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ISSUE 323
FEATURES
17
Guiding Life
Rob Coppolillo details the
sometimes-grueling but alwaysrewarding process of becoming
a guide, from single-pitch rock
climbs to big alpine objectives.
40
Expaddiction
A powerful wilderness experience, the companionship of
new friends, and a raw, powerful
adventure. Heres what has
gotten this pro climber addicted
to expeditions. Plus, more than
a dozen necessary skills to make
your big trip safe and successful.
By Mike Libecki
56
Built to Last?
We examine the what, how,
and why of failing bolts across
the worldfrom Thailand to
Washington stateand how the
unregulated practice of bolting is
about to change.
By Jeff Achey
64
Its Always Sunny In
Fight off the winter climbing
bluesand get out of the gym!
at these six cold-weather-friendly
destinations, complete with warm
temps and plentiful sunshine.
By Amanda Fox
ANDREW BURR
CONTENTS
CLIMBING.COM
|1
issue 323
skills
25
6
Leadership
What differentiates a guide from
a really good climber? Hint: Its
not just about the technical skills.
Plus, ve cool tips to add to
your toolbox.
Editors Note
8
Flash
17
76
The Guide
Auto-Blocking Munter
Learn yet another use for this
versatile hitch: Put it in guide mode
with just one extra carabiner.
33
Gear
38
77
Semi-Rad
Safer Lowering
Prevent a potentially fatal lowering
accident with these best practices
for communication.
75
Clinics
75
Relaxing Breath
Though your muscles are working
hard on a difcult route, slow down
your breathing to nab the send.
80
Opposite and Opposed
If youre up high and have run out
of locking carabiners, use two
non-lockers instead.
health and
traininG
26
Freaky Fit
CrossFit, yoga, running, and skiing
are all examples of how guides
stay in extraordinarily good shape.
Here are a few more ways to
train like a guideaccessible to
climbers of all levels.
28
Pro Fuel
Food is a crucial part of any major
ascent, from 10 pitches of sandstone to three days on a glacier.
Make sure you eat right with tips
from guides on what to pack.
Gear
78
33
Super-Light Shells
With spring showers come
breathable, lightweight rain
shells. Here are Climbing
testers picks for the ve best
jackets of this season.
2 | march 2014
andrew burr
contents
Editor
Shannon daviS
Art Director
Jacqueline mccaffrey
Gear Editor
Julie elliSon
Destinations Editor
amanda fox
Editor at Large
dougald macdonald
Senior Contributing
Photographer
andrew Burr
Staff Photographer
Ben fullerton
Tablet Media Specialist
cryStal Sagan
Intern
claire rickS
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EDITORS
NOTE
Spring Ahead
BY SHANNON DAVIS
anDroiD
Here are ve things from this issue to kick-start your spring season:
1. Sunny crags you can pack your T-shirt for this weekend (p. 64). Top of my
list: Wyomings Guernsey State Park. Its south-facing single-pitch sport routes
get all-day sun on Utah-like rock.
2. Some of the best lightweight shells weve ever tested (p. 33). Stuf one of
these in your pack just in case.
3. Words of wisdom from some of Americas best mountain guides (p. 17).
Learn what it takes to be one, or just enjoy gleaning their hard-won knowledge
on tness, nutrition, and motivating climbing partners (like this nugget: Sometimes its looking people in the eyes and telling them You can do this. Other
times, its telling them to Man the f *** up!).
4. Contributing editor Brendan Leonards column about climbing like a kid
again. We all have goals and tick lists, but dont let those overshadow curiosity.
5. Mike Libeckis best tales from his life of expedition climbing. Precious few
people embrace life like Libecki. His story is a grand exploration of a climbers
need for adventure, a guaranteed stoke boost, and a lot of fun.
to Deep Lake Cirque in Wyomings Wind River Range this coming August at
climbing.com/sfswinds. Then, check out reader essays about last years amazing trip at climbing.com/readerwinds.
JOIN OUR READER PANEL Vote on cover images, weigh in on story ideas,
and help us make the magazine you want by signing up at climbing.com/
readerpanel.
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helps the ankle articulate for a more natural, comfortable exing motion a much appreciated
feature when dealing with steep terrain. Its one of the reasons that the Mountain Expert GTX Evo
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Details like these have earned LOWAs reputation for building the worlds most comfortable and durable outdoor performance footwear since 1923.
flash
Lonnie Kauk
climbing.com
|9
flash
10 |
march 2014
Justin Ridgely
Kris Irwin
climbing.com
| 11
flash
Peter Vintoniv
12 |
March 2014
climbing.com
| 13
flash
Cody Scarpella
Buffalos in Space (5.13),
South Platte, Colorado
14 | marCh 2014
Simon Duverney
Trebenna (5.12d),
geyikbayiri, Turkey
As a member of the French National Ice Team, Duverney is primarily an ice and mixed climber,
but he still managed to ash a
hard variation of this powerful sport route up a long tufa
in Turkey. Duverney has many
impressive competition performances under his belt, including
winning the Elite Mixed Climbing
Competition at the 2013 Ouray
Ice Festival by topping out in
eight minutes, beating the only
other competitor to top out the
long, pumpy route by about 3.5
minutes. The Geyikbayiri area,
about 15 miles from the city of
Antalya, has the highest concentration of routes in Turkey,
with more than 600 established routes of all grades and
seemingly unlimited potential
for more. Check out the JoSiTo
Camp (climbingcamp-antalya.
com) that offers inexpensive
camping, small bungalows, and
larger chalets, with a centralized
restaurant and bar.
PATITuCCIPhOTO
climbing.com
| 15
camp-usa.com
ISSUE 323
Guiding
Guiding is a sought-afer career for
many climbers. The legendary Chamonix climber and guide Gaston Rbuffat
summed it up well: With the inevitable repetition of the same ascents,
the work of the guide could become
tedious, but the guide is not just a machine to climb slopes of ice and walls
of rock, to know the weather and the
route. He does not climb for himself:
He opens the gates of his mountains
for his companion If the guide could
take pleasure only in his own climbing, he would quickly lose his appetite
for the mountains The guide gladly
climbs the same crack or the same
slab ve or 10 times in the summer,
but his happiness comes from a deeper
feeling, his feeling of kinship with the
mountain and the elements, his feeling
of responsibility toward a man who has
complete condence in him.
THE GUIDE
PATITUCCIPHOTO
CLIMBING.COM
| 17
the guide
Guiding
By RoB Coppolillo
The Guiding
Life
wisdom
18 |
March 2014
andy bardon
patitucciphoto
i shadowed a
couple routes in
Eldorado canyon and didnt
offend the clients. by 2006,
beck told me to
either buck up
and do an AmgA
course, or go do
something else. i
took the bait.
Now it was possible to
study in the States and
still receive full international certication in
mountain guiding, just like
men and women from
Chamonix, Zermatt, and
Grindelwald had done for
a century or more.
climbing.com
| 19
the guide
Guiding
20 |
March 2014
consumers. Europeans
dont think twice about
hiring a guide, but here,
theres a block.
Permit issues are
another obstacle to
kArStEN dElAP
DOMINATION
IRONMAN is a registered trademark of the World Triathlon Corporation. 2014 AMERICAS MILK PROCESSORS
the guide
Guiding
kARsteN deLAp
22 |
Marc h 2014
Once you get your pin, you havent hit the nish line. Its really just the beginning of perfecting the craft and trade of mountain guiding.
clock while youre belaying a
follower off your waist, from a
good stance above. The follower
falls and hangs on the rope. From
this point the follower cant help.
You must tie off the belay, escape, and then get to baseline,
meaning youve transferred the
belay line to the anchor and its
afxed with a releasable system.
Then youre free to go for help,
rappel, whatever. At this point in
the test, you either rappel to the
victim (to theoretically provide
rst aid or at least snag the ask
out of his pack) and re-ascend to
your original ledge, or raise the
victim up to where you are using
a 3:1, 5:1, or 6:1 haul system.
Lets assume you rappelled
rst. Once back at the ledge,
youll either haul or lower,
but youll have to do both at
some point. Once those steps
are complete, you prepare a
counterbalance rappel, rap to
the victim, pick him off, and
continue rappelling to the next
anchor. Transfer both of you (he
cant help!) onto the anchor, pull
your ropes, rig another rappel (or
the guide
Guiding
24 |
March 2014
for yourself.
Even if one could
sneak by to get his pin,
Im not sure hed want
to. Skiing in avalanche
terrain, guiding in Eldo,
short-roping loose gulleysif you dont stay
sharp, youll eventually
nd yourself as the guest
of honor at The Big Sleep.
Or maybe youll survive
and end up on YouTube.
But you get it. Oh, and
the punch line to all this?
karsten delap
insight
How to Motivate
Sometimes it takes a carrot; sometimes, a whip.
By AmAndA Fox
Slogging up a snow-
andy bardon
Anna Keeling hails from New Zealand and has been active in adventure sports most of her life. She has lived in the U.S. for 15 years but is also
a member of the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association, where she
works to help promote guiding in her native country. nzmga.org.nz
Margaret Wheeler was the second U.S. woman to complete the IFMGA certication, in 2006. She currently guides in the Northwest and is a
board member and guide instructor for the AMGA. proguiding.com
Howie Schwartz is co-owner of Sierra Mountain Guides in California.
climbing.com
| 25
THE
GUIDE
Guiding
TRAINING
Freaky Fit
Strength
A few common exercises you can
easily employ are the front squat,
deadlift, pull-up, pushup, and
forearm plank.
Do ve sets of 10 reps each of
pushups and pull-ups; do four sets
of four reps for the squats and
deadlifts at 80 percent of your
26 |
MARCH 2014
Forearm plank
Fortify your core
Start in pushup position. Bend
your elbows to 90 degrees, with
forearms at on the oor and
parallel to each other. (For an
easier variation, interlock your
ngers.) Your elbows should be
directly under your shoulders,
and your body should be in a
straight line from your head to
your heels. Keep your core tight
and engaged.
Mobility
Prevent injuries by keeping joints
and muscles nice and loose
throughout the season. Do ve
Turkish getups, rest one minute,
and repeat for three sets. For
both the plank and shoulder
dislocates, do each exercise for
one minute, rest one minute, and
then repeat for ve sets.
Shoulder dislocate
Stretch the chest and deltoids
for better exibility
Use something light, like a broomstick, or stretchy, like a therapy
band. Flexible equipment allows
for more wrist angles, but use
whatever is comfortablejust not
anything heavy. Grip wider than
shoulder-width apart. The closer
the grip, the more intense the
stretch; start wide and gradually
decrease the width with more
practice. Lift the handle over your
head and back down behind you
until the stick reaches hip height.
Return and repeat for one minute.
Turkish getup
Work on thoracic spine, hip,
and shoulder exibility to prevent
pain while hiking and climbing
Lie on your back. Hold a
kettlebell in your right hand, arm
stretched straight toward the
ceilingit should stay skyward
throughout the exercise. Your
left leg is straight and pointing
slightly away from your midline.
Your left arm is on the oor,
about a foot away from your side.
Bend your right knee, crunch
up using your abs, and lean over
into your left forearm. Lead with
your chestdont hunch. Transition the weight from your left
forearm into your left hand. From
here, push off your right heel
and into a bridge with your hips
off the ground. Sweep your left
leg back so that your left knee
is on the oor under your hips.
Keep a neutral spine with a lifted
chest. In one smooth movement,
straighten out the lower left leg
so its in line with your right leg
and stand up on your left knee.
Then perform a split-squat to
stand upright with feet side by
side. Go back down the exact
opposite way you came up.
Straight-arm plank
Stabilize your shoulders and
strengthen your core for better
balance
Same as the forearm plank before, but with arms straight and
wrists directly underneath the
shoulders.
CLIMBING.COM
| 27
the
guide
Guiding
Pro Fuel
28 |
march 2014
Shopping list
A few tried-and-true,
durable snacks to power
your climb.
String cheese
Chocolate bars
andrew bydlon
nutrition
Dried fruit
Honey and banana
tortilla wraps
Energy and granola bars
Caffeinated gel packets
Mini burritos,
pre-cooked
Chocolate-covered
espresso beans
Nuts, like cashews and
almonds
sustained below-freezing
temps, consider what the
food will be like frozen.
On bigger single-day
outings, starting with a
good breakfast and truly
hydrating at the beginning
of the day are crucial. Remember to eat and drink
once you start; often
guests get so into it that
time ies by without eating, and thats when they
fall behind. Tuck snacks
into a pocket where they
are truly handy.
Peter Doucette
Food depends on the
person and the type of
climbing. On long rock
routes, bring something
that can be eaten easily at
the belay, like energy gels
and bars. The bulk of my
food on multi-day mountain routes is normal,
everyday food. Making
sure you get enough calo-
get more
Download our
iPad app for
more nutrition
and training advice at climbing
.com/apps
climbing.co m
| 29
the
guide
Guiding
stats
Professional Guiding:
By the numbers
91 24
1,825
78 97
$23,200
Cost of IFMGA
tuition
# of IFMGA guides
Number of international
guiding associations that
are IFMGA partners
1. Colorado
2. Washington
3. California
Approximate number
of days to become
IFMGA certied
ToP 3 STaTeS:
$50,000
165
AMGA
rock
guides
10
WI4
Alpine Guide
10
5.10+/A2
20/10
Trad routes grade III
or longer you must
have guided; trad routes
rated 5.10+ or harder
you must have guided,
respectively
30 |
march 2014
5.10a/5.6
Level you must lead (crack
and face climbs) in rock
shoes and mountaineering
boots, respectively
5
Alpine routes grade IV or
longer, led or shared lead
10
Alpine trad routes
5.10 or harder, led or
shared lead
Learn more at amga.com
ISSUE 323
Shells
Truth be told, there
are lots of great
waterproof-breathable
jackets out thereits
a buyers market. But
what separates the
adequate from the
stellar, especially for
our nicky set, are
the bells and whistles
designed to t climbers
specic needs. From
top to bottom, we break
down what details you
should look for in a
shell, whether youre
climbing V5 boulders
or grade V routes. Then
ip the page for our
top ve picks that mix
and match these extras
for practical use in the
eldeach weighing in
at less than 14 ounces.
GEAR
CLIMBING.COM
| 33
Gear
Super-Light Shells
5 climber-friendly rain jackets under 14 ounces
By Julie ellison
Shell
Mountain Hardwear
Super Light Plasmic
Precipitation is
the enemy of the
rock climber, and
few things are
as disappointing as watching
your project
get drenched in
a spring squall.
Sport climbers
and boulderers
need an emergency shell for
surprise storms,
while ice and alpine climbers rely
on these jackets
to keep them
dry and warma
dire necessityin
their bad-weather
battleelds. No
matter your
poison, you need
a shell that lives
in your packairy
and compressible
enough that you
dont notice it sitting there, but resilient enough to
keep you dry. Our
testers set out
to nd the best
models on the
market, and after
a soaking-wet six
months throughout the Rockies,
Northeast, and
Northwest, they
emerged with ve
ideal pieces.
34 |
march 2014
Performance
Cons
Conclusion
Flyweight Champ
Bottom Line
FIRST DEFENSE
While a membrane like gore-Tex does the heavy lifting in keeping you dry, many jackets also have a surface
treatment, causing water to bead and roll off the outer fabric. This frontline of water resistance is called durable water repellent (DWR). it consists of
a chemical webbing of miniscule spike-like structures that force the water into rounded, bead-like shapes (instead of at spots or streaks that seep
in easier). A DWR treatment weakens when contaminated by commonly found threats: dirt, body oils, perfume, sunscreen, lotion, and bug spray.
These contaminants leave behind water-attractive molecules that keep the liquid from beading. it is normal for DWR to break down over time, but
you can extend its life. Regularly wash your shell with suitable detergent (mild powder detergent or a specic soap like nikwax Tech Wash) and give
it a spin in the dryer for 10 to 15 minutes, as heat exposure is best at reviving DWR. Then try running a warm iron set on low steam over the jacket a
few times. if this doesnt x it, nd a good spray-on or wash-in DWR; we like nikwax TX.Direct Spray-on ($21.50, nikwax.com). Devon barrow
Arcteryx Alpha SL
With the trimmest t and highest breathability of any jacket in the test, this shell is
ideal for moderate to warm climates when
youre not wearing much underneath and
you need maximum ventilation.
Keep Breathing
Alpine Ready
Quiver of One
climbing.com
| 35
ADVERTISEMENT
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BEN BRUESTLE,
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Number of years youve been climbing: 18
Number of routes youve replaced as
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Here are a handful: Bam Bam, 5.10a, Wild Side;
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TENAYA OASI
High performance usually equates
to an extreme when it comes
to rock shoes: You either get
complete exibility or maximum
stiffness. By breaking that mold,
the Oasi offers a successful balance
of movement and rigidity to be
excellent for steeps and slabs alike.
If the La Sportiva Solution is on
the most rigid end of the stiffness
spectrum and the Five Ten Team
shoe is on the soft end, the Oasi is
right in the middlewith the same
level of performance, if not more
because of its additional uses,
one tester said. A stiff forefoot,
aggressive downturn, and chiseled toe gave testers precision
on micro-nubs, but an incredibly
exible midsole was more like a
rubber sock wrapped around my
foot for maximum torsion. One
tester chose these as her quiver of
one for Yosemite because theyre
aggressive enough for bouldering,
comfortable enough to jam into
cracks all day, and have more than
enough ex to smear on the Valleys plentiful slabs. Plus, the rubber
that extends up and over the
toe increased grip for foot jams.
Testers with feet of every size and
shape praised the Draxtor closure
system, which at rst looks like any
other Velcro strap setup. The key
difference is that each of the two
straps is adjustable in itself, so you
can lengthen them all the way out
for high-volume feet or tighten
them way down for low-volume
feet. A synthetic upper means a
PETZL BOLSA
Although your chosen rope-carrying system shouldnt make or
break your dayyou can survive
just ne without one, after all
over-complicated setups will
annoy you, while a spartan design
might not t all your needs. Enter
the Petzl Bolsa, a rope bag and
tarp that is thoughtfully designed
for sport climbers. The bag,
which has two shoulder straps so
you can carry it like a backpack,
is attached directly to the tarp,
with an opening in the center
of the sheet that allows you to
quickly grab the four corners of
the tarp and slide the rope right
in. It couldnt be simpler, one
user said after hopping between
a dozen climbs in one day at
Shelf Road, Colorado. Just pick
WHEN SELECTING
A TENT
CHOOSE WISELY
Heavenly comfort
Two-in-one rope
Millet OppOsite 9/10
How many ropes does one
climber need? That answer
might depend on the day and
the discipline, but most sport
climbers have one burly fat
rope for toproping and working
projects and one skinny line for
send attempts. Millet has taken
those two cords and married
them to create one long rope
that serves both purposes. The
Opposite 9/10 has 50 meters of 9
millimeters on one end, while the
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Tie into the fatter section for
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Tremendously strong, versatile and
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Angus Hobson
HILLEBERG.COM
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semi-Rad
Climb
Like A
Kid Again
Brendan Leonard
38 |
maRch 2014
Mike Libecki and Freddie Wilkinson shuttle loads of gear afer their rst ascent
on Berthas Tower, an unclimbed tower that rises more than 2,000 feet in Queen
Maud Land, Antarctica. This was Libeckis fh visit to the continent. Berthas
Tower was named afer Libeckis grandmother, Bertha, who encouraged him to
drop out of college over 20 years ago and focus on climbing.
By Mike LiBecki
denial
42 |
march 2014
From the AAJ: i remembered a day in high school when my biology class
tried a small experiment to demonstrate the sense of hearing. We closed our
eyes and, without making a noise, just listened. We heard breathing, cars in
the distance, the air conditioning, maybe a bird singing outside. that first
night at camp on my own, i did the experiment again. silence. For the first
time in my life, i heard no wind, no people, no voices, no cars, no airplanes,
no animalsnothing. in the end, in a great meditation, i could hear only one
thing: my pulse.
climbing.com
| 43
Commitment
from the aaJ: on a good stance, with bomber gear, i gently touched one of
the flakes, and they both went crashing toward the ground. i was expecting
the simple thrill of a wall trundle, but then a chain reaction started and pool
tablesize flakes in a dihedral about 10 feet to the right of me exploded and
roared with fury. Before my adrenaline had a chance to kick in, a truck load of
granite let loose, continuing the thunder and destruction. i tucked into a fetal
position. The Earth shook and screamed like King Kong. it sounded like the
entire wall was crumbling. doomsday.
44 |
march 2014
cory richards
Dodging the Taliban and encountering the worst rock hed ever seen, Libecki
climbed three crumbling limestone towers in the mountains 100 miles west
of Kabul. During his first trip, Libecki experienced his closest call ever when
a huge flake peeled off and damaged all of his ropes, just minutes after he
traversed beneath it. Two attempts on a spire called the Ibex Horn failed
in 2010, so he went back the next year on his way to China and bagged the
peak. After the climb, a band of horsemen rode into his basecamp and said he
should leave immediately because the Taliban were on the move in the next
valley over.
FroM the AAJ: I had come [up with] a rating system, which I reference as
Russian Roulette Rating, to quantify the looseness of the rock. On a 1 to 5
RRR system, the first climb I attempted had to be RRR4, while this second
tower was RRR3. The rock crumbled every few moves. Twenty feet below the
top I thought of turning back, but I moved slowly to the summit, touched it
with my hand (tag, youre it), and downclimbed.
46 |
march 2014
joSh hEllInG
Mike Libeckis expedition approach has been shaped by his more than
20 solo expeditions (out of a total of more than 50). When youre climbing many days from the nearest other person, where rescue may not be
an option, preparation and packing are not just the way to succeed on
expedition goals; they may be matters of life and death. Its just me,
myself, and I out there, so its full self-reliance, he says. Heres some of
Libeckis hard-won wisdom.
Take the time to test your tent, portaledge, cams, stove, and other gear
before every trip. Find out what fuel you can buy at your destination. Pack
the tools needed for upkeep and repair: lube for cams that get doused in
saltwater or mud; a file for crampons and axes; tools to fix or clean your
stove; a repair kit with baling wire, zip ties, duct tape, tent-pole repairs,
and bomber sewing materials. Assume equipment will fail.
You may need to come out a different way than you went in, so pack a range
of maps. Dont depend on just maps or just GPSlearn to use them both.
Antibiotics.
Depending on the area, I may have up to six different antibiotics with me,
but the minimum are Ciprofloxacin and Avelox.
Med kit.
You literally may need to save your own or your partners life, so take
classes, consult a savvy doctor, and pack a full kit: EpiPen, tooth care
(temporary fillings, etc.), serious pain meds, Super Glue, a stitch kit for human fleshthe list goes on and on. And know how to use them!
Water treatment.
Trust me, when its coming out both ends for 48 hours, youll wish you had
filtered or treated your water thoroughly. Same goes for exotic food (Ive
climbing.com
| 47
48 |
march 2014
from the aaJ: With ropes frozen useless, the team was caged under their
storm fly like prisoners. Soon the wall could hold no more snow, and large
avalanches crashed down the massive cliff. The first large avalanche to bombard them ripped their zippered nylon doors down and filled their portaledge
with heavy snow. Hearts beating strongly, they endured more than a dozen
similar events.
this some kind of mid-life crisis? The expedition lifestyle is what I have known for
so longreally all I know, aside from being a father. Its how I dene myself, who
I am. I wondered if I could ever give it up.
When my daughters mother and I split
up eight years ago, we tried to work it out
again and again, until nally we had done
everything we could, exhausted every
angle, and realized it was over. There was
some consolation in the fact that we did
everything we could. And to this day we
are great friends. Maybe it was the same
thing with this third expedition to Franz
Josef Land: I had to try everything I could
before I could actually walk away.
MIke LIbeCkI
had ox penis, raw seal liver, polar bear, possum intestine, various eyeballs)
that you might try in order to be respectful to the locals. Bring hand sanitizer and wash your hands frequently.
Go to your local cliff and have your partner play dead from the rock you just
pulled onto his headwhat do you do? What if you broke your arm or leg?
How would you gather rainwater in a portaledge or escape from a wall in a
storm? Can you improvise a haul, rescue, or rappel if you lose critical gear?
Can you communicate with your partner when hes out of sight or a storm is
too loud? (Consider two-way radios.) When its subzero and the wind is 40
mph and shit goes down, you will be happy you prepped for everything!
Satellite phone.
Entertainment.
Pack plenty of books, music/instrument, pencil/paper, games, etc. Especially when sitting out a storm for 10 days, these will better your chances
for not losing it. Also, bring great food and drink, at least for basecamp.
Sentimental or funny stuff can also lighten a dark mood. I like bringing
my Chinese zodiac masks for summit celebrations. (This is the Year of the
Horse!) I have two necklaces that never leave my neck: one from my mom
and one from my daughter, providing energy and inspiration.
Study the language, history, and current events of the place youre going.
Try to speak the language, even a little. Research what it means to be polite or offensive in different cultures. Bring small gifts that represent you
and your culture well. Get the phone numbers of local emergency contacts.
Remember, without local support and camaraderie, nothing happens.
Stay positive.
Optimism. Patience. Belief. Focus on the now. The most intense and painful moments on expeditions often lead to the most wonderful moments.
Be thankful.
Just go.
These beliefs never let me down: The time is now. What are you waiting
for? Dream big and climb those dreams. Death and/or old age is coming.
Why ration passion?
climbing.com
| 49
50 |
march 2014
keith ladzinski
From the eXplorers journal: everything was ready. the camels were
packed with thousands of pounds of supplies. Just a few last liters of water
needed to be boiled for drinking, and we would be off into the desert. Just as
the last of the water was being boiled, two liters spilled and doused my inner
right foot and ankle. When i pulled off my boot and sock, my foot was little
more than a mass of oozing flesh. a 3 x 8 section of my foot and ankle had
simply melted. Just what i needed before starting my walk across this desert.
the temperature was 117F.
52 |
march 2014
1. worst food
4. Biggest Cost
This much travel dont come cheap. What was Mikes most
expensive expedition?
A.
B.
C.
d.
2. worst injury
A.
B.
C.
d.
Trenchfoot in Russia
Flesh melting off his foot in the Taklamakan Desert
Pulling ticks from his scrotum in Venezuela
Vomiting and defecating blood in kyrgyzstan
mike libecki
5. fArthest Afield
There are 196 countries in the world. Mike has been to 33% of
them and climbed in 25%. Whats been his longest commute?
A.
B.
C.
d.
A.
B.
C.
d.
A
A
A
A
climbing.com
| 53
outside to see if anyone, or anything, is coming. Whenever I opened the lid of my bivy
sack, I peered down to the talus and the
ocean below, and I kept expecting to see a
bear. I couldnt get it out of my mind. Could
a bear climb up the ice to reach me? Back
in my bivy sack. Instantly back to looking
around. In and out of sleep. Iktsuarpok,
again and again. I was soaked from rain
and perspiration; my hands were wrinkled and numb. I was hungry and out of
water, but I didnt want to move until the
sailboat arrived.
I called the captain. No answer. Called
again. He said the weather was very bad,
and he hoped to be able to pick me up
by the next day, but not to worry. Hoped?
Another 24 hours? Bear paranoia had
possessed me, and I didnt want to move.
I imagined a bear pouncing on my bivy
sack and tearing my esh apart as I
screamed in agony. I shrank into my bivy
sack and ate my last Clif bar. Toes numb.
Sleep. Awake. No bears. Wait, what is
that? Just ice. Iktsuarpok. Another call
to the captain. No answer. Again. No answer. Cold, wet, cramping. I kept looking
at my watch. I pictured getting on the
boat, going home, and seeing my daughter. Twenty more hours passed. Waves
crashed on the shoreline. Then Rrrrrt!
Rrrrrt! Two high-pitched blasts from a
After a botched TV-sponsored expedition left his gear stranded in the jungles
of guyana, Libecki returned alone five months later to retrieve the equipment
and climb a new route on a sandstone tepui. he befriended three local men
and, after teaching them to belay and jumar, invited them along for an adventurous multi-pitch first ascent.
FroM the AAJ: some vines were strong enough to hold my weight when i
equalized two or three limbs like an insect. At one point, run out 90 feet, i
was so pumped i had to wrap my right arm around a vine and grab my wrist
with my left hand. Darkness encroached as i continued up near-vertical vines
and treesso many, i did not even touch stone. finally, with headlamps, we
all climbed wet, slippery 5.5 vines to the top, and then sat out the night
under a small rock overhang. My feet throbbed from being wet for several
days. When we got down and i finally took off my climbing shoes, i noticed
something attached to the bottoms of my ankles: foot-shaped clumps of cauliflower, white with a blue hue.
The AAJ (American Alpine Journal) is published annually by the American Alpine
Club: $35, free to AAC members. (Members also get rescue insurance.) Read all of
Mike Libeckis AAJ stories at publications.americanalpineclub.org .
climbing.co m
| 55
Ph o
ion
rros
d co
s an
r y
cho Ache Burr
g an By Jeff Andrew
by
tos
bin
Clim
Free-for-all engineering
58 |
march 2014
Metal-urgency
Its easy to spot a very rusty bolt, but the most dangerous kinds
of corrosion are less obvious. Inexpensive carbon-steel bolts rust
predictablyquickly or slowly depending on the environment
and get weaker and weaker as the steel gradually akes away as
rust. On the other hand, corrosion-resistant hardware such as
stainless steel, doesnt rust as noticeably. But it can be attacked
in other wayssometimes rapidly.
Most anchor hardware is made of steel, which mainly consists of iron, plus a mix of other things. Iron rusts when it reacts
with oxygen. Water speeds up the process, too: Oxygen in dry
air tends to stay in the air, while oxygen plus water plus iron
equals rust.
climbing.co m
| 59
or negative pole of an electric couple. If the potential of two adjacent metals isnt the same, a small current, carried by electrons,
ows between them. Seeking a sort of equilibrium, the metal donating the negatively charged electrons will also begin to lose positively charged metal ions, causing the metal to dissolve.
Galvanic corrosion wont occur in dry conditions or in distilled
water; to complete the circuit you need an electrolyte such as
saltwater. In climbing anchors, any mineralized water trapped between a bolt and its hanger will function as the electrolyte.
Various combinations of mild steel, zinc-plate, aluminum, and
stainless can experience galvanic corrosion. Installing a stainless
hanger on a carbon-steel bolt will compromise the bolt itself, while
a zinc-plated hanger on a stainless bolt will compromise the hanger.
Crevice corrosion is also relevant to climbing anchors. It is
caused by the concentration of corrosive minerals, especially
chlorides. Crevices in or around the metal tend to trap mineralized moisture. If the crevice periodically dries out, it can concentrate dissolved chlorides and create a microenvironment so
From the sea stacks of Scotland (images one, two, and four) to the beaches of the Dominican Republic (image three), saltwater accelerates the rusting of all types of metals,
including aluminum and various kinds of steel.
60 |
march 2014
Crevice corrosion afects all steels, but it is particularly disturbing in stainless steel. A stainless steel bolt/hanger combination
will almost never show surface rust. The bolt may look ne, yet
be badly corroded in critical, invisible areas such as the threads.
Pitting is another special kind of corrosion. This one you often
can see, since it takes place on exposed surfaces such as the face
of a bolt hanger. It is essentially a microscopic version of crevice
corrosion. Stainless steels chromium oxide layer contains minute
aws that can become tiny pits. Once a pit starts, it can create its
own microenvironment with an aggressive chemistry that allows
corrosion to proceed.
Pitting is still an active eld of study among metallurgists, but
it is denitely linked to mineral inclusions. Sulfur, for example,
is often purposely added to stainless steel to make it easier to
machine (SAE 303 is one exampleavoid it!). Sulfur inclusions,
however, when exposed on the surface of the steel, create a break
in the chromium oxide layer where pitting can begin.
One nal kind of corrosion of real consequence to climbers is
stress corrosion cracking. SCC is technically more than just corrosion. Its a double-whammy interaction between chemical corrosion and mechanical stress. In the wrong conditions, SCC can
rapidly destroy stainless steel climbing hardware.
SCC is a devious, hard-to-predict process with a history of making
catastrophic surprise appearances. Beginning in the early 1990s, it
has been responsible for an epidemic of climbing-anchor failures at
tropical crags worldwide.
If a metal is susceptibleand stainless steel isseveral factors
must be present for SCC to occur. One is stress within the metal.
This is universal in climbing anchors. Mechanical bolts are put
under tension when they are tightened. The bolt/hanger metal
retains internal stresses from the cold-working processes of
manufacturingpunching the hole and putting in the bend, for
example.
The last necessary ingredient for SCC is an aggressive environment. Heres where prediction gets complicated, because the
microenvironments within and around a climbing anchor can become aggressive in many subtle ways. SCC was originally associ-
ated with industrial sites such as boilers and desalination plants. High heat, lots of salts. Yet SCC was later
found to occur at much lower temperaturesaround
indoor swimming pools, for example.
SCC is only associated with very high concentrations of chlorides. Unfortunately, both the geology of
certain clifs and the microenvironments within bolt
holes can help create the aggressive conditions needed for SCC to occur. It can make the face of a stainless
steel bolt hanger look like shattered glass.
If you hadnt guessed already, the incident in Thailand relayed at the beginning of this story was a case
of SCC. One of the anchors that broke was a -inch
stainless steel bolt that had been placed only 18
months before.
climbing.com
| 61
So lets say youre an equipper and buy into the concept that rebolting a route every 15 or 20 years doesnt cut it. How can you
know what hardware to use at your area to get a 50-year lifetime?
The UIAA is in the process of rolling out guidelines that will help.
Lets say youve heard that Bolt A is more corrosion-resistant
than Bolt B, says Jarvis. Is it even true? And do you really need
that? Who knows? The UIAA is working to have a classication
system based on the corrosion resistance of an anchor.
The specic tests will be some version of standard tests used in
other industries. Signicantly, only complete anchorsone-piece
glue-ins or complete bolt/hanger combinationswill be tested.
A bolt or a hanger alone will not be eligible for classication. In a
nutshell, heres what the system will look like:
Class 1 anchors will have to endure severe testing conditions
and prove themselves extremely resistant to normal corrosion,
crevice corrosion, pitting, and stress corrosion cracking. Anchors
in this class are what places like Thailand will need. The UIAA
safety commission decided on the specic tests for this class during their meeting in Chamonix in June 2013.
Class 2 means moderate to high corrosion resistance. This is
likely what other coastal areas need, says Jarvis, where there is
some risk of SCC, but not as extreme as in tropical areas. It will
be interesting to see what tests the UIAA comes up with for this
class, and what metals will pass, since, despite its susceptibility to
SCC, 316 stainless is widely used for anchor replacement in such
areas, and there is signicant resistance to upgrading to much
more expensive alternatives such as titanium.
Class 3 anchors will have moderate corrosion resistance. There will be no tests for SCC. Anchors in this
class should be suitable for the bulk of climbing areas
that have no special corrosion concerns, and it will be
the minimum level of corrosion resistance recommended for outdoor climbing. Since this standard is being
generated in Europe, it seems very likely that anchors
in this category will have to show corrosion resistance
equal to 304, and possibly 316 stainless. If so, this requirement is sure to cause some controversy in the U.S.
Class 4 anchors will have no specied corrosion resistance and be aimed at indoor use.
Manufacturers will not give any specic lifespan
warranty after these tests. Rather, it is a tool for consumers. If one matches the right anchor class with a
given climbing environment, says Jarvis, then a 50year (or more) lifetime should be achievable.
The future
climbing.com
| 63
Its
Always
Sunny
In
BEAT THE FOURTH SEASONS FRIGID TEMPS WITH THESE
6 WINTER-FRIENDLY AREAS
BY AMANDA FOX
ANDREW BURR
Spring is so close, yet so far. Youve spent session after session in the gym, getting strong. But youre tired of waiting in
line for the steep wall, wafting in that special gym-shoe aroma. So now what? Head outside! Thats rightyou can enjoy
sunshine and mild temps, even in the grips of the fourth season. Here are our favorite crags with near-guaranteed T-shirt
weather, sunny days, and fun winter rock climbing.
beta
S e aSon: Climbing can be had year-round, but stick to the north-facing
Chattanooga, Tennessee
Follow th e b ir ds south to a lan d
oF roc ks
Chattanoogas got it all: mild weather (average high in the mid-60s
in March), a happening downtown, and a lifetime of rock climbing.
High-quality sandstone is great for everything from traditional crack
climbs at Tennessee Wall, to overhanging jug hauls at Foster Falls, to
the myriad boulders at Stone Fort. Why go anywhere else?
Tennessee Wall faces south to bask in the sun all day (dont venture
there in the summer). Mostly single-pitch crack climbs line the crag.
Requisite moderates include the blocky roofs of Art (5.8) and the hand
crack on Golden Locks (5.8+). If youre well-versed in hand and nger
cracks, Cake Walk (5.10a) lives up to its namesake. Fly with the Falcon
(5.11b) has everything in a mere 80 feet: a bouldery start, a roof, and a
crack that requires some powerful moves.
Foster Falls is a popular sport arena, with a wide range of climbs.
Hop on the neighboring routes Ankles Away and Twist and Shout
(both 5.9+) to warm up for the varied Somethings Always Wrong
(5.10d). The sustained Wristlets (5.11c/d) will test your crimping
and lockoff skills. The Lef and Right bunkers contain steep, powerful routes like Ethnic Cleansing (5.12a) and Darkie the Bum Beast
(5.12d).
Pack your bouldering pad and head a bit north of the city to Stone
Fort (aka Little Rock City), located on a golf course. Enjoy everything
from palm-slapping slopers to razor-sharp edges. The boulders are all
within easy walking distance of each other and the golf clubhouse,
whose employees are friendly and accommodating to climbers. (Sign
the waiver and pay the $3/day fee there.) Warm up at the Mystery
Machine boulder, and then wander throughout the bouldereld to classics like Clarence Bowater Survival (V3), Dragon Lady (V4), Celestial
Mechanics (V7), and Robbing the Tooth Fairy (V9). Stone Fort is also
home to a leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series (triplecrownbouldering.org), which has another stop at Horse Pens 40 in Alabama, an
hour, 45 minutes south.
beta
S eaSo n : Climbing is possible year-round, but the heat and humidity
is sweltering in the summer. Chase the sun on moderate days in the
winter for perfect temps. Stay t h er e: Check out The Crash Pad, a
climber- and traveler-friendly hostel ($28 to $95/night) with free
WiFi, breakfast, and coffee (crashpadchattanooga.com). Gu i d ebo ok :
Chris Watfords Dixie Craggers Atlas covers the entire area. Grab
Volume 1 for Tennessee Wall and Volume 2 for Foster Falls. Get both
for $45 at dixiecragger.com. Stone Fort Bouldering, by Andy Wellman,
is available at greenergrasspublishing.com for $26.
kAMIL SUSTIAk
of the Great White Throne is a solid bet. For a wider adventure, grab your
No. 4 and 5 cams and jump on Grasshopper (5.9), or work up the lef-facing
corner of Birthday Corner (5.11).
beta
S eaSo n : September through April offer the best climbing conditions, though
winters can be frigid in the shade. The guidebook recommends climbing
where the high is at least 50F in the sun on big walls, and 40F on shorter
routes. Its scorching in the summer. Some areas, like Mt. Kinesava, are closed
from March to September for peregrine falcon nesting. Check nps.gov/zion
for closures. Get t h er e: From the north, travel south on I-15 and take exit 27.
Go west on UT-17 for about six miles, and then turn lef onto UT-9 for about
21 miles. Follow the signs to the park. A seven-day pass is $25. Stay t h e re:
Stay in either the South or Watchman campgrounds inside the canyon; $16
to $18/night. Watchman takes reservations from late March through October
(877-444-6777); South is rst-come, rst-served. Gu i d ebo o k: Zion Climbing: Free and Clean, by Bryan Bird ($30, supertopo.com)
climbing.com
| 67
68 | March 2014
MERRICk ALES
beta
S eaSo n : Way too hot in the summer. It does get
If youre itching for boulders, youre in luck. Queen Creek was once
the site of the huge Phoenix Bouldering Competition, with hundreds of
problems to play on at Oak Flats. The sharp and unforgiving rock can be
hell on your ngers, so bring plenty of tape and skin balm. Start on the
short lines at the Warm-up Boulders before moving to the Tetons, with
incut edges on challenging lines. Or keep walking to Waterfall Canyon for
big pockets on bulgy faces. The impressive Shark Wall offers huge huecos
on overhanging faces, and if youve got skin to waste, nish up at the
Bermuda Triangle.
beta
S eaSo n : Year-round, but very hot in the summer. February and March offer
warm weather in the mid-60s and 70s but occasional rain. Get t h er e: About
an hour from Phoenix just outside Superior, Arizona. Travel east on Highway
60 from Superior up a hill and through a tunnel. Two miles past the tunnel
is Magma Mine Road, which leads to the Oak Flats Campground and a few
climbing areas. Stay t h er e: Oak Flats Campground is free and rst-come,
rst-served with vault toilets, but no water or trash service. Gu i d ebo o k: Beg,
borrow, or steal a copy of the Rock Jocks Guide to Queen Creek Canyon,
Superior, Arizona, by Marty Karabin, which is no longer in print. Mountainproject.com has great info as well.
JACK DAvIS
climbing.com
| 69
70 | March 2014
Just southeast of Mt. Woodson are the scenic Poway Crags, with short
and steep granite routes on Iron Mountain that are mostly bolted; they might
require extra pro, so bring a small rack. Visit here when the weather is cool, as
the cliffs are south- and east-facing and receive sun much of the day. There
are very few warm-ups here; the powerful nature of the routes beckons to
those comfortable leading 5.10 and up. Head to the Sport Wall for a dense
concentration of 5.10 and 5.11 lines, like Suspended Evolution (5.10d). For
longer routes, visit the Godzilla Buttress and hop on its best route Godzilla
(5.10b). Dont forget your helmet; there is loose rock.
beta
S eaSo n : Some crags, like Ramona Wall at Poway, have raptor closures
from December to August. Check mountainproject.com for updates.
Stay t h er e: Dos Picos County Park is close to both Mt. Woodson and the
Poway Crags in Ramona. Tent sites are $24/night, and amenities include
showers, horseshoe rings, and picnic tables. Gu i d ebo o k: A few out-ofprint guides exist online, or nd topo maps at climbingtoposofsandiego
.com; mountainproject.com has the most updated info.
KAARE IVERSOn
Looking for fun climbing in California that doesnt involve the crowds of
Bishop and Joshua Tree? Somewhat ironically, youll nd what youre afer
just outside of San Diego, where a plethora of granite bouldering, sport, and
trad areas await. The climate doesnt vary much throughout the year, with
temps remaining comfortably in the 60s and 70s even in the winter months.
For varied and high-quality bouldering and toproping, try Mt. Woodson,
located about 30 minutes northeast of the city. Hundreds of ne-grained
granite boulders lay scattered in the green hills. The smooth, round rocks
lend themselves to steep face climbing and cracks. An uphill hike on an
easy trail (anywhere from 10 to 45 minutes to the summit) gets you to the
climbs, but the views of the Pacic, the city, and Mexico are well worth the
effort. Plus, boulder problems can be found all along the path, even up to
the top. Some of the taller boulders can be set up as lead climbs; bring a
light trad rack. Dont miss the huge, triangular Uncertainty Principle boulder, seen from the road, with its popular namesake route going at 5.11c. The
Poison Oak area has many problems and routes ranging from V1 to 5.13a.
And 5.11 climbers will love the accessible Cave area, where the best routes
include Bat Flake (5.10d), Starface (5.11a/b), and The Cave (5.11a).
CLINICS
75
IN SESSION
TRAINING
BEGIN HERE
IN SESSION
RELAXING BREATH
By Dave Sheldon
UTILIZE THIS
BREATHING TECHNIQUE
TO IMPROVE ON-ROUTE
PERFORMANCE
Its strangely easy to forget
about something you do 20,000
times a day, but taking a minute
to focus on maximizing your
oxygen intake while climbing
can ofer a considerable performance boost. Coach and worldrenowned climber Justen Sjong
has developed a breathing style
that supports a relaxed body
and mind, even when youre
climbing at your physical limit.
Keeping your breath soft and
natural (not labored or forceful)
positively afects your movement
and stress level, helping you to
climb efciently and thoughtfully, and leaving you more energy
and strength for cruxes. If your
body is getting more oxygen, you
will maintain mental clarity to
read the rock and move over it in
the most efective way possible,
plus it maximizes resting, Sjong
says. Practice the following
methods as much as you can so
they become second nature on
the rock, and you will nd your
performance across all climbing
disciplines improves.
SKIP STERLING
START
HERE
Scout out a quiet place at the
crag. Stand with your hands by
your sides, loosen the muscles
in your face, slightly purse your
lips, and slowly inhale through
your mouth. Hold the inhale for
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 6
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
JUSTEN SJONG
Justen Sjong coaches in
Boulder, Colorado, and offers
nationwide clinics with his
training company Team of 2
(teamof2climbing.com). Hes
freed lines on El Capitan like
Magic Mushroom (5.14a) and
preMuir (5.13d).
CLIMBI NG.COM
| 75
GUIDES TIP
CLINICS
AUTO-BLOCKING MUNTER
By Lindsay Mann
ASK A GUIDE
What are some tips for a person who is rappelling for the
rst time?
Devin
Check screw-gate
biners periodically
to make sure theyre
locked, as the rope can
sometimes unlock
them.
The Setup
76 |
MARCH 2014
Brake strand
Climbers rope
strand of the rope. If set up correctly, the hitch will lock on itself.
Then pull on the brake strand to
make sure the rope runs through
smoothly. You can also use this
system for belaying two followers:
Put each followers rope on its
own biner on the master point,
and then use two more biners to
set up auto-block mode.
The Drawback
Just like with any auto-blocking
tube-style device, giving slack to
LINDSAY MANN
As a guide for RMI and Pacic
Alpine Guides, Lindsay Mann
leads mountaineering trips on
Mt. Rainier, Denali, and throughout the North Cascades. She also
teaches avalanche courses and
works as a backcountry ski guide.
SAFER LOWERING
76
77
By Mike Poborsky
Noisy
Environment
Problems that stem from the
specific circumstances include
the climber and belayer being unable to see each other
because of the routes path
and/or the distance between
the two; weather conditions
like wind, snow, or rain; and
extraneous noises, such as a
river, traffic, or other climbers
shouting commands or chatting nearby.
At noisy or crowded
climbing areas, climbers
sometimes mistake a command from a nearby party as
coming from their partner.
Clear
Commands
MIKE POBORSKY
Mike Poborsky, an internationally certied rock, alpine, and
ski guide, is vice president of
Exum Mountain Guides. His
complete Know the Ropes
chapter on lowering is available
in the 2013 edition of Accidents
in North American Mountaineering, or it can be viewed online
at publications.americanalpineclub.org.
Explicit
Intentions
Before starting up any singlepitch climb, its critical that
belayer and climber both
understand what the other
person will do when the climber reaches the anchor: Will
the climber lower off, and if
so, what language will she use
to communicate with the belayer? Or will she clip directly
to the anchor, go completely
off belay, and rappel down the
route? Many accidents have
resulted when the belayer assumed the climber was going
to rappel instead of lower,
the belayer forgot that the
climber planned to lower, or
he misunderstood a command
(like off or safe or Im in
direct) as an intention to rappel. Before taking the climber
off belay, the belayer must
CLIMBING.COM
| 77
TRAINING
CLINICS
TRAIN THE RIGHT WAY FOR LONG CLIMBS WITH HEAVY PACKS
You might train your upper body endlessly for the demands of technical climbing, but getting to intense backcountry objectives
demands a base strength in your lower body as well. Legs are the main propulsion you have in the mountains, and their large muscle mass
requires special attention. Weve developed a solid, structured training program that will help you build the necessary strength and endurance to achieve your goals, keeping you healthy and energized when you set of from high camp. This base training period includes two specic exercises that will improve your fatigue resistance, so you can handle more intense climbseven after youve hiked several hours with a
weighty pack. Do hill sprints rst because they allow you to build maximum leg strength and power before getting into weighted hill climbs,
which simulate the endurance needed for ascending moderate to steep alpine terrain.
Week
Sets
Reps
Duration
1-2
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
3-4
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
5-6
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
7-8
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
9-10
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
11-12
8 sec.
2 min.
5 min.
IF YOU DONT
HAVE A HILL
78 | MARCH 2014
STEVE HOUSE
An IFMGA-certied mountain guide, House has completed many
notable climbs throughout the Alaska Range, the Karakorum in
Pakistan, and the Canadian Rockies. He runs Alpine Mentors (alpinementors.org), a nonprot that promotes alpinism by coaching
and encouraging young up-and-coming alpinists.
HILL SPRINTS
This program is an excerpt from the book Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual
for the Climber as Athlete by Steve House and Scott Johnston (below), which is
available now (patagonia.com/books). It also includes more comprehensive training
programs, customizable plans, and the mental strategies used by seasoned alpinists.
78
79
Week
1-2
1,500/457
10
3-4
2,000/610
15
5-6
2,500/762
20
7-8
3,000/914
20
9-10
3,500/1,067
25
11-12
4,000/1,219
25
AN EXCERPT
FROM...
SKIP STERLING
VERTICALLY
IMPAIRED?
So, youre in North Dakota
and the highest thing within
150 miles is a hay barn. It can
be very effective to do this
type of weighted workout using only a 12-inch box to step
up and down. The boredom
factor may become extreme,
so you may want to arrange a
source of entertainment, but
its easy to control the intensity and overall quantity of the
training.
SCOTT JOHNSTON
Growing up in Boulder, Colorado, Johnston was immediately
recognized for his impressive cardiovascular endurance, which
he utilized when competing in World Cups for Nordic ski racing.
Johnston currently lives in Mazama, Washington, where he
continues to ski and climb.
Available at patagonia.com/
books
Climbing (USPS No. 0919-220, ISSN No. 0045-7159) is published ten times a year (February, March, April (Gear), May, July (Photo Annual), August, September, October, November, December/January) by SkramMedia LLC, 2520 55th St., Suite 210, Boulder, CO 80301. Periodicals postage paid at Boulder, CO, and additional mailing ofces. Canada Post publications agreement
No. 40008153. Subscription rates are $29.97 for one year of postal delivery in the United States. Add $20 per year for Canada and $40 per year for surface postage to other foreign
countries. Canadian undeliverable mail to Pitney Bowes IMEX PO Box 54, Station A, Windsor ON N9A 6J5. Postmaster: Please send all UAA to CFS. Retailers: Please send correspondence to
Climbing c/o Retail Vision 815 Ogden Avenue, Lisle, IL 60532-1337. Climbing magazine is a division of SkramMedia LLC. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Climbing, PO Box 420235,
Palm Coast FL 32142-0235.
CLIMBING.COM
| 79
CLINICS
.
80
IN SESSION
TRAINING
BEGIN HERE
BEGIN HERE
OPPOSITE
The gate of one is matched
with the spine of the other;
the top is matched with the
bottom and vice versa. This
is not foolproof because
if one biner rotates 180
degrees on the rope (which
is common), both gates are
aligned and could open
together, making it possible
for the rope to slip out.
OPPOSED
Spines are together, gates are
together, and the top of one
biner is matched with the bottom of the other. When open,
the gates form an X, making
it difcult for the rope to slip
out, but the concern here is
biner strength. Biners lose
about 60 to 70 percent of their
strength (think 9 kN instead of
24 kN) when the gate is open,
and in this orientation, the
same force (impact on rock)
could open both gates, which
would mean theyre weakened
at the same moment.
ANOTHER
QUICK FIX
Sometimes bailing of a long route involves leaving
lots of gear behind, or there are established slings
and webbing, but no rappel rings. Or maybe theres
only one aluminum rap ring, and you would prefer
to have a backup. (Aluminum rappel rings should
always be used in pairs, while one steel ring will do
the trick. Aluminum rap rings are thinner and feel
very light, while a steel ring is thicker and heavier.)
Instead of leaving an expensive locker or two nonlockers, put a few wraps of climbing tape around
the gate and nose of the non-locking biner, so that
it acts like the sleeve of a locking carabiner. By no
means does this replace a locking biner, but if youre
faced with having minimal gear to get down and
want to add some safety to rappelling of one nonlocking biner, this will do the trick.
INDEX
Top
OPPOSITE AND
OPPOSED
Nose
Spine
Gate
SUPERCORN (3)
Bottom
80 |
MARCH 2014
LASER SPEED
Starts quick. Fast through the turns.
www.petzl.com/LASER