Patterns and Tutorials for sweet kids clothing

Aislinn
1101
PICTURES

Description:

Sizing Guidelines:
Standard US Sizing guidelines for basic reference (in inches).
Age
1
2
3
4
5
6
Chest
20
21
22
23
24
25
Waist
19
20
20 21
21
22
Height
31
34
37
40
43
46
Approx
17
18
19
20
22
24
dress
length
Supplies: Sewing Machine, Serger (optional), Cotton Fabric as outlined in the table, iron (with Steam
feature), scissors, pins, thread, elastic thread, ruler, rotary cutter and mat (optional), fabric marker or
chalk.
Skill Level: knowledge of how to work your sewing machine/serger, straight and curved seams,
ruffling, and rolled hem (or serged edge), measuring and cutting the pattern pieces.

Estimated Fabric Yardage for this pattern using 42-44 width fabric:

Cut the following pattern pieces, measured in Inches:

Dress
Shoulder
Straps
Lower
Ruffle
Tie

1
Cut 1
31x14
Cut 2
10x4
Cut 2
30x4
Cut 2
32x4

2
Cut 1
32 x15
Cut 2
10x4
Cut 2
31x4
Cut 2
32x4

3
Cut 1
34x16
Cut 2
11x4
Cut 2
32x4
Cut 2
33x4

4
Cut 1
35 x 17
Cut 2
11x4
Cut 2
32x4
Cut 2
33x4

5
Cut 1
37 x 18
Cut 2
12x4
Cut 2
33x4
Cut 2
34x4

6
Cut 1
38 x 19
Cut 2
12x4
Cut 2
33x4
Cut 2
34x4

Fabric Cuts
Instructions:
*Seam Allowance is unless otherwise specified.
1. Line up short edges of the dress section with fabric right sides together and sew the back seam.
Serge or zig-zag stitch to finish the edges of the seam. Mark the center front of the dress
opposite the back seam, open the dress and match up the center front and back and mark the
sides of the dress at the top and bottom (we use a long chalk mark that extends past the seam
allowance at the top and bottom)
2. Turn right side out and serge along the top of the dress bodice. If you are not using a serger,
fold the fabric over and press, then fold over another to conceal the raw edge and sew
along the hem (rolled hem). Be sure to relocate your side seam markings if you use the rolled
hem.

Serged Edge

Rolled Hem

3. Prepare the shoulder straps by folding the strip lengthwise (long edges) wrong sides together.
Open and lay strap flat right side down. Fold in one side to meet center crease and do the same
for the other side. Fold the strap in half on the original pressed seam to enclose raw edges.
Finally Top stitch around the entire strap and finish raw edges (serge or zig zag).

Fold in each side

Encase edges

Top Stitch

4. Prepare the lower ruffle by laying each of the pieces right side together, and sew the seam along
each short edge to create a circle of fabric. Fold and press the fabric in half wrong sides
together to create a 2 ruffle. Starting at one seam line along the raw edge, use a basting stitch
to sew a continuous line around the ruffle 1/4 from the edge. Do not backstitch or overlap
your stitches and use the longest stitch available on your machine leaving long threads at the
beginning and end of the circle to pull up the ruffle.

Sew along edges to create circle

Fold in half

5. Pin the ruffle to the lower edge of the dress with right sides together, line up the side seams
with the side markings that you made in Step 1 and pin. Pull up the bobbin thread on the ruffle
and distribute gathers evenly. Sew to the dress ruffle side up to prevent unwanted tucks.

Pull up threads to create ruffle

Sew ruffle onto dress

6. Finish the raw edge of the ruffle and dress with Serger or zig zag stitch. Fold the ruffle down
and press with seam up. Topstitch along the edge catching the seam in the upright position.

Fold up ruffle seam and press

Top Stitch ruffle

7. Prepare tie by stitching together short edges right side together to create one long tie piece.
Fold in half lengthwise right sides together and sew along the raw edges starting at the short
edge at the crease. Sew along the short edge with a seam, at the corner with needle down,
lift presser foot and pivot fabric, lower presser foot and continue along the long edge of the tie.
8. Leave an opening near the center seam of the tie about 2 long. To do this, stop your stitch 1
from the center seam, lift needle and presser foot, pull threads for slack (do not cut), replace
fabric 1 from the other side of the seam, lower presser foot and Repeat the pivot at the other
short edge.

Leave an opening for turning by stopping your stitches, and restarting them 2 away.
9. Trim corners and turn tie to the right side by pulling through the opening. Press the tie, fold in
the seam allowance at the opening and top stitch to close (you can continue to topstitch all
around the tie if you want.

Fold in seam allowance and top stitch at opening.

10. Prepare dress for shirring. Mark a straight line around the bodice measuring from the top of
the bodice at the following measurements:
1
2t
3t
4t
5
6
3
3
4
4
4
4

Mark a line around the bodice

11. To prepare for shirring, wind the elastic thread onto a bobbin (usually by hand, do not stretch)
and place into bobbin compartment. Load regular thread on the top spool and thread your
needle. Adjust your machine settings so that the top tension is high (I use the highest setting
but you may need to may some test stitches to get the right tension.) Using a long stitch (I use
#4, basting stitch). Make test stitches on scrap fabric and make adjustments as necessary.

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin by hand, use regular thread on top.
12. Begin first row approximately 1/2 from the top seam. With your sewing machine needle
centered, line up the edge of your presser foot with the edge:

13. Begin second top row with presser foot lined up along the edge of the first row. Stretch the
fabric slightly as you go so you dont have any tucks or puckers. Continue with the shirring
around the bodice chalk line you marked in Step 10. The more rows you add, the more shirring
you will have. Our Sample has two rows at the top and three around the bodice.

Make second row by lining up

Presser foot against first row
Of shirring stitches.

Begin bodice shirring along chalk line.

Continue second row of bodice shirring by lining up the presser foot on the first row, repeat for third
row.
14. The final step in shirring will give you the most results, make sure your steam iron is hot and
full of water! Replace the elastic bobbin with regular thread, to sew the shoulder straps.
Prepare your shoulder straps placement by laying dress flat and starting at the center back
seam, center and pin the straps at the halfway point between the center back seam and side.
Repeat for the other strap, then turn over and match up the straps and pin to the front. Adjust
the strap length as necessary, as a general rule follow these measurements, but be sure to leave
a little extra just in case it needs to be adjusted later (Length of strap in inches Size: 1: 7, Size
2: 7 , Size 3: 8, Size 4: 8 , Size 5: 9, Size 6: 9). Sew the strap just under the serged
edge of the dress bodice (or at the rolled hem stitch).

Pin straps centered on the bodice.

Sew strap just under the serged (rolled) edge.

15. Now that your iron is nice and hot, set it on the highest steam setting and turn the dress inside
out. Place the iron about 1 above the shirred stitches and hit it with lots of steam. This will
make the elastic shrink and give you the desired shirring. Rotate the garment and repeat.

Turn dress wrong side out to iron the elastic stitches on the inside.

Hold the iron 1 above the stitches and use lots of steam.

Turn right side out and marvel at the finished shirring!

16. Finally, you can attach your tie to the bodice so it doesnt slip. Simply line up the back seams
and pin, stitch along the ditch of the seam. Dont forget to back stitch a few stitches at the top
and bottom.

Pin and attach tie to the center back seam.

Congratulations! You have a Freckles on Top original!

2011 Freckles on Top

San Diego, CA
All Rights Reserved. This pattern is for personal home use only and may not be sold, reproduced, transferred or copied by any means without written
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