Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
N.Sumathi
Department of commerce
Bharathiar University
Coimbatore-46 Coimbatore-46
INTRODUCTION
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the
international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms of its
contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange earnings. It
contributes 20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise collections, 18 percent of
employment in the industrial sector, nearly 20 percent to the countrys total export earning and 4
percent to the Gross Domestic Product.
In human history, past and present can never ignore the importance of textile in a
civilization decisively affecting its destinies, effectively changing its social scenario. A brief but
thoroughly researched feature on Indian textile culture.
HISTORY OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
India has been well known for her textile goods since very ancient times. The traditional
textile industry of India was virtually decayed during the colonial regime. However, the modern
textile industry took birth in India in the early nineteenth century when the first textile mill in the
country was established at fort gloster near Calcutta in 1818. The cotton textile industry, however,
made its real beginning in Bombay, in 1850s. The first cotton textile mill of Bombay was established
in 1854 by a Parsi cotton merchant then engaged in overseas and internal trade. Indeed, the vast
majority of the early mills were the handiwork of Parsi merchants engaged in yarn and cloth trade at
home and Chinese and African markets.
The first cotton mill in Ahmedabad, which was eventually to emerge as a rival centre to
Bombay, was established in 1861. The spread of the textile industry to Ahmedabad was largely due
to the Gujarati trading class.
The cotton textile industry made rapid progress in the second half of the nineteenth century
and by the end of the century there were 178 cotton textile mills; but during the year 1900 the
cotton textile industry was in bad state due to the great famine and a number of mills of Bombay
and Ahmedabad were to be closed down for long periods.
The two world War and the Swadeshi movement provided great stimulus to the Indian
cotton textile industry. However, during the period 1922 to 1937 the industry was in doldrums and
during this period a number of the Bombay mills changed hands. The second World War, during
which textile import from Japan completely stopped, however, brought about an unprecedented
growth of this industry. The number of mills increased from 178 with 4.05 lakh looms in 1901 to 249
mills with 13.35 lakh looms in 1921 and further to 396 mills with over 20 lakh looms in 1941. By
1945 there were 417 mills employing 5.10 lakh workers.
The cotton textile industry is rightly described as a Swadeshi industry because it was
developed with indigenous entrepreneurship and capital and in the pre-independence era the
Swadeshi movement stimulated demand for Indian textile in the country.
The partition of the country at the time of independence affected the cotton textile industry
also. The Indian union got 409 out of the 423 textiles mills of the undivided India. 14 mills and 22
per cent of the land under cotton cultivation went to Pakistan. Some mills were closed down for
some time. For a number of years since independence, Indian mills had to import cotton from
Pakistan and other countries.
After independence, the cotton textile industry made rapid strides under the Plans. Between
1951 and 1982 the total number of spindles doubled from 11 million to 22 million. It increased
further to well over 26 million by 1989-90.
CURRENT POSSITION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA
Textile constitutes the single largest industry in India. The segment of the industry during
the year 2000-01 has been positive. The production of cotton declined from 156 lakh bales in 19992000 to 1.40 lakh bales during 2000-01. Production of man-made fibre increased from 835 million
kgs in 1999-2000 to 904 million kgs during the year 2000-01 registering a growth of 8.26%. The
production of spun yarn increased to 3160 million kgs during 2000-01 from 3046 million kgs during
1999-2000 registering a growth of 3.7%. The production of man-made filament yarn registered a
growth of 2.91% during the year 1999-2000 increasing from 894 million kgs to 920 million kgs. The
production of fabric registered a growth of 2.7% during the year 1999-2000 increasing from 39,208
million sq mtrs to 40,256 million sq mtrs. The production of mill sector declined by 2.6% while
production of handloom, powerloom and hosiery sector increased by 2%, 2.7% and 5.1%
respectively. The exports of textiles and garments increased from Rs. 455048 million to Rs. 552424
million, registering a growth of 21%. Growth in the textile industry in the year 2003-2004 was Rs.
1609 billion. And during 2004-05 production of fabrics touched a peak of 45,378 million squre
meters. In the year 2005-06 up to November, production of fabrics registered a further growth of 9
percent over the corresponding period of the previous year.
With the growing awareness in the industry of its strengths and weakness and the need for
exploiting the opportunities and averting threats, the government has initiated many policy
measures as follows.
The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) was launched in April 99 to provide
easy access to capital for technological upgradation by various segments of the Industry.
1 The Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC) was launched in February 2000 to address
issues relating to the core fibre of Cotton like low productivity, contamination, obsolete
ginning and pressing factories, lack of storage facilities and marketing infrastructure
1 A New Long Term Textiles and Garments Export Entitlement (Quota) Policies 2000-2004
was announced for a period of five years with effect from 1.1.2000 to 31.12.2004 covering
the remaining period of the quota regime.
In the current year Budget 2006-2007 states the measures for Textile Industry as follows
1. Cotton Textiles
2. Synthetic Textiles
3. Other like Wool, Jute, Silk etc.
All segments have their own place but even today cotton textiles continue to dominate with
73% share. The structure of cotton textile industry is very complex with co-existence of oldest
technologies of hand spinning and hand weaving with the most sophisticated automatic spindles
and loom. The structure of the textile industry is extremely complex with the modern, sophisticated
and highly mechanized mill sector on the one hand and hand spinning and hand weaving
(handloom sector) on the other in between falls the decentralised small scale powerloom sector.
Unlike other major textile-producing countries, Indias textile industry is comprised mostly of
small-scale, nonintegrated spinning, weaving, finishing, and apparel-making enterprises. This
unique industry structure is primarily a legacy of government policies that have promoted laborintensive, small-scale operations and discriminated against larger scale firms:
Composite Mills.
Relatively large-scale mills that integrate spinning, weaving and, sometimes, fabric finishing are
common in other major textile-producing countries. In India, however, these types of mills now
account for about only 3 percent of output in the textile sector. About 276 composite mills are
now operating in India, most owned by the public sector and many deemed financially sick. In
2003-2004 composite mills that produced 1434 m.sq mts of cloth. Most of these mills are
located in Gujarat and Maharashtra.
Spinning.
Spinning is the process of converting cotton or manmade fiber into yarn to be used for weaving
and knitting. This mills chiefly located in North India. Spinning sector is technology intensive
and productivity is affected by the quality of cotton and the cleaning process used during
ginning. Largely due to deregulation beginning in the mid-1980s, spinning is the most
consolidated and technically efficient sector in Indias textile industry. Average plant size
remains small, however, and technology outdated, relative to other major producers. In
2002/03, Indias spinning sector consisted of about 1,146 small-scale independent firms and
1,599 larger scale independent units.
Weaving and Knitting.
The weaving and knits sector lies at the heart of the industry. In 2004-05, of the total production
from the weaving sector, about 46 percent was cotton cloth, 41 percent was 100% non-cotton
including khadi, wool and silk and 13 percent was blended cloth. Three distinctive technologies
are used in the sector handlooms, powerlooms and knitting machines. Weaving and knitting
converts cotton, manmade, or blended yarns into woven or knitted fabrics. Indias weaving and
knitting sector remains highly fragmented, small-scale, and labour-intensive. This sector
consists of about 3.9 million handlooms, 380,000 powerloom enter-prises that operate about
1.7 million looms, and just 137,000 looms in the various composite mills. Powerlooms are
small firms, with an average loom capacity of four to five owned by independent entrepreneurs
or weavers. Modern shuttleless looms account for less than 1 percent of loom capacity.
Fabric Finishing.
Fabric finishing (also referred to as processing), which includes dyeing, printing, and other cloth
preparation prior to the manufacture of clothing, is also dominated by a large number of
independent, small-scale enterprises. Overall, about 2,300 processors are operating in India,
including about 2,100 independent units and 200 units that are integrated with spinning,
weaving, or knitting units.
Clothing.
Apparel is produced by about 77,000 small-scale units classified as domestic manufacturers,
manufacturer exporters, and fabricators (subcontractors).
INDIAS MAJOR COMPETITIORS IN THE WORLD
To understand Indias position among other textile producing the industry contributes 9% of
GDP and 35% of foreign exchange earning, Indias share in global exports is only 3% compared to
Chinas 13.75% percent. In addition to China, other developing countries are emerging as serious
competitive threats to India. Looking at export shares, Korea (6%) and Taiwan (5.5%) are ahead of
India, while Turkey (2.9%) has already caught up and others like Thailand (2.3%) and Indonesia
(2%) are not much further behind. The reason for this development is the fact that India lags behind
these countries in investment levels, technology, quality and logistics. If India were competitive in
some key segments it could serve as a basis for building a modern industry, but there is no
evidence of such signs, except to some extent in the spinning industry.
India's
Competitive Advantage
Process
Position
Spinning
Medium
Weaving
Indonesia, Turkey
Vietnam, Philippines
Power, finance
Processing,
Scale economy
Technology, environmentLow
Issues, finance
Garmenting
The cotton textile industry is reeling under manifold problems. The major problems are the
following:
Sickness:
Sickness is widespread in the cotton textile industry. After the engineering industry, the cotton
textile industry has the highest incidence of sickness. As many as 125 sick units have been
taken over by the Central Government. Sickness is caused by various reasons like the
problems mentioned below.
Obsolescence:
The plant and machinery and technology employed by a number of units are obsolete. The
need today is to make the industry technologically up-to-date rather than expand capacity as
such. This need was foreseen quite sometime back and schemes for modernisation of textile
industry had been introduced. The soft loan scheme was introduced a few years back and
some units were able to take advantage of the scheme and modernise their equipment.
However, the problem has not been fully tackled and it is of utmost importance that the whole
industry is technologically updated. Not many companies would be able to find resources
internally and will have to depend on financial institutions and other sources.
Government Regulations:
Government regulations like the obligation to produced controlled cloth are against the interest
of the industry. During the last two decades the excessive regulations exercised by the
government on the mill sector has promoted inefficiency in both production and management.
This has also resulted in a colossal waste of raw materials and productive facilities. For
example, the mills are not allowed to use filament yarn in warp in order to protect the interest of
art silk and powerloom sector which use this yarn to cater to the affluent section of society.
Accumulation of Stock:
At times the industry faces accumulation of
huge stocks. low profits.
the problems
leading to loss or
India
positive
.Thro
by the exporting
percent
ught
community,
expo
textile
rt
increased
frien
substantially
dly
gove
billion in 1991-
rnme
92 to US$ 12.10
nt
billion
during
polici
2000-01.
The
es
textile
export
and
basket
Miscellaneous:
The industry faces a number
EXPORT AT GLANCE:
Textile
exports
exports
from
efforts
exports
contributing
of
over
total
46
textile
the year 2000-01 Indias textile export was US$ 12014.4 million. It was increased the year
2004-05 US$ 13038.64 million. The exports of textiles (including handicrafts, jute, and coir)
formed 24.6% of total exports in 2001-2002, however this percentage decreased to 16.24%
during 2004-2005. The textile exports recorded a growth of 15.3% in 2002-2003 and 8.7%
in 2003-2004. Textile exports during the period of April-February 2003-2004 amounted to
$11,698.5 million. During 2004-05 textile exports were US$ 13,039.00 million, recording a
decline of 3.4% as compared to the corresponding period of previous year. However, during
April-November, 2005, the textile exports have shown growth of 8.2% as compare to the
corresponding period of previous year. Against a target of US$ 15,160 million during 200405, the textile exports were of US$13039 million, registering a shortfall of 14% against the
target. The overall export target for 2005-06 has been fixed at US$ 15,565 million. In 2005
textile and garments accounted for about 16% of export earning. Indias textile export to the
US have shown a good rise of 29.5% between January and June 2005.
INVESTMENT IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Investment is the key for Indian textiles to make rapid strides. The Vision Statement
prepared by the Indian Cotton Mills federation has projected that the industry has the
potential to reach a size of $85 billion by 2010 from the current level of $ 36 billion. Further,
the vision statement has estimated that textile exports could touch $40 billion by 2010 from
$ 11 billion in 2002. In the process, Indias share in the global textile and clothing trade is
expected to double from three percent in 2002 to six percent by 2010.
To reach these these ambitious target, it is estimated that new investment to the
tune of Rs.1, 40,000 crores will be needed in the next five years. After analysing the
capacity and technology levels in various segments of textile Industry and the need for
modernisation, funds required for various segments have been below.
Sl.No.
Segment
Investment
(Rs.in crore)
1.
1,800
2.
Spinning
10,600
3.
Weaving
22,950
4.
Knitting
3,150
5.
Woven Processing
25,800
6.
Knit Processing
7.
Clothing
8.
Jute
9.
Silk, Wool
1,200
Total
98,550
8,550
24,000
500
INVESTMENT IN TEXTILE
30000
25000
INVESTMENT
20000
15000
10000
5000
0
g
sing
es
Proc
Spi
ni
g
in
Weav
ng
tti
Kni
en
ing
ss
ov
W
t
ng
nni
roce
P
hing
Cl
ot
Jute
W ool
,
lk
Si
SEGMENTKni
Gi
INVESTMENT
The Multi-Fibre Agreement (MFA), that had governed the extent of textile trade between
nations since 1962, expired on 1 January 2005. It is expected that, post-MFA, most tariff distortions
would gradually disappear and firms with robust capabilities will gain in the global trade of textile
and apparel. The prize is the $360 bn market which is expected to grow to about $600 bn by the
year 2010 barely five years after the expiry of MFA.
National Textile Policy 2000
Faced with new challenges and opportunities in a changing global trade environment, the
GOI unveiled its National Textile Policy 2000 (NTP 2000) on November 2, 2000. The NTP 2000
aims to improve the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry in order to attain $50 billion per
year in textile and apparel exports by 2010.86 The NTP 2000 opens the countrys apparel sector to
large firms and allows up to 100 percent FDI in the sector without any export obligation.
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To promote modernization of Indian industry, the GOI set up the Export Promotion Capital
Goods (EPCG) scheme, which permits a firm importing new or Secondhand capital goods for
production of articles for export to enter the capital goods at preferential tariffs, provided that
the firm exports at least six times the c.i.f. value of the imported capital goods within 6 years.
Any textile firm planning to modernize its operations had to import at least $4.6 million worth of
equipment to qualify for duty-free treatment under the EPCG scheme.
Export-Import Policy
The GOIs EXIM policy provides for a variety of largely export-related assistance to firms
engaged in the manufacture and trade of textile products. This policy includes fiscal and other trade
and investment incentives contained in various programs
Duty Entitlement Passbook Scheme (DEPS)
DEPS is available to Indian export companies and traders on a pre- and post-export basis.
The pre-export credit requires that the beneficiary firm has exported during the preceding 3-year
period. The post-export credit is a transferable credit that exporters of finished goods can use to
pay or offset customs duties on subsequent imports of any unrestricted products.
The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)
The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) promises abolition of all quota restrictions in
international trade in textiles and clothing by the year 2005. This provides tremendous scope for
export expansion from developing countries.
Guidelines of the revised Textile Centres Infrastructure Development Scheme (TCUDS)
TCIDS Scheme is a part of the drive to improve infrastructure facilities at potential Textile
growth centres and therefore, aims at removing bottlenecks in exports so as to achieve the target of
US$ 50 billion by 2010 as envisaged in the National Textile Policy, 2000.
Under the Scheme funds can be given to Central/ State Government Departments/ Public
Sector Undertakings/ Other Central /State Governments agencies/recognized industrial association
or entrepreneur bodies for development of infrastructure directly benefiting the textile units. The
fund would not be available for individual production units.
Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)
At present, the only scheme through which Government can assist the industry is the
Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) which provides for reimbursing 5% interest on the
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loans/finance raised from designated financial institutions for bench marked projects of
modernisation. IDBI, SIDBI, IFCI have been designed as nodal agencies for large and medium
small scale industry and jute industry respectively. They have co-opted 148 leading commercial
banks/cooperative banks and financial institutions like State Finance Corporations and State
Industrial Development Corporation etc.
Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)
To provide the industry with world-class infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile
units, Government has launched the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) by merging the
Scheme for Apparel Parks for Exports (APE) and Textile Centre Infrastructure Development
Scheme (TCIDS). This scheme is based on Public-Private Partnership (PPP) and envisages
engaging of a professional agency for project execution. The Ministry of Textiles (MOT) would
implement the Scheme through Special Purpose Vehicles (SPVs).
National Textile Corporation Ltd. (NTC)
National Textile Corporation Ltd. (NTC) is the single largest Textile Central Public Sector
Enterprise under Ministry of Textiles managing 52 Textile Mills through its 9 Subsidiary Companies
spread all over India. The headquarters of the Holding Company is at New Delhi. The strength of
the group is around 22000 employees. The annual turnover of the Company in the year 2004-05
was approximately Rs.638 crores having capacity of 11 lakhs Spindles, 1500 Looms producing 450
lakh Kgs of Yarn and 185 lakh Mtrs of cloth annually.
Cotton Corporation Of India Ltd. (CCI)
The Cotton Corporation of India Ltd (CCI), Mumbai, is a profit-making Public Sector
Undertaking under the Ministry of Textiles engaged in commercial trading of cotton. The CCI also
undertakes Minimum Support Price Operation (MSP) on behalf of the Government of India.
The Ministry of Textiles
The Ministry of Textiles is responsible for policy formulation, planning, and development
export promotionand trade regulation in respect of the textile sector. This included all natural and
manmade cellulosic fibres that go into the making of textiles, clothing and handicrafts.
Powerloom development and export promotion council
Powerloom development and export promotion council, set up by the ministry of textiles
government of India. PDEXCIL provide some export assistance as follows
across
the
value-
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Reginal trade blocs play a significant role in the global garment industry with countries
enjoying concessional tariffs by virtue of being members of such blocs/ alliances.
Indian industry would need to be prepared to face the fall out of the post 2005
scenarious in the form of continued barriers for imports.
CONCLUSION:
The Indian textile industry is currently one of the largest and most important sector in the
economy interms of output foreign exchange earnings and employment in India. The Textile
industry has the potential to scale new height in the globalized economy. The textile industry in
India has gone through significant charges in anticipation of increased international competition.
The industry is facing numerous problems and among them the most important once are those of
liquidity for many organized sector units, demand recession and insufficient price realization. The
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long-range problems include the need for sufficient modernisation and restructuring of the entire
industry to cater more effectively to the demands of the domestic and foreign markets for textiles as
per the needs of today and tomorrow.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Text Books:
1. Ruddar Datt, K.P.M. Sundharam, Indian Economy p 658, S.Chand & Company Ltd, New
Delhi ,2006
2. P.J. Divatia, Indian Industries in the 21 st Century p46, Deep & Deep Publications Pvt
Ltd, New Delhi, 2003
4. B.M.P Singh, Indian Economy Today ,p248,Deep & Deep Publications Pvt Ltd, New
Delhi ,2004
Web Sites:
1. http://www.Indianbusiness.nic.in/India-profile/textile.htm
2. http://www.economywatch.com/business-and-economy/textile-Industry.html
3. http://hotdocs.usitc.gov
4. http://www.texprocil.com/annreport/profile-texprocil.doc
5. http://www.aepcindia.com
6. http://www.in.kpmg.com
7. http://pd.cpim.org/2004/10312004-ganguly.html
8. http://www.pdexcil.org/export.htm
9. http://www.giftsnaccessories.com/magazine/Handicrafts/11.htm
10. http://www.iimahd.ernet.in
11. http://icmr.icfai.org/casestudies
12. http://www.equitymaster.com/budget0607/sectors/textile.asp
13. http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/report
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