BucharestInYourPocket March2013 PDF

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
BUCHAREST
February - March 2013
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.

The New York Times
Bucharest In Two Days

Our definitive list of
what to see if your time
in Bucharest is limited
Calea Victoriei
The full-length remix
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bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Old Town/Lipscani
In Your Pocket
A 17-page special feature
on Bucharests Old Town
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Bucharest Basics
6
Everything you always wanted to know about Bucharest and Romania, but were afraid to ask
Arrival & Transport
10
Navigating Bucharest
Culture & Events

14
Including full opera and classical music schedules
Bucharest In Two Days
20
What to see if your time is limited
Calea Victoriei
23
Bucharests finest street in all its glory
Where to Stay
28
From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps
We have regularly over the past year or two featured

Bucharests most famous street, Calea Victoriei, in the
guide. This time we have pulled out all the stops to include
a fully revised feature, spread over five pages from page
23.
Restaurants
38
Where to eat
Nightlife
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like
58
Sightseeing
What to see
Where to spend your days
66
Old Town / Lipscani
72
The heart and soul of the city
Directory & Children
88
Everything you need including foreign

embassies, pharmacies, dentists,
playgrounds and private schools
Maps & Street Register

Lesser Visited Bucharest. As a juxtaposition to our
Bucharest In Two Days feature, we take a look at one of
Bucharests less-celebrated districts, Titan-Balta Alba.
See page 22.
Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
Street Register & Hotel Map Index
94
96
98
Foreword
It seems one thousand years ago that the centre of
Bucharest was under siege from anti-government
protestors and various assorted hooligans: in fact,
it was this time last year. Much has changed since
then of course - most notably the government. A
new coalition of liberals and social-democrats was
elected with a massive majority in Decembers
parliamentary election, and although the president
Traian Basescu hangs on, the madness that was
the Romanian political scene for most of last year
has abated. For now at least.
So its very much now a case of as you were,
with corruption the number one issue of the day.
That and the UK governments rather craven idea
of launching a campaign to persuade Romanians
that they do not want to go to and live in Britain.
The reaction to the idea in Romania has been
quite wonderful: instead of panning the UK (the
easiest and perhaps most predictable response)
Romanians have launched their own campaign
championing all thats great about this fine country.
Bucharest and its many charms - especially
nightlife most European cities envy - has figured
heavily in the clever, witty Romanian response
to the UKs perceived youre not welcome here
approach. Fortunately, the opposite is not true:
foreigners are very much welcome in Romania.
Enjoy Bucharest, enjoy Romania.
We love to hear from our readers: maybe you
disagree with us, or maybe you think we have
left out a venue or attraction that really should
be included. Whatever you think, drop us a line
at: editor@inyourpocket.com.
Cover story
The glorious, Art Deco Union Building,
just off Calea Victoriei. See page 26. Photo by Emi Cristea at Dreamstime.com.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Bucharest In Your Pocket

Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3
Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8
014191 Bucuresti, Romania
tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
fax (+4) 021 322 25 22
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl
Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest
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Editor Craig Turp
Assistant Editor Raluca Tanasa
Photography Craig Turp/IYP
Romania Srl unless otherwise stated.
Cover photo Emi Cristea at
Dreamstime.com
Train timetable by Maximilian Turp-Balazs
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Bucharest Basics
bucharest Basics
So where am I exactly?
Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one

of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is
rare and almost always carried out exclusively between
rival gangs fighting for the control of territory in the citys
less-salubrious areas.
If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting
into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should
be particularly careful on crowded buses, and always watch
your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty thieves are by and large
a cowardly lot in Romania and will run a mile at the first sign of
any resistance. Knife-crime is unheard of, and even women can
walk the citys streets alone at night in relative safety.
The Romanian police force is also far better and less
corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on
the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town
at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul
Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and
Piata Victoriei.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of
them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense
and all will be well.
Customs Regulations
While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007,

which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement
of goods between member countries, United Kingdom
customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such
you are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes
purchased in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged
to point out, however, that you will be passing through the
blue channel on arrival in the UK and the chances of being
stopped are almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere
in the EU, there are no limits on the amount of cigarettes
you can bring home from Romania.
Alcohol is likewise unrestricted. For those of you travelling
outside of the EU when leaving Romania, you should check
the import limits on fags and booze with your destination
country before travelling. The export of some antiques
purchased in Romania (especially old religious icons) is
subject to the completion of tedious paperwork, although
any reputable antiques store or dealer will be able to take
care of this for you. Ask when buying if you are not sure.
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of

the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest
is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one
of the three historic principalities which make up the
modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while
Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single
country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form
only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of
Transylvania voted to join in the fun.
The official population of Bucharest is just over two
million people, but as many migrants from the rest of
the country do not bother to register as citizens of the
capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three
million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (just 69 kilometres to
the south), which serves as the border between Romania
and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu,
linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the
other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well
worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will
need a car, as train services between Bucharest and
Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta
and the Black Sea coast, but as the A2 motorway only
goes as far as Cernavoda, even the maddest of drivers
fail to do the trip in much under three hours. Like most
trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is
slow and it takes four and a half hours.
To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of
Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian
Mountains, a two hour drive away.
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage

lockers. You will find the left luggage counter next to the Relay
press store, opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from
the platforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per small bag per
24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office keeps
irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly),
so always make sure there will be someone on hand to give
you back your bag when you want to pick it up. There are not
currently any left luggage facilities at Otopeni airport.
When Things Go Wrong

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city
code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll
be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call
centre operators should speak English or French but in our
experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you
know the name of the street you are calling from.
If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call
your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The citys main
police station is the new building at (B-4) Str. Lascar
Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the
city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8,
next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box
on page 8. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 92,
and an English speaking Dentist on page 89.
Etiquette
In their own homes, Romanians are by and large fabulous

hosts. So much so that making friends and getting yourself
invited should be top of your list of things to do while in the
country! You had better be hungry, because the food never
stops coming, on and on, dish after dish. You must bring
something: flowers, chocolates or a bottle of good whisky.
You will probably be offered local brandy, uica. It will grow
on you. Most Romanians love to chat about their country, its
politics, problems and troubled history. Dont be surprised if
they ask you very direct questions. In all cases, it is probably
best to be diplomatic in response.
Left Luggage
A Word From Bucharests Mayor

I am one of the over two million
inhabitants of Bucharest. This
is where I was born, and where
I grew up. I know both the bright
and dark sides of every nook and
cranny. I have learned the history
of each stone, and experienced
romance while wandering in Herastrau Park or admiring
the city by night.
I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back
home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest
over and over again. I am sure that there would have been
no better place in Romania to build my medical career,
with all the professional and academic opportunities
that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to
give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of
Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this
city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in.
Bucharest is Romanias most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more
than 20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is inhabited
by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All
major financial and political institutions are based here.
As one of 27 European capitals, Bucharest is eager
to share its cultural heritage with the community and
the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this
wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse:
Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its
guests with its eternal and motley poetry.

Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
bucharest Basics
Time & People
Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT +
2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population of Romania is 19,042,936, and of Bucharest 1.7
million according to figures from the 2011 census.
Health
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than
adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a
lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei
notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner
is recommended. In an emergency you should call tel.
112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance. The best
state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta, C-3,
Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23 00. If your child
becomes ill, you should take him or her to the excellent
childrens emergency hospital, found at (B-4), B-dul
Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. A
list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 93.
Taxi Tactics
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea

to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving
license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas)
leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the
contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to
speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 90.
Money
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100

bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5
bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian
money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash,
then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and
debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club
cards are less widely accepted.
Toilets
The only decent public toilets in town are those in the Piata
Universitatii underpass (which are free) and those at Gara
de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu).
1 = 4.37 lei, 1 = 5.07 lei

US$1 = 3.22 lei
(As of January 31 2013)
Bucharests dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly

liberal sense of equal opportunities: basically, when it
comes to ripping people off, they view anyone as fair
game. Locals, foreigners, young, old, male, female:
anyone who steps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect
to be well and truly buggered. The important thing to
remember when getting into a taxi in this city is that there
are two kinds: those which are operated by a tried and
trusted taxi company (usually good) and independents
(usually bad). The problem is spotting the difference.
By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as
they are emblazoned with the name and phone number
of the company they are associated with. To counter
this, however, the independents have also started
to plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside
copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those of decent
taxi companies.

The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to
pay careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on the driver
and passenger door of all taxis. There should just now
be one single tarif displayed, and anything higher than
1.69 lei per kilometre should start alarm bells ringing.
Be extra careful around Gara de Nord, Baneasa
Airport, Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universitatii, Piata
Unirii and in Old Town, at the National Bank. To avoid
any problems, call one of the taxi companies listed below.
If you are in a hotel or restaurant, ask your concierge or
waiter/waitress to call a taxi for you.

If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi,
note down the drivers number and call his company to
report him.
Some trusted taxi companies:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort

021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Mavi
021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423,
Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi Total
021 9424. Most of these companies have at least
one operator who speaks English.
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Arrival 1: Otopeni
Arrival 2: Gara de Nord
Moving On
Bucharests only commercial airport is now Otopeni

(officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the
DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. Baneasa Airport - until recently
the citys low-cost hub - closed its doors to airlines in
March 2012.
After getting off the plane and easing your way through
passport control, youll find yourself in the baggage reclaim
area. Ignore all of the services on offer here. You should
especially ignore the currency exchange desks: they do
not offer decent rates. Instead, grab your luggage, which
usually arrives promptly (if it fails to arrive head for the
small office on the right hand of side of the exit, where
staff will help you find out where it might have gone), and
then its off through customs to the arrivals area.
Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and
a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the
departures terminal: the passage is lined with car hire
desks and a few shops, including a chemist.
At the end of January the Minister of Transport announced welcome plans to kick the rip-off taxis out of the
airport, and allow taxis from ordinary Bucharest taxi companies - such as Apolodor, Autogeneral, Cobalcescu,
CrisTaxi, Leone, Meridian, Mondial, National, Pelican,
Prof or Speed Taxi - charging the regular price of 1.69 lei,
to pick up passengers from directly outside the arrivals
terminal. However, the situation was in flux as we went to
press, and so we recommend that you continue to do what
we have always recommended: ignore any taxi driver who
approaches you at the airport, and either order one (from
one of the companies listed above: phone numbers are
on page 8) or, instead, walk through to Departures (turn
right as you exit baggage claim) and simply take a regular
taxi as it drops somebody off. There is a constant stream
of these, even late at night, and you should never have to
wait too long. In all cases, never pay more than 1.69 lei/km
and make sure the metre is working!
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops
underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and
leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata
Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the
day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full
timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus,
the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15
to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes.
You need to purchase an Activ Card before boarding
(get it from the little booth which youll find on your right
hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city and
back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no
time limit on using the return). You also need to pay 3.70 lei
for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you
like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with as much credit
as you wish, and used on all Bucharest buses, trams and
the metro. These cards cannot be bought on board.
There is also a train which connects the airport to the
main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at
irregular and infrequent intervals, however, and to get to
the airports station you need to take a minibus. We do
not recommend it. Timetables and tickets are available
from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete
CFR sign.
If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara

de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues,
tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,
shops, kiosks and a McDonalds. To get to town take
an honest taxi from outside (beware sharks) or take the
metro: you are just two stops away from Piata Victoriei. To
get to the airport from Gara de Nord, take bus 780.
WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels
send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains.
Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off
the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be
approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert
you from your intended destination (often by saying that
the place you want to go to is closed) towards another
hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore
anything they say and wave them away.
Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring

countries (Serbia, Hungary, Ukraine, Moldova and
Bulgaria) is not as easy, quick or inexpensive as you
would expect. Given the lack of good road connections
you would think that there might be high-speed train
connections instead. Well, think again. There are in
fact direct trains to just two of the five neighbouring
capitals (Budapest and Chisinau) both services
painfully slow. To Sofia, Belgrade and Kyiv there is
currently no direct train service from Bucharest.
Anyway, here is a rundown of the fastest and cheapest ways of getting from capital to capital...
Public transport
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by
bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city centre
benefit from three or four different bus routes. Most buses
are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them is a less
than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams
run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around
23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night buses take
over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an
hourly service throughout the night. All night buses depart
from Piata Unirii.
Public Transport Tickets
To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ

Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70 lei, are
valid on all forms of public transport (including the metro)
and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops.
They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei, maximum
50 lei) and are reusable: you can reload them as many times
as needs be. The card is then debited each time you validate
it at one of the orange devices located on buses, trams and
trolleybuses, or at the entrance to the metro. One trip by
surface transport costs 1.30 lei, a metro trip costs 2.00
lei. You can also purchase a day-ticket valid on all the citys
buses, trolleybuses and trams. It costs 9.60 lei.
You can now also buy joint bus and metro tickets, valid
not just for one or two journeys but for an unlimited number
of journeys over a designated period of time. A 60-minute
RATB (bus, tram, trolleybus) and metro ticket costs 5 lei,
while a 24-hour ticket costs 16 lei. Tickets are valid from
the moment they are electronically franked on a bus or at
a metro station, and must be franked at the start of each
journey. Also - and this is a bonus - they are valid until the
end of the last journey you make. So if you get on a bus or
metro one minute before your ticket expires, you can still
complete your journey without being fined.
On all forms of public transport children under the age
of seven travel free. After that age they need a full-price
ticket.
Metro
Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the

vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to
the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and
Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan
working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city
centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south
M2 line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas
Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de
Bucharest - Belgrade
Tarom flies to Belgrade once a day, with prices from

218 return. Incredibly, there is currently no train service
between Bucharest and Belgrade, unless you fancy a
40 hour trip via Budapest which includes no fewer than
four changes.
Bucharest - Budapest
There are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each

day, all operated by Tarom. Standard return prices start
at 207, although you can often find cheaper tickets if
you book far enough in advance.
There are also three direct trains connecting the two
cities: the fastest daytime leaves at 05:45 (arriving in
Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40
and arrives at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping
wagon is around 90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta
(sharing with up to five others) costs 53. Again, the
best place to buy international train tickets in Bucharest
is Wasteels, at Gara de Nord.
Bucharest - Chisinau
There are four flights a day between Bucharest and

Chisinau, and if bought far enough in advance return
plane tickets with Tarom can cost as little as 122. Air
Moldova also fly the same route, tickets costing slightly
more, around 144 return.
The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at
19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 09:02 the
next morning. Tickets cost from 41 (single).
Bucharest - Kyiv
Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of spare

cash or patience. Just one airline flies direct to Kyiv from
Bucharest, Aerosvit, and prices start at a monopolytastic 334 return.
The train to Kyiv takes a whopping 30 hours and 17
minutes, leaving Bucharest at 19:40, arriving in Kyiv at
00:57 the following night. The train is not direct: you need
to change in Chisinau. Tickets cost from 63 (single).
Bucharest - Sofia
Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around 140, with either Tarom or Bulgaria Air. There are two or three flights
per day depending on the day of the week. There are not
currently any direct trains from Bucharest to Sofia.
Much faster (and cheaper) is the daily coach linking
Bucharest and Sofia. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach
station next to Parcul Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. Tickets cost
18 single (35 return) and can be bought direct form
the driver.
11
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Train Schedule
Tourist Information
From Bucharest
To Bucharest
Dep
Arr.
Dep. Arr.
IR 23:45 10:39
ARAD
IR 18:53 05:43
IR 05:45 08:28
BRASOV
IR 06:01 08:47
IC 13:10 15:36
BRASOV
IR 09:23 12:00
IC 15:30 18:08
BRASOV
ICN 09:40 12:10
ICN 17:40 20:09
BRASOV
IR 17:10 19:48
IR 18:30 21:09
BRASOV
IC 20:40 23:05
IR 20:30 06:07 CLUJ-NAPOCA IR 23:28 08:47
IR 08:30 11:25 CONSTANTA IR 13:30 16:10
IR 14:00 16:35 CONSTANTA IR 17:20 20:00
IR 12:45 15:43
CRAIOVA
IR 19:32 22:27
IR 13:40 17:34
GALATI
IR 09:25 13:18
IR 12:00 18:58
IASI
IR 14:20 21:30
IR 23:00 05:53
IASI
IR 23:30 06:30
IC 13:10 01:05
ORADEA
IC 11:30 23:05
IR 21:20 11:13 SATU MARE IR 16:37 06:13
IR 15:30 21:04
SIBIU
IR 15:30 21:14
IC 13:10 18:01 SIGHISOARA IC 18:22 23:05
IR 11:10 19:25 TIRGU MURES IR 13:12 21:40
IR 10:45 19:15 TIMISOARA IR 07:15 16:30
IR 12:45 21:11 TIMISOARA IR 14:10 22:27
Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Under-
pass, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large,

spacious tourist information centre. Usually stocks copies
of our guide, or mini-guide. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Info Tourist Point C-6, Metro Unirii 1, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 21 73 18. Find it inside Piata Unirii
metro station. Usually stocks copies of Bucharest In Your
Pocket. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Info Tourist Point A-4, Inside Gara de Nord, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 0371 15 50 63, www.infotourist.
ro. A small kiosk staffed by friendly young locals ready to
help as best they can with all the questions new arrivals
might have. The kiosk is stocked with leaflets, maps,
brochures etc. and of course: Bucharest In Your Pocket.
Q Open 09:00-21:00.
Car Rental
Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN
Schedule valid from December 8, 2012. The full Romanian

railway timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.
Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost

as cheap as for the trams and buses: they cost either 4 lei (valid
for two trips; doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii)
and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy
tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The
metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.
Trains
Given that Romanias roads are so bad, its comforting to know
that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that,
many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest - Brasov
and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now approaching completion, and journey times are more or less back to something
approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours to Brasov,
slightly more to Constanta. Always try to get an InterCity (IC)
or InterRegio (IR) train as they are the fastest and usually
have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains (which
until recently were known as Personal), are slow and use much
older rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN:
these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than
usual, and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types of
train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult
single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 78.50 lei.
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are four

per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau and Kyiv. To
buy train tickets, visit either the station, the CFR agency we list
below or buy online at www.cfr.ro/calatori. Your best bet for
the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the station.
In all cases, do not leave buying tickets to the last minute: long
queues could mean you miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on the train, though in the worst case scenario you can
try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually.
Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia 1014, tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. CFRs advance booking
office. Reservations for all kinds of trains. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Wasteels A-4, Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03 70/021
300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reservations for all types
of trains, national and international. Helpful staff, western currencies
accepted. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
(One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4)
021 210 69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. A
delivery and collection service is available free of charge within
the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on
the availability of the Avis rental office. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021
314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International
Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and
Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730
33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22
28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.bavariarent.ro. QOpen

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00,
Sat 08:00-20:00.
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.ro,
www.budgetro.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel),
tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204
16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),

tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0730 09 39 85, fax
(+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.
cars4rent.ro.Good car hire from the people behind the
Charter Hotel.Q Open 24 hrs.
Compact Rent-a-Car
A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel.

(+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021
312 99 82, office@compact-rentacar.ro, www.compactrentacar.ro. Q Prices from 18/day.
Europcar D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310
17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@europcar.com.ro, www.europcar.ro. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40.
Service also available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara.
Hertz Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office
1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz.ro,
www.hertz.ro. Q Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021
204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00;
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro,
www.sixt.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
13
14
CULTURE & Events

Venues & Tickets
Tickets for all of the events listed on these pages can be
purchased at branches at the box offices of the venues
themselves or online at eventim.ro, bilete.ro, biletoo.
ro and vreaubilet.ro.
Arenele Romane Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul

Carol), MEroii Revolutiei.
Ateneul Romn C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, (+4) 021 315 68 75

for tickets, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat
16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00. Closed
Mon. Tickets from 8.00 lei to 34.00 lei.
biletoo.ro C-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.biletoo.ro. Buy tickets

for more or less all events in Bucharest either online at
biletoo.ro or at the various outlets around the city: the
most central is in Unirea, on the ground floor just inside
the entrance next to McDonalds.
Cinema Patria C-5, B-dul Magheru 12-14, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 316 92 66, www.cinemapatria.ro.
Club Control C-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.controlclub.ro.
Club Fabrica B-7, Str. 11 Iunie 50, tel. (+4) 021 335
0323, office@fabrica-club.ro, www.fabrica-club.ro.
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
021 206 62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, www.

hardrock.com/bucharest. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
Bucharest In Your Pocket offers the widest selection of

concerts, events, club nights and exhibitions in Bucharest.
We in general welcome submissions, so if you have an
event you want to publicise, however big or small, you can
do so here: absolutely free. Send details of your event to
bucharest@inyourpocket.com.
Rock & Pop Concerts

05.02 Tuesday Slash
B-5, Sala Palatului. Former Guns & Roses guitarist Slash,

famous for sharing his house with a snake, comes to Romania with his current band, featuring Myles Kennedy and the
Conspirators. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets from 100-360 lei from
www.eventim.ro or the Sala Palatului box office.
14.02 Thursday Paula Seling
B-5, Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune). Fit as you like, Paula

Seling is one of the countrys best female singers (and the
last Romanian to put on a decent performance at Eurovision:
she came third in 2010 wearing a magnificent pair of leather
trousers) and this is a good chance to catch her in concert
with a big band and an orchestra. Bargain priced tickets too.
Get in. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 20-30 lei from www.bilete.
ro or the Sala Radio box office.
15.02 Friday Bad Boys Blue
C-5, Cinema Patria. Multi-national, Germany-based Europop/dance trio who were massively popular in these parts
during the late 1980s and 90s, with hits like Youre a Woman,
Pretty Young Girl, I Wanna Hear Your Heartbeat and Come
Back and Stay. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-250
lei from biletoo.ro.
22.02 Friday El Negro
B-7, Club Fabrica. Romanias best Bob Marley tribute act,

who have been around since 1999. Well worth seeing. Q
Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 20 lei in advance from
biletoo.ro.
25.02 Monday - 26.02 Tuesday Holograf
Nicolae Blcescu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021

314 71 71, www.tnb.ro. Q Box office open Mon
10:00-16:00, Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00.
B-5, Sala Palatului. One of Romanias best loved and

longest-serving pop bands, led by the evergreen Dan Bittman
who was, amongst other things, the first singer to represent
Romania in the Eurovision Song Contest, back in 1994. Q
Concerts start at 19:30. Sold out.
Romanian National Opera (ONB) (Opera Nationala Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
26.02 Tuesday The Troggs & The Animals
National Theatre (Teatrul National) C-5, B-dul
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb.ro.

Q Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
Romexpo B-dul Mrsti 65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207

70 00, www.romexpo.org.
Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open
Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretu-
lui/ Calea Piscului 10), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 031

425 78 01, www.salapolivalenta.ro.
Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5, Str. Berthelot

60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70/(+4) 021 303 12
97, www.srr.ro.
Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel.
(+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro.
A-2, Hard Rock Cafe. While the current Animals line-up

includes two of the original band members (John Steel and
Mickey Gallagher), The Troggs trot on with a threesome
formed of Chris Britton, Pete Lucas and Dave Maggs, Reg
Presley having sadly died earlier this year. Q Starts 21:00.
Tickets 75-100 lei from www.infomusic.ro. For table reservations contact the Hard Rock Cafe direct.
27.02 Wednesday - 28.02 Thurs. Horia Brenciu
B-5, Sala Palatului. Best known as being a judge on the Romanian version of The Voice, Brenciu is not a bad performer
himself, knocking out his own version of classic, swinging hits
accompanied by his very own big band.
01.03 Friday Legends
A-2, Hard Rock Cafe. Three of the best tribute acts in the
world in one evening at the HRC. Jerry Carlson stars as Jerry
Lee Lewis, Rob Kingsley as Elvis Presley and Joseph Lee
Jackson as Freddie Mercury. Q Starts 22:00. Tickets 60120 lei from biletoo.ro. For table reservations contact the
Hard Rock Cafe direct.
16
Culture & Events

Ice Skating in Bucharest
The good people of Bucharest love to ice skate, and
there are a number of open-air rinks around the city on
which you can dream of perfect sixes. The best-known
(and most central) is on the lake at (B-5) Gradina Cismigiu. The rink is in fact artificial (the lake is drained
each winter) but the setting is fabulous. An hour on the
ice here costs from 10 lei, with skate hire costing much
the same. It can get busy so you might have to queue.
Fortunately, there are mulled-wine sellers on hand to
keep you warm. You will also find an open air rink in (C-2)
Parcul Floreasca.
If you want to skate indoors, then the AFI Palace
Cotroceni shopping centre is the place to go. A modestsized rink offers 90 minutes skating for 12-17 lei (children)
and 14-20 lei (adults). Skate hire costs 15 lei. The rink
is open from 10:00-24:00.
Club White (Patinoarul Floreasca) C-2, B-dul
Mircea Eliade 16, www.clubwhite.ro. Large, popular

open-air skating rink. Rent skates for 15 lei. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. Admission 15 lei.
Cotroceni on Ice B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica,

tel. (+40) 21 448 17 32, www.aficotroceni.ro.
Skate year round at this indoor ice rink inside the AFI
Palace mall. Skate hire available. Holds classes weekend
mornings from 9:00-11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri
10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00.
Admission 14-20 lei (adults), 12-17 lei (children). Skate
hire costs 15 lei.
Patinoarul Cismigiu B-5, Gradina Cismigiu, MUni-
versitate, www.cismigiuparc.ro. Cismigiu appears to

have given up trying to freeze its lake, and so this year,
as last, has drained the southern part of the lake and
installed an artificial rink over it. Skate hire available,
10 lei. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.
Free entrance 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 lei, Fri, Sat,
Sun 15 lei.
02.03 Saturday Smokie
B-5, Sala Palatului. Smokie, you know, Who the f*ck is

Alice? Yes, them. Far bigger in these parts than anywhere
else these days it would appear, Smokie are regulars in Romania, and the locals appear to love them. Enjoy. Q Concert
starts 19:00. Tickets 90-250 lei from www.eventim.ro or the
Sala Palatului box office.
07.03 Thursday - 08.03 Friday Stefan Banica Jr.
B-5, Circul Globus. For the third year running the top showman and housewives favourite Stefan Banica Jr. brings an
unplugged approach to his rather Romanian take on rock and
roll especially for International Womens Day. Q Shows
start at 19:30. Tickets from 100-150 lei.
09.03 Saturday Pional
C-5, Control Club, www.control-club.ro. Spanish producer,

remixer and electronic musician. Pional provides the vocals
and all the instrumentation on his tracks, and plays drum
machine during live shows. Q Starts 23:00. Ticket details
not known as we went to press.
11.03 Monday Mono
A-5, Silver Church, www.tscarena.ro/tsca/. Japanese

guitar-based, instrumental post-rock band, formed in 1999
Culture & Events

Opera & Ballet
The Romanian National Opera (Opera Romana) is at B-5,
B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.
operanb.ro. It serves up a familiar repertoire of classic
operas and ballets, and stages child-oriented matinees
most weekend mornings at 11:00. Tickets cost from 5.30
- 63.60 lei, and can be purchased online at www.bilet.ro or
from the Operas own box office, open 09:00-13:00, 15:0019:00. While black tie is not compulsory, you are expected
to dress smartly when attending evening performances.
Below is the full opera and ballet schedule for February and
March 2013. Highlights include a wonderful production of
the childrens fairytale The Snow Queen.
February
Date Time
6
19:00
7
19:00
8
19:00
9
11:00
9
19:00
10
11:00
10
19:00
13
19:00
14
19:00
15
19:00
15
11:00
16
19:00
17
18:30
21
19:00
22
19:00
23
18:30
24
11:00
24
27
28
18:30
18:30
18:30
March
2
2
3
6
7
8
9
11:00
19:00
18:30
19:00
18:30
19:00
11:00
9
10
10
14
15
16
19:00
11:00
19:00
19:00
18:30
11:00
16
17
19:00
11:00
17
21
22
23
23
24
28
30
31
19:00
19:00
19:00
11:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
Event
The Nutcracker
Turandot
La Boheme
The Enchanted Flute
Giselle
The Snow Queen
Nabucco
Tango Emocion
A Winter's Journey
From Classic to Modern
The Snow Queen
Gershwin Evening
Don Giovanni
Sleeping Beauty
A Masked Ball
Mephistopheles
Snow White & the Seven
Dwarves
Don Giovanni
Don Quixote
Carmen
The Enchanted Flute
Ballet Evening
Oedipus
La Traviata
Anna Karenina
L'Elisir d'Amore
A Midsummer Night's
Dream
Nabucco
Hansel & Gretl
Rigoletto
Giselle
Mephistoles
A Midsummer Night's
Dream
Don Giovanni
Snow White & the Seven
Dwarves
The Marriage of Figaro
Sleeping Beauty
The Barber of Seville
The Children's Room
La Boheme
Il Corsaro
Don Giovanni
Gala: Verdi & Wagner 200
Gala: Verdi & Wagner 200
Venue
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
ONB
in Tokyo. Primarily a live band, they have toured worldwide

several times and their live show is meant to be rather special.
Q Doors open 21:00. Tickets 60 lei on the night.
15.03 Friday Vaya Con Dios
B-5, Sala Palatului. Belgiums finest export since Eddy

Merckx return to Romania for what is certain to be another
sell-out show. With a string of hits to rival anyone they are
one of our fave bands of the past couple of decades, so
expect to see us there. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets from 120
lei to 300 lei, available online at www.eventim.ro ar the Sala
Palatului box office.
Live Music
Finding good live music is no longer the problem in Bucharest it once was. In fact, on most nights - especially
at the weekend - you will be spoilt for choice.
Your first stop for regular live acts should be Mojo in
the Old Town (see page 88) which hosts top local bands
alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt Petersburg
opposite also has live music a couple of times per week.
Club A, on Strada Blanari, is another decent bet, while
True Social Club has live music every night.
Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe, Control
(see page 61) and Panic (page 63) are known for their
range of live music, while Kulturhaus and Music Club
similarly have live bands on most evenings. For live jazz,
try Art Jazz Club and Green Hours (see page 64).
At Divan (the best Turkish restaurant in the city) there is
live oriental music and dancing, and a Turkish DJ, every Friday
and Saturday night at 21:30.
16.03 Saturday Helloween & Gamma Ray
B-7, Arenele Romane. German power metal band

founded in 1984. The band was a pioneering force in
power metal and their second and third studio albums,
Keeper of the Seven Keys, Pt. 1 and Pt. 2, are considered masterpieces of the genre. Gamma Ray - founded
and fronted by Kai Hansen after his departure from Helloween - offer support. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 87-97
lei from www.eventim.ro.
31.03 Sunday Yanni
B-5, Sala Palatului. Greek pianist, keyboard player,

composer, and music producer who mixes jazz, classical, soft rock, and world music to create predominantly
instrumental works. Very big in these parts his concerts
have become an annual event. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets
from 105-1200 lei, from www.vreaubilet.ro or the Sala
Palatului box office.
Special Events
20.02 Wednesday Ballet on Ice: Swan Lake
B-5, Sala Palatului. A stunning production of the classic

ballet Swan Lake performed on ice by the Imperial Ice Stars.
There are two performances, one at 16:00, and one at 20:00.
Q First performance starts 16:00, second performance
starts 20:00. Tickets from 150-250 lei from www.eventim.
ro or the Sala Palatului box office.
24.02 Sunday Russian Ballet
B-5, Sala Palatului. A ballet showcase featuring scenes from

three of the worlds most famous ballets: Swan Lake, The
Nutcracker and Sleeping Beauty. Q Performance starts
at 19:30. Tickets 60-150 lei from biletoo.ro.
17
18
Culture & Events

31.03 Sunday Madrid Flamenco Ballet
Culture & Events
B-5, Sala Palatului. Artistic director Luciano Ruiz brings his

latest show Espaa Baila Flamenco to Bucharest, featuring
more than 30 top flamenco dancers, including Sara Lezana.
Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 50-160 lei from www.eventim.ro or
the Sala Palatului box office.
DJ who has been one of the worlds biggest names for the
best part of 20 years returns to Romania for a set at Club
Kristal. Opening will be Alex & Mircea Babescu, as well as the
clubs resident DJ Mahony. Q Doors open 23:00. Tickets in
advance from www.myticket.ro 30 lei, or 40 lei on the door
(before midnight), 50 lei after.
Superstar DJs
08.03 Friday
16.02 Saturday Cadenza Night
Sala Polivalenta. Cadenza Night presents Luciano, Mirko

Loko, Andrea Oliva and Lee Van Dowski on one bill for a long
night of top sounds at the Sala Polivalenta. Q Starts 22:00.
Tickets 60 lei in advance from www.bilete.ro, Music Box (E-6;
Str. Matei Basarab 16) or 80 lei on the night.
23.02 Saturday John Digweed
B-5, Kristal Glam Club, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34, tel.

(+40) 722 795 184, www.clubkristal.com. Legendary
The Mission: Nina Kraviz, Ellen Allien, Miss

Kittin, Alexandra
Arenele Romane, tel. (+4) 0722 39 92 28. The Mission
brings a new twist to club nights in Bucharest especially
for International Womens Day: an all-female line up of
superstar DJs performing behind the decks at the Arenele
Romane (in an enormous heated tent). Steamy. Q Starts
22:00. Tickets in advance from www.bilete.ro 40 lei, or 60
lei on the door.
Classical Music Concerts

Classical music concerts are held at two venues in particular
in Bucharest: the Atheneum and the Sala Radio.
Ateneul Romn C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel.
(+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly the finest

building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum was the work
of French architect Albert Galleon, who also designed the
National Bank of Romania. The building was inaugurated
on February 26, 1888. Today the seat of the Romanian
February 2013
Date
Time
5
19:00
6
19:00
7
19:00
8
19:00
8
19:00
12
19:00
13
19:00
14
19:00
15
19:00
15
19:00
19
19:00
20
19:00
21
19:00
22
19:00
22
19:00
24
11:00
26
19:00
27
19:00
28
19:00
March 2013
Date
Time
1
19:00
6
19:00
8
19:00
13
19:00
14
19:00
15
19:00
18
19:00
21
19:00
22
19:00
27
19:00
29
19:00
30
19:00
Philarmonic George Enescu, the main auditorium is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. QBox office
open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00,
16:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64,

tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, www.srr.ro. The National Radio
Orchestra is one of the best in the country and happens to have
its very own music hall in the national radio building.
Event
Piano recital: Bach, Brahms
Do you like Brahms?
Symphony: Wagner, Lizst, Dvorak
Symphony: Wagner, Lizst, Dvorak
Radio Chamber Orchestra: Mendelssoh, Dvorak
Piano recital: Chopin, Enescu, Messiaen
Symphony: Rameau, Mozart, Ravel
Symphony: Strauss, Schubert
National Radio Orchestra: Wagner, Schumann, Berlioz
Symphony: Strauss, Schubert
Piano and flute recital: Toduta, Muczynski, Mower
Recital: Broschi, Saint Saens, Rossini, Verdi, Mozart
Symphony: Draga, von Weber, Stravinksy, Tchaikovsky
Symphony: Draga, von Weber, Stravinksy, Tchaikovsky
National Radio Orchestra: Debussy, Poulenc
Classic Fantastic: Understanding Music (Wagner, Verdi)
Classic jazz with Mircea Tiberian
Radio Chamber Orchestra: Mozart
Symphony: Mitropoulos, Brahms, Perpessus
Event
National Radio Orchestra: Mozart
Piano Recital: Schumann, Beethoven, Brahms
National Radio Orchestra: Ravel, Terenyi, Shostakovici
Radio Chamber Orchestra: Salieri, Pulenc, Mahler
Radio Choir: Romanian Religious Music
National Radio Orchestra: Dvorak, Franck
Radio Chamber Orchestra: Various Opera Overtures
National Radio Orchestra: Enescu, Lalo
Piano recital: Spanish Evening
Radio Chamber Orchestra: Mozart, Haydn
National Radio Orchestra: Dvorak
Children's Radio Choir: The World of Disney
Venue
Atheneum (Sala Mica)
Sala Radio
Atheneum (Sala Mare)
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Venue
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Sala Radio
Driving in Bucharest
Even if your experience of Romanias roads has so far

been limited to a taxi ride from the airport into town, then
you already know that you are not dealing with the most
thoughtful and considerate drivers on the planet. Quite
what happens to the usually placid Romanian male when
he gets behind the wheel is anyones business. Romanians
are by and large an intelligent bunch, so quite why they
think that vast queues of traffic can magically disappear
at the prolonged sound of their horn is a mystery. Romanian women in general drive far better, less aggresively
and more carefully, though the fie crowd (blonde tarts
in sunglasses who drive jeeps bought for them by their
sponsors) are an exception.
If driving in Romania - especially in Bucharest - you will
need to have nerves of steel, and bags of patience. The
rules of the road as you know them simply do not apply. In

Romania, a good rule of thumb is that the bigger and more
expensive the car, the fewer rules of the road the driver
has to obey.
One-way signs, for example. are purely for decoration.
People in Bucharest ignore them if they are inconvenient.
Pedestrians are not taken into consideration when they
are crossing the road, even if the priority is theirs. Even
at pedestrian crossings, drivers will disregard anyone
crossing the street. If a frail old lady is crossing too slowly,
she can expect to be aggressively hounded.
Drinking and driving is technically against the law,
though it depends on who you are and how much money
you have to offer. Many people in Bucharest - expats
included - drink and drive as a matter of course.
And if you think the people of Bucharest drive badly,
wait until you see them park: anywhere and everywhere
is a parking space in Bucharest. Though you can in theory
have your car towed away for illegal parking, people rarely
do. Our editor even has a website devoted to such things:
visit bucharestlife.net/badlyparkedcars for a rogues
gallery of idiots who have left their cars in often bizarre
places. As with so many aspects of Romanian life, much
of the fault for this (though not all) lies with the police force.
Widely considered to be corrupt from top to bottom (a huge
exaggeration, in fact), some policemen can sometimes
appear to be in awe of the wealthy and their big cars. Indeed,
some strata of Romanian society, such as the celebrated
Manele singers, have allegedly driven unhindered for years
even though they have never bothered taking driving tests,
and have no driving license.
19
20
Bucharest in two days

Our latest readership survey revealed that the majority
of our readers have just two days to see the sights of
Bucharest. As such, we were asked to come up with a list
of those sights which any visitor must see while visiting
the city: the essentials, basically. Having consulted a few
locals, a few expats and even a tour guide or two, this is
the definitive list we came up with. Besides the sights
listed here, we also suggest you find an hour or so to take
a walk around the Old Town (see pages 72-87).
Day 1
Armed with a metro ticket, we suggest you kick things off
at the citys most famous building, the Casa Poporului. It
is as essential as it is predictable. We then suggest taking
the metro to Eroii Revolutiei before getting some fresh
air while wandering around the amazing Bellu Cemetery.
In the afternoon, head for Calea Victoriei, and even if you
do not have time (or the energy) to walk the full length (see
pages 24-28), make sure you take in the George Enescu
and National Art museums.
Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament Palace; Casa

Poporului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3,
MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro/pls/

cic/site.home?idl=EN. What is unquestionably Romanias most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest
days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above
ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded
in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed to
house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today
plays host to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well
equipped conference centre, as well as Romanias Museum
of Contemporary Art. Much of the building, however, remains
unused. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though
the commentary often consists of little more than a guide
reeling off endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of
grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms,
while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to
go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central
Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in
advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring
your passport, driving license or other form of internationally
accepted ID. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the
palace (if youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is probably the
nearest metro station, but youll get a better view from Piata
Unirii. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25
lei adults, 13 lei students (standard tour); 30 lei adults, 13
lei students (standard and basement); 35 lei adults, 18 lei
students (standard and terrace); 45 lei adults, 23 lei students
(standard, terrace and basement). Free for children under 18
and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by
those with cameras, either still or video.
bucharest in two days
profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You

should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps
the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s
in the style of the cathedral at Karlsbad (Karlovy Vary) and
boasting stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is
the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during
the 1989 revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George
Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel.

(+4) 021 318 14 50, www.georgeenescu.ro. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George
Enescus former home, this outstanding Secession house
was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905,
and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the
Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955,
the year of Enescus death, and a year later opened as a
museum dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms
full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful
life of Romanias most famous composer, as well as a full
telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50
lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month.
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de
Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313
30 30, www.mnar.arts.ro. The countrys largest, and most

impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former
Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy
trader Dinicu Golescu. When his sons fell into financial ruin some
years later, they were forced to sell the building to the state,
which carried out huge modifications, adding a number of new
wings. It became a royal residence in 1859, when it became the
site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities,
Alexandru Ion Cuza. Although slightly remodelled in the 1930s,
the building we see today is more or less the original, revolutionary damage notwithstanding. Indeed, some parts of the
building have only recently been reopened after the mindless
vandalism of those mad days in December 1989, when the
building was ransacked by the iconoclastic mob, which saw the
building (named the Palace of the Socialist Republic during
the communist period) as a symbol of the regime. There are
two permanent galleries, split over three floors of the main
building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian
Art - featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and
bibles, and fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian
Art, with all of Romanias greatest 20th century artists well
represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui,
Gheorghe Patracu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European
Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection
of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. The
museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions,
currently including frescoes from the Arges Monastery, and the
works of Carol Popp de Szathmri and the artistic revelation of
the Orient. Essential. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei for The
National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei for combined
tickets (both galleries). P
Bellu Cemetery (Cimitirul Bellu) Calea Serban Voda

249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.
bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharests most
historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every
great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, musician
and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each
has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma
Caragiu, tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977).
You could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by
Day 2
Kick off Day 2 at either the Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum or the Peasant Museum. As they are more
or less opposite each other, just north of Piata Victoriei
metro station, you can mix and match according to where
he queues are shortest (during the week there are unlikely
to be any queues at all). In the afternoon, walk around
Herastrau Park, before ending your Essential Bucharest
tour at the wonderful Village Museum.
Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History (Muzeul

de Istorie Natural Grigore Antipa) B-3, os. Kiseleff
1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, fax (+4)

021 312 88 63, www.antipa.ro. One of Romanias finest
museums, and one of the best natural history museums in
Europe, which recently benefited from a three year, 14 million refit. Packed with terrific exhibits (including the obligatory
dinosaur skeletons) which will keep kids of all ages and their
parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all
sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films,
artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the
incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania.
The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted
Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for
almost five decades until his death in 1944. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20
lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3,
os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96

61, fax (+4) 021 317 96 60, info@muzeultaranuluiroman.ro, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. The Peasant
Museum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one
of the best in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick
building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti, dating from
1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you
all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past
four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of
Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to
terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge
range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on
display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly
for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Museum
of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary
Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation exhibition in
the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft
fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also puts on
childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30
and 12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and has a terrace
cafe (open all weathers thanks to lots of outdoor heaters).
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00.
Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 3 lei.
There are audioguides available in English, French, German
and Romanian from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held
every month or so in the rear courtyard) costs 6 lei.
Herstru Park B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.
The most popular of Bucharests parks is centered on a

lake with which it shares its name. Home to numerous attractions, including childrens playgrounds, an aquarium and
some classy cafes and restaurants, you should look out for
the eclectic collection of statues in the alleyways and paths
which fan out from the entrance. Try and spot local artists
Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman,
as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Foreigners honoured
include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and
Jewish Bucharest
As recently as 1937 there were over 100,000 Jews and
more than 80 synagogues in Bucharest: today there are
around 4,000 Jews and just three working synagogues.
Yet though it may be small, the Jewish community is
incredibly active in the city, and besides the synagogues
has a theatre, a school and a museum. There is also now
a Holocaust Memorial - built in 2009 - which has gone
a long way towards finally drawing a line under Romanias
involvement in the Holocaust.
For a thorough account of the Holocaust in Romania, we
recommend Radu Ioanids book Holocaust in Romania:
The Destruction of Jews & Gypsies by the Antonescu
Regime. For a slightly different look at life as a Jew in 1930s
and 40s Romania, you can do no better than the brilliant
Journal: The Fascist Years, by Mihai Sebastian.
Choral Temple C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, MPiata Unirii,

tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96. Built in 1857, the red brick temple
has a memorial in front of it (visible from the street) that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during
the Holocaust. Usually the busiest Bucharest synagogue, it
is currently closed for extensive renovation.
Holocaust Memorial B-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov,

MEroilor. Unveiled in October 2009, Romanias Holocaust
Memorial finally recognises the countrys role in the genocide
of Europes Jews. The Romanian Holocaust and the deportation of the countrys Jews was ignored by the Communists,
and was minimized by subsequent governments after the
collapse of Communism.
Jewish Cemetery (Cimitirul Evreiesc de Rit
Sefard) C-7, Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei.
Fascinating though harrowing cemetery, full of monuments

to those who died during Romanias pogroms (of which there
were many at the turn of the 19th century) and the Holocaust.
As with all of the citys cemeteries and parks, beware stray
dogs. Q Open from noon to dusk.
Jewish History Museum (Muzeul de Istorie a

Evreilor din Romania) C-6, Str. Mmulari 3, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 08 70. Seperate exhibitions

display how the once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest
used to live. Housed in an old synagogue built in 1850, the
main display is in fact a sculpture that mourns the 350,000
Romanian Jews sent to their deaths at Auschwitz in 1944
and 1945.QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sat. Admission free.
The Great Synagogue C-6, Str. Vasile Adamache 11,

MPiata Unirii. Bucharests Great Synagogue was built from
1845 -1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. With
an impressive mixture of baroque and rococo architectural
styles, the Great Synagogue remains the most important
Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an excellent exhibition dedicated to Romanias Jewish martyrs, and
to Dr. Moses Rosen, who served as Romanias Chief Rabbi
for 30 years until his death in 1994. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00,
Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayers Sun-Fri
08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening Prayers Sun-Fri 19:00.
Yeshoah Tova Synagogue (Sinagoga Eua Tova)
C-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, MPiata Romana. In a busy

side street off Bulevardul Magheru is Bucharests second
temple. Q Services take place when Sabbath commences
on Friday evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00.
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CALEA VICTORIEI
bucharest in two days
22
Victor Hugo. There is even a statue of Prince Charming (Fat

Frumos). Oh, and theres a memorial to Michael Jackson.
Yes, really.
Village Museum (Muzeul Naional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 021 317 91 10, fax (+4) 021 317 90 68, contact@
muzeul-satului.ro, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding.
Founded by Royal Decree in 1936, and covering some 15
hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul Satului is
one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There
are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills,
watermills and churches from all of Romanias historic regions:
Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit
has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought
from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four
languages (if the stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19thcentury, but there are some, such as those from Berbeti, in
the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved
entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight
of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden
Maramure church, complete with exquisite but faded icons.
You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in
to the ground and topped with thatched roofs, or the brightly
painted dwellings of the Danube Delta. The museum has a
great souvenir shop, and a stall selling traditional Romanian
sweets and cakes. Children love the museum, and it makes for
a perfect family outing. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10
lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audioguides
available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish,
Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance). Note that while the
museum is open on Mondays, the monuments are not.
Davin Ellicson davinellicson.com
Lesser Visited Bucharest: Titan-Balta Alba
That an old Romanian textbook of ours contains a passage

about the Titan-Balta Alba area of Bucharest, complete with
the immortal words Titan-Balta Alba is a new district full of
beautiful, tall, comfortable blocks has become something
of a standing joke in the Bucharest IYP office. And lets be
honest: Titan is not the most attractive area of the Romanian
capital, and it is unlikely to feature in any mainstream guide to
Bucharest anytime soon. In Your Pocket of course is anything
but a mainstream guide, and as we passed through Titan on
our way to a supermarket a couple of weeks ago, we couldnt
help think that the area does rather have at least a couple of
points of interest that the jaded sightseer or resident might
actually fancy taking a closer look at.
For a start, there is the history of the area itself to consider.
Titan-Balta Alba was the largest urban development ever
built in Romania, dwarfing even the later Centru Civic and
the Casa Poporului. Built mainly between 1960 and 1970,
around a lake and huge park, Titan was designed to house
over 450,000 people in modest, bland yet modern apartments.
For many of those people who moved here, these new homes
provided their first experience of running water, inside toilets
and central heating. That by the 1980s the central heating was
rarely turned on should not reflect too poorly on the vision of
those who wanted to create modern homes for hundreds of

thousands of people in a short space of time.
Although the area may not appear to be anything more
than block after endless monolithic block, there is if you look
hard enough a couple of streets of terraced housing in
Titan, on Stradas Fildesului and Doicesti, just off Strada Campia
Libertatii, built in the early 1950s (vaguely) on the English model
(inside, however, the houses were divided into small flats, some
with collective kitchens). Designed by Tiberiu Niga who would
later design the huge blocks in front of the Sala Palatului they
were constructed at a time when the block had not become
sacred, and the regime was experimenting with a number of
different kinds of low-cost housing.
The monumental Titan metro station (left) is the most
spectacular on all the Bucharest system. Cavernous, and
gargantuan in scale its astonishing main hall is as close as
Bucharest comes to recreating the jaw-dropping experience
of the showcase stations on the Moscow metro. There are
other places on the system which hint at grandeur (the marble
at Piata Unirii and Izvor, the galleries above Universitate) but
none have the same amount of visual impact as Titan.
Titan/A.I. Cuza Park, which surrounds Lake Titan, is
amongst the nicest in Bucharest. Indeed, it was the first park in
the city after 1989 to be properly renovated and re-landscaped:
most work was done in 2008-2009. Whole terraces were built,
lawns laid and there are playgrounds at every turn. There are
even peacocks.
Perhaps the most remarkable sight in Titan however is the
Maramures-style church that stands on the edge of Titan
Park, on Strada Liviu Rebreanu. The church (officially named
the Biserica Pogorarea Sfantului Duh) was built from 1994-6
on the initiative of local residents, priests and architects as a
reaction to the utilitarian nature of the Titan district. It was a
bold statement of intent which made it clear that not just had
the era of state atheism come to an end, but that the era of
concrete had come to an end. too The church is now a focal
point of the local community and one of the best attended in the
city. On major religious holidays you cant get within 500 metres
of the place. Other churches like it were originally intended to be
built around the city, but never were. You can, however, see two
original Maramures churches in Bucharest, one at the Peasant
Museum, and one at the Village Museum (see above).
Calea Victoriei c. 1925

No street in Bucharest has a history to match that of Calea
Victoriei, the citys most famous thoroughfare which runs
- much as it has for more than three centuries - from Piata
Victoriei in the north of the city all the way down to Piata
Natiunilor Unite and the Dambovita river.
Lined with fine houses, palaces, churches, hotels,
upmarket shops and museums, it remains perhaps the most
prestigious address in the city.
Calea Victoriei was first opened to traffic - or what
passed for traffic in those days - in 1692, originally part of
the route from the Old Court (Curtea Veche) to Mogosoaia,
where Constantin Brancoveanu, that great ruler of these
parts who did so much to modernise the country during
his long and distinguished reign - had his main palace. The
street has had many names over the years, including Ulita
Sarindar, Drumul Brasovului and Drumul Mogosoaia - its
name until 1878 when it was christened Calea Victoriei in
honour of victories recently won by Romanian armies fighting
to preserve the countrys newly won independence from the
Ottoman Empire.
The street - originally covered with logs, as was the norm
in those days - was fully paved by 1825, one of the first in
the city (Strada Franceza, in Old Town/Lipscani, closer to the
Old Court, was in fact the first). There followed a blossoming
of construction as the street became a magnet for wealthy
merchants who built homes along its length, keen to be
spared the ignominies of the mud streets which persisted
elsewhere. Though much has changed since, and not a few
majestic buildings have fallen victim to earthquake, war,
socialist planning or modernisation, many of the buildings
which went up along Calea Victoriei in the 19th century
remain, and to walk the streets length (around three
kilometres) is to at once enjoy an architectural treat and
history lesson.
Orientation: modern Calea Victoriei can be split

more or less neatly into two sections: the residential
northern part (extending as far south as Calea Grivitei),
noted mainly for its fine houses and palaces and the
commercial southern part, packed with hotels, shops,
banks, restaurants and cafes. To start a walk of the
full length of the street at the northern end (which
we recommend, as you can then end up by relaxing in
one of the cafes of Old Town), simply take the metro to
Piata Victoriei.
Piata Victoriei to Calea Grivitei

For all its history, Calea Victoriei does not start well. Piata
Victoriei is by and large an awful place, all cars and traffic,
smoke and dust. The modernist building on the far side is the
Palatul din Piata Victoriei, home today of the Romanian
government (though when it was built in the 1930s it was
the Foreign Ministry). On the other side of the square is the
Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History, built in 1906
and one of the best museums in the country. Elsewhere,
Piata Victoriei is a socialist nightmare, with its more recently
built office blocks barely more attractive than those built
before 1989.
Heading off from here along Calea Victoriei itself, you need
to walk for 200 metres or so alongside tall, communist-era
blocks on either side until you get to the first of many neglected
architectural gems, the huge Banloc-Goodrich building
at No. 218. Designed by Octav Doicescu in 1938 it was
completed only in 1946, and is elegantly functional, the bulk
of the building being set back from the street, creating a small
square flanked by the buildings twin wings. Banloc-Goodrich
was the first tyre-manufacturer in Romania, nationalised
in 1948. The building, now owned by the state, has been
vacant for some time. It is also known as the Red Building,
23
24
CALEA VICTORIEI
Calea Victoriei in 1937

apparently because in its early years the exterior was painted
red. Opposite, on the corner of Strada Sevastopol, is another
neglected gem, a vaguely Secessionist house whose original
wrought-iron balconies remain intact. Look out too for the
sculptures over the windows.
Walking past two lovely little eateries: Faju and El
Bistro, the brand new Victoria Center faces another rather
lovely building with Secessionist features, on the corner with
Strada Frumoasa. The building would be the highlight of many
streets in Romania, but not Calea Victoriei. For next door is
the Palatul Cantacuzino at No. 141, usually referred to
(mistakenly) as the Casa Enescu. The building does house
the Romanian Museum of Music (which carries the name of
George Enescu, the countrys finest composer) but - contrary
to popular belief, Enescu never actually lived here. There is a
connection, however. The vaguely baroque, Louis XVI-style
building dates from 1898, when it was built for the wealthy
politician Gheorghe Cantacuzino. On his death in 1913 the
palace became the property of Cantacuzinos eldest son
Mihai, who in turn left it to his wife, Maruca, when he died in
1929. Maruca subsequently married Enescu - in 1939 - but
they chose to live in a smaller house at the rear of the palace.
The building became the George Enescu Museum of Music
in 1956, a year after the composers death.
In a well-kept courtyard opposite is the Church of St.
Vasile the Great, rebuilt in 1848 after the 18th century
original was destroyed in an earthquake. Its lovely gate is
bettered by the churchs neoclassical portal, above which
an eye keeps watch for sinners. Its worth popping inside to
take a look at the murals painted by Anton Serafim in the
1880s. The church is better lit than many in the city.
Next door is the Casa Dissescu, built for Constantin
Dissescu - a lawyer and for a short time the Minister of
Justice - in 1910. It is today home to the Romanian Institute
of the History of Art. It has a rather nice raised loggia,
but the street has over the years encroached to be almost
directly underneath.
Crossing Strada Gheorghe Manu and ignoring the
building site on the right hand side of the road, you will
come across two gorgeous houses next to each other: the
Neo-Classical yet very French Casa Nenciu, was built in
the 1830s for a Wallachian princess, the exotically named
Cleopatra Trubetkoi. In 1847 Franz Liszt stayed here while
on an extended visit to the Bucharest. Next door at No. 192,
and set back slightly from the street, is the Casa Manu,
completed in 1843 for the modernising administrator Alecu
Florescu, but named for the man who bought it in 1848: the
legendary general Gheorghe Manu.
The Casa Lens-Vernescu at No. 133 (to give the
mansion its full name) is one of the finest on Calea
CALEA VICTORIEI
Victoriei, built around 1820 in an eclectic
style incorporating many of the architectural
trends of the time. For years it was regarded
as the most beautiful house in the city, and
belonged initially to Filip Lens, a lawyer and
politician. On his death in 1852 the house
became a residence for military officers, the
Ministry of War moving in shortly afterwards.
Another politician, Gheorghe Vernescu,
bought it from the state in 1886, and had
it extensivley remodelled over a two-year
period from 1887-9. It was at this time that
the majority of the stunning interior frescoes
were added. Until recently the building
housed a casino and a restaurant, but has
alas stood empty for a while now.
The Casa Vernescu is almost eclipsed by the
equally grand house opposite, the Palatul
Ghica-Gradisteanu. Built first in the 1850s
before being completely remodelled in 1898, it currently
hosts the Romanian-Chinese Cultural Centre.
Those visitors to (and residents of) Bucharest who
speed along in Calea Victoriei in cars - pausing only to watch
the traffic lights turning green - often fail to realise that the
street is blessed with a number of small parks. The Nicolae
Iorga Park is just one of these. A gorgeous little place, the
park is home to two large busts: one of Nicolae Iorga (a
19th century politician and polymath), and one of Nichita
Stanescu, Romanias finest 20th century poet.
The large, handsome church overlooking the park is the
St. Nicolae Tabacu church, first built in 184. Opposite (and
built at a right angle to the street) is the imposing Library of
the Romanian Academy, a Duiliu Marcu design (Marcu was
also the architect behind the Palatul din Piata Victoriei)
constructed from 1936-7. More than four million books are
kept inside.
The house on the south-western corner of the Calea
Victoriei/Bulvardul Dacia intersection (opposite the new-ish
Golden Tulip hotel), hidden behind advertising hoardings
and trees is the once fabulous Casa Monteoru. One of the
oldest on Calea Victoriei it dates from around 1810, although
it was almost entirely reconstructed in the 1880s (to designs
by Ion Mincu - an architect whose name you come across a
lot in Bucharest). The building is distinguished by its uneven
character: the ground floor is much smaller than the upper
floor, the gorgeous balcony of which is supported by two
broad, Corinthian columns. Eclectic both inside and out the
building is today one of a number in the city owned by the
Romanian Writers Union.
Next door is a fine palace, known as the Palat Romanit
which hosts the Museum of Art Collections. The central
corp was built in 1834, then rebuilt and extended in 1883,
when the wings were added. For much of the 19th century
the building was home to the Ministry of Finance, becoming
an art museum in 1948, when the wealthiest families in
Romania were made an offer they couldnt refuse by the
communist government, and forced to donate much (in
many cases all) of their extensive art collections to the
state.
Speaking of the state, the elegant, modernist if rather
neglected (spotting a theme?) linear building opposite, at No.
152, is another Duiliu Marcu design, built from 1936-40 and
which was from 1948-1989 home of the State Planning
Committee (in other words, the building where bureaucrats
tried to ensure that every collective farm in Romania had
enough paper clips). Looking every inch a 1930s Italian
railway station, the clock on the sublime tower is a gem. It
is to be hoped that the building will soon be restored to past
glories: it is one of the most overlooked and ignored in the
city. This is a real shame.
Commercial Calea Victoriei

It is at the crossroads with Calea Grivitei that you notice a
real change in the mood of Calea Victoriei. The road and
pavements narrow, and houses, palaces and small parks
give way to blocks - many of which are nevertheless elegant
if run down - most of which are now used as offices, with
shops on the ground floor.
But there are exceptions, such as the Stirbey Palace at
No. 107, which dates from 1835, but which is rather hemmed
in by the 1960s apartment blocks which surround it, and its
facade is spoilt by the impromptu car park directly in front.
For decades a museum of arts and crafts, the building is
currently in limbo.
Past the courtyard that leads to the legendary jazz club
Green Hours, next to which is a later 19th century low
rise house that looks very out of place in such high-rise
company is the extravagant, deliberately over-engineered
neo-Romanian AGIR building at No. 118. Designed by Petre
Antonescu and completed in 1925 its facade apparently pays
tribute to the engineering genius of Roman aqueducts. The
AGIR was the pre-war association of Romanian engineers,
and the building was very much seen as a look what we can
do calling card.
The next building of real interest will for most people
be the little white church set back from the street in a
small square on the corner of Str. George Enescu. Known
colloquially as the Biserica Alba (White Church), it is offically
the Biserica Sf. Nicolae and is one of the oldest in Bucharest,
being founded in 1700. The current structure dates from
1827 however (the original was destroyed in an earthquake),
with the interior frescoes for which it is famed having been
restored a number of times, most recently in 1988. After the
last major earthquake in Bucharest (in 1977) the foundations
of the church were consolidated, and it is now considered
one of the safest in the city.
The glass and steel opposite belong to the Radisson
Blu hotel, opened in 2008 after a refit of several years had
turned the tired, old and often infamous Hotel Bucuresti
into the five-star wonder the rich and famous throng to today.
The hotels interior courtyard is home - in the right weather
- to one of the few outdoor swimming pools in the city. (The
original Hotel Bucuresti was built from 1982-4).
In what is very much Bucharests Hotel Row, directly
across the road from the Radisson is the Athenee Palace
Hilton, one of few hotels in the world whose history is so
intriguing that books have been written about it (Rosie
Waldecks Athenee Palace details the intricate diplomatic
discussions - official or otherwise - which took place here
in the 1930s and 1940s). The hotel opened in 1912 (it was
designed by a Frenchman, Teophile Bradeau) and was built
on the site of an old inn, the Hanul Gherasi. The Calea
Victoriei wing was added in the 1960s, and the hotel was
entirely renovated again in 1997 when it became a Hilton
property. Most recently the ground floor brasserie was
remodelled and reopened as the Cafe Athenee. Despite
all the changes, the Athenee Palaces historic English Bar
remains wonderfully old fashioned and has barely changed
in decades.
The Athenee Palace vies for attention on Piata
Revolutiei with the Atheneum, the Former Royal Palace,
the University Library, the statue of Carol I, the Former
Central Committee Building, the Revolution Monument
and the Cretulescu Church. (In fact, there are two squares
here: the area as far as the Carol I statue is Piata George
Enescu, with Piata Revolutiei only kicking in beyond
that. Most people refer to the whole open space as Piata
Revolutiei, however). Most of those buildings are covered
elsewhere in this guide (see Buildings With a History, page
66), but there are a couple we should point out for you.
Shopping on Calea Victoriei

Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea
Victoriei 45, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Cellini C-5, Calea Victoriei 102-108, tel. (+4) 031
432 90 41, www.cellini.ro.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also at B-dul Nicolae
Balcescu 16, tel (+4) 021 312 22 02, Plaza Romania and
many other locations.
Emporio Armani C-5, Calea Victoriei 60-64, tel.
(+4) 021 310 81 31/(+4) 0721 23 30 47, www.
emporioarmani.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. P
Ermenegildo Zegna B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81,
tel. (+4) 021 316 89 75, www.zegna.com. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
Frey Wille C-5, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 031
620 13 54, www.frey-wille.com. Q Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also at Soseaua
Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City), tel (+4)
031 432 69 44. L
Gerard Darel B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4)
0316 20 53 93, www.gerarddarel.com. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Gucci C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 0734 45 05
50, www.gucci.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. P
Helvetansa B-4, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 031
226 22 02, www.helvetansa.ro. Swiss-made watches
that you buy once in a lifetime. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at (B-4) Calea Victoriei
88, tel. (+4) 021 310 38 00.
Hugo Boss B-4, Calea Victoriei 145, tel. (+4) 021
311 88 97, www.hugoboss.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Closed Sun.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei
45, tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35, www.libhumanitas.
ro. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Max Mara C-5, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
316 89 77, www.maxmara.com. Q Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.
Mengotti C-5, Calea Victoriei 48-50, tel. (+4) 021
305 59 57, www.mengotti.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Micri Gold C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel. (+4) 021 312
00 57, www.micrigold.ro.QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4)
021 313 14 65, romartizana@digicom.ro, www.
romartizana.com.ro. Good place to buy some traditional
souvenirs at slightly exorbitant prices. QOpen 10:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at P-ta Montreal 10 (World Trade Plaza) tel. (+4) 021 319 12 16.
Sepala by Mihaela Glavan C-5, Str. Benjamin
Franklin 9, tel. (+4) 0722 52 52 72, (+4) 0730 09
73 23, contact@sepala.ro, www.sepala.ro. Shoes are
high quality, hand made, unique, with hand-painted and
embroidered satin uppers designed to fit the personality of the customer by Romanias leading shoe designer,
Mihaela Glavan. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
25
26
CALEA VICTORIEI
CALEA VICTORIEI
Carol I: The First King of Romania
Bucharests first skyscraper: The Telephone Palace

First off, the University Library. It was designed by the
French architect Paul Gottereau and built from 1891-95.
Badly damaged during the revolution of 1989, it was faithfully
restored from 1993-96 and is now one of the citys finest
buildings.
Take a look also at the building just behind it: a modern
green office block inside the ruins of an old house first built
in 1890. What happened here is simple: the original building
was all but destroyed during the 1989 revolution (this square
saw most of the action: it was from the balcony of the Former
Central Committee Building that Nicolae Ceausescu gave
his last public speech, before fleeing the next day from the
roof in a helicopter). It was taken over by the Architects Union
who then created the rather splendid mix of old and new we
admire today. There is a cafe on the ground floor.
The Revolution Monument is a less impressive affair,
mocked by locals who call it an olive on a stick. It seems a
most unworthy memorial for those who died here in 1989.
Shops of the classy and expensive kind occupy the
ground floor of the buildings that line Calea Victoriei as it
closes in again, at least as far as the two hotels - historic
both for differing reasons - that greet you at the crossroads
with Ion Campaneanu. Before moving on to the hotels, take
a look to your left at the Union Building on the corner of
Str. Academiei and Str. Ion Campaneanu: it is an art deco
masterpiece built in 1928-9 whose central facade looks
much like a rocket about to blast off. It was renovated in
1999.
A more recent renovation is the Grand Continental
Hotel, reopened in 2009 after being almost totally rebuilt.
Opposite is the Novotel, whose faux Neo-Classical entrance
is an exact replica of that of Bucharests original National
Theatre, which stood here from 1852 until it was destroyed
in an allied bombing raid in August 1944 (just days before
Romania changed sides in World War II).
Next to the Novotel is one of Calea Victorieis most
instantly recognisable landmarks, the art deco Palatul
Telefoanelor (Telephone Palace). Built over three years
from 1929-32 to serve as the headquarters of Romanias
Few visitors to Bucharest will leave without seeing the

enormous horseback statue of Carol I - the first king
of modern Romania - which appeared in front of the
University Library in (B/C-5) Piata Revolutiei at the end
of 2010. Looking directly at the former Royal Palace (now
the National Art Museum), the statue is one of the largest in the city and unquestionably the most prominently
positioned. But who was this Carol chap?
Born Karl Eitel Friedrich Zephyrinus Ludwig of
Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen in Sigmaringen in southern
Germany in 1839, Karl was an officer in the Prussian army
until being invited by Romanian politician Ion Brtianu in
1866 to become the nascent countrys king. Romanias
own royal, the authoritarian Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza,
had been exiled after falling out with the countrys politicians and most powerful families earlier in 1866. Scouring Europe for a suitable (non-Romanian) replacement,
Brtianu sought the advice of Napoleon III, a relative
by marriage of the Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen family. It
was - allegedly - on Napoleon IIIs recommendation that
the young Karl was approached. Though reluctant, Karl
was encouraged by his family to accept the offer, and
Bratianu returned to Romania to make preparations.
Karls trip to Romania the next month was as bizarre
as his somewhat random selection as the countrys king.
Due to ongoing conflict between Prussia and the Austrian
Empire, Karl travelled incognito by railroad from Dsseldorf to Budapest, under the name of Karl Hettingen.
From Budapest he travelled by carriage, as there was
no railroad to Romania. As he walked across the border
onto Romanian soil, he was met by Brtianu, who bowed
before him and asked Karl to join him in a carriage.
On 10 May 1866, Karl entered Bucharest. The news
of his arrival had been transmitted through telegraph and
he was welcomed by a huge crowd eager to see the new
ruler. In Bneasa he was given the key to the city. That
day, rain fell, ending a long period of drought a favourable sign. As he was crowned, Karl swore to guard the
laws of Romania, to maintain its rights and the integrity
of its territory. Not yet able to speak Romanian, he took
the oath in French, but adopted the Romanian version of
his name, Carol.
In his 48 years on the throne, Carol can be considered
to have done rather well. He greatly assisted the cause of
Romanian independence from the Ottoman Empire - which
came in 1878 - raised the countrys prestige (not least
at the 1906 Grand Exhibition, held in the Bucharest park
which now carries his name), and - in the main - allowed
politicians to run the economy without interference. He
never forgot he was German, however, and his pet project,
the Peles Castle, Sinaia, was quite deliberately built in
German style, as a reminder of the kings origin. Carols
German roots also caused much tension at the outbreak
of World War I: his subjects were by and large sympathetic
to the French. As a result, Romania kept out of the war
until Carol died, in 1916.
national telephone company (which it remained until the

early 1990s) it was the first building in the country to be
constructed in the manner of an American skyscraper:
concrete reinforced by a steel frame. Just over 53 metres
high, until the Inter Continental was built in the early 1970s
it was the tallest building in Bucharest.
There are three other hotels on this part of the street:
the Majestic, the Capitol and the Casa Capsa - the latter
being one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1886. The
cafe on the ground floor was for decades - especially in the
1920s and 1930s - the unofficial home of Romanias best
writers, who would wile away their days here. The name
refers to the founder of the hotel, Grigore Capsa, who was
said to be able to spot a decent writer a mile away: writers
(a superstitious bunch at the best of times) came to his cafe
to seek his approval.
While the Pasajul Villacrosse further along the street
is the most famous of Bucharests 19th century arcades, it
is certainly not the only one. Opposite the Telephone Palace
is the Pasajul Victoriei, which, while not as architecturally
pleasing as Villacrosse, has perhaps an even richer history:
built in the 1830s it was home for a long time to the citys
biggest (and most luxurious) brothel. King Carol II was
allegedly a regular client. The brothel was closed in 1947,
but the goings-on inside (and in the pasaj in general) are
immortalised in Ion Matei Caragiales Craii de Curtea Veche,
a novel published in 1929 for which life the pasaj provided
much inspiration.
An even narrower pasaj, the Pasajul Comedie, can be
found on the left hand side of the Odeon Theatre (opened
in 1911). A statue of the great Turkish leader Kemal Ataturk
stands in front of the theatre.
The Cercul Militar was completed in 1912, on the site
of a former monastery, the Sarindar. A recently renovated
fountain in front of the building preserves the Sarindar name.
Opposite is one of the more striking blocks built during the
early communist period: the Romarta Block (completed
in 1960), complete with a covered walkway on three sides.
When In Your Pocket first came to Romania in 1999, our
office was on the 5th floor.
Across the busy road junction is the Hotel Bulevard, built
in the 1860s and the first in the city to have running water
in all of its rooms. It closed in 2005 ahead of a five-star refit
which looks to finally now be nearing completion.
On the opposite corner, find the little courtyard (next to
the take-away section of Pizza Hut) which leads through
to one of Bucharests many hidden churches (Romanias
communist authorities had a habit of building tall apartment
blocks around churches to hide them from public view). Dating
from 1683 the churchs name is a mouthful: the Biserica
Intrarea Maicii Domnului n Biseric (the Church of the
Entrance of the Mother of God into Church). The recently
restored frescoes are worth popping inside to see. The block
above Pizza Hut is known as the Delta Dunarii (Danube
Delta) block. Until the early 1990s a famous fish restaurant
of the same name occupied the ground floor.
From here Calea Victoriei heads gently downhill towards
the river. You will see the rather yellowy-orange facade of
the Bucharest Police Headquarters, next to which is the
Magazinul Victoria, built in 1928, and originally known as
the Galeries Lafayette. It was the first department store to
open in Romania. Lurking across the road is the Bancorex
building (now called the Bucharest Financial Plaza): the first
modern office block to be built after 1990. Bancorex - a bank
set up to absorb and disperse foreign loans and investment in
the early 1990s went bust in 1999, and the banks name has
since become a byword for post-communist corruption.
Opposite on the corner of Strada Lipscani is the 19th
century Palatul Dacia (built for the long defunct Dacia
insurance company). Next to that is the Zlatari Church,
CEC, with the Bancorex building behind it

built in the 1850s and most notable for the interior frescoes,
painted by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Just past the church is the
National History Museum (see page 69) while the Old
Town/Lipscani (see page 81) area lurks behind the History
Museum.
Opposite is the amazing CEC building (see Buildings
With a History, page 66) one of the citys finest, with the
elegant and recently renovated Casa Prager two buildings
along. First constructed in 1770 for the Vacarescu family it
carries the name of Sigmund Prager, who bought it in 1887.
A wealthy merchant he opened a shop selling furs on the
ground floor. It is of all things today the headquarters of the
Romanian national lottery.
At the very bottom of Calea Victoriei, facing the river,
are the Gloriette Buildings, neither of which is in the best
of shape. Designed by local architect Petru Antonescu and
completed in 1926, they are worth noting for the sinister
reason that their design (particularly the belvedere at the top)
was used a blueprint for the apartment buildings which went
up in the Civic Centre along Bulevardul Unirii in the 1980s
(and which, it should be said, have weathered no better).
On the other side of the river next to the Palatul
Justitiei (again, see Buildings With a History), the high
rise Gioconda Block was completed in 1950 and was
considered a wonder of the new utopian age Romania was
about to enter. Where did it all go wrong?
The House at C.A. Rosetti 8

C. A. Rosetti 8 (Theodor Aman Museum) C-5,
Str. C. A. Rosetti 8, www.museum.ici.ro/mbucur/
romanian/theodoraman.htm. One of the most remarkable houses in Bucharest is the little place at Strada C.A.
Rosetti 8 (C. A. Rosetti is the street which links Piata
Revolutiei with Bulevardul Magheru). Built in 1869 by
the painter Theodor Aman as a home with studio, the
house became a museum dedicated to Aman in 1908,
remaining open until 2010, when it was closed for renovation. It remains, alas, closed. That should not stop you
from admiring the exterior, however, which is stunning.
Designed by Aman himself (he also did the frescoes on
the ceilings inside) it incorporates bas-reliefs and statues,
arches and porticos in a linear yet never rudimentary
fashion. That it has been closed for so long is real shame,
as having visited some years ago now, we can confirm
that the interior is even more stunning.
27
28
Where to stay
Cream of the Crop
Athenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21, reservations.

bucharest@hilton.com, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Much
spoken of in the past tense (this place has a seriously long and
legendary history; a home of intrigues and adventure for more
than a century) it is less often referred to in the present. This is
a shame, as to dwell on the past ignores the fact that this is a
great, modern hotel. Luxuriously furnished, the immense rooms
offer the latest in gadgetry and perhaps the fluffiest bathrobes
in Romania. Ask for a room with a view over Piata Revolutiei for
best effect. Fine dining on site courtesy of one excellent restaurant and the brilliant Cafe Athenee. Q 272 rooms. Prices from
975-5475 lei. Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes and
VAT (9%). POTHR6UFLGKDCW
Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77,
fax (+4) 021 336 37 36, info@carolparchotel.ro, www.
carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious, certainly, but offering something
a bit different to the bigger players, the Carol Park is coquette
and secluded: you have to know about this place, as you do
not find it by chance. A gorgeous place where the finest things
are offered to all who pass through its doors, expect only fine,
classic furnishings and very personal service. International
stars who value discretion above all else tend to stay here
when visiting Bucharest. Q 17 rooms. Prices from 120515. Prices include breakfast. VAT and taxes not included.
PHRLGKW
Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1,
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, fax (+4) 021 318 13 02, reservations@crowneplaza.ro, www.crowneplaza.com/
bucharest. Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza
Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would
expect of the brand, from first class accommodation to world
class facilities. With a renowned reputation for individual and
friendly service, the hotel can also offer the greenest setting
in the capital, surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained
grounds. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding
drinking and dining options. Q 164 rooms. Prices from 6902100 lei . Extra bed 120 lei. Prices include Buffet Breakfast.
VAT not included. PTHRUFGKDCW
Epoque B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312
32 32, fax (+4) 021 300 57 23, info@epoque.ro, www.

hotelepoque.ro. Now heres a hotel we have no problem in
recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque
has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the
edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet
at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms
are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras
(not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you
get, the prices are a steal. Q 44 rooms. Prices from 160410. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices include
local taxes. Breakfast and VAT not included. PTHRUi
FLGKDCW
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, fax (+4) 0372
01 03 01, info@grandhotelcontinental.ro, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Making the very best of a wonderful
building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays
Grand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years
of loving renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every
turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing,
for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for
example are state of the art. For the great location and for a
change from the big chains, its well worth trying out. Q 59
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Disabled facilities
R Internet (Standard)
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
M Nearest metro station J Old Town location

K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
W WiFi Internet
rooms. Prices from 280-800. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes

included. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel B-3,

Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021
201 50 00, fax (+4) 021 201 18 88, sales@hojoplaza.ro,
www.hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre
of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by
the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as
it does with champagne (for those who enjoy such things in the
morning), and the dining opportunities in general are excellent:
there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site.
To really get the best out of this place though, ask for a room
on one of the upper floors, for the views over the city. Q 285
rooms. Prices from 135-385. Prices do not include breakfast,
VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDW
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, fax (+4) 021

312 04 86, reservations@interconti.ro, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest
(complete with a small swimming pool and - during the summer,
sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental was the first
major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of
the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a
first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom
have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here all boast
big balconies with great views of the city, there is first class
dining in the building, and the management is commendably
hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the
best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails,
meeting rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive
atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35
per day. Its open 06:30-22:30. Q 257 rooms. Prices from
115-295. Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes (9%).
POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea
13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, fax (+4)

021 403 00 01, jwbucharest@marriott.com, JWMarriottBucharest.com. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW
Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first
glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of
Bucharests big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part
of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the
rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome
contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining options, and
home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think).Q
401 rooms. Prices from 445-5000 lei. Extra bed on request
in the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
30
Where to stay
Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei
37B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, fax (+4)
021 308 85 01, H5558@accor.com, www.novotel.com.
Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea
Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old
neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site
until the British bombed it to next week during the Second
World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive.
Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are
other added benefits of staying here. Q 258 rooms. Prices
from 65 -200. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices
do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes. POTHR6Ui
FLGKDCW
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, fax (+4) 021 316
25 50, pullman@pullman.ro, www.pullmanhotels.com.
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this
high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast
perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate
showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-pereuro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucharest. A
good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and though there
is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage available. Q 203 rooms. Prices from 205-800. Extra
bed 20. Prices do not include VAT, local taxes and breakfast.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. A

gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more classical
buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in playing the
role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the
glass bar strikes you as daring and modern, and the rooms
Where to stay
themselves are equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms
offer both tubs and showers, and there is both an indoor and
outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and
Seafood. Q 718 rooms. Prices from 500-8500 lei. Prices
include breakfast (except single, double and extra bed rates).
PJHRUFLGKDCW
Over 150
Cismigiu C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, fax (+4) 031 403 05 10, www.
hotelcismigiu.ro. One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest
*there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by
Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for almost
two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart of the
city, millions have been spent making the hotel look better
than at any time in its century-old history. The contemporary
rooms - all of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even
boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout,
a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny. Q 60 rooms. Prices from 210-270.
Extra bed 30. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes.
PTHRUFLGKW
Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, fax (+4) 021 317
41 89, www.hotelduke.ro. Now this place is central. A
proverbial stones throw from Piata Romana, this modern hotel
is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest
buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have
tubs and showers, and theres free and fast Wifi throughout.
Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses. Q 37
rooms. Prices from 75-145. Extra bed 20. Prices include
VAT and breakfast. PRGKW
K+K Elisabeta C-5, Str. Slanic 26, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.

(+4) 021 549 20 00, fax (+4) 021 319 87 82, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. The Hotel Parc has been around a while,
but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A
high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau
Park - hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not
big - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast
included in the price. Q 267 rooms. Prices from 139-210.
Prices include breakfast. PHRGKW
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4) 021

300 05 45, fax (+4) 021 317 91 54, nhbucharest@nhhotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the most
attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering
a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount
of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack
rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very
good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and
babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome.
Q 76 rooms (150). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included.
PTHRUFLGKW
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.
021 302 92 80, www.kkhotels.com. We loved this place for

a number of reasons, not least the fact that the huge breakfast
buffet stays open until 11:00, meaning late starters can still
get breakfast. The hotel is located in a huge, renovated period
house just behind Piata Universitatii. The discretion of the location
betrays the fact that this is the kind of place you come to if you
like old fashioned luxury, good service, and possess exceptional
taste. Q 67 rooms. Prices from 100-160. Prices include VAT,
local taxes and breakfast. PTHRFGKDW
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99

90, fax (+4) 021 411 99 91, www.parliament-hotel.ro.
So named because it is located behind Romanias parliament
building, Casa Poporului, which you can see from almost all of
the rooms. This hotel has been around for a decade now and
offers a four/five star experience: many of the rooms have
jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such
as the huge, high double beds, which are among the best
weve come across in Bucharest. Q 56 rooms. Prices from
100-170. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast.
PHRUGKW
Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, fax (+4)
021 233 50 01, www.ramadanorth.ro. Well named, for it
is indeed in the north of the city. It has great rooms - amongst
the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are
tremendous: all have bathtubs. The hotel boasts a good spa
centre (with excellent Turkish bath), big fitness room with loads
of equipment and has a good lobby bar. The on-site dining is
decent too. Q 232 rooms. Prices from 75-99. Extra bed 10.
Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6Ui
FLGKDCW
Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.

ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the
Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best hotels. It offers
very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and
- a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In
a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the
Majestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash. Q 111
rooms. Prices from 240-1200. Prices include all taxes, VAT
and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKDCW
31
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Where to stay
Where to stay
while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably
fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. Q 43 rooms.
Prices from 109-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT, all
taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 315 56 36, www.thhotels.ro. Central by name, central

by nature. Slap, bang on Bucharests version of Broadway (its all
relative), amongst cinemas and theatres, the Central was totally
renovated last year and is now one of the best (and best value)
stays in the city. We like the staff who are always friendly, and
who go out of their way to make sure you do not get ripped off by
dodgy taxi drivers: such attention to detail is to be applauded. Q
62 rooms. Prices from 140-180. Extra bed 20. Prices include
all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
El Greco C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 16, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 81 31/(+4) 021 315 81 41,
fax (+4) 021 315 88 98, office@hotelelgreco.ro, www.
hotelelgreco.ro. Located in the heart of what was, pre-World
War II, the most stylish residential area in the city. This is one
such villa dating from that period, though it has of course
been renovated and refurbished to include a rack of modern
luxuries. Fortunately, however, the ambience of the ancien
regime has been preserved, making this one of the best villa
conversions in the city. Q 20 rooms. Prices from 95-140.
Prices for suites include all taxes, VAT and breakfast for one
person. PTHRULGKW
Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4)

021 549 30 00, fax (+4) 021 319 87 82, reservations@
ramadaplazabucharest.ro, www.ramadaplazabucharest.
ro. Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across
the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at
the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place
is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are
amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a
good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value for the
money. Q 298 rooms. Prices from 159-270. Prices include
breakfast. PHRUFGKW
Scala Bucuresti C-5, Str. C. A. Rosetti 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 104 11 11/(+4) 031 104 11 13, fax
(+4) 031 814 61 48, www.hotelscalabucuresti.ro. As
central as they come, this gorgeous conversion of a glorious
ancien regime Bucharest house is as fine a place to stay as
now exists in the Romanian capital. You will love the grand,
classically furnished rooms, which come complete with high
ceilings and restored, original wooden flooring. The loft suite,
complete with skylights, is a special treat if you can splash
the extra cash. Q 11 rooms. Prices from 159-259. Extra
bed upon request. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast.
PTHRLGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.
ro. You want central? Well this place is central. In a building on
a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great
place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed
the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern,
tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and
good bathrooms. Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi
throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres an on
site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside. Q 21
rooms. Prices from 99-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include all
taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6ULGKW
100-150
Angelo Airporthotel Bucharest Calea Bucurestilor
283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, info@angelo-bucharest.

com, www.angelo-bucharest.com. The hotel closest to
Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna Hotels, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior:
bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas.
There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre
complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is
complimentary. Great buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms. Prices
from 100-170. Prices include VAT, local taxes and breakfast.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04
Europa Royale Bucharest C-6, Str. Franceza 60,

MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, fax (+4) 0372
37 65 00, bucharest@europaroyale.com, www.europaroyale.com. Who said Old Town refits have to be kitsch?
This one certainly isnt. The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place
that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings.
Literally a stones throw from where Bucharest began, at the
Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you
ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found
the staff exemplary. A genuinely welcome addition to Bucharest
and the Old Town, and not as pricey as you might think. Q 92
rooms. Prices from 85-200. Extra bed 20. Breakfast, VAT
and local taxes included. PTH6UGKW
Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
55, fax (+4) 021 312 48 58, info@hotelopera.ro, www.

thhotels.ro. You could quite literally throw a stone from the
rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not recommend
it), and as such we think this is a great place for families with
children to stay when visiting the capital. Not cheap, we think
that you get value for money, especially given the size of the
rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they lay on every
morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too. Q 33 rooms.
Prices from 130-170. Prices include all taxes and breakfast.

PTHR6UGKW
Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,
tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, fax (+4)

021 222 90 46, reservations@residence.com.ro, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic hotel in a good area of
the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super
services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that
suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for example,
are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with sauna
and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good
international cuisine. Q 35 rooms. Prices from 90-120.
VAT not included. Prices include breakfast. PTHRLi
GKDW
Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu

33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers
real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy
place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and
apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It
also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and
enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need of
evening relaxation. The rooftop terrace has fine views of what
is the citys best residential area, and the food in the restaurant better than most of Bucharests restaurants: it is really
that good. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 90-120. Prices include
breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRLGKDW
Siqua A-5, Calea Plevnei 59A, tel. (+4) 021 319 51 60,
fax (+4) 021 319 51 61, rezervari@hotelsiqua.ro, www.
hotelsiqua.ro. Simple, good value rooms in a decent location
77, fax (+4) 021 312 04 06, rezervari@hotelarmonia.

ro, www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from
the outside, the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big)
rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders
for the best bathrooms in the city prize we often mention but
never get round to handing out. In good weather the terrace
at the back is a great place to take your breakfast (included
in the price of a room). Q 32 rooms. Prices from 65-75.
Extra bed 10. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast.
PHRLGKW
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031

425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09, fax (+4) 031 425 58 61,
office@hotelberthelot.ro, www.hotelberthelot.ro. Smart,
modern and dead central. What more could you want? For your
money you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and
well furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions,
33
34
Where to stay
Where to stay
just behind Bucharests Opera House. Each room has individual
air conditioning/heating, always a bonus as far as we are
concerned, though note that most of the rooms have showers
only, no baths. Apartments are good value and come with fluffy
bathrobes. Q 40 rooms. Prices from 95-130. Prices include
VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHRUGKW
Starlight Suite B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, tel.

(+4) 021 211 34 13, fax (+4) 021 211 34 14, manager.
buc@starlighthotels.com, www.starlighthotels.com. At
the bustling junction of B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara, and glitzy
Calea Dorobantilor is Starlight, the first hotel of its kind in
Romania. Every room is a suite, complete with separate living
and sleeping areas; some have two bedrooms. All have air
conditioning, the latest in home entertainment systems, and
kitchenettes complete with microwaves. The fitness centre
is free to guests, and a continental breakfast is included in
the price. Excellent value for money. Q 78 rooms. Prices
from 81-115. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
Venezia B-5, Str. Pompiliu Eliade 2, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021
310 68 72, fax (+4) 021 310 68 73, info@hotelvenezia.

ro, www.thhotels.ro. Lovingly renovated with care, taste
and not a little style, the Hotel Venezia completes a handy
little triumvirate of three-star accommodation options in and
around Bulevardul Kogalniceanu (the others being the Opera
and Central hotels, all part of the same chain). Expect some
unique rooms, some with real character provided by the shape
of the building, lovely staff and some thoroughly reasonable
prices. Add in speedy internet connections, air conditioning in all
rooms and a non-smoking environment, and you have a winner.
Q 49 rooms. Prices from 130-170. Extra bed 20. Prices
include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
Charter
Under 100
Amzei B-4, P-ta Amzei 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021
313 94 00, fax (+4) 021 313 94 94, reservations@hotelamzei.ro, www.hotelamzei.ro. Want a room in the heart of
Bucharest? This place is for you. A delicious villa conversion in
the middle of Piata Amzei, close to, well, everything. The rooms
are all enormous, all are individually furnished and have bags
of character, many with sloping ceilings and hidden nooks and
crannies. The bathrooms are a little more modest, but are a
decent size and very well decorated. Q 22 rooms. Prices from
79-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local
taxes. PTHRLGKW
Andy A-4, Str. Witing 2, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021

300 30 50, www.andyhotels.ro. You can see Gara de Nord
from your bedroom window if you stay here: you can decide
for yourself if thats good or bad. Its a decent hotel, especially
compared to those surrounding it, and if you are in two minds
as to which station hotel to stay in, make sure you choose
this one. It even has a sauna and jacuzzi. Q 49 rooms. Prices
PR6GKDW
Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74,
tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, office@hotelmonaco.ro, www.

hotelmonaco.ro. A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still
close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance.
There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests theyve
taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large,
comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi,
flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel
should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for
money. Q 8 rooms. Prices from 50-65. Prices include all
taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTLW
decent price, then its a decent choice. Q 63 rooms. Prices

from 59-140. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast.
PHRFGKDCW
Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, fax
(+4) 021 352 8716, office@hotelcharter.ro, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel
rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square metre.
Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to McDonalds)
this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only
fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre.
Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at prices
as low as these, we doubt anyone will be complaining. Q 21
rooms. Prices from 20-55. Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast. PTRLGW
58, tel. (+4) 0727 59 95 99, office@hoteldan.ro, www.

hoteldan.ro. Smart addition to Bucharests enormously
popular three-star scene. The location is central without being
noisy, and the rooms themselves are all well-sized and wellequipped. Staff are friendly, befitting a small hotel, and ready
to see to your every need. Q 15 rooms. Prices from 45-85.
Extra bed 25. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PHRULGW
Christina
DoubleTree by Hilton
C-4, Str. Ion Slatineanu 13, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4)
021 210 73 03/(+4) 021 210 73 04, office@hotelchristina.ro, www.hotelchristina.ro. A smart hotel in the northern
part of the city centre, located on a quiet side street. The rooms
are well sized, bright and have splashes of colour all over them
(and each room is a different colour). A great buffet breakfast
is served in the hotels cool restaurant, there is fast free Wifi
and they even claim to offer a free shirt-pressing service. Q
24 rooms. Prices from 79-89. Extra bed 15. Prices include
breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHKW
Class Bucharest
Str. Garlei 30A, tel. (+4) 037 213 57 00, fax (+4) 037
213 57 03, reception@class-hotel.ro, www.class-hotel.
ro. Close to Baneasa Airport what this place lacks in city
centre-ness it more than makes up for with comfort. This is
to all intents and purposes a five star hotel, complete with
luxurious bathrooms and perhaps the best indoor swimming pool in the city. Really. If you are looking for a leafier
location than the city centre can offer, and a little luxury at a
Dan B-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39
D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, fax
(+4) 021 200 62 73, daniela.lazar@hilton.com, www.
doubletree.com. Located just off Bulevardul Unirii, the
DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass and steel in
an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish
rooms, with commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual
staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharests hotels.
Good cafes (there are two) to choose from on the ground
floor: one has a covered terrace. Q 87 rooms. Prices from
115-250. Prices include local taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTHRUFLGKDW
Golden Tulip Bucharest B-4, Calea Victoriei 166,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, eservation@

goldentulipbucharest.com, www.goldentulipbucharest.
com. Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both
Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a
fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The
bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
35
36
Where to stay
Where to stay
Short Term Rental
Apart Homes C-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu
33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, fax
(+4) 021 232 17 04, office@accommodation.com.ro,
www.aparthomes.ro. These people have been offering
great apartments in central Bucharest since 1996: they
were one of the first players in the market, and are still
the best. They have a range of city-centre apartments,
from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a
villa in Baneasa. Whats more, they have someone on
call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid service twice
a week and offer a variety of other services, from city
tours to laundry. Magic. Q 20 rooms (5 singles/doubles
50, 5 triples 85, 5 suites 100, 5 apartments 150).
Prices include breakfast and local taxes. VAT not included.
PTR6GW
Cert Accommodation B-5, Piata Walter Maracin-
eanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, office@certaccommodation.ro, www.cert-accommodation.ro. A

good selection of fully furnished, elegant, serviced studios,
one, two and three bedroom apartments in and around the
city centre. Children and babies are welcome: cots can be
supplied on request. Q 20 rooms (1 studio 40, 9 apartments 55 - 100). Prices include local taxes and VAT.
Breakfast not included. POTFLGKW
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and
modern in design we think its suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their companys dollar. Q 81
rooms. Prices from 85-105. Prices include VAT, all taxes and
breakfast. PTJHRUFLGKW
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata
Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.

com. This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell
of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. All
come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy
armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern.
There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of
which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one
of the best hotel-based eateries in the city. Q 70 rooms. Prices
from 78-98. Extra bed 29. Prices include VAT, all taxes and
breakfast. PTHRLGKW
Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord,
tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, reservation@hellohotels.ro,

www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked so good. For
your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room
here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses
thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but
they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money
goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the
place a short walk from the station. Q 150 rooms. Prices from
33-69. Prices include VAT and taxes. Breakfast not included.
PR6ULGKW
Ibis Gara de Nord A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, reservations.nord@

ibishotels.ro, www.ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than 40
years this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift
when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now.
Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual
services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good
value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite
the station. Q 250 rooms. Prices from 49-79. Prices include
VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person).
PHR6ULGKW
Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.

(+4) 021 401 10 00, reservations.parlament@ibishotels.
ro, www.ibishotels.ro. If you want a view of Casa Poporului
then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other
than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them
(or otherwise!) from anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely
ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking
rooms and very good staff. Q 161 rooms. Prices from 49-95.
Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9
per person). PTHR6ULGKW
Minerva B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, reservation@minerva.ro, www.

minerva.ro. It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will
not even try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold
watch, it remains a great choice for business people who pay
their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a choice of
smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only
asked for a fraction of what the five-stars charge. The oldest
Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor,
there is a lively bar and a good spa, complete with jacuzzi,
sauna, Turkish bath and massage. Q 147 rooms. Prices
PHRFGKDW
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, info@
rembrandt.ro, www.rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well
in advance) you will see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt
is what happens when people with taste renovate buildings
in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs
- unsurprisingly - to the same people). Luxurious without

overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and
period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. The hotel celebrated its eighth birthday in January 2013:
long may it go on. Q 16 rooms. Prices from 75-118. Extra
bed available. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTRUGKW
Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021 311
49 27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, office@hoteltrianon.ro, www.

hoteltrianon.ro. If location really is everything then you cant
do much better than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu,
next to the Ministry of Defence and opposite Cismigiu Park.
The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street that
boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are
up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully
decorated and offer excellent value for money. Bathrooms have
either a bath or a shower. Q 26 rooms. Prices from 85-133.
Extra bed 18. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTHR6UGKW
families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a

great breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside
info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Q 6
rooms. Prices from 20-54. Prices include breakfast, VAT and
local taxes. T6GW
X Hostel C-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 76 13/(+4) 0785 21 15 15, Bucharest@xhostel.eu, www.xhostel.eu. Bucharests newest hostel, and
already forging for itself something of party-central reputation. As such it is probably not the best place in town for a
quiet night in, yet the young crowd that frequents the place
hardly mind that. Good, clean dorms and bathrooms, and a
number of singles for those who can splash the extra cash.
Free Wifi, but breakfast not included. Q 24 rooms. Prices
from 5-45. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not
included. PT6GKDW
Villa Barrio
B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)

0734 33 30 20, www.barrio.ro. Bang in the centre of the city
this villa, once the residence of the legendary Cartagiu family,
is a terrific choice for anyone looking to be close to the citys
best night spots and restaurants. Rooms are not big but are
comfortable, equipped with all mod-cons and have excellent
en suite bathrooms. Besides, as they have just opened and
the prices are seriously low, these must currently be the best
value rooms in Bucharest. Q 8 rooms. Prices from 30-40.
Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included.
PHGW
Hostels & Villas

Doors Hostel C-7, Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 336 21 27, office@doorshostel.com, www.
doorshostel.com. Clean, colourful and rather spacious hostel
a short walk south from Piata Unirii. Located in a classic Bucharest house it benefits from a gorgeous garden/courtyard, an all
you can eat breakfast and free Wifi, amongst much else. Note
that they have only shared, mixed dorms: there are no private
rooms. Q 5 rooms. Prices from 12-35. Breakfast, VAT and
local taxes included. PTLGKW
Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00/(+4) 0722 49 59 01,
vila11bb@hotmail.com. Located in a lovely 1920s house
close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian
and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms,
dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers and
37
38
Restaurants
Restaurants
American
Champions B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Mar-
riott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17,

champions@marriott.com, www.championsrestaurant.
ro. Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest (you
can choose one or design your own from an endless choice
of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone weve ever met.
It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the
portions of everything here are enormous: even the childrens
servings are very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will
find a great selection of American pub food, as well as Tex
Mex treats and even some more refined, slow food options.
Famously good cocktails, and more televisions showing sport
than you could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott: up the
stairs as you go in and to your right. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PTLSW
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206
62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, http://www.hardrock.
com/bucharest. One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe,
you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come
for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after and
have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or late
drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all people
the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are
as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the service
comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff. We love
it. Lets rock. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLESW
Asian
The Gang Restaurant & Lounge C-3, Calea Floreasca
111-113, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91, www.thegang.ro. Very
nice indeed. Though probably more famous as being the top
peoples club, The Gang also has a restaurant serving some
fabulous Asian/Fusion food prepared by not one but two
(count them: you will see them as the kitchen is open, how
refreshing) Nepalese chefs. Whats more, though its location
in Dorobanti/Floreasca screams fitze, the place itself is understated and decorated with incredible restraint and good
taste. Add in some eclectic live music and you have a winner.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. . PLESW
Belgian
Waterloo D-5, Str. Traian 188, tel. (+4) 021 320 35 88/
(+4) 0744 526 048, www.waterloo-taverne.com. This is
a rough and ready type place, with long bench seats - meaning
you may find yourself sitting with a stranger who turns out
to be the person of your dreams. The prices are such good
value, youll be shocked. The quality wont shock though, as
it is good; very good. Well worth the visit. Go for it. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
British
The Trafalgar Pub C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Popular with

all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this
place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent
meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company.
The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the
Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba
de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu
varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on
draught at a decent price, and there is a heated, enclosed
terrace at this time of year. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. . PLVBSW
Chinese
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4,
MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 12

85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Dating back to 1980s this little piece of Bucharest foodie history
was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. It is still one of
the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good
eateries come and go fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable,
the setting is good, with a nice covered terrace overlooking
busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. You will find the Nan Jing on
the ground floor of the Minerva hotel. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVBSW
Food & Drink

What do we mean by Food & Drink?
Simple: places in which you could just as easily sit down
and have a three course meal as you could spend a night
on the beer or cocktails.
18 Lounge A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50
14 01, office@18lounge.ro, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or

dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. On the
18th floor of one of the newest office buildings in the city, this
place doesnt need to serve decent food to attract clients:
fortunately, it does. More than just a restaurant though the
lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a
smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a self-declared
anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the
centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never
kitsch. We like it. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:30. . PLESW
Embassy C-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0733 50 03 00, contact@embassy-club.ro, www.

embassy-club.ro. Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central
and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town
now) has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet
burger - widely regarded as one of the citys best - and much
else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of
place that grows on you as the evening wears on, and in all
likeliness you will stay until very late. We usually do. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. . BSW
Market 8 B-3, Str. Serban Petrescu 8, tel. (+4) 0734

80 80 80/(+4) 021 231 51 43, restaurant@market8.ro,
www.market8.ro. Have we been along this road before?
Yes, there was once a Market 8 in Lipscani: it didnt last
very long, so lets hope this one lasts longer, for its nice.
Using much the same concept as before (designer goodies
alongside designer Fusion - and then some - food), the new
location is perhaps better suited to the crowd it wants to
attract (monied, trendy) and despite initial doubts we were
more than won over on our first visit. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
. PSW
The Harbour B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, office@
harbour.ro, www.harbour.ro. A top location, in Piata Amzei,
with food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The
atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, though
the real joy of this place is its view to the market. We came
here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular
tourist and visitor spots in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. . PLVEBSW
39
40
Restaurants
Restaurants
superb Fusion cuisine. Every time we visit (and we visit as
often as we can) we find something new and interesting - and
usually inventive - on the menu (which changes regularly) and
a good new wine to go with our meal. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,
19:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 180 lei/pers,
children under seven free, children between seven and 12
years half price. . PLSW
Barrio by Embassy B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 30,

MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 22 27 77, enjoy@barrio.ro, www.barrio.ro. Wonderful bar, cafe and restaurant
(the place works as all three) where besides expertly mixed
cocktails you can enjoy some sensational food, chosen from
one of the most adventurous menus in the city. Roasted
duck breast with rice and kumquat sauce and sea bass with
ratatouille and celery sauce are just two of the standout
dishes we entirely recommend. Not as dear as you might
think either. Worth a visit. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:30 - 01:00. . PKSW
Loft Lounge C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60,
MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0756 38 56 38, viviana@

zeroevents.ro, www.loftlounge.ro. It might be too fashionable for some tastes, but the truth is the food is amongst
the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in the
land. Its not just us who say so either: ask anybody in the city
who knows their food and you get the same reply: its brilliant.
Inventive and magnificent food (seafood dominates), cooked
to perfection. The squid served with risotto, for example: it
sounds so simple yet its a taste sensation. Not cheap of
course, but worth the cost. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 24:00. Closed Sun. . PLESW
French
Boutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, boutiquedupain@gmail.

com, www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything you want
from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more
bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening
meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning
pastries is the best in the city, with office workers going out
of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there
is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu
changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. Serving great
coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate, we (and our kids!)
love this place. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00.
. PSW
Escargot Bistro D-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 021

201 71 33/(+4) 0746 79 50 29, bistro@escargot.ro,
www.escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: this is the place for
you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is a sensational
French restaurant where the love and care the chef has for
his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48 hours
to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never eaten in
Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all served
in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . SW
French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae
Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02,

info@frenchbakery.ro, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to
happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers the goods
time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs you
to spend more time here. The menu features a number of
simple, new-wave French cuisine which - for this city - is very
well-priced. The tasty duck dishes stood out for us, as did the
desserts and the excellent wine list which - while featuring a

great list of French grape - for once acknowledges that the
New World can make decent wine too. In short, this place is
a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy of
your time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:30. . PBSW
Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel.

(+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, icietla43@
yahoo.fr, www.icietla.ro. As regular readers will know
we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what we
have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your
gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud
of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine
list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the
magnificent creme brulee. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. . PVESW
La Cantine de Nicolai B-4, Str. Povernei 15-17,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0725 21 06 08, contact@

lacantinedenicolai.ro, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Those
who know their food know that this place is one of the top ten
restaurants in the land. Beyond the Warhol prints on the walls
this is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect flavours
are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his
customers as though he is cooking for his best mates. It is
not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes
and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Special. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
Fusion
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50

30, avalon@hojoplaza.ro, www.hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalonrestaurant. At Avalon, the jewel in the HoJos dining crown,
knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours and smells of the
German
Beraria Bragadiru B-7, Calea Rahovei 157, tel. (+4)
0737 50 01 50/(+4) 0737 50 01 51, rezervari@berariabragadiru.ro, www.beraria-bragadiru.ro. This legendary

beer hall looks better than ever. With German food as good
as anywhere in the city (the potato and sausage soup is a
winner, as is the ciolan) alongside a live Bavarian oompah
band every night it is the perfect place for big groups looking for a raucous night out. Our only complaint would be that
there seemed to be no German beer on draught. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PESW
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel.

(+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, office@diedeutschekneipe.ro, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really,
one of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it
has been around for more than a decade). Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all made on the premises)
as well as pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the
prices down and their punters very happy. You usually need
a reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of
German beer too. QOpen 15:00 - 23:30, Sat 14:00 - 23:30.
Closed Sun. . PNSW
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
E Live music
M Nearby metro station
G Non-smoking
W Wifi
S Take away
41
42
Restaurants
Restaurants
Price Guide
(Based on a good meal with wine)
Expensive
(More than 30 per
person)
Not cheap
(20-30 per person)
Middling
(10-20 per person)
Cheap
(Less than 10 per person)
the treats out back, with the lamb rogan josh - ordered extra
hot - never failing to hit the spot. In fact, we counted no fewer
than 10 lamb dishes on the menu, a rare treat in these parts
where the raw material is so hard to find. QOpen 13:00 24:00. . PVBSW
International
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Con-
tinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, info@

grandhotelcontinental.ro, www.grandhotelcontinental.
ro. Very interesting indeed. A a restaurant brave enough to
admit that food in this part of the world is truly Balkan, and
that the edges between Serbian, Turkish, Greek, Romanian
and Bulgarian food can sometimes be very blurred indeed.
You will find a rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on
the menu in their original language. See you there. Q Open
12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:30. . PLGW
Barbizon Steak House A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman
Indian
Haveli D-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211 03
90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, contact@haveli.ro, www.

haveli.ro. Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in a
brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature toned
down for locals but where chef will - with pleasure - spice
things up for the more experienced diner. We like the long list
of vegetarian dishes, of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine
with tomato and onion) is a particular favourite. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. . PLVSW
Karishma D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021

252 51 57, office@karishma.ro, www.karishma.ro. This
place, by warrant of its bits and pieces layout, is perhaps
the closest thing you will find to a classic British/Indian curry
house in Bucharest. No less than three Indian chefs cook up
Bucharest World Trade Center), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/

(+4) 021 202 16 35, www.pullmanhotels.com. This is
the latest restaurant to open up in the Pullman, and is the
best eatery weve been to at this particular five star. As you
would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks! All the beef
is shipped in fresh from South America, and though prices
reflect the quality you will not argue at the end of the evening.
Good wine list (we like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and
an open kitchen is always welcome. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30,
18:00 - 23:30. . PLW
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021
224 10 04/(+4) 0745 00 36 60, barka.saffron@gmail.

com. We have been coming here since the last century, when
there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little more spicy. Now there
is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka whenever
we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb with spinach
in tomato sauce which was as good as we had hoped. The
onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First class cocktail list.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PESW
Becas Kitchen C-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 30 89 60, home@becaskitchen.

ro, www.becaskitchen.ro. Following much the same path
as that trodden by Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this new
restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful, homecooked food. The place itself is gorgeously simple in its
decor, at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic,
with the menu changing more or less every day: check the
blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy homemade
jams, pickles and the like. Terrific. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. . PSW
Be Nat A-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www.
benat.ro. Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei
serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and
cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if they have it
- the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. Sit upstairs for
the best views of the street below. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. . PVGSW
Bistro Mon Cher B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98/(+4) 0722

63 37 93. One of those places that merits praise simply for
having been around for so long. Weve been coming here for
years, and have always loved the welcoming atmosphere and
simple, tasty bistro food. There is something for everyone,
from sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd to good coffee and
even hot chocolate for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer. Q
Open 08:00 - 02:00. . PBW
Bistro Mon Cheri C-3, Str. Tudor Stefan 16, tel.
(+4) 021 231 09 08/(+4) 0748 75 00 29, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Good little eatery on a side street close
to Piata Dorobanti. Good Romanian food served in decent

portions at fair prices. The ciolan afumat is always cooked
to perfection, and there are always plenty of tasty ciorbas
available too. Also usually has a number of seasonal specials,
and at this time of year serves both mulled wine and boiled
tuica. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLSW
Chez Marie C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33/(+4) 0730 34 48 10, www.chezmarie.ro. A wider variety of dishes you are unlikely to find in a
Bucharest restaurant, and most of the time everything on the
menu is available. We have always stuck with the beef dishes:
both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are good
efforts, but if you simply want a ceafa de porc with fries, they will
rustle that up too. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather
nice. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PLW
Collage A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 10-12, MPiata Victoriei,

tel. (+4) 0758 10 10 40, www.collageworld.ro. Opposite
the Peasant Museum this is a designer restaurant, lounge and
bar where white furniture is in abundance, from the tables to the
white leather sofas. Opens early enough to be a breakfast venue
for late-risers, and lets face it, the kind of people who come
here are not your average nine to five crowd. Its arty, its smart
and its got just the right amount of attitude. And we love the
dogs on chains outside keeping the parking spaces for the rich
and famous. Lounge that stays open until 03:00 at weekends.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PLEW
Concerto Restaurant C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand
Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01

03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine
dining stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with
the appearance of the Grand Continentals showcase dining
43
44
Restaurants
Restaurants
to keep you here for most of the evening. The lamb chops
we ate were terrific: pink and tender, and they went down
well with a plate of fresh spinach. Great atmosphere, good
people, a decent choice for dinner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
. PEBSW
Maison 13 C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0751 13 13 13. For years this place was
Balthazar, one of the best restaurants ever in Bucharest.
Dare we suggest that Maison 13 is even better? Completely
different to its predecessor it is brighter, more contemporary
and, if you want our opinion, more welcoming than the often
stuffy and stuck-up Balthazar could be. This is fine dining
without the heirs and graces, so get here and enjoy a menu
of adventurous treats that changes regularly: so much so
that individual recommendations are pointless. Q Open
10:00 - 23:00. . PBW
Morgan La Dud C-5, Str. Sperantei 7, tel. (+4) 0752
70 03 00, www.morganladud.ro. Dud in Romanian means

mulberry, so you will understand the reason behind the name
of this place the minute you see an impeccably preserved
Morgan and step inside the gorgeous courtyard complete
with mulberry tree in the middle. The food is special, from the
pasta (all made on the premises) to the exciting variations of
Romanian classics (sarmale made with mutton and rolled in
mulberry leaves, for example). The White Duchess gateaux
makes for a smashing dessert. With a range of fine wines
from one of Romanias best vineyards this place is top notch.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . PLSW
room, a match for any other in the city. This is the place to
come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a
long list of the worlds finest wines (from Romania, France,
Italy, Spain, South Africa, North and South America). The
setting is to die for, and the staff are knowledgeable about
both food and wine and will talk you through everything on
the menu. Bucharests gourmands are now indeed spoilt for
choice. QOpen 12.00 - 23.00. . PLGW
Dacia Felix
B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021

311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest.
The best thing about this place is that the cracking breakfast (the best in the city) is open to allcomers: simply turn
up before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day (we
would have liked to have stayed for the day such was the
wealth of goodies on offer, but they had to get ready for
lunch...). Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.
. PLEGSW
Doncafe Brasserie
B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24 44, www.doncafebrasserie.ro. Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English
fry and delicious pain chocolat) its busy throughout the day,
catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a
trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range of
homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together
on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake
are our fave dishes from the menu. You go pick your own. QOpen
08:30 - 24:00. . PLSW
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55
56 93/(+4) 0722 70 25 60, www.restaurantgargantua.

ro. Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through
its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie
with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke

salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are
more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food.
Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen
08:30 - 01:00. . PLVBSW
Kopels A-7, Str. Sirenelor 87, tel. (+4) 0740 89 09 61. One
of those places that we often think we should keep to ourselves

and not put in the guide. Set in a small house on a street that
amazingly survived the Centru Civic bulldozers, this is a restaurant that is quite simply a labour of love for all involved. The food
is inventive, mainly seasonal and the chef is never afraid to try
something new. The cheesecake is something of a Bucharest
legend. Kids are welcome, many of the customers appear to be
regulars, and the atmosphere is one of the most relaxed in the
city. Top food usually comes with an attitude: not here it doesnt.
QOpen 12:30 - 22:00. . PLVBSW
La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Redesigned

and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining
(pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good
quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is available
buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for
families or groups on the run. The wine list remains a work
of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers,
children between six and 12 years half price, children under
six free. . PEGSW
Le Theatre B-5, Str. George Enescu 2-4, MPiata Ro-
mana, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 74/(+4) 0733 97 64 71,

www.letheatre.ro. A bit of food with your jazz? Or a bit of jazz
with your food? There is always usually something happening at Le Theatre, and even if there isnt, the food is enough
Omnivores Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata

Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro.
Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central
Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose from each
day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try
and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or
four). You can take away if there is no space. The kind of
place Bucharest needs loads more of. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGSW
Phill Str. Drumul Potcoavei 120, tel. (+4) 0743 17 20
17, phill@phill.ro, www.phill.ro. This place, located in
Bucharests northern suburbs, takes restaurant design in the
Romanian capital to new heights: we have not seen its like before. Contemporary, bright, modern yet with a traditional twist
it is a sensational place to eat. Whats more, the food, which
could easily be overwhelmed by such surroundings, is as fresh
and inventive as the design. Great place to impress clients or
dates. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
Sofa Restaurant & Bistro Cafe C-2, B-dul Barbu
Vacarescu 241A, tel. (+4) 0756 10 05 00, rezervari@

gosofa.ro, www.gosofa.ro. Sensational contemporary
restaurant which caters during the day to the movers and
shakers in the nearby office buildings, while in the evening
it becomes the eatery of choice for Bucharests foodie set.
Everything on the menu, from the duck with foie gras to the
saffron risotto with tempura prawns is fantastic, and worth
every penny. Theres a cheaper but no less tasty bistro menu
too. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant), 08:00 - 24:00
(Bistro Cafe). . PLESW
Teatro B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest
City Centre), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30,

fax (+4) 021 313 11 37, www.novotel.com. So-called
because the Novotel stands on the site of Bucharests preWorld War II National Theatre, this is a great new addition
to the citys restaurant scene. Expect inventive, exciting
new flavours, all served in a warm and most un-hotel like
45
46
Restaurants
atmosphere. An instant hit. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Sunday

Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for children under
12. . PTULGW
The Vinyard
A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021

224 00 34, contact@laveranda.ro, www.laveranda.ro.
The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this is now the hotels
flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where everything
is lovingly prepared by Exec Chef Ashlie Dias and his highly
experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine
you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit
different on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes
require waiter or audience - thats you, diner -participation.
An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
. PEW
Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021
231 40 77, office@uptown.ro, www.uptown.ro. Uptown
indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the
city, the citys wealthiest people come here to eat. The real
draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al
fresco even when its snowing outside. The food is good,
a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which
share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap
but value for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in
advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table
on the terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
. PBSW
Varr D-4, Str. Silvestru 67, tel. (+4) 021 210 30 39,
www.varr.ro. Calling itself The House of Tastes there are
certainly plenty of tasty treats on the menu here. Set over
three levels (including a lovely loft) in a wonderful 19th cen-
Restaurants
tury house, this elegant restaurant combines good food with

good wine and good jazz music: there is a live performance
most evenings. Serves the best broccoli soup weve eaten in
this city, and look out for the lunchtime set menu: a bargain.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PLVBSW
Veranda Casa Frumoasa B-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi 5,

MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, www.verandacasafrumoasa.ro. Simply put, this one of the top five restaurants
in Bucharest. Combining a contemporary setting with fine food,
this is a gourmets delight. The frequently changing menu is a
mix of cuisines and flavours and always - no matter how often
you come - features something new and exciting to try. The
conservatory-esque setting is terrific, and there are outstanding
wines and champagnes to complement the food. A top, top place.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
Italian
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, caffecitta.

bucharest@radissonblu.com, www.caffe-citta.ro. Styled
as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis
here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes
and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special:
go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any
number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the
kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. QOpen 11:00 23:30. . PLGBW
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99 (+) 0723 26 90

30, capricciosa_restaurant@yahoo.com, www.restau-
rantcapricciosa.ro. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria

whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do
truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those every day on
a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown
for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates
that top restaurants dont have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00 24:00. . PLSW
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bu-
charest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.

cucinarestaurant.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW
Marriott is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find
probably the best (and perhaps only) swordfish steak in the
city. The veal cutlets are incredibly expensive but worth every
penny, while for a simple reminder of great cooking and intense
flavours, the pumpkin and goose liver soup is a masterpiece.
No fewer than 19 good Italian reds grace the wine menu.
Q Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.
. PLESW
Grano C-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 40, tel. (+4) 0731 14 81
87/(+4) 021 231 23 86, office@grano.ro, www.grano.

ro. An Italian the likes of which many of the other so-called
Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream of becoming.
Serving simple yet delicious food - such as the saffron risotto
- that will have you telling all your friends to come here, you can
also buy many of the special ingredients they use in their little
shop. Oh, and did we mention the chocolate cake? QOpen
09.30 - 22.00, Sun 09.30 - 18.00. . PLESW
Modigliani Pasta/ Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48
06, modigliani@interconti.ro. A new menu this spring
means that you just have to get along here, to what is the
InterContinentals showpiece restaurant. Boasting top chef
Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, the Italian stakes continue

to get ratcheted up another notch, and it is all to the benefit
of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is
the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb,
and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer.
The warm foie gras with onion confit starter was probably
our favourite dish, however. Prices are high-ish, but reflect
quality, and by no means reach the levels of a few other
places we could mention. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. . PLW
Osteria Gioia A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 16, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 37 50/(+4) 0734 04 46

42, rezervari@osteriagioia.ro, www.osteriagioia.ro.
One of very few genuinely brilliant Italian eateries in Bucharest. Everything is done properly, from pasta made on
the premises to the correct oils for the different dishes. We
ate the excellent troffiette with smoked pancetta, porcini
mushrooms, truffles and pecorino, which was followed by
slow-cooked veal shanks in wine and aromatic herbs. Even
the place itself is wonderful: long, narrow, with a great bar it
is a foodies heaven. Go there. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. .
PLBSW
Ristorante Il Calcio
A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4) 0729 57 48 02, catalina_

r23@yahoo.com, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to
Trattoria Il Calcio? Yes. For this is a ristorante, a notch up
from trattoria. Expect a more refined menu and surroundings, but the same warm, friendly service and great value (if
pricier) food youve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys.
This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada
Clucerului, quickly becoming something of a magnet for great
places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLBSW
47
48
Restaurants
Romanian History to 1945
Romania BC The Danube basin first becomes recognisable as a state under Burebista (82-44BC), whose
empire of Geto-Dacians comprehended what we today
call western Wallachia, Transylvania and the Banat.
The Roman Years The Geto-Dacians are defeated after
two campaigns (from 101-102 and from 105-106) by a
Roman Empire about to reach its zenith under Emperor
Trajan. The Romans abandon Dacia in 271, its borders
having become increasingly costly to defend.
The Middle Ages After Goths, Pechenegs and Cumans
all came and went, the Magyars emerge as the dominating force in Transylvania by the end of the eleventh
century, and the province becomes an important regional
military and political centre within the greater Hungarian
Empire. Many ethnic Romanians withdraw to the Danube
basin, where Basarab (c. 1310-1352) creates the principality of Wallachia. Moldavia becomes an independent
principality after Bogdan of Cuhea defeats a Hungarian
army during the winter of 1364-1365.
16th Century After the death of Stephen the Great
(Stefan cel Mare; 1504), Moldavia and Wallachia are
forced to accept Ottoman suzerainty, and when Hungary
is defeated by the Turks at the Battle of Mohacs in 1526,
Romania finds itself entirely at the behest of the Sublime
Porte. In 1600 Michael the Brave (Mihai Bravu) briefly
unites the three principalities, but the new state lasts
less than a year.
18th Century As the Turkish Empire begins to crumble
throughout the region, so the Russian and Hapsburg
Empires fill the void.
19th Century Moldavia and Wallachia achieve independence after the First Russo-Turkish War in 1829.
In 1859, Wallachia and Moldavia are unified. In 1881 a
German, Prince Karl of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen,
is invited to become the countrys king, and takes the
name Carol.
Early 20th Century Carol dies in 1914 and his nephew,
Ferdinand I, becomes King. The country remained neutral during the Great War until 1916, when Romania sided
with Britain, France, Italy and Russia. At the 1919 Paris
Peace Conference Romania was awarded Transylvania,
Bucovina, Bessarabia, Southern Dobruja (Dobrogea) and
part of the Banat.
In 1930 Ferdinand died, and was succeeded by his
wayward, playboy son, Carol II, who reigned until 1940
before being forced to abdicate in favour of his son,
Michael.
Romania remained neutral at the outbreak of the Second
World War, but after General Ion Antonescu formed
a government in September 1940, Romania declared
war on the USSR. Romanian forces then occupied Bessarabia, and fought on the side of the Nazis until August
23, 1944, when Michael attempted to stave off a Soviet
invasion by ousting Antonescu in a palace coup (quite
literally - Antonescu was arrested at Peles Castle, in
Sinaia). Romania then re-entered the war on the side
of the Allies on August 26, but the Red Army occupied
Bucharest shortly after.
Restaurants
Robertos C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21
21. Robertos is bigger and better than ever. It now boasts
an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private
dining room. The food is simple, classical, with the menu
boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions.
The Gualtiero Machesi risotto with gold leaf is amazing, and
the baccala with mash sensational. Its not cheap, but prices
reflect the high quality. In a nutshell, its worth every penny:
this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Q Open
06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch
from 13:00, 195 lei/pers, 92 lei/children between six and 18,
free for children under six. . PTGSW
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4, Str. Mendeleev
1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.

trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right here, not least the
bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the
seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable.
There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place
itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth
a look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section.
Commendable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PSW
Trattoria Il Calcio C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel.

(+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we
have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space
in the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit
hit and miss but the good - if not outstanding - Italian food at
fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner.
Stick to the pizzas, salads, have a little patience and you will
love the place. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
Also at (C-4) Str. Mendeleev 14, (+4) 0722 13 42 99; (I-4)
Str. Delea Veche 36, tel. (+4) 0726 01 03 83; (C-3) Calea
Floreasca 118-120, tel (+4) 0728 63 99 06, Soseaua Nordului
7-9, tel (+4) 0724 70 66 65. . PBSW
Trattoria Roma D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 114-116,
tel. (+4) 021 210 81 57/(+4) 0722 36 87 45, www.

trattoria-roma.ro. Brilliant, truly brilliant, and we rarely give
praise that high. It might nominally be an Italian but what
people come to this place for is the seafood. The huge plates
of steaming mussels are top value, and theres fresh lobster
(fresh as in they pick it live out of a fish tank). Add in decent
house wine at giveaway prices, good pasta (a classic aglio,
olio is recommended) and you have a winner. The Eminescu
location is our favourite place in the city right now, and that
from a city guide not meant to have favourites... QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. Also at (A-6) Str. Dr. Lister 1, tel. (+4) 0766 33
42 24, (+4) 021 441 63 30. . PLSW
Japanese
Benihana B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Japanese cuisine, from sushi to sashimi. The vibe is casual,

the set menus are great value, and remember that there is
an Old Town location too. Staff are friendly and helpful, taking time out to explain the finer points of Japanese dining
to beginners. All three locations are well worth a visit, and
if you cant get there in person, theres home delivery too.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Stavropoleos 8, tel.
(+4) 0758 08 84 00, lipscani@sushiko.ro, open 12:00 - 24:00
and at Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City,
ground floor), tel. (+4) 0744 34 44 44, open 12:00 - 22:30.
. PSW
Lebanese
Al Wady C-4, Calea Dorobanti 18, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0730 96 66 66, dukhi_ali@yahoo.com. A new entry
that goes straight to the top of the Lebanese in Bucharest
charts. Superbly cooked and presented authentic Lebanese
food in a fabulous villa located close to Piata Romana, at
prices that are more than accessible to all pockets. Service
is good, staff friendly and at this time of year you can enjoy
it all al fresco. Perfect. QOpen 10:00 - 24:30, Fri, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 01:30. . PLBSW
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Terrific Lebanese

food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are
here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those
tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled
sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked
by the resident Lebanese chef. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLESW
Grenadine B-5, Str. George Enescu 23, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 98 47 38, www.grenadine.ro.
Bucharests most centrally located Lebanese might just be
its best yet. The decor is a step up from other restaurants
of the genre, and the Lebanese menu is both authentic and
extensive. We loved the sambusik - the cheese and spinach
ones especially - the lamb chops and the signature Grenadine
salad, packed with olives and nuts. For the less adventurous there are a few international stand-bys to choose from.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PVBSW
Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021
222 57 55/(+4) 0722 20 50 20, www.piccolomondo.ro.

Lebanese food that is both filling (with plenty for vegetarians
to choose from) and well made. Kebabs are one of the chefs
strong points, and are very tasty indeed. After your meal you
can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. Always packed so reserve a table. QOpen 10:30 - 24:30. . PVBSW
Medieval
Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50

30, www.hojoplaza.ro/en/benihana. With cracking new
menus specially put together for the season, this is a great
time to come and try the vast array of terrific Japanese
specialities on offer at Benihana. A staple on the Bucharest
dining scene for some years now, it is a tremendous mix of
the new, the daring and the traditional. Expert chefs and staff
will explain Japanese cuisine to newcomers, and the chances
are you will want to come more than once. Great value, and
perfect for big groups. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.
. PTULSW
Taverna Templierilor B-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu

3, tel. (+4) 021 367 17 01. A medieval extravanganza of
a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including
a round one, ala King Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your Romanian favourites, from pork knuckles to
home-made sausages and juicy steaks. There is live music
most nights from a top taraf band, and its very difficult not
to have a good time here. Groups especially will love it. Q
Open 24hrs. . PVESW
Sushi Ko B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0736 88 86 88,
Cerisiers A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722
www.sushiko.ro. Three wonderful restaurants. The food

is fantastic, and the extensive menu covers every area of
Mediterranean
59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. We attended a
Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by
49
50
Restaurants
the quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and
fish dishes are the best of whats on the menu, but there is
more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef
carpaccio. As for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city. In the right weather of course. Q
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
Les Colonnes Str. Virgil Madgearu 33, tel. (+4) 0741
18 89 42/(+4) 021 232 24 41, reservation@lescolonnes.ro, www.lescolonnes.ro. French, Spanish and

seafood is on the menu at this excellent eatery in the north
of the city. We ate the lemon chicken with grilled vegetables
and loved it, and the live jazz singer made it all the more
memorable an evening. An active kind of place that wants to
be more than just a dining room its warm, friendly and the
staff make you feel part of the family. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVEKSW
Novi Aquarium Calea Floreasca 111-113, tel. (+4) 031

405 05 97/(+4) 0730 07 77 23, info@noviaquarium.ro,
www.noviaquarium.ro. From the people who brought you
what was for years the citys best Italian restaurant, Aquarium,
is Novi Aquarium, an even better place to eat and be seen,
this time located on one of the most fashionable streets in
the city. The food has moved from Italian to Mediterranean,
with a heavy accent on superior seafood, as well as a few
dishes we have not seen on other menus in Bucharest. The
lamb risotto for example: simple yet fantastic. Great wine list
too, with something for all pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVESW
Restaurant Tortuga D-5, Str. Traian 234, tel. (+4)
0733 07 74 82, tortugamt@hotmail.com, www.tortugarestaurant.ro. Mediterranean restaurant with a heavy accent

on seafood, and lots more besides. Great, big salads, huge
plates of mixed meze (perfect for big groups to share) and no
fewer than four lamb dishes, including some of the best lamb
chops weve eaten in Bucharest. Modern, contemporary yet
understated design adds to the joy of dining here. We like it.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
Sharkia B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel.

(+4) 021 311 90 00. Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like
the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining
at the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what
we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern
Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and
supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of
dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines
and its all done with that magical Radisson swish. We love
it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG
Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80, tel. (+4) 0749 78
83 46/(+4) 031 437 97 29, office@studio-80.ro, www.

studio-80.ro. For something a bit different in a location well
away from the bustle of the city centre it is worth trying the
fare on offer here at Studio 80. A good range of food on offer, from good meats to fish and sea food, and all done with
a genuine Mediterranean twist. Top wine list and prices are
certainly reasonable. Worth the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLVBSW
Villa Rodizio C-5, Str. I. L. Caragiale 32, tel. (+4) 021
211 80 78/(+4) 0755 04 14 81, office@villarodizio.ro,

www.villarodizio.ro. A brand new South American churrascaria (thats a steak house to you and me) serving prime
Brazilian steaks alongside a fine selection of Mexican and
Argentinian dishes. The place itself is a splendid turn of the
century (the 19th, that is) villa renovated to within an inch of
its life and looking quite stunning. The interiors have to be
seen to be believed. The stained-glass skylight being the

(quite literal) highpoint. Theres live music and even tango
some evenings - phone to check when. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PTLEBSW
Mexican/Tex Mex
El Torito
C-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021 252 66 88/
(+4) 0728 17 60 59, www.eltorito.ro. Tex-Mex as it should
be: spicy, tasty but free of frills. Expect the biggest and best
burrittos in the city, topped with lashings of tangy cheese;
sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer than eight types of taco and best of all - that splendid Mexican staple so often forgotten
or passed over as being dull: cream of corn soup. The super
nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main course. In fact, beware:
all the portions here are supersized. Though you would be a
fool to forego a nosh here, if you just fancy a drink at the bar
nobody seems to mind. Let the margaritas and the mojitos
flow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVEBSW
La Tortilla A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 23, tel. (+4) 0734

44 22 11/(+4) 0731 22 11 21, www.latortilla.ro. A short
walk north from the Peasant Museum along B-dul 1 Mai is
this fairly good Tex-Mex joint serving passably good fast-food
style burritos, tacos and quesadillas. Decent prices, attracts
a lot of lunching office workers as well as late night clubbers.
Q Open 24hrs. . PVSW
Modern European
Cafe Athenee C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.

com. The village pub, where the city comes to meet and have
a terrific lunch. The menu boasts a burger long considered
one of the best in the city, and a couple of desserts that will
have you loosening your belts. There is also a bites menu of
substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger,
wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which
is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at
lunchtime. Q Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW
Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson BLU), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.primerestaurant.ro. Boasting a menu put together by Executive
Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen
here since Prime opened more than two years ago, what is
perhaps Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now
serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford
Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing),
we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry
mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops and
the lobster bisque. (And just about everything else). Its
genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny.
Q Open 12:30 - 15.00, 18.00 - 23.00, Sat 18.00 - 23.00.
Closed Sun. . PLG
Romanian
Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021
650 50 00, www.bistrojaristea.ro. From the people who

have long brought you some of the citys finest Romanian
food comes this place, a contemporary eatery for friends.
Duck breast with sweet cabbage, smoked fish and potato
salad, baked carp with garlic and mamaliga are just a few
of the great dishes you will find on the menu. Add in a bright,
breezy setting, good service, visinata by the glass and you
have a terrific new place to eat and spend most of the evening.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
52
Restaurants
Bistro La Taifas B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4)
021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. The thinking mans
La Mama. La Taifas means having a chat and thats exactly
what you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie
venue. We remain convinced that the original venue behind
the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better, but the new location
is more spacious, and hosts more regular musical soirees.
The food is great, and booking is still essential. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17, restaurant@casadoina.ro, www.casadoina.ro. Alma

mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the citys
rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest
society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress.
The food is superb, and in a city where standards rise only
to fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of
consistency. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PLESW
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/
ic/1/en/hotel/BUHHA/dining. Breakfast, lunch or dinner on the boulevard; Magheru, that is. If this place doesnt
occupy the best people-watching spot in the whole of the
city, then we dont know where does. The menu has gone
more local of late: you can now enjoy exemplary sarmale
and mamaliga here, as well as a brilliant iahnie de fasole
with ciolan (pork knuckle with beans to you and me). Also
still home of the best brunch in town. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30
- 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175
lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12
half price. . PTLEBW
Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6,

B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65
16, www.restauranttimes.ro. The prawn spring rolls we
ate here were just about the crispiest, lightest and tastiest
we have come across in Bucharest. We couldnt make better
at home (and we tried). There are plenty of other treats on a
varied international (with a hint of Romanian) menu here too.
This is a real surprise of a restaurant: do not let the hotel
location put you off. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLGSW
Hanu Berarilor Casa Soare B-6, Str. Poenaru Bordea
2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09, (+4) 0729 40 08 00, www.

hanuberarilor.ro. This place is the new must visit restaurant in Bucharest. Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place
you could write a book about) it is a very good Romanian
restaurant serving the kind of food you only usually get in
Restaurants
peoples homes. Seriously: only in two or three other places in
Bucharest will you find carnati de oaie (mutton sausages) or
bors de peste. If you are feeling really hungry go for the platou
mioritic: a huge plate of meaty treats. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . PJEBSW
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52,

tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/(+4) 0721 96 19 36, www.
jaristea.ro. This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed
Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service
and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This
is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an
entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone
ahead and ask then to start preparing it a day in advance)
and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever
produced. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PLVESW
Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
24 80, www.restaurantnicoresti.ro. Maybe we have been

harsh in the past with our reviews of Nicoresti. It is, after all,
one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city,
and given that the service - always our biggest problem with
the place - has improved no end of late, we think it is about
time we give it another chance. We suggest you do the same,
for the food has always been very good. The ciolan de porc
(pork knuckle) with beans is legendary: ask anyone in the city!
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . PS
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20,
rossetya@gmail.com, www.rossetya.ro. Romanian food
is never going to win any awards for originality, it being a mix
of various Balkan cuisines, yet Rossetya tries harder than
most to take it to new levels. As such this is as upmarket as
you can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try
the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed
in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying
is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs
something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00,

vatra@vatra.ro, www.vatra.ro. We have been eating here
for years and we cant recommend the place highly enough.
You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian
food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant close to Old
Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect big portions of
tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent
pint of beer to wash it all down with. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
Violetas Vintage Kitchen C-5, Str. Batistei 23, tel.
(+4) 021 310 06 81, www.violetas.ro. The concept

is great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food
(the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod
towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes
every day. You can check the menu online (it is always up to
date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting
off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The place itself
is tiny yet lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just
so un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug it.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. . PGBSW
Sandwiches
Paul B-2, Str. Radu Beller 1, tel. (+4) 021 230 17 33,
Str. Ion Campineanu 10, tel. (+4) 031 620 12 39 and many
other locations around the city. .
Seafood
Fishbone Lunch & Pub C-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu

fishbonegrill.ro. Another fish restaurant more than worth the
name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments
in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty
of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime
deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here
memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PSW
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel.
(+4) 0754 08 17 75, www.paul.fr. Upmarket sandwich

shops par excellence, now in more and more locations around
the city. The finest, crispiest bread gets wrapped around
upmarket fillings. There are pastries too, and even soups.
A couple of tables inside, but it is mainly a takeaway-place
for the office workers of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also at various locations around the city.
PGBSW
(+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. This place at the

Crowne Plaza is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. It serves
deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the
day it was caught, and the chef will happily cook to order. Q Open
06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 11:30, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . PLEW
Sandwich Factory B-4, Calea Victoriei 12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 620 12 77, www.snackattack.
ro. The best thing to happen to lunchtime in Bucharest...
ever. Sandwich Factory, now with more than eight outlets
around town, stocks well made, well filled sandwiches of
all shapes and sizes, from baguettes to bagels to classic
English doorsteps. Ignore all other sandwich shops and get
here immediately. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at (D-4) Str. Batistei 17, tel. (+4) 031 620 12 43; (C-4)
Mercado Fish & Grill B-2, Str. Prof. Ion Cantacuzino

8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33. Its all change
at Mercado, the restaurant formerly known as Arcade. With
a new name, new look (both inside and out) and superb new
menus it looks set to hang on to its long-earned reputation
as one of the citys best eateries. The big terrace (at the right
time of year) is one of the finest in Bucharest, the location on
a relatively quite street helping to give it an exclusive, secluded
atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
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54
Restaurants
Osho Fish B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021
311 88 26/(+4) 021 311 88 69, www.osho-restaurant.
ro. Doing for Bucharests fish supper scene what Osho did
for meat. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime, fresh
seafood cooked and prepared simply, with real class and with
great care for the natural flavour of the fish. Prices reflect the
high quality of the raw material, so charge it to expenses if
you can, for this is a faultless establishment we have grown
rather fond of. Get in there. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed
Sun. . PVEBSW
Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan
16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, www.

taverna-lazavat.ro. Top little place with more atmosphere in
its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire
bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though
there are local Romanian and international favourites too. An
exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for
vineyard fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Spanish
Restaurant Nada Mas C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 16,
MPiata Romana/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 20 91/

(+4) 021 310 11 52, www.nadamas.ro. Nice. A bright, spacious and thoroughly modern eatery behind the Ateneu. For
starters, take either the gazpacho (as good as it should be) or
the mix of Spanish hams and sausages before moving on to the
decent choice of seafood or meat main courses. We ate the very
good oxtail - which we have not seen on a menu for years - as well
as a portion of paella, which was richly packed with seafood. Then
throw in some walnut tostados for dessert if you have room. At
lunchtime there are very well-priced set menus. QOpen 12:00 24:00. Closed Sun. . PLSW
Restaurants
Steak Houses
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor,
tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, jwsteakhouse@marriott.com,
www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW Marriott hosts one of
Bucharests best chophouses: the JW Steakhouse, only
the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can
expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to
the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The Tomahawk
steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks,
but there is much more besides, including broiled lobster and
Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world
wines, and they open early for breakfast: the JW steak and
eggs is a great way to start the day. Q Open 06:30 - 11:00,
12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children
between six and twelve half price, children under six free.
. PLESW
Osho
B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021

568 30 31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Sometimes when
writing a review, all you really want to write is this place is
brilliant. This is a butchers shop and restaurant serving
T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is
more than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger
(which comes in three sizes) and tangy lamb chops, and
take note that all the meat is Romanian. Plus, theres a kids
menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised
about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills,
Bucharest) they are more than reasonable considering
you get the best of the best. Packed at lunchtime. QOpen
10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. .
PVBSW
Texas West Grill Restaurant A-4, B-dul Banu Manta
2, MBasarab, tel. (+4) 021 222 03 00/(+4) 0732 49

58 95, rezervari@texas-west.ro, www.texas-west.ro.
Not one but two people whose judgement on these things we
consider beyond reproach told us that Texas West was now
serving Bucharests best American burger. Having now visited
ourselves, we can confirm that it is indeed special. There is
much more besides burgers, such as the filet mignon with
mashed sweet potatoes topped with Roquefort cheese.
There are chicken skewers, beef skewers, lamb skewers and
much more. They even have a childrens menu. The setting
is bright and open, and the service impeccable. We loved it.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTSW
Vacamuuu C-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731

35 11 35, office@vacamuuu.com, www.vacamuuu.
com. Currently the most talked-about chophouse in the city.
Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the
most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast
on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match
for anywhere else. There is a kids menu, and the weekend
all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top value. Most of the meat
can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you
wish, and then theres the wine list: a surprise we will let you
discover yourself when you come here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
. PiTVSW
Thai
NEW
Kunnai Str. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43, www.

kunnai.ro. At last, place for those of us who have been
craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago
now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new
apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The
food is the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waanfish stir-fry followed
by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well
worth the money (its good value if not exactly cheap). Get
there now. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00.
. PTLBW
Turkish
Golden Falcon C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4)
021 314 28 25, golden.falcon@bizcity.ro, www.goldenfalcon.ro. Still the greatest kebab house in the land, and
still packing in the punters who come back time and again.
There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade
a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before coming
round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then send it
to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually always go for
the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all of them are well
worth trying. Great desserts too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLS
Urban Contemporary
Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13/(+4) 0743
66 17 82, razvan@madamepogany.ro, www.madamepogany.ro. Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the
new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern,
well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without
ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off
in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that
whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is
a great restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 24:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 02:00. . PLBSW
55
CAFs
56
Cafe Antipa by Artex A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 2,

MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0730 03 01 40. Bucharests
best museum (well, a contender for that title, anyway) also
has its full-on cafe, right inside the museum building. Currently
attracts a cool, trendy crowd of young arty types and coffeebreak mums, you will love it and want to stay all day: it could
just be the most peaceful, relaxing coffee fix destination in
the land. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PLBSW
Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel.
(+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Free Wifi with your
(excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their
coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise
that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that
you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how
busy you are. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PLESW
Cafe Verona C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60, info@cafeverona.ro.

Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and cocktails too. And
if there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre
of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. For lunch,
long lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings with friends it is great,
while for weekend brunch it makes a brilliant alternative to the big,
expensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is a good idea.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. W
NEW
Camera din Fata Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021 311
15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. One of the best cafes to
open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room,
and being here is in many ways just like being somebodys front
CAFs
room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous
tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for
espresso on its way to work. Lovely. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri
08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09.00 - 24.00, Sun 10.00 - 22.00.
Green Tea D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320
93 96/(+4) 0749 09 02 02, www.greentea.ro. We know
that there have been tea houses in Bucharest before, but
none were ever like this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms
have all been lovingly decorated in a different theme (one is
like your favourite Grans front room, another is like a country
house) the list of teas available is as long as your arm. Some
are very exotic indeed. And yes, besides taking tea here, you
can buy just about all of the teas in the shop.QOpen 10:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW
Kafeterya Cafe B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67, www.kafeterya.ro. We know

people who come here so often, and spend so much time
here, that they should probably be paying rent! It is that kind
of place: a friendly, local cafe serving top coffee, cocktails,
light meals, salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are
probably the best in Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas
and armchairs, and we can guarantee that one visit will not be
enough. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PLEXSW
Music Rooms Cafe D-4, B-dul Dacia 32, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0726 53 73 78. Three rooms offering three different

kinds of music: jazz/rock, Cuban and chillout. There is funky
decor in all three, the prices are very good considering the location (just off Piata Romana, opposite the Howard Johnson hotel)
and the crowd that congregates here is fun and trendy yet never
tiresomely so. Definitely worth checking out at any time of day.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. PSW
Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97,

MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.
readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the great things about
the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft
restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground
floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read,
drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect.
The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled,
the salads big and the pasta light. Well separated smoking
and non-smoking sections. Nice. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW
Serendipity Tea House C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie

serendipity-tea.ro. Tea, and lots of it. There are more than
55 types of tea available, including the trademark Serendipity, an aromatic yet fruity green tea with more than a hint
of strawberries. A quiet location just off an otherwise busy

central street make this a superb choice for long, peaceful
afternoons reading a good book with a great cup of tea or
two. Oh, and we should point out that the coffee menu is not
bad either. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
TEGW
Subsol Bar
C-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniversitate, tel.

+(4) 021 315 60 98, contact@subsolbar.ro, www.
subsolbar.ro. Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest.
Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989
revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly - to Romanias architectural association. The cafe and bar which
occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location, a contemporary space where you can enjoy coffee and
cocktails in the company of a good young crowd. There are
tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away of you are if
a hurry. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
Una B-5, Str. Dona Nicolae 18, tel. (+4) 0743 09 59 65,
cafeneauauna.wordpress.com. Not a cafe, not a bar, not a
pub. This is a bright, happy place for all sorts of events, from
karaoke evenings to childrens craft fairs, poetry evenings to film
nights. Oh, and we forgot to mention the dance classes and exhibitions. Check their website to see whats on when: chances
are it will be something well worth checking out. QOpen 14:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. G
Vienna Lounge B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01,
viennalounge@marriott.com. The Marriotts posh flagship
caf, which is exactly as youd expect: classy, enjoyable and
expensive. Sit and try to read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying the occasional live piano
music, plus the sight of business types buzzing about to
conferences. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PLESW
Tekaffe B-4, Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels), MGara

de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00. The in-house cafe at
the Hello Hotel is as smart, cheap and good value as the
hotel itself. Serves good coffee, pastries and the like, and all
with added Wifi. A more than decent meeting place. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. PLSW
Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80, office@tonka.ro,

www.tonka.ro. This place has indeed got soul, and plenty
else besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes
the perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then
gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get
shorter. Theres a good internet cafe in the basement. Q
Open 24hrs. PRESW
57
58
Nightlife
Nightlife
Bars
Pubs
By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little

else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks
may be available). By Pubs we mean venues where you
can drink and get half-decent food.
Almost all of the pubs in Bucharest listed here serve

decent bar food alongside drinks.
Dreamers B-5, Str. Gen. Berthelot 111, tel. (+4) 0723
11 22 00/(+4) 0744 36 63 50, dreamerspub@gmail.

com, www.dreamers.ro. As Spock might say, its Dreamers Jim, but not as we know it. For if you remember the old
location as always being a bit cramped (though we have to
admit it was not without its charms) then you are in for a nice
shock at the new place. Everything you would expect from
a pub is here, from football on the television to Guinness
in the taps. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun
14:00 - 02:00. NSW
English Bar C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. One of our

regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever
be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around
for nearly a century, as long as the hotel) remains today a
classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else
besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed
with business leaders and stylish people most evenings it is
hard not to love it. Even now has a DJ some nights. Q Open
17:00 - 02:00. PLW
Edgars Pub
C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021

314 18 43. At lunchtime office boys and students mix happily as they tuck into great sandwiches and salads, while
in the evening a similarly mixed crowd of good time people
enjoys the laid back atmosphere always on offer here. It gets
crowded downstairs at weekends, but that just adds to the
fun. Recently given a thorough makeover. QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PNSW
Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021

310 20 20. Legendary hotel bar in the lobby of the Eenter,
which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps.
Now its merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in
superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again a decent place to spend
time. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
Energiea B-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4, Str. Comanita 5, tel. (+4)
0730 88 33 77, andrei_gregorian@yahoo.com, www.

pillow.ro. The odd Ikea coffee table aside (and lets face it,
who hasnt got at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these
days?), Pillow is the kind of place we like to see opening up.
It is cool without being pretentious, serves Illy coffee and has
a couple of tables that double as beds, hence the name. It
is in fact the kind of place where you could happily enjoy an
exotic smoke, though as this is Bucharest, not Amsterdam,
the smoke will be limited to tangy middle eastern tobaccos
taken through a narghilea. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 05:00. PLW
Ramayana Cafe A-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11,

MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 16 81/(+4) 0788 59
55 95, www.ramayana.ro. Looking like a cross between a
Maharajas bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi,
this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. You will
not find anywhere in Bucharest quite so startling in design,
nor will you find a better place to bring a secret date for a
little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than your
grandmothers country house, pull up a cushion, sup on a
hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional. Q Open 24
hrs. PEBSW
Sky Bar B-3, Calea Dorobanti 155, tel. (+4) 0724 75 92
27, office@skybar.ro, www.skybar.ro. Leaving aside the

disappointment that Sky Bar - despite being on the roof - is
actually only on the fifth floor, its a classy little place for the
monied set which comes here to drink cocktails and dine on
very good food. The salads are outstanding, as are the steaks
and there is plenty of buffet-style finger food if you just want
nibbles with your drinks. Its corporate and business like but
makes a change from drinking in yet another cellar in Old Town.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PVBSW
Stadio Sports Bar C-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 312 24 92, www.stadio.ro.
Bright new sports bar (what else?), although note that the
sports in question are more than likely to be Romanian: if a
Premier League match clashes with a Romanian game you
will be watching the local excuse for football. The food here is
far better than you might expect for a sports bar: the salads
especially are big and packed with fresh, tasty ingredients.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJSW
Victoria Club C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel
Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00,

info@grandhotelcontinental.ro, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Elegant English bar and cigar lounge that - with its
gorgeous leather armchairs - immediately reminded us of our
favourite bar in Vienna (which shall rename nameless). And
thats exactly what weve found ourselves doing here: its a
great place to get away from the bustle of the city for a bit,
to enjoy the fine selection of English teas (theres good coffee too) and later on one of more than 100 spirits. Oh, and
they have a top selection cigars too, we should add. Q 24
hours. PLW
0736 37 44 32, contact@energiea.ro, www.energiea.

ro. The latest industrialesque bar to open in Bucharest. We
like this place though: the high ceilings and big windows make
it a good choice day and night, the original (we think?) floor
looks great and there are a number of different rooms, not
all of which carry the industrial-chic look. Best of all though
we like the raised interior balcony. Top cocktail-sipping
territory. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PLESW
Happy Pub B-4, Str. Caderea Bastiliei 36, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0729 89 27 68/(+4) 0742 03 49

90, ionimanzatu@yahoo.com, www.happypub.ro. What
could be termed as a good, solid, no frills pub that eschews
clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the beer, the
cocktails and treating its customers well. Theres a regular
crowd of locals and foreigners, and its the kind of place where
you never feel too young or too old. Top selection of brews
(including several imported British beers and stouts), decent
music and bar food. We like it. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PSW
La Calderon 80 C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4) 021

212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 20, lacalderon80@yahoo.
com, www.lacalderon80.ro. With its wooden interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered round big
tables, La 80 does little to distinguish itself from a swathe
of similar establishments. Reasonable food and prices, and
this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat
from more frantic places elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
PBSW
Remember: there are loads more

Cafes, Bars, Pubs and Clubs in
Bucharests Old Town.
See pages 72-87.
Old Nick Pub C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 88 (Piata Lahovari),
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 52 51 50, oldnickromania@gmail.com, www.oldnickpub.ro. Three-level venue in
Piata Lahovari, featuring a club downstairs (open until 4am),
with a pub on the ground floor and a cafe on the first. The
pub is great, unsurprising when you find out that it is run
by the same people who have for ten years operated the
legendary Old Nick Pub in Sinaia. Besides decent drinks at
decent prices there is a good bar food menu, and the cafe
upstairs comes complete with art on the walls (for sale, we
believe) is well worth a visit. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PSW
Primus B-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Big pub

that goes a long towards convincing us that we do not need
to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From
the very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent
pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own
beer, Primus, a decent-tasting bargain. The huge windows
open fully so it feels much like a street cafe. Service is good
too, and we love the retro-style black and white tiled floor.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 24:00. PBW
Shift
C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211 22

72, info@shiftpub.ro, www.shiftpub.ro. Its doubtful that
youve seen anything like this place in Bucharest before. Shift
is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a
word, gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with
the hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this
is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just
about everybody else) love it. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW
59
60
Nightlife
Nightlife
Vice Advice
Terminus B-5, Str. George Enescu 5, MPiata Romana,

tel. (+4) 021 318 16 67/(+4) 0730 22 25 55, contact@
terminus.ro, www.terminus.ro. Pub/bar on the ground
floor, while downstairs there is a basement bar which becomes more a nightclub with an industrial feel as the evening
wears on. Theres a big bar and getting a drink - once not easy
- is now a joy thanks to top staff. The central location right
between the Radisson and Hilton guarantees it a steady flow
of thirsty visitors. Guinness on tap. QOpen 09:30 - 04:00,
Sat, Sun 09:30 - 06:00. PEBW
White Horse B-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4)
021 231 27 95, office@whitehorse.ro, www.whitehorse.
ro. The White Horse has been around so long it should probably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit
we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with
both locals of the ordinary people variety, as well as group
of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal
part upstairs, with bar snacks served down, and though we
have always loved the square bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PBSW
Irish Pub
Dubliner A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 260 26 78. Legendary boozer in the sense
that it was the first real pub to open in Bucharest (back in
1995), the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school
expats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old
Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken pie
and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers a
wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV. QOpen 09:00 02:00. PSW
Clubs & Discos

Bucharests club scene is dynamic and one of the best
in this part of Europe. There is just about something for
every taste, from mega-clubs bringing in top foreign DJs
each week to local live music venues.
Barletto Club Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0751 04 04
06, office@barletto.ro, www.barletto.ro. It has now had

a few names this place, but it remains one of the citys best,
most exclusive and of course most expensive uber-clubs.
Featuring some of the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday
and Saturday nights here are wild. The music is supplied by
the worlds best DJs. You will need to take a taxi here, but
then this is not the kind of place for people who use public
transport anyway... Q Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEW
Europes Smoking Section

Last year, flying in the face of what the rest of the
civilised world is up to, Romania actually softened its
existing anti-smoking legislation. In fact, to all intents
and purposes, there will soon be no more anti-smoking
rules in Romania. This really is The Smoking Section
of Europe.
You see, while smoking will as planned now be
theoretically outlawed in all public spaces (thats
the headline which they will send to the EU), the owners
of those public spaces will now be able to override
the law and decide for themselves if a place is to be
designated smoking or non-smoking. If a place decides
to designate itself as a smoking venue (and lets face
it, they almost all will) under the new law it will not even
have to have a non-smoking section.
As such, in our listings we have only included a nonsmoking symbol where a venue is completely nonsmoking. (There arent many). Otherwise, assume that
venues will allow smoking almost anywhere. While most
will - for now - retain at least a token non-smoking section,
this can often be just one table in a corner somewhere.
Note that when it comes to hotels, we have used the
non-smoking symbol to indicate those hotels which have
fully non-smoking rooms.
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops

per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you
could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital
of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that
prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it
certainly isnt, despite any and all appearances.
This being Romania however, the law is more a minor
obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you
can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you
like, though discretion remains essential.
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically
have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not
exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend)
is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at
these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from
simple hand assistance to full body massage from one,
two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around
50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious
establishments.
The second (and not-always-above-board) option
is to simply head for a brothel (surely erotic nightclub?
Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy
publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as
fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very dodgy, and
often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself
down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before
being joined by some very bored and not always attractive
young ladies (most of Romanias best-looking prostitutes
are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech
Republic). These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and
always try to convince you to buy them cocktails (in fact
orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about 15).
After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if
you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually
a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of
whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100,
as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of the
tab you have already run up of course.
But be careful. Not all of these night clubs are worth
your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical
harm. One such establishment, allegedly, is Stars Night
Club on Strada Ion Campineanu, opposite the Novotel. A
recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group
of American soldiers were recently beaten up here after
refusing to pay a bill of 3,000. Approach all night clubs
with caution.
The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one
of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality
city guides found around town. These escorts are usually
unattractive prostitutes who charge 150 upwards for
sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old
with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large
everything) are commonplace, and you should really think
twice before calling them.
BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)

0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a fairly
non-descript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but
once in, Wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with
great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is
plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and
even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You
will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is
only open twice a week. Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody
else seems to! QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PLEBW
Chaos E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51 14.
Smashing live music club. Expect good - mainly local but often
foreign - live acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably
big name performing at least once or twice a month. Good
beer, a very good atmosphere and a real favourite of big
groups of friends looking for a great night out. You can eat here
too: theres a restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned
Romanian food on site. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW
Control Club
C-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

0733 92 78 61, rezervari@control-club.ro, www.controlclub.ro. Its moved, but still tops our list of clubs for people
who do not like clubs. We have to admit that as we went to
press we had not been to the new location (it hadnt actually opened), but we have been promised that Control will
continue its commitment to live music, as well as playing a
good mix of music. A little more electro, we are told, while
Panic, which has appeared in where Control used to be, will
be keeping it alternative rock. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
61
62
Nightlife
Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22/(+4) 0721 91 82 79, rezervari@

dejavu-club.ro, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that goes
from strength to strength. Still the best cocktail bar this side
of the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food too:
you could spend your whole life in here. The draw though
remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve
fire, and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian
army helmet. They also serve at least one which involves a
young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her
teeth. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is
the sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will love it. QOpen
12:00 - 04:00. PENW
El Comandante Grande D-4, Str. Viitorului 26, tel. (+4)
0728 55 60 43, office@elgrandecomandante.ro, www.

elcomandante.ro. Socialists with an interest in rock music of
the world unite! Despite killing lord knows how many people,
Che remains cool, and all those who blithely wear his t-shirt
will love this little rock club, dedicated to the mans memory,
with portraits at 10, 12 and 2 oclock. If you can leave aside
the politics, then its actually quite good. It is nice to hear
music which doesnt thump, thump, thump, and the warren of
little rooms is probably great for plotting the downfall of the
capitalist system. Drinks are cheap. Revolutionary! Q Open
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PLW
Expirat & OtherSide Club B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4,
MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726

80 41 42, office@expirat.org, www.expirat.org. A club
with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most
eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club
within a club), chances are there is bound to be something
going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything:
folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and
indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for
good measure. (Check the venues Facebook page to see
whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced,
and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait
too long to get served. Top notch. Q Open 20:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW
Fratelli Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, office@
fratelli.ro, www.fratelli.ro. Top notch. One of Bucharests

uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in
the city come to see and be seen. Serving up a neverending
supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear
that the people who run this place consider the music to be
as important as anything else: something not every club in
this town can boast. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick
to the beer and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy
Nightlife
Cinemas
Bucharest is blessed with plenty of good cinemas,
from big multiplexes in the shopping malls to small,
musty, independent cinemas in the city centre.
Films in Romania are shown in their original
language with Romanian subtitles. The exceptions are
animated films: these are usualy dubbed into Romanian, though in larger multiplexes you can usually also
find the original language version. The key words to
look for are dublat (dubbed) and subtitrat (subtitled).
To find out which films are showing, check the
individual websites of each cinema, or browse the full
programme of all the citys cinemas at cinemagia.ro.
Note that some cinemas are open even on Christmas
Day.
Cinema Pro C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, tel. (+4) 031 824
13 60, www.cinemapro.ro. City centre, one-screen
cinema behind Universitate, which shows the latest
releases, with the film changing each Friday. Completely
renovated a couple of years ago, the seats are comfy,
sightlines are good and ticket prices OK: from 9.50 to
17.9 lei depending on the day and time.
Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59
(Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20, www.
hmultiplex.ro. The best complex of cinemas in the city,
offering ten screens, good popcorn and comfortable
seats. Q Tickets 17.40 - 34.90 lei.
IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00,
www.aficotroceni.ro. The first (and still only) IMAX
cinema in Romania is part of the Cinema CIty complex
in the Cotroceni Palace shopping centre. Q Tickets
18-37 lei. P
Movieplex B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania),
tel. (+4) 021 407 83 00, www.movieplex.ro. Big,
multi-screen cinema in the Plaza Romania offering up to
25 different films a week. Features all the latest Hollywood
and local releases, and tends to screen them long after
theyve disappeared from other cinemas. Q Tickets from
14.90 to 45.00 lei.
The Light Cinema Sos. Progresului 151-171 (Lib-
erty Center), www.lightcinemas.ro. Decent multiplex

a short tram ride (No. 32) from Piata Unirii. Find it in the
Liberty Center mall.Q Tickets 10.00 - 35.00 lei.
a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced

night out here. Brilliant. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PE
Joy Pub
B-5, Str. George Enescu 25, tel. (+4) 0755 56 97 82,

office@joypub.ro, www.joypub.ro. Club which hosts all
sorts of events from stand-up comedy to theatre and live
music of all stripes: rock, folk, jazz. Definitely a sound choice
for those of you looking for a more cerebral, grown up and
less rowdy crowd than found elsewhere. Drinks are a decent
price and service is surprisingly good for these parts. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00. PEW
Kristal Glam Club B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, office@clubkristal.ro, www.clubkristal.ro. Its moved. A bit further out
of town than it used to be, it is still the number one venue
in the city for top international DJs, who play here before
they play anywhere else in Romania. The cavernous interior
doesnt have the intimacy or the garish decor of the old place,
but the size of the new Kristal, and the concave roof, mean it
doesnt feel too claustrophobic even when half the city turns
up to dance. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PNW
Music Club
C-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 88

71 15, music.club.bucuresti@gmail.com, www.musicclub.ro. Just about the best live music venue in Bucharest
right now, Music Club is where youll find a great resident
band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your
favourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined
on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians
who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt. Very
nice indeed. Be prepared to have a very good time. QOpen
22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW
Kulturhaus C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.
ro. Good riddance Twice, wilkommen Kulturhaus. A nakedly
non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly (though not
naked, except on fetish nights!) non-commercial crowd on
two levels offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and
indie upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though
it depends on the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least once
a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says NO to
table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the
bar to get a drink. We are fans. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PLE
Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0766 05 61

70, rezervari@panic-club.ro, www.panic-club.ro. Panic!,
possibly the first club in Bucharest named after a song by
The Smiths, offers a mix of music centering on (but in no
way confined to) alternative rock. There are plenty of live
acts performing regularly and theres always a good crowd of
music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly, its open every
night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there
is always, always something going on. Get in. QOpen 14:00
- 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
Le Gaga Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0727 53 42 42/(+4)
Remember: there are loads more
0729 53 42 42, office@legaga.ro, www.legaga.ro. Stylish

and contemporary without ever being as over the top as a few
other places in Bucharest we could mention, Le Gaga is that
most unique of clubs: people here actually seem to be having
a good time. You do not have to be dressed like an idiot to fit
in, the music is a good mix of local and international, and there
are regular personal appearances by top local acts. To call it
decent would be an understatement. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBW
Panic!
Cafes, Bars, Pubs and Clubs in

Bucharests Old Town.
See pages 72-87.
63
64
Nightlife
Planters Club & Lounge C-4, Str. Mendeleev 8,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 96, www.planters.ro. Another Bucharest venue that wins admirers for its
sheer longevity. For more than a decade Planters has been a
default night out location for many people in Bucharest, locals
and visitors alike, although it is barely recognisable from how
it looked back when it opened in 1999. Open by day as a
cafe/lounge and by night (at the weekends) as a club expect
mainstream sounds, theme nights and tasty dancers. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. Club open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PW
Player Hall of Fame Club Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, tel.
(+4) 0720 73 47 34, www.theplayer.ro. There are clubs

in Bucharest, and then there is this place, which is probably
why it is packed most nights until dawn. Always heaving with
beautiful, successful yet never over-the-top people dancing
around to top sounds direct from the dance capitals of Europe,
The Player is the kind of place that puts the hedonism back
into Bucharest nightlife, but in the right way. QOpen 23:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. PLW
The Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel.
(+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro. Currently the best

place to see good local bands. Looking (inside) very much like
a, well. silver church (albeit one which has dropped plenty of
acid), its a cavernous venue with terrific acoustics and it is
this mix of big club/small concert hall that gives it the edge
over some other venues. A winner. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00.
Entrance 20 lei. PUE
Jazz Clubs
Art Jazz Club B-4, Calea Victoriei 52, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0731 64 59 18, www.artjazzclub.ro. Sometimes packed
and bubbling over, at other times less so but always smoky, Art
Jazz Club puts on as many jazz concerts as it can every week
(usually three or four). The quality of the music is almost always
good, and the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area.
Entrance is actually through a small door next to a little car park
behind the Senate, rather than on Balcescu as the address
suggests. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. PENW
Green Hours 22 Club Jazz Caf B-4, Calea Victoriei 120,
tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85, www.greenhours.ro. Legendary,
trendy, atmospheric jazz club, where its almost impossible to
find a table. Make sure you reserve in advance if you want to sit
down. There is live music and other arty stuff - including theatre,
comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular with
a crowd that encompasses all ages, from 18-80, its definitely a
place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest. Q Open
24hrs. PENBW
Casinos
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@
casinobucharest.ro, w w w.casinobucharest.ro.
QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PLVK
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW

Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403
08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www.
grandcasinoromania.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
Havana Princess Casino C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 39 10,
www.worldofprincess.com. Q Open 24 hrs. PL
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4)
0720 22 74 66, platinum@platinumcasino.ro, www.
platinumcasino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PLK
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard
Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4)
0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Q Open 24
hrs. PRULKW
Home Delivery
Jerrys D-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021
311 21 21, www.jerryspizza.ro. Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to Jerrys than pizza
though these days. Hot chicken wings, subs and salads,
for a start. Friendly delivery boys in our experience: always
worth an extra mark. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. Jerrys at Night Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00, tel. (+4) 0722 33 41 41. VS
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733

50 07 50/(+4) 0720 99 33 33, rezervari@orasulinterzis.ro, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Home delivery
arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. PSW
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4,

MP-ta Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726
10 34 07, comanda@lachinezesc.ro, www.nanjing.
ro. Yes! The Nan Jing now does home delivery. Just head
to their website for the full home delivery menu. Q Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
Trenta Pizza, tel. (+4) 021 9645, www.trentapizza.
ro. This is the real deal. Thin, crispy pizzas served piping
hot to your door for peanuts. They do the thick-style pizzas too: make sure you ask for baza subtire - thin base.
They will also bring you a tomato sauce to accompany the
pizza: the hot one is genuinely hot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
66
What to see
Once you have ticked off the sights we highlight in our
Bucharest In Two Days feature (see pages 20-22), you
should start on this little lot...
Buildings with a history
What to see
Bucharest Curiosities
From Caragiale statues to Army Memorials, a small
selection of Bucharests weird and wonderful.
Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor.

Bucharests Arc de triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The original Arc was made
of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed
concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the
Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace
on the top of the monument, though it is strangely closed most
of the time and only opened on special occasions (usually on
national holidays). The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the
monument (and which need serious restoring) were created by
the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin
Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. The Arc is scheduled to be
renovated this year, and a pedestrian underpass built which will
allow people to get to it without risking their lives.
Foisorul de Foc D-5, P-ta Foisorul de Foc/B-dul

Ferdinand 33, tel. (+4) 021 252 28 84. The Foisorul
de Foc (Firewatch Tower) was constructed in 1893 and
was at the time the tallest building in the city. It is 50
meters high. Contrary to the popular belief its purpose
was simply to be a place from where the citys authorities could watch for fires. It at no stage stored water. The
tower today hosts a less than gripping and mono-lingual
Museum of Firefighting and Policing, the best bit of
which is the view from the old observation deck, closed
for decades but now thankfully reopened. Note that it
is usually packed with kindergarten and school groups.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 3.00
lei adults, 1.50 leu children.
Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Benjamin

Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67/(+4) 021 315 87
98, office@fge.org.ro, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly the finest
building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime
baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the citys busiest
public square, competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel,
the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The
work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed
the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated
on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with
money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a
campaign called Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu
pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original
patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian
Philarmonic George Enescu, the auditorium can seat 800
spectators comfortably, and is renowned worldwide for its
outstanding acoustics. QOpen 14:00 - 16:00.
Kilometre 0 & Cristian Paturca C-6, P-ta 21

Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. The statue marks
Romanias Greenwich - the spot from where all the distances to other Romanian cities are measured. Next to
it is a memorial to Cristian Paturca, best known as the
man who wrote Imnul Golanilor, the song of Romanias
student revolutionaries of April, May and June 1990 who
tried and failed to bring down the Ion Iliescu regime.
Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scnteii) A-1, Piata Presei

Libere 1. An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is
still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu
and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar
(though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw,
Poland. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of
the capitals newspapers, it today carries out pretty much the
same function. Jurnalul Naional, one of the countrys most
popular dailies, is just one newspaper still produced here.
The impressive archive of Rompres, the state press and
photo agency, is also housed here. The facade - once rather
fetching - has in recent years been defaced by the addition of
advertising hoardings.
In Piata Roma, at the entrance to Strada Lipscani, is

this statue of the Roman wolf nurturing Romulus and
Remus. A replica of a similar monument in Rome, it was
a presented to the city by the Italian state in 1906, to
signify Romanias Latin origins. Officially called the
Lupa Capitolina, it has led a nomadic existence, and
was most recently kept in Piata Romana. It moved back
here to its original location in 2010. There are three
other identical statues around Romania, in Cluj, Targu
Mures and Timisoara.
CEC (Palatul Casei de Economii si Consemnaiuni)
B-4, Calea Victoriei 13. The home of the National Savings

Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of
the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian
columns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest.
Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the
designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is no
less impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance hall
with its sensational glass roof, and dome that nods towards
the style of later Byzantine cathedrals. The main halls are
elaborately decorated with murals by Mihai Simonidi.
Palatul din Piata Victoriei (Palatul Victoriei) B-4,

B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei. Today the home
of the Romanian government, this linear construction, with
Romanian Army Memorial Palatul Copiilor, B-dul
Tineretului, MTineretului. Bizarre both in design and in

location - some way from the city centre, at the entrance
to Tineretului Park, in front of Palatul Copiilor (the Childrens Palace) - stands, complete with an honour guard of
two soldiers, this memorial to all those soldiers who have
died fighting for Romania, unveiled in 2010.
Romulus & Remus C-6, B-dul Lascr Catargiu.
its marble facade, was built in 1937 to the designs of Duiliu

Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now
elsewhere, on Aleea Alexandu, in far less grand building). Note
that ever since several thousand uninvited coal miners trashed
the place in 1991, entrance to the building has been granted
only to those on government business.
Palatul Justitiei (Tribunalul Capitalei) B-6, Splailul

Independentei 5, MPiata Unirii. Romanias supreme court,
host to any number of libel trials involving our good selves, is
housed in a monumental but rather run down building on the
banks of the Dambovita. Dating from 1890, the Palace of
Justice was designed by Romanian architect Adrian Ballu in the
style of the French renaissance. The recently renovated and
impressive facade is almost 100 metres long.
Sala Palatului B-5, Piata Palatului, www.salapalatului.
ro. The rather startling Sala Palatului, with its concaved roof,
was designed by Tiberiu Ricci (also responsible for the TVR
building) and built over 15 months from January 1959 to April

1960 as an extension of the Royal Palace (to which it is connected). The massive main auditorium, which seats 4,000,
was originally used to host the five-yearly congress of the Romanian Communist Party. It today plays host to exhibitions and
concerts. To make way for the building, and for the apartment
blocks opposite, a 17th century church was demolished: the
first of many to fall victim during the communist era remodelling
of central Bucharest.
Spitalul Coltea (Coltea Hospital) C-6, B-dul. I. C.

Bratianu 1, MUniversitate. The oldest hospital in Bucharest,
dating from 1704, the Coltea was built on land belonging to the
Vacaresti family, who at the time owned great swathes of the
capital. The original building was destroyed by an earthquake
in 1802, and the neoclassical building we see today in fact
dates from 1888. Recently renovated (the facade, at least), it
has seldom looked better. The hospital remains a functioning
municipal health centre, and you may enter only if you have
official business.
Teatrul National (National Theatre) C-5, Piata 21
Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. A building in two parts,
the original National Theatre was built between 1967 and
1970, to the design of three Romanian architects, Horia Maicu,
Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu. Originally styled to honour
the architecture of Moldovas famous monasteries, it was
unfortunately ruined in 1984-5 when the concrete casing that
now stands gloomily in the shadow of the InterContinental was
placed over the earlier structure. However, the rebuilding work
currently being carried out on the building is intended to return
the National Theatre to its original design by the end of this
year. The odd statue in front of the theatre is called the Caruta
cu paiate, a tribute to Romanias best loved playwright, Ion
Luca Caragiale. It features characters from Caragiales plays,
and was unveiled in December 2010.
Universitate (University of Bucharest) C-5, Piata
Universitatii, MUniversitate. Standing moodily over Piata
Universitatii is the main building of the University of Bucharest. It was built over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869
at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of
Romania. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities
and Science), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and
Languages, as well as the universitys administrative departments. The central corp of the building was entirtely rebuilt
in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied
bombing during 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of
the original, many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck
were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.
Historic Churches
Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6, Str. Antim
29. The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the
orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox
Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the
monastery to be a refuge for fallen women, and refugees, as
well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we
today enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery
church is particularly worth admiring, for its sumptuous icons
featuring scenes from the Nativity and Revelations, painted in
1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.
Apostles Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6,

Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii. One of the oldest
churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th
century, when it served as the church of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable for its sublime steeple,
built in 1715, and restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well
worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the churchs
founder, Voivod Matei.
Armenian Church (Biserica Armeneasc) D-5,

B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70, www.armenianchurch.ro. Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper,
this is nevertheless one of the largest and best preserved
Orthodox churches in central Bucharest, the Armenian Church
(built between 1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the
Armenian city of Ecmiazin, and serves the citys once large but
now miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an
interesting library with a large number of documents relating to
the Armenian population (phone ahead for access).
Baratiei Church (Biserica Baratiei) C-6, Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate. Almost poking into
Bulevardul Bratianu, this Roman-Catholic church was built in
1828, although there has been a church here since the late
1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the
church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name,
Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat.
Colea Church (Biserica Colea) C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate. To the left (face on) of the

Colea hospital, the church of the same name was built from
1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent
renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of
the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe
Tattarescu. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above
the vaguely Italian baroque portal. The church (like the hospital
which surrounds it) was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino.
A statue of Cantacuzino stands just inside the entrance to the
hospital courtyard.
67
68
What to see
Creulescu Church (Biserica Creulescu) C-5, Calea
Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the most celebrated
historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creulescu was raised
from 1720-2 by Iordache Creulescu and his wife Safta, a
daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brncoveanu.
The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the
work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added
in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during
the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been
restored to its full glory, and is a must.
Doamnei Church (Biserica Maicii Domnului) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 28, MUniversitate. One of Bucharests many

hidden churches: find it in the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut
on the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta.
The church dates from 1683, and was built on the orders of
Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church
was the first in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note
the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top
of each column. They also decorate the door.
Domnia Balaa Church (Biserica Domnia Balaa)
B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii. To say this church

has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in
1885, the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus
sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744,
but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church
was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately started on
a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years
later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured, NeoRomanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after
another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only
to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977. Be
cautious when viewing.
Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4, Str. Icoanei 12.

The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of
the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brncoveanu.
A wooden church was built on this site in as early 1681-82,
the first brick church being erected in 1745-50, only for it to
collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Rebuilt the
same year, the high altar was added in 1850. Note the grave
of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church,
adorned with a helmet.
Italian Church (Chiesa Italiana/Biserica Italian)
C-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 28, MUniversitate. Juxtaposed by

1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city, the red brick
Italian church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting. Look
at it from the other side of the road however, and its glorious
Neo-Gothic exterior, complete with Florentine tower is quite
stunning. The interior is nothing of note, but acts as a lovely
refuge from the bustling street outside. The church is owned
by the Italian government. Q Daily services (in Romanian) at
18:00. On Sundays, services are as follows: 09:00 (German),
10:00 (Romanian), 11:00 (Italian), 17:00 (Polish).
Lutheran Church (Biserica Luterana) B-5, Str.

Luteran 2, tel. (+4) 021 313 31 65. The unmistakably
steep spire marks the site of Bucharests Lutheran church,
founded in 1778 to administer to the spiritual needs of the
citys Saxon community, then made up mainly of textile traders.
German-language mass is still held here, as are occasional
concerts: the churchs organ is one of the countrys finest. Q
Religious services in German every Sunday at 10:00.
Mihai Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Mihai Vod)
B-6, Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor. Another of the churches that

was moved to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was
What to see
Parks & Gardens
Contemporary Art Gallery
Botanical Gardens (Grdina Botanic) Sos.

Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39,
www.gradina-botanica.ro. Bucharests Botanical Gardens
were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing
of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the
nascent Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs
and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in
the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their
present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part
of Bucharest Universitys Botanical Institute, today extends
over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more
than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which
are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Q Gardens
open 09:00-17:00. Botanical museum open 10:00-15:00,
09:00-13:00 Sat, Sun, closed Fri. Greenhouses open 10:0013:00, closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00
lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
Zorzini Gallery C-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel.
Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertii) C-7,

Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei. So close to the
city centre yet strangely forgotten by many, this large park
was created for the Romania in the World exhibition which
was held here in 1906. (The Technical Museum, to the
left of the main entrance, is housed in one of the original
exhibition pavilions). Designed by the French landscape
artist Eduard Redont, the park is today dominated by the
massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for
Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built
in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza
(it is today empty). The park offers some pleasant walks
along tree-lined paths, playgrounds and terraces, and
good view of central Bucharest from the monument. The
open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next
to the observatory of Bucharest Universitys Astronomy
Department is a popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church,
built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On
the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the
medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from
1906), once a water tower but now used as offices by the
Romanian Armys veterans association.
Cismigiu Gardens (Grdina Cismigiu) B-5, Be-
tween B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str.

Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate. The most central of the citys public gardens,
Cismigiu is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Often
mistakenly referred to as a park, Cismigiu is actually a large
garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German
landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until
1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought
in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were
fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights
of the 17 hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid
out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of
Romanias most famous writers, the lake, which can be
explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon during the winter, and Ion Jaleas French Memorial in Carrara
marble, which commemorates those French troops killed
on Romanian territory during World War I. The park has a
couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and - in summer - terraces, as well as some good, large childrens playgrounds.
It can get very busy in good weather, but it is a lovely place
to spend time.
(+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com. Fine

contemporary art gallery working with both established
and emerging Romanian artists that correspond to the
gallerys aesthetic agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed media. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. PLBSW
originally built in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot
before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In
1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in
its present location behind the apartment blocks.
New St. Georges Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe

Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. The largest
of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin

Brncoveanu, New St. Georges Church was consecrated on
June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been
designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great
Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in
1847, the church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish
architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were
added by Marian Popp. Brncoveanu is himself allegedly buried
under the church, in an unmarked grave.
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str. Dealul
Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii. Set atop one of the citys few

hills, known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has
been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since
the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the
Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of
facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority of the
cathedrals structure is the original, built between 1654 and
1658. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in
1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and closed
to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of Daniel
Ciobotea, the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. It
was built in 1708.
Radu Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Radu Vod)
C-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii. The church of the
former Radu Vod Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of
the Dmbovia, though the construction of the Civic Centre
hid it from the river and from general view. There was originally
a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea
the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and
was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church - which
resembles the Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from
1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19thcentury, when the frescoes (all the work of peerless painter
Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added.
Museums
As well as those listed here, do not forget the Grigore
Antipa Museum of Natural History, the National Art
Museum, the Peasant and Village Museums, which we
have included in our Bucharest in two days feature on
pages 18-21.
Collectivisation Memorial B-3, Inside the Peasant

Museum, MPiata Victoriei. Our favourite part of the Peasant Museum; a small but shocking and moving cellar room
featuring a collection of communist-era busts, paintings and
nostalgic memorabilia. Called a reminder of the pain caused
by collectivisation there are a number of paintings of Stalin

and Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej, but none of Ceausescu (collectivisation was before his time). Be sure to take a Romanian
speaker along to translate the rather chilling newspaper
articles reporting the progress being made towards full collectivisation that are stuck on the walls. Q Open as per the
Peasant Museum, see page 21).
Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica,

tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first king,
Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former
monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and
form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by
a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. The design
would form something of a blueprint for Romanian domestic
architecture for years to come. It served as the Bucharest
residence of the Romanian royal family until 1939.
Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited
on a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of
which were decorated to the whims of Marie, the English wife
of Carols heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand. You will also
be able to view her astonishing art collection.
During the construction of the new wing in the 1980s, ruins
of the original monastery church were discovered, including part
of the original interior frescoes. The church has been partially
rebuilt and can be visited without joining the full palace tour.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00 lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission includes entrance and
the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian,
French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Far more than

just a collection of old rocks and fossils, Bucharests Geology
Museum is one of the citys must sees. First off, there is the
museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders
of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal
Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example
of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The
museums permanent collections are impressive in size and
- being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of
English captions. The museum is also one of the most active
in the city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating temporary exhibitions. It also runs creative workshops for
children some Saturday mornings. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00
lei. There is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours
in Romanian 20 lei, English and French 30 lei.
Sibiu In Your Pocket

European Capital of Culture in 2007,
the Transylvanian city of Sibiu has
long been considered one of Romanias best destinations to visit. It is
no surprise therefore that some of
the biggest names in the hotel business have opened up shop there, as
has In Your Pocket: we now publish
a quarterly Mini-Guide to the city,
available at all good Sibiu hotels or at
any of the citys three Tourist Information Offices.
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70
What to see
History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82

07, fax (+4) 021 311 33 56, www.mnir.ro. The beautiful,
monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that
houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed
from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru
Svulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Pota
Roman, the Romanian postal service. When the post office
moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The
museums exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, and
include a fine collection of antiquities, including statues brought
from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda.
The finest exhibit is the replica of Trajans Column in the central
lapidarium. The museum is less good on Romanias recent
history. The bizarre statue on the museums steps - which
appeared during May 2012 - allegedly represents the emperor
Traian holding a wolf. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject
of much ridicule, and is a popular object for both locals and
visitors to ironically have their photo taken with. Q Open
10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei, students
and children 2 lei.
Minovici Museum of Ancient Western Art (Muzeul

de Arta Veche Apuseana Ing. D. Minovici) Str.
Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) 021 665 73 34, muzeuldeartaapuseana.blogspot.ro. This amazing red brick, mock-Tudor
house holds the small yet stunning renaissance art collection
of Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei in the oil business
in the 1930s. Inside are fine collections of Belgian tapestries,
Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a complete library and
Italian paintings from the 16th/17th centuries. The house
itself is a thing of wonder, from the stained glass windows to
the wooden balustrades and overgrown garden. To get there,
walk north-east from Piaa Presei Libere or take bus No. 131,
301, 335 or 783 to the Mioria Fountain. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Free admission.
National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC;

Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului),

MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, fax (+4) 021 318 91
38, info@mnac.ro, www.mnac.ro. Making excellent use of
the wide open spaces of the Parliament Palace, this vast gallery
displays the work of Romanias finest contemporary artists.
There are also works on display by international artists, and
regular topical exhibitions. We think its one of the highlights
of the citys cultural scene and a visit here has the added
bonus of getting you into the Casa Poporului without taking
the guided tour. The museum even has a great cafe, and if the
weather is good enough its terrace offers fantastic views of
the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
5.00 lei. Free entrance for children and artists.
Sightseeing Tours
Carpathian Travel Tel./fax (+4) 0269 21 13 44,
www.carpathian-travel-center.com. Tours of historic
Brasov, Sibiu, Sighisoara, as well as the surrounding areas.
Carpathian Travel also organise hiking tours, biking tours
and trips to the Danube Delta.
Cultural Travel & Tours Tel./fax (+4) 021 336
31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, www.cttours.ro.
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours
of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a
variety of languages are available on request.
National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if

amusingly so) museum of technology, it should be remembered
that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display
here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day
and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first
appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back
to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in
something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pavilion
(of many) built to host the 1906 Romania Fair, a showcase of
everything great in and about Romania at the time. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00 lei, students,
children 2.00 lei.
Sutu Palace / Museum of Bucharest C-5, B-dul I.C.

Bratianu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58,
www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Much overlooked museum,
despite its location in the very centre of the city. The highlight
is probably the selection of maps of Bucharest through the
ages, while there is also an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea Victoriei, in the days when the
street was paved with logs. The exhibition is well captioned in
Romanian and English, and while small an enjoyable hour can
be spent here. You will leave feeling as though you want more,
however. The museum is housed in the elegant, Neo-Gothic
uu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children under
seven free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik) D-5, Str.
Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Theodor Pallady

(1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as
Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in
Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist
environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before
1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of
Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that
today bears his name has only six of his paintings, a couple of
his sketches and assorted other art. The museums saving
grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest.
Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by
the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu. Walk over the
enchantingly creaky wooden floors and admire the decorated
tavane (ceilings). Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
Zambaccian Museum (Muzeul Zambaccian) B-3,

Str. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A, tel. (+4) 021 230 19 20,
www.mnar.arts.ro/Muzeul-KH-Zambaccian. A not-to-bemissed chance to see the large collection belonging to the
long deceased Armenian businessman Krikor Zambaccian
(1889-1962; youll see the requisite portraits) that includes
the only Cezanne in Romania, as well as the best of Romanian
painters Nicolae Grigorescu, Ioan Andreescu, tefan Luchian,
Gheorghe Petracu, Nicolae Tonitza, Nicolae Drscu, Theodor
Pallady, Iosif Iser, Corneliu Baba, Alexandru Ciucurencu, Horia
Damian, Alexandru Padina, Ion uculescu, and a smaller yet
notable group of sculptures by Dimitrie Paciurea, Oscar Han,
Corneliu Medrea, Ion Jalea and Constantin Brncui. It really
is a thorough look at modern Romanian art. There are also 19
paintings by French artists, including Delacroix, Renoir, Pissarro,
Sisle, Bonnard, Utrillo, Marquet, Matisse and the only Cezanne
in Romania (Portrait of a Little Girl). Q Open 10:00-17:00.
Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7 lei, children, students 3.50 lei.
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OLD TOWN
OLD TOWN
old town
the war didnt destroy (and it destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing
was fierce during the early part of 1944) communism did, most
notably in the form of the grandiose Civic Centre project
that saw almost a fifth of the total area of the city flattened to
make way for Bulevardul Unirii and Casa Poporului. That
anything survives at all is little short of a miracle. While we at
Bucharest In Your Pocket tend to call the area Old Town,
many will know it better as Lipscani, with most locals calling
it the Centru Istoric (Historic Centre).
The area is historic in the main because this is where
Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur
the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built
a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dmbovia
river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if
it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign
of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the
Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town,
and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle
of the 17th century the area was Bucharests merchant district,
which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of
World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses
and businesses which lined the areas streets were arrested by
the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and
left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois
for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with
many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years
(legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies
remain today, and add real character and colour to the area.
Old Towns Sights

While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition
over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent
transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which in the past
three years has turned what was very much a no-go area with
almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capitals liveliest
entertainment district. The area is still something of a work in
progress, but its a rewarding place to explore, one of the few
areas of the capital that is. You will certainly not want for things
to do, to see, or for places to eat, drink and dance.
Old Town: A Brief History
The area of Bucharest described by the Dambovita river to

the south, Calea Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brtianu
to the east and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta to the north is
more or less all thats left of pre-World War II Bucharest. What
The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at

Universitate (C-5), at the twin semi-circular buildings (one is
a bank and the other houses a casino) originally built in 1906
to serve as the headquarters of Romanias largest insurance
company. In front of them are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar
(founder, in 1818, of the first Romanian school in Bucharest),
Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian
Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite
the three Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a
mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education
minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of
the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the
university building itself, constructed over a twelve year
period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan
Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three
faculties (Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses
just the Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the
universitys administrative departments. The central corp
of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it
was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though
rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures

and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable
and lost forever.
From this rather drab square its rather a delight to head
into Old Town proper, especially given that the first sight that
will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss it) is
the beautiful, colourful St. Nicholas (Students) Church. It
is known colloquially as the Russian Church.
Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from
Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven
typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox
cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm)
is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in
Moscows Kremlin.
On your right as you exit the church - at the end of
the street - is the Neo-Gothic uu Palace, home of the
Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie
al Municipiului Bucureti; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 6.00 lei, students and children 3.00 lei).
The palace was built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant
Costache uu. Old postcards and costumes depict life in the
Romanian capital in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will
come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a lively
hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings and
exhibitions. Carry on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you
will see in front of you the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior
of the National Bank of Romania (BNR). It stands on the
site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul
Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of
various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land
was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed
to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert
Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian
columns, and an enormous central banking hall. The passing
of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it
remains a classic worthy of admiration. On the banks far side
(on Str. Lipscani) look out for the remains of another 17th century
inn: visible below street level through hardened glass.
Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading
posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial
street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole
Old Town Shops

Souvenir Shop C-6, Str. Blnari 5, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 32 25, shop@souvenir-shop.com.

ro, www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Everything you would
want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania
and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve
seen so far here, complete with the slogan Send more
tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two.
QOpen 10:00 - 18.00.
Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4)
0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021 310 43 89, www.thomasantiques.ro. By common consent the best antique shop
in the city. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings
to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added
all the time. Upstairs you can even drink coffee, beer or
cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:45.
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74
old town
area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str.
Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have
some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It
also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little
alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes
and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St.
Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a
private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that the
king and queen still have special seats on the left and right
of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should they
ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have
magical healing powers. Back on Str. Lipscani, the Hanul cu
Tei is a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which
today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book
shops, gift and souvenir shops, studios and portrait artists,
as well as a lively and bar/restaurant.
Head next for Str. Stavropoleos, named for the
eponymous church found along its length (Biserica
Stavropoleos; Open 08:30 - 18:00. Services (in Romanian)
on Sunday at 09:30, 10:30).
The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a
Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by
its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest
are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on
a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones
dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled
craftsmen working on restoring them.
For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping
experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere,
a beer hall and restaurant dating from 1875. It is on the other
side of the road to the church a little further up. Church fans
might also want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few
steps to the right is the Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari)
built in the 19th century on the site of an earlier church and
featuring interior frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. They were
painted from 1853-6. The ornate building on the other side
of the road is the headquarters of CEC, the national savings
bank, while the Neo-Classical giant facing it is the National
History Museum, now of course boasting a bizarre statue of
Emperor Traian on its steps. On the far side of the museum
is Str. Franceza, another Old Town street now blessed with
more restaurants, cafes, bars and such like than you could
wish for. About half way along look out for the Sf. Dumitru
Church: Sf. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest. On the
other side of the church (which is currently being renovated)
is Bucharests comedy theatre.
The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan,
home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants.
History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No.
42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected
Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. As Moldavian deputies had
already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place
here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravus
short-lived reign of 1600. At the bottom of Str. Smardan turn
left in order reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court
Palace and Church (Palatul i Biserica Curtea Veche; Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon).
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the
15th century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during
the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later,
this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added
a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons.
The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in
the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much
of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins
were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the
original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal
palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the
site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court
old town
Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was
enlarged in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and
the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca
and Miu Papa, were added in 1847. The churchs exterior
was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever.
Opposite is the Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808 by an
Armenian merchant, it was bought and sold many times
throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries before being
nationalised in 1949. It remained state property until 2006,
when Constantin erban Cantacuzino the heir of its last
private owner won an epic legal battle (which had lasted the
best part of ten years) to recover ownership. Closed a year
later ahead of renovation, part of the inn (the restaurant/bar,
courtyard and some function rooms) was finally reopened in
2011. The inns hotel (the Dacia) remains closed but is poised
to reopen soon.
Old Town Cafes

Cafe Manuc C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, cafemanuc@

hanulluimanuc.ro, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Hanul lui
Manucsclassic cafe is one of the best places in the city to
sit and enjoy either coffee - and there is a huge range - or
cocktails (both with and without alcohol). Sit by the window
and watch the world pass by outside on busy Piata Unirii.
And remember: the place itself is a living piece of the citys
history. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PSW
French Bakery
C-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316

10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to happen. Bucharests
smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with
its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes,
great coffee and a super, covered (at this time of year) terrace
outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about
the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time
of day. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. PSW
Gio Cafe C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 97 40/(+4) 0730 03 07 64, www.

giocafe.ro. Something of a Bucharest legend now, this is
a perennialy popular cafe that hosts business types in the
mornings, who come here to talk big numbers over coffee
and pastries, giving way as the day moves to a stylish, hip
clientele that comes for the good light meals - pasta, soups
and the like - and a cracking list of cocktails. There is another
big, vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at (E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel.
(+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 24:00. PJBSW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Amazing

how quickly this place became the default Bucharest meet
you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of
day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long
windows, a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a
meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple
and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly
cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. There is
also a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function
rooms upstairs, and they now do a great brunch, on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00,
Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
-24:00. PJSW
Klein Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Good cafe
situated on the mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel; it is
the only non-smoking cafe in the Old Town we believe. They
serve a great continental breakfast until 10am, with a vast
selection of croissants, muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats,
yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed orange juice, while
throughout the rest of the day fresh, warm waffles are served
with a choice of toppings. Good hot chocolate, and a wide
range of exotic teas. Nice. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PJGSW
Les Bourgeois
C-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021

310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois.
ro. A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose
longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking
and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always
good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one of over
30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there is plenty to
choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find something they
like. Top desserts, too. Get in. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. PJSW
Old Town Food & Drink

Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassy-hanulcutei.
ro. Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always
one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in
summer) and indoor lounge which serves food and drink to an
older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we
could mention in Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails
and reasonable prices. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-4) P-ta
Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. . PBSW
French
NEW
Bon Str. Smardan 33, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367
21 98/(+4) 0721 37 56 22, www.bonrestaurant.ro.

Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using antique
doors and window frames, the work of the designer du jour
in this part of the world, who also came up with the concept
for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and La Bonne
Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance). The food
is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is
amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops tender, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given the quality. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:30 - 24:00. .
Boutique Restaurant Chocolat Createur de Gout C-5,

Calea Victoriei 12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41
75, www.chocolat.com.ro. Hard to pin this place down. Is it a
cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee?
In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious, well
priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and Italian
bent. There is chocolate of course - loads of it - as well as more
kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next
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76
old town
Coco Bongo C-6, Str. Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0754 02 04 34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Love the name, love

the attitude. Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is
both pub and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well
but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The
food is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service
good, quick and friendly. Worth a look. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. . PVBSW
Trattoria Buongiorno C-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata
to Caru cu Bere. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu

Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83. . PSW
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro.

Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than
anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves
liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie.
Look for the chefs specials too. An open kitchen is always a
good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the
toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Accepts Amex.QOpen
09:00 - 23:30, Mon 18:00 - 23:30. . PEBSW
Negresco C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 3, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 0720 66 77 66, info@negresco.ro, www.negresco.ro.
Probably the best new restaurant to open in Bucharest this year.
This place is classically French, serving a terrific onion soup, two
fabulous duck dishes (the duck breast with fennel and coriander
is amazing), fresh pate, snails and a super apple tart with vanilla
sauce to finish. There is a wide range of wines (many available by
the glass) and it is all served in a well-restored, classy Bucharest
house dating from the 1890s. Downstairs is a bar perfect for
private parties. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PESW
Greek
Meze Taverna C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro.

The newest Greek restaurant in Bucharest, but one which
immediately takes the citys best award. It even looks the
part - we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil
cans - while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There
is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and
the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts), alongside
what is probably the best lamb weve eaten in Bucharest.
The Greek chef Georgios is always coming up with tasty daily
specials, so ask your waiter whats cooking. Ouzo? Let it flow.
QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. . PSW
Italian
Bel Mondo C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725
96 66 36/(+4) 0728 94 10 26, www.restaurantbelmondo.
ro. A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the Old
Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato
soup with mozarella - at prices that are more than reasonable.
The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big,
open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily
the best occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since
Amsterdam itself. Big terrace too as soon as the weather is
good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and
have quickly become big fans of its new location in the Old
Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and
one of the biggest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the
right time of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch
the world go by type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like
the whole city is going by). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. Also at Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor,
tel. (+4) 0731 49 66 59. . PBSW
Vecchio 1812
C-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95
77, www.vecchio.ro. We love it. Making fantastic use of a
gorgeous old building on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant
looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all
evening in. The food is superior Italian, as you would expect
from one of the citys best chefs, and while prices are not
cheap they certainly reflect quality. The jacket potatoes in
a salt crust are one of the best (and most original) starters
we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there. QOpen 12:00 24:30. . PBSW
Lebanese
Manuc Levantin
C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0769 07 58

44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Good
Lebanese food, upstairs at Hanul lui Manuc, the citys last
surviving caravanserai. There is a huge range of dishes to
choose from, and its difficult to go wrong: we ordered a load
of food, and loved it all, being especially impressed by the
lahme bahjeen (minced beef and lamb in pitta bread), the
kafta kebab and the marinated lamb cutlets. Well priced too.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PSW
Sindbad C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 317 77 88/(+4) 0735 22 28 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving
what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous
fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton
dishes as main courses. Theres both an exterior (at the right
time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely
Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy
chairs. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. . PVBSW
Mediterranean
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0737 50 38 90, office@charme.ro, www.charme.

ro. Some of the finest food in Old Town, served in one of the
most elegant and classiest locations around. Check out the
nice little touches such as high quality bread and olives, the
high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order some fine,
light Californian-inspired cuisine. Its a winner from start to
finish. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. .
PSW
78
old town
old town
Romanian Restaurants in Old Town
Caru cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60, (+4) 0726 28 23 73,

carucubere@citygrill.ro, www.carucubere.ro. Should
be the first stop on the list of any visitor to Bucharest.
Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork
- make the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave
without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting
up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and
the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. Good beer, good
service (now: it never used to be) and a great terrace in
summer. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
. PJESW
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel.
Modern European
The Artist Restaurant C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist.

ro. Food as art: a first for Bucharest and a first for Romania.
The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is
set to be a massive hit with the citys foodies, longing for
something a bit different. The grilled jumbo scallops were
probably our pick of the menu, while the lobster sarmale
were a fantasic twist on that most Romanian of dishes. In
keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary
and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without
ever going over the top. Prices reflect the amazing quality.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PLW
Oriental
Adeline Restaurant & Pub C-6, Str. Blanari 9,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0725 73 93 98, www.restaurantadeline.ro. Newly opened where until recently there
was Excalibur. Serving a wide range of international cuisine
alongside a good selection of top oriental food, this is as
good a place to eat in Old Town as anywhere to open last
year. Add in live music and dancing and you have a winner.
Decent prices too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 04:00. . SW
Pizzerias
Vero Pizzaiolo C-6, Str. Smardan 37, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0752 97 93 16, www.veropizzaiolo.ro. One of the
first places to open up when Smardan became gentrified, Vero
Pizza is just about all you want from a pizza joint. Good, thin
and crispy pizza, cheap drinks and service that at least pretends to be interested. Try the house pizza, the pizzaiolo. Q
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PVBS
South American
La Historia de Sudamerica C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 3,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 62 60 43, www.lahistoria.
ro. Found opposite the Teatru de Comedie in a side-street off
Smardan, it carries the seal of approval of the El Comandante
gang, who run it. Expect a Latin American-influenced drinks
menu, bistro-ish food (they serve a good spicy chicken with roast
potatoes) and a crowd of young, successful, advertising/media
types. Music is played at a level allowing people to talk to each
other. A wonderful thing. Q Open 24hrs. Also La Historia de Cuba
at (D-5) Str. Sf. Stefan 13 (corner with Str. Plantelor) tel. (+4) 0785
27 38 75 and La Historia de Argentina at (D-4) Str. Viitorului 26,
tel. (+4) 0724 39 60 43. . VEBSW
Steak Houses
(+4) 0729 62 62 62/(+4) 021 314 24 89, www.

citygrill.ro. They call these places your dining room in
the city, and given the homely food and cheap prices
(the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they
might just be right. Dont expect haute cuisine, but do
expect big portions of simple Romanian food. We like the
carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with
mutton and pork. Theres a good selection of local beers
to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself
looks better than ever too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also
at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and
many other locations. . PJVEBSW
Red Angus Steakhouse C-6, Str. Franceza 56, MPiata
Crama Domneasca C-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata
La Fondue Restaurant C-6, Str. Franceza 56, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 32 20 04/(+4) 0722 29 11

95, rezervari@cramadomneasca.com, www.cramadomneasca.com. Right in the heart of Bucharests
historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed historic
proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all
your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton
to tender pork steaks. The home baked bread is always
served warm (if it is not, send it back) and the wine flows
copiously as evenings get longer and longer. Its the kind
of place where you will be discretely but contentedly
loosening your belt before the night is done. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PJEBSW
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0734 88 44 99, www.redangus.ro. Does exactly what the name suggests: serves great steaks to customers
who like their meat cooked to order. The steaks come from all over
the world, from the US to New Zealand, and there is more than
just classic steaks (like the Rib-Eye): there are great baby back
ribs too, a magnificent burger, and the desserts - if you still have
room after a big meaty feast - are well worth trying, not least the
lemon merengue pie. And they have a childrens menu. Admirable.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVESW
Swiss
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 51 12 99, www.lafondue.ro. Oh
la la. Real French fondue, both cheese and meat, on - what
else - Strada Franceza. The first fondue restaurant to open
in Bucharest we think, and from what we cold tell it is already

popular with groups of friends looking for something just a bit
different to the Old Town norm. You would do well to make a
reservation. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PEW
Mica Elvetie St. Moritz Str. Franceza 60, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 17, info@micaelvetie.ro,

www.micaelvetie.ro. In a superb new setting in a lovingly
renovated building on the edge of Old Town the Bucharest
cooking legend Jakob Hausmann is still delivering the goods
more than a decade after opening his first restaurant. The
menu changes regularly, with a wide variety of daily specials,
all based around the seasons freshly available ingredients. If
you are a foodie who cares about subtle, simple flavours you
are going to love this place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. . PSW
Lacrimi si Sfinti C-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99/(+4) 0725 55 82

86, mihai@lacrimisisfinti.com, www.lacrimisisfinti.
com. Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy
place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very
good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as
anything else, the food is good: a selection of traditional
Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are
decent enough and though a little spartanly furnished and
decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way
after you have finished your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 02:00,
Mon 18:00 - 02:00. . PJESW
Turkish
Divan
C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021

312 30 34, info@thedivan.ro, www.thedivan.ro. From the
Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great
service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The
well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle Eastern, and
its very good indeed. They will even cook you a whole lamb if
you give them at least 24 hours notice. We opted for the less
Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too, as
was just about everything on the menu. After your meal you
can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe: theres a huge range
of flavours to choose from. Live music and belly-dancing at
weekends, and a Turkish DJ on Fridays.QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
. PESW
Manuc Bistro C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11/(+4) 0769 07 58

44, cafemanuc@hanulluimanuc.ro, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Bucharests oldest inn (and one of only two
surviving caravanserai in Europe - the other is in Albania)
which reopened its doors last summer. A new bar has
been put in on the ground floor, and the place had been
spruced up rather nicely. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard
(when the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer
or good, simple Romanian food. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
. PJESW
79
old town
80
Old Town Bars

Absintherie Sixtina C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+40) 21 310 35 66. Late-night bar (well, thats when

we think its at its best) upstairs at Covaci 6. Serves a huge
range of beers (its run by the same people as 100 Beers
around the corner) and exotic drinks, including absinthe,
which comes complete with a natty water dispenser. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PW
Atelier Mecanic C-6, Str. Covaci 12, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0726 76 76 11. You will like it the minute you walk in the
door. Perhaps even before that. Old Town has needed something a bit different for a while, and this place is it. A modernist,
minimalist bar/cafe where every chair and table is different, and
which has something of a What communist Britain might have
looked like-chic about it. The price of beer is good, and they
serve a variety of wines by the glass. Brilliantly simple it is antifitze Bucharest at its best and as a result you can expect to see
us here often. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PBSW
Beer OClock C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, office@beeroclock.ro, www.
beeroclock.ro. This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has
probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it
is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you could
drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the
same one twice. Whats more, besides the beer they also
have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention
to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is now a much
bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old
Town. We prefer the tiny original. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Also
at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PBW
Beraria Kovaci C-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 312 05 52/(+4) 0722 80 01 86, www.

berariakovaci.ro. Beer (more than 40 kinds), very good
pizza and fair bit else besides in a rather nice setting on
Strada Covaci, which, with the recent opening of a few
other decent places is quickly becoming the new Lipscani
street-to-be. Beraria Kovaci is a sweet little place, decked
out with wood and boasting perhaps the comfiest chairs of
any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced and service comes
with a smile. An excellent place for a livener or two. QOpen
14:00 - 02:00. BW
NEW
Bicicleta C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0735 61 62 98. The name means Bicycle, and it will

not take you long to work out why: the place is by and large
old town
furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the

second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long
bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats)
and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something
a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night
is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a
DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
Corks Cozy Bar Str. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)

021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Nice little wine bar tucked
away on an Old Town side street which has quickly won itself
a handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine
list will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast
range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them are
available by the glass. The idea behind this place was to
create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little they
know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not
be intimidated. In that regard, its a total success. QOpen
, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PW
Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0722 10 01 93, dan@interbelic.ro, www.interbelic.ro.

A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden location (find it in
the alleyway which links Str. Blanari to Str. Lipscani) and the
perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret business, affairs
and anything else that springs to mind. Drinks and coffees
are reasonably priced, the staff are friendly and its worth
checking out: if only to show off to someone just how well you
know Bucharest and its backstreets. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. PNW
Klein Bar & Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversi-
tate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar

and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place to
enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite
for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good
bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes
at very reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 23:00. PGW
Laboratorul de Cocktailuri C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. Our new favourite

Old Town location? Possibly. Its a cocktail bar (there is beer
too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where
everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The
name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins
or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask,
while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually,
they have even invested in decent bar stools. Trendy without

overdoing it. Commendable. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 06:00. PNW
Papiota C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

021 315 40 43, www.papiota.ro. The madcap bar Atelier
Mecanic has proven to be so popular that quasi-clones are
starting to appear. Papiota is therefore much like Atelier, packed
with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and bobs, but (whisper
it) might actually be preferable given that it is a bit bigger and that
late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door. It also
has lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced (this
is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing
it. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PW
Revenge C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0722 33 12 26, www.revenge.ro. It is the music that we

like best about this pub and club in the heart of the Lipscani
area. A mix of everything from the sublime to the ridiculous,
it hardly matters that you might not like whats playing: you
will not have to wait long to hear an old favourite. Add in a
casually-dressed, non-fitze crowd and you have a winner.
QOpen 17:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 09:00. PNW
Shakespeare C-6, Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 021 311 19 92, shakespearbar@yahoo.com, www.
shakespearebar.ro. A cracking pub on Strada Blanari, right
opposite the big church, where from day one they appear to
have got it right. A bit spacier and a bit more comfortable
than your average Lipscani venue, expect to find comfy
sofas in the windows, strange but rather fetching art on the
walls and decent staff who know how to pull a decent beer.
The crowd tends to be studenty during the day, getting a bit
smarter and sophisticated as the evening wears on. We like
it. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PBW
Thomas Antiques Bar C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii,

tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Above
the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and
bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something
stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods youve been
admiring. Theres nothing quite like taking tea on an antique chair
you might end up taking home. Regular events too, from string
quartets to book launches and the like. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
Old Town Pubs

Arcade Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0727 25 70 22, www.arcadecafe.ro. One more
reason to hail Strada Smardan as the new Messiah of nightlife
destinations. This little place is a cool mix of cafe, DJ bar and
deadly serious club, though the music is always at the right
volume and never stifles conversation. Basically there are two
parts to this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving hot milk: our
kids liked it!) and downstairs is the club. The cafe is open from
(around) 10am. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
NEW
Barbero C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0767 50 80 80. New Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we

first walked in. The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the
style of an old barbers shop (as the name might suggest). We
love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar, designed
to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by a
DJ, and well priced drinks. QOpen 15.00 - 05.00.
Biutiful C-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. Easily the most talkedabout venue to open in Bucharest. When you walk in, you will
see why: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic
81
82
old town
space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the
comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere rather like
an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The
food is more than decent - salads, tapas and burgers - with
the beef and horseradish sandwich a confirmed winner; The
fish and chips wasnt bad either. A must visit for either drinks
or food, preferably both. Note that they only take reservations
up to 19:00, after that its first come first served. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00. PESW
Bordellos C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Pub, club and eatery where

there is always something going on. From quiz nights and live
music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop
for hedonists. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner on tap
and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great tapas in the
pub (the ribs are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest)
and more sophisticated fare in the Mulanruj restaurant bit. Head
down to the Boudoir for one of the best nights out in the city. You
cant miss this place by the way: just look for the tarts in their
underwear beckoning you in. No wonder it is always full. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW
Clocks C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

031 438 17 59/0723 20 59 59, rezervari@clockspub.
ro, www.clockspub.ro. Its been a few things over the years,
this venue, but Clocks might well be the best yet. A cafe, bar
and pub it is open all day and seems to be as popular with
business-types taking early morning coffee here as it is later in
the evening with party-goers having a quick snifter before hitting the clubs. Comfy chairs a bonus. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PLEW
Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com.
Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was
given over to artisans - especially glassmakers, from whence
the name. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars
have opened here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky
name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there
is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty
of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.
QOpen 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
Elephant Pub & Live Music C-6, Str. Gabroveni 16,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 67, www.elephantpub.ro. Live music pub and club that launches itself into
direct competition with the more established Mojo next door.
Besides the music there are plenty of screens for watching
sports and the like, the beer is well priced and the crowd a
old town
very casually dressed mix of rockers in leather and rollers in

jeans. Make of it what you will. Q Open 16:00 - 02:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PBW
Gang Lads Pub
C-6, Str. Lipscani 66, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0721 56

69 09, www.gangladspub.ro. The opening night party at
this pub was one of the wildest (and simply one of the best)
Bucharest has seen for some time. We hope that having set
such a cracking standard nothing will change. Early signs are
good: this place serves a decent pint of Guinness (on tap,
note, unlike a few other places in this town) and has regular
live music. Theres food too: of a somewhat overwhelming
variety. Punches above its weight this place; see you there.
QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PEW
Late Night Food

Bun de tot Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0733 11 04 64, www.citygrill.ro. The name means good
for everything and everything is what they have here, from
kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs, burgers and the like. Q
Open 24 hrs.
Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii. KFC
on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get
yourself here for your late night/early morning fried chicken
fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00.
Dristor Kebap C-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 315 55 40, www.dristorkebap.ro. Legendary

chain of kebab shops, which began in Dristor but has now
spread city wide, even in to Old Town. Q Open 24 hrs.
Gyros Thessaloniki Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata Unirii. In

our opinion, this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues
speak for themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also
salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Q Open 24hrs.
McDonalds C-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Cen-
tre), MPiata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. The good news

is McDonalds has finally brought breakfast to Romania, so
that much sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now
be yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets. But
only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve them all
day. Q Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at
(A-4) Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos. Pierre
de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu 146-158 and
Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
Oktoberfest C-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. What

makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is. You
will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad
thing - and ordinary, out for a drink and a good time locals at
that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something
happen every night, whether its football on the television or
impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest
beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2,
which has a small terrace. The club Octopus is also inside
(on the ground floor). Q Open 24hrs. PNBW
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Good pub on
Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back. Serves very
good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very
well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far
better than you would assume. The burger was great: try it
with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for something a
bit different. A big screen shows football and the like. QOpen
10:00 - 05:00. PBW
also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed placed - now

fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even serve caviar
pancakes. Definitely a first in Bucharest! QOpen 12:00 04:00. PESW
Team Pub C-6, Str. Lipscani 36, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 0760 32 34 17, www.teampub.ro. Decent enough
pub on the corner of Lipscani and Selari, with good proper
bar stools and a decent range of beers. Efficient waitresses
in red tops serve the customers well. Its popular too: first
time we came here (just after they had opened) it was empty:
now (especially on a Friday or Saturday night) you can barely
get through the door for revelers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PBW
Trinity College C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0747 50 75 07, www.trinitycollegepub.ro. Upmarket

burgers, tapas and the like served in an all-American atmo-
Otro Clandestin Bistro C-6, Str. Franceza 7, MPiata

Unirii, tel. (+4) 0772 08 29 54, www.otroclandestin.ro.
A welcoming, charming bar and bistro on Strada Franceza. The
karaoke night (usually Thursday) is quickly becoming one of the
most popular in the city, they show lots of live sport on television
and the bistro food is good value for this particular neck of the
woods. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PLSW
Sankt Petersburg Pub C-6, Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68/(+4) 0729 19 18 55,
www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. At the end of a well-marked
passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a bright,
colourful bar and club that puts on something different every
night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list there are
83
84
old town
Communist Romania
At the end of World War II, a semblance of democracy was
preserved in Romania by the occupying Soviet Union until
the summer of 1947, when the pre-war political parties,
who had been harassed and persecuted since 1945, were
all banned, and its leaders imprisoned at the notorious
prison at Sigheul Marmaiei, in the north of Romania. King
Michael was given an ultimatum in December 1947: exile
or arrest. He chose exile, and abdicated on December 30.
Though Petru Groza was de jure prime minister until
1953, real power rested in the hands of Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej, General Secretary of the Romanian Workers
(Communist) Party. Dej was the leader of a group of communists who had stayed in Romania during the war, and
which by the late 1940s had defeated another group, led
by Ana Pauker, who had spent the war in Moscow.
Life for most people under Dej was tough: the need to pour
resources into industrialization meant that the production of
consumer goods was neglected, and there were perennial
shortages. The rights of workers were non-existent, and
conditions in factories were generally awful. In the countryside collectivization of agriculture had reduced most farmers
to a status little better than slaves, though in some remote
parts of the country (including parts of the Apuseni and Maramure) opposition to collectivization had been so strong
that local party cadres simply gave up trying to implement it.
Dej died in 1965, just two months before the Ninth
Congress of the Romanian Communist Party. The
keynote address of the congress was delivered by the
relatively youthful (he was 47) Nicolae Ceauescu,
who, to the astonishment of his audience, denounced
the abuses of the Dej years. Most delegates left the
congress full of hope for a more liberal and open society.
Initially their hopes were fulfilled. American films were
again shown in cinemas, foreign books translated and
foreign plays staged. Russian disappeared from the
school curriculum, replaced with French. In 1968 Ceausescu pulled off a political masterstroke by memorably
condemning the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia.
In the early 1970s Romania began borrowing heavily in order to boost industrilaization. Yet these loans were taken at
a time when country was already heavily in debt, and its capacity to repay had been based on overly-optimistic export
projections. By 1981 the countrys external debt reached
$10.2 billion. In 1967 it had been just $3.6 billion. Yet astonishingly, in December 1982 Ceausescu announced that
Romania would repay its entire foreign debt by 1990 in order
to preserve the countrys independence. Achieving this goal,
however, meant exporting almost everything produced
in Romania, resulting in a sharp drop in living standards.
At the beginning of 1983 rationing was introduced
in some provinces for flour, bread, sugar and milk.
By the end of that year only the capital was free of
rationing. Other restrictions were placed on the consumption of petrol, electricity (there were constant
power outages throughout the 1980s) and gas. From
1986 onwards many homes went unheated in winter.
By 1989 Romania was a failed country. Schools closed
early in winter for a lack of heating, nobody worked as people spent all day queuing for basic foodstuffs, and a rampant
black market saw speculators and corrupt officials make
small fortunes. Yet even as late as November 1989, when
the Communist Party held its four-yearly congress, electing
Ceauescu as president for another four-year term, there
was no sign that the regime was in any trouble. When the
end came a month later, it came very quickly indeed.
old town
sphere to an (almost) all-Romanian crowd. Good ribs, good
pizza, good cocktails and Leffe on draught. Stays open late,
and at weekends often has DJs on duty to make sure the
music is good. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PBW
Vintage Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 43, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 0743 79 71 73, www.thevintagepub.ro. Another
Smardan drinking den. And its not bad. Staff are incredibly
hospitable, and the interior dcor is pub-ish without overdoing
it. The Vintage aspect is provided by the hanging of various
antiques on the walls. Cheapish drinks, salads, sandwiches
and a big terrace (at the right time of year) attract a young,
studenty crowd. Hosts loads of events. Q Open 13:30 06:00. PBW
Old Town Irish Pubs

Arthur Irish Pub C-6, Str. Gabroveni 20, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0736 85 84 30, www.arthuririshpub.ro. Another
Irish pub in Old Town. Looks like a huge advert for Guinness,
with black-stuff branding all over the place, complete with
portraits of old Arthur Guinness himself. Needless to say
they serve a faultless pint, the bar (and sufficient bar stools)
are the business and we think it is a real winner. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PEW
OHaras C-6, Str. Franceza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0724 23 95 77, www.ohara.ro. Amazingly, this place has

already been around for two years. (Feels like only yesterday
that it opened). Expect a decent pint of Guinness, live Irish
music and a grand welcome from some fine staff make this
very much the thinking mans Irish pub in Bucharest. The
Lipscani venue (on one of the areas pedestrian streets that
has actually been finished) is a bonus. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PENBSW
Oscars C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 310 32 61, www.oscarspub.ro. Wow, its like a new

place. Forget what you read or thought of this place before
and get there immediately. Its a big Irish pub showing all the
right sports on television and serving an exemplary pint of
Guinness and a top chicken pie. There is also karaoke, live
music and hands-on management. There is a great courtyard
and sublime raised seating area, and now that theyve finished
repaving Strada Covaci you can get here without getting your
shoes dirty. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.
PEBSW
St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 313 03 36/(+4) 0755 11 00 08, office@

stpatrick.ro, www.stpatrick.ro. Big, well located and quite
frankly cracking Irish pub in Lipscani: it really sets the standard
for the many others in the area. Looking every inch just like
a proper Irish boozer, its a real pub all right with decent pub
grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than efficient
staff who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink. Its
a brilliant addition to the Old Town area and has a load of
regulars who have quickly it their home from home. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PESW
The Gin Factory C-6, Str. Lipscani 37, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 38 36, reservations@theginfactory.ro,

www.theginfactory.ro. Enormous and gorgeous, this is an
Irish pub well worth taking a drink in, not least for its very nice
booths and break-out areas perfect for private chats and the
like. The big bar is well-manned and it never takes long to get a
drink regardless of how busy it is. Theres a DJ on-site spinning
tunes of all sorts after about 8pm, and though the Guinness
is only by the bottle, they do have Ursus Black, so we can
live with that. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PBSW
Clubs & Discos

Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Yes: that is really what it

is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to
the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is
different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it
could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes.
Regardless of what is going on you probably enjoy it. QOpen
20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
Chat Noir C-6, Str. Blanari 5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0740

10 07 97, www.clubchatnoir.ro. Club where a young crowd of
locals dresses well (especially the ladies) and dances to a very
good if sometimes strange mix of sounds until the very early
morning. There are various other events too, such as Romanian
stand-up comedy and the like. You might want to check out the
excellent if eclectic artwork on the walls before you start dancing.
QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PEW
unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to

classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this is the one
place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of the
week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as all sorts of
events during the week, from theme nights to theatre. QOpen
12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PENBW
Colors Afterhours Club C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0763 54 72 23, facebook.com/
Colors19. This cool, dare we say colourful place is where
you come when everywhere else has closed for the night.
Bucharests top afterhours club, the great sounds make it
the perfect place to carry on partying for a few more hours.
Always packed, we are amazed people still have the legs to
keep going at this time in the morning. We imagine they sell
plenty of energy drinks! QOpen 05:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed. PNW
Club A C-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021

316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Selling the cheapest Red Bull
vodka in the world, this place is a legend. If you want a local,
WiFi W
Bucharest is now dotted with hundreds of Wifi hotspots,
and the vast majority are free. It is rare in fact that you
will come across a venue which does not have Wifi.
Usually, all you will need is a password (divulged as you
order something) though many venues in Old Town dont
even bother: you can simply sit down and start surfing
away. In our listings, we have used the Wifi symbol W
to denote all venues which have Wifi.
85
86
old town
old town
Finnish Cocktail & Club C-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. A little
more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old
Town, Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little
contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital.
The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in
more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is
more to this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne
and beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as
the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to
enjoy yourself here. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. PW
Fire Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Smoky, mainly rock-playing
venue for disaffected youth types. Well, kind of. A makeover
last year has certainly made the place a bit brighter, though
it remains popular most of all among those who like loud
rock music, and who think that Club A around the corner
just isnt sweaty and crowded enough. Cheap drinks help
keep the crowd young and fitze free, and to be honest there
are worst places to go local. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 06:00. PSW
Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0722 37 33 36, rezarvari@freddo.ro, www.freddo.ro. The

biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan. Smart too: when
it started raining we were about to run for cover only for the
roof to be extended, keeping us all dry. Impressive. Now get
there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads:
and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables. You
might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn
popular. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PNSW
La Muse C-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universi-
tate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Last time

we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in
Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it
looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the
entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on
it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue
playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd
a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of
the drinks. We love it. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 06:00. PEBW
Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic.ro. Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor is the pub, upstairs is
the most popular karaoke venue in the land, while downstairs
Crazy Golf in Old Town

Golf Planet C-6, Str. Halelor 5, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 310 64 69/(+4) 0753 87 65 42, contact@
golfplanet.ro, www.golfplanet.ro. Something very
different and original comes to Old Town. Its an 18-hole
crazy-golf course, with added cafe, cocktail bar and comfy
sofas. And it is all in the dark. Kind of: the lights are all
fluorescent and futuristic. Brilliant for families during the
day, at night grab a group of mates and get down here for
a game of golf and a few beers. (We should add that you
are under no compulsion to play golf: you are welcome
to watch everybody else try). It really is the definitive
answer to the perennial What shall we do tonight?
question. Unique. Find it under the Europa Royale Hotel. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun
14:00 - 23:00. PW
in the cavernous cellar there is live music, and then some. In

a nutshell, this place sets the standard for nights out in Old
Town. The beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages
and nationalities and the manager is a top bloke who makes
a point of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands
are not playing, the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now
puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy
too. Top notch. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00. PEW
Opium Stage
been for three or four years. Its the usual mix of luxury and
chic, but the decor is in fact in very good taste: the mix of
colours is well done, and not over-the-top as in so many other
places in thic city. It attracts a cashed-up crowd of young party
people listening to groovy club sounds provided by local and
international DJs. There is live music now and again too, as
well as a regular selection of theme nights. QOpen 23:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
The Vault C-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MUniversitate, tel.
B-4, Calea Victoriei 16 - 20, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)

0720 68 12 02, www.opiumstage.ro. Interesting, very
interesting. A cellar in one of Bucharests grand old passages
has been transformed into a lounge/club, complete with
kitsch decor and leather sofas. What makes it work is that
theyve left the original brick work exposed, leaving you with
the sense that all that kitsch is pure irony. Prices are decent
for the location and the cocktail list tremendous. QOpen
15:00 - 05:00. PN
(+4) 0723 19 99 77. Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes

and smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in
this place, not least because you never know what to expect
on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco
classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute
clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve
inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself. Q Open 22:00 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PBW
Rococo Cafe & Lounge C-6, Str. Selari 12, MPiata
True Social Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 01 88 88, www.clubrococo.ro.

By day a lounge, by evening a trendy club. And a good one
at that. Certainly attracts a wealthy crowd and the decor is
what could be termed luxurious, but the fact that it is packed
out almost every night speaks volumes. A more than decent
cocktail list and plenty of draught beer. Music is a mixed bag
of fairly mainstream club sounds with some local tunes also
making an appearance, but it depends on who is DJ-ing. Good
local live acts too, some nights. Now also has a restaurant.
QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PESW
The Gang C-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0733 97 52 77, www.thegang.ro. Now in Old Town, The
Gang is perhaps the best uber-club in Bucharest, and has
with Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87,

rezervari@trueclub.ro, www.trueclub.ro. In that wonderful location once known as Temple (on the corner of Strada
Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively
live music venue well worthy of your time (its owned and run
by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a
track record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers band or top local act isnt performing you will find karaoke,
and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually
means that there is always something here for everyone.
Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to
choose from. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
87
88
Shopping
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping
centres and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru
and - increasingly - Calea Victoriei. There are plenty of
places to buy souvenirs, and if that special someone is
demanding you bring back something uniquely Romanian,
we suggest Romanian Monopoly, which features the
streets and districts of Bucharest (placing Primaverii in
place of Mayfair). It can be bought for around 120.00 lei
in good toy and book stores. Also look out for Romanian
folk costumes, with the best places to find such items
being the museum shop of the Peasant Museum.
Bookshops
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38,
www.anthonyfrost.ro. Stocks a good range of fiction,
an exceptional range of non-fiction, plenty of childrens
books, and a decent selection of books about Romania
and Bucharest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Crturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel.
(+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous

bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of
English books. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35, kretzulescu@
humanitas.ro, www.libhumanitas.ro. Large bookshop
selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language
books. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Libraria Bastilia B-4, Piata Romana 5, MPiata Ro-
mana, tel. (+4) 021 315 43 14, bastilia@librariumgrup.

ro, www.librariabastilia.ro. On Piata Romana, in a huge villa
dating from 1913 this is a fine bookshop with a cafe in the
attic. Regularly hosts book launches, readings and childrens
activities. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Sala Dalles C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 52 60, www.carti-anticariat.ro.
A good bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that
often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a decent selection
of books in English. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Markets
Bucharest is home to a number of markets, most of
which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but
not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. Also look
out for occasional arts, crafts, peasant and antiques
markets at the Peasant Museum: these are usually held
once a month.
Complex Comercial Rahova Calea Rahovei. A mad,
mad place not for the faint hearted out in the undeservingly
notorious Rahova district of the capital. Find half of Chinas
annual exports on sale at any time. Take the No. 32 tram from
Piata Unirii: it stops right outside.
Piata Norilor
C-7, Str. C-tin Radulescu Motru 9, MTineretului. Great

covered produce market where you will find a wide range of
both local and imported fruit and vegetables. Prices here
are usually a bit cheaper than other markets closer to the
city centre. Find it two minutes walk behind the blocks from
Tineretului metro station. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00
- 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 16:30.
directory
Specialist Wine Stores
Swimming Pools
BvS Wine Bar & Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel.
Club Floreasca B-2, B-dul Mircea Eliade 1, tel. (+4)
(+4) 021 31 00 580, www.berosandvanschaik.ro.

Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the
same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. Its a wine bar and
shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported
wines, tasting them all before you buy. You can also just
pop in for a glass or two. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 24:00.
021 319 81 77, www.clubfloreasca.ro. Big indoor

swimming pool in Bucharests leafiest, most exclusive
neighbourhood. Terrace, restaurant, sauna and fitness
room too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Day tickets
valid 10:00-22:00 cost 80 lei (adults), 40 lei children. Offpeak tickets valid 10:00-17:00 cost 50 lei (adults), 30 lei
(children). Monthly memberships from 350 lei.
Ethic Wine C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4)
Crowne Plaza B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza

Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.
ro. Indoor pool in a leafy setting at the Crowne Plaza
hotel. Sauna, jacuzzi and massage too, QOpen 06:30 23:00. Day tickets valid 08:00-16:00 cost 65 lei, tickets
valid 16:00-23:00 cost 90 lei. Children under 16 cost 60
lei at any time of day if accompanied by an adult. Monthly
membership packages from 600 lei.
0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Wonderful wine

shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both
of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova
in the Republic of Moldova. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Mon
15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharests biggest

and perhaps most famous market. Colourful, huge, and always lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could
buy almost anything here, it is now a strictly meat, dairy
produce, fruit and vegetable market. A good one though.
Watch your wallet. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00.
Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul
Unirii. An astonishing place. Every Sunday morning this place
becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea market. Its
mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine can be
found here, all prices negotiable. Next door is an enormous
second-hand car market. Bus 123 will get you here. Be brave.
Q Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Shopping centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.
aficotroceni.ro. One of Bucharests biggest malls, with
loads of top brand names and the added attraction of an
IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open year round) and
even an indoor roller coaster and childrens funfair. Q Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Baneasa Shopping City os. Bucureti-Ploieti 42D,
tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.

The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it
makes everywhere else look quite small. Just past the old
Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from
Piata Romana. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open
10:00 -23:00.
Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021
327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened
in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. Hundreds of shops,
including Debenhams and Marks & Spencer. Q Open
10:00 - 22:00.
Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 303 02 08, office@unireashop.ro,

www.unireashop.ro. What was once Romanian socialisms
showpiece department store is now a good shopping centre
in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the first
and second floors while the electronics and household appliance shops on floors three and four are also worth a visit.
An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the
basement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Clinics & Hospitals

Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta
Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, fax (+4) 021 599 22 57, spital@urgentafloreasca.

ro, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. If youre squashed by a tram
or fall victim to a dodgy sausage, youll be in good hands here
in what is the best state-run hospital in Romania. Efficient,
clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs.
Medsana A-6, Str. Dr. Nanu Muscel 12, tel. (+4) 021
408 78 00, fax (+4) 021 402 80 76, www.medsana.ro.
Another welcome addition to the privately-run medical sector.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also
at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 9, tel. (+4) 021 408 78 00.
Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4,
tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-5) Str.
George Enescu 12 tel. (+4) 021 316 58 76, (A-3) Str. Clucerului
55 tel. (+4) 021 222 92 26 and many other locations.
Dentists
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion
4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.

ro. Probably the best dentist in the city. Whats more, you
can bring the kids too, as they now have special rooms
equipped just for them. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also
at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
Dent-A-America B-3, Str. Varsovia 4, tel. (+4) 021 230
26 08/(+4) 021 230 28 26, fax (+4) 021 230 28 27,
receptie@dent-a-americainc.ro, www.dent-a-americainc.
ro. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Denta G D-5, B-dul Carol I 37, tel. (+4) 021 313 87 14/
(+4) 031 805 99 97, fax (+4) 021 313 33 06, office@
dentag.ro, www.dentag.ro.
Old Town Conference Suites
Daimon Sport Club D-8, Parcul Tineretului (Opposite Sala Polivalenta), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 021
330 50 71, www.daimonclub.ro. Superb tennis and
fitness club in Tineretului Park, with two swimming pools
(indoor and outdoor). Note that the club house and its
terrace double as one of Bucharests best pizzerias, and
is a great place for Sunday lunch. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Day tickets for the swimming
pool cost 12 (adults), 9 (children between five and 12).
Children under five swim for free.
Hilton Health Club C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3
(Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77,

healthclub.bucharest@hilton.com. Indoor pool, sauna,
steam room, massage, weight and fitness room, and a
host of other wellness facilities. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.
Day tickets cost 120 lei. Membership packages from
750 lei per month.
InterContinental Hotel C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu

4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably
the highest swimming pool in Romania (its on one of the
top floors of the InterContinental hotel). The views are
great (especially when swimming at night!), there is a gym
and steam room too, and when it gets really hot in summer you can go and sunbathe on the balcony. You dont
even need to be a member or guest of the hotel either:
day tickets are available. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Open
06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets valid 06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei
(adults), 40 lei (children). Tickets valid until 06:00-22:00
cost 120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children). Membership
packages cost from 480 lei per month.
Pescariu Sports & Spa D-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel.
021 313 93 15, www.vangogh.ro. More than a mere
(+4) 021 242 16 15, www.pescariusports.ro. Good

indoor and outdoor pools. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Day tickets cost 90 lei Mon-Fri, 120
lei Sat, Sun (adults). Admission for children aged two-13
costs 50 lei.
conference suite, the spaces on the upper floors of the
Ramada Majestic Hotel B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-
Van Gogh Spaces C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4)
buildings above the Van Gogh Cafe are multi-purpose

suites available for standard conferences, but also featuring a number of instant offices.Q PJW
40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, reservations@majestic.ro, www.majestic.ro. Small but rather
nice little pool underneath the Ramada Majestic hotel.
Sauna and jacuzzi too. Q Open 07:00-21:30. Closed
Sun. Admission 50 lei for one visit, 225 lei for 5 visits per
month, 450 lei 10 visits per month.
89
90
directory
Dry cleaners
5asec B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236
00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Best dry

cleaners in town.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4) 021 320 99
95; Jolie Ville, Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 103, tel. (+4) 021 206
80 80; Colosseum Mall, Sos. Chitila, tel. (+4) 021 796 13 11;
B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 891 98 44; Cora
Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel. (+4) 021 776 91 21.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201
56 12.
Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307
50 00.
Casa Frumoasa
A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: Tom Ford, Scabal, Brioni,
Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, Jacob Cohen etc.
Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6, Calea 13

Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand), tel.
(+4) 0731 03 65 63, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Casa Frumoasa Radisson B-4, Calea Victoriei
63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0723 33 17 31,
www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10.00 - 21.00, Sat
10.00 - 19.00, Sun 10.00 - 17.00.
Casa Frumoasa Store B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu
40, tel. (+4) 0723 33 17 30, www.casafrumoasa.
ro. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00.
Elegance Boutique B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0722 45 48 82, www.
elegance-paris.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
J. Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0724 35 30
06, j.k.bucharest@casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
directory
Chile B-4, Calea Griviei 24, et. 4, tel. (+4) 021 312
72 39.
China B-1, Sos. Nordului 2, tel. (+4) 021 232 17 32.

Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 313
04 57.
Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300

08 00.
Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 04.
France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
209 41 73.
Hungary C-4, Str. Prof. Dr. Dimitrie Gerota 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310
21 61.
Israel C-7, B-dul Dimitrie Cantemir 1, tronson 2+3, bl.
B2, et. 5, tel. (+4) 021 318 94 17.
Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
Lebanon B-3, Str. Andrei Muresanu 16, tel. (+4) 021
230 81 75.
Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4) 021
210 08 80.
Moldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74.
Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021
208 60 30.
Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
Philippines A-6, Str. Carol Davilla 105-107, et. 5, ap.
10-11, tel. (+4) 021 319 82 52.
Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211
98 71.
Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00.
Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, tel.
(+4) 021 206 16 00.
Turkey B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 72, tel. (+4) 021 206
37 00.
UK & Northern Ireland C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel.
(+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
For a full list of foreign embassies and representations
in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.
Earthquakes
death. The following advice is provided by the UK Embassy
in Bucharest:
If you are inside a building during an earthquake, stay calm
and do not rush outside. Duck, cover and hold under a table or
strong desk or stand in a corner. Do not stand in doorways. If
you are in bed, stay there until the shaking stops. Turn off the
gas. Stay away from windows and outside walls in high rise
buildings. Never use a lift to exit the building.
If you are outside during an earthquake go to an open area
and stay away from trees, buildings, walls and power lines. If
in a public area, do not rush for the doors. Crouch down and
cover your head and neck with your hands and arms.
Bucharest has in the past been close to the epicentre of a

number of major earthquakes, some of which have caused
much damage to buildings and great loss of life. The last
major earthquake to hit the capital was the great Bucharest Earthquake of 1977 (see photo, above), when more
than 1500 people were killed (including the countrys best
loved actor, Toma Caragiu). The current trend, however,
has been towards smaller tremors (two or three can be felt
in Bucharest each year), which in theory at least reduces
the risk of a major quake. However, despite much research
and speculation, nobody can predict when or where a large
earthquake might occur, but there are things you can do to
be ready. These can make the difference between life and
If you are in a car, stop and pull over to the side of the road.
Avoid overpasses and power lines. Stay inside the car until
the shaking stops. If you are on a train, hold onto a secure
item and follow the instructions of the crew.
The Romanian Government is responsible for assisting
foreign nationals immediately after a major earthquake
or serious natural disaster. It is important to co-operate
with the authorities.
In the event of a major earthquake foreign embassies will
usually try to find their own nationals affected by the disaster
and check on their condition. Please note, however, that the
embassies themselves may also be severely affected by an
earthquake, and may not be in a position to offer immediate
assistance.
91
92
directory
directory
Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live in Bucharest, the good news
is that the city has some outstanding schools: both state
and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state schools in
Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which regularly
meet an outstanding academic level, even if their facilities
are somewhat lacking (few state schools have sports fields).
There are huge differences between state schools however,
and competition for places at the best is tough. There is also
of course the fact that unless your kids can speak Romanian,
the state system will be practically closed to them.
Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill
this breach, and there are now a number of excellent
private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of
education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats:
many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children
to these private schools). We provide a list of the best
private schools below. All boast outstanding academic
records and modern facilities, native English speaking
teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
International Schools
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
Bucharest With Children

Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with
children. The major problem is that the vast majority of
the citys museums with a few honourable and notable
exceptions - are dull, offer no interactivity and little to
captivate little minds. The exceptions are the outstanding
Village Museum (see page 22), which children love, as
they can scurry around the houses, explore and generally
be kids without worrying too much about grump security
guards telling them off. The confectionery stand at the
entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too. The
Peasant Museum (see page 21) will please older children,
especially those who know a little Romanian history (and
note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of the
museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings
at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology Museum
(see page 69) across the road is a must for families: it
is one of only two museums in Bucharest that puts on
exhibitions specifically for kids. The other is the excellent
Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum, see page
21. We recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious
little place that is the National Technical Museum at the
entrance to Parcul Carol. While very old fashioned and a bit
dusty, the kids loved it, as it is packed with models and exhibits
of things which are right up their street: trains, cars, engines,
jet packs, planes and such like.
The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances
most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening) and is
always a hit with kids. You will find details of its performances
at the website www.circulglobus.ro. Bucharests Zoo on
Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn left at the Police Academy) is
better than it has been for years. They have a fine collection
of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out for kids. Entrance
costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily
from 09:00-17:00. And then of course there are the parks.
Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most
central, but Tineretului (take the metro to Tineretului), with
its fabulous playgrounds, is also worth exploring.
An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland
Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when
it rains. Featuring the biggest indoor playground we have
seen (15 lei), bowling, billiards, arcade games and plenty
of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee in, it
is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of the Unirea
Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii. For kids who want to
swim there is Daimon, a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului,
where under fives swim for free. There are also pools open to
the public at the InterContinental and Ramada Majestic
hotels, as well as at the World Class Health Clubs. For more
on Swimming in Bucharest see the box on page 89. ice
skating is also an option: there is a good, indoor rink at the
AFI Palace shopping centre. See page 16.
Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even if the
amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with kids. Those deserving a special
mention include the big hotels - all of which have kids entertainers during their fabulous brunches - the Hard Rock Cafe:
always happy to see kids, Red Angus, Osho, Texas West
and Vacamuu, all of which have a great kids menu.
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/

(+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@
aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro.
Athena Greek School of Bucharest D-6, Str.
Parfumului 9, office-gpa@greekschool.ro, www.
greekschool.ro.
British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae
42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33,
fax (+4) 021 267 89 69, office@britishschool.ro,
www.britishschool.ro.
Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile
Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4) 021
323 54 08, director@bcaromania.org, www.bcaromania.org.
Cambridge School of Bucharest B-3, Calea
Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021
210 21 38, fax (+4) 021 210 20 06, office@cambridgeschool.ro, www.cambridgeschool.ro.
International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori
21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253
16 97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
International School for Primary Education
(InSPE) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence, tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36
36, fax (+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www.
inspe.ro.
International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara
Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021
306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro.
Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85,
fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com,
www.jpschool.ro.
Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021
320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@
yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro.
Lycee Francais B-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4)
021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 94, fax (+4) 021
312 09 74, lfb.adn@lyfrabuc.ro, www.lyfrabuc.ro.
Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu
Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00
09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwainschool.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro.
Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18/(+4)
0722 20 51 10, www.elchei.ro. Call the (+4) 0722 20 51 10

number of you get locked out of your apartment late at night.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Opticians
Optiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021
305 73 15, www.optiblu.ro. Sensiblu - the chemists - now
also offers an optician in some of its outlets. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun.
Optiplaza B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania), tel. (+4)
0372 71 10 00, plaza@optiplaza.ro, www.optiplaza.ro.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-7) Bucuresti Mall, Baneasa
Shopping City and many other locations.
Pharmacies
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Q Open
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other
locations around the city.
Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu.
com. QOpen 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4)
021 233 89 61, and many other locations.
Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur
Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918),
tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66.
Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4)
031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.
93
Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
98
Street register & HOTEL MAP INDEX

13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str.
C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral.,
Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6
Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
A5
Covaci, Str.
C6
Crisana, Str.
A5
Crisului, Str.
C6
Cronicarilor, Str.
C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd.
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr.
B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str.
C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str. B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, G-ral, Str.
C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Izvor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5

Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Poet, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata
B6
Neculce Ion, Str.
A3
Negri Costache, Str.
A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
C3
Occidentului, Str.
B4
Oslo, Str.
B3
Ostasilor, Str.
B5
Otetari,str.
C5
Paris, Str.
B3
Parvan Vasile, Str.
B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
A6
Patriarhiei, Str.
C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str.
B4
Pitar Mos, Str.
C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
B5
Politie, Str.
B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
A4
Polona, Str.
C4
Poni Petru, Str.
A4
Popa Tatu, Str.
B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
A6
Povernei, Str.
B4
Praga, Str.
B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3
INDEX TO HOTEL
NUMBERS ON MAp
H1
Helvetia
H2
Casa Victor
H3
Picollo Mondo
H4
Hello Hotels
H5
Andys
H6
Moxa
H7
Starlight
H8
Duke
H9
Golden Tulip
H10 Residence Arcul de Trimf
H11
Hotel Dan
H12
JW Marriott
H13
Parliament
H14
Ibis Parlament
H15
Volo
H16
Berthelot
H17
Centre Ville
H18
Opera
H19
Palace
H20
Central
H21
Carol Parc
H22
Hilton
H23
Novotel
H24
Capitol
H25
Grand Continental
H26
Lido (closed)
H27
Ambasador
H28
Radisson Blu
H29
Rembrandt
H30
Tania
H31 Relax Comfort Suites
H32
Intercontinental
H33
K+K Elisabeta
H34
Horoscop
H35
Tempo Hotel
H36
Royal
H37 International Bucharest
H38
Hotel Confort Traian
H39 Double Tree by Hilton
H40
Ramada Majestic
H41
Ibis Gara De Nord
H42
Suter Inn
H43
NH Bucharest
H44
Howard Johnson
H45
Scala
H46
Trianon
H47
Epoque
H48
Z Boutique
H49
Bruxelles
H50 Boutique Hotel Monaco
H51
Minerva
H52
Cismigiu
H53
Europa Royale

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.

Bucharest In Two Days

N81 - 15.00 lei

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events

What to see if your time is limited

Bucharests finest street in all its glory

From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps

We have regularly over the past year or two featured

Old Town / Lipscani

The heart and soul of the city

Directory & Children

Everything you need including foreign

Maps & Street Register

February - March 2013

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Bucharest In Your Pocket

The World of In Your Pocket

More than 20 years since we published the first In

Crime & Safety

We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one

While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007,

Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of

Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage

When Things Go Wrong

In their own homes, Romanians are by and large fabulous

Bucharest In Your Pocket

A Word From Bucharests Mayor

Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest

February - March 2013

Local laws & Police

If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea

Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100

1 = 4.37 lei, 1 = 5.07 lei

Bucharests dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly

Some trusted taxi companies:

Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Arrival 2: Gara de Nord

Bucharests only commercial airport is now Otopeni

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara

Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Public Transport Tickets

To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ

Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the

Tarom flies to Belgrade once a day, with prices from

There are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each

There are four flights a day between Bucharest and

Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of spare

February - March 2013

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Under-

pass, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large,

Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN

Schedule valid from December 8, 2012. The full Romanian

Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost

Bucharest In Your Pocket

Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are four

Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. AVIS (2847) - OSSN