BUCHAREST

vents Maps
myourpocket
December 2011 - January 2012
omania
We rate and review Sinaia, Busteni,
Azuga, Predeal and Poiana
Brasov
Romanias Revolution
Trying to explain exactly what
happened 22 years ago
Old Town/Lipscani In
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Contents
inyourpocket
E S S E N T I A L CITY G U I D E S
Contents
Basics
6
Everything you wanted to know about Bucharest
and Romania, but were afraid to ask
Arrival & Transport
10
Navigating Bucharest
Culture & Events

14
Get your knickers ready ladies, To m Jones is coming to town
Ski Romania
18
Looking forward to the new ski season
Romanias Revolution
Peles, Sinaia. A fairytale castle just a couple of hours from

Bucharest. See page 18.
22
More than two decades on, many questions
remain unanswered
Calea Victoriei
26
A walk along Bucharests most historic street
Where to Stay
29
From palaces of gold to flea pits
Restaurants
Where to eat
40
Nightlife
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like
June 1990.
A scene from Laurentiu Calciu's outstanding documentary

After the Revolution, which we feature on page 23 as part
of a major look back at the events of December 1989. We
also explain a little about the background to the Romanian
revolution, as well as the aftermath: The Mineriada of
58
Sightseeing
Shopping, Directory & Children 88
What to see
Where to spend your days
66
Jewish Bucharest
Whats left of the citys Jewish heritage
70
Old Town / Lipscani
74
The heart and soul of the city

Everything from malls and markets to

souvenirs, pharmacies, dentists,
playgrounds and private schools
Maps & Street Register

Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
Street Register & Hotel Map Index
94
96
98
Foreword
The World of In Your Pocket
Bucharest does winter well. Very well. For anyone

brought up in a country like Britain, which gets its
knickers in a twist at the first sign of a light dusting of
snow, the sight of Bucharests trams and buses
running when the snow is metres deep and its
blowing a blizzard is a thing of wonder. Last year -the
worst winter for decades - RATB (the Bucharest public
transport operator) kept the city moving: buses and
trams kept going when even the biggest and baddest
four wheel drives had to be left in the garage.
Of course, it is not all good news. The city is
famously bad at clearing snow from pavements, and
no sooner has the white stuff stopped falling than it
starts melting, the fresh powder that was such fun for
five minutes turning quickly to a dirty mush that
renders many streets impassable and which makes it
downright impossible to cross certain roads (even
main roads in the centre of the city).
Yet winter fun in Bucharest is found easily: locals
love to ice skate in the open air, and you will find
floodlit ice rinks in most of the citys parks, and in
Piata Unirii. The most central ice rink however (and
probably the most famous) is that in Cismigiu. All
rinks have small huts hiring out skates by the hour for
a modest fee, and a post-skate mulled wine is
compulsory. There are indoor ice rinks at the Liberty
Centre and AFI Palace Cotroceni malls (see page
88).
For all things Bucharest (be they good or bad) we
are ready for your thoughts and queries at the usual
email address: bucharest@inyourpocket.com.
Happy holidays.
inyourpocket
E S S E N T I A L CITY G U I D E S
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3 Bl. 21E,
Sc. 1, Ap. 8 014191 Bucuresti,
Romania tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
fax (+4) 021 322 25 22
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl
Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest
Tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09
Published six times per year, up to
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It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new

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Sjttard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia
(ibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia
(Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises
to deliver many more new Pockets.
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Editorial
Editor Craig Turp
Assistant Editor Raluca Tanasa
Photography Craig Turp/IYP
Romania Srl unless otherwise stated.
Cover photo Strada Stavropoleos
Constantin Bogdan Carstea/Dreamstime.
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Bucharest In Your Pocket is a

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Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP
Romania Srl 1999-2012 unless otherwise
stated. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any form,
except brief extracts for the purpose of its
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+40 21 311 9000
BasiCs
A Word From Bucharests Mayor
Cinema: Going to the Movies
I am one of the over two million inhabitants of

Bucharest. This is where I
II i i I
was born, and where I grew
up. I know both the bright
and dark sides of every
nook and cranny. I have
learned the hi stor y o f eac h
ston e, and exp e -rienced
romance while wandering
in Herastrau Park or
admiring the city by night.
I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back
home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest
over and over again. I am sure that there would have been
no better place in Romania to build my medical career,
with all the professional and academic opportunities
that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to
give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of
Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this
city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in.
Bu c har e st is Romanias most impo r tant cultu ral, e c ono
-mic, financial and political centre. It generates more than
20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is inhabited by more
than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major
financial, political and executive institutions are based
here.
As one of 27 European capitals, Bucharest is eager to share
its cultural heritage with the community and the whole world. I
therefore invite you to explore this wonderful city, to discover its
mystery and take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise
and impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetr y.
Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
Films in Romania are shown in their original language with

Romanian subtitles. The exceptions are animated films,
which - at the multiplexes - can usually be viewed in the
original language (subtitrat) or dubbed into Romanian
(dublat). To find out which films are showing, check the
individual websites of each cinema, or browse the full
programme of the citys cinemas at www.cinema.ro.
^^
^1 Iv ^1
Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59

(Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20/(+4) 021
327 70 21, www.hmultiplex.ro. The best complex of
cinemas in the city, offering ten screens, good popcorn
and comfortable seats. Q Tickets 17.40 - 26.50 lei.
IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00, fax
(+4) 031 425 75 13, www.aficotroceni.ro. The first
IMAX cinema in Romania will open at the end of October
as part of the new Cinema CIty complex in the Cotroceni
Palace shopping centre. Q Tickets 19-36 lei. P
The Light Cinema Sos. Progresului 151-171 (Liberty Center), tel. (+4) 021 369 97 97/(+4) 021 369
97 40, www.lightcinemas.ro. The only gripe we would
have with this 3D cinema (the first to open in Romania)
is the creative pricing: tickets never appear to cost what
you expect. Q Tickets 15.00 - 33.00 lei.
Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one

of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare
and almost always carried out exclusively between rival
gangs fighting for the control of territory in the citys lesssalubrious areas.
If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you
getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere
(you should be particularly careful on crowded buses, and
always watch your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty
thieves are by and large a cowardly lot in Romania and will
run a mile at the first sign of any resistance. Knife-crime
is unheard of, and even women can walk the citys streets
alone at night in relative safety.
The Romanian police force is also far better and less
corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on
the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town
at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul
Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and
Piata Victoriei.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of
them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense
and all will be well.
BasiCs
When Things Go Wrong
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city
code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll
be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call
centre operators should speak English or French but in our
experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you
know the name of the street you are calling from.
If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to
call your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The citys
main police station is the brand new building at (B 4)
Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the
city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C 3) Calea Floreasca 8,
next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box
on page 11. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 91,
and an English speaking Dentist on page 89.
Customs Regulations
While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007,

which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement
of goods between member countries, United Kingdom
customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such
you are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes
purchased in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged
to point out, however, that you will be passing through the
blue channel on arrival in the UK and the chances of being
stopped are almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere
in the EU, there are no limits on the amount of cigarettes
you can bring home from Romania. Alcohol is similarly
unrestricted. For those of you travelling outside of the EU
when leaving Romania, you should check the import limits
on fags and booze with your destination country before
travelling.
The export of some antiques purchased in Romania
(especially old religious icons) is subject to the completion
of tedious paperwork, although any reputable antiques
store or dealer will be able to take care of this for you. Ask
when buying if you are not sure.
Etiquette
In their own homes, Romanians are by and large fabulous

hosts. So much so that making friends and getting yourself
invited should be top of your list of things to do while in
the country! You had better be hungry, because the food
never stops coming, on and on, dish after dish. You must
bring something: flowers, chocolates or a bottle of good
whisky.
You will probably be offered local brandy, uica. It will
grow on you. Most Romanians love to chat about their
country, its politics, problems and troubled history. Dont
be surprised if they ask you very direct questions. In all
cases, it is probably best to be diplomatic in response.
IB IS Romania
Tfianics uou for tfie veru
qood'2011 eoffaOoration a
n dis wa i tinqjo r you in
tfie New Year wit ft speciaf
offers,
attractivejiromotions and
dedicated services]
l&is Gara de Nortf
i(ns Pa fat it fParfamcntufui
ibis Constanta I&is Si(?in
wisfl tjOU
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Seasons Greetings!
.. & Hapjttj
New Year!
www.ibishotels.
Left Luggage
There are left luggage facilities at Gara de Nord, but no

luggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counter
opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from the
platforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per small bag per
24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office keeps
irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willynilly), so always make sure there will be someone on hand
to give you back your bag when you want to pick it up.
There is not currently any left luggage facility at either
BasiCs
Pay ONLINE and GET 20% discount

Health
Time & People
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than
adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a
lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei
notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner
is recommended. In an emergency you should call tel.
112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance. The best
state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta, C-3,
Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23 00. If your child
becomes ill, you should take him or her to the excellent
childrens emergency hospital, found at (B-4), B-dul
Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. A
list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 91.
Romania is in the E a s ter n Europ ea n Time Zone: GMT +

2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population
of Romania is 21,700,000, and of Bucharest 2,100,000
(both 2007 estimates).
Otopeni or Baneasa airport.
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea

to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving
license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas)
leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the
contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to
speak to your embassy.
Money
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100

bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5
bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian
money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash,
then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and
debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club
cards are less widely accepted.
Toilets
The only decent public toilets in town are those in the Piata
Universitatii underpass (which are free) and those at Gara
de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu).
1 = 4.35 lei, 1 = 5.03 lei

US$ = 3.22 lei
(As of November 30, 2011)
Taxi Tactics
Bucharests taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal
sense of equal opportunities: basically, when it comes
to ripping people off, they view anyone as fair game.
Locals, foreigners, young, old, male, female: anyone
who steps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well
and truly buggered. The important thing to remember
when getting into a taxi in this city is that there are two
kinds: those which are operated by a tried and trusted
taxi company (usually good) and independents (usually
bad). The problem is spotting the difference. By and
large, trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they are
emblazoned with the name and phone number of the
company they are associated with. To counter this,
however, the independents have also started to plaster
phone numbers over their cars, alongside copy-cat
logos that look cunningly like those of decent taxi
companies.
The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to
pay careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on the driver
and passenger door of all taxis. There should just now
be one single tarif displayed, and anything higher than
1 .69 lei per k ilo m e t re sh ould s t ar t alarm b e lls rin gin g. B e
extra careful around Gara de Nord, Baneasa Airport,
Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universitatii, Piata Unirii and in
Old Town, at the National Bank. To avoid any problems,
call one of the taxi companies listed below. If you are in a
hotel or restaurant, ask your concierge or waiter/waitress
to call a taxi for you.
If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi,
note down the drivers number and call his company to
report him.
Some trusted taxi companies:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort

021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, F l y T a x i 0 2 1 9 4 4 0 ,
Leone 021 9425, Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 0 2 1 9 4 4 4 ,
Mondial 021 9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As
021 9435, Taxi Total 021 9424. Most of these
companies have at least one operator who speaks
English.
From your home with Magic at Roberto's

Delight in the diversity of European tradition with the Festive
Lunches ai Roberto's
From 6ih December to 23rd December,
inspired from different European countries:
6/12 - Taste of Romania
7/12 - Taste of Italy
8/1? - Taste ol Germany
9/12 - Ta ste of F ra nee
13/12 - Taste of Italy
14/12 - Taste of Scandinavia
15/12 -Taate of Britain

16/12 - Taste of Franca
31/17 - Taste of Romania
32/13 - Taste oF Germany
23/12 - Taste oF Romania
Book your office lunch now! Buffet

price per person: 95 Ron
Joy and Happiness continuES in January

You won'I miss the lovely happenings alrar the lestiva season has come 10 an endRoberto's continues fabulous Italian brunches every Sunday beginning at 12:30
Life cooking stations
Chef's tabic
Animated kids' enterjamment room
Provincial Wine Packages*
For reservations please call 021 303 3777
ALhtfnvt: PudiH.f Ilil tun
10
arriVaL & transPort

Arriving in Bucharest
Gara de Nord Warning
By Air
None of Bucharests reputable hostels send people to

Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. Anyone who
approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest
train and have a backpack, you will be approached) is
trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your
intended destination (often by saying that the place you
want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel
that they wil re com m en d to yo u.Justig nore a nyth ing th ey
say and wave them away.
Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda), Bucharests main airpor t, is 17 k m n or th of t h e cit y o n th e D N1 . Op e ned in 1970
but recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient place.
After getting off the plane and easing your way through
passport control, youll find yourself in the baggage reclaim
area. Ignore all of the services on offer here
(especially the currency exchange desks: they do not
offer decent rates). Instead, grab your luggage (if it fails
to arrive go to the small office on the left hand of side of
the exit), and then head off through customs to Arrivals.
Here there are ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To
the right is a passage leading to the Departures terminal:
the passage is lined with car hire desks and a few shops,
including a chemist.
You should beware of, and ignore, the taxi drivers
who will besiege you as you make your way through Arrivals. Ignore them, even i f th ey have O f f i c i a l Ta xi badges.
Directly outside you will instead find a line up of shiny,
expensive but generally honest taxis. Their cabs will
display an Airport sign. We say generally because we
have heard of even these taxis charging over the odds.
A ride to the city centre with one of these taxis should
set you back around 130.00 lei (38). That is about three
times the cost of taking a normal Bucharest taxi, from a
company such as Cristaxi (tel. 021-9461) or Meridian
(tel. 021-9444), but remember that non-airport taxis are
not allowed to wait outside the terminal building or in the
car park. You can call one, but you will have to go and
meet it at the foot of the Arrivals access ramp. Instead, the
easiest way to get a cheap taxi is simply to walk through
to Departures (turn right as you exit baggage claim) and
take a regular taxi as it drops somebody off.
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops
underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals, and
leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata
Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes from
05:23 until 23:53. You need to purchase a Multiplu Card
before boarding (get it from the little booth which youll find
on your right hand side as you exit. The card itself costs
1.60 lei, and one journey into the city costs 3.50 lei. These
cards cannot be bought on board. There is also now a train
which, together with a minibus, connects the airport to the
main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at
irregular and infrequent intervals, however, and takes forever.
Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in the
Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.
Arriving at Baneasa Baneasa is much closer to the
city centre than Otopeni. There is an ATM in arrivals. Bus
routes 131 and 335 stop outside, both terminating at
Piata Romana. A Multiplu Card costing 1.60 lei must be
bought before boarding: there is a kiosk next to the bus
stop. Express bus 780 runs direct from Baneasa to Gara
de Nord, and the journey costs 3.50 lei. Taxis wait outside, but
make sure you take one belonging to a trusted company (see
Taxis, page 10). The fare to town should be around 35 lei.
By Train
Arriving at Gara de Nord If you arrive by train you will

arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues, tramps and thieves to contend with.
There are ATMs, shops, kiosks and a McDonalds. To get
to town take an honest taxi from outside (beware sharks)
or take the metro: you are just two stops away from Piata
Victoriei. To get to either of the airports from Gara de
Nord, take bus 780.
Even though the Bucharest public transport network is cheap,

extensive and reliable, taking a bus, trolleybus or tram can be
a headache due to the amount of people that cram on to the
blasted things.
Tickets
Paper tickets are now a thing of the past in Bucharest, so to

use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy a Multiplu
Card before climbing aboard, validating it in one of the orange
devices located all over the vehicle (watch how others do it
first). The cards can be bought from the little kiosks next to
major stops, and can be loaded with anything from two to ten
journeys (each journey costs 1.30 lei). You can also purchase
a day-ticket valid on all the citys buses, trolleybuses and
trams. It costs 8 lei.
If you are going to be staying a while in Bucharest and
plan on using public transport a lot, invest in an Activ Card, a
pre-paid electronic card. A bit like a London Transport Oyster
card, you can buy Activ cards at most RATB kiosks and load
them up with as much credit as you like, recharging them as
needed. (The Multiplu card cannot be reloaded with credit).
The Activ card itself is free, but on purchase you need to
load it with a minimum 25 lei. Unlike the Multiplu cards, Activ
Cards can be used on the metro.
Ticket inspectors (controlor) are ubiquitous, and if you are
caught without a ticket youll pay a fine of 50 lei. Pickpockets
are rife on all forms of public transport in Bucharest. On all
forms of public transport children under the age of seven
travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.
Buses & Trolleybuses
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by

bus or trolleybus, and most main roads in the city centre
benefit from three or four different routes. Most buses are
overcrowded, however, and travelling on them is a less than
pleasant experience. There is also now a vast night bus
network which operates a half-hourly service throughout the
night. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii.
Trams
A blessing to some and a curse to others, Bucharests trams

skirt the city centre, often blocking traffic as they trundle along
narrow roads. Unless you are visiting somewhere outside of
the city centre it is unlikely that you will use a tram.
Metro
Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from

the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out
to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and
Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan
working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city
centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south M2
line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas Victoriei,
Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, is
likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as cheap
arriVaL & transPort

Moving On
Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring
countries is not as easy, quick or inexpensive as you
would expect. Here is a rundown of the fastest and
cheapest ways of getting from capital to capital...
Bucharest - Belgrade
Tarom flies to Belgrade once a day, and the cost is 221
return. There is also an overnight train, leaving Bucharest
at 20:45 and arriving in Belgrade at 08:45 the next day.
A space in a six-person cuseta costs approximately
45. For train tickets the best place to go is Wasteels,
at Gara de Nord.
Bucharest - Budapest
There are several flights from Bucharest to Budapest
each day, operated by Tarom and Malev. Standard return
prices start at 192, although both airlines regularly have
offers on tickets costing a lot less.
There are also two trains connecting the two cities:
one leaves at 14:30 (arriving in Budapest at 04:40 the
next morning) while the other leaves at 19:00 and arrives
at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is
around 90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta (sharing
with up to five others) costs 53. The best place to buy
international train tickets in Bucharest is Wasteels, at
Gara de Nord.
Hertz
Hertz Economy Fleet
At bargain rate*!
Bucharest - Chisinau
If bought far enough in advance, return plane tickets
to Chisinau with Tarom can cost as little as 124. Air
Moldova also fly the same route, tickets costing slightly
more, around 144 return. However, note that if a single
ticket is all you are after, Air Moldova is the cheaper
option, a ticket costing as little as 75.
The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at
19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 08:52 the
next morning. Tickets cost from 41 (single).
Bucharest - Kyiv
Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of spare
cash or patience. Just one airline flies to Kyiv from
Bucharest, Aerosvit, and the price is a monopoly-tastic
US$376 return.
The train takes a whopping 26 hours and 38 minutes,
leaving Bucharest at 06:53 in the morning, arriving in Kyiv
at 09:31 the next day. Tickets cost from 63 (single).
Bucharest - Sofia
Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around 248, with
either Tarom or Bulgaria Air. There are two or three
flights per day depending on the day of the week.
There are two trains per day. A daytime train departs
Bucharest at 13:00 and arrives in Sofia at 22:25, while
the night train departs Bucharest at 23:15 and arrives
in Sofia at 09:25. First-class tickets cost 55 (single). For
the night train, sleeping wagon berths cost 99.
Much faster (and cheaper) is the daily coach linking
Bucharest and Sofia. It leaves the Double T coach stop
at the bottom of Calea Victoriei (C-6) each day at 16:00,
arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. Tickets cost
18 single (35 return) and can be bought in advance
from the Double T ticket office at Calea Victoriei 2 (next
to the coach stop).
The Werfz Economy Fleet offers from

time to time cars at reduced rental rates.
They are in excellent technical conditions
and fully comply with all safety regulations,
but they might have a somewhat higher
than Usual mileage on the counter and
some minor cosmetic imperfections.
www.hertz.eom.ro
+40(0)21 33 575 3L
reservations-^hertz.com.ro
11
12
arriVaL & transPort

Train Schedule
From Bucharest
Dep Arr.
IC 13:15 IR
08:25
IR
11:10
IC
13:15
ICN
14:30
ICN
19:00
To Bucharest
23:58
ARAD
IC 11:50 22:40
11:00 BRASOV IR 07:20 10:06
13:55 BRASOV ICN 08:27 11:00
15:44 BRASOV ICN 12:35 15:05
17:02 BRASOV IR 16:45 19:25
21:44 BRASOV IC 20:11 22:40
IC 13:15 21:34 CLUJ-NAPOCA IC 14:10 22:40
IC 07:20 09:53 CONSTANTA IC 07:20 09:52
IC 16:25 18:57 CONSTANTA IC 16:25 18:58
IC 15:45 18:34 CRAIOVA IC 12:40 16:48
IC 06:25 10:04 GALATI IC 04:50 08:31
IC 06:00 12:31
IASI
IC 05:00 11:38
IC 17:00 23:30
IASI
IC 16:30 23:10
IC 13:15 00:28 ORADEA IC 11:10 22:40
IR 19:15 09:23 SATU MARE IR 16:30 06:27
IR 09:50 15:25
SIBIU
IR 06:15 11:50
IC 13:15 18:08 SIGHISOARA IC 17:50 22:40 IR
11:10 20:08 TARGU MURES IR 12:55 21:20 IC
05:45 13:50 TIMISOARA IC 06:05 14:16 IC 15:45
23:58 TIMISOARA IC 15:35 23:44 Schedule valid
from December 12th, 2011. The full Romanian railway
timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.
as for the trams and busses: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two
trips; doua calatorii) or 10 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and
can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy tickets
valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei.
Trains
Given tha t Rom a nias roa ds are so b a d, its com for t in g to k
now that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said
that, many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest Brasov andBuch are st-Co nsta nta rou tesa re n owapp ro a ch
ing co m -pletion, and journey times are more or less back to
something approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours
to Brasov, slightly more to Constanta. Always try to get an
InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) train as they are the
fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock.
Regio (R-) trains (which until recently were known as Perso nal), a
r e s lo w a n d u s e m u c h older rolling stock. You will also see
trains designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which
stop at more stations than usual, and are more like
InterRegios. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap,
but are rising fast. An InterCity a d u lt single from Bucharest
to Brasov costs 78.50 lei.
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are
four per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau and Kyiv.
Euro
YOU RENT A LOT WORE THAU ACAR
C-iap^m airport
P'I 11-=10374 DO 40 67
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3jin-.ii.i iiroan
PK i'4\QlTi<JD4Q$iT
Get this feeling.
htp:''ttWN4L*cpLifcofti no
iln.^li--1
CONSTANTA. &UJ.
SIBIU TIWISOWiA
s-miN: fltcainjiiHeuroflCir.wni.r*
To buy train tickets, visit either the station, the CFR agency we
list opposite or buy online at www.cfr.ro/calatori. Your best
bet for the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the
station. In all cases, do not leave buying tickets to the last minute:
long queues could mean you miss your train. Tickets cannot be
purchased on the train, though in the worst case scenario you
can try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually.
Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia
10 - 14 , tel. (+ 4) 021 31 3 26 42 , w w w.cf r.r o. C FRs ad va
nce booking office. Reservations for all kinds of trains, up to onehour before the train departs. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30,
Sat 08:00 -12:00. Closed Sun.
Wasteels A - 4 , G ar a de Nord, tel. (+ 4) 02 1 317 03 70/021
300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reservations for all
types of trains, national and international. Help ful sta f f, western
currencies accepted. QO p e n 0 8: 0 0 - 1 9 : 0 0, S a t 0 8 : 0 0 - 1 4: 0 0 .
Closed Sun. A
arriVaL & transPort

Tourist Information
Info Tourist Point A-4, Inside Gara de Nord, tel. (+4)
0371 15 50 63, www.infotourist.ro. Bucharest now
has three Tourist Information Offices: at Gara de Nord,
Piata Universitate. and Piata Unirii. All are staffed by
friendly young locals ready to help as best they can.
They are stocked with leaflets, maps, brochures etc. and
of course: Bucharest In Your Pocket. Q Open
09:00-21:00. Also at Piata Universitatii Underpass,
Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, Closed Sun and
Piata Unirii Metro, Open 09:00-18:00.
Car rental
AAA Autorent Hertz
B-6, Bd. Natiunile Unite 3, bl. 109, Ground Floor, tel.

(+4) 021 335 75 33, fax 021 335 75 32, office@hertz.
com.ro, www.hertz.com.ro. Also at Henri Coanda Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 201 49 54, fax (+4) 021 021 201 49 55,
Robuc51@hertz.com.ro, Open 08:00-20:00; JW Marriott
Grand Hotel, tel. (+4) 021 403 29 56, fax (+4) 021 021 403
29 57, Robuc63@hertz.com.ro, Open 08:00-20:00; Athenee
Palace Hilton, tel./fax 021 303 37 44, robuc64@hertz.com.
ro, Open 08:30-17:30, Closed Sat, Sun; Crowne Plaza, tel.
(+4) 021 335 75 33.
Avis B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 9876/(+4)
021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, reservations@
avis.ro, www.avis.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat,
Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37,
Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00; Baneasa Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 230 24 82, Open 10:00-22:00.
COMPACT
13
Bavaria Rent Headoffice: Str. Horia, Closca si Crisan

17, Ilfov, tel. (+4) 0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22,
fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.
bavariarent.ro. Also at Baneasa International Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 200 62 63, Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:0.
Closed Sat; and Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34,
(+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.
ro, www.budgetro.ro. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7
(Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open
09:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International
Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00-20:00. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),
tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0730 09 39 85, fax
(+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.
cars4rent.ro. Good car rental from the people behind
the Hotel Charter, Q Open 24 hrs.
Compact Rent-a-Car A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7 ,
sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. 0744 63 82 92/021 312 98 57,
fax 021 312 99 82, office@compact-rentacar.ro, www.
compact-rentacar.ro. Europcar
D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97,
(+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@europcar.com.ro, www.europcar.ro. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40
57 and Baneasa Airport tel. (+4) 021 232 01 39. Service also
available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara.
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
021 9400, reservation@sixt.ro, www.sixt.ro.
prices (rwn C2Q/day
Dffice@compact-reMtacar.ro
RENT A CAR
www.comp act-renlacar.ro
THE BEST CAR RENTAL IN TOWN

ulrfa driven
December
January 2012
Office:
1, Nicolae Trtulescu Blvd..Block A7.
first entrance, Apartament 16
2011 -
14
CULtUre & eVents

Rock & Pop Concerts
04.12 SundayNana Mouskouri B-5, Str. Ion
carture^ti
carta,
....!
muzici,
dichig
V
NY TIMES:
"A fabulous bookslore chain
with ihe besi music collection In
the city [....] you II find brilliant
art
boohs, coffee-lsble glossies,
and
also the mosi relax I
Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). Child prodigy Nana

Mouskouri displayed exceptional musical talent from the age
of six, began singing lessons at 12 and after eight years at
the Athens Conservatoire, she won first prize at the Greek
Song Festival in 1958. And this was only the beginning. No
wonder she became one of the best-selling artists of all time
with a remarkable career spanning five decades that seems
to go on forever. This is her second appearance in Bucharest,
after the UNICEF Charity Gala in 2008. We hope it will not be
the last. Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 150 - 500 lei
from www.myticket.ro.
10.12 SaturdaySalvatore Adamo B-5, Str. Ion
Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). Salvatore Adamo is a

Belgian-Italian composer, singer and poetry lover. Victor Hugo
was one of his early influences, along with the more
contemporary French screenwriter Jacques Prevert,
author of Les Enfants du Paradis - one of the greatest
films of all time in the eyes of many people. His good taste in
choosing role models seemed to have helped him. In 1970,
his album, Petit bonheor, went gold and sold over one million
copies: the first of many to do so. Besides French, he can
sing in Bulgarian, Turkish, Japanese, Portuguese, Spanish,
Italian, and Chinese, so people all over the world are likely to
feel at home at this event. Music and lyrics that might just
be the answer to those who say you cant translate poetry.
Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 100 - 300 lei from
www. biletoo.ro, www.bilete.ro and www.myticket.ro.
20.12 TuesdayDemis Roussos B-5, Str. Ion
Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). Born and raised in

Alexandria, Egypt, this Greek singer and performer started
his career with the progressive rock band Aphrodites Child,
then continued as a solo pop/world music artist who topped
the charts in several countries with singles like Forever and
ever, My friend the wind, Goodbye, My Love and many
others. His shows in Romania are very popular, so its not
unexpected for him to send everyone here a message
like: I prepared many, many surprises for my beloved public
in Romania, surprises which I cant wait to reveal. Q
Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 100 - 300 lei from
www.biletoo.ro, www. myticket.ro and www.bilete.ro.
18.01 WednesdayArch Enemy Str. Cutitul de Argint
26 (Arenele Romane). This Swedish melodic death band
(formed in 1996) only really achieved widespread
recognition in 2000, when lead vocalist Johan Liiva was
replaced by Angela Gossow. Since then ArchEnemy has
released five successful albums, the latest of which,
Khaos Legions, will be promoted at this show. Q
Concert starts 19:00. Tickets 105 lei (1 December - 17th
January) -120 lei (18thJanuary) from www.eventim.ro.
25.01 WednesdayTarja Turunen B-5, Str. Ion
Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). Back in 2005 rock
music fans lost one of the greatest symphonic metal
bands that ever there was, but gained a unique lyrical
soprano musician. After leaving Nightwish, Tarja Turunen
continued singing as a solo artist and despite the controversial breakup with her band, she feels very proud of her
career with her former colleagues and wishes them all the
best. As for her new career we can only expect good things.
With her remarkably powerful and emotional voice she has
even managed to convince critics who dont like classical
voices that the metal songs she chooses to play suit her
unusually well. Q Concert starts 19:30. Tickets 75 - 195
lei from www.eventim.ro.
ugly almosphoric tea shop in

town."
CULtUre & eVents

Venues & Tickets
Arenele Romane Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul
Carol).
Ateneul Romn C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
315 68 75, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00.
Closed Mon.
Casa de Cultura a Studentilor Preoteasa A-5,
Calea Plevnei 61, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 42, www.
ccs.ro.
Diverta E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59 (Bucuresti Mall),
www.diverta.net. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Magazin Muzica B-4, Calea Victoriei 41-43, tel.
(+4) 021 314 56 08.
Romanian National Opera (Opera Nationala
Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4)
021 314 69 80. Q Box office open 09:00-13:00,
15:00-19:00.
Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, tel.
(+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open Tue-Fri
10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului), tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01. Sala Radio B-5, Str.
Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70/(+4) 021
303 12 97, www.srr.ro.
Special Events
05.12 MondayThe Spencers-Theatre of Illusion
B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). The idea of

magic doesnt only exist because people want to believe in it,
but also comes when mind-blowing illusions performed by the
best make you reconsider the possibility of the impossible.
The Spencers, acclaimed as the International Magicians of
the Year, will definitely capture the attention of even the most
skeptical. Therefore, everyone is invited to be entertained,
surprised and taken back to those moments in childhood
when everything seemed magical. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 80 - 230 lei from www.myticket.ro.
19.12 MondayVienna Classic Christmas B-5,
Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). Music and

dance of the highest order dont need special occasions to
gather people around, but somehow, being Christmas makes
this event the perfect way to start getting in the mood for
the holidays. With the Strauss Festival Orchestra Vienna
-an orchestra that doesnt need any introduction - and the
music of Johann Strauss, Franz Lehar, Emmerich Kalman
and Robert Stolz, you couldnt be wishing for anything more
for Christmas. Q Tickets 100 - 250 lei from
www.bilete. ro. Concert starts 19:30. Also on December
21st at The National Opera. Concert starts 19:30.
Tickets 50 - 200 lei from www.eventim.ro.
Mlk, C^~ Jjste,

D&NCAFE Brasserie
Open iaH fun D:M In man. axdaai\\ Square, 7JV*M SBwL maw:
07J6 222 4+i www darcala-braserfe.re
15
16
CULtUre & eVents

Christmas & New Years Eve
*-l-w
Alt lines intludod Breahfast not

included (optional E euro / person}
W3 tilnfrnHiK fadwrt (Imp Inn Ihc Nn) Ftul*w SljUnnl
Hi; * 40 3n ]3L BOJ. Fir > J7I [11401
Opera & Ballet

The Romanian National Opera (Opera Romana) is at B-5,
B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.
operanb.ro. It serves up a fairly familiar repertoire of classic
operas and ballets. There is usually a performance every
night (at 18:30), with child-oriented matinees at 11:30 at
weekends. Tickets cost from 5.30 - 63.60 lei, and can be
purchased online at www.bilet.ro or from the Operas own
box office, open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.
19.01 ThursdayThe Nutcracker-Ballet On Ice
B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). The best

ballet on ice can only come from the pioneers of this form of
art and sport combined, so the show of The Saint Petersburg
State Ballet on Ice should include everything you expect and
more. Their wonderful stories and unique performances
have charmed us before, as they have everywhere they have
performed around the world. Its an honour for us to have
them back and as we assume tickets will sell fast, you best
get yours now. Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 50 - 300
lei from www.bilete.ro and www.myticket.ro.
Christmas (Crciun in Romanian) is - despite the country being Orthodox - celebrated on December 25. It is
generally considered to be the second most important
religious Romanian holiday, surpassed only by Easter
(which, in these parts, is a far bigger deal).
That said, Romanians probably eat more at Christmas than at any other time of the year, and huge, hearty
dishes - often prepared days in advance - are eaten
throughout the day and night. The Romanian Christmas
meal centres on pork, which in the countryside will be
a porker sacrificed in the traditional way (by having its
throat cut in early December after months of fattening
up). Every part of the pig is used, from the meat (roasted)
to the organs (used to make drob and piftie). Even the
ears and the trotters are often fried as a snack. The
thick skin of the pig is also often fried and served up
as an appetiser. Minced pork is used to make sarmale
(stuffed cabbage rolls): a must at Christmas, while dessert will consist of cozonac, a sweetbread with sultanas,
raisins, chocolate or Turkish delight. Lighter, Italian-style
pannetones are also increasingly popular.
Romanians tend to spend Christmas at home, with
family. Those (many) people from the provinces who live
in Bucharest will head off to the family home for Christmas,
which can make the capital feel eerily empty on Christmas
and Boxing Day. They return, however, for the biggest
party of the year: New Years Eve. While many restaurants
close on Christmas Day, the big five-star hotels have become famous for their extravagant Christmas Brunches
and Christmas Dinners. All of the citys major hotels will
be putting on some kind of Christmas event: many will
have festive brunches on the Sundays leading up to the
big day too. Incredibly popular, you are advised to book
in advance.
Finding something to do or somewhere to go on New
Years Eve in Bucharest is not going to be a problem.
Almost all of the venues listed in this guide will be holding special events, usually with food and drink included,
though note that most will require you buy a ticket in advance: the chances of being able to simply turn up at your
chosen location on the night will be few and far between.
The most upmarket events are - as with Christmas - at
the big hotels, who lay on a number of amazing parties
and balls. Some of the hotels have offers that include a
cut-price room, so you do not even have to worry about
getting home.
If you want to enjoy New Years Eve on the streets
with revelling locals, head for Piata Constitutiei (in front
of Casa Poporului). From around 21:00 you can expect a
host of local bands performing live, a fireworks display
at midnight and thousands of little idiots setting off
firecrackers (known locally as petarde) Be brave.
Adventure Park
Parc Aventura Cartier Noua, Zona lac Noua, Brasov,
tel. (+4) 0755 08 55 55, www.parc-aventura.ro. Set in
a forest on the outskirts of Brasov, this place is the answer
to your what shall we do with the kids today prayers. There
are trees to climb, daredevil swings and slides, tunnels and
assault courses. Open all year round, the turn-off is just
before Metro if you are arriving from Bucharest. Q
Open 10:00-21:00. Admission (3hrs) adults 37 lei,
students 32 lei, children 8-11 27 lei, children 4-7 21
lei.
HOLIDAY MAGIC
AT THE WINTER BRUNCHES
Snow, delicious treats find lois oi" presents. This is ihc most festive time of the year and We're
celehraliim il uilli lour spec in I limn Hies:
Traditional Fish Brunch, Corso Brasserie December

II*, 175 ROX/person
Christmas Brunch, Puriuna Hal I mum, 21"1 flour December
25*, 190 RUN/pcrson
New Year's Brunch, Oorsu Brasserie January 1",
175 RON/prrson
Russian Hi .mi h. Corto Brasserie January
221, 175 RON/pirson
Frcr parking. Kids' room Willi e [He Mai run cut. Free fur kid* under (i. Half price fur kids under 12.
l-'nr wrirrvnhinni, plrmr rnnljid îlnu Mih.il.irhr, nui

Kni! jUTjal Mjrj^r. at OJJO 644 807 ur liy rmjil,
4) liliiu.niiluilrwlirîiitrrciimli.ri)
INTERCONTINENTAL.
In over 170 local ion* *crnH the S(cbr. including HONG KONG LONDON NEW YORK PARIS
18
sKi roMania
Whisper it, but this could be the season that Romania finally becomes a decent skiing destination. The countrys two biggest
resorts - Poiana Brasov and Sinaia - have both spent big money over the past year investing in new lifts and slopes. At
Poiana, the total amount of pistes will almost double from a paltry 13km to (a still modest) 23km, while at Sinaia, a new chairlift
opened at the end of last season will serve a new area of ski runs, creating the most extensive ski resort in the country.
Sinaia
The closest ski resort to Bucharest is Sinaia (alt. 880 metres) less than two hours on the train (even less by car, if the traffic is not too
bad) from the capital.
Once a quiet monastery settlement in the Prahova Valley, Sinaia became a mountain retreat and resort town with the
construction of King Carol Is summer residence Peles Castle in the 1880s. A direct railway connection to Bucharest was
subsequently built allowing courtiers easy access to the palace, and the resort quickly became the summer retreat of choice for
the Romanian capitals wealthy. A casino was built in 1912, by which time Sinaia was so smart it had become a stop on the Orient
Expresss route to Istanbul.
As such, there is much to do and see in Sinaia even if downhill skiing never crosses your mind, and is the best choice of
Romanian mountain destination for groups which include non-skiers.
Sinaia Skiing
First things first: when the weather is good, there snow is in abundance and there are no queues for the lifts, skiing in Sinaia is
excellent, and the best in Romania by a long way. Unfortunately, the last time Sinaia enjoyed such blissful conditions was around
1963. (We only half jest). Most of Sinaias skiing is done at altitude, making it the most snow-sure of the Prahova Valley resorts.
Even when the other resorts lack snow, there can often still be plenty of the white stuff up on Sinaias highest slopes.
Sinaias skiing is reached either by an old, two-stage cable car, or a newer gondola. The cable car station is behind the Montana
hotel, while the gondola lift departs a little further
up (it is a bit of a trek if you are walking, especially with skis). Both the gondola and the cable car tip out at 1400 metres, where
there is a hotel and a couple of bars and ski-rental shacks. From there, you can take the second stage of the cable car up to
2000 metres, or a four man chair-lift. Once up at the top, there are two large, relatively easy and wide open ski areas: Valea
Dorului and Valea Soarelui. There are also a number of routes back down to Cota 1400: these are some of the toughest slopes
in the country. If there is enough snow, there is a route down to the resort from Cota 1400, although it does involve a fair bit of
poling in certain places.
The biggest problem at Sinaia remains the fact that no fewer than three different companies operate the cable cars, gondolas
and chairlifts, and there is therefore no ski pass covering the whole resort. If you intend to ski all the resorts slopes, you will
need to buy two ski passes. One at the gondola or cable car, and another at the chairlifts. Madness, madness, and a
microcosm of the problems Romania still faces before it can call itself a top tourist destination. Lift prices had not been
announced as went to press, but expect to pay at least 150 lei for a days skiing. There is a decent website dedicated to skiing in
Sinaia, www.ski-sinaia.ro.
Sinaia Sights
Yo u simply cant visit Sinaia without seeing Castle Peles. Perched upon a rolling hill and set against the stark beauty of the
Carpathian mountains, this magnificent castle appears to be extracted directly from a Grimm Brothers fairy tale. The first king of
Romania, Carol I, visited Sinaia in 1866 to stay at the monastery, and fell in love with the place. Seven years
sKi roMania
later he bought the grounds and had Wilhelm Doderer, a German architect, build the palace in 1873 as a retreat from the
summer heat in Bucharest. After the work was done in 1883,
Carol immediately ordered an expansion to be built, finished
in 1914. Visitors can view a large collection of European arms
from the past five centuries and explore exotic rooms, decorated by artists from all over Europe. Some rooms are meant
to be replicas of Turkish and Moorish castle halls, others are
simply decorated in German Neo-Renaissance style. Tour
guides are quick to point out that Peles was the first castle in
Europe to have both electricity and central heating.
Just up the road is Pelisor Castle (Little Peles), built
between 1899 1902 and inhabited by Ferdinand, King
Carols cousin, and his wife Marie. Marie had her own idea
about how to decorate castles, and set to design Pelisors
interior in a simple Art Deco style. Especially impressive is the
Golden Room, where gold leaves cover the walls and ceiling.
Both Peles and Pelisor are open Wednesday 11:00-17:00,
and Thursday-Sunday 09:00-17:00. Two tours of Peles are
available, one costing 50 lei for adults, 12.50 lei for children,
and a longer tour costing 70 lei for adults, 17.50 lei for children.
To visit Pelisor costs an extra 20 lei for adults, 5 lei for children.
Note that the last tour of Peles begins at 15:00. After that
you will only be admitted to the ground floor.
The main attraction of Sinaias raison detre, the 17th
century monastery (named after the biblical Mount Sinai)
is the old church inside the monastery walls, built between
1690 1695. The frescoes in the portal depicting Judgement Day are stunning. On the left, happy believers wait in line
to enter paradise, while to the right little devils drag sinners
into a river of fire leading to the mouth of a dragon. In the far
corner of the monastery, you can enter the Paraclis, a chapel
once used by monks for daily services. The frescoes here
are more than 300 years old, and the sign on the iconostasis
kindly requests visitors not to scratch their names into the
valuable walls as you will see, some people just couldnt
resist the temptation. Next to the old part of the monastery is
the bigger new church, built by monks under the supervision
of Abbot Iosaf from 1842-1846. It is a perfect example of
Romanian religious architecture which blends certain stylistic
elements from Moldavia and Wallachia. This amazing house
of worship displays ornately carved oak objects and beautiful
Neo-Byzantine gold leaf murals.
A small museum and a shop which sells religious icons
and literature are also open to the public, although during
winter they keep irregular hours. Best to come between
10:00-15:00 and hope for the best.
Busteni
Busteni (alt. 900 metres) is a town similar in size to Sinaia,

but lacking most of its better-known rivals charm. As a ski
resort, it has little to offer asides from one of the most modern
chair-lifts in the country, and a relatively long, snow-sure slope
to accompany it. The problem is that there is just the one
slope, which, as you might expect, can get rather crowded.
Incredibly, prices are amongst the highest in the country. Last
season (this seasons prices had yet to be announced as we
went to press) a pass valid for 10 rides on the chairlift cost
150 lei. A lift pass valid for a days unlimited access to the
slope cost a whopping 250 lei.
There is also a cable car at Busteni, which, while it does
not offer access to any skiing, does climb high into the Bucegi
mountains. In summer a number of hiking routes begin from
here, and close to the top station is The Sphinx: a natural
outcrop of rock that bears an uncanny resemblance to the
the Great Sphinx at Giza.
The enormous cross close by (on top of the Caraiman
peak, and visible from the valley below) was built from 1926-8
in honour of those soldiers who died defending the railway
line from the Austrian and Hungarian armies in World War I.

Almost 100 feet (30 metres) high the cross is the largest of
its kind in Europe.
Azuga
Busteni becomes more attractive as a ski destination

when you find out that the resorts lift passes can also
be used at Azuga, a further eight kilometres up the road.
Often overlooked when considering possible Romanian
skiing destinations, Azuga (alt. 950 meters) in fact is a
decent choice for a day on the slopes, and offers two of
the longest ski runs in the country (indeed one, Sorica, is
said to be the longest piste in the country). Granted, it is
not the most extensive ski resort in the world, but the fast
gondola lift keeps queues to a minimum, and the ample
nursery areas mean that beginners can stay away from the
more demanding slopes.
Away from the slopes Azuga offers wine lovers a treat
in the form of the Rhein Wine Cellars, well worth a visit.
Built in 1892, the Rhein Cellar was the official wine supplier
of Romanias Royal Court, and tours of the cellars (located
both above and below ground) cost 18 lei per person, and
the price includes wine for tasting. The cellars are open
09:00-17:00.
Predeal
Much like Azuga, Predeal offers limited skiing but is a good

choice for a day trip: the resort is easily reached from Bucharest both by car and by train. There are plenty of good places
to eat too: two of our favourite restaurants in Romania are in
Predeal: Cabana Vanatorilor and Casa Romaneasca. Situated at an altitude of 1107 metres, it is officially the highest
town in Romania.
There are three main slopes at Predeal, all reached by
a relatively new four-man chair lift. Two of the runs are fairly
easy, while one, which passes under the chairlift, is far more
difficult. There are limited nursery areas at Predeal, which
means that the bottom slopes can get very crowded, especially at weekends and holidays. In our experience, we have
always found the slopes at Predeal to be the best groomed
in the country, often meaning that the snow lasts longer here
than elsewhere. Lift passes last season cost 94 lei MondayFriday, 143 lei Saturday-Sunday.
19
20
sKi roMania
Poiana Brasov
The best known Romanian ski resort, a regular in Britains winter holiday brochures for three decades. Once regarded as a cheap,
good value destination for beginners, fierce price rises over the past few years have seen Poiana (alt. 1030 metres) transform into a
relatively expensive place to ski, characterised by long lift queues, poor snow conditions and crowded pistes. This year, however, Poiana
Brasov has at last seen some serious investment in its skiing infrastructure, and things look set to change for the better. New pistes
have been created and existing ones extended, while two new chair lifts should help shorten some of the peak-time queues and
ease congestion on the busy slopes. The resorts administrators have also invested in snow making equipment and pistemaintenance machines in order to keep the pistes in better shape.
Poiana Brasov Skiing
Once the new slopes and lifts open (planned for mid-December), then there will be 23km of pistes in Poiana, enough to keep a
good skier happy for a day or two at a time. Though none of the runs are particularly difficult (the one black run, Lupului, will pose
no major problems to a decent skier) some are quite steep, and given that the snow at Poiana can often be very icy, skiing here
can sometimes offer something of a challenge. It is beginners who have the best of things at Poiana however, with a large wide
nursery slope, and a long easy blue run that descends from the very top of the resort to the bottom. There are also a couple of
excellent ski schools. To watch out for at Poiana are the dreaded snowboarders, many of whom clearly dont know what they are
doing and yet who eschew instruction. While snowboarders are a problem in all of the worlds ski resorts, the narrowness of the
slopes at Poiana (almost all of which are through the trees) makes snowboarders doubly hazardous here.
Lift passes remain relatively expensive given the limited skiing (around 135 lei per day: prices for this season had yet to be
announced as we went to press). You can buy them at
the gondola station or at the cable car. Please note that while we would have loved to have printed a map showing the new lifts and
pistes at Poiana Brasov, as we went to press such a thing did not yet exist.
Ski Hire
In all of the Prahova Valley resorts there is no shortage of places to hire skis and boots, but do note that the standard of
equipment can vary widely, as can the cost. As a guide, a decent pair of newish skis and boots should cost around 50 lei per
day to hire. Regardless of where you hire skis, you will need to leave ID (passport, driving license) as a deposit. No ID, no skis.
Getting to the Mountains
The main road to all of the ski resorts is impossibly busy at weekends, and can be blocked for hours on end during holiday periods. At
Busteni - where the road passes through the town - there is a bottleneck which can cause tailbacks as far as Comarnic in one
direction, and Predeal in the other. If travelling at busy times you really should therefore think about taking the train. All trains from
Bucharest to Brasov stop at Sinaia, Azuga and Predeal. Most also stop at Busteni.
Snow
Given their low altitude, it is no surprise that Romanias ski resorts do not have the best of snow records. The only real snowsure skiing is at the top of Sinaia in the Valea Dorului and Valea Soarelui, though even here high winds can often close the cable cars
and gondola, preventing access. There should usually be enough snow in all the resorts from December until the end of March
(sometimes in Sinaia you can ski in to May), but recent years have been poor. While most of the resorts have a couple of slopes
which have snow-making machines, these only cover beginner and nursery slopes and if they are all thats available, they become
horribly crowded. To find out what snow conditions are like, the best source is probably www.snowforecast.com.
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22
roManias reVoLUtion
real power rested in the hands of Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej,
General Secretary of the Romanian Workers (Communist)
Party. Dej was a barely literate former railway worker who
had led strikes on the Romanian railways in the 1930s. He
was the leader of a group of communists who had remained
in Romania during the war, and which by the late 1940s had
defeated another group of communists, led by Ana Pauker,
who had spent the war in Moscow. By 1954, Dejs only rival for
power was the moderate and popular Lucreiu Patracanu,
who supported a policy of de-Stalinization. Dej had him shot
as a traitor and his supporters arrested.
Life for most people under Dej was tough: the need
to pour resources into industrialization meant that the
production of consumer goods was neglected, and there
were perennial shortages. The rights of workers were nonexistent, and conditions in factories were generally awful. In
the countryside collectivization of agriculture had reduced
most farmers to a status little better than slaves, though
in some remote parts of the country (including parts of the
Apuseni and Maramure) opposition to collectivization had
been so strong that local party cadres simply gave up trying
to implement it.
As you may well remember from watching the news 20-odd
years ago, Romanias revolution of 1989 was a very big deal
indeed. Coming at the end of a turbulent autumn, in which the
vast majority of the Soviet satelite states of Eastern Europe
had by and large peacefully thrown off one-party communist
rule, Romanias revolution was the bloodiest of them all. Yet
to this day, 22 years on, nobody has been brought to justice for
the deaths of the more than 1000 people killed in December
1989. That the vast majority were killed after Nicolae Ceausescu had himself been executed is one reason why.
So those of you who might be expecting mass celebrations in Bucharest along the lines of those held in Berlin
each year to celebrate the fall of the Berlin Wall will be disappointed. While small-scale memorial services are held in
Bucharests Piata Universitatii and Revolutiei on December
21st each year, there is little political (or even, truth be told,
public) will for anything bigger. Even the 20th anniversary in
2009 passed with little more than indifference. That large,
showy events might be attended by those directly responsible for the killing is a prospect few are happy with. Better
then, to do little or nothing. In all likeliness therefore, the 30th
anniversary of the revolution will pass by without much fanfare
too, as will the 40th... Then, perhaps, in 30 years time, when
Romania celebrates 50 years since the fall of communism, the
full, true story of Romanias revolution will finally be ready to be
told. Heres hoping. For the time being, you will have to make do
with our take on events. First, some history.
Communist Romania
As with the majority of central and eastern European nations

that found themselves under Red Army occupation in 1945,
it was the Soviet Union that decided the countrys fate.
The Soviets installed Petru Groza as prime minister in
March 1945, despite both Grozas Ploughmens Front and
the Romanian Communist Party performing poorly in elections - and through him the Soviets controlled the Interior
Ministry (and with it the army and security apparatus), and
the Justice Ministry, and placed its officials in high ranking
positions in all other ministries.
The faade of democracy was preserved until the summer of 1947, when the pre-war political parties, who had
been harassed and persecuted since 1945, were all banned,
and its leaders imprisoned at a notorious prison at Sighetul
Marmaiei, in the north of Romania. King Michael was given
an ultimatum in December 1947: exile or arrest. He chose
exile, and abdicated on December 30.
Petru Groza remained Prime Minister until 1953, though
Nicolae Ceausescu
Dej died in 1965, just two months before the Ninth Congress
of the Romanian Communist Party. The keynote address
of the congress was delivered by the relatively youthful (he
was 47) Nicolae Ceausescu, who, to the astonishment of
his audience, denounced the abuses of the Dej years. The
Congress confirmed Ceausescu as General Secretary of
the party, and most delegates left full of promises of a more
liberal and open society.
Initially their hopes were fulfilled. American films were
again shown in cinemas, foreign books translated and
foreign plays staged. Russian disappeared from the school
curriculum, replaced with French. In 1968 Ceausescu pulled
off a political masterstroke by memorably condemning the
Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia, a move that secured
him superstar status at home, in Washington, in Paris and
in London.
His reward was billions of dollars in foreign loans, which
were spent on consumer goods and on industrialization.
Yet these loans were taken at a time when the country was
already heavily in debt, and its capacity to repay its debts
had been based on overly-optimistic export projections.
When exports failed to meet desired levels, the country
was in trouble. By 1981 the countrys external debt reached
$10.2 billion. In 1967 it had been $3.6 billion.
Yet astonishingly, in December 1982 Ceausescu
announced that Romania would repay its entire foreign
debt by 1990, in order to preserve the countrys independence. To achieve this goal, however, meant exporting almost everything produced in Romania, resulting
in a sharp drop in living standards (which were none
too clever anyhow). At the beginning of 1983 rationing
was introduced in some provinces for flour, bread, sugar
and milk. By the end of the year only the capital was
free of rationing. Other restrictions were placed on the
consumption of petrol, electricity (there were constant
power outages throughout the 1980s) and gas. From
1986 onwards many homes - even in the capital - went
unheated in winter.
By 1989 Romania was a failed country. It had a leader
and a government, but little else. Schools closed early in
winter for a lack of heating, nobody worked as people spent
all day queuing for basic foodstuffs, and a rampant black
market saw speculators and corrupt officials make small
fortunes.
Yet even as late as November 1989, when the Commu-
roManias reVoLUtion
23
After the Revolution

Dup Revoluie (After the Revolution) is a f ilm by La urenti u
Calciu that captures the mood on Bucharests streets in
the immediate aftermath of 1989s revolution.
The film very loosely tells the story of the first six months
of 1990, from the announcement on February 6 by the
National Salvation Front (FSN) that it would field candidates
in presidential and parliamentary elections (having initially
said, in the immediate aftermath of the revolution, that it
would stay out of politics) to the mineriada of June 13-15,
when brutal miners from the Jiu Valley violently put down
student protests against the FSN government.
Though touted as a documentary, it is more a document than documentary per se. An endlessly fascinating,
intriguing, disturbing and genuinely unique document. The
footage of the public arguments taking place in Piata Universitatii the day after opposition supporters had organised
the first major protest against the FSN is priceless. It shows
how the country was split in two: between naive, scared
people who believed in the nu vindem ara (we will not
sell the country) nonsense that the FSN was spouting at
the time, and more progressive revolutionaries who actually
wanted to take the country forward.
Having less than a month beforehand been citizens in
the most dictatorial regime in Europe, it is incredible to
hear people say things like no other parties except the
FSN should be allowed, or if there has to be some
opposition, the people who come back from abroad
shouldnt be allowed in it.
The people from abroad were, specifically, Ion Raiu
and Radu Cmpeanu, who are accused of not having
protested like us against communism. Both stood in the
presidential election of May 1990 against Ion Iliescu.
Here ignorance plays its part: Raiu in fact protested
more than most against Romanian communism, and did
so for decades. He was arrested a number of times, most
famously outside Claridges, in London, in 1978, where
inside that famous hotel Nicolae Ceausescu was hosting
a banquet for HM Queen Elizabeth II. In turn, Cmpeanu
spent years in Romanias gulag before being exiled to
Paris.
Two further things will strike you watching the film:
1. Ion Iliescu (at the time the leader of the FSN) is an
arrogant man (like you didnt know that already). The press
conference at which he defends the FSNs decision to field
candidates in the elections is a masterclass in batting away
difficult questions with a smile.
2. The elections of 1990 (both parliamentary and
presidential) were marked by the kind of irregular activities
usually the preserve of places like Zimbabwe and Belarus.
The report delivered by the head of the foreign observers
at the end of the film is not just damning, its shocking. The
observer delivering the report (whose name escaped us)
is clearly astonished at what has gone on.
Too much of the content of this film has been forgotten,
which is why we cant help but recommend it. Even if this
kind of footage exists elsewhere, we doubt anyone will ever
broadcast it. You can buy a copy of Dup Revoluie at
the films website, www.productive.ro.
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PS: There is a marvelous diversion midway through the

film: a scene in the foreign press centre, when we get
to see Chris Walker, of The Times, phone in his handwritten report for the next days paper (in the days when
journalists actually had to work for a living). Another journo
is seen using a typewriter, yet another a telex machine.
Remember those?
24
roManias reVoLUtion
nist Party held its four-yearly congress, electing Ceauescu

as president for another four-year term, there was no sign
that the regime was in any trouble. As communist regimes
crumbled all over Eastern Europe, Ceauescu held on.
Timisoara
Always a city whose people were better informed than the

rest of the country (they could watch Yugoslav television) the
population of Timisoara staged their first demonstration on
December 16, initially in protest at the demotion and transfer
(for openly opposing the regime) of a popular local Hungarian
priest, Laszlo Tokes.
Quickly however, the demonstrations became political,
and spread. On December 17 tens of thousands gathered in
front of the citys Orthodox Cathedral. Ceausescu ordered
the army to fire on the protestors, which it did. The protestors dispersed and the next day the city was calm, with
soldiers and secret policemen everywhere; Ceausescu
proceeded with a planned two-day state visit to Iran.
The Revolution in Bucharest
Ceauescu returned from Iran on December 20, and the

next day a rally in Bucharest was organized to reassure the
population that he was still in control. He wasnt.
On the morning of December 21, 1989, the large crowd
brought to Piaa Revoluiei to dutifully cheer the Romanian
leader in the time-honoured way in fact jeered him.
Whats more, the rally was being shown on live television.
Ceausescus face when he realises he is actually being booed
is astonishing, and has been called his Dorothy Moment
in reference to the scene at the end of The Wizard of Oz
when the facade of a great, mysterious power is torn down
to reveal nothing more than a frail old man
The rally then quickly became a riot, and the square was
soon out of control. The crowd was eventually dispersed by
gunfire, though to this day it is unclear if the gunfire was
ordered by organs of the Ceausescu regime, or by the Ion
Iliescu group of former communist nomenklature - known
as the National Salvation Front (FSN) - that was about to
sieze power. It may also have simply been the result of
mass confusion, with many young army conscripts simply
not knowing what was going on.
Later on the night of December 21, an angry, antiCeausescu crowd assembled in Piaa Universitii, where it
stayed until dawn of December 22, before again being fired
upon, and, as morning broke, dispersed: there were hundreds
of arrests.
During the night however the army had abandoned
Ceausescu (following the mysterious death of Vasile Milea,
the armys commander-in-chief), and the pendulum swung

decisively.
The revolutionaries regrouped in Piaa Revoluiei, Piata
Universitatii and at the headquarters of Romanian television. A
fierce battle was fought here, but by the evening of December
22 the revolutionaries - with army assistance - had gained
control of the television building. That night the poet Mircea
Dinescu made the first speech on free Romanian television,
ending with the immortal words Dictatorul a fugit. Am nvins!
Am nvins! (The dictator has gone. Weve won! Weve
won!)
By this stage Ceausescu and his entourage had indeed
gone, fleeing in a helicopter from the top of the building of
the Communist Partys Central Committee as the angry mob
entered below. They were caught a few hours later, and shot
on Christmas Day, 1989.
The power vacuum he left was quickly filled, with Ion
Iliescu, a one-time loyal lieutenant of Ceausescu and life-long
socialist forming a provisional government. It is important to
note here that although this new government was allegedly
an independent body representative of every sector of
Romanian society, Iliescu refused to allow any surviving
members of Romanias pre World War II governments join.
Important figures - including Corneliu Coposu, a leading
liberal politician of the 1930s and 1940s who had served
time in Romanias brutal communist prisons - were prevented
from entering the Central Committee building, where various
factions were trying to form provisional governments. (A bust
of Coposu now stands opposite the building, on the other
side of the road in front of the Cretulescu Church. See page
26).
The Mineriada
Iliescus new regime initially stated that it would be nothing

more than a transitional government. Late in January 1990
however, Iliescu announced he would stand for election as
president, and that the FSN would field candidates for parliament. Given that Iliescu and the FSN had complete control of
every facet of government, including a media-monopoly, their
crushing victory in elections (held in April 1990) was hardly
surprising. Unhappy with what they viewed as one dictatorship replacing another, large numbers of protesters began
demonstrating in Piata Universitii early in May.
Led by students from Bucharest University the demonstrators soon occupied the entire square, declaring that it
was the only part of Romania genuinely free of communism.
As support for the protests grew, it became an embarrassment to Iliescu and his regime.
On June 13, 1990, Iliescu ordered miners from the Jiu
Valley to Bucharest to brutally put down the revolt, and to
reoccupy the square in the name of the revolution.
Over the next three days, in what became known as
the Mineriada, the miners killed more than 100 people.
Iliescu then went on television to thank the miners for their
revolutionary zeal and spirit.
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"I LAMB
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26
CaLea ViCtoriei
No street in Bucharest has a history to match that of Calea
Victoriei, the citys most famous thoroughfare which runs
- much as it has for more than three centuries - from Piata
Victoriei in the n or th of th e ci ty all th e way d own to Piata Na
-tiunilor Unite a nd the Da mbovita river. Lin ed with fine h ou se
s, palaces, churches, hotels, upmarket shops and museums,
it remains perhaps the most prestigious address in the city.
Calea Victoriei was first opened in 1692, originally part of
the route from the Old Court (Curtea Veche, see page 74) to
Mogosoaia, where Constantin Brancoveanu, that great ruler of
these parts who did so much to modernise the country during
his long and distinguished reign - had his main palace. The street
has had many names over the years, including Ulita Sarindar,
Drumul Brasovului and Drumul Mogosoaia - its name until
1878 when it became Calea Victoriei in honour of victories recently won by Romanian armies fighting to preserve the countrys
newly won independence from the Ottoman Empire.
The stre et - originally c overe d with lo gs, as was th e norm in
those days - was fully paved by 1825, one of the first in the city
(Strada Franceza, i n O ld Tow n , c lo s e r t o t h e O ld C o u r t , w a s in
fact the first). There followed a blossoming of construction as
the street became a magnet for wealthy merchants who built
homes along its length, keen to be spared the ignominies of
th e mu d stre ets wh ic h p ersisted els ewh ere. Th ou gh much h
as changed since, and not a few majestic buildings have
fallen victim to earthquake, war, socialist planning or
modernisation, many of the buildings which went up along
Calea Victoriei in the first part of the 19th century
remain.
Orientation: modern Calea Victoriei can be split more
or less neatly into two sections: the residential northern
part, noted mainly for its fine houses and palaces and the
more commercial southern part. To start a walk of the
full length of the street at the northern end (which we
recommend, as you can then end up by relaxing in one
of the cafes of Old Town), simply take the metro to Piata
Victoriei.
Piata Victoriei to Calea Grivitei
For all its history, Calea Victoriei does not start well. Piata
V ic toriei is an aw fu l pla ce, a ll ca rs a n d t r a f fic, smoke an d d ust.
The modernist building on the far side is the Palatul din Piata
Victoriei, home today of the Romanian government (though
when it was built in the 1930s it was the Foreign Ministry). On
the other side of the square is the excellent Grigore Antipa
Museum of Natural History, built in 1906 (see page 68).
Elsewhere, Piata Victoriei is a socialist nightmare, with its
more recently built office blocks barely more attractive than
those built before 1989.
Heading off from here along Calea Victoriei itself, the first
building of any real interest is the Palatul Cantacuzino at
No. 141, usually referred to (mistakenly) as the Casa Enescu.
The building does house the Romanian Museum of Music
Shopping on Calea Victoriei

Whilethem ass eshead for Bu cha rests malls,th ose with oo
d -les of cash head for the upmarket shops on Calea
Victoriei.
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei
45, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro.QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Belstaff B-4, Str. Calea Victoriei 136, tel. (+4) 021 318
95 41, www.belstaff.com. Bags, of the exclusive kind.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Cellini C-5, Calea Victoriei 102-108, tel. (+4) 031 432
90 41, www.cellini.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Emporio Armani C-5, Calea Victoriei 60-64, tel. (+4)
021 310 81 34, www.emporioarmani.com. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Ermenegildo Zegna B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel.
(+4) 021 316 89 75, www.zegna.com. Q Open
10:00
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00 (December),
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00 (Januar y)
Gerard Darel B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, www.gerarddarel.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Gucci C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 0734 45 05 50/
(+4) 0727 73 53 36, www.gucci.com. QOpen 10:00
-21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Helvetansa B-4, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021
226 22 02, www.helvetansa.ro.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-5) B-dul Balcescu
25 and (B-4) Calea Victoriei 88.
Hugo Boss B-4, Calea Victoriei 145, tel. (+4) 021 311 88
97, www.hugoboss.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
-18:00 (December), 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun (Januar y).
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, tel.
(+4) 021 313 50 35.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
-19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Max Mara C-5, Calea Victoriei 122A, tel. (+4) 021 316
89 77, www.maxmara.com.Q Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. (December), 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. (Januar y)
Micri Gold C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel. (+4) 021 312 00
57, www.micrigold.ro.QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Pal Zileri C-5, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 312
72 01, www.palzileri.com. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00 (December), 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun (Januar y).
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4) 021
313 14 65, www.romartizana.com.ro.QOpen 10:00
-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Sepala by Mihaela Glavan C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin
9, tel. (+4) 0722 52 52 72, www.sepala.ro.QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Victoria 46 Mall C-5, Calea Victoriei 46, tel. (+4) 021
315 22 93, www.victoria46.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Frey Wille
Frey Wille C-5, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 031 620 13
54, www.frey-wille.com. Frey Wille boutiques are found in the
most exclusi ve locations around the world, including Bucharests very own street of style and luxury, Calea Victoriei. Expect
to find only the finest jewellery and accessories here, and there
is a good selection for both men and women. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00
(Decemb er), 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun
(Januar y)
CaLea ViCtoriei
27
(which carries the name of George Enescu, the countrys finest composer) but - contrary to popular belief, Enescu never lived
here, although there is a connection. The vaguely baroque, Louis XVI-style building dates from 1898, when it was built for the wealthy
politician Gheorghe Cantacuzino. On his death in 1913 the palace became the property of Cantacuzinos eldest son Mihai, who in
turn left it to his wife, Maruca, when he died in 1929. Maruca subsequently married Enescu - in 1939 - but they chose to live in a smaller
house at the rear of the palace.
Crossing Strada Gheorghe Manu, you will come across two gorgeous houses next to each other: the Neo-Classical yet very
French Casa Nenciu, was built in the 1830s for a Wallach ian p rin c ess, th e exotically n am ed Cleopat raTru betkoi. In 1847 Franz Liszt
stayed here while on an extended visit to the Bucharest. Next door at No. 192 is the Casa Manu, completed in 1843 for the
modernising administrator Alecu Florescu, but named for the man who bought it in 1848: the legendary general Gheorghe Manu.
Th e Casa Lens-Vernescu at No. 133 (to give the mansion its full name) is one of the finest on Calea Victoriei, built around 1820 in an
eclectic style incorporating many of the architectural trends of the time. For years it was regarded as the most beautiful house in the city, and
belonged initially to Filip Lens, a lawyer and politician. On his death in 1852 the house became a residence for military officers, the Ministry of
War moving in shortly afterwards. Another politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, bought it from the state in 1886, and had it extensively
remodelled over a two-year period from 1887-9. Today the building houses a casino and a restaurant, which is currently being renovated.
The house on the sou th -western corner of th e Calea Victo-riei/Bulvardul Dacia intersection (opposite the new-ish Golden Tulip hotel) is
the Casa Monteoru. One of the oldest on Calea Victoriei it dates from around 1810, although it was almost entirely reconstructed in the
1880s (to designs by Ion Mincu - an
architect whose name you come across a lot in Bucharest). The building is distinguished by its uneven character: the ground floor is much
smaller than the upper floor, the gorgeous balcony of which is supported by two broad, Corinthian columns. Eclectic both inside and out the
building is today one of a number in the city owned by the Romanian Writers Union.
Next door is a fine palace, known as the Palat Romanit which hosts the Museum of Art Collections. The central corp was built
in 1834, then rebuilt and extended in 1883, when the wings were added. For much of the 19th century the building was home to the
Ministry of Finance, becoming an art museum in 1948, when the wealthiest families in Romania were made an offer they couldnt
refuse by the communist government, and forced to donate much (in many cases all) of their extensive art collections to the state.
Speaking of the state, the elegant, modernist if neglected linear building opposite, at No. 152, is another Duiliu Marcu design, built
from 1936-40 and from 1948-1989 home of the State Planning Committee. Looking every inch a 1930s Italian railway station, the
clock on the main tower is a gem.
Commercial Calea Victoriei
It is at the crossroads with Calea Grivitei that you notice a real change in the mood of Calea Victoriei. The road and pave men ts
narrow, an d hou se s, pala ces a n d s mall parks give way to blocks - many of which are nevertheless elegant if run down - with shops on
the ground floor.
Yet the first building of real interest on this part of Calea Victoriei will for most people be the little white church set back from the
street in a small square on the corner of Str. George Enescu. Known colloquially as the Biserica Alba (White Church), it is officially
the Biserica Sf. Nicolae and is one of the oldest in Bucharest, being founded in 1700. The current structure dates from 1827, however
(the original was destroyed in an earthquake), with the interior frescoes for
28
CaLea ViCtoriei
Arty Souvenirs
Beba Art Gift Shop C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 20,
tel. (+4) 0744 22 22 27, beba@beba.ro, www.beba.
ro. Just behind the Atheneum this is a gorgeous little
shop selling all sorts of artistic creations, from paintings
to paintings to glass and ceramics, clothes and jewellery.
Impossible not to find something to buy. QOpen 12:00
-20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
which it is famed having been restored a number of times,
most recently in 1988.
The glass and steel opposite belong to the Radisson Blu
hotel, opened in 2008 after a refit of several years had turned
the tired, old and often infamous Hotel Bucuresti into the
five-star wonder the rich and famous throng to today.
In what is very much Bucharests Hotel Row, directly
across the road from the Radisson is the Athenee Palace
Hilton, one of few hotels in the world whose history is so intriguing that books have been written about it (Rosie Waldecks
Athenee Palace details the intricate diplomatic discussions
- official or otherwise - which took place here in the 1930s
and 1940s). The hotel opened in 1912 (it was designed by a
Frenchman, Teophile Bradeau) and was built on the site of an
old inn, the Hanul Gherasi. Th e Cale a Vic torie i wi n g was a d d ed
in the 1960s, and the hotel was entirely renovated again in 1997
when it became a Hilton property. Most recently the ground floor
brasserie was remodelled and reopened as the Cafe Athenee.
The Athenee Palace vies for attention on Piata Revolutiei with the Atheneum, the Former Royal Palace, the
University Library, the Former Central Committee Building, the Revolution Monument the Cretulescu Church
(see box, right) and the statue of Carol I. You should take a
look at th e buildin g just behind an d to th e lef t of th e Universit y
Library: the modern green office block inside the ruins of an old
house. What happened here is simple: the building was all but
destroyed during the 1989 revolution (this square saw most
of the action: it was from the low balcony of the grey Former
Central Committee Building that Nicolae Ceausescu gave
his last public speech, before fleeing the next day from the roof
in a helicopter). I t was taken over by th e Architects Uni on wh o
then created the rather splendid mix of old and new we admire
today. The Revolution Monument is a le s s im p r e s s iv e a f f a ir,
mocked by locals who call it an olive on a stick.
Shops of the classy and expensive kind occupy the
ground floor of the buildings that line Calea Victoriei as it
closes in again, at least as far as the two hotels - historic
both for differing reasons - that greet you at the crossroads
with Ion Campaneanu. The Grand Continental Hotel was
reopened in 2009 after being almost totally rebuilt. Opposite
is the Novotel, whose faux Neo-Classical entrance is an
exact replica of that of Bucharests original National Theatre,
which stood here from 1852 until it was destroyed in an allied
bombing raid in August 1944. Next to the Novotel is the art
deco Palatul Telefoanelor (Telephone Palace). Built over
three years from 1929-32 to serve as the headquarters of
Roma nias natio nal tele phon e c o mpan y it wa s th e first bu
ilding in the country to be constructed in the manner of an
American skyscraper: concrete reinforced by a steel frame.
There are three other hotels on this part of the street: the
Majestic, the Capitol a n d t h e Casa Capsa - the latter being
one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1886.
Opposite the Telephone Palace is the Pasajul Victoriei.
Built in the 1830s, it was home for a long time to the Bucharests
most luxurious brothel, immortalized in Ion Matei Caragiales
1929 novel Craii de Curtea Veche. The Cercul Militar was
completed in 1912, on the site of a former monastery, the
Sarindar. A recently renovated fountain in front of the build-
ing preserves the Sarindar name. Opposite is the Hotel

Bulevard, built in the 1860s and the first in the city to have
running water in the rooms. It was closed in 2005 ahead of a
five-star refit that is approaching completion.
On the opposite corner, find the little courtyard (next to
Pizza Hut) which leads through to one of Bucharests many
hidden churches. Dating from 1683 the churchs name is a
mouthful: the Biserica Intrarea Maicii Domnului n Biseric
(the Church of the Entrance of the Mother of God into Church).
The recently restored frescoes are worth popping inside to see.
From here Calea Victoriei heads gently downhill towards
the river, passing the Bancorex building at No. 15 (now called
the Bucharest Financial Plaza) the first modern office block
to be built after 1990. Bancorex - a bank set up to absorb and
disperse foreign loans and investment in the early 1990s - went
bust in 1999, and has become a byword for post-communist
corruption. Next door is the far more satisfactory CEC building
(the ornate national savings bank built in 1900) while opposite is
the National History Museum (see page 69). The Old Town/
Lipscani area lurks behind the History Museum.
At the very bottom of the street, facing the river, are the
Gloriette Buildings, neither of which is in the best of shape.
Designed by local architect Petru Antonescu and completed
in 1926, they are worth noting for their design (particularly
the belvedere at the top), which was used a blueprint for the
apartment buildings which went up in the Civic Centre along
Bulevardul Unirii in the 1980s (see box on page 90, and which,
it should be said, have weathered no better).
Bucharests Historic Churches

Creulescu Church (Biserica Creulescu) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the
most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica
Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian
humanitarian Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding
paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an
unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in
1859 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. The bust which stands
in front of it, by the way, is of Corneliu Coposu, a leading
liberal politician of the 1940.
New St. Georges Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe. The largest
of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of
Constantin Brncoveanu, the New St. Georges Church
was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder
of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli,
and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the
times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the
sculptor
Caragea.
Brncoveanu
(Romanias
renaissance man) is himself allegedly buried under the
church, in an unmarked grave.
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str.
Dealul Mitropoliei. Set atop one of the citys few hills,
known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been
the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the
seventeeth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea
de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of
facelifts, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals
structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658.
The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in
1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and
closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence
of Daniel Ciobotea, the recently elected Patriarch of the
Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708.
Accommodation
<^
in
Buchare
st
PROFESSIONAL REALTY'
Tel: {0040 21) 232 04 06; (004) 0745 010 202

Fax: (0040 21} 232 17 04; E-mail: realty@dlgl.ro
w w w. [j[ uicoaiui itij r ccii lyr o
30
where to stay
Cream of the Crop
Symbol Key
Athenee Palace Hilton

C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.
hiltonbucharest.com. Much spoken of in the past tense
(this place has a seriously long and legendary history; a
home of intrigues and adventure for more than a century)
it is less often referred to in the present. This is a shame,
as to dwell on the past ignores the fact that this is a great,
modern hotel. Luxuriously furnished, the immense rooms offer
the latest in gadgetry and perhaps the fluffiest bathrobes in
Romania. Ask for a room with a view over Piata Revolutiei
for best effect. Fine dining on site courtesy of one excellent
restaurant and an exemplary brasserie. 272 rooms (175
singles/doubles, 96 suites and apartments. Prices from
110250). Prices do not include breakfast, taxes or VAT.
D SI H S (111 (3 S B QD S S OB
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Disabled facilities
R Internet (Standard)
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
M Nearest metro station
J Old Town location
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
W WiFi Internet
Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33

77, www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious, certainly, but
offering something a bit different to the bigger players, the
Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have to know about
this place, as you do not find it by chance. A gorgeous place
where the finest things are offered to all who pass through its
doors, expect only fine, classic furnishings and very personal
service. International stars who value discretion above all else
tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest. 17 rooms (17
singles/doubles 120515). Prices include breakfast. VAT not
included. (*] S (! B QD OB
Crowne Plaza Bucharest
A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34,
www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. Contemporary and
welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand, from
first class accommodation to world class facilities. With
a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service,
the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital,
surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can
also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms
(and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking
and dining options. 164 rooms (130 singles/doubles
690-780 lei, 26 suites 990 lei, 8 apartments 2100 lei). Extra
bed 120 lei. Prices include Buffet Breakfast. VAT not included.
D H S @ (3 S QD S 8 OB
Epoque
B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32,
www.epoque.ro. Now heres a hotel we have no problem
in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the
Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart
of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a
retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are
plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good
and for what you get, the prices are a steal. 45 rooms
(16 junior suites 149, 27 executive suites 159-179, 2
apartments 320-420). Extra bed 20. Prices do not include
breakfast and VAT. Taxes not included. (H (*] S @ (3 S3 B
QD@||OB
Loads more hotels

and online booking at
inyourpocket.com
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel.

(+4) 0372 01 03 00, fax (+4) 0372 01 03 01, info@
grandhotelcontinental.ro, www.grandhotelcontinental.
ro. Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates
from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel
Continental is the result of more than two years of loving
renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn,
though do not think that modern touches are missing, for they
are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example
are state of the art. For the great location and for a change
from the big chains, its well worth trying out. 59 rooms
(57 singles/ doubles 300350, 2 singles 280330 and 6
apartments 600-800). VAT, breakfast and all taxes included.
B H S (111 B (1B QD S OB
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza B-3, Calea Dorobantilor
5-7, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, fax (+4)
021 201 18 88, sales@hojoplaza.ro, www.hojoplaza.
ro. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest,
where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors,
all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. The
breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does
with champagne (for those who enjoy such things in the
morning), and the dining opportunities in general are excellent:
there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site.
To really get the best out of this place though, ask for a room
on one of the upper floors, for the views over the city. 285
rooms (268 singles/doubles 120-145, 15 suites 200, 2
apartments 375). Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or
taxes. g[S@g@|!(g(]BQDgOB
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, |M)Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.inter continental.com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (com
plete with a small swimming pool and - during the summer,
sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental was the
first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning
of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something
of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of
whom have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here all
boast big balconies with great views of the city, there is first
class dining in the building, and the management is commendably hands-on. 257 rooms (236 singles/doubles, 20 junior
suites, 1 apartment). Prices from 109-285 (December) and
108-279 (January). Prices include breakfast, but not local
taxes (9%). g [S @ S (1 ffl B B QD g 11 OB
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW
Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first
glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of
Bucharests big five star hotels. T he scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part
of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the
rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome
contrast to the building. Home to the biggest swimming pool
in the city (we think). 401 rooms (379 singles/doubles 676730 lei for December and 872-927 lei for January; 22 apartments 1500-5000 lei). Prices include breakfast. Local taxes
not included. SBSSBBBBBSLUBlloB
Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei
37B, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. Few
locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea
Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old
neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact
site until the British bombed it to next week during the
Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel
is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly
impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here. 258
rooms (242singles/doubles, 16 suites). Prices from 225-375
(December) and 190-340 (January). Extra bed on request in
the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes.
S S] S H (111 B El E <> QD B S
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main
attraction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the
bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city.
There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the
square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere
else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you
well fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness
centre with sauna and massage available. 203 rooms
(188 singles/doubles 205-225, 15 suites / apartments
305-800). Prices do not include VAT and breakfast. B B
BSBBBBBSLUBOB
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest.
A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more
classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in
playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As
you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern,
and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design.
Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both
an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the
weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime
Steaks and Seafood. 718 rooms (385 singles/doubles
500-750 lei, 333 suites/ apartments 730-8500 lei). Prices
include breakfast (except single, double and extra bed rates).
SBSBBBBLHBSOB
Over 150
Angelo Calea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65
00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. The hotel closest to
Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna Hotels, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior:
bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas.
There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre
complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is
complimentary. Good buffet breakfast. 177 rooms (172
singles/doubles 155-165, 5 apartments 205). Prices
include VAT, local taxes and breakfast. B B H @ ffl B
BBLHBOB
Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, |M)P-ta Romana, tel. (+4)
021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, www.hotelduke.
ro. Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from
Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight
Sightseeing Buses
Bucharest now has
double decker buses,
a nd not just any
double decker buses
either. Oh no. These
are special tourist
buses, which run from
09:00 to 20:00 along
a circuitous route
from Casa Scanteii
(Piata
Presei
Libere) to Piata Unirii, taking in Bulevardul Kiseleff,
Calea Victoriei, Bulevardul Libertatii, Casa
Poporului and Bulevardul Unirii along the way.
On the way back the buses travel along Bulevardul

I.C. Bratianu, Bulevardul Magheru, Ana Ipatescu and
Bulevardul Aviatorilor.
The buses make frequent stops, and should run at 15
minute intervals, although as there are only four actual
buses on days when the traffic is bad that schedule
might be a little ambitious.
There is no commentary or such like, but tickets (which
cost an eye-watering 25 lei for adults, 10 lei for children)
are valid for 24 hours, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off
as many times as you like.
Tickets can be purchased on board, and you can join
the tour at any of the stops.
32
where to stay
spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past.
Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and
theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for
their excellent mattresses. Q 37 rooms (33
singles/doubles 71-91, 4 suites 111-141). Extra bed
20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PARGKW
of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack
rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very
good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and
babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome.
Q 76 rooms (76 singles/doubles 150). Prices include
VAT. Breakfast not included. PTHRUFLGKW
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, tel. (+4) 021
316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.com. This, people, is
a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a
relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with
terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are
equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and
a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast.
The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries
in the city. Q 70 rooms (38 singles/doubles 119-132,
32 suites 153-167). Extra bed 29. Prices include VAT, all
taxes and breakfast. PTHARLGK
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99 90,
www.parliament-hotel.ro. So named because it is located
behind Romanias parliament building, Casa Poporului, which
you can see from almost all of the rooms. This hotel has been
around for a decade now and offers a four/five star experience:
many of the rooms have jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are
packed with luxuries such as the huge, high double beds, which
are among the best weve come across in Bucharest. Q
56 rooms (46 doubles 100, 10 suites 170). Extra bed
20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHRUGKW
K+K Elisabeta C-5, Str. Slanic 26, tel. (+4) 021 302
92 80, www.kkhotels.ro. We loved this place for a number
of reasons, not least the fact that the huge breakfast buffet
stays open until 11:00, meaning late starters can still get
breakfast. The hotel is located in a huge, renovated period
house just behind Piata Universitatii. The discretion of the
location betrays the fact that this is the kind of place you
come to if you like old fashioned luxury, good service, and
possess exceptional taste. Q 67 rooms (59
singles/doubles 74-149, 8 triples 112-179). Prices include
VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHRFGKDW
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4) 021
300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the most
attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering
a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.

(+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. The
Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close
to Romexpo and Herastrau park - hence the name) it boasts nice
rooms which - while not big - are comfortable and boast brightly
coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds.Q
267 rooms (180 singles 139, 79 doubles 159, 8 apartments
210). Prices include breakfast. PHRGKW
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.
Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.

ramadanorth.ro. Well named, for it is indeed in the north
of the city. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on
average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. The hotel boasts a good spa centre
(with excellent Turkish bath), big fitness room with loads of
Discover
Paris of the Balkans
Bucharest
On the Widest boulevard in Europe

at one end is die second targest building in the world
at the_o^^ron.e is conveniently located our hotel
Book your room with us and Cake advantage of our special Winter deals
Go! dcnTu I i p Ti m c s -co m
reservation s@gol dentuliptimes.com

where to stay
33
equipment and has a good lobby bar. The on-site dining is decent too. Q 232 rooms (164 singles/doubles 75-84, 24 triple and
31 suites upon request, 13 apartments 99.48). Extra bed 10. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTHRUFLGKDW
Ramada Majestic
B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on
Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great
breakfast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack
pools, the Majestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash. Q 111 rooms (85 singles/doubles 240-290, 26 suites and
apartments 350-1200). Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTHRUFLGKDCW
Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. Slightly more upmarket
than its sister establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The
design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a
good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value for the money. Q 298 rooms (293 singles/doubles 159-179, 2 suites 240, 3
apartments 270). Prices include breakfast. PHRUFGKW
Scala Bucuresti C-5, Str. C. A. Rosetti 19, tel. (+4) 031 104 11 11/(+4) 031 104 11 13, www.hotelscalabucur-esti.ro. As
central as they come, this gorgeous conversion of a glorious ancien regime Bucharest house is as fine a place to stay as now exists in
the Romanian capital. You will love
the grand, classically furnished rooms, which come complete with high ceilings and restored, original wooden flooring. The loft suite,
complete with skylights, is a special treat if you can splash the extra cash. Q 11 rooms (11single/double 159-199, 1 suite 259).
Extra bed upon request. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHARLGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotel.ro. Yo u want central? In a building on
a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole
of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. Plenty of
little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres an on site bistro with great views of the
busy streets outside. Q 21 rooms (21 singles/doubles 85-125). Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
100-150
POTRULGKW
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04 77, www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from the outside,
the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big) rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders for the best bathrooms
in the city prize we often mention but never get round to handing out. Serves a great breakfast (included in the price of a room). Q
32 rooms (32 singles/ doubles 65-75. Extra bed 10. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PHRLGKW
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60, www.hotelberthelot.ro. Smart, modern and dead central.
What more could you want? For your money
34
where to stay
El Greco C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 16, MP-ta Universitatii, tel. (+4) 021 315 81 31/(+4) 021 315 81 41,
www.hotelelgreco.ro. Located in the heart of what was,
pre-World War II, the most stylish residential area in the city.
This is one such villa dating from that period, though it has
of course been renovated and refurbished to include a rack
of modern luxuries. Fortunately, however, the ambience of
the ancien regime has been preserved, making this one of
the best villa conversions in the city. Q 20 rooms (18
singles/doubles 95-110, 2 apartments 140). Prices for
suites include all taxes, VAT and breakfast for one person.
PTHARULGKW
you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and well
furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions,
while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably
fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. Q 43
rooms (5 singles 109, 38 doubles 129). Prices include
VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, tel. (+4) 021 315 56
36, www.thhotels.ro. Slap, bang on Bucharests version of
Broadway (its all relative), amongst cinemas and theatres,
the Central was totally renovated last year and is now one of
the best (and best value) stays in the city. We like the staff who
are always friendly, and who go out of their way to make sure
you do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention
to detail is to be applauded. Q 62 rooms (57 doubles
140, 1 suite 170, 4 apartments 180). Extra bed 20.
Prices include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
55, www.thhotels.ro. Yo u could quite literally throw a stone
from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not
recommend it), and as such we think this is a great place for
families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not
cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially given
the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they
lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too.
Q 33 rooms (26 singles/doubles 130-140, 4 suites
150, 3 apartments 170). Prices include all taxes and
breakfast.
PTHR6UGKW
Residence Arc de Triomphe
A-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4)

0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic
hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent
value rooms and super services. There are little touches
of class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The
wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the newly
added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant
is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine.
where to stay
35 rooms (25 singles/ doubles 90-100, 10 suites/ apartments 110-120). VAT not included. Prices include breakfast.
PTHRLGKDW
Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu
33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers real
luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for
classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments
are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi,
perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation.
The food in the restaurant better than most of Bucharests restaurants: it is really that good. Q 33 rooms (15
singles/doubles 90-100, 18 suites/ apartments 110-120).
Prices include breakfast. VAT not included.
PTHRLGKDW
Starlight Suite B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97,
tel. (+4) 021 211 34 13, www.starlighthotels.com. At
the bustling junction of B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara, and glitzy
Calea Dorobantilor is Starlight, the first hotel of its kind in
Romania. Every room is a suite, complete with separate living
and sleeping areas; some have two bedrooms. All have air
conditioning, the latest in home entertainment systems, and
kitchenettes complete with microwaves. The fitness centre
is free to guests, and a continental breakfast is included in
the price. Excellent value for money. Q 78 rooms (71
suites 81, 7 apartments 115). Prices include all taxes,
VAT and
breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Venezia B-5, Str. Pompiliu Eliade 2, tel. (+4) 021 310
68 72, www.thhotels.ro. Expect some unique rooms, some
with real character provided by the shape of the building,
lovely staff and some thoroughly reasonable prices. Add in
speedy internet connections, air conditioning in all rooms
and a non-smoking environment, and you have a winner.
Q 49 rooms (41 singles/doubles 130-140, 2 suites
150, 5 apartments 170). Extra bed 20. Prices include
all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
Under 100
Andy
A-4, Str. Witing 2, tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50, www.andyhotels.ro. You can see Gara de Nord from your bedroom
window if you stay here: you can decide for yourself if thats
good or bad. Its a decent hotel, especially compared to those
surrounding it, and if you are in two minds as to which station
hotel to stay in, make sure you choose this one. It even has
a sauna and jacuzzi. Q 49 rooms (48 singles/doubles
35-40, 1 triple 50). Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast.
PHR6FGKDW
Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74,
tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. A nice

place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city
centre to be within walking distance. There is an elegance
to the decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and
effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and
covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good
bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more
than it does: seriously good value for money. Q 8 rooms
(2 singles 50, 6 doubles 50-100). Prices include all taxes,
VAT and breakfast. PTLW
Charter Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87
19/(+4) 021 352 87 21, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you
pay at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really:
these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they
cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the
35
36
where to stay
other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so
to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at prices as low as these, we doubt anyone will be complaining. Q 23
rooms (17 singles/doubles 35-40, 1 triple 50, 5 suites 55). Extra bed 10. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRGKW
Class Bucharest Str. Garlei 30A, tel. (+4) 037 213 57 00, www.class-hotel.ro. Close to Baneasa Airport what this place lacks in
city centre-ness it more than makes up for with comfort. This is to all intents and purposes a five star hotel, complete with luxurious
bathrooms and perhaps the best indoor swimming pool in the city. Really. If you are looking for a leafier location than the city centre can
offer, and a little luxury at a decent price, then its a decent choice. Q 63 rooms (59 doubles/triples 59-79, 4 suites 140). Prices
include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PHRFGKDCW
Dan B-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58, tel. (+4) 0727 59 95 99, www.hoteldan.ro. Smart addition to
Bucharests enormously popular three-star scene. The location is central without being noisy, and the rooms themselves are all
well-sized and well-equipped. Staff are friendly, befitting a small hotel, and ready to see to your every need. Q 15 rooms (14
singles/doubles 47-55, 1 apartment 70). Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRULGW
DoubleTree by Hilton D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. Located just off
Bulevardul Unirii, the City is something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist
architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms.
Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from on the
ground floor: one has a covered terrace. Q 88 rooms (66 singles/doubles 65-75, 7 triple 85, 14 suites 90, 1apartment
215). Extra bed 10. Prices include local taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKDW
Golden Tulip Bucharest B-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden
Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in design we think its suited best to business travellers looking to
get great value for their companys dollar. Q 81 rooms (79 singles/doubles 85-95, 2 suites 105). Prices include VAT, all taxes
and breakfast.
PTJHRUFLGKW
Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked so good. For
your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than
many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes we think this is
one of the best deals in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station. Q 150 rooms (150 doubles 35). Extra bed 10.
Prices include VAT and taxes. Breakfast not included. (5 per person).
PR6ULGKW
Ibis Gara de Nord A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than
40 years this building (and the whole area) was
where to stay
given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several
years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard
Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra)
and all in all a good value stay. The name is not misleading:
it is dead opposite the station. Q 250 rooms (234
singles/ doubles 49 for December and 49-54, 16
apartments 79). Prices include VAT and local taxes.
Breakfast not included.
PHR6ULGKW
Ibis Palatul Parlamentului
B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, www.
ibishotels.ro. If you want a view of Casa Poporului then
this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other
than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love
them (or otherwise!) from anywhere else on the planet.
Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does
boast non-smoking rooms and very good staff. Q
161 rooms (154 singles/doubles 49-70, 7 apartments
95). Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not
included.
PTHR6ULGKW
Minerva
B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MVictoriei, tel. (+4) 021
311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. It is really hard to knock
the Minerva so we will not even try. Having been around so
long it is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice
for business people who pay their own bills: you get great
service, a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking),
a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of
what the five-stars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in
Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar
and a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath
and massage.Q 147 rooms (138 singles/doubles 75-95, 9
apartments 111). Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PHRFGKDW
ETC) NH BUCHAREST AND Nil II'.IISOA!
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4) 021 313 93

15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, info@rembrandt.ro, www.
rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well in advance) you will
see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what happens
when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs - unsurprisingly
- to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect
to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings
complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. The hotel
celebrated its sixth birthday in January 2011: long may it
go on. Q 16 rooms (6 single 75, 8 doubles 95, 2
triples 118). Extra bed available. Prices include all taxes,
VAT and breakfast. PTRUGKW
Tania-Frankfurt C-6, Str. Selari 5, tel. (+4) 021 319 27
58/(+4) 031 104 20 83, fax (+4) 021 319 27 56, rezervari@taniahotel.ro, www.taniahotel.ro. This is a cracking
37
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38
where to stay
Bed & Breakfast
* Dorm and private rooms
*"
jt- Family owned
H English & French speaking stiff

* Individual ft Groups
free bicycles, infernal &
laundry
4" Double ensuite C34/night
"" Breakfast & VAT included
Contact: vilallbb@hQtrnail.corn
0722 495 900; 0722 495 901
Instltutul Medtco-Mllltar rtr. 11. Bucharest
little place in the very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy,
and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised sleeping area.
Theres free internet for guests. Q 13 rooms (11 singles/doubles 45-55 for December and 49-59 for January, 2 suites 89). Prices
include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. PJRGKW
Trianon
B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021 311 49 27/ (+4) 021 311 49 28, fax (+4) 021 316 22 81, office@
hoteltrianon.ro, www.hoteltrianon.ro. If location really is everything then you cant do much better than this cracking place on Str.
Cobalcescu, next to the Ministry of Defence and opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street
that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully decorated
and offer excellent value for money. Bathrooms have either a bath or a shower. Q 26 rooms (24 singles/doubles 85-103, 2
apartments 133). Extra bed 18. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
Hostels & Villas
PTHR6UGKW
The Funky Chicken B-5, Str. Gen. Berthelot 63, tel. (+4) 021 312 14 25, fax (+4) 021 610 22 14, funkychickenhostel@hotmail.com, www.funkychickenhostel. com. Offering free cigarettes may appear to be a good idea when the
bulk of your clients are penniless students, but it sounds like irresponsibility to us. Anyway, this wacky! crazy! hostel will appeal to
the kind of person who enjoys puns like clucking good atmosphere or being told that the staff are friendly but smelly. Students,
whod have them? Q 4
where to stay
39
rooms (1 double 12, 1 private dorm 9.5, 1mixed dorm 8 ). Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included.
THUNGW
Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00/(+4) 0722 49 59 01,
vila11bb@hotmail.com, www.villa11@hostels.com.
Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of
private rooms, dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers and families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a
great breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Q 12
rooms(4 singles/doubles 22-34, 1 triple 160 lei, 2 multibed dorms 12.50, 1 triple 45, 1 suite 17). Prices include breakfast.
6GW
Short Term Rental
Heading to Brasov?
Classic Inn Str. Tibles 7-9, Brasov, tel. (+4) 0372 77 78 89, www.classic-inn.ro. Just about the best new hotel to open in
Brasov for some time. Lovely big rooms, classically (yes, really) furnished with proper beds and lush carpets. Rooms are also air-conditioned:
not always the case in B V. Nice big restaurant on site, and a proper lobby-bar with cracking bar stools. Find it just past Piata Unirii in the heart of
Schei. Q 34 rooms (26 singles/doubles 49-69, 8 suites/ apartments 89-119). Prices include all taxes and breakfast.
PHARFLGBKW
Cert Accommodation B-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, office@cert-accommodation.ro, www.cert-accommodation.ro. A good selection of studios, one, two and three bedroom apartments in
and around the city centre. All are reasonably well furnished,
and children and babies are welcome: cots can be supplied
on request. Q Prices from 37. PALW
Professional Realty C-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu
33, bl, 10/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06/(+4)
0745 04 30 43, office@accommodation.com.ro, www.
accommodation.com.ro. These people have been offering
great apartments in central Bucharest since 1996: they were
one of the first players in the market, and are still the best.
They have a range of city-centre apartments, from studios
to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa.
Whats more, they have someone on call 24 hours for any
emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety
of other services, from city tours to laundry. Magic. Q
Prices from 50-150. VAT not included. A
RomVision Travel E-6, B-dul Burebista 1, bl. D15,
sc. 4, ap. 133, tel. (+4) 021 322 65 33/(+4) 0723 40
93 96, office@romvision.ro, www.romvision.ro. A wide
variety of apartments in the city centre of all types and sizes,
from small and simple to big and luxurious, with something
for all pockets. The most luxurious have jacuzzis and
fireplaces and are a genuine five-star experience. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Prices from 52/
night. VAT not included.
40
restaUrants
American
Price Guide
B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest

Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Still serving the very best burger in
Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from an
endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone
weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we
think of it, the portions of everything here are enormous:
even the childrens servings are very healthy indeed. Besides
the burgers you will find a great selection of American pub
food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even mici. Famously
good cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than
you could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs
as you go in and to your right. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
.
PTLGSW
(Based on a good meal with wine)
Champions
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. Wham,
Bam, thank you Maam. Americana gone berserk in the very
best sense of the word. Nobody can knock this place and it
is easy to see why. Feast on top level, upmarket-burger bar
and Tex-Mex food, served in huge portions by perky Bond
girls who have a smile for everyone. Then sit back with
great cocktails and listen to some very good rock and roll
supplied by some of Bucharests best live acts. Seriously
good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. .
PLESW
Argentinean
La Blanca C-4, Calea Dorobanti 18, MP-ta Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 619 07 35, www.lablanca.ro. In a magnificent
villa on Dorobanti, that has been given the million dollar treatment and then some, this is a genuine Argentinean steak
house in the sense that the hardware is indeed shipped
in from the Pampas. There are all kinds of steaks to enjoy,
from striploin to T-Bone to rib-eye. There also have a few
non-beefy extras, such as scallops, king prawns and fresh
foie gras (which they grill perfectly). Fine wines from around
the world and sweet, tasty desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLBSW
Expensive
(More than 30 per
person)
Not cheap
(20-30 per person)
Middling
(10-20 per person)
Cheap
(Less than 10 per person)
British
The Trafalgar Pub C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.

(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Popular pub
and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for little
money while enjoying usually decent company. The menu has a
few British dishes - we can recommend the Spinach and Stilton
Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta - one of the
best in the city, and the ciolan cu varza - pork knuckle with
cabbage and beans. Guinness on draught at a decent price,
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
Chinese
Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, tel. (+4) 021
318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Dating back to 1980s this little piece of Bucharest
foodie history was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. It
is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city
where good eateries come and go fast) testifies. Prices are
reasonable, the setting is good, with a nice covered terrace
overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. Yo u will find the
Nan Jing on the ground floor of the Minerva hotel. Q
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
1J best Osnese isstawant ol 2CKS ami2QW
Asian
The Gang Restaurant & Lounge C-3, Calea Florea-
sca 111-113, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91, www.thegang.

ro. Very nice indeed. Though probably more famous as
being the top peoples club, The Gang also has a restaurant serving some fabulous Asian/Fusion food prepared
by not one but two (count them: you will see them as the
kitchen is open, how refreshing) Nepalese chefs. Whats
more, though its location in Dorobanti/Floreasca screams
fitze, the place itself is understated and decorated with
incredible restraint and good taste. Add in some eclectic
live music and you have a winner. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00.
. PLESW
Belgian
Le Bistro
B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021

311 90 00. Could be the best thing to happen to Bucharest
dining for a while. After all, for how long have we pined for a
decent Belgian restaurant? Well, Le Bistro is it, serving great
big portions of freshly imported mussels and fries (and much
else besides) at prices we consider more than reasonable
given the quality. See you there. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00.
Closed Sun. . PL
restaUrants
41
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425 47 47/(+4) 0733 50 07 50, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Bucharests first
upmarket Chinese restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. And with due
reason. This is the best Chinese food in Romania since, well, just about ever. At least since John Wing left. The menu is adventurous and
features all sorts of dishes that place it way above anywhere else in town, such as the sea cucumber and mushroom soup, or the Chinese
cabbage, served correctly with dried oysters. Tremendous value. QOpen 12:30 -24:00. Last food order 23:00. . PLVSW
Food & Drink

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in which you could just as easily sit down and have a three course meal as you
could spend a night on the cocktails.
18 Lounge A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or dinner with a view? On the 18th floor of
one of the newest office buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a
restaurant though the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a self-declared
anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. QOpen
10:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 24:30. . PLSW
James Joyces Pub B-5, Str. Valter Maracineanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 311 41 77, www.joyces.ro. So much more than an Irish
pub, this place more or less has it all, from a cracking location right next to Cismigiu Park to a regular programme of live events. Expect
all sorts, from quiz nights to hip DJs spinning the discs until the early hours. And we have yet
to mention the food, which like all else is again, a cut above your average Irish pub fare. It is, in fact, perhaps the citys first real
attempt at a gastro pub. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30, Fri 10:00 - 02:30, Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:30..
PLEBW
La Belle Epoque B-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www.labelleepoque.ro. A big, bright and open plan cafe on
Radu Beller (Dorobanti) branded as a Belgian beer cafe. And there is no doubt about the beer: there are plenty of Belgian beers
present and correct, as well as a few Belgian touches in and around the bar. The food is not really Belgian, though as most people now
seem to use this place as a (good) boozer rather than a place to eat, nobody seems to mind too much. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. .
PIBW
Market 8 B-3, Str. Serban Petrescu 8, tel. (+4) 0734 80 80 80, www.market8.ro. Have we been along this road before? Yes, there
was once a Market 8 in Lipscani: it didnt last very long, so lets hope this one lasts longer, for its nice. Using much the same concept as before
(designer goodies alongside designer Fusion - and then some - food), the new location is perhaps better suited to the crowd it wants to attract
(monied, trendy) and despite initial doubts we were more than won over on our first visit. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PBW
The Harbour B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57, www.harbour.ro. A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to
match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, though the real joy of this place is
its view to the market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of
the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVEBSW
42
restaUrants
French
Boutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, tel. (+4)

0728 44 33 00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything
you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in
fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and
evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of
morning pastries is the best in the city, with office workers
going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch
there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else,
and the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu
changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. Serving great
coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate, we (and our kids!)
love this place. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00.
. PSW
Escargot Bistro D-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 021
201 71 33, www.escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: this is
the place for you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is
a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the
chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes
48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never
eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all
served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02, www.frenchbakery.ro. It
had to happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers the
goods time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs
you to spend more time here. The menu features a number of
simple, new-wave French cuisine which - for this city - is very
well-priced. The tasty duck dishes stood out for us, as did the
desserts and the excellent wine list which - while featuring a
great list of French grape - for once acknowledges that the
New World can make decent wine too. In short, this place is
a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy
of your time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:30. . PSW
Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36
08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, www.icietla.ro. As regular
readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and
that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner
prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are
rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and
the wine list features plenty of affordable grape. To p it all off
with the magnificent creme brulee. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. . PVESW
Fusion
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand

Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, www.
hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalon-restaurant. At Avalon, the jewel in the
HoJos dining crown, knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours
and smells of the superb Fusion cuisine. Every time we visit
(and we visit as often as we can) we find something new and
interesting - and usually inventive - on the menu (which changes
regularly) and a good new wine to go with our meal. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 16:00, 180 lei/pers, children under seven free, children between
seven and 12 years half price. . PLSW
Loft Lounge C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 55-57, tel.
(+4) 0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.ro. It might be
too fashionable for some tastes, but the truth is the food is
amongst the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best
chef in the land. Its not just us who say so either: ask anybody
in the city who knows their food and you get the same reply:
its brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood domi-
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nates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with risotto,

for example: it sounds so simple yet its a taste sensation. Not
cheap of course, but worth the cost. Q Open 12:00 17:00, 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. . PLESW
German
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4)

021 233 94 62, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really, one
of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has
been around for more than a decade). Serving giant portions of
great German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as
pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the prices down
and their punters very happy. Yo u usually need a reservation
at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of German beer too.
QOpen 15:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. . PNB
Indian
Karishma D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252
51 57, www.karishma.ro. This place, by warrant of its bits
and pieces layout, is perhaps the closest thing you will find
to a classic British/Indian curry house in Bucharest. No less
than three Indian chefs cook up the treats out back, with the
lamb rogan josh - ordered extra hot - never failing to hit the
spot. In fact, we counted no fewer than 10 lamb dishes on
the menu, a rare treat in these parts where the raw material
is so hard to find. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. . PLVS
International
Arcade B-2, Str. I. Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel.

(+4) 021 260 29 60, www.restaurantarcade. ro.
Other places may come and go, but this one has been
first class for well over seven years now. Every year
they come up with new, sharper menus (the current
one stars a glorious duck confit) meaning you have no
excuse not to go as often as you can afford it. The
lovely, high-ceilinged indoor dining room is a joy in which
to dine. All round, superb. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLSW
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel
Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00,
www.grandhotelcontinental.ro.
Very
interesting
indeed. A a restaurant brave enough to admit that food in
this part of the world is truly Balkan, and that the edges
between Serbian, Turkish, Greek, Romanian and Bulgarian
food can sometimes be very blurred indeed. You will find a
rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on the menu in
their original language. See you there. Q Open 12:3015:30, 18:30-22:30. . PLGW
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021

224 10 04/(+4) 0745 00 36 60. We have been coming here
since the last century, when there was precious little choice in
Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little
more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to
Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb
with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had
hoped. The onion bhajs remain Bucharests best. First class
cocktail list. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . (S)[J][J]OB
Concerto Fine Dining C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand
Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03
00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine dining
stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with the appearance of the Grand Continentals showcase dining room,
a match for any other in the city. This is the place to come
for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a long
list of the worlds finest wines (from Romania, France, Italy,
Spain, South Africa, North and South America). T he setting is
to die for, and the staff are knowledgeable about both food
and wine and will talk you through everything on the menu.
Bucharests gourmands are now indeed spoilt for choice.
Open 12:30 - 16:00, 19:00-23:00. . (S) [P) U) OB
Dacia Felix B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson BLU),
tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotelbucharest. The best thing about this place is that the cracking
breakfast (the best in the city) is open to allcomers: simply
turn up before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day
(we would have liked to have stayed for the day such was the
wealth of goodies on offer, but they had to get ready for lunch...).
The Dacia-Felix is also the setting for the Radissons excellent
Sunday Brunch which, though it goes on for four hours, is not
long enough to savour everything on offer. Bags of pink sparkling
wine too... Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.
Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 190 lei/pers, children under six
free, between 6-12 half price. . (S) [P) U) [] oa
Doncafe Brasserie B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746
22 24 44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Magnificent place
just off Piata Dorobanti. Open early for breakfast (they do
a decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) its busy
throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business
types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads,
a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade:
it is put together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a
divine cheese cake are our fave dishes f rom the menu. You go
pick your own. Open 08:30 - 24:00. . g \P\ [J] OB
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 021 211
40 41/(+4) 0722 70 25 60, www.restaurantgargantua.
ro. Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through
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restaUrants
Le Theatre B-5, Str. George Enescu 2-4, MP-ta Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 74, www.letheatre.ro. A bit of
food with your jazz? Or a bit of jazz with your food? There is
always usually something happening at Le Theatre, and even
if there isnt, the food is enough to keep you here for most of
the evening. The lamb chops we ate were terrific: pink and
tender, and they went down well with a plate of fresh spinach.
Great atmosphere, good people, a decent choice for dinner.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PEW
Omnivores Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, tel.
(+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Brilliant! Tiny
place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest.
There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the
staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try and bag a
seat at one of the tables (there are only three or four). Yo u can
take away if there is no space. The kind of place Bucharest
needs loads more of. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
. PVBSW
The Vinyard A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, contact@laveranda.ro, www.
laveranda.ro. The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this
is now the hotels flagship restaurant, a work of great detail
where everything is lovingly prepared by Exec Chef Ashlie
Dias and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something
exotic and a bit different on the daring menu, and a number
of the dishes require waiter or audience - thats you, diner
-participation. An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . PEGSW
its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie

with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke
salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are
more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food.
Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00. . PLVSW
La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Redesigned and
reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop
over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good quality,
simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffetstyle or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or
groups on the run. The wine list remains a work of art. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers,
children between six and 12 years half price, children under
six free. . PEGSW
Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021
231 40 77, reservations@uptown.ro, www.uptown.ro.
Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part
of the city, the citys wealthiest people come here to eat. The
real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al
fresco even when its snowing outside. The food is good, a mix
of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a
menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value
for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or
turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PLBSW
Italian
Aquarium C-4, Str. Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4) 021 211

28 20/(+4) 0730 07 77 23, www.restaurantaquarium.
ro. Since 1994 its been the same story: good but not
extraordinary Italian food and a swish, bright interior; both
make Aquarium worth a visit. It can be a little showy, with
high-powered individuals often choosing to hold court here,
restaUrants
Best Chinese Food in Bucharest

69
2012 New Year Eve Part
rese r vatio n @ m i n erva. ro
ONLY
online orders
www.nanjing.ro
Restaurant Nan Jing (since 1980)
Hotel Minerva Qround Floor Str, Gheorghe
Manu 2-4, Sector 1, Bucharest
Tel: 021 3181285

but that shouldnt put you off what now has to be classed as a
Bucharest legend. Rather expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLESW
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, www.
caffe-citta.ro. Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/
bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Tr y
the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu:
all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks
menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as
it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available by the
glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream.
QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. . PLGBW
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99, capricciosa_restaurant@yahoo.com. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even
do truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those every day on
a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown
for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates
that top restaurants dont have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00
-24:00. . PLSW
For details of restaurants, cafes,

bars and clubs in Bucharests
Old Town, see pages 72-87.
0726 103407
Casa di David B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021
232 47 15, www.casadidavid.ro. You can say what you
like about this high-class place (and most party people in
Bucharest have some kind of opinion), but to us it remains
a very nice place to spend the evening, with its big windows
and simple furnishings. The food is ristorante Italian, and very
good, with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food
lovers, and though the big screen TV is annoying: thats the
only fault we have. Staff are good and the wine list a cracker.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. . PLBSW
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.cucinarestaurant.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a
wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best
(and perhaps only) swordfish steak in the city. The veal cutlets
are incredibly expensive but worth every penny, while for a simple
reminder of great cooking and intense flavours, the pumpkin and
goose liver soup is a masterpiece. No fewer than 19 good Italian
reds grace the wine menu. Q Open 12:30 - 14:00, 19:00 23:30, Sun 19:00 - 23:30. . PLESW
De Gustibus D-4, Str. Marcel Iancu 10, tel. (+4) 0744
52 01 06/(+4) 021 211 14 49, www.degustibus.ro.
Located in a lovely house (which was built in 1898, neglected
for decades then entirely renovated when De Gustibus moved
in) this is a good Italian serving a good range of dishes, of
which we particularly liked the fantastic crab risotto and the
saltimbocca fillet. There is pizza if thats your thing, and the
light desserts a good way to end the evening. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . PLSW
Memories C-5, Str. Batistei 16, tel. (+4) 031 808 08
80/(+4) 0770 88 88 88, rezervari@restaurantmemories.
ro, www.restaurantmemories.ro. As central as you like, this
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place serves possibly the best lunchtime deal in Bucharest: a set menu for just 19 lei. Even in the evening the standard off the menu
prices are far from high for what is some very good food indeed. A welcome bargain. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 09:00 01:00. . PLESW
Modigliani Pasta/ Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. The
InterContinentals showpiece restaurant is gem. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, the Italian stakes continue to get
ratcheted up another notch, and it is all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the steaks are of the finest Argentine
beef or Romanian pork, and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer. Prices are high-ish, but reflect quality, and by no
means reach the levels of a few other places we could mention. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . PLW
Ristorante Il Calcio A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4) 0729 57 48 02, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to Trattoria Il Calcio? Yes.
For this is a ristorante, a notch up from trattoria. Expect a more refined menu and surroundings, but the same warm, friendly service and
great value (if pricier) food youve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys. This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada Clucerului,
quickly becoming something of a magnet for great places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
Robertos C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21.
Its back. After a complete refit Robertos is bigger and better than ever. It now boasts an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a
private dining room. The food is simple, classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of
Italian regions. The Gualtiero Machesi risotto with gold leaf is amazing, and the baccala with mash sensational. Its not cheap, but
prices reflect the high quality. In a nutshell, its worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Q Open 06:00 - 11:00,
12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch from 12:00, 185 lei/pers, 92 lei/children between six and 18, free for children under
six. . PTGSW
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right
here, not least the bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was
memorable. There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well
worth a look. QOpen 12:00 -24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLSW
Trattoria Il Calcio C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we have here is
the best use of perhaps the best location in the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit hit and miss but the good - if not
outstanding - Italian food at fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner. Stick to the pizzas, salads, have a little patience and
you will love the place. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Also at (C-4) Str. Mendeleev 14, (+4) 0722 13 42 99;(I-4) Str.
Delea Veche 36, tel. (+4) 0726 01 03 83; (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120, tel (+4) 0728 63 99 06. . PEGBSW
Trattoria Roma D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 114-116, tel. (+4) 021 210 81 57/(+4) 0722 32 37 34, www.trattoria-roma.ro.
Brilliant, truly brilliant, and we rarely give praise that high. It might nominally be an Italian but what people come to this place for is the seafood.
The huge plates of steaming mussels
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restaUrants
Carol I: The First King of Romania
Few visitors to Bucharest will leave without seeing the
enormous horseback statue of Carol I the first king
of modern Romania - which appeared in front of the
University Library in (B/C-5) Piata Revolutiei at the end
of 2010. Looking directly at the former Royal Palace (now
the National Art Museum, see left), the statue is one
of the largest in the city and unquestionably the most
prominently positioned. But who was this Carol chap?
Born Karl Eitel Friedrich Zephyrinus Ludwig of
Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen in Sigmaringen in southern
Germany in 1839, Karl was an officer in the Prussian army
until being invited by Romanian politician Ion Brtianu in
1866 to become the nascent countrys king. Romanias
own royal, the authoritarian Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza,
had been exiled after falling out with the countrys politicians and most powerful families earlier in 1866. Scouring Europe for a suitable (non-Romanian) replacement,
Brtianu sought the advice of Napoleon III, a relative
by marriage of the Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen family. It
was - allegedly - on Napoleon IIIs recommendation that
the young Karl was approached. Though reluctant, Karl
was encouraged by his family to accept the offer, and
Bratianu returned to Romania to make preparations.
Karls trip to Romania the next month was as bizarre
as his somewhat random selection as the countrys king.
Due to ongoing conflict between Prussia and the Austrian
Empire, Karl travelled incognito by railroad from Dsseldorf to Budapest, under the name of Karl Hettingen.
From Budapest he travelled by carriage, as there was
no railroad to Romania. As he walked across the border
onto Romanian soil, he was met by Brtianu, who bowed
before him and asked Karl to join him in a carriage.
On 10 May 1866, Karl entered Bucharest. The news
of his arrival had been transmitted through telegraph and
he was welcomed by a huge crowd eager to see the new
ruler. In Bneasa he was given the key to the city. That
day, rain fell, ending a long period of drought - a favourable sign. As he was crowned, Karl swore to guard the
laws of Romania, to maintain its rights and the integrity
of its territory Not yet able to speak Romanian, he took
the oath in French, but adopted the Romanian version of
his name, Carol.
In his 48 years on the throne, Carol can be considered
to have done rather well. He greatly assisted the cause of
Romanian independence from the Ottoman Empire - which
came in 1878 - raised the countrys prestige (not least
at the 1906 Grand Exhibition, held in the Bucharest park
which now carries his name), and - in the main - allowed
politicians to run the economy without interference. He
never forgot he was German, however, and his pet project,
the Peles Castle, Sinaia, was quite deliberately built in
German style, as a reminder of the kings origin. Carols
German roots also caused much tension at the outbreak
of World War I: his subjects were by and large sympathetic
to the French. As a result, Romania kept out of the war
until Carol died, in 1916.
47
48
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are top value, and theres fresh lobster (fresh as in they pick it
live out of a fish tank). Add in decent house wine at giveaway
prices, good pasta (a classic aglio, olio is recommended) and
you have a winner. The Eminescu location is our favourite place
in the city right now, and that from a city guide not meant to have
favourites... QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti
177, tel. (+4) 021 230 40 83 and (A-6) Str. D r. Lister 1, tel. (+4)
0766 33 42 24, (+4) 021 441 63 30. . PLS
Japanese
Benihana
B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand

Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, benihana@hojoplaza.ro,
http://www.hojoplaza.ro/en/
benihana. With cracking new menus specially put together
for the winter, this is a great time to come and try the vast
array of terrific Japanese specialities on offer at Benihana.
A staple on the Bucharest dining scene for some years now,
it is a tremendous mix of the new, the daring and the traditional. Expert chefs and staff will explain Japanese cuisine to
newcomers, and the chances are you will want to come more
than once. Great value, and perfect for big groups. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. . PTULSW
Sushi Ko Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping
City, ground floor), tel. (+4) 0758 03 80 05/(+4) 0744
34 44 44, www.sushiko.ro. Two wonderful restaurants. The
food is fantastic, and the extensive menu covers every area of
Japanese cuisine, from sushi to sashimi. The vibe is casual,
the set menus are great value, and there is an Old Town location
too. Staff are friendly and helpful, taking time out to explain the
finer points of Japanese dining to beginners. Both locations are
well worth a visit, and if you cant get there in person, theres
home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Also at (C-6) Str.
Stavropoleos 8, tel. (+4) 0758 08 84 00, Open 12:00 - 23:30,
Fri, Sat 12:00 -24:00. . PLVSW
Lebanese
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Terrific Lebanese
food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis
and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from
Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little
sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of
other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese
chef. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
Grenadine
B-5, Str. George Enescu 29, tel. (+4) 0732 98 47 38,
www.grenadine.ro. Taboule, fatoush, sumak and no fewer
than seven different kinds of hummus can start things off
here, before you head into the meaty part of the menu. The
Grenadine mixed grill is a tasty, hefty treat. Good salads,
sweet desserts and prices that are far cheaper than the city
centre location might otherwise demand. QOpen 10:00
-24:00. . PBSW

restaUrants
Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021 222
57 55, www.piccolomondo.ro. Lebanese food that is both
filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and well made.
Kebabs are one of the chefs strong points, and are very tasty
indeed. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe.
Reserve a table. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. . PVBSW
Mediterranean
Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80, tel. (+4) 0749 78 83

46/(+4) 031 437 97 29, www.studio-80.ro. For something
a bit different in a location well away from the bustle of the city
centre it is worth trying the fare on offer here at Studio 80. A
good range of food on offer, from good meats to fish and sea
food, and all done with a genuine Mediterranean twist. To p wine
list and prices are certainly reasonable. Worth the trip. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. . PLESW
Modern European
Cafe Athenee C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace

Hilton), MP-ta Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.
hiltonbucharest.com. The village pub, where the city comes
to meet and have a terrific lunch. The menu boasts a fantastic
shepherds pie, a burger long considered one of the best in
the city and a couple of desserts that will have you loosening
your belts. There is also a bites menu of substantial finger
food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of
beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now
as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime.
Q Open 08:00-24:00. . PSW
Heritage Restaurant C-4, Str. Polona 19, tel. (+4)
021 210 88 50, www.heritage-restaurant.eu. There is
still something of a mistaken idea amongst Bucharest gourmands that Heritage is a fitze kind of place, frequented by the
sunglasses crowd and such like. Let us assure you it is not. It
is quite simply one of Bucharests best restaurants, and as
such attracts a mixed crowd of people who like fantastic food
in a classy atmosphere, be they business partners, or families
enjoying a weekend dinner. Prices are not as high as you might
think. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Sun, and from December 23 - January 3. . PLW
Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson BLU), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.primerestaurant.ro. What is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant
recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the
world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we
have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of
foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple,
the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. And just about
everything else. Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth
every last penny. Q Open 18:00 - 23:30. . PLG
Warm, comforting
and filled with no stasia...
and that's just our beel'pits.
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fiftit hriiish pub ii n I Ifircibjmi. Jûljli JirJ in
WW and iciil gninfi sennft u'iih Iocs iifjfeit
food and i tine xitann
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utfice. ivJiy not come by. We'd love ro bee
you. Lh.wr>.
Montignac
NEW
Bistro Montignac B-5, Str. George Enescu 10, tel. (+4)

031 102 07 54/(+4) 0721 17 09 53, www.bistromontignac.ro. Named after nutrition-guru Michel Montignac,
the Montignac method is based on the idea that you can
eat yourself slim, as long as you avoid foods which are low
in sugar and follow a balanced diet that includes carbs, fats
and protein. Dont eat less, eat better, is the Montignac way.
At the (so far) only restaurant of its kind to open in Romania,
everything on the menu is Montignac approved, and given
that there are all sorts of treats you will quickly realise that
the place is not only for those who want to get slim. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PVGSW
*THEfc
-TRAFALGAR
-GREAT BRITISH PuaIlUMftM n TU, IA l.l-i i HID LUIVJUJIH
49
Wouldn't it be great if your car was waiting for you when you arrived, all ready
to go? And wouldn't it be great if you didn't have to queue to pick it up, or repeat
your details again each time you rented?
We've tried harder once again and have brought you Avis Preferred, the quickest
and easiest way to rent your car.
As a member of Avis Preferred, all you will need to do is show us your driving
licence, collect your keys, and go. No fuss, no forms, no membership charge.
One card, many benefits.
By signing up to free membership of Avis Preferred, you will enjoy a range of
exclusive benefits:
Pre-prepared paperwork
Priority Avis Preferred counters
No signature required, just show your driving licence
Best car in group reserved
Parked in best parking bay
Easy to update customer profile
Dedicated reservation number
Our 3 Minute Promise - get your keys in under 3 minutes or we'll give you 30
(not applicable for all countries)
Two complimentary vouchers - free car upgrade and 15 money off
We are continually expanding the number of locations that offer Avis Preferred,
and looking for new ways to deliver an even faster service. You can sign-up on
line, at www.avispreferred.eu or submit a request for a sign-up form to any
Avis location.
Your car is waiting, so you don't have to!

Enjoy a clear road to your car. Gone are the queues, the paperwork, the
waiting around. Simply go to an Avis Preferred desk, showyour driving
licence, collect your keys and go. Just another way We Try Harder
to make your car rental as easy as possible.
+40219876
reservations@avis.r
o www.avis.ro
AVIS
We try
ha rder.
52
restaUrants
Duck breast with sweet cabbage, smoked fish and potato
salad, baked carp with garlic and mamaliga are just a few
of the great dishes you will find on the menu. Add in a bright,
breezy setting, good service, visinata by the glass and you
have a terrific new place to eat and spend most of the evening.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . g [@ ffl \J\ ffl ma
Bucatarasul cel Dibaci C-6, Str. Olteni 3, tel. (+4) 021
320 32 69/(+4) 0722 66 33 79, www.bucatarasul.ro.
Keep it simple and let the food do the talking. T his place is a
smallish restaurant, painted bright white with colour supplied
by some rather fetching art on the walls. And the food of
course, which is sublime: Romanian food done well and taken
to new levels of inventiveness, a notch above your standard
Romanian eatery. The signature dish, the Tigaia Bucatarasul
cel Dibaci, is a great mix of meats and vegetables, served in
a huge portion with mamaliga. Magnificent. Open 10:00
-22:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. . (H [P] [0 [J] OB
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17, www.casadoina.ro. Alma mater of Romanian restau
rants, an integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy
place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by
charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Open
11:00 - 24:00. . g [@ \J\ ffl OB
Romanian
Bistro Atheneu C-5, Str. Episcopiei 3, tel. (+4) 021 313

49 00, www.bistronet.ro. Also known as the thinking mans
La M*ma. If you want very good Romanian food cooked slowly
and with great care then this is where to come. There is no
menu as such: simply choose one of the delicious specials
chalked up on a blackboard that the pretty waitresses will
bring to your table. There is usually a good ciorba or soup,
and more often than not a lamb dish: if they have the lamb
stew when you visit, make sure you order it, its great. Reservations usually needed Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . PNGS
Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021
650 50 00, www.bistrojaristea.ro. From the people who
have long brought you some of the citys finest Romanian
food comes this place, a contemporary eatery for friends.
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae

Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/
ic/1/en/hotel/BUHHA/dining. Breakfast, lunch or din
ner on the boulevard; Magheru, that is. If this place doesnt
occupy the best people-watching spot in the whole of the
city, then we dont know where does. The menu has gone
more local of late: you can now enjoy exemplary sarmale
and mamaliga here, as well as a brilliant iahnie de fasole
with ciolan (pork knuckle with beans to you and me). Also
still home of the best brunch in town. Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30
- 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175
lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12
half price. . g @ [@ \J\ ms
Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6, Bdul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65
16, dragos.zamfir@goldentuliptimes.com, www.
timesevents.ro. The prawn spring rolls we ate here were
just about the crispiest, lightest and tastiest we have come
across in Bucharest. We couldnt make better at home
(and we tried). There are plenty of other treats on a varied
international (with a hint of Romanian) menu here too. This
restaUrants
You arr? more ihan welcome to enjoy our cuisinel

Str. Brraoianu iu\ 19
FtiL HO 21 315 33 75
is a real surprise of a restaurant: do not let the hotel location

put you off. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. . PLGBSW
La Taifas B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212
77 88, www.bistronet.ro. The thinking mans La Mama. La
Taifas means having a chat and thats exactly what you and
your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We
remain convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton
on Str. Episcopiei was better, but the new location is spacier,
and hosts more regular musical accompaniments. The food
is great, and booking is still essential. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLEBS
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52,
tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/(+4) 0721 96 19 36, stabiliment@jaristea.ro, www.jaristea.ro. This is that rarity in
Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian
restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated
dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania
Mob: MO 721 200 800
www.vaira.ro
where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that
you will need to phone ahead and ask then to start preparing
it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage
wines Romania has ever produced. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
. PLEW
Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
24 80/(+4) 021 211 13 34, www.restaurantnicoresti.
ro. Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews of
Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian
restaurants in the city, and given that the service - always
our biggest problem with the place - has improved no end
of late, we think it is about time we give it another chance.
We suggest you do the same, for the food has always been
53
very good. The ciolan de porc (pork knuckle) with beans is

legendary: ask anyone in the city! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. . PLE
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20,
rossetya@gmail.com, www.rossetya.ro. Romanian food
is never going to win any awards for originality, it being a mix
of various Balkan cuisines, yet Rossetya tries harder than
most to take it to new levels. As such this is as upmarket as
you can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Tr y
the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed
in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying
is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs
something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00,

restaurantvatra@yahoo.com, www.vatra.ro. We have
been eating here for years and we cant recommend the
place highly enough. Yo u really will have go a long way to find
better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced
restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park,
expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLS
Violetas Vintage Kitchen C-5, Str. Batistei 23, tel.
(+4) 021 310 06 81, (+4) 0722 52 56 43, restaurant@

violetas.ro, www.violetas.ro. The concept is great: very
good Romanian food with a nod towards the vegetarian
served off a menu that changes daily. Yo u can check it online
and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Alas,
the service can be a little hit and miss. On one visit we were
54
restaUrants
given our menus, then ignored. We gave them five minutes, then ten, then 15... then we got up and left. Next time though all was well.
We hope the second experience was the regular experience, for the place is lovely and just so un-Bucharest you want to squeeze it and
hug it. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PBSW
Seafood
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. One of three new places
opened recently at the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy
in any weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef will happily
cook to order. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PEBSW
Mesogios C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021 313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, cezar@ mesogios.ro,
www.mesogios.ro. A businessmans dream. While Mesogios certainly doesnt get any cheaper, the high standards here have
ensured that it remains packed with happy punters. Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to seafood has not
waned for one moment, and we never leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid,
lobster, prawns of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of other wet treats. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. . PSW
Osho Fish B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021 311 88 26/(+4) 021 311 88 69, office@osho-restaurant.ro, www.oshorestaurant.ro. Doing for Bucharests fish supper scene what Osho did for meat. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime, fresh
seafood cooked and prepared simply,
with real class and with great care for the natural flavour of the fish. Prices reflect the high quality of the raw material, so charge it
to expenses if you can, for this is a faultless establishment we have grown rather fond of. Get in there. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sat
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:30.
. PVBSW
Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan 16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, www. taverna-
lazavat.ro. To p little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking
menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list (for all
budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PS
South American
Villa Rodizio C-5, Str. I. L. Caragiale 32, tel. (+4) 021 211 80 78, office@villarodizio.ro, www.villarodizio. ro. A brand
new South American churrascaria (thats a steak house to you and me) serving prime Brazilian steaks alongside a fine selection of
Mexican and Argentinian dishes. The place itself is a splendid turn of the century (the 19th, that is) villa renovated to within an inch of
its life and looking quite stunning. The interiors have to be seen to be believed. The stained-glass skylight being the (quite literal)
highpoint. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTLEBW
Steak Houses
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021
403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW
restaUrants
Marriott joins the Bucharest chophouse revolution with the
opening of the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can expect a very American
steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef
imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in
at nearly a kilo and costing almost 100 - is the pick of the
steaks, but there is much more besides, including broiled
lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection
of new world wines, and they open early for breakfast: the
JW steak and eggs is a great way to start the day. Q
Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat
06:30 -11:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. Sunday
Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 185 lei/pers, children between six and
twelve half price, children under six free. . PLSW
Osho B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021 568 30
31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Biggest, baddest, meanest
and downright bestest chophouse in town. Oh yes, this is a
butchers shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you
would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the
menu though, such as a top burger and tangy mutton chops,
and take note that all the meat is Romanian. We have to admit
to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the
location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than
reasonable considering you get the best of the best. One for
the wish list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PVBSW
Turkish
Golden Falcon
C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4) 021 314 28 25,
www.goldenfalcon.ro. Still the greatest kebab house in the
land, and still packing in the punters who come back time and
again. There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will
parade a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before
coming round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then
send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually always
go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all of them are
well worth trying. Great desserts too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVS
Urban Contemporary
Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3, Str. Banu Antonache

40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13/(+4) 0743 66 17 82,
www.madamepogany.ro. Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious,
modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur
without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull
off in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that
whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is a
great restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 24:30, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat

11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. . PLESW
Vegetarian
Casa Satya A-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0788
78 81 11/(+4) 021 222 12 59, www.satya.ro. The
concept here is Ayurveda, as in the mix life and science.
Ayuvedic principles have long been applied to alternative
medicine, now it is developing into cuisine, and that is what
we have here. Everything on the menu is toxin free, so no
meat, but there is plenty of seafood, and everything is made
with only fresh, organic ingredients. Amazingly, that does not
mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the
poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. The
toilets by the way are amazing. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. .
PTVGBSW
+40766 526791
www.lHvema-JflZBvat.ra
55
56
CaFs
NEW
Cafe Antipa by Artex A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 1, tel. (+4) 0730 03 01 40. Bucharests best museum (well, a contender for
that title, anyway) also has its full-on cafe, right inside the museum building. Currently attracts a cool, trendy crowd of young arty
types and coffee-break mums, you will love it and want to stay all day: it could just be the most peaceful, relaxing coffee fix destination
in the land. Open 09:00 - 24:00. DESa
Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, events@goldentuliptimes.com, www.timesevents.
ro. Free Wif i with your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and
need their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that
you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are. Open 07:30 -24:00. D[p](Do
Cafe Verona C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 61/(+4) 0732 00 30 60, office@ carturesti.ro,
www.carturesti.ro. Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and
cocktails too. This is the kind of place you come to in order to meet friends, and then end up staying all day and making new friends.
Also puts on events, from book launches to photo and art exhibitions. Its a one-stop cultural centre and something of a second
home for many regulars. Well worth a visit. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. gOB
Caffe & Latte B-5, B-dul Schitu Mgureanu 35, tel. (+4) 021 314 38 34, office@caffelatte.ro, www.caffelatte.ro.
The food, the coffee and the dcor all stay more or less the same - and yet still they come. What does get better here is the cake
selection: it seems to improve year after year. The location is great of course, right opposite the nicest park in the city centre, and the
staff are young, friendly and multilingual, eager to help out lost tourists and give him a good coffee before he sets off on his way.
Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 9:00 - 22:30. [jS] E3 (D
For details of restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs in Bucharests Old Town, see
pages 72-87.
Home Delivery
Fabio Pizza Tel. (+4) 021 311 71 22/(+4) 021 322 07 22, www.fabiopizza.ro. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza company.
Great prices, cheerful delivery chaps and terrific pizza (if you choose the thin and crispy base, baza subtire in Romanian). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Jerrys D- -6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 40 40/(+4) 021 425 15 15, www.jerryspizza.ro.
Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to Jerrys than pizza though these days. Hot chicken wings, subs and salads, for a
start.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Jerrys at Night Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00, tel. (+4) 0722 33
41 41. PVS
Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, www.restaurantnan-jing.ro. Yes! The Nan
Jing now does home delivery. Just head to their website for the full home delivery menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733 50 07 50, rezervari@orasul-interzis.ro, www.orasul-inter-zis.ro. Home delivery
arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. PVB
Trenta Pizza Tel. (+4) 021 9645, www.trentapizza. ro. This is the real deal. Thin, crispy pizzas served piping hot to your door for
peanuts. They do the thick-style pizzas too: make sure you ask for baza subtire - thin base. They will also bring you a tomato sauce to
accompany the pizza: the hot one is genuinely hot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
Wu Xing Tel. (+4) 021 222 21 26/(+4) 0722 83 03 30, www.wuxing.ro. Professional, if sligh tly pricey Chinese deli very service. Its not quite
Chinese as you know it from home, but pretty close. Good option when you cant be bothered to cook or leave the house. You can even order
online. And it all comes in funky white boxes. Q Open 10 - 01:00.
Yin-Yang B-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 38, tel. (+4) 021 231 41 32/(+4) 0723 31 09 03, www.yinyangres-taurant.ro. Sometimes
delivers the best Chinese food, and sometimes definitely doesnt. Take a shot in the dark, try them (fairly fast service) and you may be
hooked. Very affordable and good duck dishes - just check the website for an online menu. QOpen 09:30 - 22:50, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 23:20. . VS
CaFs
57
Green Tea D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320 93 96/(+4) 0749 09 02 02, www.greentea.ro. Magnificent. We know
that there have been tea houses in Bucharest before, but none were ever like this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have all been lovingly
decorated in a different theme (one is like your favourite Grans front room, another is like a country house) the list of teas available is as long
as your arm. And yes, besides taking tea here, you can buy just about all of the teas in the shop. Brilliant, find someone special and go there
immediately. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PVGBSW
La Gallette A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00. Classy cafe and patisserie at the
Pullman, a popular choice with guests and office workers from the World Trade Center. The range of pastries is just about second to none
in Bucharest, while the coffees are great value for what is after all a five-star hotel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. PLBW
Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the
great things about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also from part. Yo u will find Readers on the
ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The
breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well
separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Nice. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. PEBSW
Serendipity Tea House C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 12, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 00/(+4) 0743 28 33 42,
events@serendipity-tea.ro, www.serendipity-tea.
ro. Tea, and lots of it. There are more than 55 types of tea available, including the trademark Serendipity, an aromatic yet fruity
green tea with more than a hint of strawberries. A quiet location just off an otherwise busy central street make this a superb choice
for long, peaceful afternoons reading a good book with a great cup of tea or two. Oh, and we should point out that the coffee menu
is not bad either. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. TGW
Tekaffe B-4, Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels), tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, andrei.cristudor@hellohotels.ro. The in-house cafe
at the Hello Hotel is as smart, cheap and good value as the hotel itself. Serves good coffee, pastries and the like, and all with
added Wifi. A more than decent meeting place. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PLSW
The Livingroom Cafe C-5, B-dul Hristo Botev 3, tel. (+4) 0758 07 08 84, thelivingroomcafe@gmail.com,
www.thelivingroomcaffe.com. Always been a favourite place of ours, not least because it does look a little like, well. a living
room. It is the kind of place that you want to stay all night in, feet up on the sofa watching television and knocking back coffee and
cocktails. They also do a great breakfast, and a superb club sandwich. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PLSW
Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80/(+4) 021 317 83 42, office@tonka.ro.
This place has indeed got soul, and plenty else besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes the perfect aperitivo
spot when the sun goes down, then gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter. Theres a good
internet cafe in the basement. Q Open 24hrs. RBSW
Located urdef the Carturesti Bookstore, the "cuhural melting pal" DT Bucharest.
Romanian and international wines by the grass, tea fi coffee,
cocktails. Artrtur Verona Slreet. no,i3. near !he Palcln Cinema. (or
reservations. ODJ 0 j'32 DO iDS&'ED
nightLiFe
the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by
the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous
pint of Guinness). Packed with business leaders and expats
most evenings it is hard not to love it. It is one of our regular
haunts. Open August 17:00-02:00, September 10:00
-02:00. HBO
Fourteen
C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 14, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4)
0730 47 22 33, www.fourteen.ro. Reopened and better
than ever, this English-owned and run bar stroke club is for
a more discerning crowd: one fed up with the regular, fitze
dominated Bucharest nightlife scene. Expect a very good mix of
music (1980s pop and electro and Brit Pop being the staples)
and plenty of theme nights. Happy hour every evening from
17:00-19:00, and a popular venue for private parties. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. (S) U)
Bars
By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little
else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks
may be available). By Pubs we mean venues where you
can drink and get half-decent food.
Dark Bl Bar /Light Bl Terrace /Bl Lounge Bar B4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.bla-lounge.ro. A collection of bars and
lounges from the Radisson, popular with an after-work crowd
who view it as a decent alternative to the English Bar in the
Hilton across the road. Expect contemporary design, great
bar food (try the duck blinis) and cracking cocktails. Add in a
splendid range of agreeable wines and you have a winner. We
think the Light Bl Terrace (fully enclosed in glass at this time
of year) is the most stunning smoking room in the city. Q
Bl Lounge Bar 08:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-24:00; Light
Bl Terrace 09:00 - 02:00, Dark Bl Bar 17:00-02:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PLBW
Downtown C-4, Str. Mendeleev 32 - 34, MP-ta Romana,
tel. (+4) 021 314 86 06, www.downtown.ro. Lively, central
and still hugely popular after almost a decade, Downtown is
not the kind of place for those of you looking for a quiet night
out. If, on the other hand, you want to seriously party, then it
is a good choice. All sorts of theme nights and parties go on
here. It has in the past held bikini nights. Make of that what
you will. Q Bar Open 09:00 - 20:00, Club Open 20:00 04:00.
PVEW
Fratelli
C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 311 66 76, www.fratelli.ro. Calling itself a bar and
lounge, there are certainly enough comfy sofas here to qualify
it in the lounge category. That is if you can get in of course.
Though we can usually blag our way past the fellas on the
door, we know people who have been told its full even though
they knew it damn well wasnt. Whats more it isnt really a
fitze kind of place. It has its Starck furniture and resident
posers of course but in general the crowd that makes it in is
more business than biznes. Worth trying to get in. Open
16:00 - 01:00. (H (T)
Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Legendary hotel bar in the lobby of the Eenter,
which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps.
Now its merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in
superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again a decent place to spend
time. Open 08:00 01:00. g \P\ {J\ OB
English Bar C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace

Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. This little
corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue
and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as
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Ramayana Cafe A-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11, tel.
(+4) 021 317 16 81, www.ramayana.ro. Looking like a cross
between a Maharajas bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in
Delhi, this cafe and cocktail bar is quite f rankly unique. You will not
find anywhere in Bucharest quite so startling in design, nor will
you find a better place to bring a secret date for a little tete-a-tete.
With more nooks and crannies than your grandmothers country
house, pull up a cushion, sup on a hookah pipe and drink a green
tea. Exceptional. Open 24 hrs. (H(T][j]OB
Sky Bar B-3, Calea Dorobanti 155, tel. (+4) 0724 75 92
27, www.skybar.ro. Leaving aside the disappointment that
Sky Bar - despite being on the roof - is actually only on the fifth
floor, its a classy little place for the monied set which comes here
to drink cocktails and dine on very good food. The salads are
outstanding, as are the steaks and there is plenty of buffet-style
finger food if you just want nibbles with your drinks. Its corporate
and business like but makes a change from drinking in yet another
cellar in Old Town. Open 1000 - 0200. (H [J] OB
Victoria Club C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel
Continental), tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Elegant English bar and cigar lounge that
- with its gorgeous leather armchairs - immediately reminded
us of our favourite bar in Vienna (which shall rename nameless). And thats exactly what weve found ourselves doing
here: its a great place to get away from the bustle of the city
for a bit, to enjoy the fine selection of English teas (theres
good coffee too) and later on one of more than 100 spirits.
Oh, and they have a top selection cigars too, we should add.
Open 09:00 - 24:00. (H [p] () OB
Yellow Bar C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 10, |M]Universitate,
tel. (+4) 0725 77 80 00. Still popular after all these years,
and lets face it: its been around as long as us. This is a
great, central place to relax and listen to a few good tunes,
unwind and feel nicely cut-off from the street above. Flashy
leather/brightly coloured-but-somehow-ambient decor. Top
leather sofas perfect for canoodling. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. g [@ m W
Pubs
Cafeneaua Actorilor C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2, |M)Universitate, tel. (+4) 0721 90 08 42, www.cafeneauaacto
rilor.ro. Eternally popular late night choice of the actors who
work in the National Theatre next door, this legendary bar
remains a favourite of ours too. Loads of quiet corners for secret
tete-a-tetes, you could conduct all sorts of affairs from down here.
Not easy to find, the entrance is on the northern side of the
National T heatre (opposite the InterContinental). Open
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 05:00. (5) LB LB
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Dubliner A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, tel. (+4) 021 260
26 78, www.irishpubs.ro. Legendary boozer in the sense
that it was the first real pub to open in Bucharest (back in
1995), the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school
expats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old
Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken
pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers
a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky T V. QOpen 09:00
-02:00. PEBW
Edgars Pub C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 9, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 314 18 43. At lunchtime office boys and
students mix happily as they tuck into great sandwiches and
salads, while in the evening a similarly mixed crowd of good
time people enjoys the laid back atmosphere always on offer
here. It gets crowded downstairs at weekends, but that just
adds to the fun. Recently given a thorough makeover. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PNSW
La Calderon 80 C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4) 021
212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 20, www.lacalderon80.ro.
With its wooden interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young
people clustered round big tables, La 80 does little to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar establishments. Reasonable food and prices. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PLVBW
Lost Society C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 21, tel. (+4) 0769 63
54 93/(+4) 0726 71 82 94, www.lostsociety.ro. A pub
and, well, theatre we guess opposite Cinema Pro. A decent
place to have a drink, especially if sat in one of the comfy
red velvet sofas in the windows, but there is more than drink
to this place. It hosts live comedy of the Romanian stand-up
variety, theatre and music: there is usually an event on every
night. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PJLEBW
59
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60
NEW
Old Nick Pub C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 88 (Piata Lahovari),

|M]P-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 52 51 50, www.oldnickpub.
ro. Three-level venue in Piata Lahovari, featuring a club downstairs
(open until 4am), with a pub on the ground floor and a cafe on
the first. T he pub is great, unsurprising when you find out that it
is run by the same people who have for ten years operated the
legendary Old Nick Pub in Sinaia. Besides decent drinks at decent
prices there is a good bar food menu, and the cafe upstairs comes
complete with art on the walls (for sale, we believe) is well worth
a visit. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (H \J\ [J] OB
Shift C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211
22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Its doubtful that youve seen any
thing like this place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian
restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous,
and has been packed since opening day with the hippest and
coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest
chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about everybody
else) love it. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (S) [] oa
White Horse B-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4)
021 231 27 95, www.whitehorse.ro. The White Horse
has been around so long it should probably consider going
out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in
surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the
ordinary people variety, as well as group of rowdy expats.
There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with
bar snacks served down, and though we have always loved
the square bar. Open 11:00 - 01:00. g (T) [] oa
Clubs & Discos

Bucharests club scene is dynamic and one of the best
in this part of Europe. There is just about something for
every taste, from mega-clubs bringing in top foreign DJs
each week to local live music venues.
BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a fairly
non-descript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but
once in, Wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great
music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is plenty of
space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets
are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave cursing your
luck that it is only open twice a week. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLE
Club Bamboo D-2, Str. Tuzla 50, tel. (+4) 0726 22 62
66/(+4) 0723 22 62 66, www.bambooclub.ro. Super
fitze club where only the best looking and the best dressed
stand any chance of getting in. If you can blag your way past
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Vice Advice
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops
per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you
could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital
of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that
prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it
certainly isnt, despite any and all appearances.
This being Romania however, the law is more a minor
obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you
can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you
like, though discretion remains essential.
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically
have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not
exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend)
is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at
these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from
simple hand assistance to full body massage from one,
two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around
50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious
establishments.
The second (and not-always-above-board) option
is to si mpl y h ead for a brothel (sure l y erotic nightclub?
Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in
seedy publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act
mainly as fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very
dodgy, and often quite dangerous businessmen. After
sitting yourself down at a table you will be served
expensive drinks, before being joined by some very bored
and not always attractive young ladies (most of
Romanias best-looking prostitutes are allegedly plying
their trade in Germany and the Czech Republic). These
girls sometimes lap dance for you, and always try to
convince you to buy them cocktails (in fact orange juice
with an umbrella, usually costing about 15). After half an
hour of bored conversation you will be asked if you would
like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually a ro om
above, or even in , th e nigh t clu b itse lf. For a n h ou r of
whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100,
as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of the
tab you have already run up of course.
But be careful. Not all of these night clubs are worth
your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical
harm. One such establishment, allegedly, is Stars Night
Club on Strada Ion Campineanu, opposite the Novotel. A
recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group
of American soldiers were recently beaten up here after
refusing to pay a bill of 3,000. Approach all night clubs
with caution.
The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one
of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality
city guides found around town. These escorts are usually
unattractive prostitutes who charge 150 upwards for
sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old
with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large
everything) are commonplace, and you should really think
twice before calling them.
BAVARIB
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62
nightLiFe
For details of restaurants, cafes,
bars and clubs in Bucharests
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 72-87.
improvements in bar efficiency also now mean it does not take
all night to get a drink. We love it. Q Open 14:00 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00 - 06:00. PESW
Coyote Cafe B-4, Calea Victoriei 48-50 (Pasajul Victoriei), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 34 87/(+4)
0724 01 11 35, office@coyotecafe.ro, www.coyotecafe.ro. Coyote is a loud, proud music bar which sets new
standards for live music and good times. A huge warren of a
venue, good rock music - sometimes provided by the owners
themselves - and the right kind of crowd. Very nice indeed.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
-04:00. Closed Mon. PE
the staff you will enter a world where poverty is a dirty word:
only the richest Romanians come here, and their dress sense
is as good or bad as you can imagine depending on your
taste. Music is clubby, friendly house, loud enough to dance
to but mellow enough to permit conversation. QOpen 23:00
-06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEB
Control Club C-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei),
tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, rezervari@control-club.ro,
www.control-club.ro. This place tops our list of clubs for
people who do not like clubs. Its big, bigger than most in the
city, and the two different zones (one especially for live music)
have been laid out well. The music in the evenings is always
live, be it a band or DJ, and it is always a pleasing, non-clubby
mix of indie hits, a bit of rock and 70s disco. Where else in
Bucharest will you see a Joy Division tribute band? Recent
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Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22, (+4) 0729 19 18 55/(+4) 0721
91 82 79, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that goes from
strength to strength. Still the best cocktail bar this side of
the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food too: you
could spend your whole life in here. The draw though remain
the participatory cocktails, some of which involve fire, and a
few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet.
They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian
girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest
place in Bucharest. Yo u will love it. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 07:00. Club Open 22:00 - 04:00. PE
El Comandante Primer D-5, Str. Sf. Stefan 13, tel.
(+4) 0729 73 30 42, www.elcomandanteprimer.ro. El
Comandantes empire continues to grow apace. This is the
latest venue to carry the name, below the La Historia 2 bistro
which belongs to the same people. Expect live music acts a
couple of nights a week of a very high quality, the same young,
successful but non-fitze crowd as at La Historia and up at the
original El Comandante, and reasonably priced drinks. QOpen
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PLEW
Eleven C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, tel. (+4) 0751
11 11 15, info@eleven.com.ro, www.eleven.com.ro.
City-centre club lauding itself as an oasis of luxury. Leather
sofas, purple cushions, Svarovski crystal, clever lighting: its
that sort of luxury. Music is fairly mainstream, clubby house,
provided by a live DJ. There are special events at least once
a week, whether its a theme night or a guest DJ shipped in
from Italy. Given the luxury angle drink prices are accessible
and theres no entrance fee. Tr y a bit with your dress though.
Trainers a no-no. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PW
El Grande Comandante D-4, Str. Viitorului 26, tel.
(+4) 0728 55 60 43, office@elgrandecomandante.ro,
www.elgrandecomandante.ro. Socialists with an interest
in rock music of the world unite! Despite killing lord knows how
many people, Che remains cool, and all those who blithely
wear his t-shirt will love this little rock club, dedicated to the
mans memory, with portraits at 10, 12 and 2 oclock. If you
CiMtuL'cni area. Open Si|iLiir
T:|+4)0727BS1 111
Su. Conrad* NT
nightLiFe
63
can leave aside the politics, then its actually quite good. It is nice to hear music which doesnt thump, thump, thump, and the warren of
little rooms is probably great for plotting the downfall of the capitalist system. Drinks are cheap. Revolutionary! QOpen 21:00 06:00. Closed Mon. PLE
Expirat/Other Side B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4/Str. Lip-scani 5, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28, www.expirat.org. Two clubs (almost)
in one. There are two entrances to the same building (on the corner of Brezoianu and Lipscani, underneath Whispers), both of which are
enjoyable venues that are a real hit with young party goers of all backgrounds. For the record Expirat (entrance on Lipscani) is the more
mainstream club, while The Other Side of Expirat (entrance on Brezoianu) is more edgy, funky and simply - in our opinion - better. See
you there. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PEW
Joy Pub B-5, Str. George Enescu 25, tel. (+4) 0755 56 97 82, www.joypub.ro. Club which hosts all sorts of events from
stand-up comedy to theatre and live music of all stripes: rock, folk, jazz. Definitely a sound choice for those of you looking for a more
cerebral, grown up and less rowdy crowd than found elsewhere. Drinks are a decent price and service is surprisingly good for these
parts. QOpen 16:00
-05:00. PEW
Jukebox Club E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 021 322 66 10/(+4) 021 323 70 84, www.clubjukebox.ro. Smashing live music
club. Expect good - mainly local but often foreign
-live acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably big name
performing at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very
good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends
looking for a great night out. Yo u can eat here too: theres a
restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned Romanian food
on site. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PLVEBSW
Kristal Glam Club Sos Pipera 48, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, www.clubkristal.ro. Its moved. A bit further out of town than it
used to be, it is still the number one venue in the city for top international DJs, who play here before they play anywhere else in
Romania. The cavernous interior doesnt have the intimacy or the garish decor of the old place, but the size of the new Kristal, and
the concave roof, mean it doesnt feel too claustrophobic even when half the city turns up to dance. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. LE
Kulturhaus
C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kul-turhaus.ro. Good riddance Twice, wilkommen Kulturhaus. A nakedly noncommercial club that attracts a nakedly (though not naked, except on fetish nights!) non-commercial crowd on two levels offering hard
rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live
band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you will have to get your
sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEB
Music Club
C-6, Str. Baratiei 31, tel. (+4) 0720 88 71 15/(+4) 021 314 61 97, www.music-club.ro. Just about the best live music venue
in Bucharest right now, Music Club is where youll find a great resident band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your
favourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians who have
quickly made this place their preferred haunt. Very nice indeed. Be prepared to have a very good time. QOpen 22:30 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PE
64
nightLiFe
House of Rock n Roll
Live Concerts
every Friday and Saturday
Karaoke Party
Galea Victonei 48-50 c oyote
every Tuesday, Wednesday,
Thursday and Sunday
c afe .1 i vem u sic

coyotecaterD^CyBhoo.com
021.311.34.37 I 0724.011.135
www.coyott'Giift'.ro
Rooms C-4, Str. Mendeleev 28-30, tel. (+4) 0730 07

66 67, events@therooms.ro, www.therooms.ro.
By day a cafe and lounge, by night a bar and club, Rooms
might well want to be the place to be, but presently suf fers for not really knowing exactly what it is. Cafe? Bar?
Lounge? None of the above. It is a collection of rooms in
a grand-ish villa, all decorated individually and expensively,
but not all with taste. By night the crowd that throngs here
is young: anyone over about 35 will almost certainly feel
old here, we know we did. Q Open 09:00 - 03:00.
Club Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PBW
The Gang C-3, Calea Floreasca 111-113, tel. (+4) 0733

97 52 77, www.thegang.ro. You wanna be in my gang?
Perhaps the best uber-club in Bucharest. Its the usual mix
of luxury and chic (the decor is in fact in very good taste: the
mix of colours is well done, and not over-the-top as in so many
other places) attracting a cashed-up crowd of young party
people listening to groovy club sounds provided by local and
international DJs. There is live music now and again too, as
well as a regular selection of theme nights. A taxi ride from
the city centre. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. PLEW
Shade Club C-5, B-dul Magheru 24, tel. (+4) 0731 06

06 06, rezervari@clubshade.ro, www.clubshade.ro. Its
the newest place in the city and as such its hip, trendy and
very cool, though the crowd is older than you might expect:
no kiddlywinks here. Besides DJs playing funky sounds there
are regular live events, with top local and even foreign bands.
O ff to a good start it is to be hoped that this place lasts the
distance. So many like it have come and gone in the
past. Q Open 23:00 - 06:00, Thu (announced events
only). Closed Tue, Wed. PEW
The Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor,

tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26/(+4) 021 313 55 92, www.
tscarena.ro. Currently the best place to see good local
bands. Looking (inside) very much like a, well. silver church
(albeit one which has dropped plenty of acid), its a cavernous
venue with terrific acoustics and it is this mix of big club/small
concert hall that gives it the edge over some other venues.
So good is the sound that the biggest local bands are playing
here simply for the hell of it. A winner. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00.
Entrance 20 lei. PUE
Studio Martin
B-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 61, tel. (+4) 0733 62
78 46/(+4) 0722 39 92 28, bobo@studiomartin.ro,
www.studiomartin.ro. Legendary cinema and night spot
now operated by the lovely people at The Mission. Theres
high quality music from serious DJs for serious people most
Friday and Saturday nights. More often than not youll find a
top name European DJ on the bill. So popular is this place now
that getting in can be a challenge: get tickets for the biggest
gigs in advance when you can. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW
|[ III 14 I MASS.Mrl
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JV <+4"f 0726.048.7
Europes Smoking Section

In May 2011, flying in the face of what the rest of the
civilised world is up to, Romania actually softened its
existing anti-smoking legislation. In fact, to all intents
and purposes, there will soon be no more anti-smoking
rules in Romania. This really is The Smoking Section
of Europe.
You see, while smoking will as planned now be
theoretically outlawed in all public spaces (thats
the headline which they will send to the EU), the owners
of those public spaces will now be able to override
the law and decide for themselves if a place is to be
designated s moking o r non-smoking. If a place decides
to designate itself as a smoking venue (and lets face
it, they almost all will) under the new law it will not even
have to have a non-smoking section. As such, in our
listings we have only included a non-smoking symbol
where a venue is completely non-smoking. (There arent
many). Otherwise, assume that venues will allow smoking
almost anywhere. While most will - for now - retain at least
a token non-smoking section, this can often be just one
table in a corner somewhere.
nightLiFe
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'I
65
I jvc musk-Zk^raiiLf
OLD NICK PUB
FSTARLISHUl 201)1 MNAIA
jLiLi/LxjStro/coffee &morc
hada Dionisic Lupu, nr S3: Bucuresb (piata Lahovari) rsvp: U3l -H6+I 5(
Tribute B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28
83, www.tribute.ro. Besides a fantastic resident band,
Tribute is also regularly host to a number of the best live acts
in the business, who love the atmosphere provided by a great
crowd and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement
of live music is what you are looking for, this is one first class
venue. Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its a
great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking
about where to move on to. Plan on staying late. Q
Open Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00, Wed 21:00 - 02:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PEW
Turabo Society Club Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0755
11 17 77/(+4) 0744 31 34 44, www.turabo-societyclub.
ro. Well, it had to happen. Purveyors of the trendiest cafes in
town open up a club that - guess what - becomes a massive
hit and the most fashionable in the city. Featuring some of the
sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here
are wild. The music is supplied by the worlds best DJs. Yo u
will need to take a taxi here, but then this is not the kind of
place for people who use public transport anyway... QOpen
23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLW
Jazz Clubs
The people of Bucharest like their jazz, and besides the
places we list here, you should also look out for regular
jazz concerts being put on at some of the cities other live
music venues, which we list under clubs.
Art Jazz Club C-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 23A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0731 64 59 18, adiandries@yahoo.fr,
www.artjazzclub.ro. Sometimes packed and bubbling over,
at other times less so but always smoky, Art Jazz Club puts
on as many jazz concerts as it can every week (usually three
or four). T he quality of the music is almost always good, and
the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area. Entrance is
actually through a small door next to a little car park behind
the Senate, rather than on Balcescu as the address suggests.
Open 17:00 08:00. PEW
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4

(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@
casinobucharest.ro, www.casinobucharest.ro.
Open 18:00 - 06:00. PL LB QD
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403
08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www.
grandcasinoromania.com. Open 24 hrs.
Havana Princess Casino C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 98 23,
www.worldofprincess.com. Open 24 hrs. PL
Palace Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, MVictoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 97 44/(+4) 0722 66 57 88,
office@casinopalace.ro, www.casinopalace.ro.
Open 24hrs. PL ffl () LTD
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel.
(+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4) 0720 22 74 66, platinum@
platinumcasino.ro, www.platinumcasino.ro. Open
24 hrs. PL LI]
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MP-ta
Romana, tel. (+4) 0372 76 34 45, www.queencasino.ro. Open 24 hrs. P @ (D L LTD W
Green Hours 22 Club Jazz Caf B-4, Calea Victoriei

120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/(+4) 0722 23 43 56, concerte@greenhours.ro, www.greenhours.ro. Legendary,
trendy, atmospheric jazz club, where its almost impossible
to find a table. Make sure you reserve in advance if you want
to sit down. There is live music and other arty stuff - including
theatre, comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings.
Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages, from 18-80,
its definitely a place you should visit once before leaving
Bucharest. Open 24hrs. PE (T) W
Casinos
66
what to see
Caruta cu paiate
Essential Bucharest
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days
should probably be the Historic Centre, or O l d To w n . We
have a feature on that very part of the city beginning on page
72, written in the from of a walk around the area.
Once you have ticked off Old Town, you can head for the
sights, museums, churches and buildings we list here. The
Peasant and Village Museums should take priority, as well
as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum.
While still the most famous building in the city and usually
top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/Palatul
Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for most, mainly
due to the stilted nature of the compulsory guided tour. Art
lovers - especially fans of religious art - should pencil in at
least an afternoon at the National Art Museum. Last but
not least, half a day at the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip
through Romanian literary, artistic, political and architectural
history.
Bellu Cemetery (Cimitirul Bellu) Calea Serban Voda
249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.
bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharests most
historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every
great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, musician
and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each
has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma
Caragiu, tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977).
Yo u could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by
profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You
should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps
the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s
in the style of the cathedral at Karlsbad (Karlovy Vary) and
Chances are youve seen this statue, admired it, but

then walked on having failed to grasp what it actually is, or what it signifies. Centrally located in front of
Romanias National Theatre (C-5, which is currently
being rebuilt), not 20 yards from the Bucharest Inter
Continental Hotel, the bronze Caruta cu paiate was
created by sculptor Ioan Bolborea in honour of Romanias
favourite playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. It was unveiled
in December 2010.
The statue features characters (Domnul Goe, Nae
Catavencu, Tache Farfuridi, amongst others) from Caragiales most famous plays, and was unveiled in December
2010. Next to the Caruta cu paiate is a seated bronze of
another character: Nenea Iancu Caragiale himself. Or is
it? Even Romanian literary academics argue as to whether
Nenea Iancu was or was not based on Caragiale himself.
Its worth noting that for a while (from 2002-2006), a
rath er d i f ferent statu e o f Ca ragial e s too d h ere, one which
can today be seen in front of Caragiales old house,
on S t rad a Maria Rosetti. Many locals claim that th e s ta
tue is in fact an old Lenin, with the Russian revolutionarys
head having been replaced with that of Caragiale. You can
read about it (in Romanian) here. We ourselves have no
idea if this urban myth is true or not. We kind of hope
that it is.
Caragiale - whose face appears on Romanias 100
lei banknotes - was born in 1859, and is probably best
remembered for his masterpiece of political manners, O
Scrisoare Pierduta (A Lost Letter). Other plays of note
include O Noapte Fortunoasa (Stormy Night) and O
Soacra (A Mother-in-law) The reopening of the National
Theatre in the summer of 2012 - the centenary of his
death - will feature major new productions of many of
Caragiales plays.
A prolific writer, Caragiale wrote more than 100
novels and short stories, some of which are studied by
and enjoyed by Romanian schoolchildren today. He even
found time to write two biographies of his contemporary
and friend, the poet Mihai Eminescu.
what to see
67
boasting stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989
revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50,
www.georgeenescu.ro. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescus former home, this
outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still
refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus death, and a year later opened as a
museum dedicated to his life and work. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, students/children 1.50 lei.
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021
314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro.
The countrys largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a
private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. There are three permanent exhibitions, one on each of the three floors of the
main building: Medieval Romanian Art, featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of
frescoes; Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias greatest 20th century artists well represented, including Theodor Aman,
Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu; and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine
collection of Old European Masters. Essential.Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art,
10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries).
Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament Palace; Casa Poporului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, tel. (+4) 021 311 36
11. What is unquestionably Romanias most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) was built
during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host
to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well equipped conference centre, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art. Much
of the building, however, remains unused. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the
building, in fact) though the commentary consists of little more than a bored guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. Youll see
plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to
go on the roof,
which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below,
though again this costs extra. To join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary business
means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring your passport, driving license or other form of
internationally accepted ID. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 25 lei (standard tour), 30 lei (standard and basement), 35 lei (standard
and terrace), 45 lei (standard, terrace and basement). All tours iclude access to the Palaces terrace cafe. An additional fee of 30.00
lei is payable by those with cameras.
Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3, os. Kiseleff 3, tel./fax (+4) 021 317 96 60, www.
muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. In most peoples opinion, the Peasant Museum is the best museum in Bucharest, and one of the best in
the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti, dating from 1912, the museum offers well laid
out and presented exhibits which tell you all you need to know a bout the diverse and fascinating history of life around the country over the
past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from hand painted Easter eggs to terracotta
pottery, from colourful religious icons to traditional clothing. Replicas of much of what is on display can be bought in the excellent
museum shop. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 2 lei,
pensioners 3 lei.
Village Museum (Muzeul Naional al Satului Dimitrie Gust A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10,
www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches
from all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where
in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing, press the
second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such as those from Berbeti,
in the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the
museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also
not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs, or the brightly painted dwellings of the
Danube Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. Children love the
museum, and it makes for a perfect family day out. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Last admission 16:30. Admission 6.00 lei,
students/children 1.50 lei.
68
what to see
Museums
Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de Art)
B-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4)
021 212 96 42. Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. After the communist
takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for
the collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain
their art by the regime. There are some fantastic works on
show, including paintings by all of Romanias greatest artists,
from Nicolae Grigorescu to T heodor Pallady. In terms of artistic
importance the collections here are second only to those at
the National Museum of Art. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
Communist Iconography Museum B-3, Inside the
Peasant Museum. Our favourite part of the Peasant Mu
seum; a small but stunning cellar room featuring a collection
of communist-era busts, paintings and nostalgic memorabilia. A
painting of Stalin hangs on the same wall as one of the only two
public portraits of Ceausescu we have ever found in Bucharest.
Be sure to take a Romanian speaker along to translate the
chilling newspaper articles that are stuck on the walls.
Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, tel. (+4) 021 317
31 07/(+4) 021 317 31 06, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro.
Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first
king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site
of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which
remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace
was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. The design would form something of a blueprint for
Romanian domestic architecture for years to come. It served
as the Bucharest residence of the Romanian royal family until
1939. During the communist period it was used as a guest
house for visiting heads of state.
The part that serves today as the presidents office, and
official home, however, was added after the great Bucharest
earthquake of 1977, and bears the stamp of local architect
Nicolae Vladescu. Part of the palace is open to the public, and
can be visited as part of a tour. You will see a number of function
rooms, many of which were decorated to the whims of Marie, the
English wife of Carols heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand. You
will also be able to view her astonishing art collection. During the
construction of the new wing in the 1980s, ruins of the original
monastery church were discovered, including part of the original
interior frescoes. The church has been partially rebuilt and can
be visited. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00
lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission includes entrance
and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian,
French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, tel. (+4) 021
212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Far more than just a collec
tion of old rocks and fossils, Bucharests Geology Museum
is one of the citys must sees. First off, there is the museum
building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King
Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian
Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of NeoBrancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than
its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. T he museums
permanent collections are impressive in size and - being
logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of English
captions. The museum is also one of the most active in the
city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating
temporary exhibitions. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
6.00 lei, students and children 3.00 lei.
Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum

B-3, os. Kiseleff 1, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, fax
(+4) 021 312 88 63, www.antipa.ro. Long before
the idea of a major refurbishment had been mooted, we
had already become huge fans of the Antipa. From the
building (purpose built in 1908) which occupies one of
the more discrete parts of Piata Victoriei to the amazing
collections of mounted butterflies and pickled snakes,
it was the kind of place that we always brought the In
Your Pocket kids on a wet weekend: two hours of peace
and quiet was always guaranteed as they explored the
delightful old place. Then, in the autumn of 2007, the
Antipa closed, ostensibly for 18 months while a thorough
refurbishment was carried out. In September 2011, the
museum finally reopened, a year or so behind schedule.
All we can say is that it was well worth the wait.
Before the refurbishment the Grigore Antipa was one
of the most popular (and best) museums in Romania,
attracting more than 350,000 visitors per year. It was
dependent, however, on temporary exhibitions to boost
visitor numbers, as it was unable to display all of its
collection in one go. The well thought-out and thorough
refit (the interior is unrecognisable from before) however
makes far better use of the magnificent building which
houses the museum, which is now able to permanently
display far more of its extensive collection.
T he museum is split over three levels. T he basement
is dedicated to Romanian fauna, and while it would be
impossible to present every species found in the country,
the museum has made a very good attempt at doing so.
Carefully presented exhibitions show the various geographical regions of Romania, and the animals particular
to them. There are boars and bears from the mountains,
fish and dolphins from the Black Sea and hundreds of
birds from the Danube Delta. There are artificial caves
to explore, and all of the exhibits are accompanied by
excellent captions - which put everything into perspective - in Romanian and English. The larger displays also
have interactive screens to help you identify the animals
and find out more about them.
T he ground floor is given over to animals from around
the world (both the living and the extinct: its here you will
find the dinosaurs and mammoths) while the upper level is
devoted to man and his impact on the planet. Somewhat
predictably, the museum has taken a slightly politically
correct turn and now feels free to lecture visitors on the
harm man is doing to the environment.
T he entrance fee to the museum is 20 lei for adults,
10 lei for pensioners and 5 lei for children. With the exception of Casa Poporului, the price is more than double that
of any other museum in the city. However, if Bucharest
(and Romania) wants to have world class museums then a
world class entrance fee alas needs to be paid. Besides,
is 20 lei really too much? A family of four can come here
for 50 lei: thats cheaper than a trip to the cinema. (One
gripe would be the fact that all photography is strictly
forbidden).
Still, small grumbles. Bucharests new look Grigore
Antipa is an excellent museum that the city should be
proud of, and it is well worthy of your time and money. It
is unquestionably an Essential Bucharest sight. Open
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 19:00. Admission 20 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children 5 lei.
what to see
69
History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5, Calea Victoriei 12, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www. mnir.ro. The
beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neoclassical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was
constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Pota
Roman, the Romanian postal service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museum s
exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, and include a fine collection of antiquities, including statues brought from a Bronze
Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda. The finest exhibit is the replica of Trajans Column in the central lapi-darium. The
museum is poor on Romanias recent history. Open 09:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2
lei.
Military Museum (Muzeul Militar National) B-4, Str. Mircea Vulc nescu 125-127, tel. (+4) 021 319 59 04 int. 107.
Tucked away on a side street not far from the main railway station, the Military Museum is housed in a former officers college, built in
1885. Popular with older children, the most interesting sections of the museum include a range of military hardware (missiles, helicopters
and tanks) as well as an excellent display that focuses on the armys role during the revolution. Not to be missed is the Soyuz-40 capsule in
which Dumitru Prunariu became the f irst - and so far only - Romanian in space, in May 1981. Sadly, no captions anywhere in the
museum are in English. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.00 lei, children, students 2.50 lei.
Minovici Museum of Ancient Western Art (Muzeul de Arta Veche Minovici) Str. Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) 021 665 73 34,
www.minovici.ro. This amazing red brick, mock Tudor house holds the small and dusty renaissance
Sibiu
European Capital of Culture in 2009, the Transylvanian city of Sibiu has long been considered one of Romanias best destinations to
visit. It is no surprise therefore that some of the biggest names in the hotel business have opened up shop there. A five or six hour
drive from Bucharest, Sibiu is served by trains from Bucharest and by plane: Tarom has two flights a day, with prices starting at 45
single.
Continental Forum P-ta Unirii 10, tel. (+4) 0372 69 26 92, fax (+4) 0372 69 26 93, reservation.forum.
sibiu@continentalhotels.ro, www.continentalhotels. ro. Q 135 rooms (124 singles/doubles 110-125, 11 apartments 200600). Prices include all taxes and
breakfast. PHR6UFLGKDW
Hilton Sibiu Str. Padurea Dumbrava 1, tel. (+4) 0269 50 56 00, fax (+4) 0269 50 56 39, info.sibiu@ hilton.com,
www.sibiu.hilton.com. Q 115 rooms (95 singles/doubles 66 - 169, 20 apartments 131 - 219). Extra bed 20. Prices include
breakfast. VAT and taxes
not included. PTHUFLGKDCW
Ibis Sibiu Calea Dumbravii 2-4, tel. (+4) 0269 21 81 00, fax (+4) 0269 21 51 20, reservations. sibiu@ibishotels.ro,
www.ibishotels.ro. Q 195 rooms (184 singles/doubles 49, 11 apartments 79). Prices include VAT and taxes. Breakfast not
included.
PTHR6ULGKW
70
what to see
For information about Bucharests
most historic churches,
see page 28.
art collection of Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei
in the oil business in the 1930s. Inside are fine collections
of Belgian tapestries, Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass,
a complete library and Italian paintings from the 16th/17th
centuries. To get there, walk north-east from Piaa Presei
Libere or take bus No. 301 to the Mioria Fountain. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission 1.50 lei,
students and children 0.50 lei.
National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC;
Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamen-tului),
tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Making
excellent use of the wide open spaces on the Parliament
Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Romanias finest contemporary artists. There are also works on display
by international artists, and regular topical exhibitions. Its all
mostly installations, clever symbolism and grand gestures as
opposed to real talent, but you may enjoy the humour. The
museum has a great cafe, and if the weather is good enough
its terrace offers fantastic views of the city. Open 10:00
-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei. Free entrance
for children and artists.
Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic) C-7, Str. Gen.
Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 93 90. Often
unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so) museum of
technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant
to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were
all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared, with some
of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of
the 19th century. The museum is housed in something of
a cherished relic itself: the original pavilion built to host the
1906 Romania Fair, a showcase of everything great in and
about Romania at the time. Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 3.00 lei, students, children 1.50 lei.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik, Muzeul
Theodor Pallady) D-5, Str. Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021
211 49 79. T heodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romanias most influential 20th
century painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was
influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs,
sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes.
Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only
six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted
other art. The museums saving grace is the house in which it
is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa
Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi
Kevork Nazaretoglu. Open 10:00- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
Zambaccian Museum (Muzeul Zambaccian) B-3,
Str. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A, tel. (+4) 021 230 19 20.
A chance to see the large collection belonging to the now deceased patron Zambaccian (youll see the requisite portraits)
that includes the only Cezanne in Romania, as well as the best
of Romanian painters Luchian, Tonitza, and Pallady. Open
10:00-18:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7 lei.
Jewish Bucharest
As recently as 1937 there were over 100,000 Jews and
more than 80 synagogues in Bucharest: today there are
around 4,000 Jews and just three working synagogues.
Yet though it may be small, the Jewish community is
incredibly active in the city, and besides the synagogues
has a theatre, a school and a museum. There is also now
a Holocaust Memorial built in 2009 which has gone
a long way towards finally drawing a line under Romanias
involvement in the Holocaust.
For a thorough account of the Holocaust in Romania, we recommend Radu Ioanids book Holocaust in
Romania: The Destruction of Jews & Gypsies by the
Antonescu Regime. For a slightly different look at life as
a Jew in 1930s and 40s Romania, you can do no better
than the brilliant Journal: The Fascist Years, by Mihai
Sebastian.
Choral Temple C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, tel. (+4)
021 312 21 96. Built in 1857, the red brick temple has
a memorial in front of it (visible from the street) that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during
the Holocaust. Usually the busiest Bucharest synagogue,
it is currently closed for extensive renovation.
Holocaust Memorial B-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str.
Ilfov, |M]Eroilor. Unveiled in October 2009, Romanias
Holocaust Memorial finally recognises the countrys role in
the genocide of Europes Jews. The countrys role in the
Holocaust and in the deportation of Jews was ignored by the
Com munists, and it was minimized by subsequent
governments after the collapse of Communism beginning
in 1989.
Jewish Cemetery (Cimitirul Evreiesc de Rit
Sefard) C-7, Calea Serban Vod. Fascinating though
harrowing cemetery, full of monuments to those who died
during Romanias pogroms (of which there were many at
the turn of the 19th century) and the Holocaust. Beware
stray dogs. Open from noon to dusk.
Jewish History Museum (Muzeul de Istorie a
Evreilor din Romania) C-6, Str. Mmulari 3, tel.
(+4) 021 311 08 70. Seperate exhibitions display how
the once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to
live. Housed in an old synagogue built in 1850, the main
display is in fact a sculpture that mourns the 350,000
Romanian Jews sent to their deaths at Auschwitz in 1944
and 1945. Open 09:00 - 14:00, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.
The Great Synagogue C-6, Str. Vasile Adamache
11. Bucharests Great Synagogue was built from 1845
-1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. With an
impressive mixture of baroque and rococo architectural
styles, the Great Synagogue remains the most important
Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an
excellent exhibition dedicated to Romanias Jewish martyrs,
and to Dr. Moses Rosen, who served as Romanias Chief
Rabbi for 30 years until his death in 1994. Open 08:30
-15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer:
Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.
Yeshoah Tova Synagogue (Sinagoga Eua
Tova) C-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9. In a busy side street
off Bulevardul Magheru is Bucharests second temple.
Services take place when Sabbath commences on Friday
evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00.
N HHONORS
-
View Winter Differently

Accommodation in double room for 2 parson, breakfast and Taxes included.
l B'iii discount irr an meals in Versailles restaurant.
10% discount m Englwh Bar.
Ftw access to the spa center swimming pool. jxuxti, Finnish sauna, aroma sauna.
<ntrared sauna. steam batn. Knaipp bath, relaxation and meditation rooms, titness
2S% discount tot tire winter spa literacies
On request, froo transport lo mo medieval center or Faltinis.
2 nights
189
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While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition
over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent
transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which in the past
two years has turned what was very much a no-go area with
almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capitals liveliest
entertainment district. The area is still something of a work in
progress, but its a rewarding place to explore, one of the few
areas of the capital that is. You will certainly not want for things
to do, to see, or for places to eat, drink and dance.
Old Town: A Brief History
The area of Bucharest described by the Dambovita river to

the south, Calea Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brtianu
to the east and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta to the north is
more or less all thats left of preWorld War II Bucharest. What
the war didnt destroy (and it destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing
was fierce during the early part of 1944) communism did, most
notably in the form of the grandiose Civic Centre project
(see box on page 90) that saw almost a fifth of the total area
of the city flattened to make way for Bulevardul Unirii and
Casa Poporului. That anything survives at all is little short of
a miracle. While we at Bucharest In Your Pocket tend to call
the area Old Town, many will know it better as Lipscani, with
most locals calling it the Centru Istoric (Historic Centre).
The area is historic in the main because this is where
Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur
the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built
a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dmbovia
river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if
it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign
of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the
Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town,
and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle
of the 17th century the area was Bucharests merchant district,
which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of
World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses
and businesses which lined the areas streets were arrested by
the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and
left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois
for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with
many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years
(legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies
remain today, and add real character and colour to the area.
Old Towns Sights
The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at

Universitate, at the twin semi circular buildings opposite
the university. The buildings (one is a bank and the other
houses a casino) were originally built (in 1906) to serve as the
headquarters of Romanias largest insurance company. The
oLd town
73
Lively cosmopolitan bar

Private dinners and events
Non-smoking lounge
Breakfast Lunch, Dinner &

Drinks, Saturday & Sunday
brunch
Str. Smardan 9 (pedestrian area, visa-vis BNR)
fenced-off area in front of them will soon be an underground
car park. Archaeological finds however - including the remains
of inns, houses and shops - brought excavation and building
work to a halt for some time. Best then to leave the building
work behind you and head into Old Town proper: the first sight
that will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss
it) is the colourful St. Nicholas (Students) Church.
Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from
Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven
typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox
cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm)
is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in
Moscows Kremlin. On your right as you exit the church - at the
end of the street is the Neo-Gothic uu Palace, home of
the Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie
al Municipiului Bucureti; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50
lei), a rather bland exhibition of neolithic artifacts uncovered
from around the city and the region. The palace was built
from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu. Old
postcards and costumes depict life in the Romanian capital
in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will
come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a lively
hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings and
exhibitions and (for the brave) Czech language courses. Carry
on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you will see in front of you
the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior of the National Bank
of Romania (BNR). It stands on the site of one of the most
famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which
from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a
pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girls school. After
two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and
in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of
French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885.
T: 0311 076 371
The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an

enormous central banking hall. The passing of time has seen
the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic
worthy of admiration. On the banks far side (on Str. Lipscani)
look out for the remains of another 17th century inn: visible
below street level through hardened glass.
Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading
posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial
street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole
area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str.
Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have
some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It
also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little
alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes
and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St.
Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a
private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that the
king and queen still have special seats on the left and right
of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should they
ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have
magical healing powers.
Back on Str. Lipscani, the Hanul cu Tei is a wonderful
courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art
galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift and
souvenir shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a
lively and bar/restaurant.
Retrace your steps to the National Bank, and head
for Str. Stavropoleos, named for the eponymous church
found along its length (Biserica Stavropoleos; Open
08:30 - 18:00. Services (in Romanian) on Sunday at 09:30,
10:30).
The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a
Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by
74
oLd town
its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a sunny
afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones dating f rom the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working
on restoring them.
For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere, a beer
hall and restaurant dating from 1875. It is on the other side of the road to the church a little further up. Church fans might also
want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few steps to the right is the Mother of God Church (Biserica Doamnei) built in the
late 17th century on the orders of Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was the first in the city to
boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column. They also
decorate the door. The ornate building on the other side of the road is the headquarters of CEC, the national savings bank, while the
Neo-Classical giant facing it is the National History Museum.
On the far side of the museum is Str. Franceza, another Old Town street now blessed with more restaurants, cafes, bars and
such like than you could wish for. About half way along look out for the Sf. Dumitru Church: Sf. Dumitru is the patron saint of
Bucharest. On the other side of the church is Bucharests comedy theatre.
The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan, home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants.
History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected
Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place
here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravus short-lived reign of 1600. There was a plaque marking the spot until
recently, yet building work has (we hope temporarily) covered it up.
At the bottom of Str. Smardan a narrow walkway allows you to reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court Palace and Church
(Palatul i Biserica Curtea Veche; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon).
T he Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the
Hertz
02133.575.33
Your journey starts here!
15th-century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at
the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons. The palace was by and
large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered
during archaeological digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the
original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are
exhibited.
Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715,
during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Miu Papa, were
added in 1847. The churchs exterior was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever.
Opposite is the Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808 by an Armenian merchant, it was bought and sold many times throughout the
19th and early 20th centuries before being nationalised in 1949. It remained state property until 2006, when Constantin erban
Cantacuzino - the heir of its last private owner - won an epic legal battle (which had lasted the best part of ten years) to recover
ownership. Closed a year
Old Town Shops

Souvenir Shop C-6, Str. Blnari 5, tel. (+4) 021 310 32 25, shop@souvenir-shop.com.ro, www. souvenirshop.com.ro. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts
available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here, complete with the slogan
Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two. Open 10:00 20:00.
Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19 (Lipscani area), tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021 310 43 89,
contact@thomas-antiques.ro, www.thomas-antiques.ro. By common consent the best antique shop in the city. Stocks
everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can even
drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at
home. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:45. [a)leel
oLd town
(m BOURGEOIS
(Bistro <& Caffe 'Sat
Open daily: 10.00- 03.00
Ph: +4021 510 605? I +40 720132 W4
Sir. Smardan nr. 20 | www.mbaur9e0ij.ra
later ahead of renovation, part of the inn (the restaurant/bar,
courtyard and some function rooms) was finally reopened
earlier this year. The inns hotel (the Dacia) remains closed
but is poised to reopen soon.
Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah pipes

and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse was built in
1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei then the busiest
street in the city and the National Bank. It is named for a
Catalan architect, Xavier Vilacrosse, who from 1840-50 was the
chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law
of the buildings architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an
arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended to
encourage commerce at street level; In other words, this was
Bucharests first shopping mall. During the communist period the
passage was known by the name Pasajul Bijuteriei (Jewellery
Passage) and hosted the citys largest jewellers.
Old Town Cafes
Atelier Cafe C-6, Str. Selari 7, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 54,
www.ateliercafe.ro. Cafe and gallery, where you can enjoy
an artistic coffee while browsing some fine contemporary
Romanian art from the likes of Ion Silisteanu, Sorin Ilfoveanu
and Mihai Cismaru. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. PJGW
Cafeneaua Carada C-6, Str. Eugeniu Carada 5-7,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0766 35 86 54/(+4) 021 310
48 20, cafeneaua.carada@ymail.com. Large, impressive
new cafe next to Romanias national bank, where the big windows looking out onto one of the citys few busy pedestrian
streets are what will have you heading inside. Great coffee
and cocktails, it is the perfect meeting place and works
well as either coffee house or bar. Add in a gallery (what you
see is on sale) and you have the kind of place Bucharest really needs. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
PJESW
French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, tel. (+4) 021

316 10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to happen.
Bucharests smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town,
complete with its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious
tarts and cakes, great coffee and a super, covered (at this
time of year) terrace outside on the sexiest part of Old Town.
Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee,
regardless of the time of day. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
09:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. PJVSW
Gio Cafe C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, tel. (+4) 021 313
97 40/(+4) 0730 03 07 64, www.giocafe.ro. Popular
with business types in the mornings, who come here to talk
big numbers over coffee and pastries, as the day moves on
the clientele gets just a little younger and just a little hipper.
Not merely a very nice cafe in which to spend time, Gio offers
far more, including what we think is Bucharests only fondue:
Ph: *A 0753 070 6B4 Mon-Fri-923 4 SaL Sun111-24 B-dul Hrsta Bolev
nr. 3 (Piata Rosetlil
Cla^
The
Living
Room
aepe c gglalo artigianale
Chocolat C-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, tel. (+4) 021 314 92

45, www.chocolat.com.ro. Hard to pin this place down. Is
it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a
little coffee? In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant
serving delicious, well priced light meals (soups, pasta,
salad) of a French and Italian bent. There is chocolate of
course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of gourmet bread
than we could possible list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere.
QOpen 09:00 -23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:30. Also at (B-3)
Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83 and (D-4) Calea
Mosilor 217, tel. (+4) 021 211 44 64. PJSW
75
76
oLd town
and restaurant. Two dishes we particularly enjoyed were the
risottos: one with chicken and vegetables and the other one
with mushrooms. For dessert, the pears in white wine are a
real autumn treat. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
PJSW
Valea Regilor B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Villacrosse), tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69, www.valearegilor.ro.
Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victorieis grand old
passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet and sickly
but irresistible - you can also get you hands on a Nargile, those
Turkish water pipes that offer an allegedly much healthier way
to smoke tobacco. QOpen 08:30 - 02:30. JBW
Men - Thu 12:00 - 24r00 | Fri. Sal 5ur> 12:00 - 03:00
Sir Blansn nr. 9 | www.rs5lBu9rlEiiBalibur.rD
you can indulge cheese or chocolate dipping delights here.
There is another big, colorful and vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba
Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at
(E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel. (+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PJBSW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4)
031 107 63 71, info@vangogh.ro, www.vangogh.ro.
Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at
every time of day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of
one of the long windows or a business lunch at one of the
wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food
is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch
owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than
once. There is also a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function rooms upstairs, and they now do a great
brunch, on Saturday and Sunday. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00,
Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
-24:00. PJSW
Klein Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 313 93 15/(+4) 021 313 93 16, www.rembrandt.ro. Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor of the
Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in the Old
Town we believe. They serve a great continental breakfast
until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants, muffins, Dutch
cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed
orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day fresh,
warm waffles are served with a choice of toppings. Good hot
chocolate, and a wide range of exotic teas. Nice. Q
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PJGSW
Leonidas C-6, Str. Doamnei 27, tel. (+4) 021 314 13
77/(+4) 0723 18 02 68, www.ciocolata-inghetata.ro.
What started as (the citys best) choclaterie selling fine
Belgian chocolates, pralines and marzipans in a variety of
wonderful guises has over the years become far more: it is
now a wonderful cafe too, where you can enjoy the caramels
and liqueurs and such like in peace and quiet and in the
company of fine coffee. Yo u would expect them to serve an
exemplary hot chocolate, and they of course do not disappoint. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun. PJVSW
Les Bourgeois C-6, Str. Smardan 20, tel. (+4) 021
310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois.
ro. Les Bourgeois was one of the first places to open on
Strada Smardan, long before the street became fashionable.
It remains popular because of its ability to keep coming up
with great food, and because it works both as a caf, bar
Old Town Restaurants
Alioli Tapas C-6, Str. Bacani 1, tel. (+4) 021 311 22

65, www.alioli.ro. Order yourself a San Miguel or a pitcher
of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail
bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to chat. Its
a mini-version of the larger restaurant on Strada Popa Tatu,
which is also well worth a look. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri
16:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. Closed
Mon. Also at (B-5) Str. Popa Tatu 4, Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00 . PJLESW
The Barrel British Restaurant C-6, Str. Smardan 27,
MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 41 26 46, www.thebarrel.
ro. Pub serving food, or restaurant serving drinks? We will
go for the former. This good Smardan venue has far more the
feel of a pub than anything else, but there is plenty of food on
offer. The menu is certainly British inspired, offering fair Fish &
Chips, Shepherds Pie and jacket spuds amongst much else.
They also have Newcastle Brown and Strongbow on offer,
but neither on tap. A Union Jack above the bar reminds you
of the British connection. . QOpen 10:00 Bellini C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 310 29 78, www.bellini.ro. Packed out with the
pre-cinema crowd heading over to Cinema Pro for the latest
premiere, Bellini has a great location and - according to just
about anybody you ask - makes the best pizza in Bucharest.
The non-pizza menu is merely good. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. Also at Str. Lanariei 5, tel. (+4) 0723 10
01 01. . PJBSW
Caru cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, tel. (+4) 021
313 75 60, (+4) 0726 28 23 73, www.carucubere.ro.
Should be the first stop on the list of any visitor to Bucharest.
Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make
the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying
some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the
sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple,
tasty treat. Good beer, good service (now: it never used to
be) and a good time guaranteed. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . JEBSW
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, tel. (+4) 021 311 19 22,
www.charme.ro. Some of the finest food in Old Town, served
in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around.
Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread
and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order
some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine. Its a winner from
start to finish. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
. PJBSW
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62
62/(+4) 021 314 24 89, www.citygrill.ro. They call these
places your dining room in the city, and given the homely food
and cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeat-
>
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and Nights in Bucharest
^^
Open daily: 10:00 - 05:00

Reservation: (+b) 0722 37 33 36
Str Smardan 2h, www.freddo.ro
oLd town
78
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able) they might just be right. Dont expect haute cuisine,

but do expect big portions of simple Romanian food. We like
the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with
mutton and pork. Theres a good selection of local beers to
choose from too. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 -02:00. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021
233 98 18 and many other locations. . PJBSW
NEW
Coco Bongo C-6, Str. Covaci 1, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04

34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Love the name, love the attitude.
Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is both pub
and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The food
is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway).
The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service good,
quick and friendly. Worth a look. QOpen 10:30 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 10:30 - 04:00. . PJVESW
Il Peccato C-6, Str. Franceza 30, tel. (+4) 021 310 90

13/(+4) 0758 10 50 27, www.ilpeccato.ro. It shouldnt
take too long to find this place: it is the restaurant with a
motorbike in a glass display box parked outside. Really. Inside
it is a well-decorated and comfortable venue, worthy of your
time, serving standard Italian food of the pizza, pasta variety,
Has an excellent selection of Italian wines and is a great place
to sit and enjoy a decent bottle or two. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Mon 16:00 - 01:00. . PJBSW
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, tel. (+4)
0731 24 78 76, www.bistrovin.ro. The best little bistro
to open in these parts for many a year. Does what it does
-simple French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the
city. Tr y the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and
garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chefs
specials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and
we love the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a
brilliantly simple place. QOpen 12:30 - 23:30, Mon 18:30
-23:30, Fri, Sat 12:30 - 24:00. Wine Bar open 12:00 02:30.
. PJLBSW
NEW
La Fondue Restaurant C-6, Str. Franceza 56, tel. (+4)

0722 51 12 99, www.lafondue.ro. Oh la la. Real French
fondue, both cheese and meat, on - what else - Strada
Franceza. The first fondue restaurant to open in Bucharest
we think, and from what we cold tell it is already popular with
groups of friends looking for something just a bit different to
the Old Town norm. You would do well to make a reservation.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PJSW
Malagamba C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 2, tel. (+4) 021 313
33 89/(+4) 0748 50 25 43, www.malagamba.ro. What a
name, what a place. An Italian (with a twist) restaurant of the
Divan C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, tel. (+4) 021 312 30 34,
www.thedivan.ro. From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and
superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The food is good value Turkish/Middle
Eastern, with a couple of Romanian dishes thrown on the menu
for the less adventurous. They will even cook you a whole lamb if
you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like
beef and lamb kebabs. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke
on a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours to choose
from. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. . PJSW
Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel.
(+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Te i, always
one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in
summer) and indoor lounge (at this time of year) which serves
food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than
many other places we could mention in Old Town. Good bistro
food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the
know, this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy
on Piata Lahovari. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Also at (C-4) P-ta
Lahovari 8, Open 10:00-03:00. . PJSW
NEW
Himera Cafe Lounge & More C-6, Str. Selari 26, tel. (+4)
0727 78 18 55, contact@himera-cafe.ro. Stay early, leave

late. Very late, as in the next morning. Thats the kind of place
this Old Town locale is: all things to all people. You can eat very
good food here: there is a wide range of terrifically well presented
food, from simple steaks to fancier creations, as well as great
coffee, cocktails and as the night wears on, music. To be honest,
you could very easily live here. Well worth a look. QOpen 12:00
-02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. . PJSW
oLd town
79
old school (in that the food is what counts first and foremost), this Irish-owned eatery next to the Comedy Theatre is terrific. Wanting to
stand out from the crowd the team behind it have gone to great lengths to do so, coming up with all sorts of treats, such the as lime
and basil sorbet: already a legend amongst Bucharest foodies. Malagamba by the way was a Romanian musician, composer and
director who frequented these parts in the 1930s and 40s. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
. PJVSW
Manuc Bistro / Levantin C-6, Str. Franceza 62-64, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11/(+4) 0769 07 58 44, www. hanulluimanuc.ro.
Bucharests oldest inn (and one of only two surviving caravanserai in Europe - the other is in Albania) reopens its doors. A new bar has
been put in on the ground floor, and the place had been spruced up rather nicely. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when the weather
allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or simple Romanian food, or head up to the first floor for good (and really well priced) Lebanese
cuisine at Levantin. There is an entrance to Levantin direct from Piatu Unirii now too. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. .
PJEBSW
NEW
Negresco
C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 3, tel. (+4) 0720 66 77 66, www. negresco.ro. Probably the best new restaurant to open in Bucharest
this year. This place is classically French, serving a terrific onion soup, two fabulous duck dishes (the duck breast with fennel and
coriander is amazing), fresh pate, snails and a super apple tart with vanilla sauce to finish. There is a wide range of wines (many
available by the glass) and it is all served in a well-restored, classy Bucharest house dating from the 1890s. Downstairs is a bar perfect
for private parties or retiring to after eating. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
PJSW
Red Angus Steakhouse C-6, Str. Franceza 56, |M)P-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 03 83, www.redangus.ro. Does exactly what
the name suggests: serves great steaks to customers who like their meat cooked to order. The steaks come from all over the world,
from the US to New Zealand, and there is more than just classic steaks (like the Rib-Eye): there are great baby back ribs too, a
magnificent burger, and the desserts - if you still have room after a big meaty feast - are well worth trying, not least the lemon
merengue pie. And they have a childrens menu. Admirable. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . UdEKBo
Restaurant Excalibur C-6, Str. Blanari 9, tel. (+4) 0722 34 31 18, www.restaurantexcalibur.ro. Brilliant, just brilliant.
Plates, knifes and forks are dispensed with at this enjoyable Medieval-themed restaurant, where you can sit down at huge round
tables and enjoy King Arthurs Dinner or Sir Lancelots Lunch direct from a wooden platter. Its very good Romanian grill and
barbeque fare presented as Medieval cuisine, and the prices are more than decent and both the atmosphere and service are
fantastic. Kids love it. Finger licking good. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. . g d ffl \J\ ffl OB
St. George
C-6, Str. Francez 44, tel. (+4) 021 317 10 87/(+4) 0747 11 10 00, www.stgeorge.ro. This has long been one of our
favourite restaurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The food is
excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and a wine list that
offers the very best Hungarys vineyards have to offer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu is the perfect way to end an evening
here. Live music is provided by a happy, table wandering troupe every night. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . g (o) {J\ [J] OB
80
oLd town
Boma Pub C-6, Str. Covaci 3, tel. (+4) 021 312 05 52/
(+4) 0722 80 01 86, www.bomapub.ro. Beer and very good
pizza (and fair bit else besides) in a rather nice setting on Strada
Covaci, which, with the recent opening of a few other decent
places is quickly becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. Boma is
a sweet little place, decked out with wood and boasting perhaps
the comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced
and service comes with a smile. An excellent place for a livener
or two. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JVBSW
Old Town Bars & Pubs
Arcade Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 30, tel. (+4) 0727 25

70 22, (+4) 0722 77 76 74, www.arcadecafe.ro. One
more reason to hail Strada Smardan as the new Messiah of
nightlife destinations. This little place is a cool mix of cafe,
DJ bar and deadly serious club, though the music is always
at the right volume and never stifles conversation. Basically
there are two parts to this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving
hot milk: our kids liked it!) and downstairs is the club. The cafe
is open from (around) 10am. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 05:00. PJEW
Atelier Mecanic C-6, Str. Covaci 12, tel. (+4) 0726 76
76 11. Yo u will like it the minute you walk in the door. Perhaps
even before that. Old Town has needed something a bit different for a while, and this place is it. A modernist, minimalist bar/
cafe where every chair and table is different, and which has
something of a What communist Britain might have looked
like-chic about it. The price of beer is good, and they serve
a variety of wines by the glass. Brilliantly simple it is anti-fitze
Bucharest at its best and as a result you can expect to see us
here often. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PJBSW
Bordellos C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10

85, www.bordellos.ro. From quiz nights to live music, this
is a great pub, complete with excellent bar food, Heineken,
Murphys and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four
screens. Great food: tapas in the pub (the ribs are just about
the best weve ever had in Bucharest) and more sophisticated
fare in the restaurant bit. Why Bordellos? Read the drinks
menu and you will find out why. Yo u cant miss this place by
the way: just look for the tarts in their underwear beckoning
you in. No wonder it is always full. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu,
Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00.
PJESW
Cantina Sport Bar C-6, Str. Franceza 52, tel. (+4) 0733
11 04 64, www.cantinasportbar.ro. On the southern tip of
Old Town, where Strada Selari meets the river embankment,
this enormous sports bar is a bright and breezy place to watch
the match and get your hands on some decent grub. Decent
pizza costs very little, but most popular of all appears to be the
pui la rotisor, served up with copious amounts of beer. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PJLBSW
Colorteca C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, tel. (+4) 0751 26 82
45. Super little bar in a narrow Lipscani passage that it is
home to a surprisingly large number of speakeasies. This one
could well be our favourite, not least because of the colourful
Beer OClock C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, tel. (+4) 0767

23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. This little pub in Pasajul
Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers
in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the
world you could drink a different beer every night for a month
and not try the same one twice. Whats more, besides the
beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve
it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to
sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note:
there is now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni
further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original. QOpen
16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00
-02:00. PJBW
Ice Cream
Caffe Gelato C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, tel. (+4)
0732 00 88 88, www.caffegelatobucuresti.ro. Find it
at the bottom of Strada Smardan. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJB
Clate C-6, Str. Smardan 30, tel. (+4) 0756 09 71
98, clatecontact@gmail.com, www.clate.net. Best
ice cream in town, and more besides: pancakes, juice and
the like. QOpen 12:30 - 01:00. PJNSW
oLd town
81
decor, very late opening hours and cheerful bar staff. Usually a good crowd in sipping pre-club drinks, although - like us - many tend to stay
here the whole evening. Its that kind of place. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00. PJNW
Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32/(+4) 0723 27 96 20, www.curteaberarilor.com.
Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers, from whence the name. Now only a few
survive and no less than four bars have opened here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard),
though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana. QOpen
13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJSW
Elephant Pub & Live Music C-6, Str. Gabroveni 16, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 67, www.elephantpub.ro. Live music pub and club
that launches itself into direct competition with the more established Mojo next door. Besides the music there are plenty of screens for
watching sports and the like, the beer is well priced and the crowd a very casually dressed mix of rockers in leather and rollers in
jeans. Make of it what you will. Q Open 15:00 - 02:00. PJENBW
Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden location (find it
in the alleyway which links Str. Blanari to Str. Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret business, affairs and
anything else that springs to mind. Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced, the staff are friendly and its worth checking out: if only to
show off to someone just how well you know Bucharest and its backstreets. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. PJNBW
Klein Bar & Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt
hotel. Its a great place to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone
makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything
comes at very reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PJLG
Oktoberfest C-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. What makes this place so special is how very
ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary, out for a drink and a good time locals at that,
not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether its football on the television or impromptu drinking
competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Okto-berfest 2, which has a small terrace complete with
heaters for the winter. The club Octopus is also inside (on the ground floor). Q Open 24hrs. PJNB
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Good pub on Lipscani with a huge beer
garden out the back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some
pub grub that is far better than you would assume. The burger was great: try it with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for
something a bit different. A big screen shows football and the like. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00.
PJLEBW
Open Door C-6, Covaci 8, tel. (+4) 021 310 78 11, www.cafebaropendoor.ro. Boasting one of the best selections of exotic
coffees in the city (try the After Dinner Mint),
82
oLd town
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Open Door is something a bit different for the Old Town area.
Best place to sit is upstairs, and though it can get awfully
smoky when it is busy, what venue in Bucharest doesnt?
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PW
NEW
Papiota C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, tel. (+4) 021 315 40 43.
Well, we guess it had to happen. The madcap bar Atelier
Mecanic has proven to be so popular that quasi-clones are
starting to appear. Papiota is therefore much like Atelier,
packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and bobs,
but (whisper it) might actually be preferable given that it is
a bit bigger and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of
getting in the door. It also has lots of big windows, the drinks
are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music
is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it. QOpen 12:00
-01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PEW
Pub 41
C-6, Str. Smardan 41, 1st floor, tel. (+4) 0725 52 30
82, www.pub41.com. The do a very good mojito here,
and its well worth sinking a few before you try the helium
karaoke (which they have most Tuesday and Thursday nights,
a phenomenon now approaching quasi-legendary status
amongst the Old Town cognoscenti). There is plenty of other
live music at other times, from jazz to rock to experimental
bands youve never heard of. Well worth a look. QOpen
18:00 - 05:00. PJEW
Revenge
C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0722 33 12 26, www.
revenge.ro. It is the music that we like best about this pub
and club in the heart of the Lipscani area. A mix of everything
from the sublime to the ridiculous, it hardly matters that you
might not like whats playing: you will not have to wait long
to hear an old favourite. Add in a casually-dressed, non-fitze
crowd and you have a winner. QOpen 17:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 08:30. PJNB
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Shakespeare C-6, Str. Blanari 21, tel. (+4) 021 311

19 92/(+4) 0723 88 63 71, www.shakespearebar. ro.
A cracking pub on Strada Blanari, right opposite the big
church, where from day one they appear to have got it right.
A bit spacier and a bit more comfortable than your average
Lipscani venue, expect to find comfy sofas in the windows,
strange but rather fetching art on the walls and decent
staff who know how to pull a decent beer. The crowd tends
to be studenty during the day, getting a bit smarter and
sophisticated as the evening wears on. We like it. QOpen
11:00 - 04:00. PJBW
Sports Bar C-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 11, tel. (+4)
021 312 24 92, www.stadio.ro. Bright new sports bar
(what else?), although note that the sports in question are
more than likely to be Romanian: if a Premier League match
clashes with a Romanian game you will be watching the local excuse for football. The food here is far better than you
might expect for a sports bar: the salads especially are big
and packed with fresh, tasty ingredients. QOpen 10:00
-24:00. PESW
Team Pub C-6, Str. Lipscani 36, tel. (+4) 0760 32 34
17/(+4) 0723 72 94 29, teampub@yahoo.com, www.
teampub.ro. Decent enough pub on the corner of Lipscani
and Selari, with good proper bar stools and a decent range
of beers. Efficient waitresses in red tops serve the customers well. Its popular too: first time we came here (just after
they had opened) it was empty: now (especially on a Friday
or Saturday night) you can barely get through the door for
revelers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PJW
oLd town
Late Night Food
Bun de tot Str. Franceza 52, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04
64, www.citygrill.ro. The name means good for
everything and everything is what they have here, from
kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs, burgers and the like.
Find it on the corner of Selari and the river at the bottom of Old Town: its open 24 hours. Q Open 24
hrs. .
PVSW
Caruta Self C-6, Corner of Smardan/Lipscani. Why
didnt we think of this first? A stall selling top snack food
at cracking prices on the corner of the most popular
nightlife streets in town. Sausages, soups, steaks, fries
and the like get served up in quick time by the top staff for
a never-ending gaggle of clubbers. Q . J
Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31. KFC on the
ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get
yourself here for your late night/early morning fried
chicken fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00. JNGS
Divan Express C-6, Str. Selari 19, tel. (+4) 021 310
15 62, info@divanexpress.ro, www.divanexpress.ro.
Probably the best of the kebab joints that have sprung up
to serve the Old Town clubbing crowd. Serving much the
same delicious food as other at the main Divan restaurant
only at cheaper prices, this take-away is very much the
one to beat. The queues speak for themselves. Q
Open 24 hrs. . JVSW
Dristor Kebap C-6, Str. Franceza 17, tel. (+4) 021
315 55 40, lipscani@dristorkebap.com, www.
dristorkebap.ro. Legendary chain of kebab shops, which
began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, even in
to Old Town. Q Open 24 hrs. Also at B-dul Camil
Ressu 1, Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Marasesti 42
and B-dul Timisoara 26.
McDonalds C-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), www.mcdonalds.ro. The good news is McDonalds has finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that
much sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now
be yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets.
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve
them all day. Q Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:0001:00. McDrive at (A-4) Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai
Bravu 307, Sos. Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str.
Barbu Vacarescu 146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open
24hrs.
. PTJG
Thema Food Boutique C-6, Calea Victoriei 21-23,
tel. (+4) 0762 21 16 62, tfbvenus@thema.com.ro,
www.thema.ro. While - in closing at 19:00 - it doesnt
really count as late-night food, you should make an effort
to get here as they are serving the best, home-made
burgers in the land. They are well priced, cooked to order
and taste sensational. We just wish they would stay open
longer! QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. . PS
The Little Bar C-6, Str. Smardan 14, tel. (+4) 0726 69
44 20. Little by name, little by nature. But we like little, and
this coquette bar on - where else - Str. Smardan is the kind
of place you cant pass by without thinking lets pop in here
for a quick one Its that kind of place: a quick primer before
heading off somewhere bigger. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PJNBW
Trinity College C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0747 50
75 07, www.trinitycollegepub.ro. Upmarket burgers,
tapas and the like served in an all-American atmosphere
to an (almost) all-Romanian crowd. Good ribs, good pizza,
good cocktails and Leffe on draught. Stays open late, and
at weekends often has DJs on duty to make sure the music
is good. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PJSW
Vintage Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 43, tel. (+4) 0755 07
72 40/(+4) 0755 07 72 44, www.thevintagepub.ro.
Another Smardan drinking den. And its not bad. Staff are
incredibly hospitable, and the interior dcor is pub-ish without
overdoing it. The Vintage aspect is provided by the hanging
of various antiques on the walls. Cheapish drinks, salads
and sandwiches attract a young, studenty crowd. Q
Open 10:30 - 06:00. PJEBW
Old Town Irish Pubs

Arthur Irish Pub
C-6, Str. Gabroveni 20, tel. (+4) 0736 85 84 30. Another

Irish pub in Old Town. Looks like a huge advert for Guinness, with black-stuff branding all over the place, complete
with portraits of old Arthur Guinness himself. Needless to
say they serve a faultless pint, the bar (and sufficient bar
stools) are the business and in winter we think it will be a
real winner. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
PJBSW
83
84
oLd town
So where am I exactly?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of
the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest
is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one
of the three historic principalities which make up the
modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while
Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single
country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form
only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of
Transylvania voted to join in the fun.
The official population of Bucharest is just over two
million people, but as many migrants from the rest of
the country do not bother to register as citizens of the
capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three
million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (just 69 kilometres to
the south), which serves as the border between Romania
and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu,
linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the
other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well
worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will
need a car, as train services between Bucharest and
Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta
and the Black Sea coast, but as the A2 motorway only
goes as far as Cernavoda, even the maddest of drivers
fail to do the trip in much under three hours. Like most
trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is
slow and it takes four and a half hours.
To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of
Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian
Mountains, a two hour drive away.
OHaras C-6, Str. Franceza 13, tel. (+4) 0724 23 95 77.

Amazingly, this place has already been around for two years.
(Feels like only yesterday that it opened). Expect a decent pint
of Guinness, live Irish music and a grand welcome from some fine
staff make this very much the thinking mans Irish pub in Bucharest. The Lipscani venue (on one of the areas pedestrian streets
that has actually been finished) is a bonus. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PJENBW
Oscars C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 021 310 32 61. Wow,
its like a new place. Forget what you read or thought of this place
before and get there immediately. Its a big Irish pub showing all
the right sports on television and serving an exemplary pint of
Guinness and a top chicken pie. There is also karaoke, live music
and hands-on management. There is a great courtyard and sublime raised seating area, and now that theyve finished repaving
Strada Covaci you can get here without getting your shoes dirty.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJBSW
Scarlet Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 41, tel. (+4) 0722 37 51
08, www.scarletpub.ro. Big pub on Strada Smardan
serving a decent Guinness and attracting a good crowd of
ordinary locals out for a decent night. Drinks are well priced
compared to a few other places in the area and it doesnt
take all night to get a drink here either: always a bonus.
Often has events, including live music and DJs at the
weekends. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
PJEBSW
St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 313
03 36/(+4) 0749 99 63 77, www.bucharest-irishpub.ro.
Big, well located and quite frankly cracking pub in Lipscani.
Looking every inch just like a proper Irish boozer, its a real pub
all right with decent grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and
more than efficient staff. Shiny and new its a brilliant addition
to the area and is already as popular as any of the citys other
pubs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJSW
The Gin Factory C-6, Str. Lipscani 37, tel. (+4) 021 311
38 36, www.theginfactory.ro. Enormous and gorgeous,
this is an Irish pub well worth taking a drink in, not least for
its very nice booths and break-out areas perfect for private
chats and the like. The big bar is well-manned and it never
takes long to get a drink regardless of how busy it is. Theres
a DJ on-site spinning tunes of all sorts after about 8pm, and
though the Guinness is only by the bottle, they do have Ursus
Black, so we can live with that. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 05:00. PJESW
Old Town Clubs & Live Music Venues
Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, tel. (+4) 0745 76 48

42/(+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a
Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red
brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different
every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could
be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes.
Regardless of what is going on you probably enjoy it. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJEN
Chat Noir C-6, Str. Blanari 5, tel. (+4) 0740 10 07 97/
(+4) 0752 79 99 27, www.clubchatnoir.ro. Club where a
young crowd of locals dresses well (especially the ladies) and
dances to a very good if sometimes strange mix of sounds
until the very early morning. There are various other events
too, such as Romanian stand-up comedy and the like. Yo u
might want to check out the excellent if eclectic artwork on
the walls before you start dancing. We have yet to find out
if any of it is for sale! QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00
-02:00. JEBW
*\*f.
"
*S.
factory
irish pub, restaurant &. more

KtxomniwdiitLon:
best cheesebu rgjer in the old IOV>TI
OpendEiilv: MDri-Fri: 16.00 - 05,00
Sa(-Stm: 1100-05,00
Facilities wi-fi, wi-fi comer, ctujit
cards
* Wednesdays -ladies
night party, latino
musk;
cocktails 1+1 free
thursdays - famous
covers nighl powered
by the Funky Cane
fridays & Saturdays Dj

set starling from 11pm
T: (+4)021 311 3S 36
El
Str. Lipscani nr. 37
irn
reservaricns&tginfactorY.ro
www.thegiri facttiry.ro
86
oLd town
Club A C-6, Str. Blnari 14, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, office@cluba.ro, www.cluba.ro. This place is a legend. If you
want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you wont have heard for ages,
this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it,
every night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as
well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights
to theatre. Open 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 10:30 - 06:00, Sat
21:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. (H [e] \J\ H] OB
El Comandante C-6, Str. Stavropol eos 8, tel. (+4) 0728
55 50 43, www.elcomandante.ro. El Comandante moves
its mix of live music, a young, raucous but happy and welcoming crowd and general mayhem to the site of former concept
store Market 8. Drinks are well priced for the area and there is
always something going on. A decent bet for a good night out
any night of the week. Open 21:00 - 05:00. (5) B LB
El Dictador C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 3, tel. (+4) 0729 04 10
43, www.eldictador.ro. The la test venue in the growing col
lection of the El Comandante crowd. You know what to expect:
a young crowd dancing to good, upcoming local DJs playing a
mix of music. Expect a bit of New Wave (Thursdays) alongside
more traditional dancehall sounds (Friday and Saturday).
Open 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. (H(e]OB
Fire Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, tel. (+4) 021 312 70 19/
(+4) 0723 16 91 05, www.fire.ro. Smoky, mainly rock playing
venue for disaffected youth types. Well, kind of. A makeover last
year has certainly made the place a bit brighter, though it remains
popular most of all among those who like loud rock music, and
who think that Club A around the corner just isnt sweaty and
crowded enough. Cheap drinks help keep the crowd young and
fitze free, and to be honest there are worst places to go
local. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 0500. [e] \J\ H]
(T) OB
Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, tel. (+4) 0722 37 33

36, www.freddo.ro. The biggest, boldest place on Strada
Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we were about
to run for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us
all dry. Impressive. During the winter it is fully enclosed. Now
get there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads:
and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables. Yo u
might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn
popular. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. JENW
La Muse C-6, Str Lipscani 53, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02
36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17, www.lamuse.ro. Last time we
popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in
Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it
looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the
entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on
it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue
playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd
a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the
drinks. We love it. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 06:00. PJEBW
Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0767 34 34 10, www.mojomusic.
ro. Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor
is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in
the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is
live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the
standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent
price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the
manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to
his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the
resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular
quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. To p notch.
QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. PJEW
oLd town
87
Octopus Lounge & Club C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0722 33 12 26/(+4) 0768 98 88 88, www.octopusclub. ro. New-ish
party venue in Curtea Sticlarilor (the entrance is actually inside Oktoberfest) with DJs every night of the week, and sexy young
dancers shaking their backsides at weekends. Cocktails and beer a decent price. Music is a mix of things, depending on whos
DJing, but expect fairly new sounds and the occasional club classic. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 08:30. JEW
Pure Club C-6, Str. Soarelui 9, tel. (+4) 0737 31 35 85.
Nice. A warren of a venue tucked away in a quiet little part of Old Town. Loads of different little rooms all with a slightly different vibe, though all it
appears with comfy white sofas to crash on when you are done dancing to the top DJs who spin the happening sounds here. Drinks are a
decent price and bar staff super efficient. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJW
Rococo Club & Lounge C-6, Str. Blanari 1, tel. (+4) 0754 01 88 88, www.clubrococo.ro. By day a lounge, by evening a trendy club.
And a good one at that, although it might be a bit fitze for some. Certainly attracts a wealthy crowd and the decor is what could be termed
luxurious, but the fact that it is packed out almost every night speaks volumes. A more than decent cocktail list but no draught beer. Music
is a mixed bag of fairly mainstream club sounds with some local tunes also making an appearance, but it depends on who is DJ-ing. Now
also has a restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PJENBW
The Vault C-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, tel. (+4) 0723 19 99 77, www.clubvault.ro. Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes and
smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least because you never know what to expect on the music
front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-
to-the-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself. Q Open 22:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJEW
True Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str. Se-lari), tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87/(+4) 0721 95 97 25, www. trueclub.ro. In
that wonderful location once known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music venue
well worthy of your time (its owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track record of delivering the goods). When
the resident covers band or top local act isnt performing you will find karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually
means that there is always something here for everyone. Drinks are a decen t price and there are plenty of th em to choose from. QOpen 19:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PJEW
88
shoPPing
Shopping in Bucharest
Bucharests main shopping areas are the malls and
commercial centres listed below, as well as historical
Calea Victoriei, home to the most luxurious shops in
the city (see pages 26 29). Little Str. Ion Campineanu,
between Balcescu and Calea Victoriei, is also becoming
a funky little place to shop, with lots of boutiques and
delicatessens. The Peasant and Village museums (see
page 67) are good places to pick up Romanian handicrafts
and souvenirs, as well as the Old Town souvenir shop
listed on page 74.
Markets
Liberty Center Str. Progresului 151-171, tel. (+4) 021

369 98 75, contact@libertycenter.ro, www.libertycenter.ro. Tons of great shops, the usual mix of fast food outlets,
and a seven-screen cinema. Trams 23 and 32 from Piata Unirii
stop right outside. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1, www.
unireashop.ro. Once a showpiece of Socialism, this huge
department store is now the best mall in the centre of the city.
There are fashion stores on the first and second floors while
the electronics and household appliance shops on floors three
and four are also worth a visit. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Bookshops
Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharests biggest

and perhaps most famous market. Colourful, huge, and always
lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could buy almost anything, it is now a strictly meat, dairy produce, fruit and
vegetable market. Watch your wallet. Open 06:00 - 20:00.
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei

45, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.librariaengleza.ro.
Stocks a good range of fiction, an exceptional range of nonfiction, plenty of childrens books, and a decent selection of
books about Romania and Bucharest. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul

Unirii. Every Sunday morning this huge piece of wasteland
becomes Sodom and Gomorrah. From allegedly stolen mobile
phones and fake Ralph Lauren shirts to cheap, sandpaperrough toilet paper, everything can be found here, all prices
negotiable. Bus 123 will get you here. Be brave. Open
08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Crturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel.

(+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous
bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of
English books. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Also at (C-5) Str. Edgar
Quinet 9, tel. (+4) 021 311 06 46, Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.
Shopping centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.
aficotroceni.ro. Bucharests best mall, now with an IMAX
cinema. It also has ice skating (year round) and you can get here
easy: it is just a short walk from the Politehnica metro
station. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Baneasa Shopping City os. Bucureti-Ploieti 42D,
tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
This place was the first real mega-mall in Bucharest. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021
327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently ex
tended in a major redevelopment, this is now a real shopping
centre, with plenty of stores you can actually spend money in.
Debenhams is the biggest pull, but hundreds of other brands
also help to bring the punters in. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Local Souvenirs
See also the Old Town Souvenir Shop and Thomas
Antiques (both listed on page 74).
Muzeul Taranului Roman (Peasant Museum) B3, os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. The shop at the Peasant Museum has an
outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular
note are the icons and naive art. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. A
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4)
021 313 14 65. Good place to buy some traditional souvenirs. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at P-ta
Montreal 10 (World Trade Plaza) tel. (+4) 021 319 12 16.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, tel.

(+4) 021 313 50 35, www.librariilehumanitas.ro. Large
bookshop (right next to Anthony Frost, above) selling a vast
range of both Romanian and foreign language books. A good
place to hunt for souvenir, coffee-table books. Open 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Specialist Wine Stores

Arte & Vino C-7, B-dul Mreti 2B (Carol Parc
Residence), tel. (+4) 021 231 52 63/(+4) 0748 08
48 79, office@artevino.ro, www.artevino.ro. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Ethic Wine C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4)
0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Wonderful wine
shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both
of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of
local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from
Cricova in the Republic of Moldova. Open 13:00 - 21:00,
Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Van Gogh Non-Smoking Lounge C-6, Str. Smardan
9, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Just
walking down the stairs from Van Gogh Grand Caf you
will find a century-old vault room. Here you can enjoy great
Romanian and foreign wines complimented by a selection
of fine Dutch cheeses. All in an exclusively non-smoking
space that enhances the tasting experience. All wines
available for sale with delivery options. Open 17:00
-24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (5) B (II [S B
Vinexpert D-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4)
021 327 49 74, www.evinoteca.ro. Open 09:00
21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Center
(P-a Unirii 1), Open 10:00 - 22:00 and (C-6) Cocor (B-dul
I.C. Bratianu 29-33), Open 09:00 -21:00.
direCtory
He-claim your hiving "ap.icuL
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-5) Str.

George Enescu 12 tel. (+4) 021 316 58 76, (A-3) Str. Clucerului
55 tel. (+4) 021 222 92 26 and many other locations.
Dentists
euroministorage
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Flexible, secure, convenient

storage solutions for domestic and
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Clinics & Hospitals
Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta

Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, fax (+4) 021 599 22 57, spital@urgentafloreasca.
ro, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. If youre squashed by a tram
or fall victim to a dodgy sausage, youll be in good hands here
in what is the best state-run hospital in Romania. Efficient,
clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs.
Medsana A-6, Str. Dr. Nanu Muscel 12, tel. (+4) 021
408 78 00, fax (+4) 021 402 80 76, www.medsana.ro.
Another welcome addition to the privately-run medical sector.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also
at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 9, tel. (+4) 021 408 78 00.
Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4,
tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro.
Asclepimed A-6, Str. Grigore Romniceanu 12, tel. (+4)

031 421 24 73, (+4) 0722 71 77 89, fax (+4) 031 421
24 74, office@asclepimed.ro, www.asclepimed.ro.
Much more than just a dentist: this is facial aesthetics;
surgical and non-surgical. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed
16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PA
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion
4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.ro.
Probably the best dentist in the city. Whats more, you
can bring the kids too, as they now have special rooms
equipped just for them. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99.
Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88
56. PTA
Dent-A-America B-3, Str. Varsovia 4, tel. (+4) 021 230
26 08/(+4) 021 230 28 26, fax (+4) 021 230 28 27,
receptie@dent-a-americainc.ro, www.dent-a-americainc.
ro. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Denta G D-5, B-dul Carol I 37, tel. (+4) 021 313 87 14/
(+4) 031 805 99 97, fax (+4) 021 313 33 06, office@
dentag.ro, www.dentag.ro.
Dental Standard E-5, Str. Fluierului 17D, tel. (+4) 0726
42 94 72, office@dentalstandard.ro, www.dentalstandard.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Velvet
Medical C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 29 (Bectro Center), tel. (+4)
021 317 39 97/(+4) 0722 45 30 12, www.velvetdental.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
GERMAN DENTIST
^^Your Family Dental Office^

***** Ê^^*^ ******
DENTAL lltfLANTS
êiperienceinlteinpisistojjea
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iifbrtsw*i9yeai5ju?aftee
89
STERUZATW
In cut cine ra sfcnjutrj*i rucnss hgieslbdpossUt
KIDS DENTISTRY
ti(ki7THiDH*sl[*iJ*taitSdNO
piii- nrnrivn fcctaques d utoacn
and rtvWKi'i wsatm Specs
bHtraAnom br diMii L
ROTH: (*4) 0720199 S99
Caiea Dorafcanb nr 2C3
www.gemiandeilisl.ro
90
direCtory
Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211
98 71.
Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00.
Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, tel.
(+4) 021 206 16 00.
Syria B-4, B-dul Lascr Catargiu 50, tel. (+4) 021
319 24 67.
Turkey B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 72, tel. (+4) 021 206
37 00.
UK & Northern Ireland C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel.
(+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
Dry cleaners
Immaculate Cleaners C-4, Str. Polona 76, tel. (+4)
021 211 44 13, www.immaculate.ro. The best dry
cleaners in town offers free collection and delivery. Open
07:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201
56 12.
Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307
50 00.
Chile B-4, Calea Griviei 24, et. 4, tel. (+4) 021 312
72 39.
China B-1, Sos. Nordului 2, tel. (+4) 021 232 17 32.
Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 313
04 57.
Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300
08 00.
Egypt D-4, B-dul Dacia 67, tel. (+4) 021 211 09 38.
European Union Delegation C-5, Str. Vasile Lascr 31,
tel. (+4) 021 203 54 00.
Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 04.
France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
209 41 73.
Hungary C-4, Str. Prof. Dr. Dimitrie Gerota 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310
21 61.
Israel C-7, B-dul Dimitrie Cantemir 1, tronson 2+3, bl.
B2, et. 5, tel. (+4) 021 318 94 17.
Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
Lebanon B-3, Str. Andrei Muresanu 16, tel. (+4) 021
230 81 75.
Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4) 021
210 08 80.
M oldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74.
Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021
208 60 30.
Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
Philippines A-6, Str. Carol Davilla 105-107, et. 5, ap.
10-11, tel. (+4) 021 319 82 52.
Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
For a full list of foreign embassies and representations

in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.
Centru Civic (Civic Centre)

B/C/D/E-6, B-dul Unirii, P-ta Unirii. Of all the atrocities commited on Romanian territory in the name of socialism, few rank as monstrous as the destruction of an
entire district of the capital to make way for the Centru
Civic, or Civic Centre, in English. But that is what happened in 1980s Bucharest, as the entire Uranus district
(and much else) was completely razed to the ground, with
little regard for the people living there, or for the historical
importance of the buildings destroyed.
For example, the centrepiece of the Civic Centre,
Casa Poporului (see page 67), stands on the site of
the Republicii sports stadium, a wonderful art deco
construction built in the 1930s. A tiny part of terracing
remains in the park to the north of the Casa Poporului.
Apart from the stadium, numerous churches, houses,
hospitals and even a monastery were demolished to
make way for Casa Poporului, Piata Unirii and for the five
kilometre-long Bulevardul Unirii, which stand today as
little more than monuments to madness. The northern
end of Bulevardul Unirii (the original name of which was
Bulevardul Victoria Socialismului - Victory of Socialism
Boulevard) has become a bit of a ghost town, while Casa
Poporului is now the site of the Romanian parliament, and
is the citys most popular attraction.
direCtory
WiFi W
Bucharest is now dotted with hundreds of Wifi hotspots,
and the vast majority are free. It is rare in fact that you
will come across a venue which does not have Wifi.
Usually, all you will need is a password (divulged as you
order something) though many venues in Old Town dont
even bother: you can simply sit down and start surfing
away. In our listings, we have used the Wifi symbol W
to denote all venues which have Wifi.
Old Town Conference Suites

Van Gogh Spaces C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4)
021 313 93 15, www.vangogh.ro. More than a mere
conference suite, the spaces on the upper floors of the
buildings above the Van Gogh Cafe are multi-purpose
suites available for standard conferences, but also featuring a number of instant offices.Q PJW
Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18/(+4)
0722 20 51 10, www.elchei.ro. Call the (+4) 0722 20 51 10
number of you get locked out of your apartment late at night.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.
Opticians
Optiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021
305 73 15, www.optiblu.ro. Sensiblu the chemists now
also offers an optician in some of its outlets. Open 09:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun.
Optiplaza B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania), tel. (+4)
0372 71 10 00, plaza@optiplaza.ro, www.optiplaza.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-7) Bucuresti Mall, Baneasa
Shopping City and many other locations.
Pharmacies
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Open
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other
locations around the city.
Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu.
com. Open 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4)
021 233 89 61, and many other locations.
Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur
Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918),
tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66.
Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4)
031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.
1 = 4.35 lei, 1 = 5.03 lei

US$ = 3.22 lei
(As of November 30, 2011)
91
92
direCtory
INTERNATIONAL
BRITISH SCHOOL Of BUCHAREST
EDUCnTIOK WIT HOLT IIOHTLUI
In
-Kl.'i'.'.i'JoJ"
MaHif. '-&Ui.t*0*jr
II AfniiifHir Snivt I'tifimi 2
\\... in,,-.;
Inlematioml British School of Bucharest >$ a fnvete
educational institution for students aged 3 to 19

The school employs British tjuaMred end inJemgf'tm$i
teachers, with all Wessons being taught in English
The school follows the fJehonal Cufnculbm of England
and Wales, and schemes of uwfr as ^Jvenoal by tfie
QuaWTcdlicrts and Curriculum Autkonty.
Assessment and record keeping is carried out tfi Jlne
tn'Jfi Ita practices of rheaDoue a^rhon'ti'M - including
end of Key Stage Standard Assessment Tests.
iBSB is registered wth ihe Department for Education in
the United Kingdom (DIES no 7036303).
The school rs a tuity accredited memoero! COBiS,
ECIS, CIS, and the first school recognised by the
Romanian Ministry of Education through ARAOP.
IBSB is also an accredited centre (or Cambridge
University Cnacxpoinl, SGCSEandALevel courses.
Bucharest With Children

Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit
with children. The major problem is that the vast
majority of the citys museums with a few honourable
and notable exceptions - are dull, offer no interactivity
and little to captivate little minds. The exceptions are
the outstanding Village Museum (see page 67), which
children love, as they can scurry around the houses,
explore and generally be kids without worrying too
much about grump security guards telling them off.
The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty
Romanian sweets helps too.
The Peasant Museum (see page 67) will please older
children, especially those who know a little Romanian
history (and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the
back of the museum, has puppet shows most weekend
mornings at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology
Museum (see page 68) across the road is a must for
families: it is one of only two museums in Bucharest that
puts on exhibitions specifically for kids. The other is the
excellent Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum,
see page 68.
We recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious
little place that is the National Technical Museum at the
entrance to Parcul Carol. While very old fashioned and a bit
dusty, the kids loved it, as it is packed with models and exhibits
of things which are right up their street: trains, cars, engines,
jet packs, planes and such like.
The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances
most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening)

and is always a hit with kids. You will find details of its
performances at the website circulglobus.ro.
Bucharests Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn left at the
Police Academy) is better than it has been for years, if
still not perhaps offering the range of animals you would
expect to find in Europes better zoos. They do have a fine
collection of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out for
kids. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The
zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00.
And then of course there are the parks. Cismigiu (B-5)
and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central.
An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland
Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when it
rains. Featuring the biggest indoor playground we have seen
(30 lei, kids can stay all day), bowling, arcade games and
plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee
in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of Unirea
Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii.
For a swim there is Daimon, a sports club in Parcul Tineretului,
busy with the fitze crowd at weekends but good during
the week. There are also pools open to the public at the
InterContinental a n d Ramada Majestic hotels, as well as
at the World Class Health Clubs. For more on Swimming
in Bucharest see the box on page 93, opposite.
direCtory
Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live here in Bucharest, the good
news is that the city has some outstanding schools: both
state and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state
schools in Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which
regularly meet an outstanding academic level, even if their
facilities are somewhat lacking (few state schools have
sports fields and such like). There are huge differences
between state schools however, and competition for places
at the best is tough. There is also of course the fact that
unless your kids can speak Romanian, the state system
will be practically closed to them.
Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill
this breach, and there are now a number of excellent
private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of
education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats:
many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children
to these private schools). We provide a list of the best
private schools below. All boast outstanding academic
records and modern facilities, native English speaking
teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
International Schools
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/

(+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@
aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro.
British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae
42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33, fax
(+4) 021 267 89 69, office@britishschool.ro,
www.britishschool.ro.
Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile
Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4) 021
323 54 08, director@bcaromania.org, www.bcaromania.org.
International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori
21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253 16
97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
International School for Primary Education
(INS) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence,
tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, fax
(+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www.insb.ro.
International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara
Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021
306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro.
Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85,
fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com,
www.jpschool.ro.
Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021
320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@
yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro.
Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu
Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00
09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwainschool.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro.
Quality Education in English

for children 1-11 years old
International School for

Primary Education
Green Lake Residences 72
Petre Aurelian street Bucharest 1
phonr; -40? 1 330 353?

**0 71J80
fat +J10 311H0 JHJB officeînipe.fo wwwJrupt.ro
Swimming Pools & Health Clubs

Daimon Sport Club D-8, Parcul Tineretului (Opposite
Sala Polivalenta), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 021 330 50 71,
www.daimonsportclub.ro. Tennis club, with a great indoor
swimming pool. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Pool costs 40 lei per
person, children under twelve 25 lei. Sauna included.
Hilton Health Club C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Indoor
pool, sauna, weight room, and a host of top facilities. Call
for membership prices.QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 21:00.
Intercontinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4, tel.
(+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably the smallest swimming pool
in Romania on top of what for years was the tallest building
(22 floors). Q Open 06:00 - 22:00. Adult day entrance
85 lei, children 35 lei; Under fives free. Call for membership
prices.
World Class Health Academy B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott), tel. (+4) 021 403 09 00,
www.worldclass.ro. Massive fitness centres all over
the city with gyms, pools, squash courts and aerobics
facilities. Call for details of special membership packages.
Day tickets available. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 21:00. Also at (B-5) Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Centre
Ville Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 313 11 04; Jolie Ville Galleria
(Pipera) Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 103 bis, tel. (+4) 021 269
01 60; Calea Dudesti 188 (InCity Residences), tel. (+4)
031 432 86 00; B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania),
tel. (+4) 021 318 36 81; Str. Fabrica de Glucoza 9-11
(Upground), tel. (+4) 0729 618 700.
93
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street register & hoteL MaP indeX

13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str.
C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str. Str. C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str.
C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata
D6
Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
Covaci, Str.
Crisana, Str.
Crisului, Str.
Cronicarilor, Str.
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd.
Dacia, Bd.
A5
C6
A5
C6
C3
A4
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr.

B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee
C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str.
B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., B6
Str. C4
Drobeta, Str.
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str.
B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, G-ral, Str.
C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Iz vor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd
B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5

Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd
C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str.
A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Poet, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
Natiunile Unite, Piata
Neculce Ion, Str.
Negri Costache, Str.
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
Occidentului, Str.
Oslo, Str.
Ostasilor, Str.
Otetari,str.
Paris, Str.
Parvan Vasile, Str.
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
Patriarhiei, Str.
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
Philippide Alexandru, Str.
Piata Amzei, Str.
Pitar Mos, Str.
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
Politie, Str.
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
Polona, Str.
Poni Petru, Str.
Popa Tatu, Str.
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
Povernei, Str.
Praga, Str.
B5
B6
B6
A3
A6
A4
C3
B4
B3
B5
C5
B3
B5
A6
C6
C4
C4
B4
C5
B6
B5
B6
A4
C4
A4
B5
A6
B4
B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str.
C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str.
B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd.
B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str.
B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea
D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str.
B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str.
C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3
INDEX TO HOTEL
NUMBERS ON MAP
H1
Helvetia
H2
Casa Victor
H3
Picollo Mondo
H4
Hello Hotels
H5
Andys
H6
Moxa
H7
Starlight
H8
Duke
H9
Golden Tulip
H10 Residence Arcul de Trimf
H11
Hotel Dan
H12
JW Marriott
H13
Parliament
H14
Ibis Parlament
H15
Volo
H16
Berthelot
H17
Centre Ville
H18
Opera
H19
Palace
H20
Central
H21
Carol Parc
H22
Hilton
H23
Novotel
H24
Capitol
H25
Grand
Continental
H26
Lido
(closed)
H27
Ambasador
H28
Radisson Blu
H29
Rembrandt
H30
Tania
H31 Relax Comfort Suites
H32
Intercontinental
H33
K+K Elisabeta
H34
Horoscop
H35
Tempo Hotel
H36
Royal
H37 International Bucharest
H38
Hotel Confort Traian
H39 Double Tree by Hilton
H40
Ramada
Majestic
H41
Ibis Gara
De
H42
SuterNord
Inn
H43
NH Bucharest
H44
Howard Johnson
H45
Scala
H46
Trianon
H47
Epoque
H48
Z Boutique
H49
Bruxelles
H50 Boutique Hotel Monaco
H51
Minerva
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BUCHAREST
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92 KISElEFr AVENUE
021 206 6261 - HARDBCKK.tO.Vl
CASINO BUCHAREST
wticoME to IHI *vAens" aw
Intercontinental Hotel
4 N. Bakescu Blvd., Bucharest
www.castnQbuchrcstio
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BUCHAREST

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