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Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion Technology


New Delhi

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION


ARUSHI SRIVASTAVA
VAISHALI RAI

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Certificate of Authenticity

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V, National
Institute Of Fashion Technology, New Delhi did their internships at
Arvind

Limited

Denim

Division,

Naroda,

Ahemdabad

from

May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of the program
B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).

This project report has been created and compiled by them under the guidance of
Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Ms. Girija Jha


Mentor

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Acknowledgement

At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has


assisted in the formulation of this report. There are many to whom
expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who
have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached
the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.
We are grateful to Dr. Senthil Kumar for guiding us throughout the internship.
We would like to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor Ms. Girija Jha and
Mr. N.A. Khan, who has always added to our buoyancy with her tremendous
efforts and for her constant support.
At Arvind Limited, we would like to thank the HR manager, Ms. Richa Ahuja; our
industry mentor, Mr. Diwaker Tiwari, Chief Manager- Manufacturing and Mr.
Mahesh Ramakrishnan, head of the Agribusiness Department. Also, we would like
to express a special gratitude to the company for being excellent hosts.
We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents
for their consistent faith and support.

Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai

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Contents

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

1. About the Company


1.1.Introduction

07

1.2.Journey

09

1.3.Companys Vision

11

1.4.Divions
1.4.1. Denim

12

1.4.2. Woven Fabrics

13

1.4.3. Knits

16

1.4.4. Garment Export

17

1.4.5. Advanced Materials

18

1.4.6. Arvind Brands

19

1.4.7. Mega Mart Reta

20

1.4.8. The Arvind Store

21

1.5.Executive Leaders

22

1.6.Board of Directors

24

1.7.Denim Division

28

1.8.International buyers

30

1.9.Own Brands

31

2. Production Process
2.1.Process Flow Chart

32

2.2.Spinning
2.2.1. Process Flow

33

2.2.2. Blow Room

34

2.2.3. Carding

38

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2.2.4. Drawing

40

2.2.5. Spinning

42

2.3.Warp Dyeing
2.3.1. Introduction

46

2.3.2. Rope Dyeing

48

2.3.3. Slasher dyeing

54

2.4.Weaving

59

2.5.Finishing & Processing


2.5.1. Introduction

61

2.5.2. Wet Finishing

62

3. Denim Incubation Department


3.1.Design Team

66

3.2.Design Line

69

3.3.Innovation Pipeline Denims

70

3.4.Technical Team

71

4. Quality Assurance & Standardization


4.1.Introduction

74

4.2.Process Defects

76

4.3.Testing
4.3.1. Physical

79

4.3.2. Chemical

80

4.3.3. Shade

82

4.4.Packaging & Shipping

83

4.5.Accreditations

84

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5. Project Report5.1.Better Cotton Initiative

87

5.1.1. Introduction

89

5.1.2. Features

90

5.1.3. The Better Cotton System

91

5.1.4. Production Principles

92

5.1.5. Criteria For Assessment

92

5.1.6. Audit Information

93

5.1.7. Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain

93

5.1.8. Support

94

5.1.9. Costs

94

5.1.10.

Countries & Regions

96

5.1.11.

Overview of Requirements

98

5.2.BCI at Arvind Limited


5.2.1. Introduction

101

5.2.2. Farm Projects

102

5.2.3. Contract Farming

103

5.2.4. Benefits
5.2.4.1. Economical Benefits

105

5.2.4.2. Environmental Benefits

106

5.2.4.3. Social Benefits

106

5.2.5. Quality Assessment

107

5.2.6. Results & Analysis

108

5.2.7. Conclusion

109

6. References

110
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About the Company

Introduction

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the


year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind
invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552
doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days
to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged
facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year
1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82
lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place
amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the
power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large
composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that
period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better
time, concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind
management coined a new word for it new strategy Reno vision. It simply
meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that
became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets
shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality
goods. An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener.
People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons
were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to
popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches.

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Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for
leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By
1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third
largest producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility,


the largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a
most modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability
was also established.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber
agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile
trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the
rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry
was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current


operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop
shop service, by offering garment packages to its international and domestic
customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic
brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, Arvind set its vision
of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.

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About the Company

Journey

1931
The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers - Kasturbhai,
Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai

1934
Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

1980
Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno vision,
points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-quality
premium niche market.

1987-88
Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure
and Denim for fashion wear.

1991
Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

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1997
Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at
Santej.
2005
Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment
packages to reputed national and international customers.

2007
Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing
MegaMart One of Indias largest value retail chains.

2010
Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the companys best fabrics,
brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof. Arvind
launches its first major Real Estate projects. Arvind becomes one of Indias largest
producers of fire protection fabrics.

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About the Company

Companys Vision

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum


of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing
lifestyles of people, across all diversities and
demographics.

OUR PHILOSOPHY
WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in
focus on problem solving; in teams for effective
performance, in the power of the intellect.

WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher
responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for
the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and
activate all intellectual business contributions.

WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and
prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.

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We

will enable
people to
experience a
better quality of
life by providing
enriching and
inspiring lifestyle
solutions.

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About the Company

Divisions

Denim
The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with
an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading
producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been
Arvinds core competency and have played a key role in Arvinds success. The use
of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned
designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets.
All Arvinds products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design
inputs coming from Arvinds designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the
United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:

Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge

Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen

Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes

Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim

Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvinds labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) and customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
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Woven Fabrics

Shirting & Bottom weights

Arvinds expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled.
Arvinds shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and
international markets. Arvinds state of the art facility is capable of producing a
total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This
capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next
financial year.

We have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product


innovation and fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. We
also boast of the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

Arvinds spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like
compacts, slubs, signed yarn etc. Arvinds weaving capabilities include high-speed
Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Arvinds finishing capabilities include continuous
bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for various
chemical and mechanical finishes.

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A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with


vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also
in place.

In addition to cotton we now work with a variety of fibers incuding Modal,

Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon.

We are host to Indias first Ammonia Mercerization Plant

We use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior

hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle firbers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose

Over the years, Arvinds inhouse R&D department has sucessfully developed

and perfected a number of finishes adding value to Arvinds products and


uniqueness to Arvinds range.
Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron,
Stain Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.
Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

Arvinds product range is certified by Oekotex, Arvinds processes are certified by


GOTS for producing Organic products, we're certified producers of Lycra and
Teflon based varieties, while Arvinds laboratory is accredited by Marks and
Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.

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Voiles

Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in
India. An uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still
continues to manufacture the traditional fabric for both domestic and
international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends from the olden days into a
golden future with a production capacity of 36 million meters per annum. Arvinds
voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market
through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail
outlets throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri
Lanka and countries in the Middle East.

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Knits

Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing
capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and
open-width fabrics and offers specialty fin+ishes like mercerization, singeing and
various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock
Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer Eddie Bauer Zara Josepha Banks

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Garment Exports

A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our


range of fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of
customers enriching lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves
as a one-stop shop for apparel solutions catering to an array of national and
international clients.

Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum

Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum

Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum

Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:


Automated Placement Printing Machinery
Indias largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet
proesses
Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry
processes
Skilled artisans for hand processes

Gap Inc Patagonia Tommy Hilfiger Quicksilver Brooks Brothers Silver


Jeans Calvin Klein FCUK Pull & Bear Jack & Jones Energie Esprit
S.Oliver Mexx Sisley Benetton Coin

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Advanced Materials

We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering


high-tech textile solutions for critical and composite applications.
Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the
Advanced Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have
brought a new level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of
branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial
sectors like Personal Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto
Components, Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure.
Products in the Pro1 range include:
Fire Protection Fabrics
Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics
Proban
Pyrovatex

Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics


Nomex
Protex (Modacrylic)
High Tech Applications
Filtration Fabrics
Anti-Ballistic Fabrics
Nylon Fabrics
Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics
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Arvind Brands

Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that


are as distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work
across multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of
the Arvind brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273
standalone brand stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts
and multibrand outlets across India.
Own Brands

Licensened Brands

Joint Venture Brands

Mainstream

Bridge to Luxury

Bridge to Luxury

Excalibur Gant

U.S.A. 1949

Tommy Hilfiger

Flying Machine

Energie

Popular

Premium

Premium

Ruf & Tuf

USPA

Lee

New Port University

Arrow

Wrangler

Izod

Popular
Cherokee
Mossimo

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Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The MegaMart format
offers a unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega
brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end
department store.

The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger
stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore,
Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are
205 in number. Megamart is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr
chain within the next two years.

The brands sold exclusively in Megamart include:

RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE

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The Arvind Store

After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has
now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail.
The Arvind Store bring together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer.
It is a convergence of three of Arvinds strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics
from Arvinds textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and
bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios.
In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store
will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.

Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim
Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized
washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world
Arvind Studio A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the
world

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About the Company

Corporate
Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics
Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

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Executive Leaders

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Brands & Retail


J.Suresh
Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy
Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge Academy

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About the Company

Board of Directors

MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI


(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)
Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the
Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business
Management and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years.
He also holds directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited, Arvind Retail
Limited, Arvind Brands & Retail Limited, Amol Decalite Limited, Torrent
Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind Worldwide Inc., USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc.,
Arvind Overseas (M) Ltd. Arvind Spinning Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind Textile Mills
Limited, Bangladesh.

MR. JAYESH SHAH


(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)
Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime Director with the designation of
Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate
and a Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.
He has a distinguished academic career and extensive administrative, financial,
regulatory and managerial expertise. He also holds directorships in many other
companies.

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MR. PUNIT LALBHAI


(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in
Strategy and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters
of Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science
(Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA. He has several awards
and honors during his career including Research Grants, Presidential Fellowship
Grant, J.M. Long-Endowed Scholarship and inclusion in Deans Lists for consistent
Academic Excellence.

MR. KULIN LALBHAI


(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along
with a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford
University, USA. He has held several leadership positions during his academic role
including serving as Co-President of Family Business Club at Harvard, Associate
Director for Stanford Asia Technology Initiative and also serving as Conference CoChair for the Harvard-India Conference.

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OTHER DIRECTORS

Mr. Sudhir Mehta


(Non-executive and Independent Director)
Mr. Sudhir Mehta is a Science Graduate from Gujarat University. He was
instrumental in the growth and progress of Torrent Pharmaceuticals Ltd., the
flagship Company of the Torrent Group. He systematically expanded the power
business of Torrent Group by acquiring significant stakes in the Torrent Power
AEC Ltd. and Torrent Power SEC Ltd. and Torrent Power Generation Limited, now
merged with Torrent Power Limited and one among the few successful
independent power projects in India.

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia


(Non-executive and Independent Director)
Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia is a Gold Medalist from Baroda University and he has a
Doctorate in Economics. He has 41 years of professional experience including 33
years at IIM, Ahmedabad. He has been a consultant to various national and
international organizations. He was awarded many awards including Padma Shri
by the Government of India in recognition of his distinguished services in the field
of education in 2007, Bharat Asmita National Award for his contribution to
management education and teaching by the Honbe Chief Justice of India in 2008
etc.

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Mr. Munesh Khanna


(Non-executive and Independent Director)
Mr. Munesh Khanna, 50 years, is a Chartered Accountant from ICAI. He has been
with the Company since 27th October, 2007. He has over 20 years of experience
in the financial, regulatory and taxation domain. He has an extensive network of
relationships with Indian Corporates.

Ms. Renuka Ramnath


(Non-executive and Independent Director)
Ms. Renuka Ramnath is the Founder and Managing Director of Multiples
Alternate Asset Management Pvt. Ltd. which seeks to manage circa $450 million
of Indian and International capital.

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal


(Nominee Director of EXIM Bank of India)
Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal is the Executive Director of EXIM Bank of India having
qualifications of M.Com, LL.B, CAIIB and PGDFERM and a fellow of the Indian
Institute of Banking and Finance (FIIBF).
He has six years experience in commercial banking after joining as PO and 28
years experience in International Trade Financing, Projecting Financing,
Institutional Relations, Corporate Banking and Corporate Finance.

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About the Company

Denim Division

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an


installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant
accounts for 89% of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million
meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the
world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in
this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim
and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy
weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100%
cotton and various blends.

Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and


Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in
their success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market
leaders.

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They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New


technology that is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of sophisticated
ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has
enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. The facilities of
Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,
Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the
largest denim producers in the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe,
US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) The labs are accredited by Dupont, Levi Strauss, GAP.

All the products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design
inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United
States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and
quality.

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About the Company

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30

International Buyers

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About the Company

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Own Brands

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Production Process

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Process Flow Chart

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Production Process

Spinning

PROCESS FLOW OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT:

Packaging
Spinning
Drawing
Carding
Blow Room
[Blending]

LAY OUT
SLEEVE ROOM

BLENDOM
AT

COTTON GODOWN

FILTER
YARN STORAGE AREA

BLOW ROOM

FILTER
ROOM

EXTENSION CARDING

CARDING

AUTO
CORO
STORE

DRAW FRAME
AUTO CORO

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BLOW ROOM
Input

Cotton Bales
-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic
particle, dusts etc.
Purpose
Opening
Cleaning
Mixing or blending
Dust removal
Uniform feed to the carding machine
Output
Clean & open small tufts
No. of Machines 2 Lines with 12 machines
Machine make
Trtzschler
No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)

To open the compressed layer of


bale of cotton or any staple
fibres.

To convert the mass of cotton


fibres in to a uniform thick sheet
of cotton both longitudinally
and transversely in the form of
compactly built lap.

OBJECTIVES

To blend different varieties of


cotton in the desired
proposition to prepare the raw
material for the spinning
process.

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To extract the impurities like


broken seeds, leaves, sand,
stone & iron particles, short
fibres, immature fibres, dust,
dirt by opening and beating.

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PROCESS FLOW OF BLOW ROOM:


Blendomat
GBR

GBR

AFC

AFC

MPM-8

MPM-8

ASTA

ASTA

BE-961

BE-961

SRS-6

SRS-6

RN

RN

BE-981

BE-981

RSK

RSK

DUST-EX

DUST-EX

FBK 533

FBK 533
CARDING
CARDING

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Blendomat
o Blending of different types of cotton to maintain consistency

GBR
o Cotton Opener
o Converts bales into small tufts

AFC
o Axi-Flow Cleaner
o Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton

MPM-8
o Multiple Mixer with 8 Chambers
o Sorts the cotton fibers & is used for homogenous mixture of fibers

ASTA
o Heavy trash separation from

BE-961
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

SRS-6
o Cleaning

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RN
o Cleaning

BE-981
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

RSK
o Cleaning

DUST-EX
o Removal of Dust & Micro dust

FBK 533
o Enables continuous feeding from Blow Room to Carding

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CARDING
Input
Purpose

Output
No. of Operators
No. of Machines
Machine make
Model
Production
Card cleaning efficiency
CV%
Front Delivery speed

Clean & open small tufts


To open the flocks into individual fibers
Cleaning or elimination of impurities
Reduction of neps
Elimination of dust
Elimination of short fibers
Fiber blending
Fiber orientation or alignment
Sliver formation
Sliver
2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)
20 machines
Trtzschler
DK 803
18,000 kg/day
62-67%
1.2-1.7%
325 Pascal

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Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded
sliver of parallelized and straightened fibers
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must
be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be
straightened.
The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING.
The work is done by carding machine.
The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving
cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves
concentrically above this cylinder
As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the
small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining
trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel
manner in form of a thin web.
This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a
round rope like mass called card sliver.
Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons that are serviceable to
produce denim fabrics.

After carding, the carded slivers go to the draw frame.

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DRAW FRAME
Input
Purpose

Slivers
6 Slivers are converted into 1
Parallelization of fiber
Enhancement of Density
Blending
Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Output

Sliver

No. of Operators

3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)

No. of Machines

6 Breakers + 6 finishers

Machine make

Trtzschler

Model

HSR 900

Production

3.5 ton/day

Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the
number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear
density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity
or evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passages utilised depends on
the spinning system used and the end products

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In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice.

1ST PASSAGE:
Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one sliver.

2nd PASSAGE:
Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open end
spinning.

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SPINNING
The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology
spinning.
Fehlafharfts AUTOCORO spinning machine.
No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6
Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:
AML Section 2376 rotors
EOU Section 1680 rotors
RDP Section 1440 rotor.
Twist produced: Z twist only.
Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.
Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer
Count: 5.3 to 20 count.
6 slub forming machine
The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.
The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.

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Open end spinning:

Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation compared


to Ring Spinning.
This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the
yarn without the need for package rotation. Allowing higher twisting
speeds with a relatively low power cost.
In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered from
delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an opening unit.
The fibers are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the
groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fiber. The fiber layer is
stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant yarn wound onto a
package.
The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational
speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn.
Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the
opening roller.

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The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and
centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where
they are evenly distributed.
The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor,
and the yarn is continuously drawn from the center of the rotor. The
resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages.
The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of
ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn
is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is
a lot cheaper to produce.
Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a
harsher feel than ring spun yarns.
Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne,
20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 tex) range.
The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.
The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver,
not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed
frame from the process line. It can also be modified to remove any
remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn quality.

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Ring Spinning

Open-end Spinning

Bobbin rotates constantly for insertion

Spool does not need to be rotated to

of twist

insert twist

Cannot handle spools of bigger size

Much larger spools can be wound

Can spin finer yarns

3-5 times faster than ring spinning

Uniform and strong yarn

Uniform but flexible yarn with better


dye ability

Combed yarns (finer)

Carded yarns (coarser)

Yarns for varied applications

Yarns for heavier fabrics such as


denims, towels and poplins

Stronger

20% more twisted but 15-20% weaker


as the yarn is coarser

Suitable for all staple fibers

Not suitable for man-made staple fiber


spinning

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Warp Dyeing

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Introduction

Warp DyeingNormally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing.
The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two
most popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are:
1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher/Sheet Dyeing
Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail
below.
Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming
parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping
machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and
staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic
yarn such as glass.
A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A
weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain
from warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn
thats why first section beam can be obtained and then these section beam are
combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for
weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and then
weaving process is carried out .

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There are two method of yarn dyeing in denim production


Rope dyeing.
Slasher dyeing.

Warping method used for both method of dyeing are different. The process
used for rope dyeing is known as BALL WARPING and for slasher dyeing
BEAM WARPING method is used.
BEAM WARPING BALL WARPING

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Warp Dyeing

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Rope Dyeing

1. ROPE DYEING
Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads
of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then undergo a
repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more frequent the
dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.
1 rope = 350-460 ends
Process Flowchart-

Ball Warping
Rope Dyeing
Re-Beaming
Sizing

1) Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form onto


balls.
Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.

Technical Details as per the company- 5 Machines in total for the process
- 1 operator is required per machine
- Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min
- Stop Motion / Defect sensor
- 444 ends per creel
- 320 metes/min creels rpm
- 4 hour cycle time
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2)

Rope Dyeing- the process of dyeing the yarn in rope form.


Morrison Rope dyeing range is installed at Arvind, Naroda.

Machine passage- 800 meters; 5 rolls are used per chamber run.
Machine Units for the processi)

Pre Wetting Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 85C for Sulphur BottomSq.


Zone
Pressure PSI- 70
Dancer Weights- 3

ii)

Pre
Washing
Zone

Tank 2 is cold wash after sulphur bottoming I done


to prevent color slippage and then tank 3 and 4 hot
wash.

iii)

Dyeing Zone

Ph range- 12.45,
Redox potential -820mv to -860mv
Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3 PSI
Dancer Weight- 6
*For indigo dyeing dip time: air time is 1:6

iv)

Wash
Zone

Temp- 50+/- 5 C
Sq. Pressure PSI- 90
Dancer Weights- 6
Ash flow- 100+/-5

v)

Hot Wash
Zone

Temp- 85C
Ph range- 12.60 12.85
Redox- -810 to -660
Sq- 75 PSI
Dancer Weight- 6

Drying Cans

48 cylinders in total
5 bar pressure

Coiling Units

Litter waste and final collected separately

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*Shade Checking System- Spectrophotometer is also present in the


machine
In this method a warp beams first converts into rope beamers and then transfer
to the Rope Dyeing machine for the further process.
Rope-dye ranges enable to produce pure indigo, sulfur bottom, sulfur top, and
colored denim yarn. The yarn goes through scour/sulfur dye, wash boxes, indigo
dye vats, over a skying device (to allow oxidation to occur), through additional
wash boxes, over drying cans and then is coiled into tubs which are transferred to
the Re- Beaming process.
The speed range of this machine is 0 to 30m/min with the production capacity of
2 sets in same time.
Production per day is 36000x2=72000m; at the speed of 25m/min
Count range in rope dyeing is (16s to 6/s) OE and Slub both.

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3)

Re-Beaming - Re-opening the rope and winding it on beams so that they

can be sized on next step.


Technical Details as per the company- 13 Machines in total for the process
- 1 operator is required per machine
- Machine setup time is 25 min
- 441 combs per machine
- 96000 meter/ day/ machine

4)

Sizing To cover the yarn with size material in order to prevent breakage

during the weaving process due to the tension it undergoes.


Technical Details as per the company- 3 Machines in total for the process, for regular sizing and
third for experiments and tests.
- 2 creels set at a time lodged in the machine, one spare
and one running
- 1 operator per machine & 2 assistant operator per
machine required

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Process- Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)
- Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90C and any of the 4
recepies mentioned as
per the requirement
64 reed, 43 water, 600gm NS powder/binder, 100kkg with starch
Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg
800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)
1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)
125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot
- Drying slot- approx. 125C temp and 4 cylinders
- Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each

5)

Recepie (SBIT Mix)

*SBIT stands for Sulphur Bottom Indigo Topping

Chemical

Box(gpl)

Feed(gpl)

S. Black

170/480

Caustic

1.5

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Sulphide

10

35

Xekol SNS

1.5

1.9

Setamol WL

0.57

1.9

Primasol NF

1.9

Condition

Indigo

Sulphur

Ph +/- 0.2

12.45-12.70

12.55-12.85

820-860

610-660

Redox +/20
Wetability

Type of Bath for BOX MIX


Dark INDIGO
Conductivity at the start

Instant to 3 seconds

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50 o 60 ms

Warp Dyeing

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Slasher Dyeing

2. SLASHER DYEING
In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping
beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing
system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct
warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over
and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that multiple sheets
of yarns can be made.
In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are
dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous slasher dyeing
range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as
re-beaming, sizing.
Process Flowchart-

Pre wetting
Washing
Dyeing
Washing
Drying
Sizing
Drying
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Machine Units for the processi)

Pre Wetting
Zone

Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 85C for Sulphur Bottom


Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN

(Dyeing tank)
Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm3
ii)

Dyeing

Nip pressure= 55+/-3


Temp= room temp
Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks

iii)

Washing

1500 l

iv)

Drying

8 cylinders
6 bar pressure in total

v)

Sizing

2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of 15m


depth

vi)

Drying
Cans

12 cylinders in total
5 bar pressure

vii)

Accumulator

220m capacity

viii)

Compensator

Winding tension 3000/ KN

and leasing

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Recipe
Sulphur

Indigo

Decol- 2 gpl

Septamol WS- 3 gpl

Sodium sulphite- 15 gpl

Indigo- 75 gpl

Caustic- 5 gpl

Caustic- 75 gpl

Sulphur- X gpl

Hydrosulphite- 115 gpl

Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl

Denim HS (leveling agent)- 7.5 gpl

Anti oxidant- 3 gpl

Machine Setting Specification- SBIT mix


Machine spec
Machine speed

28 +/- 1 meter/min

Head stock press

6+/- 1 Bar

Creel tension

110 +/- 100 N

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Pre wet
d.p

3 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing pressure

50 +/- 3 bar
55 +/- 3 bar

PW temp

85 +/- 4

Washing Flow rate

2000 +/- 500 lit/hr

Dyeing
D.P.

3 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
3 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing Pressure
(i) (ii)

45 +/-3 bar

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Washing Zone
D.P.

2.5 +/- .5
2.5 +/- .5
3.0 +/- .5

Squeezing Pressure
(i)

5-0 +/-3 bar

Temp

50 +/- 4 C

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Weaving

Introduction

WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed yarn)


and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim in a variety of weights
and styles.

Input

Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output

Woven Denim Fabric

No. of Operators

6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)

No. of Machines

54

Machine make

Tsudakoma

Model

ZAX 9100

Production

95000m/day

Max. Fabric Width

71.5

Full Weaver's
Beam

Tension Roll

Drop Pins

Heald Wires

Lower Press
Roll

Friction Roll

Upper Press
Roll

Reed

Bottom Guide
Roll

Batching
guide Roll

Batching Roll

Cloth Roll

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AUTHENTIC DENIM
A heavy weight fabric
Made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics
3/1 right hand twill
100% natural indigo dyed
Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch

TYPES OF YARNS USED


Warp: Organic, Conventional
Weft- Open end, Ring spun, Slub, Lycra, Polyester, Poly lycra

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Finishing & Processing

Introduction

Finishing and Processing


Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other finishing
departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the singeing and shrinking is
carried out in a single range. This reduces the process time, material handling,
cost of production and labour cost.
Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an
important role infabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric
shrinkage.

The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.
The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.
1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple
handle, softness and good drape.
2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths,
dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.
3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation,
moisture absorption and air permeability.
4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability,
mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.

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Finishing & Processing

1) Wet Finishing Department


Process Flow Chart:

Singeing Unit
Mercerizing Unit
Stentering Unit
Wet Finishing Unit

I.

Singeing Unit
Craddle Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Singeing Unit

Nip Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching & Plaiting Unit

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Wet Finishing

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Unit Specification Capacity: 40-50 m/min


Production: 41000-45000 m/ day
15000-17000 m/shift
CNG Gas Burner
90 Flame Interaction
3 operator per machine
II.

Mercerizing Unit
Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Caustic Impregnatorr

Stablizer Unit

Washing Unit

Acid Unit

Drying Zone

Outlet J Unit

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III.

Stentering Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padder

Foam Coating Unit

Cliping Unit

Chamber
CNG Fire
Blower
Heat Setting

Coling Drum

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

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Wet Finishing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padding

Nip

Width Adjusting line

Skew line

Mahalo Unit

Dry Stack Section 1 & 2

Rubber Unit

Palmer Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

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Denim Incubation Department

Design Team

DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills projects.
The department has been constituted in such a manner that it has 2 parts The Design Team
The Technical Team

Design Team:
The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.
It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along
with the textile experts and textile designers.
The team works together to create a completely different denim design.
Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited scope,
this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking
skills to come up with unprecedented designs.
They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the various
parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative ideas.
These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for
top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain the
exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.
Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara,
Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others, select these
designs and order them to be produced in mass.
The designs can be created by changing one of the following
characteristics of the fabric:
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Weave of the fabric:


o (denim is usually 3 x 1 twill)- variations are made in twill weave
or by changing the nature of the weave all together. Like 2X1
or other variations

The dying procedures output:


o (usually done with indigo and sulphur dyes) the dying can
give colour effects to the fabric. Different compositions of
dyes are used and innovations and creativity in the use of
colors, produces more number of designs. Sometimes the
weft and the warp are of different dyes, creating an
iridescent effect. Though traditionally blue or black, many
other colours of denims are created
Fiber Used:
o Authentic denim uses cotton fiber, but for design variations
cotton blends are used. Light weight yarns like polyester are
used to manufacture denim used in garments like jeggings
and lighter weight denim requirements. Most popular
addition to denim fabric is Lycra for streatchability as that is
a prominent feature of jeans. Most recent type of denim
added to the denim family of Arvind is Excel denim(worlds
softest denim)*.

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Finishes Applied:
o Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of finish
applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of finishes that can
be applied to any fabric and same goes for denim. Usually
mercerization is a process not done for denims, as it does
not require very soft and smooth fibers, but inclusion of
finished like mercerization or resin finish, can completely
change the look and feel of the fabric. Other aesthetic
finishes, like partial napping or emerization, anti-crease
finish, permanent creases by resin finish can be given.
*The fabric, Excel Denims, would be manufactured in Arvind Groups production
facility in Ahmedabad, which has a capacity of 120 million metres of fabric per annum.
While Birla Cellulose would be involved in the R&D to create the fibre made of super
refined wood pulp, Arvind would be manufacturing the fabric and selling them both in
the domestic and international markets.

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Denim Incubation Department

Design Lines

The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new
products are added to it every day:

Kato (Japanese denim line):


o Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics
mostly made on the shuttle loom and with selvedge.
ADL (Arvind Denim Lab):
o The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014 collection
has special attractions in the form of colour denims, indigos with
colour fills andsummer lights in excel along with the authentic core
line
Euroline (European denim line):
o The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The s/s
2014 collection has an introduction of shades like pink, sky blue but
in a grading of color.
Metro (Indian denim line):
o The metro line is designed by Arvinds in-house design team
specifically for Indian brands. The collection has the flavor of a true
Indian denim. We have also recently launched a collection in Excel
called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. It will be the
worlds softest denim.

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Denim Incubation Department


-- Innovation Pipeline Denims

Arvinds Design department is always high on new developments in the denim


world and always has number of projects under the innovation pipeline which are
yet to be tested and finalized for the season breaks accordingly. Few of those
projects are-

SPIES
o Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically
treated during spinning.
NEO
o Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.
KHADI
o Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look,
drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability.
JACQUARD
o Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for
one fabric and different look.
RING

LINEN
o 100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a
premium line

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Denim Incubation Department

Technical Team

The technical team of the development and new technology team aims
at developing the fabric as per customer requirements.
They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together
and collaborate with each of the processing units to get the desired
output of the fabric.
Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and
processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching customer
requirements.
Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department,
they are delegated to the individual units for mass production.
The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more than
8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs
range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on any of
the factors mentioned above.
Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in
bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is production Planning
and Control and the mass production of fabrics start.
Collection development is done at least one year in advance and
presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order.
These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric
characteristic being showcased.

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There are basically two ways this whole process works:


Collection Development
Customer Development
Technical department takes care of the re production and du-pro problems of the
ongoing batches also.
Consistency/Reproducibility
Feed/Stock
Machines Used
Process Followed
All of the above mentioned factors are taken care by the DID right from the
beginning of the collection development till the marketing stage.

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DID
Customer
Development

Collection
Development

Innovation and Process Upgradation


Approval/Confirmmation from the CEO
Testing of Physical Properties
Washing
Spinning (Yran slub characteristics etc)
Dye Stuf (dye style, shade etc)
Weaving (Constrction and Selevedge)
Finishing (Process and Sequence, OD,
printing/coating)
Inspection
QA for Testing- Sampling
Comercialisation of the fabric chart
prepared
Cost Upgradation- Final Costing
Marketting
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QUALITY ASSURANCE AND STANDARDISATION


Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers for
over 80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that starts when
the customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the samples accordingly, it
is checked for quality assurance measures and compliances with customer needs.
At later stages the fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done.
Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects


in fabrics.
The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60
degrees.
Speed of fabric on inspection m/c
: 25m/min
Light
: 100 Lux
Inclination
: 570
Cost of inspection
: Rs. 0.65/mtr

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Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the
fabric depends on the customer preferences.
There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the
defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement
defects are allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4point allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.
4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:
Size of defect

Penalty Points

3 or less

1 Point

3.1 to 6

2 Points

6.1 to 9

3 Points

More than 9

4 Points

Holes or Openings(Largest Dimension)


1 or less

2 Points

More than 1

4 Points

No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.

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QUALITY ASSURANCE & STANDARDISATION

DEFECTS

Major Defects are classified as follows: Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous
yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.
Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle
line, barre, slub,hole, press off.
Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop,
color smear or shading.

Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as
SECONDS .
At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production
plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The
finishing department gives the material transfer note to the inspection
department where the material is checked for the following defects:

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Spinning related Defects:


Warp Slub
Weft Slub
Thick end
Coarse/fine weft
Weft bar

Weaving preparatory related defects


Knot
Slack end
Ball formation
Size patches

Weaving related defects


Starting mark
Tight end
Weft float
Knot
Moir
Repaired warp
Double end

Bowing and Skewing

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Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the bowing
and s skewing at every 10 meters.
The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows:
Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to
the selvedge of the fabric.
A bow may have different forms:

If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.

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TESTING
Physical Testing:

The samples are tested for/by:


Yarn evenness: USTER TESTER 5
Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system:
Yarn count and strength
Single yarn tester
Instron 4465:
Tensile Test for fabric
Elemendorf Tearing Strength:
Tearing strength check by application of 9000g force
Chatillon Stiffness Tester
Resistance to bending
Paramount humidity checker
For humidity control
Stretch/elongation test

Weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated swatch sample for


half an hour

Dimensional Stability and skew movement test


Shrinkage test
Measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning
Ozone test chamber by USA inc.
Snarl indicator
Twist tester
Statex (14.4 tpi)
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Chemical testing
Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVIs Test method


Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005

Water Repellency

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali

ISO 105-E04

POLO method
Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

ISO 105*12

WATER repellency

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali

ISO 105-E04

Washing

C06-AIM

SPOT TEST

SI 1005

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Chemical Tests Conducted in the lab:


o Raw Material checking like dyeing/finishing auxhillaries
Basic chemical.
Percentage of purity of Hydros, Caustic acid, peroxides etc
Purity performance of dyes like indigo, vat sulphur
Auhilaries like wetting agents, sizing, finishing etc
o Stock Weight of indigo (gpl)
Brandsbender moisture tester (105 degree c. for 4 hrs)
o Weighing balance
Mettler Toledo
o Crockmeter

AATCC

o Formldehyde content in dye/stock bath


o Thermo orion pH meter
o Launder-O-meter
o ATLAS crockmeter
o Genesys 10 spectrophotometer
o Muffle furnace
o Cintex incubator
o EEC beaker dyeing machine
o USA ozone test chamber
o Flamability tester

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Shade testing:
The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.
HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to
process, display, analyze and report color measurement results.
Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color
difference data in all widely used color scales, for various lighting and
observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast go/no-go decisions.
Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.
Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots
and spectral curves.
All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database
programs.
The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots
deviations from avg and perfect sample for each roll.
It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from
normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and
minimize shade variation.
It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So that
the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various
shades

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PACKAGING AND SHIPPING

* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the packaging
dept so as to put on the required details and ship the consignment.
The details that need to be present on the packaging are:
Shipment no.
Date
Sort no
F.M.C

Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene.


Spec. of polythene cover:

Plastic bags of 23 micron used

Code no
Meters
Flags/points
Opt no.

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ACCREDITATIONS

ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for Manufacture


and Supply of Denim Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management systems


and designed to help organizations ensure that they meet the needs of
customers and other stakeholders [1] while meeting statutory and
regulatory requirements related to the product.

The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in thinking by


actually placing the concept of process management front and center
("Process management" was the monitoring and optimisation of a
company's tasks and activities, instead of just inspection of the final
product).

IS0 14000:
Provides environment management standards to help organisations
minimize their negative impact on the environment
Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by third party
Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000

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Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and
Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric including
stretch denims.
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification
system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all
stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited
or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health,
and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to
safeguard health.

Skal International Standards for Sustainable Textile Production by


Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of organic
cotton.

Global Organic Textile Standards, Control Union Certifications, The


Netherlands, for Processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.

Levis strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods
and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL National Accreditation Board for Laboratories, Delhi,


India, for Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.

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Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods and


conditions set forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The Arvind Mills
Ltd.

Liz Claiborne Intl Ltd., Testing audit performance, Laboratory, Shirting


Business Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

Labs are certified by DUPONT (LYCRA).


.

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Project Report

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Project Title
o Arvinds Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives

Objective
o Introduction to BCI
o Arvinds Implementation of BCI Norms
o Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma
Cotton

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Brief

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Methodology
o Secondary research
Understanding of BCI and its Norms.
o Primary Research
Data Collection
Quality Analysis of BCI bunny Brahma Cotton
Quality Analysis of Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Analysis of the differences between BCI-Bunny Brahma &
Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Conclusion

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Better Cotton Initiative

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is primarily focusing on the following :


To demonstrate the inherent benefits of BC production, particularly the
financial profitability for farmers.
To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and
environmental health.
To improve soil health and biodiversity.
To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm
workers.
To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton
production.
To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain.

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KEY FEATURES

FACTS & FIGURES

Producers need to meet the Minimum


Production Criteria which are the initial core
requirements, to receive a license to produce
BC.
Minimum Production Criteria (MPC) are the
starting point in a cycle of continuous
improvement required by BCI. Once MPC are
met, producers have to address Progress
Requirements.
BCI aims to transform cotton production
worldwide by developing BC as a sustainable
mainstream commodity. There is not BC label
on final products.
A major partner speeding up the production
of BC is the BC Fast Track Program. Leading
BCI brands as well as a number of public
sector funders contribute to the BC Fast Track
program, which channels funds directly to
farmer training and improvement programs,
all designed around the BC standard. This
allows BCI and its partners to reach more
regions, train more farmers and produce
more cotton.
BCI membership focuses on enabling positive
change in the field, supporting supply
creation, building public support and
demonstrating market place demand for BC as
a mainstream commodity.

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490,000 Metric Tons of


Better Cotton was
produced on 435,000
hectares by 90,000
farmers in 2011-12.
BCI members represents
over 5% of the worlds
total consumption.
246 members by the
end of 2012.

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The Better Cotton System


The Production Principles and Criteria cannot operate in isolation, and form part
of the BC System. This BC System is made up of the following inter-dependent
components, each as important as the other in making the system effectively
deliver its objectives:
Production Principles and Criteria to provide a global definition of BC
Farmer Support to promote enabling mechanisms at a local and global level,
working with experienced implementing partners, and stimulating public-private
partnership funds to implement these mechanisms
Farm Assessment to encourage farmers to continuously improve, through
measuring results and seasonal learning cycles
Supply Chain connecting supply with demand through an identifiable bale of
100% BC lint
Monitoring, Evaluation and Learning mechanisms to measure progress and
change and to ensure the BC System has the intended impacts on its direct
beneficiaries
Tools, guidelines and learning forums to facilitate the exchange of best practices
and knowledge to encourage the scaling up of collective action

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PRODUCTION PRINCIPLES
BC is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact of crop
protection practices
BC is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the
availability of water
BC is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil
BC is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats
BC is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the quality of the
fiber
BC is produced by farmers who promote decent work
CRITERIA FOR ASSESSMENT
Pass and fail:
Producer need to respect Better Cotton Minimum Production Criteria in
order to get a license to produce BC. The BC system aims at continuous
improvement. It is not organized as a simple pass or fail system but goes
beyond by integrating elements of capacity building, data management,
and progress.

What happens if non-conformity is found?


At least 80% of the farmers in Learning Group must comply with all relevant
BC criteria in order for the group to get a license to produce BC. Where a
systematic breach of a Minimum Production Criteria is observed, the whole
Producer Unit may be disqualified.

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Does the initiative offer incentives for continuous improvement?


After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, BC farmers have to meet
Progress Requirements. These progress requirements are presented in the
Standards Map database as Medium-term requirements.

AUDIT INFORMATION
1st, 2nd, 3rd party certification:
The BC assurance system is a combination of self-assessment, second party
credibility checks and third party verification.
Frequency of audits:

Yearly

Validity of audit certificate:

One year.

PRODUCTS TRACEABLITY ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN


One of the key elements of the supply chain for BC is the creation of 100% BC
bales, meaning that BC is segregated from farm to gin.
Chain of Custody standard
BCI will create a 100% BC bale, and connect the supply of BC to demand,
putting in place a supply chain system that facilitates the procurement of
BC.
USE OF LOGO ON THE FINAL PRODUCT?
No

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SUPPORT
To help farmers adopt practices consistent with the BCI Production Principles, BCI
coordinates a program of farmer support activities delivered through experienced
Implementing Partners.
Farmers support covers knowledge sharing and skills development and effective
producer organization For Implementing Partners, three of the BC System
components focus on support. BCI provides a Step by Step Guide to
Implementation for both smallholders and large farms and annual workshops that
help companies understand and implement the BCI program. Applications for
financial grants can be submitted twice a year through an online form. The
funding contribution matches up to a maximum of 50% of the total project cost.
Members receive supply chain support from dedicated supply chain coordinators,
as well as Secretariat and Council support through Caucus calls, BCI hosted events
and webinars.
COSTS
Membership fee: The membership fee is based on member category, size
and either annual lint cotton consumption, annual turnover/income, or
whether the organization is based in an OECD Country or a non-OECD
country.
Certification costs: Third party verification costs are born by large farms or
by BCI in the case of smallholders.

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THE BCI STANDARD SYSTEM IS APPLICABLE TO PRODUCERS IN THE FOLLOWING


COUNTRIES AND REGIONS:
ASIA China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan
AFRICA Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mali, Senegal, Togo
SOUTH AMERICA Brazil

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Areas Covered by BCI standard system:


Immediate Requirement:
The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core requirements
for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria are presented in the
Standards Map database as Immediate requirements.

Medium-term requirement:
The BCI Progress Requirements form an additional set of requirements
that farmers, after meeting the Minimum Production Criteria must
complete with a minimum number of additional benchmarks within the
following 3 growing seasons, while of course maintaining compliance to the
Minimum Production Criteria. These progress requirements are
presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term
requirements.

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OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:

EXPLANATION:
Critical:
The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core requirements
for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria are presented in the
Standards Map database as critical requirements.

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Medium term:
After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, Better Cotton farmers
have to meet Progress Requirements. These progress requirements are
presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term requirements.

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Introduction

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop
models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw
material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated
contract farming projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in
Tapi district of Gujarat State.

Aims of the Initiative


Improve the farmer's productivity and income
Develop environmentally sustainable business models
Enhance the region's biodiversity
Promote decent work ethics
Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Farm Projects

Akola

Nizar

(Maharashtra)

(Gujarat)

2010

2011

131

58

189

Total area covered (Ha)

15,000

10,400

25,400

No. of farmers benefitted

3,000

2,600

5,600

No. of farm family members

15,000

13,000

28,000

Employment generated (Farm workers)

45,000

40,000

85,000

Capacity (Bales of 165kgs)

35,000

40,000

75,000

Details of Project

Project Since
No. of Villages

Total

benefitted

Cotton Type

Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Contract Farming

From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and
thorough.
Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.
Infrastructure and capacity building:
This includes research, collaborations with national & international organizations,
research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities.
Building the right team:
A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease
specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.

Training:
Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest and
disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender issues,
etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance material on better
management practices based on Better Cotton Production criteria is developed.

Technology and skill development:


Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps in
finding location-specific solutions.
Monitoring:
Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant monitoring
ensure a healthy crop. Validation work on better management practices is carried out.
Elimination:
Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input
suppliers.
Assured buy back:
Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A 'Farm
Gate' payment policy ensures that payments are made within seven working days.

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Benefits

Managing the supply chain:


Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive
management information system. It is involved in establishing an effective producer
organization, the segregation of better cotton, chain of custody procedures and
engagement with ginners and other organizations.

A HOLISTIC APPROACH
TO CONTRACT
FARMING WHERE THE
ECONOMIC, SOCIAL
AND
ENVIRONMENTAL
BENEFITS NOT ONLY
CO-EXIST BUT ALSO
AUGMENT EACH
OTHER.

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Economic benefits
Reduced cost of production: The cost of production is reduced through the
collective purchase of farm inputs and better, economical deals from
suppliers.
Better profitability: The need for middle men has been eliminated as
Arvind ensures that the produce is bought at the farmer's door step.
Better access to affordable finance: Dependence on local moneylenders
has also been reduced as farmers are encouraged to deal with reliable
financial institutions.
Better nutrient, pest and disease management: Better management
practices ensure reduced use of inputs (like synthetic pesticides & fertilizers
), untimely reducing the risk taken in synthetic pesticides handling and
application.
Knowledge sharing and skill development: Farmers receive practical
knowledge on production principles that can decrease the cost of
production and increase profitability.
Quality of fibre: From soil preparation to harvesting and segregating better
quality cotton at the farm gate, our agronomist are involved in every
process to ensure better quality cotton.

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Environmental benefits
Water efficiency: The learning forums provide know how on using water
efficiently through micro irrigation.

Soil health: Reduced use of pesticides, micro irrigation and regular soil
tests ensure better soil health.

Habitat conservation: The initiative helps to conserve their natural habitat


by minimizing the harmful effects of crop protection by reducing use of
pesticides.

Social benefits
Decent work ethics: The initiative gives men, women and backward classes
equal employment and income opportunities (equal and approved wages).

Abolishing social evils: Social and cultural programmes are regularly


organized in order to create awareness about child labour and gender
discrimination. Presently, both the projects put together employs 85000
farm workers both men and women.

Building a healthy community: Internationally recognized health and safety


standards are followed. The initiative also works towards building a strong
social structure based on mutual cooperation and understanding.
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Quality Assessment

Akola (Maharashtra)

Nizar (Gujarat)

Length (Staple in mm)

29.0 +

29.0 +

Strength (Grams per tex)

29.0 +

29.0 +

3.5 - 4.3

3.7 - 4.4

Strict Middling

Strict Middling

Upon Lifting

Upon Lifting

5% HVI Results

5% HVI Results

BCI at Arvind Limited

Quality Parameters

Micronaire
Grade
UBI Codes
Advantage Arvind

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Results & Analysis

Comparison of BCI-BB and BB Cotton


90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
BB Cotton

UHM STR
L
4.12 5.28

BCI-BB Cotton 1.31

UHML
Str
MIC
UI
SFI
Elg
+b
Rd
Lint%
Inv%
Trash%
M%
Nep

1.77

MIC

UI

SFI

Elg

(+b)

8.62

81.6

7.9

6.7

8.1

3.37

82.8

6.7

Upper half Mean Length


Strength
Micronaire
Uniformity Index
Short Fiber Index
Elongation
Yellowness
Reflectivity
Lint Percentage
Invisible Trash Percentage
Trash Percentage
Moisture Percentage
Neps Length

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Rd

Inv% Trash M% Nep


%
76.6 1.94 23.7 9.43 31.48
78.8

2.09 12.58 7.31 19.86

(mm)
(g/tex)
(mg/inch)

(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)

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BCI at Arvind Limited

Conclusion

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to
develop models that make production of its most valued and most extensively
used raw material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.

Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle of the
workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall quality level of
Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level of Cotton fibers.

The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite being
manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton from the
same areas.

The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the uniformity index


of BB i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the BCI-Cotton and affects its
quality greatly.

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REFERENCE

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WEB-REFERENCES
www.arvindmills.com

http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php

http://www.bettercotton.org/

www.garmento.org

www.denimology.com

www.cottoninc.com

BOOKS
Fabric science Glock and Kunj

Fabric Finishing J T Marsh

Textile Science - B P Corbman

Textile Science Tortora

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