT.
Breakfast not included. PTHRUFLGKW
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99 90,
www.parliament-hotel.ro. So named because it is located
behind Romanias parliament building, Casa Poporului, which
you can see from almost all of the rooms. This hotel has been
around for a decade now and offers a four/five star experi-
ence: many of the rooms have jacuzzis in their bathrooms and

are packed with luxuries such as the huge, high double beds,
which are among the best weve come across in Bucharest.
Q 56 rooms. Prices from 100-170. Extra bed 20. Prices
include VAT and breakfast. PHRUGKW
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.

(+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. The
Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the
Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb
(close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park - hence the name) it
boasts nice rooms which - while not big - are comfortable
and boast brightly coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton
sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast included in the
price. Q 267 rooms. Prices from 139-210. Prices include
breakfast. PHRGKW
Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea
Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best
hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a
great breakfast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit
a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five
star hotels lack pools, the Majestics makes it well worth that
little bit extra cash. Q 111 rooms. Prices from 240-1200.
Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUi
FLGKDCW
Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.
(+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro.
Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across
the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at
the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place
is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are
31
32
Where to stay
amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there

is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value
for the money. Q 298 rooms. Prices from 159-270. Prices
include breakfast. PHRUFGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.

ro. You want central? Well this place is central. In a building on
a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great
place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed
the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern,
tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and
good bathrooms. Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi
throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres an on
site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside. Q 21
rooms. Prices from 99-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include all
taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6ULGKW
100-150
Angelo Airporthotel Bucharest Calea Bucurestilor
283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.

com. The hotel closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The
Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels &
Resorts, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior:
bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas.
There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre
complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is
complimentary. Great buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms. Prices
from 100-150. Prices include VAT, local taxes and breakfast.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04
77, www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from

the outside, the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big)
Where to stay
rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders

for the best bathrooms in the city prize we often mention but
never get round to handing out. In good weather the terrace
at the back is a great place to take your breakfast (included
in the price of a room). Q 32 rooms. Prices from 65-75.
Extra bed 10. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast.
PHRLGKW
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031
425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09, www.hotelberthelot.

ro. Smart, modern and dead central. What more could you
want? For your money you are getting a good deal here:
the rooms are big and well furnished with plenty of mod
cons, such as LCD televisions, while the bathrobes in the
sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy and the cosmetics
a cut above the norm. Q 43 rooms. Prices from 109-129.
Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast.
PTHRLGKW
the Central was totally renovated last year and is now one of
the best (and best value) stays in the city. We like the staff
who are always friendly, and who go out of their way to make
sure you do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such
attention to detail is to be applauded. Q 62 rooms. Prices
from 140-180. Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes and
breakfast. PTHR6UGW
services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel
that suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for
example, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete
with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a
visit, serving good international cuisine. Q 35 rooms. Prices
from 90-120. VAT not included. Prices include breakfast.
PTHRLGKDW
Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu

33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers
real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy
place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and
apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It
also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath
and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need
of evening relaxation. The rooftop terrace has fine views of
what is the citys best residential area, and the food in the
restaurant better than most of Bucharests restaurants: it is
really that good. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 90-120. Prices
include breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRLGKDW
021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, www.hotelduke.

ro. Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from
Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight
spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past.
Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and
theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks
for their excellent mattresses.Q 37 rooms. Prices from
75-145. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast.
PRGKW
Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
55, www.thhotels.ro. You could quite literally throw a stone

from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not
recommend it), and as such we think this is a great place for
families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not
cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially given
the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they
lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too.
Q 33 rooms. Prices from 130-170. Prices include all taxes
and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW
Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,
tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.

residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic hotel in a good area of
the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super
Under 100
Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel.
(+4) 021 310 56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. A nice place on
a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be
within walking distance. There is an elegance to the decoration
that suggests theyve taken real time and effort over things,
and the beds are large, comfortable and covered with crisp yet
soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind
of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously
good value for money. Q 8 rooms. Prices from 50-65. Prices
include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTLW
Capital Plaza B-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel.

(+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. Looking for
the business traveller not wanting to pay five star prices,
one of the best hotels in the city is this smart place at the
northern end of the city centre, about five minutes walk from
Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern
style, with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms
are good, and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top
onsite restaurant too, the 1880. Q 95 rooms. Prices from
90-150. Prices include breakfast and VAT. PTHRUi
FLGKW
Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 315 56 36, www.thhotels.ro. Central by
name, central by nature. Slap, bang on Bucharests version
of Broadway (its all relative), amongst cinemas and theatres,
33
34
Where to stay
Where to stay
from on the ground floor: one has a covered terrace. Q 87
rooms. Prices from 115-250. Prices include local taxes, VAT
and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKDW
Europa Royale Bucharest C-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPi-
ata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.

com. The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a
stones throw from where Bucharest began, at the Curtea
Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever
hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found the
staff exemplary. A genuinely welcome addition to Bucharest
and the Old Town, and not as pricey as you might think. Q 92
rooms. Prices from 85-200. Extra bed 20. Breakfast, VAT
and local taxes included. PTH6UGKW
Golden Tulip Victoria Bucharest B-4, Calea Victoriei
166, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, www.

goldentulipbucharest.com. Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a
pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the
Golden Tulip is a fine hotel - with newly renovated rooms - that
makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for
example all have enough room for bathtubs, while the whole
place is bright and modern in design. Its perfectly suited
both to business travellers looking to get great value for their
companys dollar, as well as those in town for pleasure.Q 81
rooms. Prices from 85-105. Prices include VAT, all taxes and
breakfast. PTHRUFLGKW
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.com. This,

people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room
for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well
with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are
Caro C-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,

tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. The Caro
is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a four-star
establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro Parc:
one of the best three-stars in the city, and the outstanding
value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three offer bright
rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there is terrific buffet
breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The surroundings are
leafy and yet the citys business district is just across the
street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf. Q 188 rooms.
Prices from 57-150. Prices include VAT and breakfast.
PTH6UFLKDCW
equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a

host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The
on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the
city.Q 70 rooms. Prices from 78-98. Extra bed 29. Prices
include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite

the station. Q 250 rooms. Prices from 49-79. Prices include
VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person).
PHR6ULGKW
Hello Hotels
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. If you want a

view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in
Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis
hotel, just as you love them from anywhere else on the planet.
Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast
non-smoking rooms and very good staff. Q 161 rooms. Prices
from 49-95. Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast
not included. (9 per person). PTHR6ULGKW
B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372

12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked so
good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of
hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and
mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a
bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as
value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals
in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station. Q
150 rooms. Prices from 33-69. Prices include VAT and taxes.
Breakfast not included. PR6ULGKW
Hotel Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, MStefan cel Mare, tel.
(+4) 021 231 22 83/(+4) 0728 60 22 83, www.nonnamia.
ro/hotel-nonnamia. A bed and breakfast with an Italian twist
(the fantastic restaurant on the ground floor). Homely rooms with
bags of character, good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Add in great
staff and a quiet location and you have one of Bucharests real
bargains. We love the place. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 40-50.
Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes.
Ibis Gara de Nord
A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021

300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than 40
years this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift
when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now.
Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual
services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good
Charter Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352
87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay at this

hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really: these
must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they
cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the
other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect
if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that
it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with
rooms and services to match anywhere, and at prices as
low as these, we doubt anyone will be complaining. Q 21
rooms. Prices from 20-55. Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast. PTRLGW
Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
Minerva B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, fax (+4) 021 312 39 63, www.
minerva.ro. Having been around so long the Minerva is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for business
people who pay their own bills: you get great service, a good
room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central
location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the fivestars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is
located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good
spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage.
Q 147 rooms. Prices from 75-111. Prices include all taxes,
VAT and breakfast. PHRFGKDW
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.
Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.

ramadanorth.ro. Well located in a quiet residential area near
Herastrau park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on
average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for
DoubleTree by Hilton D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel.
(+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. Located just

off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon
of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except
monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place
offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms.
Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in
Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose
35
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Where to stay
Where to stay
Short Term Rental
Apart Homes C-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33,
bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www.
aparthomes.ro. A wide range of city-centre apartments, from
studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa.
Whats more, they have someone on call 24 hours for any
emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety
of other services. Q 20 rooms (5 singles/doubles 50, 5
triples 85, 5 suites 100, 5 apartments 150). Prices include
breakfast and local taxes. VAT not included. PTR6GW
Cert Accommodation B-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu
1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, www.cert-accommodation.ro. A very good selection of fully furnished, elegant,
serviced studios, one, two and three bedroom apartments
in and around the city centre. Cleaning is free, and they can
also arrange car hire and airport transfers. Cheaper rates for
longer stays. Q 21 rooms (6 studios 40, 15 apartments
55 - 100). Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast
not included. POTFLGKW
Grand Accommodation B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29,
tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.
for-rent.ro. Grand Accommodation has a variety of well
furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good
locations available for both short and long term rentals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Prices from 30-80/night. VAT included.
longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of equipment
and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool.Q 232 rooms.
Prices from 59-99. Extra bed 10. Prices include all taxes,
VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDCW
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Always full
(reserve well in advance) you will see why when you arrive.
The Rembrandt is what happens when people with taste
renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe
next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people).
Luxurious without overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s
wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by
up-to-the-minute technology. Q 16 rooms. Prices from 75118. Extra bed available. Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast. PTRUGKW
Sarroglia Hotel C-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 59, tel. (+4) 031
412 60 00, www.sarrogliahotel.com. Bright, contemporary
and architecturally stunning hotel that looks expensive yet costs
relatively little. The rooms are chic and pack a real punch in the
comfort stakes, and each comes with an individual feel to it, often
in the form of a full-wall mural. The location is close enough to the
centre to be attractive while remaining residential: this is a quiet
area of town. The hotels restaurant and lounge provide colour
and panache. Q 32 rooms. Prices from 74-110. Prices include
breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PHRUFLGKW
Tania-Frankfurt C-6, Str. Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 319 27 58/(+4) 031 104 20 83, fax (+4) 021
319 27 56, rezervari@taniahotel.ro, www.taniahotel.ro.
This is a cracking little place in the very heart of Old Town,
just a shake or two away from the citys best nightlife. Rooms
are good value, bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern,
bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with
its sky light and raised sleeping area. Theres free internet for
guests. Q 13 rooms. Prices from 49-99. Prices include local
taxes and VAT. Breakfast included. PRGKW
Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021
311 49 27, www.hoteltrianon.ro. You cant do much better

than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, opposite Cismigiu
Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a
street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame
not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple,
tastefully decorated and offer excellent value for money.Q 26
rooms. Prices from 85-133. Extra bed 18. Prices include
all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW
Villa Barrio B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 3, MPiata Romana,

tel. (+4) 0734 33 30 20, www.barrio.ro. Bang in the centre of the city this villa, once the residence of the legendary
Cartagiu family, is a terrific choice for anyone looking to be
close to the citys best night spots and restaurants. Rooms
are not big but are comfortable, equipped with all mod-cons
and have excellent en suite bathrooms.Q 8 rooms. Prices
from 30-40. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast
not included. PHGW
dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers

and families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners
do a great breakfast and are a wealth of inside info about
Bucharest. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 20-54. Prices include
breakfast, VAT and local taxes. T6GW
X Hostel C-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 76 13, www.xhostel.eu. A hostel with something

of party-central reputation. As such it is probably not the
best place in town for a quiet night in, yet the young crowd
that frequents the place hardly mind that. Good, clean dorms
and bathrooms, and a number of singles for those who can
splash the extra cash. Q 24 rooms. Prices from 5-45.
Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included.
PT6GKDW
Hostels & Villas

Flowers B & B D-5, Str. Plantelor 2, tel./fax (+4) 021
311 98 48, www.flowersbb.ro. Very close to Piata Unirii
this place is exactly what it claims to be: a proper, homely bed
and breakfast. Few frills, little fuss, just first class hospitality
from great staff who will make your stay as comfortable as
possible. In warmer months you can have your breakfast outside in the lovely courtyard. Q 18 rooms. Prices from 35-55.
Prices include taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTR6LGW
Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara de
Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00. Located in a lovely 1920s
house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms,
37
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Restaurants
Restaurants
American
Champions B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.
championsrestaurant.ro. Still serving one of the very best
burgers in Bucharest (you can choose one or design your
own from an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed
by anyone weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In
fact, now we think of it, the portions of everything here are
enormous: even the childrens servings are very healthy
indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection of
American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even some
more refined, slow food options.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTLSW
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206
62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. One of the largest
Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go wrong here, whatever
time of day you visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are
always well looked after and have their own menu), dinner with
the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut
above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they
should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and
expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLESW
Asian
QuanQuan B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 1A, tel. (+4)
021 269 21 88, www.restaurantmongol.ro. Finally, Bucharest gets a proper Mongolian restaurant, where you pick
the ingredients you want and hand them over to the chef who
cooks it all on a hot plate for you. Its big, bright and airy and
service is terrific, and there are various set menus for the
indecisive, including a quick lunch for busy office types. Its a
taxi-ride from the city centre, but well worth the trip. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30. . PTLSW
Belgian
Waterloo D-5, Str. Traian 188, tel. (+4) 021 320 35
88/(+4) 0740 17 10 90, www.waterloo-taverne.com.

This is a rough and ready type place, with long bench seats.
Its fun. The menu is far more adventurous than you might
imagine, featuring duck with white sauce, chicken with beer
and even some fondue. Good prices and great value all round:
well worth a look, especially if there is a group of you. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
British
The Trafalgar Pub C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Popular with

all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this
place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent
meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company.
The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the
Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba
de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu
varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on
draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere
in Bucharest does. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. . PLVESW
Chinese
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425 47
47, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Bucharests first upmarket Chinese

restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and
delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. The menu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes, such as the first class
gong bau duck, the seafood nest and the spicy crab. To get the
best out of this place though round up three friends and go for
one of the set menus. Tremendous value. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Last food order 23:00. . PLVESW
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4,
MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 12

85, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Dating back to 1980s this
little piece of Bucharest foodie history was the first Chinese
restaurant in the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come and go
fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable, the setting is good, with
a nice covered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar
Cartagiu. You will find the Nan Jing on the ground floor of the
Minerva hotel. On weekday afternoons from 14:00-17:00
their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent discount. Q Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
Fine Dining
Morgan La Dud C-5, Str. Sperantei 7, tel. (+4) 0752
70 03 00, www.morganladud.ro. Dud in Romanian means

mulberry, so you will understand the reason behind the name of
this place the minute you see an impeccably preserved Morgan
and step inside the gorgeous courtyard complete with mulberry
tree in the middle. The food is special, from the pasta (all made
on the premises) to the exciting variations of Romanian classics
(sarmale made with mutton and rolled in mulberry leaves, for
example). The White Duchess gateaux makes for a smashing
dessert. With a range of fine wines from one of Romanias best
vineyards this place is top notch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon. . PESW
Veranda Casa Frumoasa B-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi

5, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, www.
verandacasafrumoasa.ro. Simply put, this one of the top
five restaurants in Bucharest. Combining a contemporary
setting with fine food, this is a gourmets delight. The frequently changing menu is a mix of cuisines and flavours and
always - no matter how often you come - features something
new and exciting to try. The conservatory-esque setting is
terrific, and there are outstanding wines and champagnes to
complement the food. A top, top place. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
. PLSW
Food & Drink

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in
which you could just as easily sit down and have a three
course meal as you could spend a night on the beer or
cocktails.
18 Lounge A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733

50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or dinner with a view?
This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor of one of
the tallest office buildings in the city, this place doesnt need
to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does.
More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late
in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang
out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much
like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe
is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like it. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. . PLW
Embassy C-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Popular with
a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy (there are
39
40
Restaurants
Restaurants
dishes which - for this city - are very well-priced. Excellent
wine list which, while featuring a great selection of French
wines, for once acknowledges that the New World can make
a decent grape too. In short, this place is a mini-revolution on
the Bucharest dining scene and worthy of your time. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PESW
Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel.

(+4) 0731 45 36 08, www.icietla.ro. As regular readers
will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what
we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your
gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud
of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine
list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the
magnificent creme brulee. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. . PVEBSW
a couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years
now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it
is. Serving a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one
of the citys best - and much else besides (including some
great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as
the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until
very late. We usually do. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. . PSW
La Belle Epoque B-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021

230 07 70, www.labelleepoque.ro. A big, bright and open
plan Belgian beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. There
are plenty of Belgian beers on offer - with Stella, Leffe and
Hoegaarden available on tap - as well as more than a few
nice Belgian touches in and around the bar. While the food
is more local than Belgian, it is very good, with lots of seasonal specials, and something of a legendary dessert menu.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Last orders 23:00. . PIBW
Escargot Bistro D-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 021
201 71 33, www.escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: this is

the place for you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is
a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the
chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48
hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never eaten
in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all served
in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here. Lovely terrace in the right weather. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . SW
French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae

Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02,
www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to happen. A French restaurant
that actually delivers the goods time after time yet does so
in an atmosphere that begs you to spend more time here.
The menu features a number of simple, new-wave French
The Harbour B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel.

(+4) 021 319 72 57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, www.harbour.
ro. A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well as
friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the food
better than average, though the real joy of this place is its view to
the market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by
how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most
popular tourist and visitor spots in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0725 21 06 08, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Those who know their food know that this
place is one of the top ten restaurants in the land. Beyond
the Warhol prints on the walls this is French du terroir, where
simple yet perfect flavours are allowed to breathe by a gifted
chef who cooks for his customers as though he is cooking for
his best mates. It is not cheap, but then dishes like scallops
with mash potatoes and a truffle and veal sauce never can
be. Special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
Fusion
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand
Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, www.

hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalon-restaurant. At Avalon, the jewel in the
HoJos dining crown, knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours
and smells of the superb fusion cuisine. Every time we visit (and
we visit as often as we can) we find something new and interesting - and usually inventive - on the menu (which changes regularly)
and a good new wine to go with our meal. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,
19:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 180 lei/pers,
children under seven free, children between seven and 12 years
half price. . PLSW
Barrio by Embassy B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 30, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 22 27 77, www.barrio.ro. Wonderful bar, cafe and restaurant (the place works as all three) where
besides expertly mixed cocktails you can enjoy some sensational
food, chosen from one of the most adventurous menus in the
city. Roasted duck breast with rice and kumquat sauce and
sea bass with ratatouille and celery sauce are just two of the
standout dishes we entirely recommend. Not as dear as you
might think either. Worth a visit. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00. . PKSW
French
Boutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, www.boutiquedupain.
com. Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a
lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving
breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city,
with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh
supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to
beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot meals of
an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual
dinner. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 8:30 - 20:00. . PSW
Muse Bistro B-3, Str. Paris 17, MPiata Victoriei, tel.
(+4) 0740 12 34 55, www.musebistro.ro. While not a

vegetarian restaurant per se (they serve seafood, fish and
use eggs) there is no meat on the menu here, and there is
Symbol key
For restaurants in
Bucharests Old Town
see pages 72-87
La Cantine de Nicolai B-4, Str. Povernei 15-17,
P Air conditioning
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
E Live music
M Nearby metro station
G Non-smoking
W Wifi
S Take away
41
42
Restaurants
Restaurants
plenty on the menu for both vegetarians and vegans to choose

from. Opens for breakfast - start your day with the Seamans
Sandwich, packed with tuna and beans - while the pizzas
(they call them pizza altfel: different pizzas) are amongst
the best in the city. A tasty selection of soups, salads and
seafood round off a highly impressive selection of healthy
treats. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . VNS
German
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel.
(+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really, one of our favourite places in
Bucharest, now as ever (and it has been around for more than
15 years). Serving giant portions of great German sausages
(all made on the premises) as well as pork knuckles, kraut
and the like, they keep the prices down and their punters very
happy. You usually need a reservation at weekends. Good
place for a simple pint of German beer too. QOpen 15:00
- 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PNSW
Indian
Haveli D-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211 03
90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, contact@haveli.ro, www.

haveli.ro. One of Bucharests best curry houses. Convincingly
authentic Indian cuisine served in a brightly decorated villa,
where the sauces are by nature toned down for locals but
where chef will - with pleasure - spice things up for the more
experienced Indian diner. We like the long list of vegetarian
dishes, of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato
and onion) is a particular favourite. The onion bhajis are good
too, while the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Does
home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00.
. PLVSW
Karishma D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021

252 51 57, office@karishma.ro, www.karishma.ro. A
good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu boasts no
fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these parts where
the raw material is so hard to find. There is much more besides of course, including an extensive range of vegetarian
food, and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes
according to your spice tolerance levels. The place itself is
nice and the staff know their stuff. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
. PVEBSW
International
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.
grandhotelcontinental.ro. Very interesting indeed. A restaurant
brave enough to admit that food in this part of the world is truly
Balkan, and that the edges between Serbian, Turkish, Greek,
Romanian and Bulgarian food can sometimes be very blurred
indeed. You will find a rich range of dishes on offer: all presented
on the menu in their original language. See you there. Q Open
12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:30. . PLGW
Barbizon Steak House A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pull-
man Bucharest World Trade Center), tel. (+4) 021 318

30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. Found at the Pullman,
this is probably the best eatery weve been to so far at this
particular top-notch hotel. As you would expect, steaks top
the bill, and what steaks! All the beef is shipped in fresh from
South America, and though prices reflect the quality you
will not argue at the end of the evening. Good wine list (we
like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is
always welcome. Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La
Boucherie. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30. Saturday
Brunch 11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under
10 free. . PLW
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021
224 10 04/(+4) 0745 00 36 60. We have been coming here

since the last century, when there was precious little choice in
Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little
Price Guide
(Based on a good meal with wine)
Expensive
(More than 30 per
person)
Not cheap
(20-30 per person)
Middling
(10-20 per person)
Cheap
(Less than 10 per person)
more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to

Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb
with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had
hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First class
cocktail list, and regular live music and arty events. Also of note
is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and
sells fantastic buffalo telemea cheese here at the restaurant.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLESW
Becas Kitchen C-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen.

ro. Following much the same path as that trodden by
Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a magnificent
place serving wonderful, home-cooked food. The place itself
is gorgeously simple in its decor, at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic, with the menu changing more or
less every day: check the blackboard for todays specials. You
can also buy homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. . PSW
Be Nat A-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www.
benat.ro. Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei
serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and
cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if they have it
- the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. Sit upstairs for
the best views of the street below. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGSW
Bistro Mon Cher B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98/(+4) 0731

27 38 20. One of those places that merits praise simply for
having been around for so long. Weve been coming here for
years, and have always loved the welcoming atmosphere and
simple, tasty bistro food. There is something for everyone,
from sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd to good coffee and

even hot chocolate for the kids. Leafy terrace in the right
weather. Q Open 08:00 - 06:00. . PVSW
Bistro Mon Cheri C-3, Str. Tudor Stefan 16, tel. (+4) 021
231 09 08, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Good little eatery on a
side street close to Piata Dorobanti. Good Romanian food served
in decent portions at fair prices. The ciolan afumat is always
cooked to perfection, and there are always plenty of tasty ciorbas
available too. Also usually has a number of seasonal specials.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLSW
Chez Marie
C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031
107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Popular with the crowd from
the UK embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez
Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are
likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with
gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we
have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests
very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
Concerto Restaurant C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand
Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01

03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine
dining stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with
the appearance of the Grand Continentals showcase dining
room, a match for any other in the city. This is the place to
come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a
long list of the worlds finest wines (from Romania, France,
Italy, Spain, South Africa, North and South America). The
setting is to die for, and the staff are knowledgeable about
both food and wine and will talk you through everything on the
menu.QOpen 12.00 - 23.00. . PLGW
43
44
Restaurants
Restaurants
Dacia Felix B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),

tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotelbucharest. The Radisson Blu opens its the cracking breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers: simply turn up
before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day. Q Open
06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. . PLEGSW
a great choice for families or groups on the run. The wine list
remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than
ever. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30,
177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years half price,
children under six free. . PEGSW
Doncafe Brasserie B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746
133, tel. (+4) 0733 24 20 67, reservation@casavernescu.com, www.casavernescu.com. One of two new
restaurants at the recently renovated and reopened Casa
Vernescu, one of Bucharests most historic buildings. Built in
1820 it carries the name of a politician, Gheorghe Vernescu,
who bought it from the state in 1886, and had it extensively
remodelled over a two-year period from 1887-9. It was at
this time that the majority of the stunning interior frescoes
were added. Fortunately, the food more than lives up to the
surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLEXSW
22 24 44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Magnificent place

just off Piata Dorobanti. Open early for breakfast (they do a
decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) its busy
throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business
types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads,
a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade:
it is put together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and
a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. You
go pick your own. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. . PLSW
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55
La Collonade (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei
56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Bright and airy place

that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. Fine
food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an
outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of
Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. .
PVBSW
Le Theatre B-5, Str. George Enescu 2-4, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 74, www.letheatre.ro. A bit
of food with your jazz? Or a bit of jazz with your food? There is
always usually something happening at Le Theatre, and even
if there isnt, the food is enough to keep you here for most of
the evening. The lamb chops we ate were terrific: pink and
tender, and they went down well with a plate of fresh spinach.
Great atmosphere, good people, a decent choice for dinner.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PEBSW
La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),

tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, contact@laveranda.ro, www.
laveranda.ro. Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is
now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that)
and more about good quality, simple food for all the family.
The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes
Omnivores Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata

Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro.
Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central
Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose from each
day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try
and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or
four). You can take away if there is no space. The kind of

place Bucharest needs loads more of. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGSW
Paris Bucharest Brasserie A-1, P-ta Montreal 10

(Pullman Bucharest), tel. (+4) 021 202 16 34/(+4)
021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The Pullmans
bright and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch, and
offers a huge buffet packed with more than you could possibly
eat in one setting. Very good value. Q Open 06:00 - 10:00,
Tue-Thu 06:00 - 10:00, 12-14:30, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:00.
. PLGW
Restaurant 1880 C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54,
MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. One of the best hotel-based restaurants
in the city is this bright, smart place at the Capital Plaza.
The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and
the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored
the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was
as good as any weve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PBSW
Salt B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0737 37 77 37/(+4)
021 233 77 70, www.saltrestaurant.ro. Imagine a kind

of spacious, upmarket diner where great food is served in a
relaxed atmosphere by friendly staff and you are on the way to
Salt. Possibly the best thing to happen to Bucharests dining
scene this year, this newly opened restaurant is quirky and
fun. Serves everything from breakfast pancakes to (Bucharests best) waffles, with all sorts inbetween: gourmet burgers,
Argentine steaks, pizza, pasta and big salads. Also serves
Lebanese food, and Salt does an excellent set lunch menu
from Monday-Friday, for just 24 lei, and a Sunday Brunch with
live cooking from 12:00-16:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. . PiLBSW
Sofa Restaurant & Bistro Cafe C-2, B-dul Barbu
Vacarescu 241A, tel. (+4) 0756 10 05 00, www.gosofa.

ro. Sensational contemporary restaurant which caters during the day to the movers and shakers in the nearby office
buildings, while in the evening it becomes the eatery of choice
for Bucharests foodie set. Everything on the menu, from the
duck with foie gras to the saffron risotto with tempura prawns
is fantastic, and worth every penny. Theres a cheaper but
no less tasty bistro menu too. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant), 08:00 - 24:00 (Bistro Cafe). . PLESW
Teatro B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest
City Centre), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30,

www.novotel.com. Teatro is so-called because the Novotel
stands on the former site of Bucharests National Theatre,
the hotels main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch

or dinner. Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly)
served in bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice terrace
when the weather allows. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Sunday
Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for children under
12. . PTULGW
The Vinyard A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),

tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. The
feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this is now the hotels
flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where everything
is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias - who has been
here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based
around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find
something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu, and
a number of the dishes require waiter or audience - thats
you, diner - participation. An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PEW
Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231
40 77, www.uptown.ro. Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest
part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys wealthiest
people come here to eat. The real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when its raining
outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern
European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine
list. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure
you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity
if you want a table on the terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . PBSW
Italian
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36, www.caffe-citta.ro. Styled as

a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis here
is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron,
the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes
and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special:
go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any
number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the
kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. QOpen 11:00 23:30. . PLGBW
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
021 233 06 35, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable
dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, lets face it,
you dont see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Well
worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the
atmosphere, which demonstrates that top restaurants dont
have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
45
46
Restaurants
Restaurants
treats such as rabbit in a glorious wine sauce to fresh pasta

made right here on the premises, as well as choice cuts of
top imported salamis and cheese. Good range of wines at all
prices, and the service is a cut above the Bucharest norm.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PESW
Ristorante Il Calcio A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4) 0729

57 48 02, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to Trattoria
Il Calcio? Yes. For this is a ristorante, a notch up from trattoria.
Expect a more refined menu and surroundings, but the same
warm, friendly service and great value (if pricier) food youve come
to expect from the Il Calcio boys. This first Il Calcio restaurant
is in a lovely house on Strada Clucerului, quickly becoming something of a magnet for great places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLBSW
Casa di David B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021
232 47 15, www.casadidavid.ro. You can say what you
like about this legendary, high-class place (and most people
in Bucharest have some kind of opinion), but to us it remains
a very nice place to spend the evening, especially in good
weather when you can sit outside away from the television
screens. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck
breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and
outstandingly good, with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff are good and the wine list a
cracker. QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. . PLESW
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.cucinarestaurant.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott
is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the
best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. All of the
other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that
all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No fewer than 26
good Italian reds grace the wine menu. Q Open 12:30 - 16:00,
18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
Grano C-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 40, tel. (+4) 0731 14
81 87/(+4) 021 231 23 86, www.grano.ro. An Italian the

likes of which many of the other so-called Italian restaurants
in Bucharest can only dream of becoming. Serving simple yet
delicious food - such as the saffron risotto - that will have you
telling all your friends to come here, you can also buy many of
the special ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and
did we mention the chocolate cake? QOpen 09.30 - 22.00,
Sun 09.30 - 18.00. . PLESW
Jackieo Ristorante & Bar C-5, Str. Ion Otetelesanu
3A-3B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0772 22 21 00, www.

jackieo.ro. A new Italian restaurant in the city centre, which
makes good use of what has always been a rather unique

space (and which has been home to various successful
clubs over the years). Dedicated to the legend that is Jackie
Onassis expect plenty of portraits mixed with quirky yet stylish and rather classy decor. The food is good and in no way
overwhelmed by the surroundings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
. PLEBSW
La Gondola Str. Nicolae Caramfil 2C, tel. (+4) 0752 356

356, www.restaurant-lagondola.ro. Difficult to fault this place
in many ways. Built at great expense but with taste and style (its
all glass, and for once the views over the lake are not obscured
by enormous television screens) it is just about the best of the
Floreasca lake restaurants. The food is decent trattoria Italian
- theres some good fish on the menu - though it is perhaps a
tad expensive. Having said that, you should remember that you
are paying for the location as much as anything, and views like
this never come cheap. Go with a deep wallet and you will enjoy
it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . P
Modigliani Pasta/Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06.
An amazingly good restaurant. Boasting top chef Alfonso
Salvaggio in the kitchen, there is a new menu for each season,
and the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another
notch, all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is
made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish
beef or New Zealand lamb, and the wine is a selection of the
best the world has to offer. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sunday. . PLBW
Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, tel. (+4) 0728 60 22
83/(+4) 021 231 22 83, www.nonnamia.ro. Looks the
part, feels the part and - when the food arrives - you will
know that it tastes the part too. Very good Italian food, from
Robertos C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hil-
Vinoteca Opera A-6, Dr. Lister 1, MEroilor, tel. (+4)

0749 99 66 22, www.vinotecaopera.ro. Facing Bucharests Opera House (albeit across a large, busy square) this is
a very good seafood and Italian restaurant serving as wide a
range of fishy treats as you will find in Bucharest. The mussels
are good value at 32 lei for a half kilo portion, while the tuna
steak was equally impressive (and at 49 lei not as expensive
as other places in town). Good selection of non-seafood
meals, and the wine list is first class, offering something for
all pockets. QOpen 09.00 - 23.00. . PBSW
Japanese
Benihana B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50
30, www.hojoplaza.ro/en/benihana. With cracking new
ton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, A fabulous place. Boasting an

open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining
room, Robertos also now has a new chef: Marco Magri. The
food is classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from
a number of Italian regions. Its not cheap, but prices reflect
the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact
very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its worth every penny:
this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Robertos
is also the home of the Hiltons now legendary and not-tobe-missed Lazy Sunday Afternoon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00,
12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 24:00. Lazy Sunday Afternoon from
12:00-16:00, 155 lei/pers. . PTGSW
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4, Str. Mendeleev 1,

MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup
that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza too,
the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well
without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note that downstairs
is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
Trattoria Il Calcio C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel.
(+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we

have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space in
the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit hit and
miss but the good - if not outstanding - Italian food at fantastic
prices makes this a good default choice for dinner. Stick to the
pizzas, salads, have a little patience and you will love the place.
Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Also at (C-4) Str.
Mendeleev 14, (+4) 0722 13 42 99; (I-4) Str. Delea Veche 36,
tel. (+4) 0726 01 03 83; (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120, tel (+4)
0728 63 99 06, Soseaua Nordului 7-9, tel (+4) 0724 70 66 65.
. PLBSW
47
48
Restaurants
Restaurants
Mediterranean
Cerisiers A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722
59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. We attended a

Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by
the quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and
fish dishes are the best of whats on the menu, but there is
more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef
carpaccio. As for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city. In the right weather of course. Q
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
NEW
Joseph by Joseph Hadad B-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan
menus specially put together for the season, this is a great

time to come and try the vast array of terrific Japanese
specialities on offer at Benihana. A staple on the Bucharest
dining scene for some years now, it is a tremendous mix of
the new, the daring and the traditional. Expert chefs and staff
will explain Japanese cuisine to newcomers, and the chances
are you will want to come more than once. Great value, and
perfect for big groups. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:30.
. PTULSW
Sushi Ko B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0736 88 86 88,
www.sushiko.ro. Three wonderful restaurants. The food is

fantastic, and the extensive menu covers every area of Japanese cuisine, from sushi to sashimi. The vibe is casual, the
set menus are great value, and staff are friendly and helpful,
taking time out to explain the finer points of Japanese dining
to beginners. All three locations are well worth a visit (one is
in the Old Town) and if you cant get there in person, theres
home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-6) Str.
Stavropoleos 8, tel. (+4) 0758 08 84 00, Open 12:00 - 24:00
and at Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City,
ground floor), tel. (+4) 0758 03 80 05, Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Home Delivery: Lipscani tel. (+4) 0747 87 44 56, Northern
Bucharest tel. (+4) 0744 34 44 44. . PLVSW
Yoshi Str. Banul Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95
21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Sushi and teppanyaki - and

more besides - at the best new Japanese restaurant to open
in Bucharest for some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti
it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very
good and the set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. The
place itself is spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00.
. PLVSW
Lebanese
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, office@cheztoni.ro, www.cheztoni.

ro. Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle
Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti
kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and
simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh
fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021 222
57 55/(+4) 0722 20 50 20, restaurant@piccolomondo.

ro, www.piccolomondo.ro. Lebanese food that is both
filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and well
made. Kebabs are one of the chefs strong points, and are
very tasty indeed. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on
a hookah pipe. Always packed so reserve a table. QOpen
10:30 - 24:30. . PLVBSW
Medieval
Crama Templierilor B-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu
3, tel. (+4) 021 311 63 60/(+4) 0725 73 93 98, office@cramatemplierilor.ro, www.cramatemplierilor.

ro. A medieval extravaganza of a restaurant where you can
sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King
Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval
favourites, from pork knuckles to home-made sausages and
juicy steaks. There is live music most nights from a top taraf
band, and its very difficult not to have a good time here.
Groups especially will love it, and your kids will too. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. . PVESW
Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33,

www.josephrestaurant.ro. Looking for gems such as a
homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get yourself
here. This is an outstanding place in every way: not only is
the food sensational - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but
there is more than a hint of France too - but the villa in which it
is served is also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief,
this is as good as modern, contemporary dining gets in this
city and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking of which,
the set two-course lunch is a bargain). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
Oliviers A-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 0733 10 91
37, www.restaurantoliviers.ro. Can a hotel restaurant be

this good? Yes. The ambitious owners of the Residence
hotel are very keen to promote their excellent restaurant, and
with good reason. A small but perfectly formed dining room is
the setting for a tantalising menu of Oriental, Mediterranean
and local dishes. The red tuna steak with capers is a treat.
The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding. QOpen 12:00 23:30. . PLW
Sharkia B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel.
(+4) 021 311 90 00. Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like

the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining
at the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what
we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern
Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and
supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of
dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines
and its all done with that magical Radisson swish. We love
it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG
Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80, tel. (+4) 0749 78 83
46/(+4) 031 437 97 29, www.studio-80.ro. For something a bit different in a location well away from the bustle of
the city centre it is worth trying the fare on offer here at Studio
80. A good range of food on offer, from good meats to fish and
sea food, and all done with a genuine Mediterranean twist.
Top wine list and prices are certainly reasonable. Worth the
trip. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVSW
Mexican/Tex Mex
El Torito C-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021 252
66 88, www.eltorito.ro. Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty
but free of frills. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city,
topped with lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no
fewer than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid
Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being dull:
cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled
with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main
course. In fact, beware: all the portions here are supersized.
Though you would be a fool to forego a nosh here, if you just fancy
a drink at the bar nobody seems to mind. Let the margaritas and
the mojitos flow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVESW
Modern European
Cafe Athenee C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.

com. We love it. This is Bucharests village pub, where the city
comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone,
from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton
burger remains one of the best in the city. There is also a bites
menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a
bigger, wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever,
which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as
it is at lunchtime. Q Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW
Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.primerestaurant.ro. Boasting a menu put together by Executive
Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen
here since Prime opened more than four years ago, what
is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish
Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it,
is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras
with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled
scallops and the lobster bisque. (And just about everything
else). Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last
penny. Q Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00.
Closed Sun. . PLG
Stadio C-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 11, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 312 24 92, www.stadio.ro. What started
life as a sports bar is now rather delightful contemporary
Italian-inspired restaurant, whose interior design is amongst
the most avant garde in the city. We loved the old kitchen appliances and Warhol-esque soup cans on the walls, and the
various different dining areas, not least of which is the huge
49
50
Restaurants
central atrium. The food is worthy the location and design:

good and often quite inventive: the cream of pea soup with
crispy bacon was a treat, and we were also rather delighted
to discover beef in Yorkshire pudding on the menu. There is
still a connection to the old Stadio in the form of the football
tables. We like the place a lot and think you will too. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PVNBSW
Romanian
Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021 650
50 00, www.bistrojaristea.ro. From the people who have long

brought you some of the citys finest Romanian food comes this
contemporary eatery for friends. Duck breast with sweet cabbage, smoked fish and potato salad, baked carp with garlic and
mamaliga are just a few of the great dishes you will find on the
menu. Add in a bright, breezy setting, good service, visinata by
the glass and you have a terrific place to spend most the evening.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVEBSW
Bistro La Taifas B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4)

021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. La Taifas means
having a chat and thats exactly what you and your friends
will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced
that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was
better, but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts
more regular musical soirees. The food is great. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. . PLVESW
Burebista Vanatoresc C-5, Str. Batistei 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 211 89 29, www.restaurantvanatoresc.ro. The smell of the wooden fixtures and fittings
could convince you that youre in the countryside, not metres
away from the city centre. Portions are good, the food tastes
Restaurants
super (good smoked meats, such as the smoked sausage

and white beans, and lovely fresh sarmale) and all have a
personal touch to their taste. Prices are more than reasonable. The live, loud folk band add to the party atmosphere.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLESW
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17, www.casadoina.ro. Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy
place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by
charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Boasts
a large, gorgeous leafy terrace in the right weather. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310

20 20. We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the
sarmale, and after careful consideration she admitted that they
were even better than her own: now thats high praise indeed. In a
top location on Bulevardul Magheru, if this place doesnt occupy
the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then
we dont know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch (usually
an excellent-value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously good. Oh, and
then there is the Sunday Brunch: currently the best in the city.
Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00
- 16:00, 175 lei/pers, children under six free, children between
six and 12 half price. . PTLEBW
Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6, B-
dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,
www.restauranttimes.ro. A very good restaurant indeed.
Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international

dishes, the menu here changes regularly, usually in time with
the seasons. The young chef is not afraid to try something
new and different and note that if you fancy something which
is not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine
list. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30. QOpen 12:00 23:00. . PLGSW
Hanu Berarilor Casa Elena Lupescu D-5, Str.
Pache Protopopescu 51, tel. (+4) 0725 00 80 05,

www.citygrill.ro/home-hanu-berarilor. Offering much the
same (such as great pork knuckle) as the Hanul Berarilor
closer to the city centre this place (run by the same people)
is located in a house that was once the property of Elena
Lupescu, mistress of King Carol II. Huge, set over two levels,
the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and garden,
which is superb in the right weather. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
Hanu Berarilor Casa Soare B-6, Str. Poenaru Bor-
dea 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09, (+4) 0729 40 08 00,

hanuberarilor.soare@citygrill.ro, www.hanuberarilor.ro.
Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a
book about) it is a very good Romanian restaurant serving
the kind of food you only usually get in peoples homes. Seriously: only in two or three other places in Bucharest will you
find carnati de oaie (mutton sausages) or bors de peste.
If you are feeling really hungry go for the platou mioritic: a
huge plate of meaty treats. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. . PEBSW
La Ceaunu Crapat C-4, B-dul Dacia 19, tel. (+4) 0746
78 35 64/(+4) 0724 33 22 91, laceaunucrapat@gmail.

com, www.laceaunucrapat.ro. The place to come in Bucharest for big portions of superb Romanian food cooked with
a bit more style than in the average Romanian restaurant.

Sarmale la ceaun and zacusca de fasole were two of the
dishes we ate and happily recommend. The desserts are not
to be overlooked either, and there are good value lunch menus.
Oh, and we should mention that it all gets served in superb
ethnic pottery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PLEBSW
La Cocosatu Str. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232

87 96, www.lacocosatu.ro. We put out an appeal on our
Facebook page for the best mici in the city. The response
was immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu uber alles. A
bit of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner
from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are
indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with loads
of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts prices. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52,
tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38, www.jaristea.ro. This is that
rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely
decorated dining rooms, service and choice of high quality
food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places
in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though
note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start
preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best
vintage wines Romania has ever produced. QOpen 11:00 02:00. . PLESW
Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
24 80, www.restaurantnicoresti.ro. Maybe we have been

harsh in the past with our reviews of Nicoresti. It is, after all,
one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city,
and given that the service - always our biggest problem with
51
52
Restaurants
out-of-the-ordinary soup, like potato and leek) while the a
la carte menu is a more extravagant affair featuring top
contemporary food. The shop sells funky gifts, while in the
loft there is a space for events: book readings and the like.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . VSW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75, www.vatra.ro. We

have been eating here for years and we cant recommend the
place highly enough. You really will have go a long way to find
better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced
restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park,
expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
Seafood
NEW
Cherhanaua Ancora B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4)
0721 33 55 55, www.ancora-cherhana.ro. Cherhana

in Romanian means fishery, so you will already know what
to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The interior is rather
special: bright and contemporary, with more than a hint of
local flavour. In a city now boasting more than a few seriously
good interiors, this is up with the best of them. The food is
very good too, from simple yet brilliantly executed local fish
dishes (hamsii, carp and pike) to more exotic fish shipped
in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass,
prawns, fresh tuna and much more. We should add that there
are some fine meat choices for those who are not fish fans.
Desserts as good as everything else. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
the place - has improved no end of late, we think it is about
time we give it another chance. We suggest you do the same,
for the food has always been very good. The ciolan de porc
(pork knuckle) with beans is legendary: ask anyone in the
city! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . PSW
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99, www.rossetya.ro. Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder than most to take
Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such, this is as upmarket
as Romanian food can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender
beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also
worth trying is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew
that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does
do vegetarian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. . PSW
Salonul Romanesc (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 733 24 20 67, www.casavernescu.
com. Superior Romanian food at a superior Romanian venue:
the magnificent Casa Lens-Vernescu, built in 1820 and
considered one of the finest houses ever built in Bucharest.
Like the location the food is excellent and perhaps not quite
as expensive as you might think given that you are eating in
a historical monument. Superb service and an outstanding
wine list too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLEXSW
Urbanesc D-5, Str. Stefan Luchian 17, tel. (+4) 021
313 77 16, www.urbanesc.ro. As fashionable as you like
and already attracting a crowd of urban trendsetters, this
restaurant/cafe/kind-of-shop is a nice mix of the old and
the new. The old is the house the place is set in, the new is
the rather funky design of the interior. The set-lunch deal is
great value at 25 lei (it changes every day and often features
some rather sophisticated dishes, and always includes an
Fishbone Lunch & Pub C-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu

fishbonegrill.ro. Another fish restaurant more than worth the
name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments
in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty
of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime
deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here
memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PESW
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. One of three

superb restaurants at the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed
inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden
outside: a joy in any weather. It serves deceptively simple yet
exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught,
and the chef will happily cook to order. Q Open 06:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30
- 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . PLEW
Mesogios C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021

313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39, www.mesogios.ro. A
businessmans dream. While Mesogios certainly doesnt get
any cheaper, the high standards here have ensured that it
remains packed with happy punters. Getting on for a decade
since it opened its dedication to seafood has not waned
for one moment, and we never leave disappointed (and we
come here as often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy
squid, lobster, prawns of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea
bass and a host of other wet treats. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00.
. PESW
Osho Fish B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021
311 88 26/(+4) 021 311 88 69, www.osho-restaurant.

ro. Doing for Bucharests fish supper scene what Osho did
54
Restaurants
for meat. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime, fresh
seafood cooked and prepared simply, with real class and with
great care for the natural flavour of the fish. Prices reflect the
high quality of the raw material, so charge it to expenses if
you can, for this is a faultless establishment we have grown
rather fond of. Get in there. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sun
10:30 - 22:00. . PVSW
Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan
16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56, www.taverna-lazavat.ro.

Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than
most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking
menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local
Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary
wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard
fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Spanish
Alioli Tapas B-5, Str. Popa Tatu 4, tel. (+4) 021 311 80
27, www.alioli.ro. Order yourself a San Miguel or a pitcher
of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail
bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to chat. Top
food includes the mussels, the paella, the osso bucco and
the gambas al ajillo. Excellent value.QOpen 12:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
Restaurant Nada Mas C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 16,
MPiata Romana/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 20 91,
www.nadamas.ro. Nice. A bright, spacious and thoroughly
modern eatery behind the Ateneu. For starters, take either
the gazpacho (as good as it should be) or the mix of Spanish
hams and sausages before moving on to the decent choice
of seafood or meat main courses. We ate the very good oxtail
- which we have not seen on a menu for years - as well as a
portion of paella, which was richly packed with seafood. Then
throw in some walnut tostados for dessert if you have room.
At lunchtime there are very well-priced set menus. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . PLESW
Steak Houses
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor,

tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW
Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses: the
JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to
open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse
experience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from
the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo
- is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides,
Restaurants
Slow Food
Vegetarian
Beautyfood C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel.

(+4) 0759 03 06 09, www.beauty-food.ro. Love it.
Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old Violetas. Check the
blackboard for whats on the menu - if they have it we can
recommend the burger with the home fries. Always has
a good lunchtime deal on: two delicious courses usually
priced around 20 lei. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. .
Casa Satya A-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4)

0736 39 25 87, office@satya.ro, www.satya.ro.
Where do you start when reviewing a place as revolutionary as this? The concept is Ayurveda, as in the mix life
and science. Ayuvedic principles have long been applied
to alternative medicine, now it is developing into cuisine,
and that is what we have here. Everything on the menu is
toxin free, so no meat, but there is plenty of seafood, and
everything is made with only fresh, organic ingredients.
Amazingly, that does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the poppadoms will convince
you of that right from the off. The toilets by the way are
amazing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVGBSW
Metuka B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Ro-
mana, tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46. Slow Food in every

sense of the phrase: the food is seasonal, all prepared
fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also
comes at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers.
The menu changes every day, but there is always a good
choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and
more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. . PVSW
NEW
The London Street Bistro C-3, Str. Putul Lui
Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.com. The London Street Atelier has
been making delicious home-made food for those in the
know for a while, and now there is this rather super little
bistro to go with it. Expect a menu that changes weekly,
fresh, seasonal ingredients and a whole host of inventive
treats you will not find elsewhere (we were lucky enough
to hit upon some Feteasca Neagra sausages). Not as
expensive as it probably should be, theres a great set
lunch deal each day which includes - unlike many others in
this town - a glass of wine. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. Closed
Sun. . VBW
Violetas Bistro D-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel.
(+4) 0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. The concept is

great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food
(the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod
towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes
regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always
up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before
setting off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The
brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value
at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free. The place
itself (now in a new location) is lovely, the staff wonderful
and as a whole it is just so un-Bucharest that you will want
to squeeze it and hug it. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30
- 22:30. Closed Sun. . PGBSW
comes in three sizes) and tangy lamb chops, and take note
that all the meat is Romanian. Plus, theres a kids menu. We
also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the
prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest)
they are more than reasonable considering you get the best
of the best. Packed at lunchtime. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30,
Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PVBSW
Vacamuuu C-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35

11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Currently the most talkedabout chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so
wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will
be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops,
while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a
kids menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet
is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home
and cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the wine
list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you come
here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PiTSW
Thai
Kunnai Str. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4)
0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.ro. At last, place for those

of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods
closed a while ago now. This place is terrific, found on the
ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern
part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the
food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew
Waanfish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were
sensational and well worth the money (its good value if not
exactly cheap). Get there now. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Last
kitchen order 23:00. . PTLSW
including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is

a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for
breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict are a
great option to start the day with. Q Open 06:30 - 11:00,
12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children
between six and twelve half price, children under six free.
. PLESW
Golden Falcon C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4)
021 314 28 25, www.goldenfalcon.ro. Still the greatest

kebab house in the land, and still packing in the punters who
come back time and again. There are no menus here: instead
the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to
pick from, before coming round with the kebabs: pick which
one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen.
We usually always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
Urban Contemporary
Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the
new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern,
well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without
ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off
in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that
whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is
a great restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 02:00. . PLSW
For restaurants in
Bucharests Old Town
see pages 72-87
Osho B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4)

021 568 30 31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Sometimes
when writing a review, all you really want to write is this place
is brilliant. This is a butchers shop and restaurant serving
T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more
than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger (which
Turkish
55
56
cafs
Aristocats Bistro C-5, Str. Teodor Stefanescu 1, tel.

(+4) 0758 90 05 82. Charming, in a word. Set in a gorgeous
old Bucharest house its like a coffee shop and tea house
and bistro and much more besides. Huge big omelettes for
breakfast, soups at lunchtime, freshly made pasta for dinner:
the menu changes all the time so just ask whats good the
day you go. Oh, and they have muffins, wonderful muffins. Its
also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PLESW
Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel.
(+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Free Wifi with
your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who
appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need
their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place
that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter
how busy you are. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PLESW
Cafe Verona C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. Sublime. The

brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with
its books, and now there is wine; and cocktails too. And if
there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre
of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. For long
lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings with friends it is great,
while for brunch it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative
to the big, expensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is
a good idea. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PSW
Caffe & Latte B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 35, tel. (+4)
031 415 85 51, www.caffe-latte.ro. We have been coming

here for years and still love it. A cafe, bar and bistro serving
superb coffee, tea, cocktails, cakes and panini, as well as
CAFs
some very good light meals: the salads are legendary. Opens
early for breakfast (we recommend the omelettes) and the
setting opposite Cismigiu is special. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. PTW
Camera din Fata C-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021
311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. One of the best cafes

to open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room,
and being here is in many ways just like being somebodys
front room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from
gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world
pops in for espresso on its way to work. Lovely. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW
Green Tea D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320 93
96, www.greentea.ro. Magnificent. We know that there have

been tea houses in Bucharest before, but none were ever like
this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have all been lovingly
decorated in a different theme (one is like your favourite Grans
front room, another is like a country house) the list of teas available is as long as your arm. Some are very exotic indeed. And yes,
besides taking tea here, you can buy just about all of the teas in
the shop. Brilliant, find someone special and go there immediately.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW
Kafeterya Cafe B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor,

tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67, www.kafeterya.ro. We know
people who come here so often, and spend so much time
here, that they should probably be paying rent. It is that kind
of place: a friendly, local cafe serving top coffee, cocktails,
light meals, salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are
probably the best in Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas
and armchairs, and we can guarantee that one visit will not
be enough. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PESW
La Galette A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 33,

www.pullmanhotels.com. Classy cafe and patisserie at the
Pullman, a popular choice with guests and office workers from
the World Trade Center. The range of pastries is just about
second to none in Bucharest, while the coffees are great value
for what is after all a five-star hotel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW
Lente & Cafea D-5, Str. Arcului 2, tel. (+4) 021 210
96 96, www.lente.ro. While best-loved as a summer venue

(the large garden/courtyard is delightful) this charming place
should not be overlooked during the colder months either.
The food is excellent, a cut above the Bucharest average.
The salads are big and tasty and there is a surprisingly good
range of beef dishes, although best of all we liked the gulas
soup. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. V
Music Rooms Cafe D-4, B-dul Dacia 32, MPiata Ro-
mana, tel. (+4) 0726 53 73 78. Three rooms offering three

different kinds of music: jazz/rock, Cuban and chillout. There is
funky decor in all three, the prices are very good considering the
location (just off Piata Romana, opposite the Howard Johnson
hotel) and the crowd that congregates here is fun and trendy yet
never tiresomely so. Definitely worth checking out at any time of
day. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PSW
Origo C-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. A con-
tender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest. This place
is all about great coffee from all over the world, as well as a fairly
decent selection of tea too. Many of the more exotic coffees can
be bought by the packet to make at home, and the design of
the place is not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down
over the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails
and inside it is totally non-smoking. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Sat
09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW
Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97,

MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the great things about the
Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor, a
modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great
coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The breakfast is
terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and
the pasta light. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well
separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Nice. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW
Serendipity Tea House C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie

serendipity-tea.ro. Tea, and lots of it. There are more than
55 types of tea available, including the trademark Serendipity, an aromatic yet fruity green tea with more than a hint of
strawberries. A quiet location just off an otherwise busy central
street make this a superb choice for long, peaceful afternoons
reading a good book with a great cup of tea or two. Oh, and
we should point out that the coffee menu is not bad either.
QOpen 14:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. TEGW
Tekaffe B-4, Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels), MGara

de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, andrei.cristudor@
hellohotels.ro. The in-house cafe at the Hello Hotel is as
smart, cheap and good value as the hotel itself. Serves good
coffee, pastries and the like, and all with added Wifi. A more
than decent meeting place. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun
11:30 - 22:00. PLSW
Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80, office@tonka.ro, www.
tonka.ro. This place has indeed got soul, and plenty else
besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes the
perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then gets
really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter.
Theres a good internet cafe in the basement. Q Open 24hrs.
PRESW
Una B-5, Str. Dona Nicolae 18, tel. (+4) 0743 09 59 65.
Not a cafe, not a bar, not a pub. This is a bright, happy place
for all sorts of events, from karaoke evenings to childrens craft
fairs, poetry evenings to film nights. Oh, and we forgot to mention the dance classes and exhibitions. Check their website
to see whats on when: chances are it will be something well
worth checking out. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. G
Vienna Lounge B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01.
The Marriotts posh flagship caf, which is exactly as youd
expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to read
those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying
the occasional live piano music, plus the sight of business
types buzzing about to conferences. Whats more fun than
leisurely watching others work when you dont have to?
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PLESW
Subsol Bar C-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniversi-
tate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. Perhaps

Bucharests most iconic building. Inside the shell of an old house
destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen,
home to Romanias architectural association. The cafe and bar
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its
location, a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes
from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee and cocktails in
the company of a good young crowd. There are tasty sandwiches
too, which can be taken away. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
57
Nightlife
58
Nightlife
sunny terrace out back, but the big draw here are the board
games: tens of them, everything from Scrabble to Cluedo.
QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00,
Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PNBW
Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4, Str. Comanita 5, tel. (+4) 0730
88 33 77. The odd Ikea coffee table aside (and lets face it, who
hasnt got at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these days?),
Pillow is the kind of place we like to see opening up. It is cool
without being pretentious, serves Illy coffee and has a couple of
tables that double as beds, hence the name. It is in fact the kind
of place where you could happily enjoy an exotic smoke, though
as this is Bucharest, not Amsterdam, the smoke will be limited
to tangy Middle Eastern tobaccos taken through a narghilea.
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PLW
Bars
By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little
else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks
may be available). By Pubs we mean venues where you
can drink and get half-decent food.
NEW
Bar A1 B-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0723 12 48 47. A little bit of everything in a very nice

package. Food (including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes
are fab, there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the
wine selection is better than your average wine bar) and
cakes that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is
delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd
that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place.
QOpen 8:00 - 00:30. NS
Casa Vernescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 0733

24 20 67, www.casavernescu.ro. Besides the two new
restaurants the Casa Vernescu is also home to four - count
them - nightlife venues. Theres the Lounge & Club, the Wine &
Champagne Bar, the Cigar Club and the After Party Saloon. All
have much to offer, not least the Wine & Champagne Bar, which
boasts a sensational selection of top grape. Q Lounge & Club
Open 23:00-05:00. Wine & Champagne Bar Open 12:00-24:00.
Closed Sun. Cigar Club Open 12:00-24:00. Closed Sun. After Party
Saloon Open 23:00-10:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
English Bar C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. One of our

regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever
be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for
nearly a century, as long as the hotel) remains today a classy
bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides
Pubs
(including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days
with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated,
carefully-chosen theme parties, and on some Thursday
nights - when it hosts great theme parties - this little bar
becomes the most happening venue in town, a favourite of
Bucharests fashionistas. Essential, get here now. Q Open
17:00 - 02:00. PLW
Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4

(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the
lobby of the Inter, which was a den of iniquity and intrigue
during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots
and honey traps. Now its merely a very cool place to meet
and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the
many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one
of the top places in Bucharest to spend time. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00. PLEW
Ludic C-5, Str. Coltei 50, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031
438 01 79. Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which
while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular venue
indeed. Serving beer, cocktails and coffee there is a nice
Europes Smoking Section

Last year, flying in the face of what the rest of the
civilised world is up to, Romania actually softened its
existing anti-smoking legislation. In fact, to all intents
and purposes, there will soon be no more anti-smoking
rules in Romania. This really is The Smoking Section
of Europe.
You see, while smoking will as planned now be
theoretically outlawed in all public spaces (thats
the headline which they will send to the EU), the owners
of those public spaces will now be able to override
the law and decide for themselves if a place is to be
designated smoking or non-smoking. If a place decides
to designate itself as a smoking venue (and lets face
it, they almost all will) under the new law it will not even
have to have a non-smoking section.
As such, in our listings we have only included a nonsmoking symbol where a venue is completely nonsmoking. (There arent many). Otherwise, assume that
venues will allow smoking almost anywhere. While most
will - for now - retain at least a token non-smoking section,
this can often be just one table in a corner somewhere.
Note that when it comes to hotels, we have used the
non-smoking symbol to indicate those hotels which have
fully non-smoking rooms.
Berarie Gambrinus B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.berariegambrinus.
ro. One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest
- haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other
local carouser - returns, this time as something of a Heinekenpub. There is Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva
and Ciuc, available by the metre if thats what you fancy. Theres
some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and theres even a non-smoking
section. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PSW
Dubliner A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 260 26 78. Legendary boozer in the sense

that it was the first real pub to open in Bucharest (back in
1995). Unchanged in years the Dubliner remains a favourite
of many old school expats, although the location makes it a
bit of a trek for Old Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves
a good chicken pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW
Casinos
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@
casinobucharest.ro, w w w.casinobucharest.ro.
QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PLK
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403

08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www.
grandcasinoromania.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
Metropolis Casino B-5, Str. Calea Victoriei 37B
Energiea B-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. We like this place
a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice
day and night, the original (we think?) floor looks great and
there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry
the industrial-chic look of the main bar. Best of all though we
like the raised interior balcony. Top cocktail-sipping territory.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW
La Calderon 80 C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4)
021 212 48 86, www.lacalderon80.ro. With its wooden
interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered
around big tables, La 80 does much to distinguish itself
from a swathe of similar establishments. Reasonable food
and prices, and this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is
a nice retreat from more frantic venues elsewhere. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. PBSW
son Blu), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4) 0720 22 74

66, platinum@platinumcasino.ro, www.platinumcasino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PLK
Primus B-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana,

tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Big pub that
goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need
to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From
the very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint
of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own beer,
Primus, a decent-tasting bargain. The huge windows make
it feel much like a street cafe. Service is good too, and we
love the retro-style black and white tiled floor. QOpen 09:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PBW
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard
Shift C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021
(Novotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0742 07 91 19,

(+4) 0742 07 91 20/(+4) 021 367 34 12, contact@
metropoliscasinobucharest.ro, www.metropoliscasinobucharest.ro. Q Open 24hrs. PLKW
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radis-
Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4)

0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Q Open 24
hrs. PRULKW
211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Its doubtful that youve

seen anything like this place in Bucharest before. Shift is a
Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a word,
gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with the
59
60
Nightlife
hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this
is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just
about everybody else) love it. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW
Terminus B-5, Str. George Enescu 5, MPiata Romana,

tel. (+4) 021 318 16 67, www.terminus.ro. Pub/bar on the
ground floor, while downstairs there is a basement bar which
becomes more a nightclub with an industrial feel as the evening
wears on. Theres a big bar and getting a drink - once not easy - is
now a joy thanks to top staff. The central location right between
the Radisson and Hilton guarantees it a steady flow of thirsty
visitors. Guinness on tap. QOpen 09:30 - 04:00, Sat, Sun
09:30 - 06:00. PW
White Horse B-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4)
021 231 27 95, www.whitehorse.ro. The White Horse
has been around so long it should probably consider going
out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in
surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the
ordinary people variety, as well as group of rowdy expats.
There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with
bar snacks served down. We have always loved the square
bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PBSW
Clubs & Discos

BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a fairly

nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but
once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with
great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is
plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and
even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You
will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is
only open twice a week.QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEBW
Chaos E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51
14, www.facebook.com/chaos.venue. Smashing live

music club. Expect good - mainly local but often foreign - live
acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably big name
performing at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very
good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends
looking for a great night out. You can eat here too: theres
a restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned Romanian
food on site. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. PLEBSW
Control Club C-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Still
tops our list of clubs for people who do not like clubs. It is a
Nightlife
Vice Advice
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops
per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you
could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital
of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that
prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it
certainly isnt, despite any and all appearances.
This being Romania however, the law is more a minor
obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you
can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you
like, though discretion remains essential.
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically
have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not
exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend)
is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at
these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from
simple hand assistance to full body massage from one,
two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around
50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious
establishments.
The second (and not-always-above-board) option
is to simply head for a brothel (surely erotic nightclub?
Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy
publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as
fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very dodgy, and
often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself
down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before
being joined by some very bored and not always attractive
young ladies (most of Romanias best-looking prostitutes
are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech
Republic). These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and
always try to convince you to buy them cocktails (in fact
orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about 15).
After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if
you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually
a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of
whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100,
as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of the
tab you have already run up of course.
But be careful. Not all of these night clubs are worth
your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical
harm. A recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a
group of American soldiers were recently beaten up in one
such establishment (apparently on Str. Ion Campineanu,
opposite the Novotel) after refusing to pay a bill of
3,000. Approach all night clubs with caution: check the
adult entertainment section of our website: bucharest.
inyourpocket.com for a list of those we can vouch for.
The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one
of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality
city guides found around town. These escorts are usually
unattractive prostitutes who charge 150 upwards for
sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old
with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large
everything) are commonplace, and you should really think
twice before calling them.
brilliant place where there is always something going on, be

it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live
acts. Note also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub
as much as a club, and when the weather is good enough it
has a smart terrace. Fantastic. QOpen 13:00 - 03:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22/(+4) 0721 91 82 79, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that goes from strength to strength. Still
the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open
during the day for food too: you could spend your whole life
in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails,
some of which involve fire, and a few which involve wearing a
World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at least
one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into
your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed and the
small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will
love it. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PENW
Expirat & OtherSide Club B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4,
MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726

80 41 42, www.expirat.org. A club with two faces. Expirat
is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic sounds, and as
it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a club), chances
are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. The
music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae
and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check
the venues Facebook page to see whats on the night you
fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars
meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served.
Top notch. Q Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
(Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The
OtherSide). PEW
Fratelli Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.
fratelli.ro. Top notch. One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where

the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and
be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both
Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this
place consider the music to be as important as anything else:
something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind
of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table (which
requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
Kristal Glam Club B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, www.clubkristal.ro.
Bucharests longest-running uber-club, still probably your first
reference point for top international DJs and hedonistic nights
out in the Romanian capital. It has been in a few locations over
the years, but the latest, in a converted cinema close to the city
centre is - in our opinion - the best yet. Whats more, unlike a few
clubs of the upmarket kind, which are merely for posing, Kristal
has a proper dance floor for those who actually like to enjoy
themselves. Get in there. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW
Kulturhaus C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.
ro. The student favourite. A nakedly non-commercial club
that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two levels
offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs,
and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on
the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags
of other events and refreshingly says NO to table service:
yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a
drink. We are fans. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PLE
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WHat to see
Nightlife
Jazz Clubs
Art Jazz Club B-4, Calea Victoriei 52, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0731 64 59 18, www.artjazzclub.ro.

Art Jazz Club hosts three or four jazz concerts every
week. The quality of the music is almost always good,
and the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area. Entrance is actually through a small door next to a little car
park behind the Senate, rather than on Balcescu as the
address suggests. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. PENW
Green Hours Jazz Caf B-4, Calea Victoriei 120, tel.

(+4) 0788 45 24 85, www.greenhours.ro. There is live
jazz here alongside and other arty stuff - including theatre,
comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular
with a crowd that encompasses all ages, its definitely a place
you should visit once before leaving Bucharest. QCafe open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Check the venues website
for concert details. PENBW
Moonlight Club C-4, Str. Mendeleev 32, tel. (+4) 0724
75 13 51. Now prefaced by Moonlight, this is still in many

ways the Downtown as many will remember it, complete
with girls dancing on the bar in their underwear and some
of the liveliest theme nights in the city. Big and cavernous it
nevertheless always seems to be packed out, a sign of its
enduring popularity. Hosts regular events, including stand-up
comedy (of the Romanian variety). QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.
Closed Sun. PLEW
Panic! C-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0766 05 61 70, www.panic-club.ro. Panic!, possibly the

first club in Bucharest named after a song by The Smiths,
offers a mix of music centering on alternative rock. There are
plenty of live acts performing regularly and theres always a
good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly,
its open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest
are not) and there is always, always something going on. Get
in. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
The Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel.

(+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro. A great place to
see good local bands. Looking (inside) very much like a, well.
silver church (albeit one which has dropped plenty of acid),
its a cavernous venue with terrific acoustics and it is this
mix of big club/small concert hall that gives it the edge over
some other venues. So good is the sound that the biggest
local bands are playing here simply for the hell of it. A winner.
QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PUE
Herastrau Park
B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor. Anyone who still
thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete and cement
has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incomparable
Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious park, spread
over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the
jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half
of the city chooses to spend its summer Sunday afternoons here. Fear not though, for so big is Herastrau that
it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even
on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a
quiet, shady corner somewhere. If you look hard enough.
There is a ton to do in Herastrau, far more than
most people - including locals - realise. The park has
two main entrances, although by far the most elegant
is that which borders Piata Charles de Gaulle. It is also
conveniently located close to Aviatorilor metro station.
The other entrance, at the far end of Soseaua Kisellef,
opposite Casa Scanteii, is better for those coming by
car as there is some (but not a lot) of parking available.
The first thing you will see when entering the park
from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre
statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is
the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was
commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting that year of the Francophonie
conference. A Romanian newspaper, Adevarul, named it
the third ugliest statue in the city in 2010. Still, it could
be worse: between 1952 and 1961 a statue of Stalin
stood on the same spot.
Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure
honoured in this part of the park with a statue or bust,
however. In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out
from the entrance are all dotted with famous people, from
Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look
out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin
Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as writers George
Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet,
Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured with statues
include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi
and Victor Hugo. Oh, and theres a memorial to Michael
Jackson too. Yes, really. One of the more recent additions to Herastrau is the Reef Aquarium. There are two
exhibitions, which together feature more than 300 kinds
of fish and sealife, as well as 100 marine plants. You can
find the aquarium at the end of the long promenade that
leads into the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle. Its open
daily from 10:00-18:00, and admission costs 10 lei for
adults, 8 lei for children over three (the under threes are
free).
There are boat trips on the lake throughout the summer, as well as a shuttle that links one side to the other.
Boat trips depart from the quay (debarcader) behind the
Hard Rock Cafe. To get there from the main entrance you
need to cross what is known as the Insula Trandafirilor
(Island of the Roses). At the right time of year the paths
are quite literally lined with roses and its one of the most
gorgeous sights in Bucharest. Look out too for the exotic
birds kept on the island.
Cyclists and joggers should note that the path which
circumnavigates the lake is just under 6km in length.
Swimming in the lake is strictly forbidden, although you
will often see local kids taking a dip.
During the summer you can rent bikes from La Pedale,
close to the entrance. Rental is free but limited to two
hours. You will need ID.
Essential Bucharest
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days
should be the Old Town. After that you can head for the sights
we list here. The Peasant and Village Museums should
take priority, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History
Museum. The most famous building in the city and usually
top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/Palatul
Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down, but is a must
nevertheless. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon
at the National Art Museum, while last but not least, the
Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary,
artistic and political history.
Botanical Gardens Sos. Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica,

tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.ro. For
locals, this is one of the citys most popular attractions.
Attracted by its relatively central location, easy parking
on surrounding streets, cheap entrance fee and most
of all by the fabulous greenhouses, the garden is a
gorgeous place and is packed at weekends. The garden,
administratively part of Bucharest Universitys Botanical
Institute, was founded in 1860 and today extends over
an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than
10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are
cultivated in the impressive glasshouses.
It is straight for the glasshouses that most people head
from the main entrance, for they keep short hours. Most
of the glasshouses have been renovated (or even entirely
rebuilt) over the past couple of years, and they look better
than ever. They get gradually hotter as you move around
them, and the plants within them increasingly weird and
exotic. Captioning is good: the origins of each plant are given
in almost all cases, and the whole experience of walking
through the greenhouse complex is at once pleasant and
fascinating. Kids will find plenty to keep them occupied, not
least the cacti and the rather impressive collection of venus
fly traps. The rest of the Botanical Garden is a vast expanse
of various flora, from micro-forests to flower gardens, some
more impressive than others, but all with merit. The plants
are divided into their geographical areas of origin, be it
Romania or further afield. As with the glasshouses, captions
and display boards are excellent throughout (some are even
in English as well as Romanian). Look out for squirrels, and
worry not about dogs: we explored more or less the whole
garden and saw not a single stray mutt. The Botanical Garden
is also home to the Botanical Museum.Q Gardens open
08:00-20:00. Botanical Museum open 10:00-15:00, 09:0013:00 Sat, Sun, closed Fri. Greenhouses open 10:00-13:00,
closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei,
students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
Casa Poporului (Parliament Palace; Palatul Parlamentului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, MIzvor, tel. (+4)
021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. What is unquestionably

Romanias most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest
days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above
ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded
in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed to
house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today
plays host to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well
equipped conference centre, as well as Romanias Museum
of Contemporary Art. Much of the building, however, remains
unused. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though
the commentary often consists of little more than a guide
reeling off endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of
grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms,
Sightseeing Buses
While Bucharest does not pack the tourist punch of
some European capitals, there is nevertheless plenty
to see in the Romanian capital, and every summer an
RATB initiative gives visitors the opportunity to take
in the citys major sights from the top of an open-top
double-decker bus*.
The buses run from 10:00 to 21:00 along a circuitous route from Casa Scanteii to Piata Unirii and
back, taking in Bulevardul Kiseleff, Calea Victoriei,
Bulevardul Libertatii, Casa Poporului, Bulevardul
Unirii, Bulevardul I.C. Bratianu, Bulevardul Magheru,
Ana Ipatescu and Bulevardul Aviatorilor. The buses
make frequent stops at all of the major sights along the
route, and should run at 17-18 minute intervals, although
sometimes you might have to wait a little bit longer.
Tickets (which cost 25 lei for adults, 10 lei for children,
and can be bought on board, or at selected hotels) are
valid until midnight on the day of purchase, allowing
you to hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like
throughout the day. You do, however, need to validate
the tickets each time you board a bus. Headphones offer
basic recorded commentary in a number of languages.
*In previous years, once the weather becomes too
cold, the open-top buses have been replaced by a
standard Bucharest bus, number 761, which runs
along the same route at the same times. As we went
to press we had been unable to confirm if this would
also be the case this winter.
while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to
go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central
Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in
advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring
your passport, driving license or other form of internationally
accepted ID. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the
palace (if youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is probably the
nearest metro station, but youll get a better view from Piata
Unirii. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25
lei adults, 13 lei students (standard tour); 30 lei adults, 13
lei students (standard and basement); 35 lei adults, 18 lei
students (standard and terrace); 45 lei adults, 23 lei students
(standard, terrace and basement). Free for children under 18
and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by
those with cameras, either still or video.
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George

Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel.
(+4) 021 318 14 50, www.georgeenescu.ro. Mistakenly

believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescus
former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact
built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many
older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino
Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his
life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia
and artefacts from the eventful life of Romanias most famous
composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music
in general. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6
lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month.
Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History (Muzeul

de Istorie Natural Grigore Antipa) B-3, os. Kiseleff
1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.

antipa.ro. One of Romanias finest museums, and one of
the best natural history museums in Europe, which recently
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What to see
What to see
Village Museum (Muzeul Naional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
Bellu Cemetery
(+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding.

Founded by Royal Decree in 1936, and covering some 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul Satului is one of
the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more
than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and
churches from all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania,
Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque
showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some
even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the
stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most
of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are
some, such as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date
from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably
the steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete
with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the
earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with
thatched roofs, or the brightly painted dwellings of the Danube
Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall
selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has
a restaurant, La Francu, set in an original 19th-century inn.
Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family
outing. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Admission
10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides
available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish,
Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance). Note that while the
museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not.
Calea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4)

021 636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s,
this is Bucharests most historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic,
scientist, artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of,
as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot,
usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is
that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, tragically
killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could
spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones,
memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You
should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps
the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s
in the style of the cathedral at Karlovy Vary and boasting
stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is the
Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during
the 1989 revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
benefited from a three year, 14 million refit. Packed with
terrific exhibits (including the obligatory dinosaur skeletons)
which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied
for the best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on,
interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in
the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of
animal and plant life native to Romania. The building which
houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at
the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who
then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until
his death in 1944. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. From
November 1 Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
15 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de

Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30
30/(+4) 021 314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. The countrys largest, and most impressive art collection is housed
inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a
private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. When his
sons fell into financial ruin some years later, they were forced
to sell the building to the state, which carried out huge modifications, adding a number of new wings. It became a royal
residence in 1859, when it became the site of the court of
the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza.
Although slightly remodelled in the 1930s, the building we see
today is more or less the original. There are two permanent
galleries, split over three floors of the main building. National
Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring
icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and
fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all
of Romanias greatest 20th century artists well represented,
including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe
Patracu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paint-
Buildings with a history

ings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection
of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. The
museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions,
currently including frescoes from the Arges Monastery, and
the works of Carol Popp de Szathmri and the artistic revelation of the Orient. Essential. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art,
10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15
lei for combined tickets (both galleries).
Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3,
os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96

61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. The Peasant Museum
is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one of the best
in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed
by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti, dating from 1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know
about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the
Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are
exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from
handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful
religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas
of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent
museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was
home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian
Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation
exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also
puts on childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30
and 12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and has a terrace cafe.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00.
Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei.
There are audioguides available in English, French, German and
Romanian from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every
month or so in the rear courtyard) usually costs around 6 lei.
Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings,

which fit none of our other categories all that well. As a
result, weve thrown them all together here, under the
heading Buildings with a history.
Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor.

Bucharests Arc de Triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate
Romanias World War I dead. The original Arc was made of wood,
replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete
structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a
staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top
of the monument, though it is closed most of the time and only
opened on special occasions (usually on national holidays). The
sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument were created
by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin
Medrea and Constantin Baraschi.
Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin
1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly the

finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime
baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the citys busiest
public square, competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel,
the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The
work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the
National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated
by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called Give
a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued
the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds.
Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu,
the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably, and is
renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics.
Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scnteii) A-1, Piata Presei

Libere 1. An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is
still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu
and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar
(though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost
all of the capitals newspapers, it today carries out much the
same function. Jurnalul Naional, one of the countrys most
popular dailies, is just one newspaper still produced here.
The facade - once rather fetching - has in recent years been
defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings.
CEC (Palatul Casei de Economii si Consemnaiuni)
B-4, Calea Victoriei 13. The home of the National Savings

Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one
of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the
enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty
Corinthian columns, is a highlight of any architectural tour
of Bucharest. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth
century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau,
the building is no less impressive on the inside, not least the
huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome
that nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals.
Palatul din Piata Victoriei (Palatul Victoriei) B-4,

B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei. Today the home
of the Romanian government, this linear construction, with
its marble facade, was built in 1937 to the designs of Duiliu
Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now
elsewhere, on Aleea Alexandu, in a far less grand building).
Note that ever since several thousand uninvited coal miners
trashed the place in 1991, entrance to the building has been
granted only to those on government business.
Palatul Justitiei (Tribunalul Capitalei) B-6, Splailul
Independentei 5, MPiata Unirii. Romanias supreme court,

host to any number of libel trials involving our good selves, is
housed in a monumental building - the facade is 100 metres
long - on the banks of the Dambovita. Dating from 1890, the
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What to see
Palace of Justice was designed by Romanian architect Adrian
Ballu in the style of the French renaissance.
Sala Palatului B-5, Piata Palatului, www.salapalatului.ro.
The rather startling Sala Palatului, with its concaved roof, was
designed by Tiberiu Ricci and built over 15 months from January
1959 to April 1960 as an extension of the Royal Palace (to which
it is connected). The massive main auditorium, which seats
4,000, was originally used to host the five-yearly congress of the
Romanian Communist Party. It today plays host to exhibitions and
concerts. To make way for the building, and for the apartment
blocks opposite, a 17th century church was demolished: the first
of many to fall victim during the communist era.
Teatrul National (National Theatre) C-5, Piata 21

Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. A building in two parts, the
original National Theatre was built between 1967 and 1970, to
the design of three Romanian architects, Horia Maicu, Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu. Originally styled to honour the architecture
of Moldovas famous monasteries, it was unfortunately ruined in
1984-5 when the concrete casing that now stands gloomily in
the shadow of the InterContinental was placed over the earlier
structure. However, the rebuilding work currently being carried
out on the building (which is covered in scaffolding) is intended
to return the National Theatre to its original design by the end
of this year. The odd statue in front of the theatre is called the
Caruta cu paiate, a tribute to playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale.
Universitate (University of Bucharest) C-5, Piata
Universitatii, MUniversitate. Standing moodily over Piata
Universitatii is the main building of the University of Bucharest. It was built over a twelve year period from 1857 to
1869. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities
and Science), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters
and Languages, as well as the universitys administrative
departments. The central corp of the building was entirely
rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy
allied bombing during 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica
of the original, many sculptures by Carol Storck were deemed
irreplaceable and lost forever.
Bucharests Historic Churches

Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6, Str. Antim
29. The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the
orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox
Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the
monastery to be a refuge for fallen women, and refugees, as
well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we today
Sibiu In Your Pocket

Map Hotels Restaurants bars sights
sibiu
MiNi-GuiDE
issue N 7 Aug-Oct 2013
Complimentary Copy
www.inyourpocket.com
European Capital of Culture in 2007,

the magnificent Transylvanian city of
Sibiu has long been considered one
of Romanias best destinations to
visit. It is no surprise therefore that
some of the biggest names in the
hotel business have opened up shop
there, as has In Your Pocket: we
now publish a quarterly Mini-Guide
to the city. You can pick up a copy
at all good Sibiu hotels, or at any of
the citys three Tourist Information
Offices.
enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery church

is particularly worth admiring, for its sumptuous icons featuring
scenes from the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by
Petre Alexandrescu.
Apostles Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6,

Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii. One of the oldest
churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th
century, when it served as the church of the Trnovului
Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable for its sublime
steeple, built in 1715, and restored in 1936. Inside the church
is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which
are well worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the
churchs founder, Voivod Matei.
Baratiei Church (Biserica Baratiei) C-6, Str. Baratiei
27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate. Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular Roman-Catholic church was built
in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late
1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the
church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name,
Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat.
Bucur Church (Biserica Sfintii Atanasie si Chiril
Bucur Ciobanu) C-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.

biserica-bucur.ro. First built as early as the 1300s, this could
well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody is
exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but we
do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite,
first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often
ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed
in by two blocks. The current church was built around 1720
(thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the
cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church is named
for Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
Colea Church (Biserica Colea) C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate. To the left (face on) of the

Colea Hospital, the church of the same name was built from
1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent
renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of
Contemporary Art Galleries

Galateca Gallery (NeoGalateca Gallery-Shop)
C-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376 20 31 77,

galerie@galateca.ro, www.galateca.ro. A gallery of
applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features local and international
contemporary artists, while the NeoGalateca shop sells
fashion, accessories and designer objects from names
including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti and ToyWatch, as
well as local designers Andreea Badala (Murmur), Carla
Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Maracuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and Ciprian
Vrabie. Q Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
Zorzini Gallery C-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel.

(+4) 0727 89 07 20, contact@zorzinigallery.com,
www.zorzinigallery.com. Fine contemporary art gallery
working with both established and emerging Romanian
artists that correspond to the gallerys aesthetic agenda,
which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed
media. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
68
What to see
National History Museum
National History Museum (Muzeul National

de Istorie) C-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.mnir.ro. The beautiful,

monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building
that houses Romanias National History Museum was
constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local
architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as the
headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian postal
service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the
History Museum moved in. The museums exhibitions
are spread over 60 display rooms, although many are
currently closed for renovation. The museums two most
important collections, however, are very much open: the
Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium
includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis
close to present day Cernavoda and what is probably the
museums finest exhibit, a full-scale replica of Trajans Column. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the
time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian
Crown Jewels, including the kings crown and an amazing
selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre
statue on the museums steps - which appeared during
May 2012 - allegedly represents the emperor Trajan
holding a wolf. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject
of much ridicule, and is a popular object for both locals
and visitors to ironically have their photo taken with. Q
Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei,
pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.
the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe

Tattarescu. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the
vaguely Italian baroque portal. (The church - like the hospital
which surrounds it - was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino).
Creulescu Church (Biserica Creulescu) C-5, Calea

Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the most celebrated
historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creulescu was raised
from 1720-2 by Iordache Creulescu and his wife Safta, a
daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brncoveanu.
The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the
work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added
in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during
the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been
restored to its full glory, and is a must.
Doamnei Church (Biserica Maicii Domnului) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 28, MUniversitate. One of Bucharests many

hidden churches: find it in the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut on
the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta. The
church dates from 1683, and was built on the orders of Princess
Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was the first
in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative
floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column.
They also decorate the door.
What to see
Domnia Balaa Church (Biserica Domnia Balaa)
B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii. To say this church

has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in
1885, the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus sixth
daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744, but which
burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that
was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building
work almost immediately started on a third church, but that too
proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the
current, orange-coloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious
cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were
repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive
earthquake of 1977.
Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4, Str. Icoanei 12.

The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon
of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site as early 1681-82,
the first brick church being erected in 1745-50, only for it to
collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Rebuilt the
same year, the high altar was added in 1850. Note the grave
of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church,
adorned with a helmet.
Italian Church (Chiesa Italiana/Biserica Italian)
C-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 28, MUniversitate. Juxtaposed by

1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city, the red brick Italian
church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting. Look at it from
the other side of the road however, and its glorious Neo-Gothic
exterior, complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. The
church is owned by the Italian government.
Mihai Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Mihai Vod) B-6,
Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor. One of the churches that was moved

to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built
in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough
rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved
285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location
behind the apartment blocks.
New St. Georges Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe

Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. The largest
of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin
Brncoveanu, New St. Georges Church was consecrated on June
29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been designed
by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian
maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate
and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church
was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse.
New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp.
Brncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under the church, in an
unmarked grave.
New St. Johns Church (Biserica Sfantul Ioan Nou)
C-6, Piata Unirii, MPiata Unirii. Entirely hidden by blocks, few

visitors to - or even residents of - Bucharest are even aware of
this churchs existence. It is in fact right in the centre of the city,
opposite Unirea Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank
on the corner of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu.
Founded in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior frescoes
as well as a richly ornamental interior, complete with golden altar.
One of the churchs wooden icons dates from 1711 and was
formerly housed in the Sarindar Monastery (situated where the
Cercul Militar is today).
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str. Dealul

Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii. Known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian
Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design
based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a
number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority

of the cathedrals structure is the original, built between 1654
and 1658. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built
in 1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and closed to
the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of the Patriarch of
the Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708.
Radu Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Radu Vod)
C-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii. The church of the
former Radu Vod Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of
the Dmbovia, though the construction of the Civic Centre
hid it from the river and from general view. There was originally
a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea
the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and
was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church - which
resembles the Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from
1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century,
when the frescoes (all the work of Gheorghe Tattarescu) were
added. The painted interior of the bell tower is amazing.
Schitul Darvari (Darvari Hermitage) C-5, Str. Schitul

Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. The walled Schitul Darvari,
with its lovely grounds - is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in
busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his
wife Elena - who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei
- it was originally a private church for the Darvari family and their
close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894 and again
from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here continuously

from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to move to Cernica
Monastery by Romanias communist authorities. The church is
richly decorated both inside and out.
Museums
Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de
Art) B-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96

41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Firstly, a few words about the
building. The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a
private residence, before being bought by the state in 1883
to serve as the countrys supreme court. After the communist
takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for the
collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain their
art by the regime. There are some fantastic works on show,
including paintings by all of Romanias greatest artists, from
Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic
importance the collections here are second only to those at
the National Museum of Art. Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica,
tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first king,
Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former
Bucharests Other Parks

Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertii) C-7,
Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei. So close to the
city centre yet strangely forgotten by many, this large park
was created for the Romania in the World exhibition which
was held here in 1906. (The Technical Museum, to the
left of the main entrance, is housed in one of the original
exhibition pavilions). Designed by the French landscape
artist Eduard Redont, the park is today dominated by the
massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for
Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built
in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza
(it is today empty). The park offers some pleasant walks
along tree-lined paths, playgrounds and terraces, and a
good view of central Bucharest from the monument. The
open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next
to the observatory of Bucharest Universitys Astronomy
Department is a popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church,
built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On
the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the
medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from
1906), once a water tower but now used as offices by the
Romanian Armys veterans association.
Cismigiu Gardens (Grdina Cismigiu) B-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str.
Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate. A little shabbier and generally less well-kept than
Bucharests other parks, Cismigiu is nevertheless the
most central of the citys public gardens and worth a stroll.
Highlights include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style
of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most
famous writers, the lake, which can be explored by rowing
boat in summer, and Ion Jaleas French Memorial in Carrara
marble, which commemorates those French troops killed
on Romanian territory during World War I. Cismigiu has a
couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and terraces, as well
as some good, large childrens playgrounds.
Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor, Parcul Vacaresti) B-dul Tineretului, MTineretului. A large, mostly
lovely park featuring some of the best playgrounds in the

city. Divided into two parts, the main section (closest to
Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids, trampolines
and dodgems, as well as playgrounds and plenty of treelined avenues great for strolling. There is free bike hire (bring
ID) in the summer too. In the middle of the park is the Sala
Polivalenta a popular venue for concerts, exhibitions and
big indoor sporting events - set above a large artificial lake on
the shore of which is a great terrace, Cafeneaua Actorilor
de Vara, which serves some of the best mici in the city. Up
by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul
Copiilor, a childrens funfair, complete with big wheel and
other rides. It was recently renovated and is a good choice
for families with kids. The best part of Tineretului however
is probably the southern side, known as Parcul Vacaresti
or Parcul Copiilor, on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and
Calea Vacaresti. Here you will find the best and biggest
childrens playgrounds in the city here. There is also an old
steam engine for kids to clamber on, a go-kart track, tennis
courts, football pitches, volleyball and basketball courts.
There are even barbeque spots where you can bring your
steaks, sausages and mici and get your grill on.
Titan/Alexandru Ion Cuza Park Str. Liviu Rebreanu,
MTitan/Nicolae Grigorescu. The twin Titan and Alexandru

Ioan Cuza parks have been given much love of late and are
showing the benefit of millions of euros of investment. Whole
terraces have been landscaped, lawns laid, playgrounds built
and sports pitches placed at every turn. Look out too for the
replica Maramures wooden church on the southern side
of the park, on Str. Liviu Rebreanu. It was built in 1996 and
has become one of the most popular churches in the city: on
major religious holidays it is difficult to get close to the place.
There are plenty of kiosks serving refreshments, as well as ice
cream stands. On summer weekend evenings there is usually
something going at the main bandstand: either a band or
childrens entertainers.
69
70
What to see
Sightseeing Tours
Cultural Travel & Tours Tel./fax (+4) 021 336
31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, www.cttours.ro.
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours
of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a
variety of languages are available on request.
Mr. Tripp C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 3, Et.1, Ap. 3, tel.
(+4) 0745 75 27 53, www.traveltobucharest.com.
Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of
which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia
and Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes
(Dracula): notoriously difficult to get to independently. There
is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (79),
and they will even pick you up from, and drop you off back
at, your hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included.
TransVision Tel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, www.transvision.ro. TransVision runs a number of tours around
Romania, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles
Castle, Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in
Transylvania. The price is 59/person. Another option
is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also including Sibiu,
Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is 159/person and
includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast. All
tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest
hotel, as well as the services of a professional Englishspeaking guide (other languages are availble on request).
For both tours, if you book online and you can get a ten
per cent discount.
TravelMaker Str. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel.
(+4) 021 232 03 31, (+4) 0735 52 57 10, www.
bucharestcitytour.com. TravelMaker operates escorted
group tours from and around Bucharest, an airport shuttle
service and private transfers. Their half-day tour of the
city (29) is an excellent introduction to Bucharest. They
also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania, city
break packages and short trips. The agency offers the only
daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle
and Bran (Draculas) Castle for 69 per person. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and
form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed
by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau.
Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited
on a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of which
were decorated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carols
heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand. You will also be able
to view her astonishing art collection. During the construction
of the new wing in the 1980s, ruins of the original monastery
church were discovered, including part of the original interior
frescoes. The church can be visited without joining the full palace
tour. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00 lei,
students and children 21.00 lei. Admission includes entrance
and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian,
French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Bucharests

Geology Museum is one of the citys best. First off, there is
the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the
orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the

Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid
example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more
impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum.
The museums permanent collections are impressive in size
and - being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number
of English captions. The museum is also one of the most active
in the city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating temporary exhibitions.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00 lei. There is an
extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian
20 lei, English and French 30 lei.
National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC;

Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului),

MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Parliament
Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Romanias finest
contemporary artists. There are also works on display by
international artists, and regular topical exhibitions. We think
its one of the highlights of the citys cultural scene and a
visit here has the added bonus of getting you into the Casa
Poporului without taking the guided tour. The museum even
has a great cafe, and if the weather is good enough its terrace offers fantastic views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10 lei. Free entrance for children.
National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if

amusingly so) museum of technology, it should be remembered
that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display
here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day
and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first
appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back
to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in
something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pavilion
(of many) built to host the 1906 Romania Fair, a showcase of
everything great in and about Romania at the time. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00 lei, students,
children 2.00 lei.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik) D-5, Str.
Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Theodor Pallady

(1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in Dresden
and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment
of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain
Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis
de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears his
name has only six of his paintings. The museums saving grace
is the house in which it is hosted. Originally called the Casa
Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork
Nazaretoglu.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
Zambaccian Museum (Muzeul Zambaccian) B-3,
Str. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A, tel. (+4) 021 230 19 20,

www.mnar.arts.ro. A chance to see the impressive collection
of the long deceased Armenian businessman Krikor Zambaccian
(1889-1962; youll see the requisite portraits) that includes the
best of Romanian painters Nicolae Grigorescu, tefan Luchian,
Gheorghe Petracu, Nicolae Tonitza, Nicolae Drscu, Theodor
Pallady, Horia Damian and a smaller yet notable group of sculptures by Dimitrie Paciurea, Ion Jalea and Constantin Brncui.
It really is a thorough look at modern Romanian art. There are
also 19 paintings by French artists, including the only Cezanne in
Romania (Portrait of a Little Girl). Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 7 lei, children, students 3.50 lei.
72
OLD TOWN
old town
total area of the city flattened to make way for Bulevardul
Unirii and Casa Poporului. That anything survives at all
is little short of a miracle. While we at Bucharest In Your
Pocket tend to call the area Old Town, many will know it
better as Lipscani, with most locals calling it the Centru
Vechi (Old Centre).
The area is historic in the main because this is where
Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur
the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built
a church somewhere on the western bank of the Dmbovia
river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if
it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign
of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the
Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town,
and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle
of the 17th century the area was Bucharests merchant district,
which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of
World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses
and businesses which lined the areas streets were arrested by
the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and
left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois
for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with
many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years
(legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies
remain today, and add real character and colour to the area.
Old Towns Sights

While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition
over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent
transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which over the past
four years or so has turned what was very much a no-go
area with almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capitals
liveliest entertainment district. The area is still something of a
work in progress, but its a rewarding place to explore, one of
the few areas of the capital that is. You will certainly not want
for things to do, to see, or for places to eat, drink and dance.
Old Town: A Brief History
Old Town refers to the area of Bucharest described by the

Dambovita river to the south, Calea Victoriei to the west,
Bulevardul Brtianu to the east and Bulevardul Regina
Elisabeta to the north. It is more or less all thats left of preWorld War II Bucharest. What the war didnt destroy (and it
destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing was fierce during the early
part of 1944) communism did, most notably in the form of the
grandiose Civic Centre project that saw almost a fifth of the
The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at

Universitate (C-5), at the twin semi-circular buildings
originally built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of
Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are
four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first
Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a
founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod
Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Romanian
provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician,
astronomer and politician who as education minister in the
1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern
Romanian education system). Opposite is the university
building itself, constructed over a twelve year period
from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza,
at the time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three
faculties (Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses
just the Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the
universitys administrative departments. The central corp
of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it
was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though
rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures
and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable
and lost forever.
From this rather drab square its rather a delight to head

into Old Town proper, especially given that the first sight which
will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss) is
the beautiful, colourful St. Nicholas (Students) Church. It
is known colloquially as the Russian Church.
Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from
Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven typically
Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The
wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm) is allegedly a
copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin.
On your right as you exit the church - at the end of
the street - is the Neo-Gothic uu Palace, home of the
Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie
al Municipiului Bucureti; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 6.00 lei, students and children 3.00 lei).
The palace was built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant
Costache uu. Old postcards and costumes depict life in the
Romanian capital in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will
come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a lively
hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings and
exhibitions. Carry on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you
will see in front of you the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior
of the National Bank of Romania (BNR). It stands on the
site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul
Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of
various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land
was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed
to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert
Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian
columns, and an enormous central banking hall. The passing
of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it
remains a classic worthy of admiration. On the banks far side
(on Str. Lipscani) look out for the remains of another 17th century
inn: visible below street level through hardened glass.
Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading
posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial
street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole
area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str.
Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have
some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It
also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little
Old Town Shops

Souvenir Shop C-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84,

www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Everything you would want
from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and
Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides.
We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen
so far here, complete with the slogan: Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00.
Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021 310 43

89, www.thomas-antiques.ro. By common consent
the best antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from
furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with
new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can
even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit
and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself
doing the same at home. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
73
74
old town
alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes
and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St.
Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a
private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that the
king and queen still have special seats on the left and right
of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should they
ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have
magical healing powers. Back on Str. Lipscani, the listed,
historical monument Hanul cu Tei is a wonderful courtyard
(once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries,
antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift and souvenir
shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively and
bar/restaurant and beerhall.
Head next for Str. Stavropoleos, named for the
eponymous church found along its length (Biserica
Stavropoleos; Open 08:30 - 18:00. Services (in Romanian)
on Sunday at 09:30, 10:30).
The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a
Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by
its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest
are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on
a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones
dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled
craftsmen working on restoring them.
For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping
experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere,
a beer hall and restaurant dating from 1875. The facade of the
building is currently being renovated. Church fans might also
want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few steps to the
right is the Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari) built in the 19th
century on the site of an earlier church and featuring interior
frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. They were painted from
Strada Smardan in the 1920s, complete with trams

(which ran in both directions: hard to imagine today)
old town
1853-6. The ornate building on the other side of the road is

the headquarters of CEC, the national savings bank, while the
Neo-Classical giant facing it is the National History Museum,
now of course boasting a bizarre statue of Emperor Traian on
its steps. On the far side of the museum is Str. Franceza,
another Old Town street now blessed with more restaurants,
cafes, bars and such like than you could wish for. About half
way along look out for the Sf. Dumitru Church: Sf. Dumitru
is the patron saint of Bucharest. On the other side of the
church (which is currently being renovated) is Bucharests
comedy theatre.
The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan,
home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants.
History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No.
42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected
Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their prince. As Moldavian deputies had
already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place
here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravus
short-lived reign of 1600. At the bottom of Str. Smardan turn
left in order reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court
Palace and Church (Palatul i Biserica Curtea Veche; Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon).
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the
15th century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during
the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later,
this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added
a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons.
The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in
the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much
of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins
were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the
original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal
palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the
site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court
Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was
enlarged in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and
the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca
and Miu Papa, were added in 1847. The churchs exterior
was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever.
Opposite is the Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808 by an
Armenian merchant, it was bought and sold many times
throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries before being
nationalised in 1949. It remained state property until 2006,
when Constantin erban Cantacuzino the heir of its last
private owner won an epic legal battle (which had lasted the
best part of ten years) to recover ownership. Closed a year
later ahead of renovation, part of the inn (the restaurant/bar,
courtyard and some function rooms) was finally reopened in
2011. The inns hotel (the Dacia) remains closed but is poised
to reopen soon.
Old Town Restaurants: Fine Dining

Mulanruj Dining Theatre & Club C-6, Str. Selari
9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, rezervari@
bordellos.ro, www.bordellos.ro. Upstairs at Bordellos is
the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and events venue
where there is regular cabaret, stand-up comedy, live music
and theme parties and such like. There is a wide range of
dining options, and the food - as you would expect from the
people who run Bordellos - is very good. Details about coming events from Bordellos or the venues Facebook page.
QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. . PEW
The Artist Restaurant C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13,

MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, reservations@
theartist.ro, www.theartist.ro. Food as art: a first for
Bucharest and a first for Romania. The work of a young Dutch
chef, this amazing restaurant is set to be a massive hit with
the citys foodies, longing for something a bit different. The
menu changes with the seasons, and the grilled scallops
with roasted cauliflower is probably our pick of the current
menu, alongside the Norwegian cod fillet with chorizo and
sweet peas. The restaurant offers a tasting menu for those
who want to try all the main courses currently being served.
In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary
and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without
ever going over the top. Prices reflect the amazing quality.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PW
Food & Drink

Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassyhanulcutei.ro. Making very good use of the courtyard of
Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani,
Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge which

serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd
than many other places we could mention in Old Town. Good
bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those
in the know, this is the sister establishment of the original
Embassy on Piata Lahovari. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Also
at (C-4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. . PSW
French
Bon
C-6, Str. Smardan 33, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021

367 21 98, www.bonrestaurant.ro. Fabulous food in a
wonderful setting, created using antique doors and window
frames, the work of the designer du jour in this part of the
world, who also came up with the concept for Energiea,
Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and La Bonne Bouche (to which it
bears a passing resemblance). The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is amazing, the New
Zealand lamb chops tender, and the mussels fresh. Prices
are reasonable given the quality. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00, Mon
18:30 - 24:00. . PSW
Chocolat C-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 0728 03 41 75, www.chocolat.com.ro. Hard to pin
this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate
shop serving a little coffee? In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant
restaurant serving delicious, well priced light meals (soups,
pasta, salad) of a French and Italian bent. There is chocolate
of course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of gourmet
bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu
Bere. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller
13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83, Afi Palace Cotroceni, tel. (+4)
0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shoping City, tel. (+4) 0730 60
88 88 . PSW
75
76
old town
old town
and cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best lamb
weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too.
The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily specials,
so ask your waiter whats cooking. The house red is a drinkable
bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. . PSW
Romanian Food
Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German influences, is rather good. An example of top Romanian fare is
the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of bor (a sour, honeycoloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour), the tradition
of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was perfected in
Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory anything can go into
a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume
(made with vegetables), ciorba de vacuta (made with beef),
ciorba de burta (made with tripe), ciorba de perioare
(made with pork meatballs), or bor de miel (made with
lamb, and popular at Easter). While you will often see ciorba
de pui (ciorba made with chicken), chicken is more popular
in clear soups, served with dumplings (galute), carrots
and parsnips.
At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers
known as gustare reci will usually be served before the
ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami,
tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a
platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnai
de plecoi (mutton sausages), ficaei de pui (chicken livers), ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici. These
are spicy little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton,
beef and pork. They are delicious.
While main courses can often be a disappointment,
there are always some superb options in good restaurants,
such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves
stuffed with mince and rice), or tocania (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat on a menu, it is worth
trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. Romanian
pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version
of polenta made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long
been compared to the Romanian temperament.
Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline
along the Black Sea, the standard of its fish and seafood specialist restaurants excepted - can sometimes be poor.
Often only carp (called crap in Romanian) and trout (pstrav;
almost always served grilled) are available on restaurant
menus. There is an increasingly large number of seafood
restaurants in Bucharest, however, although much of the fish
they serve will be imported, and priced accordingly. Look out
too for good fresh mussels (midii) and hamsii: tasty, deep
fried anchovies.
Romanians also have a wonderful tradition of producing
and eating fish roe, known as icre, usually mixed with garlic,
onion and mayonnaise and served as a delicious salad.
Romania also produces decent caviar, although there is
currently a moratorium in place on farming sturgeon.
Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes
(clatite) served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar
are a popular dessert, as are papanai: deep fried doughnuts filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Local ice
cream (ngheata) is good and ubiquitous. Look out too for
Romanian cakes (prjituri), usually made with lashings of
fresh cream.
As a final word on Romanian food, a note about some
strange culinary habits which you may come across in
the countrys restaurants. For some unexplained reason
Romanians usually serve their fries covered with grated
cheese. When ordering you can avoid this by stating fara
branza pe cartofi prajii, v rog. There is also a local habit
of throwing sour cream (smntana) on everything, especially
in ciorbe and soups. Again, a simple fara smntana, v
rog will suffice. Most bizarre of all however is the Romanian
tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.
Hungarian
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata

Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro.
Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than
anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves
liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie.
Look for the chefs specials too. An open kitchen is always a
good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the
toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Note that they accept
Amex cards: not everywhere does in Bucharest. QOpen
09:00 - 23:30, Mon 18:00 - 23:30. . PESW
Negresco C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 3, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0720 66 77 66, www.negresco.ro. This place
is classically French, serving a terrific onion soup, two fabulous duck dishes (the duck breast with fennel and coriander
is amazing), fresh pate, snails and a super apple tart with
vanilla sauce to finish. There is a wide range of wines (many
available by the glass) and it is all served in a well-restored,
classy Bucharest house dating from the 1890s. Downstairs
is a bar perfect for private parties or retiring to after eating.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
German
St. George C-6, Str. Francez 44, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 317 10 87, www.stgeorge.ro. This has long been one
of our favourite restaurants, a place that had the vision to open
up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable.
The food is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a
wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and
a wine list that offers the very best Hungarys vineyards have to
offer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu is the perfect way
to end an evening here. Live music is provided by a happy, table
wandering troupe every night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. . PESW
International
Himera Cafe Lounge & More C-6, Str. Selari 26,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 78 18 55. Stay early, leave
late. Very late, as in the next morning. Thats the kind of
place this Old Town locale is: all things to all people. You can
eat very good food here: there is a wide range of terrifically
well presented food, from simple steaks to fancier creations,
as well as great coffee, cocktails and as the night wears on,
music. To be honest, you could very easily live here. Well worth
a look. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. . PSW
Italian
Bellini C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0721 76 55 55, www.restaurant-bellini.ro. Packed out

with the pre-cinema crowd heading over to Cinema Pro for
the latest premiere, Bellini has a great location and - according to just about anybody you ask - makes the best pizza
in Bucharest. The non-pizza menu is merely good. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Brauhaus 41 C-6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0725 52 30 81. If you like a tasty bit of German

sausage (and lets face it, who doesnt?) then this is the
place to head for if you are in Old Town. There is much else
besides sausage on the menu, however, and if you add in
tremendous beer and good prices you have another reason
to hail Strada Smardan as the citys top entertainment street.
Worth checking out. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. . PBSW
Coco Bongo C-6, Str. Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)

0754 02 04 34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Love the name, love
the attitude. Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact
it is both pub and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat
very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the
sauce. The food is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of
the dishes, anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though,
and the service good, quick and friendly. Worth a look. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. . PESW
Greek
Food & Travel Concept Store C-6, Str. Smardan 7,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0720 80 02 40, www.foodtravel.ro. You can now taste Greece while booking a holiday
to... Greece. This bright eatery complete with blue and white
chequered tablecloths opposite the National Bank in the Old
Town serves a good range of Greek dishes (including decentsized salads made with real Greek cheese and superb fresh
grilled sardines) for more than reasonable prices. Plenty of
meze options, so we recommend just ordering a load of those
and tucking in. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. . PVESW
Meze Taverna C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro. Another
excellent Greek restaurant. It even looks the part - we love the
lampshades made from empty olive oil cans - while the food
itself is seriously, seriously good. There is tons of seafood on
the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes
Bel Mondo C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)

0725 96 66 36, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro. A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the Old Town, which
offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato soup
with mozarella - at prices that are more than reasonable.
The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is
big, open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings.
Easily the best occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself. Big terrace too as long as the
weather is good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
Il Peccato C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)

021 310 90 13, www.ilpeccato.ro. It shouldnt take too
long to find this place: it is the restaurant with a motorbike
in a glass display box parked outside. Really. Inside it is a
well-decorated and comfortable venue, worthy of your time,
serving standard Italian food of the pizza, pasta variety, Has
an excellent selection of Italian wines and is a great place to
sit and enjoy a decent bottle or two. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
. PVSW
Maccheroni C-6, Str. Franceza 15, tel. (+4) 0722 25
The elegant Pasajul Villacrosse, which links Calea
Victoriei to the Old Town
93 60/(+4) 021 318 03 80, www.maccheroni.ro. Roman

cuisine served in superb surroundings in the Old Town. The
menu is big on seafood and fish, alongside a decent selection
77
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old town
old town
of grilled meat and vegetables. Theres superb antipasti everything is made with original produce shipped in from
Rome - and the pasta is freshly made here. Good wine list
too and prices are OK. QOpen 12:00 - 2:00. . PSW
from all over the world, from the US to New Zealand, and there is
more than just classic steaks (like the Rib-Eye): there are great
baby back ribs too, a magnificent burger, and the desserts - if
you still have room after a big meaty feast - are well worth trying,
not least the lemon merengue pie. And they have a childrens
menu. Admirable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVESW
Malagamba C-6, Str. Mandinesti (Sf. Dumitru) 2, MU-
niversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 33 89, www.malagamba.

ro. What a name, what a place. An Italian (with a twist) restaurant of the old school (in that the food is what counts first
and foremost), this Irish-owned eatery next to the Comedy
Theatre is terrific. Wanting to stand out from the crowd the
team behind it have gone to great lengths to do so, coming
up with all sorts of treats, such the as lime and basil sorbet:
already a legend amongst Bucharest foodies. Regular kids
events at the weekend. Sergiu Malagamba by the way was a
Romanian musician, composer and director who frequented
these parts in the 1930s and 40s. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
. PTBSW
Swiss
Mica Elvetie St. Moritz Str. Franceza 60, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 17, www.micaelvetie.ro.

In a superb new setting in a lovingly renovated building on
the edge of Old Town the Bucharest cooking legend Jakob
Hausmann is still delivering the goods more than a decade
after opening his first restaurant. The menu changes regularly, with a wide variety of daily specials, all based around
the seasons freshly available ingredients. If you are a foodie
who cares about subtle, simple flavours you are going to love
this place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . PBW
Trattoria Buongiorno C-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.

ro. We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have
quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old
Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection
of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and one of
the biggest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time
of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go by
type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city is
going by). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at
(B-2) Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa
Shopping Center, 1st floor. . PBSW
Vecchio 1812 C-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 031 430 95 77, www.vecchio.ro. We love it. Making
fantastic use of a gorgeous old building on Strada Covaci,
this Italian restaurant looks and feels like the kind of place
you want spend all evening in. The food is superior Italian,
as you would expect from one of the citys best chefs, and
while prices are not cheap they certainly reflect quality. The
jacket potatoes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most
original) starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:30. . PBSW
Lebanese
Manuc Levantin C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Good

Lebanese food, upstairs at Hanul lui Manuc, the citys last
surviving caravanserai. There is a huge range of dishes to
choose from, and its difficult to go wrong: we ordered a load
of food, and loved it all, being especially impressed by the
lahme bahjeen (minced beef and lamb in pitta bread), the
kafta kebab and the marinated lamb cutlets. Well priced too.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
Sindbad C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 317 77 88/(+4) 0735 22 28 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving
what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous
fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton
For even more

Bucharest restaurants
see pages 38-55
Turkish
Divan C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 30 34, info@thedivan.ro, www.thedivan.ro.

From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the
great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant.
The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle Eastern,
and its very good indeed. They will even cook you a whole
lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less
Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too.
After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe:
theres a huge range of flavours to choose from. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
Old Town Cafes

dishes as main courses. Theres both an exterior (at the right
time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely
Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy
chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PVSW
Mediterranean
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0737 50 38 90, www.charme.ro. Some of the finest food

in Old Town, served in one of the most elegant and classiest
locations around. Check out the nice little touches such as
high quality bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine.
Its a winner from start to finish. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
Mexican / Tex Mex

La Bonita C-6, Str. Selari 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0758 66 05 00, www.labonita.ro. Not the worlds greatest Tex-Mex food, but in a city which has very few Mexican
restaurants worth your time, this place should be on your list.
It is actually a five-level extravaganza of a venue, with food on
the ground and first floors, drinks on the second and a terrace
on the top. Down in the basement there is a club, complete
with karaoke. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. . PEBSW
Steak
Red Angus Steakhouse C-6, Str. Franceza 56, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0756 60 00 00, www.redangus.ro. Does
exactly what the name suggests: serves great steaks to customers who like their meat cooked to order. The steaks come
Cafe Manuc C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0769 07 58 44, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Magnificent. Hanul lui Manuc is one of the best places in the city
to sit and enjoy either coffee - and there is a huge range - or
cocktails (both with and without alcohol). They also serve
a fantastic jug of lemonade, loaded with honey. Sit outside
in the courtyard (when the weather allows) of this amazing
building - a 19th century inn which in many ways has remained
unchanged for over a century - and remember that this place
itself is a living piece of the citys history. Also serves very
good Romanian food (see the review for Manuc Bistro in the
Romanian restaurants section) as well as decent Lebanese
at Levantin. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PBSW
French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 316 10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. Bucharests smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious tarts and
cakes, great coffee and a super terrace in the right weather
outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about
the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time
of day. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. PBSW
Godot Cafe Teatru C-6, Str. Blanari 14, tel. (+4) 021 316
16 82, www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Cafe, bistro and theatre on
Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances every
day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays, from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Romanian productions,
and feature plenty of top local acting talent. Even actors used to
bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely
intimate auditorium. Theres some good simple food too, such
as pasta, salads, omelettes: that kind of thing. QOpen 12:00 05:00. Box office open daily 12:00-19:00. PW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Ideal

at every time of day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front
of one of the long windows, a business lunch at one of the
wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food
is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch
owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than
once. There is also a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting
and function rooms upstairs, and they now do a great brunch,
on Saturday and Sunday. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking
lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PSW
Klein Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Good cafe situated on the
mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking
cafe in the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental
breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants, muffins,
Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed
orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day fresh, warm
waffles are served with a choice of toppings. Good hot chocolate,
and a wide range of exotic teas. Nice. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGSW
Gio Cafe C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 313 97 40, www.giocafe.ro. Something of a

Bucharest legend now, this is a perennially popular cafe that
hosts business types in the mornings, who come here to talk
big numbers over coffee and pastries, giving way as the day
moves on to a stylish, hip clientele that comes for the good
light meals - pasta, soups and the like - and a cracking list of
cocktails. There is another big, vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba
Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at
(E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel. (+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PBSW
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old town
old town
Les Bourgeois C-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Beraria Kovaci C-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Valea Regilor B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Vil-
Bicicleta C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
(+4) 021 310 60 52, www.lesbourgeois.ro. A veritable

Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit
to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the
menu and making sure there is always good reason to come
and eat, drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees
here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in
fact that making individual recommendations is pointless.
Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too.
Get in. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW
lacrosse), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69,

www.valea-regilor.ro. Thick Turkish coffee served in one
of Calea Victorieis grand old passages. Alongside the coffee
and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can also get
your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes that offer
an allegedly much healthier way to smoke tobacco. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00. NBSW
Old Town Bars

Beraria Hanul Cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4)
0727 57 13 71, www.berariahanulcutei.ro. With its big
long bar, lively atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose, it would be easy to
nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Add in
a brilliant range of sausages (weisswurst, bratwurst, Polish
bangers and local mici) and it starts to get very difficult not to
call this the best pub in Old Town. And when we tell you there is
live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know
you need to go there immediately. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
(+4) 021 312 05 52, www.berariakovaci.ro. Beer (more

than 40 kinds), very good pizza and fair bit else besides in a
rather nice setting on Strada Covaci, which, with the recent
opening of a few other decent places is quickly becoming
the new Lipscani street-to-be. Beraria Kovaci is a sweet
little place, decked out with wood and boasting perhaps the
comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced
and service comes with a smile. An excellent place for a livener
or two. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PNW
0735 61 62 98. The name means Bicycle, and it will not take
you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished
and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor
of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty of
stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple
of leather sofas for those who want something a bit more
comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night is the order of
things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly
rocks. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
Corks Cozy Bar Str. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Nice little wine bar tucked

away on an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a
handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list
will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of
wines from across the world. Almost all of them are available
by the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine
bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about wine
- would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In
that regard, its a total success. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PSW
Entourage Centrul Vechi C-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72. You will like this

place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather
armchairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch
and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you
will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps
hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant
place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a
bonus these days. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PSW
Golf Planet
C-6, Str. Halelor 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 64

69/(+4) 0753 87 65 42, www.golfplanet.ro. Something
very different and original comes to Old Town. Its an 18hole crazy-golf course, with added cafe, cocktail bar and
comfy sofas. And it is all in the dark. Kind of: the lights are
all fluorescent and futuristic. Brilliant for families during the
day, at night grab a group of mates and get down here for a
game of golf and a few beers. (We should add that you are
under no compulsion to play golf: you are welcome to watch
everybody else try). It really is the definitive answer to the
perennial What shall we do tonight? question. Unique. Find
it under the Europa Royale Hotel. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PW
Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. A cosy little speakeasy

in a well-hidden location (find it in the alleyway which links
Str. Blanari to Str. Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct
all sorts of secret business, affairs and anything else that
springs to mind. Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced,
the staff are friendly and its worth checking out: if only to
show off to someone just how well you know Bucharest and
its backstreets. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00
- 05:00. PNW
Klein Bar & Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar

and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place
to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge
of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a
favourite for those looking for something just a little more
restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an ad
hoc Tourist Info Centre. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 23:00. PGW
Laboratorul de Cocktailuri C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. Our new favourite

Old Town location? Possibly. Its a cocktail bar (there is beer
too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where
everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The
name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins
or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask,
while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually,
they have even invested in decent bar stools. Trendy without
overdoing it. Commendable. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 06:00. PNW
Papiota
C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 367

27 77, www.papiota.ro. Papiota is one of our favourite
Bucharest bars. It is at first glance a lot like a certain other
bar we will not name (packed with odd chairs, tables and
industrial bits and bobs), but without the hipster attitude. Add
in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and
that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door
and you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the
drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the
music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it. QOpen
14:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW
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Romanian Restaurants in Old Town
Bucharests Curiosities
Caru cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversi-
Caruta cu Paiate C-5, In front of the National Theatre,
tate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60, www.carucubere.ro.

Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork
- make the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave
without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting
up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the
baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their
own rather good beer. The service is usually good (now: it
never used to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We should
also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable
folklore show which takes place most evenings.Q Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PESW
Revenge C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0722 33 12 26, www.revenge.ro. It is the music that we

like best about this pub and club in the heart of the Lipscani
area. A mix of everything from the sublime to the ridiculous,
it hardly matters that you might not like whats playing: you
will not have to wait long to hear an old favourite. Add in a
casually-dressed, non-fitze crowd and you have a winner.
QOpen 17:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 09:00. PNW
Shakespeare C-6, Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 311 19 92, www.shakespearebar.ro. A cracking

pub on Strada Blanari, right opposite the big church, where
from day one they appear to have got it right. A bit spacier
and a bit more comfortable than your average Lipscani venue,
expect to find comfy sofas in the windows, strange but rather
fetching art on the walls and decent staff who know how to
pull a decent beer. The crowd tends to be studenty during the
day, getting a bit smarter and sophisticated as the evening
wears on. We like it. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PW
Silk Sky Bar C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4 (Z Boutique Hotel),
Thomas Antiques Bar C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.

ro. Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe,
tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate
(or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the
goods youve been admiring. Theres nothing quite like taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home.
Regular events too, from string quartets to book launches
and the like. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. PW
Old Town Pubs

Arcade Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0727 25 70 22, www.arcadecafe.ro. One more

reason to hail Strada Smardan as the new Messiah of nightlife
destinations. This little place is a cool mix of cafe, DJ bar and
Late Night Food
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 55 55 05. One of Bucharests

genuine hidden gems. On the top floor of the itself rather discrete
Z Boutique Hotel you are unlikely to see this place in passing:
you need to know about it in advance. You can therefore really
impress people with your inside knowledge of Bucharest by
bringing them here. Expect drinks, good food, an in-the-know
crowd and fine views over Piata Universitatii. QOpen 10:00 - 2:00.
Bun de tot Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
The Bazaar C-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Club Tropicana.
Its not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest
bar, neither are there too many places in Old Town as big
as this: theres upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs),
downstairs, and on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to
the street outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets
this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music
is loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun
and sunshine. QOpen 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW
Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii.

KFC on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so
instead get yourself here for your late night/early morning
fried chicken fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00.
NEW
The Drunken Lords C-6, Intr. Selari 3-5, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro.

Its alright this place. We were not convinced on our first visit,
but given that it had just opened thats hardly a surprise. On
our second visit however we found a good, lively pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more upmarket
than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in
and around this little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and
regular cultural events. Not easy to find, its worth seeking
out. QOpen 10:00 - 5:00. PESW
0733 11 04 64, www.citygrill.ro. The name means

good for everything and everything is what they have here,
from kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs, burgers and the
like. Find it on the corner of Selari and the river at the
bottom of Old Town: its open 24 hours. Q Open 24 hrs.
Dristor Kebap C-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata Unirii,

tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, lipscani@dristorkebap.com,
www.dristorkebap.ro. Legendary chain of kebab shops,
which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide,
even in to Old Town. Q Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul
Marasesti 42, Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1
and B-dul Timisoara 26.
Gyros Thessaloniki Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata

Unirii. In our opinion, this place serves the best chicken
kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours
and the queues speak for themselves. Alongside the
kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets.
Cheap too: its a winner. Q Open 24hrs.
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0729 62 62 62, www.citygrill.ro. They call these places

your dining room in the city, and given the homely food and
cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable)
they might just be right. Dont expect haute cuisine, but do
expect big portions of simple Romanian food. We like the
carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with
mutton and pork. Theres a good selection of local beers
to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself
looks better than ever too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021
233 98 18 and many other locations. . PVEBSW
Crama Domneasca C-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 15 98 46, www.cramadomneasca.com. Right in the heart of Bucharests historic centre,
this is Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You
can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks.
The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not,
send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get
longer and longer. Its the kind of place where you will be
discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the
night is done. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVESW
Lacrimi si Sfinti C-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99, www.lacrimisisfinti.

com. Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea
Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy place
in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good)
wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything
else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian
dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent
enough and though a little spartanly furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way after
you have finished your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 02:00, Mon
18:00 - 02:00. . PESW
Manuc Bistro C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii,

tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11/(+4) 0769 07 58 44, www.
hanulluimanuc.ro. Bucharests oldest inn (and one of only
two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe - the
other is in Albania). Nowhere else in the city can rival the
setting, and fortunately the food is more than a match
for the surroundings. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when
the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or good
Romanian food: dont miss the mici, the local speciality,
but there is much more besides. We rather liked the baked
duck served with stewed cabbage, and the mixed grill for
two people is good value. The orange and chocolate cake
is the pick of the desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. .
PEBSW
MUniversitate. Chances are youve seen this statue,

admired it, but then walked on having failed to grasp what
it actually is, or what it signifies. Centrally located in front
of Romanias National Theatre (which is currently being
rebuilt), not 20 yards from the Bucharest InterContinental
Hotel, the bronze Caruta cu paiate was created by sculptor
Ioan Bolborea in honour of Romanias favourite playwright,
Ion Luca Caragiale. It was unveiled in December 2010. The
statue features characters from Caragiales plays (Domnul
Goe, Nae Catavencu, Tache Farfuridi, and so on) and was
unveiled in December 2010. Next to the Caruta cu paiate
is a seated bronze of Nenea Iancu - Caragiale himself.
C. A. Rosetti 8 (Theodor Aman Museum) C-5,

Str. C. A. Rosetti 8, www.museum.ici.ro/mbucur/
romanian/theodoraman.htm. One of the most remarkable
houses in Bucharest is the little place at Strada C.A. Rosetti
8 (C. A. Rosetti is the street which links Piata Revolutiei with
Bulevardul Magheru). Built in 1869 by the painter Theodor
Aman as a home with studio, the house became a museum
dedicated to Aman in 1908, remaining open until 2010, when
it was closed for renovation. It remains, alas, closed. That
should not stop you from admiring the exterior, however,
which is stunning. Designed by Aman himself (he also did the
frescoes on the ceilings inside) it incorporates bas-reliefs and
statues, arches and porticos in a linear yet never rudimentary
fashion. That it has been closed for so long is real shame.
Foisorul de Foc D-5, P-ta Foisorul de Foc/B-dul
Ferdinand 33, tel. (+4) 021 252 28 84. The Foisorul de
Foc (Firewatch Tower) was constructed in 1893 and was at
the time the tallest building in the city. It is 50 meters high.
Contrary to the popular belief its purpose was simply to be
a place from where the citys authorities could watch for
fires. It at no stage stored water. The tower today hosts a
less than gripping and mono-lingual Museum of Firefighting
and Policing, the best bit of which is the view from the old
observation deck, closed for decades but now thankfully
reopened. Note that it is usually packed with kindergarten
and school groups. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission 3.00 lei adults, 1.50 leu children.
Kilometre 0 & Cristian Paturca C-6, P-ta 21 Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. The statue marks Romanias
Greenwich - the spot from where all the distances to other
Romanian cities are measured. Next to it is a memorial to
Cristian Paturca, best known as the man who wrote Imnul
Golanilor, the song of Romanias student revolutionaries of
April, May and June 1990 who tried and failed to bring down
the Ion Iliescu regime.
Romulus & Remus C-6, Piata Roma. In Piata Roma, at
the entrance to Strada Lipscani, is this statue of the Roman

wolf nurturing Romulus and Remus. A replica of a similar
monument in Rome, it was a presented to the city by the
Italian state in 1906, to signify Romanias Latin origins. Officially called the Lupa Capitolina, it has led a nomadic
existence, and was most recently kept in Piata Romana. It
moved back here to its original location in 2010. There are
three other identical statues around Romania, in Cluj, Targu
Mures and Timisoara.
83
84
old town
old town
central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent
- salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish
sandwich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasnt bad
either. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both.
Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after
that its first come first served. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon
17:00 - 01:00. PSW
Bordellos C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. There is always
something going on here, every night of the week. From quiz
nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this
is a one-stop shop for great nights out. Theres Heineken,
Murphys and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four
screens. The food is great, with some rather special tapas,
including the ribs which are just about the best weve ever
had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the
Boudoir, and note that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining
Theatre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights. You cant miss this place by the way: just look for the
tarts in their underwear beckoning you in. QOpen 11:00
- 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 02:00. PEBSW
Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com. Once

upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over
to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name.
Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened
here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea
Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing done
on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which
the default option is Timisoreana. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00, Mon,
Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
deadly serious club, though the music is always at the right

volume and never stifles conversation. Basically there are
two parts to this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving hot milk:
our kids liked it!) and downstairs is the club. The cafe is open
from (around) 10am. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
Barbero C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0767 50 80 80. A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we

first walked in. The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the
style of an old barbers shop (as the name might suggest). We
love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar, designed
to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by
a DJ, and well priced drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PW
Beer OClock C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. This little

pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection
bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from
all over the world you could drink a different beer every night
for a month and not try the same one twice. Whats more,
besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass in
which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a
few places to sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure
of a seat. Note: there is now a much bigger Beer OClock on
Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny
original. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni
4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW
Biutiful C-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. When you walk in, you

will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an
enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour
(check out the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather
special atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary
Home Delivery
Fabio Pizza A-3, Str. Barbu Vladoianu 46, tel. (+4)
021 311 71 22/(+4) 021 322 07 22, www.fabiopizza.ro. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza
company. Great prices, cheerful delivery chaps and terrific
pizza (if you choose the thin and crispy base, baza subtire
in Romanian). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. VN
Jerrys D-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021
311 21 21, www.jerryspizza.ro. Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to Jerrys than pizza
these days. Hot chicken wings, subs and salads, for a
start. Friendly delivery boys in our experience: always
worth an extra mark. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Jerrys at Night Open 23:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00, tel. (+4) 0722 33 41 41. VS
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733

50 07 50/(+4) 0720 99 33 33, rezervari@orasulinterzis.ro, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Home delivery
arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. PSW
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
2-4, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4)

0726 10 34 07, comanda@lachinezesc.ro, www.
nanjing.ro. Yes! The Nan Jing now does home delivery.
Just head to their website for the full home delivery menu.
Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
La 100 de Beri
C-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60

46. The name (as you might have guessed) means 100
Beers, and thats exactly what they have here: beer, and lots
of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu they
have considerably more than 100 beers, and there is more
besides: shorts and cocktails for those who dont fancy a
beer. Nice long, English-style bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
Sappho Pub & Garden C-6, Str. Soarelui 3, MPiata

Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 25 33 83. Set around a sunken
courtyard just off Strada Covaci Sappho boasts a large
terrace (which is great in the right weather) and a genuinely
cavernous interior (which has loads of different rooms, all
done out in a unique theme, creating all sorts of cool vibes).
Hosts lots of live music and various party nights, and besides
the beer and cocktails there is food if youre hungry. QOpen
15:00 - 04:00. PEB
OHaras C-6, Str. Franceza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii, tel.
0724 23 95 77. One of the citys smaller, but better, Irish

pubs. Expect a decent pint of Guinness, live Irish music on
some evenings and a grand welcome from some fine staff:
all of which make this very much the thinking mans Irish
pub in Bucharest. The Lipscani venue (on one of the areas
pedestrian streets) is a bonus. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PENBSW
Oktoberfest
(+4) 021 313 03 36, www.stpatrick.ro. Big, well located

and quite frankly cracking Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for the many others in the area. Looking
every inch just like a proper Irish boozer, its a real pub all right
with decent pub grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and
more than efficient staff who ensure you do not have to wait
long for a drink. Look out too for the St. Patrick Party Room
on the other side of the street: a kind of mini-St. Patrick.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PBSW
C-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33

32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. What makes this place
so special is how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd
more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary
out for a drink and a good time locals at that, not the fitze
crowd. The owners try to make something happen every
night, whether its football on the television or impromptu
drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a
bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which
has a small terrace. The club Octopus is also inside (on the
ground floor). Q Open 24hrs. PNBW
Team Pub C-6, Str. Lipscani 36, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 0760 32 34 17/(+4) 0723 72 94 29, www.teampub.ro. Decent enough pub on the corner of Lipscani and
Selari, with good proper bar stools and a decent range of
beers. Efficient waitresses in red tops serve the customers
well. Its popular too: first time we came here (just after they
had opened) it was empty: now (especially on a Friday or
Saturday night) you can barely get through the door for revelers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
The Pub - Universitatii C-5, Regina Elisabeta 9, MUni-
0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Good pub on

Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back. Serves very
good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very
well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far
better than you would assume. The burger was great: try it
with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for something a
bit different. A big screen shows football and the like. QOpen
10:00 - 05:00. PBW
Sankt Petersburg Pub C-6, Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata

Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68/(+4) 0729 19 18 55,
www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. At the end of a well-marked
passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a bright,
colourful bar and club that puts on something different every
night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list there are
also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed placed - no
fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even serve caviar
pancakes. Definitely a first in Bucharest! QOpen 12:00 04:00. PESW
NEW
versitate, tel. (+4) 0728 84 37 82, www.thepubro.com/

club. Good food and drink in a big, lively pub right on Piata
Universitatii: very much Bucharests beating heart. The food in
fact is what perked our interest in the first place: we had heard
about the amazing burgers and just had to come and try them.
We can confirm that The Pub serves one of Bucharests best
burgers. There are wings, ribs and salads too, while on the beer
front there is Staropramen, Stella, Hoegaarden, Leffe and
Becks on tap. We also liked the fact that you can reserve the
exat table you want directly on the venues website. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00.
Trinity College C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0747 50 75 07, www.trinitycollegepub.ro. Upmarket

burgers, tapas and the like served in an all-American atmosphere to an (almost) all-Romanian crowd. Good ribs, good
pizza, good cocktails and Leffe on draught. Stays open late,
and at weekends often has DJs on duty to make sure the
music is good. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PBW
85
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old town
Vintage Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 43, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 0743 79 71 73, www.thevintagepub.ro. Another big
and bold Smardan drinking den. And its not bad at all. Staff
are incredibly hospitable, and the interior dcor is pub-ish
without overdoing it. The vintage aspect is provided by the
hanging of various antiques on the walls. Cheapish drinks,
salads, sandwiches and a big terrace (at the right time of
year, of course) attract a young crowd. Hosts loads of events.
Q Open 09:30 - 05:30. PEBSW
Old Town Clubs & Discos

Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Is that really

what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a
Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red
brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it
could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro
tunes. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
old town
Fire Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Smoky, mainly rock-playing
venue for disaffected youth types. Well, kind of. A makeover
last year has certainly made the place a bit brighter, though
it remains popular most of all among those who like loud
rock music, and who think that Club A around the corner
just isnt sweaty and crowded enough. Cheap drinks help
keep the crowd young and fitze free, and to be honest there
are worst places to go local. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 06:00. PBSW
Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0722 37 33 36, www.freddo.ro. The biggest, boldest place

on Strada Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we
were about to run for cover only for the roof to be extended,
keeping us all dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound
Bound Club & Bar C-6, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 76 27 56, www.bound.ro. An Old

Town club has to be a bit special these days to grab our attention: Bound is certainly that. We like the grown up vibe it
gives off, the smooth sounds and the nice long bar that the
staff actually let you sit at. Drinks are a decent price and as
an alternative to the rowdier places in the area, its a winner.
You will see us there. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PEBW
Club A C-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Selling the cheapest beer
in the Old Town, this place is a legend. If you want a local,
unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down
to classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this is
the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every
night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as
well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights
to theatre. QOpen 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat
16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. PEBW
classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute

clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve
inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself. Q Open 22:00 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PNBW
La Muse C-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Last time
we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in
Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it
looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the
entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it)
but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit
older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks.
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
True Social Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner
Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)

0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0767 34 34 10, www.mojomusic.
ro. Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor
is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in
the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is
live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the
standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent
price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the
manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to
his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the
resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular
quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. Top notch.
QOpen 13:00 - 05:00. PEBW
Finnish Cocktail & Club C-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. A little more chic
and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish
is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary
Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house drink
is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than
you ever thought possible, but there is more to this place than
vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They even have
Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided by a DJ - is
as contemporary and as good as the design. QOpen 13:30 05:00. PBW
cocktails, pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy
it all at proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve
at the weekends: this place is damn popular. QOpen 12:00
- 05:00. PNBSW
The Vault C-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0723 19 99 77. Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes

and smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in
this place, not least because you never know what to expect
on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco
with Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87,

www.trueclub.ro. In that location once known as Temple
(on the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is
True Club, an exclusively live music venue well worthy of your
time (its owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest
nightlife scene. When the resident covers band or top local
act isnt performing you will find karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually means that there
is always something here for everyone. Drinks are a decent
price. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
Old Town Jazz

Big Mamou Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei 2B,
MPIata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 67 11 08/(+4) 0744

52 01 49, www.bigmamou.ro. In a city that is hardly
awash with live jazz clubs, this place is now something
of a legend. Though it looks less than inviting from outside, once through the door you are in a world of great
music and well-priced drinks. It is everything a good
jazz and blues club should be, complete with a smoky
atmosphere and a vast range of live acts who regularly
play here. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00,
Sun 19:00 - 24:00. N
87
88
Shopping
Shopping
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping
centres and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru
and - increasingly - Calea Victoriei. There are plenty of
places to buy souvenirs, and if that special someone is demanding you bring back something uniquely Romanian, we
suggest Romanian Monopoly, which features the streets
and districts of Bucharest (placing Primaverii in place of
Mayfair). It can be bought for around 120.00 lei in good
toy and book stores. See the feature on pages 24-25.
Bookshops
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38,
www.anthonyfrost.ro. Stocks a good range of fiction,
an exceptional range of non-fiction, plenty of childrens
books, and a decent selection of books about Romania
and Bucharest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Crturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel.
(+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous
bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of
English books. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35, kretzulescu@humanitas.ro, www.libhumanitas.ro. Large bookshop selling
a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Sala Dalles C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 52 60, www.carti-anticariat.ro.
A good bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that
often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a decent selection
of books in English. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Markets
Bucharest is home to a number of markets, most of which
stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but not
always) cheaper than the supermarkets. Also look out for
occasional arts, crafts, peasant and antiques markets
at the Peasant Museum: these are usually held once a
month.
Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharests biggest and perhaps most famous market. Colourful, huge, and
always lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could
buy almost anything here, it is now a strictly meat, dairy
produce, fruit and vegetable market. A good one though.
Watch your wallet. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00.
Specialist Wine Stores

BvS Wine Bar & Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel.
(+4) 021 31 00 580, www.berosandvanschaik.ro.

Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the
same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. Its a wine bar and
shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported
wines, tasting them all before you buy. You can also just
pop in for a glass or two. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 15:00 - 24:00.
Ethic Wine C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4)
0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Wonderful wine

shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both
of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova
in the Republic of Moldova. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Mon
15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul Unirii.

Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharests biggest
and busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More or less everything
you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable. Next
door is an enormous second-hand car market. Bus 123 from Piata
Unirii will get you here. Q Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Shopping centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.
aficotroceni.ro. One of Bucharests biggest malls, with the
added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink
(open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster. Q Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Baneasa Shopping City os. Bucureti-Ploieti 42D,
tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it
makes everywhere else look quite small. You can get here on
buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021
327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened
in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
NEW
Promenada Mall Calea Floreasca 246B, MAurel
Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 29 99, www.promenada.ro.

Due to open on October 17th, this place is set to become
Bucharests most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual mix
of stores, restaurants and cinemas, there is also a rooftop
recreation area which will - in winter - be home to an ice rink.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 303 02 08, www.unireashop.ro. What
was once Romanian socialisms showpiece department store.
There are fashion stores on the first and second floors while the
electronics and household appliance shops on floors three and
four are also worth a visit. An excellent Mega Image supermarket
can be found in the basement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Casa Frumoasa
A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: Tom Ford, Scabal, Brioni,
Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, Jacob Cohen etc.
Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand), tel.

(+4) 0731 03 65 63, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Casa Frumoasa Radisson B-4, Calea Victoriei
63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0723 33 17 31,
www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10.00 - 21.00, Sat
10.00 - 19.00, Sun 10.00 - 17.00.
Casa Frumoasa Store B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu
40, (+4) 0733 73 59 30, www.casafrumoasa.ro.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00
- 18:00.
Elegance Boutique B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0722 45 48 82, www.
elegance-paris.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
J. Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0724 35 30
06, j.k.bucharest@casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
89
90
directory
Cleaners
Dentists
Egnate B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion
15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, www.egnate.ro. Professional

cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will
even come and clear up after you have had the builders in, and
can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture.
Clinics & Hospitals

Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta
Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. Best state-run hospital in
Romania. Efficient, clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs.
Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4,
tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
In Your Pocket Mobile
4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.ro.

Probably the best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can
bring the kids too, as they now have special rooms equipped
just for them. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For
emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2)
Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
Dry Cleaners
5asec B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236
00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Best dry
cleaners in town.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13 and many other
locations around town.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201
56 12.
Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00.
Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300
36 55.
Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300

08 00.
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a city on a map, quickly showing which are the
closest to your current location. Smart filters can
be used to ensure that only those places which
matter to you are displayed. You can also leave
comments about venues, as well as rate them,
right in the mobile platform. You can even share
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Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
92
directory
directory
Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live in Bucharest, the good news
is that the city has some outstanding schools: both state
and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state schools in
Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which regularly
meet an outstanding academic level, even if their facilities
are somewhat lacking (few state schools have sports fields).
There are huge differences between state schools however,
and competition for places at the best is tough. There is also
of course the fact that unless your kids can speak Romanian,
the state system will be practically closed to them.
Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill
this breach, and there are now a number of excellent
private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of
education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats:
many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children
to these private schools). We provide a list of the best
private schools below. All boast outstanding academic
records and modern facilities, native English speaking
teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
International Schools
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
Swimming Pools
Crowne Plaza B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.

ro. Indoor pool in a leafy setting at the Crowne Plaza
hotel. Sauna, jacuzzi and massage too.QOpen 06:30 23:00. Day tickets valid 08:00-16:00 cost 65 lei, tickets
valid 16:00-23:00 cost 90 lei. Children under 16 cost 50
lei at any time of day if accompanied by an adult.
Hilton Health Club C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee
Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Indoor pool,

sauna, steam room, massage, weight and fitness room, and
a host of other wellness facilities. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day
tickets cost 120 lei.
InterContinental Hotel C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu

4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably
the highest swimming pool in Romania (its on one of the top
floors of the InterContinental hotel). The views are great,
there is a gym and steam room too, and you can sunbathe
on the balcony. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets valid from
06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei (adults), 40 lei (children). Tickets valid
from 06:00-22:00 cost 120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children).
Pescariu Sports & Spa D-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4)
021 242 16 15, www.pescariusports.ro. Good outdoor

and indoor pools open to the public. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Adults 60 lei Mon-Fri, 100 lei Sat,
Sun. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. Free for children
under three.
Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021

209 41 70.
Hungary C-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel. (+4)
031 620 43 00.

Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310
21 31.
Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4)
021 210 08 80.
Moldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74.
Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4)
021 208 60 30.
Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211
98 71.
Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00.
Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20,
tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
For a full list of foreign embassies and representations
in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.
Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18, www.
elchei.ro. Call (+4) 0722 20 51 10 ifyou get locked out of your

apartment late at night.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/

(+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@
aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro.
Athena Greek School of Bucharest D-6, Str.
Parfumului 9, www.greekschool.ro.
British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae
42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33,
office@britishschool.ro, www.britishschool.ro.
Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile
Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87, www.
bcaromania.org.
Cambridge School of Bucharest B-3, Calea
Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021
210 21 38, www.cambridgeschool.ro.
International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori
21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253
16 97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
International School for Primary Education

(InSPE) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Resi-
dence, tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36

36, fax (+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www.
inspe.ro.
International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara
Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021
306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro.
IOANID Preschool International Education Str.
Jandarmeriei 14, Complex Rezidential Stejarii, www.
internationalkindergarden.ro.
Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85,
fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com,
www.jpschool.ro.
Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021
320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@
yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro.
Lycee Francais B-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4)
021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 94, fax (+4) 021
312 09 74, lfb.adn@lyfrabuc.ro, www.lyfrabuc.ro.
Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu
Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00
09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwainschool.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro.
Pharmacies
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Q Open
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other
locations around the city.
Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu.
com. QOpen 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, and many
other locations.
Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur
Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918),
tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66.
Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4)
031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.
WiFi W
Bucharest is now dotted with hundreds of Wifi hotspots,
and the vast majority are free. It is rare in fact that you
will come across a venue which does not have Wifi.
Usually, all you will need is a password (divulged as you
order something) though many venues in Old Town dont
even bother: you can simply sit down and start surfing
away. In our listings, we have used the Wifi symbol W
to denote all venues which have Wifi.
93
Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
98
Street register & HOTEL MAP INDEX

13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str.
C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral.,
Str. B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6
Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
A5
Covaci, Str.
C6
Crisana, Str.
A5
Crisului, Str.
C6
Cronicarilor, Str.
C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd.
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr.
B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str.
C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str. B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Izvor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5
Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata
B6
Neculce Ion, Str.
A3
Negri Costache, Str.
A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
C3
Occidentului, Str.
B4
Oslo, Str.
B3
Ostasilor, Str.
B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str.
B3
Parvan Vasile, Str.
B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
A6
Patriarhiei, Str.
C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str.
B4
Pitar Mos, Str.
C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
B5
Politie, Str.
B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
A4
Polona, Str.
C4
Poni Petru, Str.
A4
Popa Tatu, Str.
B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
A6
Povernei, Str.
B4
Praga, Str.
B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3
INDEX TO HOTEL
NUMBERS ON MAp
H1
Helvetia (closed)
H2
Casa Victor
H3
Picollo Mondo
H4
Hello Hotels
H5 Andys
H6 Moxa
H7 Starlight
H8 Duke
H9
Golden Tulip
H10 Residence Arcul de Trimf
H11
Hotel Dan
H12
JW Marriott
H13 Parliament
H14
Ibis Parlament
H15 Volo
H16 Berthelot
H17
Centre Ville
H18 Opera
H19 Palace
H20 Central
H21
Carol Parc
H22 Hilton
H23 Novotel
H24 Capitol
H25
Grand Continental
H26
Lido (closed)
H27 Ambasador
H28
Radisson Blu
H29 Rembrandt
H30 Tania
H31 Relax Comfort Suites
H32 Intercontinental
H33
K+K Elisabeta
H34 Horoscop
H35
Tempo Hotel
H36 Royal
H37 International Bucharest
H38
Hotel Confort Traian
H39 Double Tree by Hilton
H40
Ramada Majestic
H41
Ibis Gara De Nord
H42
Suter Inn
H43
NH Bucharest
H44
Howard Johnson
H45 Scala
H46 Trianon
H47 Epoque
H48
Z Boutique
H49
Nonna Mia
H50 Boutique Hotel Monaco
H51
Minerva
H52 Cismigiu
H53
Europa Royale
H54
Marshal Garden

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How contemporary art took

Old Town Bucharest

The parts of Bucharest lesser

N85 - 15.00 lei

Arrival & Transport

Old Town / Lipscani

The heart and soul of the city

Culture & Events

Where to buy your souvenirs

Including Hurts & Tom Jones

Know your tuica from your palinca

Everything you need including foreign

Maps & Street Register

October - November 2013

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Its now 21 years since we published

We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one

While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007,

When Things Go Wrong

Bucharest In Your Pocket

A brief history of Bucharest (1)

A brief history of Bucharest (2)

While there are traces of settlements around Bucharest

In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada

Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of

It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucharest

Time & People

October - November 2013

One 1 is currently worth 4.40 lei. A pint of local beer in a

Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of

Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage

Local laws & Police

If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea

A Word From Bucharests Mayor

Bucharest In Your Pocket

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100

The Romanian political scene has been relatively sensible

The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara

Some trusted taxi companies:

Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Bucharest - Belgrade Tarom flies to Belgrade once a

Bucharest - Budapest There are three flights from

Bucharest - Kyiv Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes

Bucharests only commercial airport is now Otopeni

October - November 2013

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Public Transport Tickets

To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Arrival 2: Gara de Nord

Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Underpass,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large, spacious,

All of the major international car hire firms are present in

Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN

Schedule checked September 30, 2013. The full Romanian

Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as

Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. AVIS (2847) - OSSN