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Paint Problems

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Common Application Errors and Remedies
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General Problems
Responsibility and Safety

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General Problems
Blushing
Generally caused by high humidity and
temperature. The paint will appear to be blotchy,
milky, or cloudy. This is very common in lacquer
paints, but is also seen in other paint systems as
well. The solvent evaporation can cause the
temperature to dip below the dew point which will
cause moisture to develop into the paint film. High
humidity used in combination with a fast or non
compassable thinner will further aggravate the
problem.
To repair the problem:
If the paint has not cured apply heat to the surface
using either a heated paint booth or a common
heat gun.
If you are experiencing blushing after a first coat
you can add some retarder or a slower
reducer/thinner. Using a slower drying paint thinner
will allow the water molecules to evaporate before
the film locks the water in.
If the paint has dried you can try to buff the finish to
a gloss, however in most cases you can expect to
sand and repaint the substrate in better painting
conditions.
Solvent Popping
Solvent pop happens when solvent becomes
trapped in the paint and the paint surface forms a
skin surface preventing evaporation. When
solvents do leave the paint film the pop through the
surface rather than normal evaporation. Solvent
pop looks like pinholes, tiny craters, or little pop
marks. Solvent popping ca happen from using a
thinner too fast for the ambient temperature,
insufficient flash time in between coats, or the
application of coats too heavy.
You cant repair the problem. You will need to sand
down the finish and repaint it. Use a slower thinner,
wait longer in between coats, and apply less
material.
Orange Peel
Orange peel is very common, it will appear to have
a texture like an orange. Using insufficient air
volume and/or pressure or not using enough paint
thinner will greatly effect the flow out of sprayed

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paints. If the pressure is too low the paint will not

atomize properly. If the paint thinner it too fast it will
evaporate before allowing the paint to flow out.
Extreme heavy coats will cause a heavy pattern
once it is dry. Piling on thick coats may get rid of
orange peel upon application but will show up
before the paint is dry. In order to remove the
orange peel sand the finish with wet sandpaper
and then buff it with a high speed buffer.
Dieback, Loss of Gloss
Loss of gloss can happen from many things.
Applying too much paint whether the coats are too
heavy or too many coats without a long enough dry
time between coats. Using a low grade thinner may
also be a factor in the same problem. If the primer
or color or other undercoat has not properly dried
solvent may be trapped and will evaporate slowly
causing dieback. Of course not using enough paint
or a clearcoat will cause the finish to never shine
well. If you spray the paint in an enclosed booth the
paint thinners may evaporate, but if they do not
have anywhere to go it can settle right back on the
finish making it dull. Also if the surface you are
painting is porous solvents can be absorbed into
the surface and then later want to release through
the new finish(example detiorating paint). In a
catalyzed paint the surface is chemically cured and
will not allow the solvents to penetrate through the
surface. Solvents will definitely over time find a way
to escape through which leave tiny microscopic
holes which at a normal viewing look as though it
is not as shiny as it should be. In an automotive
finish it can take about one month after a new paint
job. In most cases the remedy is to simply use a
high speed buffer. The type of rubbing compound,
glazes, and pads may change upon application.
Extreme cases may need to be sanded down and
refinished. Old paint will ultimately lose gloss
under exposures to UV sunlight, humidity, dirt,
salts, abrasions, and chemicals or a combination
of several of these factors.
To prevent loss of gloss or dieback pay attention to
directions. Use the right reduction ratios and the
appropriate thinner for the job. Wait the
recommended drying times in between coats.
Apply the right amount of paint on the coat. Use an
electronic film thickness gauge to determine how
much paint you applied if you have a
recommended mil thickness. If you apply to much
paint per coat you may need to adjust your air
pressure and the fluid nozzle of the spray gun. With
training using a high quality paint will normally have
less problems in application and will hold its gloss
much longer than a generic paint.
Runs, dripping paint
This problem is very easy to spot. The paint starts
to drip and it dries with the running finish where the
paint forms a drip motion. It is caused by using too
much thinner or using thinner that will not
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evaporate quickly enough. If the paint has not dried

long enough in between coats or a double coating
application it will keep the paint thin enough to run
down especially on a vertical surface. Cold metal or
cold paint temperature and your paint gun setup
may have a few factors to be aware of.

Flaking Paint, Delamination

When paint has an adhesion problem it is
commonly prepped incorrectly or not prepared for
painting at all. Most surfaces need to be properly
cleaned and sanded or scuffed with a grit
appropriate for the coating. Sometimes the
omission of primer or using a primer incompatible
for the surface can cause paint delamination. For
instance certain primers need an etching or wash
primer to convert the surface. Plastics need types
of primer for adhesion. Fiberglass and gel coats
can be tricky too. If you put a paint layer on after the
maximum recommended dry time the re-coat
window may have expired. Each layer will have a
difficult time melting into the previous layer. Not
using enough of the paint will have bad film
integrity and will fail. On occasion it is possible
using incompatible products may be the cause of
flaking paint. Certain paints will not go over others.
On a flexible product like plastic may require a flex
agent or paint rubberizer wen using a brittle paint
like lacquer. Flex agent is not always the answer
because it can both soften the film and cause the
clearcoat to yellow sooner. Use recommended
amounts of it.
To fix delamination you will need to sand it down
and repaint it. Sometimes you can feather sand it
until the paint has a good grip, or you will need to
sand it bare down to the primer or bare surface.
Bleeding
Bleeding is when pigment from an undercoat
bleeds though the paint layers discoloring it.
Discoloration is very common when you paint a
white paint over a red paint. To avoid Bleed though
you can either sand to completely remove the
undercoat or use a compatible 2 component
catalyzed primer or sealer.

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