8 International Herald Tribune

CULTURE & MORE

****
Tuesday, August 28, 2007

A more mature Kanye, trying to be cool

PEOPLE

A
Turkish film about the fear of
God overwhelming a true
believer caught up in a
powerful religious group has been
The Osnabrück Symphony
Orchestra of Germany, led by the
conductor Hermann Baeumer, will By Jon Caramanica rap and polishing them to a pop sheen. But
perform a program of Beethoven and while clearly steeped in hip-hop’s sonic

I
chosen as the best movie at the 13th Brahms in Tehran on Wednesday and NEW YORK traditions, he was an outsider to its lyrical
Sarajevo Film Festival, Reuters Thursday, the Associated Press t was trademark Kanye West petu- ones, rapping on ‘‘The College Dropout,’’
reported. ‘‘Takva: A Man’s Fear of reported. The visit is part of an lance. Late last year at the MTV his 2004 debut, about higher education,
God,” directed by Ozer Kiziltan, won exchange program between the two Europe Music Awards, his clip for class struggle and his own self-doubts in
the Heart of Sarajevo award, which nations, and follows a concert by the ‘‘Touch the Sky’’ lost the award for ways particular to his middle-class up-
comes with a prize of ¤25,000, or Tehran Symphony Orchestra last year video of the year to ‘‘We Are Your Friends,’’ bringing. (His mother was a college profes-
about $34,000. A jury led in Osnabrück. The female by the electronic musicians Justice vs. sor, his father a photojournalist.) The result
by the British actor German musicians will Simian. As So Me, the director of the win- was a success with both hip-hop’s main-
Jeremy Irons made the observe Iranian law and ning video, was accepting the award, West, stream and its alternative (or ‘‘backpack-
decision, and the award wear headscarves. the multiplatinum rapper-producer, er’’) wing. (West wore a backpack, but it
was presented at the jumped onstage and interrupted him. was by Louis Vuitton.) ‘‘Late Registration,’’
festival’s closing night Prince Charles’s wife ‘‘Hell, no!’’ West shouted. He boasted his follow-up from 2005, tackled similar
ceremony. In the film a has announced that she that his video cost $1 million and ranted, subject matter and was more musically ad-
pious Istanbul man leads a will not attend a service ‘‘If I don’t win, your awards show loses venturous and ostentatious.
solitary life until a marking the 10th credibility.’’ To date his most successful songs — ‘‘Je-
religious group recruits anniversary of the death West had long had a reputation as a sus Walks,’’ ‘‘All Falls Down’’ and ‘‘Gold
him to work as a rent of Princess Diana, after venter, a performer whose public persona Digger’’ — have centered on larger ideas,
collector. His new job, criticism that her presence was refreshingly unchecked. When he pro- but overall the tracks on ‘‘Graduation’’ are
which thrusts him into would be inappropriate. claimed that ‘‘George Bush doesn’t care less conceptual, and less orchestrated,
the modern world, tests AP Camilla Parker-Bowles, about black people’’ on a telethon after Hur- than his previous work. He samples Elton
his religious devotion. The Camilla Duchess of Cornwall, had ricane Katrina, he helped galvanize the hip- John and Mountain and includes a piano
seven-day festival Parker-Bowles accepted an invitation hop world. This MTV outburst, though, jam, ‘‘Homecoming,’’ featuring Coldplay’s
included screenings of from Charles and his sons, came off like the gripes of a typical egotist. Chris Martin, which recalls early Billy
more than 170 feature films, shorts Prince William and Prince Harry, to Suddenly he seemed like a blowhard, an Joel. The album’s subject matter hops from
and documentaries. accompany them to the service ingrate. His outburst was posted on You- casual boasting (‘‘Barry Bonds’’) to an ode
Friday at the Guards’ Chapel in Tube and widely mocked. to Jay-Z, West’s friend and mentor (‘‘Big
Cormac McCarthy has been London’s Wellington Barracks. Some ‘‘A complete momentum killer’’ is how Brother’’), to the self-explanatory (‘‘Drunk
awarded the James Tait Black criticized the decision, since Camilla West sheepishly described the incident one and Hot Girls’’). In parts, like the astral
Memorial Prize for fiction for his had an affair with Charles when he recent evening as he relaxed at Chung King ‘‘Flashing Lights,’’ he is at his best, but un-
novel ‘‘The Road,’’ the BBC reported. was still married to Diana. (AP) Studios here, where he was finishing his like his previous albums ‘‘Graduation’’
The prize was announced at the third album, ‘‘Graduation,’’ due Sept. 11 on doesn’t completely cohere.
Edinburgh International Book The Bollywood star Salman Khan Def Jam Records. Kicking off a pair of sil- As he listened to ‘‘Graduation’’ tracks at
Festival. McCarthy was not in has been arrested by the Indian ver Yves Saint Laurent high-top sneakers, Chung King, West was so swaggering and
attendance. McCarthy’s 10th novel, police and sent to jail after a court he compared himself to a giant stomping loudmouthed that he seemed to absorb all
the story of a father and son in a rejected his appeal against a five-year on ‘‘the people’s champ.’’ The day after the of the energy in the room. But in between
postapocalyptic world, also won the sentence for shooting endangered awards, he said, he holed up in his hotel bouts of fist pumping he made earnest eye
Pulitzer Prize for fiction this year. In gazelles. Television pictures showed room, chastened, ruminating over the bad contact with the engineers and musicians
Edinburgh, Byron Rogers the muscular actor press. ‘‘It was like I had killed somebody,’’ and other people around him, clearly seek-
won in the biography surrounded by policemen he said. ing approbation. ‘‘He understands what
category for his book as he left the Jodhpur It was one in a series of regrettable people can bring to him, and he’s not
‘‘The Man Who Went Into airport after arriving from events and choices that brought out the re- Damon Winter/The New York Times scared to reach for that,’’ said Alain (A-
the West: The Life of R. S. Mumbai. Television crews lentless self-questioner in him. West, 30, Kanye West titled his newest album, set for a Sept. 11 release, ‘‘Graduation.’’ Trak) Macklovitch, West’s D.J.
Thomas,’’ about the Welsh and fans jostled to get a began to re-examine every aspect of his ca- Time and self-reflection seem to have
poet. In announcing the glimpse of him and the reer, from his music to his image to his fashion sense. sanded down some of his rougher edges. While he is
awards a judge, Colin police struggled to keep ‘‘Certain ways that I approached things, I could have still given to pronouncements about his greatness, he
Nicholson, a professor at order. (Reuters) done it with more tact and more class,’’ he said. ‘He likes branching out and no longer appears to be waging war. Recently the rap-
the University of In part ‘‘Graduation’’ is the product of those efforts. pers Beanie Sigel and 50 Cent taunted him publicly,
Edinburgh said both Deputies searching the It is his most eclectic album, drawing on a wide mu- doing these odd things but West didn’t snipe back.
books were ‘‘destined to home of the rapper DMX sical palette, including classic rock and dance music. Jay-Z, the rapper and president of Def Jam Records,
become classics in their during an investigation And these musical shifts coincide with West’s devel- with his music.’ West’s label, described some of his friend’s old beha-
Reuters
respective genres.” The into claims of animal oping his interests in other areas. He nods to hipster vior as ‘‘overcompensation.’’ Now West has realized
University of Edinburgh Salman Khan cruelty found about a half- culture with an album cover designed by the Japanese ‘‘he doesn’t have to fight for that respect,’’ Jay-Z said.
began awarding the two pound of suspected illegal pop artist Takashi Murakami and an alternate video one of the few bankable hip-hop stars, it’s a poten- ‘‘He believes he has his just due. It’s growth.’’
prizes in 1919. Past winners include narcotics, the sheriff of Maricopa for ‘‘Can’t Tell Me Nothing’’ starring the alternative tially risky time to be broadening, or diluting, his In early August West went to MTV for an afternoon
D. H. Lawrence and E. M. Forster. County, Arizona, has said. No charges comedian Zach Galifianakis, who filmed it at his palette. Rap loyalists may blanch at his new direc- taping of ‘‘TRL,’’ which doubled as a news conference
have been filed or arrests made. The North Carolina farm. tions, but West has never been solely beholden to rap for this year’s MTV Video Music Awards. West was
Luciano Pavarotti has been sheriff, Joe Arpaio, said the Galifianakis lip-syncs to the song as he drives a fans or to rap modes of thought. While other hip-hop nominated in five categories. In the best video catego-
released from a hospital in his investigation into alleged animal tractor, accompanied by the indie-rocker Will Old- stars (50 Cent, Timbaland) have been flirting lately ry, up against West’s ‘‘Stronger,’’ was a familiar name:
hometown, Modena, Italy, after more cruelty was ongoing, and the ham and a troupe of clog dancers. with pop collaborations to extend their brands, West Justice, nominated for the inventive clip for
than two weeks of treatment and suspected drugs were being tested to ‘‘He likes branching out and doing these odd things has succeeded in large part by imposing his ornate ‘‘D.A.N.C.E.’’ It looked like an obvious trap, and for a
testing since he was admitted with a confirm their content. The search with his music,’’ said Galifianakis, who added that he style of hip-hop onto the mainstream. moment it seemed certain that West would fall right
high fever on Aug. 8, the BBC was prompted by reports that pit tried to connect West and Oldham to discuss a poten- And sometimes on rap fans as well. His current into it. ‘‘If anyone goes to YouTube and sees the video
reported. Pavarotti, 71, underwent bulls kept by the rapper at the home tial collaboration. ‘‘It also expands his reach a bit.’’ single, ‘‘Stronger,’’ which samples the innovative that I lost to, you’ll see that I was robbed,’’ he told the
surgery for pancreatic cancer in July in rural north Phoenix were not West is no longer just concerned with being popu- French DJ duo Daft Punk, has been well received. ‘‘This cameras, referring to last year’s upset.
2006, and has not been seen in being given enough food or water. A lar; he also wants to be cool. But given the double-di- is a good thing for the genre,’’ said Ebro Darden, pro- But in the end he didn’t take the bait. ‘‘I would feel
public since. At the time, he was in dozen pit bulls were seized, the git decline in rap sales this year and West’s status as gram director of Hot 97, a New York FM radio station, better to lose to this video right here, because this
the midst of a farewell tour and had bodies of three dogs were dug up in of West’s sometimes unconventional reference points. video is completely genius,’’ he said of ‘‘D.A.N.C.E.,’’
hoped to continue the tour this year, the yard and a variety of assault-style A native of Chicago, West emerged on the hip-hop with what sounded like honest enthusiasm. ‘‘I think
but so far his health has not allowed weapons were taken from the home, iht.com/culture scene six years ago as a traditionalist producer, resur- my video’s the best, but, you know, I could respect
him back onstage. Arpaio said. (AP) Audio clips from West’s albums, past and present. recting the dusty sounds of early 1990s New York-style that.’’ It wasn’t quite humility, but it was a start.

STYLE

Throwing a designer pajama party

With less
time and
more
money,
parents are
splurging on
sleepwear Douce

By Jessica Michault

T
LOS ANGELES
he days of summer are coming to an end and
parents around the world are scrambling to
find those last elusive back-to-school neces-
sities for their children before the first
school bell rings. But the coolest backpack or the
must-have accessories for that all-important first-
day outfit aren’t the only luxury items parents are
splurging on. Proud moms and dads are now shelling
out their hard-earned cash for clothing that likely
won’t even see the light of day — premium pajamas.
As an increase in two-income families means
working parents leaving earlier and getting home
later, it comes as no surprise that for the few precious
hours they get to spend with their children, they
want to see them wearing clothing that is attractive.
And with more women waiting longer to have chil-
dren and returning to the work force before their kids
are up and walking, they often have more disposable
income to spend on their adored offspring.
Many working mothers ‘‘get home just in time to put
their kids to bed. The children are already fed, bathed
and in their PJs,’’ says Amy Lassalle, the owner of two
Parisian stores called Le Marchand d’Étoiles (or ‘‘The
Sandman’’) that specialize in quality sleepwear for
children. ‘‘It is normal then that they want to see them
in something charming as well as comfortable.’’
It’s a wonder that the market for luxury pajamas
hasn’t taken off sooner, as the very successful design-
er daywear market for children seems to have hit a
saturation point. Unlike the daytime clothing,
however, designer pajamas are still an affordable lux-
ury, with prices starting at under $50. So parents
looking for new ways to spend their money are no
longer limiting that pursuit to the time when their
children are awake.
‘‘Raising children these days is very different from
years past,’’ says Françoise Shirley, the owner of
Sleepyheads.com, the premium pajama resource for
Hollywood moms and luxury PJ aficionados. For par-
ents, ‘‘the expectations appear to be higher than ever
for your child to achieve academically, socially, ath-
letically starting at a very young age. So we as par-
ents want to give them all the tools necessary to do
that, so that may include piano lessons at 2, dance les-
sons at 3, soccer at 4 and along the way the best of the
best in everything from food to clothing.’’
Shirley has seen an increase in sales of about 20
percent each year for the past two years in her luxury
children’s pajamas and believes this category will
continue to grow significantly.
But buying luxury pajamas isn’t only about giving
children the best of everything. Parents are buying
Emmanuel Pierrot
high-end sleepwear as much for themselves as for
their kids. Stylish moms and dads are now looking for
a continuation of the cool attire they have purchased
for their children to wear to school.
This means seasonal sleepwear collections that
follow more closely the trends seen on the fashion
catwalks. Color palettes and styles that are reminis-
cent of those that might be worn by a fashion-savvy
mother. And even the perennial parental fashion fa-
vorite of matching outfits for multiple children has
evolved into luxury pajamas styles that can be worn
Pajamas are no
longer being
perceived as a strictly
functional purchase:
they have moved into
the realm of all
things fashionable.
At far left, sleepwear
sold in the two Le
Marchand d’Étoiles
by the whole family, from infant to grandparent. boutiques in Paris
‘‘When you are invited to spend the weekend at (first four images);
someone’s house or they have a sleepover you want left and above,
them to look good, you want to show them off,’’ says nighttime fashions
Sheena de Boisgelin, the managing director of the from Douce, a
four-year-old British children’s clothing brand Douce children’s clothing
that carries both luxury pajamas and daywear. brand. In their most
The world of luxury sleepwear is not just becom- recent collections
ing more stylish; it is also going through a major these two brands
transformation. The change can already be seen in showed how the line
brands like Le Marchand d’Étoiles and Douce, which between sleepwear
have started to tap into the next important phase in and loungewear has
the children’s sleepwear market. In their most recent started to blur.
collections these two brands showed how the line be-
tween sleepwear and loungewear has started to blur.
As children spend nearly half of every day wearing
their pajamas, this transition to more sophisticated
sleepwear that can double as loungewear looks to be
the future of luxury children’s pajamas.
While almost every parent has cringed with regret
on seeing a brand-new outfit come home from school
looking tattered and worn, the more forgiving world
of luxury sleepwear means that buying beautiful and
stylish pajamas might just be the better investment.
And nothing beats that all-important ‘‘ah’’ moment
when the children are trotted out to say goodnight
wearing sweet and stylish sleepwear.
‘‘Now that my kids are old enough to stay up I love
having them meet people we have over for dinner,’’
says Tina Lignell, a public relations consultant and
mother of 2-year-old twin girls. ‘‘My guests always go
wild about the PJs.’’